PEARLS Treasures of the sea

PEARLS
Treasures of the sea
TREASURES OF THE SEA
First made respectable by legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel, pearls have
been objects of desire for women and the world of fashion for decades. Even if they
established themselves as classics long ago, pearls remain eternally young and are
subject to continuous reinterpretation.
On the following pages, we would like to invite you to discover the wonderful world
of pearls. The enormous variety of pearls created by Nature cannot be shown in
its entirety in this brochure. We have therefore decided to present to you the most
important types of pearls available in the trade today.
Plunge into the fascinating underwater world of pearls and, together with Bucherer,
discover some of the ocean’s most beautiful treasures.
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Objects of desire
The shimmering interplay of colors
and the velvety sheen typical of pearls
never cease to fascinate
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CONTENTS
Mythical origins and complex culture
Varieties of pearls
South Sea pearls
Golden pearls
Pearls from Tahiti and Fiji
Akoya pearls
Freshwater pearls
Quality criteria
Determining the value of pearls
Pearl certification
Pearl farming sites
Your guarantee from Bucherer
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MYTHICAL ORIGINS
AND COMPLEX CULTURE
For thousands of years pearls have been a symbol of love, happiness and prosperity.
Their once unexplained origins only served to make them more mysterious and
desirable. The provenance of these rare treasures from the ocean was steeped in myth
and legend.
The mother of all pearls is the mussel or, in some cases, rare conches. If these highly
sensitive creatures are disturbed – by another animal for instance – it can lead, in rare
cases, to the oyster forming a pearl. Once this natural phenomenon had been discovered, attempts were made to initiate the process by deliberately irritating the mussel. And it was approximately 100 years ago that farmers first succeeded in growing
pearls : cultured pearls, as they were known.
Today, pearls are cultivated in regions close to the equator on so-called pearl farms.
Mussels are kept in their natural habitat, in seawater just off-shore. Since they
are highly sensitive creatures and react to the slightest change in their environment,
protection of their habitat is a top priority for any pearl farmer.
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In many places, this has resulted in small nature reserves that not only serve pearl
cultivation but also help to preserve the environment and the diversity of species.
According to the internationally recognized guidelines of the CIBJO (Confédération
Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie, des Diamants, Perles et Pierres)
all pearls occurring in Nature with human assistance are termed cultured pearls. In
the interest of readability, the term “pearl” used in several places in this brochure should
be taken as synonymous with cultured pearl. The pearls described here are, without
exception, cultured pearls sourced from pearl farms.
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VARIETIES OF PEARLS
A NATURAL WEALTH OF COLOR
The color of a pearl is determined by the species of mussel. Silvery-gray to black or
also dark gray and green Tahiti pearls come from French Polynesia.
South Sea pearls, cultivated in Indonesia, Australia and in the Philippines, vary from
brilliant white and cream-colored all the way through to intensive golden tones.
The colors of freshwater pearls range from white through pink to an intensive
purple.
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SOUTH SEA PEARLS
THE LARGEST PEARLS OF THEM ALL
South Sea cultured pearls are widely considered to be the queens of all pearls. Th ey
are large, rare and breathtakingly beautiful, attaining a diameter of up to 20 mm, and,
in some rare cases, even more.
Pale South Sea cultured pearls are produced by Pinctada maxima, one of the biggest
known varieties of oyster. This tropical mussel, which has a diameter of up to 25 cm and
weighs up to 5 kg, is the source of correspondingly valuable cultured pearls. Th ese
rare gems have a soft, velvety luster that gives them a very delicate overall appearance.
Pearls grown in the Pinctada maxima oyster range in color from silvery white or cream
to golden. They are cultivated on the coasts of the Indian and Pacifi c Oceans.
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GOLDEN PEARLS
THE NEW GOLD
By selectively isolating or crossing different species of oyster, pearl cultivators
constantly aim to breed pearls in new and different colors.
Gold-colored pearls from the South Seas, for instance, have been on the market
since the late 1970s. Until recently these pearls from the Philippines, which range in
color from a very intensive gold to pale orange-tinted shades, were mainly traded
in Asia. There, in the past ten years, they have gone from strength to strength and,
next to white South Sea pearls and the beautiful black varieties from Tahiti, have a
fi xed place in the standard pearl collection of any self-respecting lady.
The Vanilla Overtone Golden Pearls now available from Bucherer are the result of
many years of working to isolate a subspecies of the gold-lipped Pinctada maxima from
other species. The pearls tend to be a slightly paler gold in color and are therefore
perfectly suited to European skins, which are likely to have far less long-term exposure
to the sun. To date, only very few farmers in southern Indonesia have succeeded in
breeding pearls in this rare color tone.
