A Culinary Stroll - Espace presse tourisme

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2011
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Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur
A Culinary Stroll
Provence-Alpes-Côte-d’Azur Tourism Board
Press Office: [email protected]
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
www.terre-mediterranee.fr
www.52sunsations.com
A Culinary Stroll
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur is a pretty lucky region! Bathed in sunshine, brimming with ancient
traditions handed down through many generations, and literally packed with tourist attractions,
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur is also a European and Mediterranean crossroads, bordered by
the Mediterranean Sea, the Rhône river and the Alps, and home to world-unique assets.
And in this land of gourmets, southern cuisine rules!
Simple and healthy, our cuisine is at the centre of today's Health food trends – but don't be
fooled by appearances: it still has many secrets to unveil!
This publication by the Regional Tourist Board is designed to offer you plenty of tips for a surprising and enriching year-round voyage into our herb-scented hills, colourful markets and flavourful
dishes concocted by daring chefs!
On the Menu…
1/ Ingredients
3
Aromas
Local produce
Specialities
2/ Activities
7
Cookery classes
Walking, cycling and wine tasting
Rural encounters
Our top gourmet addresses
3/ Professional tips: our stars revealed!
13
Portrait of two star-rated chefs of the region
4/ Unusual or Cosmopolitan
14
A hotchpotch of curiosities and great ideas by regional inhabitants!
5/ Our fave markets and fairs
15
Not-to-be-missed weekly markets
Truffle markets
Gourmet markets
Christmas markets and fairs
6/ Culinary Calendar
7/ 2010-2011 Top Gastronomic
19
21
Addresses
Now it's over to you! The Regional Tourist Board's 4 press contacts are all big food fans and will
be delighted to offer you advice, let you in on the latest good deals and give you free access to
the photo library. Translation : Laura Valentine from English Assistance for Industry.
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
2
A Culinary Stroll
Ingredients
Aromas
Putting perfume into words!
Local produce
When soil and sunshine make babies!
Aromatic plants
Thyme, savory, rosemary, oregano, marjory
and basil... Herb-picking is an ancient tradition
here in Provence. These flavoursome herbs
are widely used in culinary preparations such
as cheeses, cooked dishes and charcuterie.
Saffron
Saffron was first introduced into Provence
when the Popes set up here in the 14th century.
It was subsequently produced in large quantities at the foot of Mont Ventoux. In the 17th
century, Carpentras was home to over 160
saffron growers! Production of this precious
and elusive spice gradually died out in the
19th century, but was recently reintroduced
thanks to two regional producers: “Safran
des Papes” in Bedoin and “Le Safran du
Ventoux” in Le Barroux.
Olives
The olive tree blossoms between April and
June. During its ripening period, the fruit becomes gorged with oil and changes colour
from green to black. Harvesting of olives
used for olive oil starts in early November in
Provence. This delicate task is done by hand,
or using a rake to comb the branches. The
olives are then collected on canvasses or
nets stretched out on the ground.
Did you know? 5 kilos of olives are needed
to make 1 litre of olive oil!
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
FOR HISTORY BUFFS
The anointment of the Kings
of France
In days gone by, the revenues of the town
of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence were handed
over to the Bishopric of Reims, and olive
oil from Saint-Rémy was used to anoint
the kings of France. Clovis - the first
Christian King of the Francs – was anointed
in 496 in Reims using olive oil produced
in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. This tradition
was subsequently perpetuated up to the
time of the French Revolution!
Rice
Camargue is France's leading rice-producing
area. Rice-growing also plays a major environmental role in Camargue, by providing the
fresh water needed to maintain the delta's
delicate ecological balance.
Rice first appeared in the South of France in
the late 13th century, when it was planted in
Camargue by order of Henry IV. In the
1840's, the role of the first actual paddy
fields was first and foremost to fight against
the salt threatening to transform Camargue
into a desert after earthworks were performed
to protect the area against flooding by the
Rhône river. But the French rice industry really
took off a hundred years later, during the
Great War of 1940. Thanks to the dynamism
of today's growers and research centres, rice
growing represents over half of Camargue's
cereal crops and is a major economic
springboard.
Spelt
This ancestor of today's cereals was first
grown in 9,000 BC! Consumed in abundance
until the Roman era, then abandoned in favour
of wheat, which gave better yields, Spelt
was rediscovered by the general public just
twenty years ago.
Garlic
Garlic made its first appearance in France in
the 14th century, and was equally popular in
the North and South at the time. From the
17th century onwards, its popularity decreased
in the North and was concentrated in the
South. In Provence, it became traditional to
roast garlic cloves on Saint John's Day to
protect families against the plague and cholera. The famous Provencal dish "Aioli" (fish,
hard-boiled eggs and vegetables served
with a garlic mayonnaise) was invented in
the 18th century and is still served at popular
heritage celebrations.
3
A Culinary Stroll
Ingredients (more)
Melon
Goat's cheese
Lavender honey
Consumed since Roman times, melons were
first grown in Provence in the late Middle
Ages and Cavaillon became the region's
“melon capital” at that time! Cavaillon's
municipal archives relate that melons were
offered as gifts to illustrious visitors in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries. Among the various
varieties grown here, the “Cantaloup” or
“Charentais” is the most highly-reputed.
