OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Transcription

OSCAR DE LA RENTA
CURRICULUM GUIDE
GRADES 9 -12
OSCAR
DE LA
RENTA
OCT. 3, 2015 - DEC. 31, 2015
WITH SUPPORT FROM
SCAD: The University for Creative Careers
The Savannah College of Art and Design is a private,
nonprofit, accredited university conferring bachelor’s
and master’s degrees at distinctive locations to
prepare talented students for professional careers.
SCAD offers degrees in more than 40 majors, as well
as minors in more than 60 disciplines. With 32,000
alumni worldwide, SCAD demonstrates an exceptional
education and unparalleled career preparation.
At locations in Savannah and Atlanta, Georgia; in
Hong Kong; in Lacoste, France; and online through
SCAD eLearning, the diverse student body consists
of more than 12,000 students, from across the United
States and over 100 countries. SCAD’s innovative
curriculum is enhanced by advanced, professionallevel technology, equipment and learning resources.
Curricular collaborations with companies and
organizations including Google and the National
Council of Architectural Registration Boards (NCARB)
affirm the professional currency SCAD champions in
its degree programs.
The university, students, faculty and alumni have
garnered acclaim from respected organizations and
publications worldwide including four consecutive
years of No. 1 rankings for the undergraduate
interior design program by DesignIntelligence and,
in 2015, ranking among the top ten universities in
the Americas and Europe by Red Dot, and the No. 1
graduate fashion program in the U.S. as determined
by Business of Fashion.
Table of Contents
About SCAD FASH
1
About the Designers
2
About the Exhibition
4
About the Curriculum Guide
7
9th through 12th Grade
Exercise 1 – Connecting
8
Exercise 2 – Responding
10
Exercise 3 – Creating
12
Exercise 4 – Presenting
14
Glossary of Terms
16
Citations
17
Related SCAD Programs of Study
18
Sketches and Notes
21
Museum Map
24
Current and Upcoming Exhibitions
25
2
About SCAD FASH
SCAD FASH celebrates fashion as a universal language,
that enliven and inspire SCAD students and the greater
garments as important conduits of identity, and film as
community. Every program is designed to engage and
an immersive and memorable medium. Situated within the
appeal to visitors with varied backgrounds and interests,
SCAD Atlanta campus at 1600 Peachtree St., the museum
from textiles and jewelry to photography and film.
focuses on the future of fashion design, connecting
conceptual to historical principles of dress — whether
Within nearly 10,000 square feet of elegant and
ceremonial, celebratory or casual — and welcomes visitors
adaptable exhibition space, SCAD FASH brings a distinct
of all ages to engage with dynamic exhibitions, captivating
schedule of fashion-focused exhibitions and compelling
films and educationally enriching events.
films to the heart of Midtown Atlanta. In addition to
gallery talks, lectures, film screenings and exclusive
Fortified by the university’s strong global presence and
opportunities for museum members, SCAD FASH is
worldwide connections to renowned contemporary
an international stage for student and alumni design
fashion designers, filmmakers and creative professionals,
showcases, fashion shows and exhibitions.
SCAD FASH is an integral part of the SCAD educational
experience.
Throughout the year at each of its locations around
the world, SCAD hosts a spectacular lineup of thought-
Like the award-winning SCAD Museum of Art, SCAD
provoking, star-studded events that place art and design
FASH serves as a teaching museum and creative resource
education front and center. SCAD FASH continues this
for students of all ages and a wellspring of inspiration
rich tradition by affording students and professors across
for visitors. Through programming that engages the
all disciplines the opportunity to celebrate works of
university’s broad array of academic disciplines —
wearable art and remarkable filmmaking, and to interact
encompassing more than 40 majors and 60 minors —
with the renowned and emerging professionals who
SCAD FASH offers a diverse, year-round program of
create them.
exhibitions, films, installations, performances and events
Oscar de la Renta
Custom velvet and duchesse satin evening dress, worn to the “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” Metropolitan Museum of Art
Costume Institute Gala, May 2014. Loan: Sarah Jessica Parker, New York City
1
Oscar de la Renta
About
the Designers
Oscar de la Renta’s story begins on July 22, 1932, in the
Dominican Republic, where he grew up surrounded by his six
older sisters, mother and grandmother. De la Renta’s mother,
María Antonia, was an ardent supporter of her son’s artistic
talents and encouraged him to pursue his desire to study
painting in Spain. At the age of 18, he moved to Madrid to
attend the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando.