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PEARLS FROM TAHITI AND FIJI
DARK BEAUTIES
Tahitian cultured pearls are known as dark South Sea cultured pearls and are
cultivated exclusively in the turquoise-colored lagoons and atolls that encircle French
Polynesia. These rare pearls, which have a diameter of 8 to 16 mm (even larger
in some rare cases), are produced by the black-lipped Pinctada margaritifera oyster.
Apart from their size, the mysterious colors and tones are among the most enchanting
charac teristic of Tahitian pearls. Th is iridescent play of colors ranges from pale,
silvery gray through to dark green, luxurious anthracite and jet black.
INTENSIVE COLORS THAT MIRROR NATURE
Fijian pearls are likewise the product of the black-lipped oyster and thrive in the
completely unspoilt waters around the island of Vanua Levu to the north of Fiji. Farmed
only in small numbers, Fijian cultured pearls come in shimmering nuances of
natural pistachio-green and other pastel tones that seem to reflect the lush vegetation
of this South Sea paradise.
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AKOYA PEARLS
THE MOTHER OF ALL CULTURED PEARLS
Just over 100 years ago, akoya-gai, as the Japanese call the Pinctada martensii oyster,
was the source of the fi rst cultured pearls of them all.
The akoya pearl stands out head and shoulders above all other cultured pearls when
it comes to the most fascinating and highly valued quality criterion of them all :
luster. Th is explains why they have been so highly sought aft er on the world's markets
ever since they fi rst appeared in 1921. It is also considered to be the most classic and
feminine type of pearl.
Today, akoya pearls are available in sizes from approximately 6 to 10 mm in diameter.
Strings of pearls averaging 9.5 to 10 mm in good quality are more of a rarity. Th e best
of all akoya cultured pearls, which also satisfy Bucherer's exacting demands, still come
from Japan.
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FRESHWATER PEARLS
FREEDOM OF FORM AND COLOR
The myriad shapes and colors, combined with the attractive prices of cumingii cultured
pearls, have enabled them to assume a new, young and feminine image.
Unlike akoya and South Sea cultured pearls grown in salt water, which always have a
mother-of-pearl core, freshwater pearls are as a rule coreless.
Cumingii pearls are produced either by the Hyriopsis cumingii mussel or by crossing
with the Hyriopsis schlegeli mussel. This kind of mussel is considerably larger than the
akoya oyster and capable of producing several pearls at once. With few exceptions,
almost all cultures are found in southern China.
MING PEARLS
Research into pearl cultivation continues undiminished, and it is now possible
to cultivate freshwater pearls with a core. All previous attempts had garnered little
success and resulted merely in the production of a few Japanese pearls known
as kasumiga. The “new” freshwater pearls with a core come from the same mussel
(Hyriopsis cumingii / Hyriopsis schlegeli) and are cultivated in China.
They are reputed to have been called Ming pearls in honor of the great emperors of
the mighty Ming dynasty.
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QUALITY CRITERIA
The quality of a pearl is determined mainly by the following five factors.
Size
Coating
Luster
Shape
Color
An expert assesses each single criterion on the basis of a detailed grading of the
individual factors. In the case of single or double strings of pearls, the combination
of individual pearls plays an important role. Nevertheless, the standards used in their
assessment are very much more diverse and closely interlinked. A conclusive evaluation of the quality of a pearl or string of pearls therefore calls for enormous experience.
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DETERMINING THE VALUE OF PEARLS
ASPIRING TO THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE QUALITY
Ultimately, the interplay of these quality factors determines the value of a pearl.
Assessing these criteria calls for a good deal of experience. In order to simplify the
customer's choice of the right pearls and to guarantee the highest possible quality,
Bucherer became the fi rst jewelers worldwide to introduce a pearl certificate. Here, an
expert provides a detailed description of the individual quality criteria and endorses
them for the customer.
A approx. 3 %
Only the best of all cultured pearls satisfy
Bucherer's demanding quality standards.
B approx. 10 %
C approx. 12 %
D approx. 25 %
E approx. 30%
F approx. 20 %
A Top quality in all ranking categories.
B Very good quality, with very slight divergences from top quality.
C Good quality with visible divergences regarding surface quality and shape, good luster.
D Inferior quality with visible divergences in all ranking categories.
E Poor quality with very marked divergences in all ranking categories.
F Defective pearls, which as a rule cannot be used for jewelry.
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PEARL CERTIFICATION
The details in Bucherer’s certificates are simplified to make them easier to understand
and are based on the following criteria :
SIZE
Depending on species, pearl size varies between approx. 3 and 18 mm in diameter and
in very rare cases may be even larger. The value and rarity of a pearl increase with its
size.
