“ I like to pull a little bit of humanity into each painting. Even with the

ISSUE Nº. 001
BASEL
THURSDAY, 27th MARCH 2014
I N D E P E N D E N T. S P I R IT E D. S TO RY T E L L E R S .
LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION
Why do
I collect
watches?
THE FEMALE
CENTURY
By 2020, more than half of
Britain’s millionaires will
be women, with the number
growing by 11 per cent
annually. The fundamental
dynamics of the luxury
industry are set to change. –
Yiah Chan, read more page 08.
The moment
Mad Men
called
It was quiet and we were
sitting by the pool, and all of
a sudden the phone rang and
it was the Prop Master for
Mad Men. It was very exciting.
They basically needed the
watches in 24 hours, so that
was certainly stressful. They
said, “We need the watches,
and we need them shipped
tomorrow. We need pieces for
Don Draper, Roger Sterling
and all the main characters.
Did we mention we need them
tomorrow?” – Derek Dier, read
more page 02.
The Bronzo
‘The Bronzo’, would turn
out to be my true love. The
uniqueness and boldness of
the bronze case, the markings,
the patina… every day you can
change it. Some days I put
ketchup on it, other days lemon
juice, or 7UP to clean it. If it
wasn’t worth so much money
I’d definitely be buried with
it. – Pierrick Boyer, read more
page 06.
RAISON D’ÊTRE :
A N O P E N L E T T E R TO T H E WATC H I N D U S T RY
I wanted something that
We have some potentially alarming news… Despite scientific evidencerepresented the fusion
to the contrary, what attaches a wearer to their watch is not, in of art and engineering,
painstakingly crafted by
fact, its strap or its bracelet.
artisans as well as the latest
technology, and something
It is its story.
that I can pass on to my
kids. Watches fit the bill.
– Instagram Follower @no_
Time+Tide is a media group of world-leading watch writers who have frills_vc , read more page 09.
bonded over this shared belief. We are not reading enough old-fashioned,
beautifully crafted story in the current watch media landscape, so,
together, we are going to write it.
A MESSAGE
well-known
FOR OMEGA
We are dedicated to unearthing the untold stories of both the
and yet-to-be-known brands and watches. We then share this information
It would be great to see Omega
online, in print (glorious print) and in other surprising places, such
revive the ‘60s version of the
as events and launches.
DeVille. An Omega DeVille
with a date is one of the best-
We are less about the movement of the piece than we are about whatselling watches in the vintage
moved the designer or watchmaker to create it in the first place. market. The prices have
increased rapidly. The people
We endeavour to get as close as possible to this original inspiration,
thatour
are buying them are quite
the human story behind the mechanical marvel. We are also united in
well off. The clients I deal with
mission to bring the stylish everyday wristwatch wearer back into the
that are buying these watches
frame of global watch media.
“I like to pull a little bit of
humanity into each painting.
Even with the watch portraits,
I try to make sure there’s a story.”
for $1,000 already own their
$10,000 – $20,000 watch.
We are less about the celebrity ambassador on the billboard than we
They’re buying it because it’s
are about the entirely unfamous watch wearer on the street: this
understated ad it sits low on
discerning individual who has chosen to wear 17th century mechanical
the wrist. It’s automatic, it has
technology in a thoroughly digital age. Why did they choose today’sthe date, and it’s very simple. –
piece? What does it say about them? How did they come to own it inDerek Dier, read more page 02.
the first place?
American
interesting. I knew a little bit
part of my collection.
Hustle:
about
how
interested
people
And, in the final instance, it is about time. “Time and tide waits for
My focus is almost purely
are in watches
I thought it us to
Great Movie,
no man” is the very saying
that and
inspired
action. We know that
aesthetic. I like a watch for its
would be a good topic. But the
the human heart is not a perpetual calendar. We also know that our
shape, colour, sheen or texture.
Wrong Watch
more I delved into it, the more I
so-called golden age is now and that it happens to be coinciding with
At first, for
I just wanted
to do and better
though I like
to think that
my
So, a watch media platform
telling,
still,
sharing,
something
kind
of
cool
and
paintings
kind
of
work
as
a
stories about watches and wearers? You might say, “it’s about time.”
discovered this intense culture
All these different aspects that
BRADLEY COOPER
yet another golden agearound
for wristwatches.
horology.What
ExcitingI think
times
say
the least.
most to
watch
collectors
IWC – 0 STARS
We suggest offsetting the
lustrous Blancpain Villeret
Grand Feu enamel dial with
the tactile texture of a classic
linen jacket. – Felix Scholz,
read more page 08.
don’t necessarily consider.
fascinated me the most was
We look forward to telling watch stories and sharing wearer journeys
Another period faux pas.
not the watches themselves,
that will inspire, educate
and
entertain.