As a student, de la Renta immersed himself in the culture of
Spain and, to make extra money, took up fashion sketching.
His talent and appreciation for fashion soon found him
working for one of the greatest couturiers of all time,
Cristóbal Balenciaga. With his sights set on Paris, de la Renta
requested a transfer to the designer’s Parisian salon, but was
denied. He decided to make the move on his own.
Once in Paris, de la Renta found employment at Lanvin with
Spanish designer Antonio del Castillo, whose impeccably
made garments adorned the city’s high-society ladies. After
two years under Castillo’s tutelage, de la Renta decided to
leave Europe altogether. In 1963, he arrived in New York,
where the fashion industry was heavily influenced by
Parisian design, and was quickly hired by Elizabeth Arden.
2
Peter Copping
By 1965, de la Renta had his own label and, in 1967, his
Raised in Oxford, England, Peter Copping moved to London
collection “The Road of Spices” earned him his first Coty
at the age of 18 to study fashion design at Central Saint
Award, the prestigious recognition conferred upon designers
Martins. Next, he received his graduate degree from the
for their significant contribution to fashion. This was only
Royal College of Art, during which time Copping was
the beginning of de la Renta’s ascent as a designer. His
invited to work for Christian Lacroix in Paris, his first studio
remarkable legacy transcends even the fashion empire he
experience in high fashion. Copping then accepted a position
built through the relationships he made. Many of the dresses
at Sonia Rykiel, which would prepare him for a 12-year tenure
included in this exhibition were lent by de la Renta’s friends
at Louis Vuitton, where he oversaw the women’s ready-to-
and loyal clientele.
wear collection as studio director under Marc Jacobs.
Beyond his work as chairman of Oscar de la Renta LLC, he
In 2009, Copping joined Nina Ricci as artistic director. There,
was a tireless patron of the arts. De la Renta served on the
he spent five years finessing the house’s legacy of supreme
Boards of Trustees for Carnegie Hall, the Metropolitan Opera
femininity and romance. For his work at Nina Ricci, Copping
Guild, New Yorkers for Children and the Americas Society.
received a Fashion Group International Fashion Star award
He was also a dual citizen of the U.S. and the Dominican
in 2014.
Republic, where he served as ambassador-at-large.
In October of 2014, Copping was appointed creative director
of Oscar de la Renta. Handpicked by de la Renta before
his passing, Copping is responsible for setting the design
direction across all product categories in the New Yorkbased company, with Fall 2015 marking his first collection
for Oscar de la Renta.
3
About the Exhibition
SCAD FASH proudly presents “Oscar de la Renta” as the
Copping’s Fall 2015 show are incorporated, highlighting
new museum’s inaugural exhibition. “Oscar de la Renta”
the future direction of the fashion house.
celebrates the illustrious life and designs of the storied
couturier whose work set the standard for timeless
The exhibition also includes “Ovation for Oscar,” a
elegance. It also introduces the work of Peter Copping,
SCAD-commissioned short subject documentary that
the talented designer personally selected by Oscar de
premiered at the Marché du Film at the Cannes Film
la Renta to lead the iconic brand forward.
Festival in May 2015. Created by SCAD alumni and
students, the film provides an intimate account of the
This momentous exhibition features more than 60
making of a major museum exhibition honoring the
garments, many designed exclusively for de la Renta’s
designer, artist and cultural icon.
closest friends and family. Known as “the sultan of
chic,” de la Renta dressed such Hollywood A-listers as
“Oscar de la Renta” is curated by Laurie Ann Farrell,
Oprah Winfrey, Nicole Kidman, Sarah Jessica Parker and
executive director of SCAD museums and exhibitions.
Taylor Swift, as well as former First Lady Laura Bush.
