IM A G E : T OU RIS M A U ST R A L IA

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TIMELESS
NORTH
TIMELESS
NORTH
DARWIN
LITCHFIELD
From the vast wetlands, mighty gorges and waterfalls in Kakadu and
Nitmiluk to the ancient indigenous rock paintings in Arnhem Land,
the Top End is the glittering jewel of the north.
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S
oul-stirring and steeped in spirituality, the
Northern Territory is an achingly beautiful
part of Australia, home to larger-than-life
scenery and six dramatically different seasons. With
its ancient Aboriginal connection, the stories of the
Dreamtime are shared on cliff-face galleries, creating
the greatest and oldest collections of rock art in the
world. In national parks like the Kakadu, a pristine
World Heritage wilderness awaits.
Drift silently through rivers and lily-covered
wetlands on a guided cruise, spotting saltwater
crocodiles – leathery-skinned, prehistoric predators
– peering from the water. Go on a rock art gallery
tour, marvelling at 25,000-year-old paintings hidden
beneath sheer escarpments and caves, finishing with
a swim at the base of a tumbling waterfall. To fully
ARNHEM
LAND
K AK ADU
NITMILUK
NATIONAL
PARK
TIMELESS NORTH
appreciate Kakadu’s grandeur, soar over the Arnhem
Land escarpment and Gunlom, Twin and Jim Jim
Falls on a scenic flight.
South of Kakadu, Nitmiluk National Park
(Katherine Gorge) is another wilderness of surging
falls, rainforest and mighty cliffs. Picnic, camp or
swim at Edith Falls, which flow year round, or cruise
along Katherine River through Katherine Gorge –
sandstone gorges carved over millions of years.
During the monsoon, the wetlands swell with water
and millions of migratory birds, including jabirus and
dancing brolgas swoop across the floodplains. And if
you like fishing, you’ve hit the jackpot. The Territory is
famous for barramundi fishing – snare a prized catch
in the Daly or Mary River or catch and cook mud crab
or salmon in Darwin Harbour and estuaries.
KAKADU CALLING
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Describing Kakadu as a park does
not do it justice. This vast swathe
of land encompasses more than
20,000 square kilometres. Whether
you want to take a four-wheel drive
tour through a jaw-dropping
landscape of gorges, thunderous
waterfalls and floodplains or float
along on a river cruise, spotting
crocs lurking in the water, Gagudju
Dreaming is an indigenous-owned
company offering the whole kit and
kaboodle of Kakadu tours. To boot,
they offer flexible itineraries to suit
your travel plans and even a hotel –
the Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn,
which from the air is shaped like
a saltwater crocodile. All bases
are covered, in other words.
Gagudju Dreaming: gagudjudreaming.com; 1800 500 401.
ROCK ART AND WILDLIFE
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In the northwest corner of Arnhem
Land, the sacred site of Mt Borradaile
offers culturally sensitive tours to some
of the most restricted areas of Australia.
Davidson’s Arnhemland Safari Lodge,
set on 700 square kilometres of sacred
land, offers unmissable rock art tours;
the ancient paintings depicting the first
contact between Aboriginal people and
Europeans with remarkable detail –
ships and rifles are clearly visible.
Wildlife lovers are spoiled here too.
When the two billabongs of Cooper
Creek flood in the wet season, it’s a
birdlife bonanza with some 270 species
flocking to the region, from the jabiru,
with its elongated neck and crimson
legs, to brolgas, night herons, kites and
kingfishers. Davidson’s Arnhemland
Safaris: arnhemland-safaris.com;
08 8979 0413.
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FISH THE BEST BARRA
Big game anglers get a glint in their eye when the word “barramundi” is mentioned, and the warm, shallow
waters of the Mary River flood plains are one of the best places in the world to fish for this prized catch.
Guests staying at the luxury camp, Bamurru Plains, have exclusive access to a 100-sqare kilometre portion
of the wetlands, and during the peak barra season of February-April, there’s even a dedicated fishing lodge.