I
had
no
idea
that
the
100
Bradley Cooper plays a
but how passionate their
Watches
project
would
be
as
suspiciously haired FBI agent.
owners are about them.
effective or successful as it has
An FBI Agent who can afford
I only just purchased my first
been. No idea. I didn’t really
an IWC Da Vinci Perpetual
Sincerely,
watch very recently; a very,
care in the beginning anyway.
Calendar. A time travelling
very humble watch. I picked
I’d decided I was going to do
FBI Agent who can afford a
it up at a street market in
it whether people wanted to
watch from the late 2000s.
Portugal. It has a wooden
participate or not. After about
If you must use such an
bezel, the face is really simple.
20 I realised that this was
outrageously inappropriate
I’m a fan of round watches.
going to be much harder than
timepiece, at least put it on
It was gorgeous to me. My
I first imagined. – Matthew
a stretchy ‘70s band. – Felix
collection has only just begun,
Miller, read more page 05.
Scholz, read more page 03.
P.02
P.06
WEARING
BASEL
Watches on Screen
Time + Tide
Pierrick Boyer
P.08
The Female Century
FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED
DAILY, EXCEPT DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED
COMPULSIVELY. FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM
ISSUE Nº. 001
I N D E P E N D E N T. S P I R IT E D. S TO RY T E L L E R S .
LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION
Why do
I collect
watches?
THE FEMALE
CENTURY
By 2020, more than half of
Britain’s millionaires will
be women, with the number
growing by 11 per cent
annually. The fundamental
dynamics of the luxury
industry are set to change. –
Yiah Chan, read more page 08.
I wanted something that
represented the fusion
of art and engineering,
painstakingly crafted by
artisans as well as the latest
technology, and something
that I can pass on to my
kids. Watches fit the bill.
– Instagram Follower @no_
frills_vc , read more page 09.
The moment
Mad Men
called
It was quiet and we were
sitting by the pool, and all of
a sudden the phone rang and
it was the Prop Master for
Mad Men. It was very exciting.
They basically needed the
watches in 24 hours, so that
was certainly stressful. They
said, “We need the watches,
and we need them shipped
tomorrow. We need pieces for
Don Draper, Roger Sterling
and all the main characters.
Did we mention we need them
tomorrow?” – Derek Dier, read
more page 02.
The Bronzo
Published 2014 by Story Matters Most
© Copyright Story Matters Most 2014
Enquiries
[email protected]
All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, scanning or
photographing without prior permission
in writing from the publisher.
Editor : Felix Scholz
Contributors : Andrew McUtchen, Yiah Chan
Design Direction : Fiona Chambers
Illustrations : Matt Miller, Mal Chambers
A MESSAGE
FOR OMEGA
“I like to pull a little bit of
humanity into each painting.
Even with the watch portraits,
I try to make sure there’s a story.”
‘The Bronzo’, would turn
out to be my true love. The
uniqueness and boldness of
the bronze case, the markings,
the patina… every day you can
change it. Some days I put
ketchup on it, other days lemon
juice, or 7UP to clean it. If it
wasn’t worth so much money
I’d definitely be buried with
it. – Pierrick Boyer, read more
page 06.
At first, I just wanted to do
something kind of cool and
interesting. I knew a little bit
about how interested people
are in watches and I thought it
would be a good topic. But the
more I delved into it, the more I
discovered this intense culture
around wristwatches. What
fascinated me the most was
not the watches themselves,
but how passionate their
owners are about them.
WEARING
BASEL
I only just purchased my first
watch very recently; a very,
very humble watch. I picked
it up at a street market in
Portugal. It has a wooden
bezel, the face is really simple.
I’m a fan of round watches.
It was gorgeous to me. My
collection has only just begun,
We suggest offsetting the
lustrous Blancpain Villeret
Grand Feu enamel dial with
the tactile texture of a classic
linen jacket. – Felix Scholz,
read more page 08.
P.02
Watches on Screen
BASEL
THURSDAY, 27th MARCH 2014
P.06
Pierrick Boyer
P.08
The Female Century
though I like to think that my
paintings kind of work as a
part of my collection.
My focus is almost purely
aesthetic. I like a watch for its
shape, colour, sheen or texture.
All these different aspects that
I think most watch collectors
don’t necessarily consider.
I had no idea that the 100
Watches project would be as
effective or successful as it has
been. No idea. I didn’t really
care in the beginning anyway.
I’d decided I was going to do
it whether people wanted to
participate or not. After about
20 I realised that this was
going to be much harder than
I first imagined. – Matthew
Miller, read more page 05.
It would be great to see Omega
revive the ‘60s version of the
DeVille. An Omega DeVille
with a date is one of the bestselling watches in the vintage
market. The prices have
increased rapidly. The people
that are buying them are quite
well off. The clients I deal with
that are buying these watches
for $1,000 already own their
$10,000 – $20,000 watch.