BABY
NORMAL
EXTRA
SUPER
COLLECTOR
South Sea
white
8–9
9 – 11
11 – 13
13 – 17
17 – 21
South Sea
Gold
8–9
9 – 11
11– 13
13 – 14
> 14
Tahiti
8–9
9 – 11
11– 13
13 – 16
> 16
Akoya
4–7
7 – 8.5
8.5 – 9.5
9.5 – 10
> 10
Cumingii
4–6
6–9
9 – 11
11 – 15
> 15
Sizes in mm
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SURFACE QUALITY
A pearl’s surface quality is assessed on the basis of the naturally occurring signs of
growth. The surface itself should be as smooth and uniform as possible. The smaller
the number of natural irregularities, the more valuable the pearl.
a) Spot Level (type and size of blemish)
Spot Level
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2
3
4
Spot
Bump
Chip
Scratch
Wrinkle
Size of
blemishes
none
S
M
L
the surface
has only few
imperfections,
i. e. slightly
weak spots (not
deep) are distributed across
the surface.
the surface has
many clearly
visible inclusions,
i. e. relatively
deep and visible
spots are distributed across the
entire surface.
b) Distribution of blemishes over the surface
no inclusions, or
at least 80 % of
the surface is
pure, i. e., it has
absolutely no
imperfections
or inclusions,
otherwise just
very small spots.
at least 60 % of
the surface is
pure, i. e., it has
absolutely no
imperfections or
inclusions,
otherwise just
very small spots.
c) Coating
Since pearls are a product of Nature, their coating, or grain, may not always be as
flawless as we might wish. The structure of a pearl’s skin may range from completely
smooth to a coarse grain.
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LUSTER
A pearl’s luster, or inner glow, is the most important factor in assessing its value. It is
determined mainly by the layers of nacre and the overall surface quality. Th e better the
luster, the more pronounced the pearl's iridescent shimmer.
LUSTER
finest
quality
very fine quality,
excellent
fine quality,
good
commercial
quality, matte
very good clarity,
optimum
refraction, clear
reflection
very good
refraction and
good reflection
good refraction
and reflection
possibly thin
coating with
“ milky ” (weak)
refraction and
reflection
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SHAPE
Pearls come in an array of shapes, such as round, drop, pear and baroque. The most
coveted – and thus most expensive – of these are perfectly round pearls. Nevertheless,
well-balanced baroque shapes are becoming increasingly popular.
SHAPE
round
near round
drop /oval
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button
baroque
circled
COLOR
The choice of color depends on the wearer's skin tone and personal taste.
Regarding color, a basic distinction is made between actual body color and the
overtone – the color of the reflection on the surface. These two tones may be identical
or completely different. For example, pearls with a basic gray-greenish undertone
and intensive iridescence in a different color are known as peacock pearls. Reflections
like these, however, are also found in other pearls. It is simply that the dual colors of
the peacock pearls from French Polynesia are the most readily visible.
And because color is a descriptive feature, the variety of descriptions is virtually
unlimited. Every pearl possesses a different combination of color and reflection. Its
price, therefore, depends very much on the popularity and rarity of the individual
color combination.
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2
3
4
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PEARL FARMING SITES
1 JAPAN
4 INDONESIA
2 CHINA
5 AUSTRALIA
3 PHILIPPINES
6 FIJI
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7 TAHITI
YOUR GUARANTEE FROM BUCHERER
In order to guarantee the quality and authenticity of your pearls, our buyers cultivate
close contacts worldwide with the trade’s most trusted suppliers and pearl farmers.
Bearing in mind the fair trade rules that apply to gemstone and pearl trading, they
seek out the most beautiful pearls – usually on the spot – and buy them direct, without
any intermediaries.
Fine pearls are rare, the demand for them all the greater. With the practiced eye of
the connoisseur, our experts can distinguish a special pearl from an ordinary one.
Thanks to many years of experience, familiarity with the markets and an instinctive
feel for the extraordinary, Bucherer is able to off er its customers only top-quality
pearls.
When buying pearls, implicit trust and ethics play a vital role. We take our lead from
the guidelines issued by the CIBJO (Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie,
Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie, des Diamants, Perles et Pierres) and apply them in accordance
with the ethical code of the watch and jewelry industry.
After their long journey back to Switzerland, the pearls are subject to another
intensive examination by our experts. Identification and assessments of quality and
value are among the demanding tasks carried out by our specialists. Our experts
hone their skills continuously in their quest to remain familiar with the latest methods
used in pearl farming.
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Every pearl is unique. Its delicate shimmer holds visions of endless white sandy beaches,
golden sunsets and turquoise blue seas. Its wonderful luster gives us a privileged
insight into a world of mystery and romance.
Pearls can be cultivated only in an intact natural environment. Long-term protection
of the areas surrounding pearl farms has given rise to nature reserves with a unique
and abundant diversity of species.
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