The expeditions are loads of fun, speeding along wetlands aboard an aircraft, among water lilies and semisubmerged melaleuca forests. While most ’mundi are “catch and release”, the occasional fish can be handed
over to the camp’s chef and cooked up for dinner. Bamurru Plains: bamurruplains.com; 02 9571 6399.
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LUNCH LIKE A LOCAL
Dip into freshwater pools beneath gushing waterfalls, fish for barramundi in the Daly River, and explore
the rugged Litchfield National Park on a guided tour with a local. Your personable Aboriginal guide will take
you to meet the riverside community of Nauiyu, and even show you the bush medicine cabinet – pointing
out the clever ways indigenous tribes used the region’s plants, shrubs and termite mounds. You’ll splash
about in clear, natural pools – far away from crocs, of course. As for lunch, well, let’s just say it’s quite the
spread – a feast of wild-caught barramundi, crocodile and kangaroo with salads, fruit, Tasmanian cheeses
and fresh breads. Northern Territory Indigenous Tours: ntitours.com.au; 08 8983 1434.
TOP END KIDS’
ADVENTURES
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Venture North’s safari-style camp,
set amid the savannah of the Garig
Gunak Barlu National Park, is a fine
base for exploring all the big-ticket
adventures, like the Kakadu and
Nitmiluk National Parks, Cobourg
Peninsula and Arnhem Land, and
tours can be tailored for families.
Even the most hyperactive littlie
will be entertained with childfriendly activities like learning how
to track animals, hunt for mud
crabs, and even how to make a
campfire (safely, of course). If you
haven’t guessed already, the
dominant theme here is fun, with
next-to-no chance of hearing the
dreaded, “I’m bored”. Venture
North: venturenorth.com.au;
08 8927 5500.
SWIM IN PRIVATE POOLS
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This stylish Jawoyn-owned lodge,
located on the Katherine River in the
Nitmiluk National Park has a wealth
of luxury spoils (fabulous dining
experiences, infinity pool, Bvlgari
amenities - the list goes on) but one
of its greatest allures is the location.
Venture out to explore the sights, some
of which are exclusive to guests staying
at Cicada Lodge. Among them is a
secluded swimming hole only known
in the English language as ‘the art site’.
Accessible only via helicopter, this
pristine pocket centres around a surging
waterfall, surrounded by a gallery of
ancient rock art, painted by the local
Jawoyn people. Cicada Lodge:
cicadalodge.com.au; 1800 242 232.
GLAMP IT UP IN THE WETLANDS
I M A G E : W I L D M A N W I L D E R N E S S LO D G E
You could bring your own tent and pitch it somewhere, messing about with tent pegs. Or, you could
set your GPS and drive to the Wildman Wilderness Lodge, situated in the Mary River Wetlands area
halfway between Darwin and Kakadu National Park, where you can glamp (that’s glamour camping,
for the uninitiated) in an environmentally sensitive, timber-floored safari tent decked out with kingsize beds, plump pillows, ceiling fans, ensuites and wide, shaded verandahs. During your stay, you can
book an adventure flight or fishing tour, walk or bike through flood plains or boat along billabongs,
watching as dragonflies and butterflies skim the water’s surface. The resident crocodile, a five-metre
beast named Big Arse, means swimming is off-limits, but there’s no need to worry – the lodge has its
own infinity pool. Wildman Wilderness Lodge: wildmanwildernesslodge.com.au; 07 5527 6860.
EXPERIENCE AUTHENTIC KAKADU
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Experience Kakadu’s glorious world-famous landscape – its craggy sandstone outcrops, sheer
escarpments, forests, floodplains and billabongs, through the eyes of its traditional custodians.
Travelling in comfortable 4WD vehicles with experienced indigenous guides, the one-day
Arnemlander Cultural & Heritage Tour is a small group, authentic experience visiting ancient
rock art sites and remote pockets of land inaccessible to other tourists. You will gain knowledge
of traditional land ownership, learn indigenous bush skills like hunting, food gathering and
bush tucker preparation, and meet Aboriginal artists at the Injalak Arts and Crafts Centre in
Oenpelli. Kakadu Cultural Tours: kakaduculturaltours.com.au; 1800 895 179.