They’re buying it because it’s
understated ad it sits low on
the wrist. It’s automatic, it has
the date, and it’s very simple. –
Derek Dier, read more page 02.
American
Hustle:
Great Movie,
Wrong Watch
BRADLEY COOPER
IWC – 0 STARS
Another period faux pas.
Bradley Cooper plays a
suspiciously haired FBI agent.
An FBI Agent who can afford
an IWC Da Vinci Perpetual
Calendar. A time travelling
FBI Agent who can afford a
watch from the late 2000s.
If you must use such an
outrageously inappropriate
timepiece, at least put it on
a stretchy ‘70s band. – Felix
Scholz, read more page 03.
FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED
DAILY, EXCEPT DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED
COMPULSIVELY. FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM
02
ISSUE Nº. 001
LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION
03
FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT
DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED COMPULSIVELY. FOR
SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM
M OV I E R E V I E WS A B O U T WATC H E S
Top of the Props
Lapels from the past and a watch
from the future. Ben Affleck in Argo.
Follow us on Instagram
@timetidewatches
Watch lovers are fully aware that their interest in timepieces doesn’t check
out at the doors to a movie theatre, or on the couch, enjoying their favourite
television programs. In fact, that passion only intensifies in these places, as
the horophiles’ eyes dart to the wrists of actors and actresses on the screen.
F R O M T H E E D ITO R
Welcome to Time+Tide,
a new voice in the watch
media landscape.
My name is Felix Scholz, I am the editor of Time+Tide and,
like so many of you – a lover of fine watches. While I would
profess to being a rounded man, I am unevenly weighted in
my interests and hobbies towards the little machines I wear
on my wrist every day.
In this mini-magazine, we hope to give a glimpse of what
we have planned at Time+Tide and what makes us different.
True to watch industry form, it is a limited run of only 250
copies, each Singer-stitched with red thread, which, in
heraldry and in our case, symbolises courage.
There is one story we’d like to highlight for your special
attention. In the centre spread, we interview a pastry
chef par excellence and a gentleman, Pierrick Boyer. It’s a
memoir told entirely through his watch choices over time.
It is also a perfect example of how our watch journey says
so much of our personal journey, through life, career and an
evolving sense of identity. You can expect more stories like
this from our writers at Time+Tide.
God knows there is enough collateral at in the watch world,
we don’t want to unnecessarily add to weight of your already
overfilled valise. But we wanted to publish this paper because
sometimes the old fashioned things, like watches, cannot be
beaten for getting an important message across in a way that
tells the world who you are.
A print publication says something about who we are at
Time+Tide, but there is much more to discover online,
at timeandtidewatches.com or in conversation with
our team.
We look forward to connecting.
Sincerely,
This section is dedicated not to reviewing
movies, but to reviewing the watches placed
in movies. We are assessing the choice based
on whether the story and the aesthetic of
the timepiece is a good fit with the character
wearing it. A very Time+Tide approach to the
subject, in other words!
A quick word of warning though: the ratings
below are in no way a reflection of the quality
of the movie. There have been some dreadful
movies with fantastic watches (yes you,
Expendables) just as there have been some
Oscar winning movies with unfortunate watch
choices, a major example of which is listed below.
fig 01.
IWC Portuguese Chronograph
(reference IW371480)
House of Cards
01.
fig 02.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
(reference 5196G), Drive
02.
03.
fig 03.
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
Digital Date-Month (reference
IW376107), American Hustle
MEET THE
MAN BEHIND
MAD MEN
WHAT IS THE GOAL
OF THIS EXERCISE?
To hopefully inspire more considered and,
yes, more imaginative watch placements in
show business. We are aiming to keep Prop
Masters as honest as Derek Dier, the watch
consultant employed to place watches for
Series 5 and 6 of AMC show Mad Men. His
thoughtful approach and attention to detail
when matching watches to characters is
nothing short of benchmark.
He sees a marked improvement in the
efforts of Prop Masters generally and the
emphasis placed on selecting appropriate
timepieces for era and character: “I think it
is happening a lot more. I notice I’m getting
a lot more calls to provide watches for
movies and they’re willing to spend money.
Generally they used to call me and want an
item for $200. I’d say, ‘You can’t get a watch
that will look appropriate for an era for a
couple hundred dollars.’
The devil is in the details, and never before
have they been so easily scrutinized. HD
video and Google have made it easier than
ever to identify onscreen watches, putting
pressure on Prop Masters to get it right.
TI M E + TI D E ’ S PAT R O N SA I N T
E R N E S T H E M I N GWAY
In his novel Across the River and Into the Trees the master
storyteller Ernest Hemingway compared a mechanical watch
to the human heart. It was the most beautiful reflection on a
timepiece that we’d ever read and inspiration to seek a more
writerly, poetic approach to watch writing.