Additionally, a stunning selection of new looks from
Oscar de la Renta
Embroidered cotton wedding gown, 2010. Loan: Miranda Brooks, New York City
4
5
6
About the Curriculum Guide
SCAD curriculum guides provide exercises based
curriculum guide for the exhibition Divine Comedy:
on National Core Arts Standards and are designed
Heaven, Purgatory and Hell Revisited By Contemporary
to support educators, both within the museum’s
African Artists with first place in the education category.
exhibition spaces and in the classroom. The guides
create engaging learning experiences, enhancing
The following learning exercises have been devised
understanding of art through investigations that reveal
to capture Oscar de la Renta’s approach to fashion
relevant personal, historical and cultural connections,
and the essence of his designs, with emphasis on the
while promoting skill sets necessary for today’s
influence of surrounding cultures and attention to the
innovative careers.
wearer’s sense of individuality. De la Renta’s work is
further illuminated by the addition of pieces by new
Recognizing the guides’ high standard of quality,
creative director Peter Copping, providing students
the American Alliance of Museums’ 2014 Museum
with opportunities to investigate the coexisting creative
Publications Design Competition honored the SCAD
forces of inspiring influences and unique responses.
Oscar de la Renta for Balmain Haute Couture
Sable collared coat, 2001. Loan: Anna Wintour, New York City
7
1 CONNECTING:
Relate artistic ideas and works with societal, cultural
and historical context to deepen understanding.
“ I think that, regardless of your political inclination, if the first lady of your country
asks you to do something, you don’t say no.” 1
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta’s fashion transcended party lines. He built his career on the philosophy that all women want to be
beautiful, and he brought out the singular beauty and character of each woman he designed for. As American first ladies
took on a more pronounced role in the public eye in the 20th century, de la Renta set out to help define them as style
icons with his unmistakable designs. Creating a cultural icon requires a keen sense of the characteristics that define a
specific moment in history. De la Renta’s collections embodied American tastes and attitudes through the decades,
while his designs for first ladies were meant to reflect their distinct personalities, values and roles.
The timeline to the right shows all of the first ladies who wore Oscar de la Renta designs during their time in the White
House. Choose one or two of the first ladies and, in the space provided below, list one or two important events that
defined the culture of that time. Can you describe how the dresses in the exhibition might reflect the culture of the
time that they were created and worn?
8
National Core Arts Anchor Standard 11.1, Visual Arts, High School
Jackie Kennedy
Pat Nixon
Betty Ford
Rosalynn Carter
Nancy Reagan
Barbara Bush
“In 1963, fashion was very different. There are many
parallels as to what happened in American fashion
and what happened for women in those years.” 2
— Oscar de la Renta
Exercise 1
Lady Bird Johnson
1961-1963
1963-1969
1969-1974
“It’s unbelievably extraordinary to remember
that when I came to New York, it was a time
when women couldn’t wear a pair of pants to a
restaurant.” 3
— Oscar de la Renta
1974-1977
1977-1981
1981-1989
“Oscar was a fashion legend but he was also my
friend for nearly 50 years. I admired him greatly as
a kind, gracious individual with a generous spirit
who brought beauty and elegance to everything
he touched.” 4
— Nancy Reagan
1989-1993
“Oscar has really treated first ladies such as
myself, Nancy Reagan and Laura Bush with such
great support.” 5
— Hillary Clinton
Hillary Clinton
Laura Bush
Michelle Obama
1993-2001
2001-2009
“Oscar has been a dear friend to me, and many
other first ladies. His designs are truly beautiful
and exemplify American style.” 6
— Laura Bush
2009-present
9
2 RESPONDING:
Interpret intent and meaning in an artistic work.
While Oscar de la Renta is recognized as an iconic American designer,
his fashion often reflected the influences of other cultures. De la
Renta was born in the Dominican Republic, but traveled to Spain at
the age of 18 to study formally at the Real Academia de Bellas Artes
de San Fernando. He recognized the enduring influence of Spanish
culture on his work:
“I fell madly for Spain, its people, its landscape and life
in Madrid. The sights, sounds and drama of Spanish
culture — bullfights, flamenco and the most festive
celebrations such as the traditional ferias of Seville
and fallas of Valencia — were burned forever in my
imagination, defining my own aesthetic.”7
Oscar de la Renta
Independently research the culture of Spain. What are some of the
more noteworthy cultural figures or features that you discover? Link
these observations to your impressions of the Oscar de la Renta
exhibition and describe how Spanish culture influenced the collection.