PADDLE, TREK AND EXPLORE
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A canoeing excursion is the perfect
way to absorb the beauty of the
natural environment of the Katherine
River. Float across serene waters,
paddle down rapids, drift amid
paperbark forests and watch
wallabies, cockatoos and even the
elusive brolga congregate along the
shoreline. Or if you prefer to explore
on foot, take a guided journey into the
remote heart of southern Kakadu on
a 50km walk from Koolpin Gorge to
Twin Falls, traversing highland creek
country, hillsides dotted with dry
eucalypt and escarpments, and
visiting Aboriginal rock art sites and
cascading waterfall pools. Another
trek offered by Gecko is the Jatbula
Trail, a route travelled by generations
of Jawoyn between Katherine Gorge
(30 kilometres north-east of
Katherine) and Leliyn (Edith) Falls.
Gecko Canoeing & Trekking:
geckocanoeingandtrekking.com.au;
1800 634 319.
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CRUISE EAST
ALLIGATOR RIVER
Limited to just 25 guests,
the Guluyambi Cultural Cruise
along the East Alligator River
is an intimate – and fascinating
– glimpse into traditional
indigenous culture. With
expert commentary from
an Aboriginal guide, you
will learn more about the
importance of this river region,
home to an abundant diversity
of flora and fauna, including
crocodiles – along with local
mythology, traditional uses
for plants and animals as well
as bush survival skills. With
special permission from the
local custodians, the tour also
includes a short walk into the
Arnhem Land side of the river,
where guests are treated to a
display of traditional hunting
and gathering techniques. The
boat tour departs four times a
day between May to November.
Kakadu Cultural Tours:
kakaduculturaltours.com.au;
1800 895 179.
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JOURNEY INTO ARNHEM LAND
Travelling to Arnhem Land to explore the living culture of indigenous Australians is a lesson in ancient
history; the art hidden in rock shelters telling stories that plumb tens of thousands of years. Walk up Injalak
Hill (Long Tom Dreaming) with an Aboriginal guide to see extensive galleries of indigenous paintings, gazing
out at panoramic views across the floodplains. As one of only a handful of operators with permission to enter
traditional Aboriginal homelands in the region, a tour with Lords Safaris, owned by the charismatic Sab Lord,
allows you to gain a deeper understanding of this remote, mystical landscape. The small group, tailor-made
safaris are all led by knowledgeable guides who are experts in the rich cultural heritage of the region - and
wonderful story tellers. Lords Kakadu and Arnhemland Safaris: lords-safaris.com; 08 89482200.
GORGE ON NATURE
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The big question is not whether
you should experience the world
famous Nitmiluk (Katherine)
Gorge, but how. You can cruise,
canoe, hike, walk, swim or take
a scenic helicopter flight above
this incredible series of 13
gorges, which stretch over
12km, laced with emerald
waters, cascading waterfalls and
imposing cliff faces. Discover the
cultural significance of the area
to the local Jawoyn people with
Nitmiluk Tours. This indigenous
owned tour operator offers a
host of exciting experiences,
including canoeing, cultural
cruises, guided hikes, helicopter
tours and even accommodation.
At night, you can opt to camp,
stay in self contained chalets or
bed down in riverfront luxury
at Cicada Lodge on the banks of
the Katherine River. Nitmiluk
Tours: nitmiluktours.com.au;
1300 146 743.
LEARN FROM THE LOCALS
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If you’re time pressed, but still want
to gain a deeper understanding of
the Northern Territory’s indigenous
culture, a two-hour tour with Pudakul
offers a swift, yet informative glimpse
into the lifestyles of the local people
of the Adelaide and Mary River region.
During a two-hour Aboriginal
cultural experience, you will set
off on a bush tucker walk and talk,
watching didgeridoo and clapstick
performances, basket and dilly bag
making demonstrations, and chatting
to friendly indigenous guides who are
eager to share their stories, knowledge
and culture. Pudakul Aboriginal
Cultural Tours: pudakul.com.au;
08 8984 9282.