We keep the picture pinned to the corkboard in our office as
a constant reminder and a motivator. The passage reads:
Felix Scholz
Editor, Time+Tide
[email protected]
Follower: @davidoffbrothers
Watch: Omega Seamaster
‘Bullhead’ Chronograph, circa
1969. Location: Geneva,
Switzerland. You and watches:
My brother and I have been
collecting vintage watches for
as long as I can remember.
We are passionate, addicted.
We can’t seem to get enough!
The story of this piece: Judging
by its papers this watch was
delivered to Mexico in early 1970.
The dial is pristine and we believe
it has been kept in a dark place,
perhaps a safe, for most of its life.
I was definitely the first to open
it to oil the movement, quite
amazing really. Why this one: It’s
such a funky look. The re-issue
of the Omega Bullhead is about
to arrive, which is really exciting,
Omega obviously think so too.
We also can’t wait to see the
Mark II Speedmaster.
“It’s just a muscle. Only it is the main muscle. It works
as perfectly as a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The trouble
is you cannot send it to the Rolex representative
when it goes wrong.”
“I just supplied
watches to a new
Clint Eastwood
movie, Jersey Boys,
which is about to
come out. They
didn’t hesitate
spending $5,000
dollars on some
basic watches for
the leads. They’re
paying more
attention because
I think they know
the public is more
intelligent now.
And because the
public is paying
more attention!”
Derek Dier
Watch Consultant
ARGO
BEN AFFLECK,
ROLEX SUBMARINER
1 STAR
An epic, ambitious film, that captures
the spirit (and fashion) of the times.
The props team, who did so well in
the beard and lapel departments,
failed epically when it came to the
watch, placing a 2008 ceramic Rolex
Submariner on 1979 Ben Affleck,
essentially giving his wrist a time
machine 30 years into the future.
DRIVE
RYAN GOSLING,
PATEK PHILIPPE
4 STARS
Such an ambient and quietly menacing
film by Nicolas Refn and such an
eye-catching choice of watch for the
taciturn driver played by Gosling.
His choice of a classic, tasteful and
expensive piece says volumes about a
man who, for the length of the film, says
almost nothing. Drive also proves that
even Hollywood budgets aren’t limitless
– instead of risking the real deal the
props team elected to use replicas.
THE WOLF OF WALL STREET
LEONARDO DICAPRIO,
TAG HEUER
2 STARS
DiCaprio actually sports a few watches
in this tale of excess and greed. After
he throws away his period (and
profession) correct gold Rolex he sports
a Heuer 1000 in gold. TWOWS perfectly
captures Wall Street’s watch culture
thought gets a little over zealous when
placing an IWC Big Pilot – ref.5002,
released in 2002 – on one of Jordan
Belfort’s sidekicks.
HOUSE OF CARDS
KEVIN SPACEY,
IWC
5 STARS
The Shakespearean Frank Underwood
is clearly a fan of IWC – he’s seen
sporting a dressy Da Vinci and a
Portuguese Chronograph (both in regal
gold). We really appreciate that Frank
isn’t just a one watch guy, and think that
both are pitch perfect choices. Modern
watches with elegant, masculine
design that just ooze the power that
Underwood craves. These dressy
watches are the perfect choice for
an aspiring President.
AMERICAN HUSTLE
BRADLEY COOPER,
IWC
0 STARS
Another period faux pas. Cooper plays
a suspiciously haired FBI agent. An
FBI Agent who can afford an IWC
Perpetual Calendar. A time travelling
FBI Agent who can afford a watch from
the late 2000s. If you must use such an
outrageously inappropriate timepiece,
at least put it on a stretchy ‘70s band.
Follower: @no_frills_vc
Watch: Patek Philippe Nautilus
ref 5711/1A. Location: Fifth
Avenue in New York City near
the Metropolitan Museum of Art
– during one of the recent snow
storms. You and watches: I am
drawn to superb craftsmanship,
subtle, elegant aesthetics and
heirloom value. In this age of
instant gratification and throwaway
products, I wanted something that
represented the fusion of art and
engineering, crafted by artisans
as well as the latest technology.
Something I can pass on to my
kids. Watches fit the bill. Why
this one: The 5711 is sleek, with
a distinctive shape that whispers
elegance rather than scream for
attention. Plus in steel and on a
bracelet, it’s an all weather watch.
I swim with it and take it to all sorts
of trips. No safe queen, this one!
04
ISSUE Nº. 001
LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION
05
FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT
DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED COMPULSIVELY. FOR
SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM
TI M E+TI D E I N T E RV I E W
100 Watches in Solitude –
the passion and the pain that
powered the 100 Watches project.
Matthew Miller first came
to our attention with his
ingenious take on a street
style blog, which he calls the
‘Daily Fashion Project’. Rather
than just photograph his daily
subject, Miller, under the nom
de plume ‘Sunflowerman’,
actually paints them in simple
watercolour portraits.