10
National Core Arts Anchor Standard 8.1, Visual Arts, High School
Create and sketch an original design of Spanish influences to any item of clothing or accessory.
Add notation describing how your design, colors and materials reflect Spanish culture.
sketches and notes
Exercise 2
Oscar de la Renta
Embroidered and sequined evening gown. Spring 2010, ready-to-wear. Worn to the 2010 “American Woman: Fashioning a National
Identity,” Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala. Loan: Diana Taylor, New York City
11
3 CREATING:
Generate and conceptualize artistic ideas and work.
“ Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being
yourself.” 8
Oscar de la Renta
Imagine creating a fashion collection that is a distillation of your culture, time in history and one particular individual —
either yourself, a friend or a public figure you admire. Consider the events, images and activities that define our society.
Think about the characteristics that make your chosen individual one of a kind. Use the areas below to brainstorm ideas
to incorporate into your designs.
culture
12
National Core Arts Anchor Standard 1.2, Visual Arts, High School
individual
Create sketches of one or more items for your collections, choosing any articles of clothing or accessories. Notate your
sketches with information about colors, materials and inspirations.
sketches and notes
Exercise 3
13
4 PRESENTING:
Develop and refine artistic techniques and work for presentation.
“It’s beautiful to see everything together en masse .…
As much as I knew it in the past, I’m still discovering
the house of Oscar de la Renta. But just to see all of
this is an incredible experience — it shows me what
endless possibilities there are.” 9
Peter Copping
In the quote above, Peter Copping responds to seeing the SCAD Museum
of Art retrospective of Oscar de la Renta’s work by remarking on the
“endless possibilities” for inspiration.
How does the experience of seeing items grouped together affect
understanding? This question is one of the lines of inquiry explored by
curators as they design exhibitions.
Consider the museum exhibitions you have seen, and the varieties of art
and artifacts contained within them. Were they grouped by medium,
historical periods or another theme?
Reflect on your experiences as a museum visitor and then imagine the
role of curator, designing an exhibition that will shape the experience of a
visitor. As a curator, what would you choose to exhibit and how?
14
National Core Arts Anchor Standard 5.1, Visual Arts, High School
In the space provided, sketch or describe the type of works you would choose to include in an exhibition. Specifically
address the following question: How does the experience of seeing these items grouped together affect understanding?
sketches and notes
Exercise 4
Oscar de la Renta by Peter Copping
Black lightweight radzimir and peridot duchessina cocktail dress, Fall 2015
Courtesy of Oscar de la Renta
15
Glossary of Terms:
aesthetic n. A set of principles underlying and guiding
the work of a particular artist or artistic movement
distillation n. The extraction of the essential meaning
or most important aspects of something
en masse adv. In a group; all together
fallas n. In Valencia, a spring carnival featuring
fireworks and large papier-mâché structures, ending
with bonfires
ferias n. In Seville, a spring festival featuring parades,
dancing, bullfights and traditional Spanish dress
flamenco n. A performing art originating in southern
Spain and existing in three forms: song, dance and
guitar music
icon n. An important and enduring symbol
16
Citations:
1
Koski, L., Born, P., Foley, B., & Friedman, A. (2014,
6
CBS News (2013, July 8). Hillary Clinton pantsuit
October 20). Oscar de la Renta: an American master.
displayed in Arkansas museum. Retrieved from http://
Retrieved from http://wwd.com/fashion-news/
www.cbsnews.com/news/hillary-clinton-pantsuit-
designer-luxury/oscar-de-la-renta-dies-7992384/
displayed-in-arkansas-museum/
2
Norwich, W. (2013, February 10). Oscar de la Renta
7
Bearman, E. [OscarPRGirl]. (2014, July 9). In 1950
on taking in Galliano, the women he’s known and
at the age of eighteen I arrived in Spain to study at
loved, and why he once tried to hit Cecil Beaton.
the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando in
Retrieved from http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/02/
Madrid. I fell madly for Spain, its people, its landscape
oscar-de-la-renta-william-norwich-interview.html
and life in Madrid. The sights [Tumblr post]. Retrieved
from http://oscarprgirl.tumblr.com/post/91945562139/
3
Norwich, W. (2013, February 10). Oscar de la Renta
in-1950-at-age-eighteen-i-arrived-in-spain-to
on taking in Galliano, the women he’s known and
loved, and why he once tried to hit Cecil Beaton.
