TRAVEL - Josephine McKenna
Transcription
TRAVEL - Josephine McKenna
TRAVEL FASHION MUSEUMS Museo Gucci Gucci 90 More than nine decades of Gucci evening wear, handbags and suitcases can be viewed at the Gucci Museo in Florence 24 Horizon September 2014 BACK IN STYLE Explore bygone trends and creative highlights with a stroll through the world’s top fashion museums / Text Josephine McKenna David Bowie Is 30 2011 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 60 GUCCI MUSEO Gucci 1921 Gucci Gucci Museo Palazzo della Mercanzia 14 F ashion history has been having a moment in the spotlight, with significant ensembles being put on display in major museums. Last year, London’s Victoria and Albert Museum sold more than 300,000 tickets to the exhibition David Bowie Is, which displayed many of the flamboyant singer’s memorable costumes. Similarly, in 2011 more than 600,000 people lined up at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art to see the retrospective Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. The exhibition was one of the museum’s most popular ever, highlighting fashion’s wide appeal. And around the world, galleries specialising in fashion show their best wares on a permanent basis, offering a look at some of the most elaborate and recognisable outfits ever worn. GUCCI MUSEO FLORENCE Gucci began as a small leather-saddle business in Florence in 1921. Today it is one of the world’s September 2014 Horizon 25 TRAVEL FASHION MUSEUMS The Museum at FIT Impact: 50 Years of the CFDA The Museum at FIT’s Impact: 50 years of the CFDA, was the first exhibition to celebrate the American fashion trade organisation 90 Gucci Museo 2011 Patrizio di Marco Gucci Hilary Swank Naomi Watts Gucci www.guccimuseo.com THE MUSEUM AT FIT Fashion Institute of Technology 50,000 18 2002 London Fashion Alexander McQueen Vivienne Costume Society of America Exposed: A History of Lingerie 70 Juel Park 1940 Dance & Fashion 100 www.fitnyc.edu/museum PALAIS GALLIERA Palais Galliera Galliera Marie Brignole-Sale 7,000 30 Dior Chanel Saint Laurent 26 Horizon September 2014 leading luxury brands and Gucci Museo celebrates its more than nine decades of design, featuring day and evening wear, and bags, which fill three floors of the 14th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia. “Our aim has been to create a destination experience where people can appreciate our history and understand how innovative Gucci is today,” said Patrizio di Marco, Chief Executive at Gucci, in 2011 when the museum opened. The museum’s permanent collection includes gowns worn by Hilary Swank and Naomi Watts, as well as photos and video of stars such as Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor sporting the brand. www.guccimuseo.com IMAGES. Dresses: Fairchild Photo Service/Condé Nast/Corbis/IC Westwood IMAGES. Snow boot: Zou Zheng – Xinhua Press/Corbis/IC. Palais Galliera: Getty Images Palais Galliera 7,000 The Palais Galliera in Paris offers temporary exhibitions from its more than 7,000-piece archive ACCESSORY SPECIALISTS SIMONE HANDBAG MUSEUM SEOUL Simone 300 1920 Cartier Schiaparelli BATA SHOE MUSEUM TORONTO Sonja Bata Bata Paco Rabanne 13,000 1968 The Simone Handbag Museum has a striking collection of about 300 handbags. Visitors can see a jewelled Cartier purse from the 1920s, a Schiaparelli bag owned by the Duchess of Windsor and Paco Rabanne’s 1968 chainmail handbag inspired by butchers’ metal aprons. www.simonehandbagmuseum.co.kr Sonja Bata, an architect and avid world traveller, had such an incredible collection of shoes that it formed the basis for the Bata Shoe Museum. Its 13,000 exhibits range from Chinese bound-foot shoes and ancient Egyptian sandals to old snow boots. www.batashoemuseum.com September 2014 Horizon 27 TRAVEL FASHION MUSEUMS 1890 Paola Mode Museum Delvaux A corded silk wedding dress dating from 1890 (right) at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum Queen Paola of Belgium (below) visits the Mode Museum’s exhibition on Belgian luxury brand Delvaux Paris Grace Kelly 11 2 1947-1957 Dior Fashion in France, Bonbon www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr 17 1930 Dresses 1775-2014 20 Wedding 2015 3 15 Gwen Stefani www.vam.ac.uk MODE MUSEUM MoMu 2002 Mode Museum 25,000 MoMu 9 25 MoMu Now 30 Dries Van Noten 2015 2 13 MoMu www.momu.be MUSEO DEL TRAJE Museo del Traje 16 10 2,500 28 Horizon September 2014 THE MUSEUM AT FIT NEW YORK IMAGES. Beige dress: Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Fashion show: Neri Fadigati. Queen Paola: Mark Renders – Getty Images. The museum at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology is the city’s only facility dedicated solely to fashion exhibitions. Inside are 50,000 garments and accessories, the oldest of which date back to the 18th century. Through exhibitions, publications and public programmes, the museum aims to help the public learn about fashion. One of its most popular shows was London Fashion, which in 2002 showcased the best of British style with works by designer Alexander McQueen, as well as Vivienne Westwood, who strongly influenced punk and new-wave fashion. Hugely popular with the public, the show also scored the museum an award from the Costume Society of America. Among its current exhibitions is Exposed: A History of