Epitomising the notion that less can
be more Miller manages to capture the
nuanced nature of identity using a spare
number of broad-strokes. He shows,
for example, how the way you hold
yourself, and the way you pose for a
portrait, can express your style as
much as your outfit.
There is, however, a problem with this
exquisite minimal style of painting
for lovers of the wristwatch. You can
never quite identify the timepiece on
the daily model. Miller has redeemed
himself in spectacular fashion with the
‘100 Watches’ project. He requested
that people send wristshots of their
favourite watches and, for a small fee,
he would paint them and send back a
signed copy.
Miller will now publish all 100 microportraits, along with a short story
about each wearer or collector in a book
titled 100 Watches. Time+Tide spoke
with Miller to find out what makes this
talented artist tick.
T+T: Why did you do the 100 Watches
project in the first place?
MM: At first, I just wanted to do
something kind of cool and interesting.
I knew a little bit about how interested
people are in watches and I thought it
would be a good topic. But the more I
delved into it, the more I discovered this
intense culture around wristwatches.
What fascinated me the most was
not the watches themselves, but how
passionate their owners are about them.
T+T: What is your personal story
with watches?
MM: It is a short story. I only just
purchased my first watch recently; a
very, very humble watch. I picked it up
at a street market in Portugal. It has a
wooden bezel, the face is really simple.
I’m a fan of round watches. It was
gorgeous to me. My collection has only
just begun, though I like to think that
my paintings kind of work as a part of
my collection.
T+T: In that case, your collection
is magnificent! Speaking of the
100 Watches gallery, from an artist’s
point of view, which models were
the most exciting to paint?
MM: That’s a great question. I did do
one MB&F watch, which was really
exciting because it was different. I’m
not sure if I’m going to say this right, but
the Panerai watches, if that’s how you
pronounce it, are also beautiful to paint.
T+T: There is an impression, from
your work, which is so lovingly
detailed, that you’re a watch fan,
but you seem really new to them…?
The 100 Watches book will be
available for purchase by mid-April
via sunflowerman.com. It features
the stories of 100 watches and their
wearers / collectors.
MM: It’s true. I really don’t know
anything about watches, my focus is
almost purely aesthetic. I like a watch
for its shape, colour, sheen or texture.
All these different aspects that I think
most watch collectors don’t necessarily
consider.
“I like to pull a little
bit of humanity
into each painting.
Even with the watch
portraits, I try to
make sure that it
carries a story with
it; the story of the
person who owned
it or created it.”
T+T: As it should, we love this project.
Why did you paint on the pages of an
old novel?
MM: That started a couple of years
ago, sort of as an accident, just as I was
really beginning my men’s fashion
journey. I was doing a lot of quick
gestural drawings and I was running
out of this paper I was using. But I
wasn’t ready to stop. So I picked up this
old book that was falling apart and I
used the pages from that. Right away
people responded. It adds some context
to a painting that doesn’t exist if it’s just
a plain white background.
T+T: Are the pages all from the
same book?
T+T: Did you have any idea the
project would become something
of an internet phenomenon?
MM: Man, I had no idea that it would
be as effective or successful as it has
been. No idea. I didn’t really care in the
beginning anyway. I’d decided I was
going to do it whether people wanted
to participate or not.
T+T: The paintings are each so
unique, they must have been a lot of
work. Was there ever a time when you
regretted committing to doing 100?
MM: After about 20 I realised that this
was going to be much harder than I first
imagined. And then after 50 I thought,
my gosh, there are still 50 more! And I
sat down every day, and I love painting,
but after a while it did feel a little bit
like work. I felt like I’d got in a little over
my head. But once I finished watch 100,
I was exhausted but really excited being
able to look back on all the watches. It
was just fantastic. It makes me happy.
MM: Yes, actually. They’re all Sherlock
Holmes stories. Which to me, is a
perfect context for men’s fashion in
particular, because Sherlock Holmes
tends to be this quintessential man’s
gentleman who is educated and he goes
out and gets things done. I think as a
whole, our culture looks up to him and
holds him up as an icon.
T+T: What is the secret ingredient
to your work?
MM: I like to pull a little bit of
humanity into each painting. Even with
the watch portraits, I try to make sure
there’s a story; the story of the person
who owned it or created it.
T+T: Having interviewed 100 people
about their favourite watches, are
you any closer to knowing why people
love them so much?
MM: One common thread were stories
of posterity. Often, people receive their
watches from parents or grandparents.
It came down from history and it ended
up being in their possession. That’s
one of the more powerful aspects of the
stories that came through in the project.
06
ISSUE Nº. 001
LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION
07
FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT
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W E A R E R WATC H J O U R N E Y
Pierrick Boyer
BY FELIX SCHOLZ
Pierrick Boyer is a master
pastry chef living, in the words
of Frank Ocean, one sweet
life. He is excited daily by the
act of balancing “unusual and
untested combinations” of
ingredients at his patisserie in
Melbourne, La Petite Gateaux.
fig 02.