8
Retrieved from http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/02/
being Oscar. Retrieved from http://www.vanityfair.
oscar-de-la-renta-william-norwich-interview.html
com/news/2009/09/out-to-lunch-de-la-renta200909
4
Los Angeles Daily News (2014, October 21). Nancy
9
Heilpern, J. (2009, September). The importance of
Bowles, Hamish (2015, May 20). How Peter Copping
Reagan remembers designer Oscar de la Renta as ‘a
discovered the real Oscar de la Renta. Retrieved from
kind, gracious individual.’ Retrieved from http://www.
http://www.vogue.com/13257750/peter-copping-
dailynews.com/obituaries/20141021/nancy-reagan-
oscar-de-la-renta/
remembers-designer-oscar-de-la-renta-as-a-kindgracious-individual/1
5
Adams, R. (2013, July 9). Hillary Clinton honors Oscar
de la Renta at exhibition opening reception. Retrieved
from http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/07/09/
hillary-clinton-oscar-de-renta_n_3566560.html
17
Related SCAD Programs of Study
Fashion
F R O M C O U T U R E TO C A S UA L , M A S S M A R K E T
Oscar de la Renta: His
TO M EN SWE AR , FA S H IO N D E S I G N ERS C R E ATE
Legendary World of Style
EXHILARATING, WEARABLE WORKS OF ART THAT
Hardcover – September 15,
LAUNCH INTERNATIONAL TRENDS, SHAPE CULTURAL
2015
MOMENTS AND HELP INDIVIDUALS EXPRESS THEIR
by André Leon Talley (Author),
BEST, TRUEST SELVES.
Adam Kuehl (Photographer),
Paula Wallace (Preface), Anna
SCAD fashion students prepare to lead in the ever-
Wintour (Foreword), Mercedes
evolving and globally competitive fashion industry
T. Bass (Contributor)
through a rigorous curriculum anchored by innovative
design, creative thinking and state-of-the-art technology.
A sumptuous monograph
Through recurring interactions between leading fashion
tracing the life and legacy of fashion luminary Oscar
authorities and students, the program is strongly
de la Renta. In this intimate volume, longtime editor
connected to the professional realm.
and friend André Leon Talley recounts de la Renta’s
journey through nearly 70 iconic dresses accompanied
Under the guidance of experienced faculty and with
by fascinating stories of the exquisite craftsmanship and
inspiration from visiting mentors, students explore
the legendary friends that brought each gown to life.
fashion from the conceptual to the commercial, applying
technical dexterity with creative vision to develop original
fashion collections. During their course of study, students
experiment in 2-D and 3-D formats, conduct research and
analysis and develop a personal aesthetic. Studio courses
culminate in the creation of physical samples that become
important career-making evidence in the graduates’
portfolios. The university’s advanced technology prepares
students for the dynamic world of digital fashion design,
and students benefit from the opportunity to pursue
CFDA+ and Adobe certifications.
For seven consecutive years, SCAD students have
been honored as Young Menswear Association Fashion
Scholarship Fund scholars. Over the past two years,
SCAD has celebrated more YMA scholars than any other
university. In addition to winning valuable scholarships,
these outstanding students have gone on to intern or
work for companies such as Oscar de la Renta, Polo Ralph
Lauren, Alexander Wang and Saks Fifth Avenue.