Lingerie, which features more than 70 items and includes a 1940s nightgown by Juel Park, a Hollywood designer whose clients included Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor. Meanwhile, Dance & Fashion explores the relationship between the two art forms with more than 100 pieces on show. www.fitnyc.edu/museum 1955 Sala Bianca Pitti Palace A 1955 fashion show at the Sala Bianca Pitti Palace in Florence was revisited by the Victoria and Albert Museum STYLE FILES New Zealand Fashion Museum PALAIS GALLIERA PARIS Housed in the Palais Galliera – once the home of Marie Brignole-Sale, the Duchess of Galliera – this museum’s exhibitions are rotating displays of stunning pieces taken from its archive. In the vaults are more than 7,000 items from 30 Paris couture houses including Dior, Chanel and Saint Laurent Paris. The New Zealand Fashion Museum is an online museum and charitable trust that shares stories and images related to the country’s fashion. The public is invited to upload photos to the archive, with the online exhibits ranging from historical swimwear to contemporary evening gowns. www.nzfashionmuseum.org.nz September 2014 Horizon 29 TRAVEL 20 Paco Rabanne Cristóbal Balenciaga Manuel Pertegaz www.museodeltraje.mcu.es THE COSTUME INSTITUTE Costume Institute 1937 35,000 15 Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years PUNK: Chaos to Couture 2011 Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty www.metmuseum.org 30 Horizon September 2014 The museum also features outfits from Princess Grace of Monaco and the Duchess of Windsor. Until 2 November, visitors can see Fashion in France, 1947-1957. The exhibition pays tribute to this exciting time, when Dior launched his brand’s first collection, ushering in a new era in fashion. Look out for his original Bonbon dress. www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON The fashion collection at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum spans four centuries and includes rare 17th-century gowns, 1930s evening wear and couture from the late-20th century. Romantics won’t want to miss Wedding Dresses 1775-2014. Running until 15 March, 2015, the exhibition presents examples of this special-occasion attire curated from the museum’s own collection, IMAGES. Mode Museum: Boy Kortekaas. Punk clothing: Birana E. Heard – Corbis/IC FASHION MUSEUMS Paradise Mode Museum The Birds of 2013 1970 The Birds of Paradise exhibition at Mode Museum in Antwerp (far left) celebrates the application of plumes and feathers in fashion The fashion of the 1970s punk movement was the focus for an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2013 (left) Noten is scheduled to begin on 13 February, 2015, in which he offers insight into his creative processes. www.momu.be THE MUSEUM AT FIT MUSEO DEL TRAJE MADRID along with loans from designers and individuals. On display, for example, is the silvery outfit worn by Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, when she married Prince Charles, and the wedding dress with a splash of hot pink worn by pop singer Gwen Stefani. www.vam.ac.uk MODE MUSEUM ANTWERP Nicknamed MoMu, the dynamic Mode Museum in Antwerp opened in 2002. Starting on 25 September, the museum showcases MoMu Now, an exhibition of newly added items to its 25,000-piece collection. While other fashion museums stress historic garments, MoMu focuses on contemporary Belgian designers. Belgian fashion has evolved dramatically in the past 30 years, with Dries Van Noten as one of its biggest names. An exhibition put together by Van NOW SHOWING Madrid’s costume museum, the Museo del Traje, presents the history of Spanish traditional dress from as far back as the 16th century. One of Madrid’s lesser-known attractions, the museum is a 10-minute drive or a short metro ride from the centre of the city. Its collection of historic clothing includes 2,500 pieces, covering classic black mantillas and delicately embroidered vests from Spain’s past. Also on display are more modern works, made by Spanish fashion greats of the 20th century such as Paco Rabanne, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Manuel Pertegaz. museodeltraje.mcu.es THE COSTUME INSTITUTE NEW YORK Founded in 1937, the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art has more than 35,000 pieces dating from the 15th century. Previous exhibitions have run the gamut from Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years to PUNK: Chaos to Couture – themes that manage to get the public talking and queuing up outside. The 2011 exhibition Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, staged shortly after the designer’s death, saw the museum receive record-breaking numbers of visitors on its final two days. This retrospective was so popular that it will also be shown at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London next year. www.metmuseum.org Exposed: A History of Lingerie 2014 11 15 Until 15 November, 2014 Dance & Fashion 2014 9 13 2015 1 3 13 September, 20143 January, 2015 PALAIS GALLIERA Fashion in France, 1947-1957 2014 11 2 Until 2 November, 2014 VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM Wedding Dresses 1775-2014 2015 3 15 Until 15 March, 2015 MODE MUSEUM MoMu Now 2014 9 25 2015 1 4 25 September, 20144 January, 2015 September 2014 Horizon 31