Nº. 01 :
Pierrick Boyer, with his
beloved Bronzo and his most
recent purchase, a PAM 532
‘Paneristi Forever’
14K GOLD
COMMUNION WATCH
AGE: 12
WHERE: Versailles, France
My first watch was given to me at my
first communion. I was 12-years-old,
it was 14-carat gold. I remember it was
heavy! I wore it on Sundays or to my
grandparent’s house. I loved the way it
looked and felt. I was young, but I could
tell the craftsmanship made it special. I
moved around a lot with my parents and
it was misplaced somewhere.
If a picture paints a thousand
words, then one of Pierrick’s
avocado and chocolate tarts
paints many thousand more;
one for every taste bud
that dances to his culinary
creations. In the interests of
full disclosure I should confess
that Pierrick arrived at the
interview bearing a chocolate
chilli mango dessert that left
my ears ringing. No words. It’s
lucky, then, that a Dictaphone
could catch these, as he talks
Time+Tide through his worldspanning watch journey.
Nº. 02 :
ø : Case
47mm : Brushed Bronze
Dial
Green with applied luminous
dots and hour markers. Date at
3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock
Movement
Automatic mechanical,
Panerai P.9000
Strap
Personalised leather strap
and large-size brushed titanium
buckle
fig 04.
HO CHI MINH,
VIETNAM
SINGAPORE
fig 01.
MELBOURNE,
AUSTRALIA
AGE: 24
WHERE: California, United States
I bought it from a German retailer who
shipped it to me from Ibiza. I bought
it because it was half price. It cost me
$2500, which was a lot of money back
then; it was a big deal, it was over a
month’s salary. It was sparkly, different,
with the two digital sections.
CHOPARD
MILLE MIGLIA
FAVO U R IT E
WATC H S N A P S H OT
Circa : Model No.
2011 : PAM00382
fig 03.
PALM SPRINGS,
CALIFORNIA,
UNITED STATES
BREITLING B-1 PILOT’S
CHRONOGRAPH
Nº. 03 :
Make : Model
Panerai : Luminor Submersible
1950 3 Days Automatic ‘Bronzo’
VERSAILLES,
FRANCE
“I remember the first
time I saw a Panerai.
I was in California.
When I remember
that first sight, I get
a little shiver.”
AGE: 35
WHERE: Melbourne, Australia
This was the year I turned 35. I bought
so many watches. I was consulting as a
pastry chef and, for the first time, really
flying with all the extra cash. Instead of
saving it I would just burn it. This watch
was a favourite with female friends – the
red power reserve and tyre strap was
just hot.
Nº. 04 :
fig 05.
fig 01.
Breitling B-1
(reference A68362)
fig 02.
IWC Big Pilot
(reference 5009)
fig 03.
Panerai Luminor
Submersible 1950 3 Days
Automatic ‘Bronzo’
(reference PAM00382)
fig 04.
Panerai Radomir 1940 3
DAYS ‘Paneristi Forever’
(reference PAM00532)
fig 05.
Chopard Mille Miglia
GT XL Power Control
(reference 168457-3002)
fig 06.
Panerai Luminor
1950 10 Days
(reference PAM00270)
fig 07.
Rolex Deepsea
(reference 116660)
fig 07.
Nº. 05 :
Nº. 07 :
Nº. 08 :
PANERAI
PAM 270
PANERAI PAM 382
‘BRONZO’
PANERAI PAM 532
‘PANERISTI FOREVER’
AGE: 36
WHERE: Melbourne, Australia
AGE: 37
WHERE: Singapore
AGE: 39
WHERE: Singapore
I remember the first time I saw a Panerai.
I was in California. When I remember
that first sight, I get like a little shiver.
I knew it would only be a matter of time
until I had one. My first was a PAM 270.
I loved the brushed stainless steel case
with a ring of shiny steel and the 10 Days
GMT Power Reserve, but it was 44mm
and it just felt a little bit small.
This is a funny case of sliding doors
because I was actually invited to a
Panerai dinner as a result of the Rolex
Deepsea purchase. They were presenting
a new collection and I was kind of
showing off. I was high rolling with a
black credit card and I committed to
buying it before I even knew how much it
cost. The story has a happy ending,
because this watch, the Bronzo, would
turn out to be my true love. The
uniqueness and boldness of the bronze
case, the markings, the patina… every
day you can change it. Some days I put
ketchup on it, other days lemon juice, or
7UP to clean it. If it wasn’t worth so
much money I’d definitely be buried with
it. But instead it will go to my wife or my
family to be sold. All of my other watches
I could, and probably will, sell at some
point. Never the Bronzo. Never.