18
Film and Television
FILMMAKING IS THE ART OF STORYTELLING WITH
OVATION FOR OSCAR
PICTURES, SOUND, MUSIC AND MOVEMENT — STORIES
21 minutes
THAT CAPTURE HEARTS, CHANGE MINDS AND AWAKEN
Focusing on the first posthumous
IMAGINATIONS.
museum tribute to the legendary
fashion designer, this documentary
From blockbusters and documentaries to sitcoms and
chronicles the creation of the
commercials, professionals in this sector require an
exhibition, “Oscar de la Renta: His
exhaustive and multifaceted knowledge of the filmmaking
Legendary World of Style.” The
process and the ability to communicate with others across
film is an intimate look behind the
the spectrum of production. At SCAD, students become
scenes, revealing the demanding,
conversant in all areas of film and television, discovering the
deadline-oriented work of fashion
roles that best suit their talents and interests. Savannah Film
photographers, white-gloved art handlers and discerning
Studios, the newest addition to the university’s digital media
curators as they research, assess, mount and produce
and entertainment facilities, is designed for professional-
a major museum exhibition honoring the late designer,
level film production. The expansive 22,000-square-foot
artist and cultural icon.
facility is outfitted with three sound stages, green rooms,
lighting grids, postproduction suites, screening rooms and
scad.edu/ovation-for-oscar
production offices.
SCAD student films have been showcased at the Sundance
Film Festival, the Cannes International Film Festival, the
Los Angeles Film Festival, the New York International
Independent Film and Video Festival, and many other
venues and events.
SCAD students and alumni have also won Student
Emmys, Student Academy Awards and the ICG Emerging
Cinematographer Award. SCAD students and graduates win
these awards, in part, because they have the opportunity
to explore every area of filmmaking, pinpointing their
interests and capitalizing on their individual strengths to
build a tailored, focused degree. Graduate students perfect
their craft through a final project or original thesis work
— up to and including directing their own film. Students
showcase their talents through short and full-length films,
while investigating creative visual stories in animation,
fashion, music, documentary and performing arts. Their
cinematic collections feature excellence and the crucial tool
of versatility.
19
20
sketches and notes
Top Left:
Oscar de la Renta
Custom duchesse satin cocktail dress, 2005. Worn for the
Lovely Perfume campaign. Loan: Sarah Jessica Parker, New
York City
Bottom Left:
Oscar de la Renta
Cashmere and satin day dress, 1965-66. SCAD Museum of Art,
gift of Cornelia Guest in honor of her mother, C.Z. Guest
Top Right:
Oscar de la Renta for Balmain Haute Couture
Silk velvet evening gown with diamante straps. Fall 2000.
Loan: Anonymous
Bottom Right:
Oscar de la Renta
Embroidered cashmere coat and dress, worn by First Lady
Laura Bush to the 2005 Presidential Inauguration. Loan: George
W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum, Dallas, Texas
21
22
sketches and notes
Oscar de la Renta
Silk faille jacket and skirt with appliqued bows, worn to the “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations” Metropolitan
Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala, May 2012. Loan: Lauren Santo Domingo, New York City
23
Museum Map
24
Current and Upcoming Exhibitions
S
Floresco • John Bisbee
May 16 – Jan. 3, 2016
S
Imprint • Naimar Ramírez
July 10, 2015 – Nov. 8, 2015
S
Irons for the Ages, Flowers for the Day • Li Hongbo
July 30. 2015 – Jan. 24, 2016
S
The Making of Dakota Jackson • Dakota Jackson
Sept. 25. 2015 – Jan. 18, 2016
S
A Fashionable Mind: Photographs by Jonathan Becker • Jonathan Becker
Sept. 26. 2015 – Jan. 24, 2016
S
Other Voices, Other Cities • Sue Williamson
Oct. 8, 2015 – Jan. 30, 2016
S
As Far as I Know • Manjunath Kamath
Oct. 8, 2015 – Jan. 30, 2016
S
Active Anesthesia • Shin Il Kim
Oct. 8, 2015 – Jan. 30, 2016
S
History, Labor, Life: The Prints of Jacob Lawrence • Jacob Lawrence
Oct. 14, 2015 – Jan. 25, 2016
S SCAD, Savannah, GA.
A SCAD, Atlanta, GA.
1600 Peachtree St.
Atlanta, GA 30309
404.253.3132
scadfash.org