I met Volker from Germany at a Panerai
‘G2G’ in Singapore. He told me about a
book he’d written on vintage Panerai.
I was interested because I love World
War 2 history in particular. I wasn’t
really into the 1940s case of the PAM
532 at first, but he had so much passion
for the subject that he changed me. Now
I really like the styling of this piece, the
respect it shows to the past. A guy called
Jim Wirth gave me the strap. It’s a 1942
French ammo pouch. I burned a part of it
with my cigar one night to commemorate
a friend’s birthday. We were in Hong
Kong, it was a big moment. It was a way
to remember it, and it looks cool.
Nº. 06 :
ROLEX
DEEPSEA
IWC
BIG PILOT
AGE: 36
WHERE: Melbourne, Australia
AGE: 35
WHERE: Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam
I’d never really been attracted to Rolex,
but there were a few things about the
Deepsea that drew me in. Firstly, the
size and the thickness. I also wanted
to test the reputation for accuracy by
actually owning one. It proved to be a
beautifully balanced watch, it felt really
good on the wrist. But I just couldn’t get
emotionally attached to it.
It’s amazing. I love the classical aviation
styling and at 46.2mm it’s the perfect
size. The big face, the rivets in the strap,
this watch is perfectly realised. It was
hard to let go of when I sold it, but I
needed the money at the time.
fig 06.
08
ISSUE Nº. 001
LATE GENEVA AIR EDITION
09
FULL MAGAZINE PRINTED BI-ANNUALLY, ONLINE CONTENT PUBLISHED DAILY, EXCEPT
DECEMBER 25 AND 26, GOOD FRIDAY. SOCIAL CONTENT POSTED COMPULSIVELY. FOR
SUBSCRIPTION ENQIUIRIES SEE TIMEANDTIDEWATCHES.COM
THE FUTURE:
ENGINEERED
FOR WOMEN?
BY YIAH CHAN
HOROLOGIUM.COM.AU
If you’re a discerning woman
in the luxury watch world,
you’re hard pressed to find a
watch designed for a woman
that isn’t quartz, the size of a
men’s subdial or covered with
stones. What happened? How
did we come to this? Where
are the cutting edge watches
for women?
The luxury watch world is currently,
for better or worse, a man’s, man’s
world. Yet this wasn’t always the
case. Here’s something you don’t hear
about in most brand’s origin stories;
wristwatches were originally designed
to be worn by wealthy women. While
men caught on during WW1, mostly
through necessity, they were trumped
again a few years later when a woman
wore the first Rolex sports watch –
swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore a
Rolex Oyster when she successfully
swam the English Channel in 1927.
Three years later, in 1930, the
Rolex catalogue offered 79 women’s
wristwatches and only 37 for men.
So, there is a long history of women
wearing watches, and not just as
ornaments. But in today’s maleoriented watch world, women fall by
the wayside. When wristwatches are
designed especially for women, brands
seem to think that making something
smaller and festooning the dial with
diamonds is the way to go. Sorry, it
isn’t. Diamonds have their place, but
for many women jewelled watches are
price prohibitive and impractical for
everyday wear. Not all women want the
same types of watches anymore than
all men want the same – variety is
a good thing, and in this regard, the
watch industry is letting women down.
The 21st Century is being deemed
‘The Female Century’ and the facts are
compelling. By 2020, more than half of
Britain’s millionaires will be women,
with the number growing by 11 per cent
annually. The dynamics of the luxury
industry are set to change. The watch
industry might once have been men
buying for themselves, or men buying
for women. Soon it will be women
buying for themselves and, heaven
forbid, women buying for men.
Over to you, watch brands.
TI M E + TI D E FA S H I O N
Follow us on Instagram
@timetidewatches
WEARING BASEL
03.
We take a small sample of this year’s Baselworld releases
and pair them with the people and the outfits that will suit
them best.
PETER SPEAKE-MARIN
SPIRIT SEAFIRE
The story
English born independent
watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin
has been making distinctive
timepieces for over ten years –
this is his first chronograph.
How to wear it
The titanium Seafire with its
distinctive Piccadilly case peeking
out from under a Pringle cashmere
and Barbour cuff would make any
British heart swell with pride.
Who wears it
The Seafire is for lovers of military
inspired chronographs – someone
who understands the relationship
between watch and maker and
wants to dip their toes into
independent horology.
Why wear it
If you want a watch made in small
numbers with a greater degree of
customisation than that offered by
the larger maisons, the Spirit Seafire
is well worth considering.
OMEGA
SPEEDMASTER MARK II
The story
The 1969 Moonwatch is one of the
most storied watches around. But
it’s only part of the sprawling Speedy
family. Meet the Mark II.
How to wear it
It’d be tricky to pull this watch off
with a suit. Its beauty is not made to
be obscured by cuffs. The bold case
shape and retro masculine sporty
vibe make this a watch ideally
paired with a sports car and flame
retardant suit. Failing that – your
band shirt of choice.
Who wears it
This watch is for a man who’s into
vinyl and valve amps, but also loves
his macbook. It’s for someone who
wants a known brand with a great
story, but something a little less
expected than the standard Speedy.
Why wear it
The Omega Speedmaster is one
of the greatest, iconic watches of
all time. Period. The Mark II is its
funky younger brother. Still with the
great family name and legacy, but a
little less buttoned up.
BLANCPAIN
VILLERET
The story
Blancpain is a brand that values
their legacy. And nowhere is that
more evident than in the Villeret
collection. This latest addition is a
classic dress watch with Grand Feu
enamel dial.
How to wear it
To wear this watch you need to
understand that true style, like good
watch design, is timeless. While it’s
black tie ready, we suggest offsetting
the lustre of the dial with the tactile
texture of a classic linen jacket.
Who wears it
The Villeret is for people confident
enough not to be at the mercy of the
vicissitudes of fashion, and who
know that everyone needs a good
dress watch.
Why wear it
Simply put, the dial. An enamel dial
is a special thing to behold in the
flesh, and the rose gold case and
hand painted roman numerals show
it off to perfection.
BELL&ROSS BR03-94
CARBON ORANGE
The story
Bell&Ross were one of the first
brands to carve out a niche in the
hyper-masculine military watch
market with their now iconic
instrument watches.
fig 01.
Peter Speake-Marin
Spirit Seafire; Pair it with:
Waxed Jacket by Barbour
fig 04.
Bell&Ross BR03-4
Carbon Orange; Pair it
with: Denim by APC
fig 02.
Omega Speedmaster Mark
II; Pair it with: T-shirt
by Tbar
fig 05.
Maurice Lacroix
Masterpiece Gravity;
Pair it with: Suede derby
shoes by Paul Smith and
John Lobb
fig 03.
Blancpain Villeret Grand
Feu; Pair it with: Linen
Jacket by Cordings
How to wear it
It takes a degree of self-assurance
to wear a B&R watch outside of a
cockpit. The bright colour on this
limited edition only accentuates
this. This is unmistakably a casual
watch – we suggest pairing it with
some obscure raw, selvedge denim.
Who wears it
This watch is made for a younger
wearer working in a profession
where a bold timepiece is not
frowned upon, and stark lines
will be appreciated.
01.
Why wear it
Because you like it – it’s as simple as
that. It’s a perfect watch if you want
to make a statement.
Follower: @cutchdog
Watch: Omega Planet Ocean
XL. Location: Emirates Business
Lounge, Dubai. You and watches:
For years now I’ve bought fakes.
I had a collection. But I wanted
to move up to the big league.
Although it appeared that I had the
pieces, the B&Rs, the Panerais;
I could never wear them with
complete pride because I knew
the truth; they weren’t real, which
meant that I wasn’t being real
either. So I decided to step up.
Why this one: The Planet Ocean
made time for beautiful for me
again. It was not my first choice,
I’ve had pretend love affairs with
PAMs and B&Rs, but in the end the
rugged versatility sold me. I love
the story of adventure that comes
with an Omega. It’s bold, but not
too bold. It’s a watch you can wear
in and outside the box.
MAURICE LACROIX
MASTERPIECE GRAVITY
The story
Maurice Lacroix has spent the last
few years quietly making some truly
excellent watches. This year they’ve
made an impressive addition to their
higher end Masterpiece collection.
How to wear it
The industrial styling of the Gravity
speaks very much to the future,
while the blued hands and roman
numerals remember the past.
Pair this marriage of tradition and
innovation with blue suede shoes,
a collaboration between traditional
cordwainers John Lobb and
designer Paul Smith.
Who wears it
The Maurice Lacroix Gravity
is for the watch collector who
understands the importance
of technological innovation in
horology, and someone unafraid
of contemporary design.
Why wear it
Wear this watch if you are excited
about the future direction of highend watchmaking, and a lover of
futuristic, industrial design.
02.
04.
05.
Follower: @n4tos
Watch: TAG Heuer Carrera
Chronograph, Calibre 1887.
Location: Collins Street,
Melbourne, Australia. You and
watches: One of my earliest
memories is a ‘birthday present
request’ for a red and navy
Swatch watch following a visit to
the Swiss Pavilion at World Expo
1988 in Brisbane. I still remember
little details like the finish of the
band and the way it tasted when
chewed. Why this one: My line
of work requires me to engage
with key decision makers across
the public and private sector.
Presentation and perception play
a role in forming and maintaining
relationships, especially at senior
levels. While I don’t subscribe to
the concept that material items
maketh the man, I do think that a
well presented combination can
communicate messages about
one’s personality.
STORY DWELLERS
9842 ft = 3000 m
DIVING DEEPER
INTO STORY
-TI M E A N DTI D E WATC H E S .CO M