The "Melon of Cavaillon" benefits from an
outstanding reputation and guaranteed origin.
There are no large cooperatives here – only
small producers specialised in goat rearing
who make their genuine own “farm goat's
cheese”. Whether you prefer them fresh,
mature or dry, these cheeses are a real treat
served with farmhouse bread and local wine.
“Banon” is an AOC goat's cheese, easily-recognisable thanks to its chestnut leaf wrapping,
and the pride of the Pays de Forcalquier
area – ranked as a “remarkable taste site”.
Bees find their inspiration in the herb-scented
hills, dry garrigue and lavender fields of Provence. Provence's delicately-perfumed and
outstandingly refined honey lavender is collected from the local hives in July and August.
Syndicat des Maîtres Melonniers
de Cavaillon
www.melondecavaillon.com
Black Truffle
The truffle, otherwise known as the black
diamond is a mysterious fungus that grows
under the ground... Extremely picky, it refuses
to flourish without a special kind of tree, a
chalky ground with a specific pH, a Mediterranean climate with hot summers interspersed
with storms and not overly-harsh winters. In
fact, its presence depends on so many factors
that its yield and quality vary wildly from one
year to the next – hence accounting for its
rareness and price!
Did you know that Provence is France's leading
producer of the so-called “Périgord” truffle?
The “Périgord” truffle is in fact a botanical
name rather than a geographical name. It
actually refers to the Tuber Melanosporum
variety, 70% of which is produced in Vaucluse. The Périgord region now produces just
15 % of French truffles. Most of the Vaucluse
production is sold to brokers and canneries
in Périgord. The truffle season lasts from
mid-November to mid-March.
www.banon-aoc.com
Lamb
Providing meat, wool, grease, leather and milk,
the sheep is still considered as a sacred animal,
with nearly 2,000 flocks roaming between
Camargue and the Mercantour area. The region's time-honoured sheep-rearing expertise
has successfully adapted to market evolutions,
while remaining faithful to natural grazing cycles. In summer, the flocks are herded up to
the high plateaux of the Southern Alps – an
ancient custom known as the “transhumance”. The town of Sisteron is reputed for
its Red Label lamb aged 6-12 months, raised
on mother's milk and grass.
The bull is the unrivalled sovereign of
Camargue! The result of a lengthy natural
selection process, this admirable beast is
widely worshipped, and the star of every
local celebration. Raised in semi-liberty in
the plains of Camargue, and especially in
the fertile meadows of the North, the bulls
of Camargue live on ranches under the discreet but attentive eye of the masters of the
domain – the “gardians” or horseback
herdsmen. Camargue bull beef is also widely
appreciated and now benefits from an AOC
label. It is used to make the delicious Gardianne beef stew.
Wine
The wines of Provence offer up a remarkable
piece of history that began when the Greeks
founded Marseille and planted vines in the
surrounding areas. In fact, Provence is
France's oldest wine growing region and rosé
wines were actually born here! The region's
reputed AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) wines include Côtes de Provence, Côtes
du Rhône, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, Coteaux des Baux, Coteaux Varois, Bandol,
Cassis, Côtes du Luberon, Côtes du Ventoux,
Gigondas and the prestigious Châteauneuf du
Pape, all brimming with the sunny character
of the Med!
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
And the Camargue bull…
4
A Culinary Stroll
Ingredients (more)
Specialities
From grandma’s recipes to legendary
regional dishes…
Bouillabaisse
Much like the city's football team or NotreDame de la Garde basilica, Bouillabaisse is an
intrinsic part of Marseille's heritage. A reflection
of the city itself – a melting pot of peoples
and cultures - Bouillabaisse is a cunning
blend of ingredients and skills that few people
actually manage to pull off. The name
“Bouillabaisse” originates from the Provencal
words “bout” and “abaisse”, meaning “cook
on a low heat”. Today's recipe dates back
to the 19th century, when fishermen sorted
out fish that was fit for sale and put aside
the rest for themselves and their families.
Preparation of the authentic Bouillabaisse
still follows a strict protocol: the dish must
be made with at least 4 types of fish and a
fish stock made with Mediterranean rockfish.
The fish must be extremely fresh and sliced
in front of the guests.
Tapenade
Traditionally served on canapés at aperitif
time, or used to stuff roast meats, tapenade
is a delicious, smooth paste made with
olives, capers, olive oil and garlic.
Pieds et Paquets (Tripes & Trotters)
This traditional Provencal dish is especially
popular in Marseille.
It is made with sheep tripes stuffed with
ham, garlic and herbs, then rolled into a parcel
shape. Despite its potentially off-putting
name, this – admittedly surprising - dish is
actually delicate and tasty.
Daube (Provencal beef stew)
Soupe au Pistou
Certain Provencal recipes are handed down
endlessly through the generations – and this
is one of them. This autumn and winter dish
is based on beef marinaded in red wine. The
meat is diced then left to soak in red wine
the evening before it is cooked. Accompanied by carrots, garlic, black olives, Herbes
de Provence and, occasionally, orange
zests, the “Daube” is simmered for several
hours in a pot or casserole dish. It is served
with pasta or jacket potatoes. And here's a
little tip: it's said to be even better when reheated!
If there's one dish that smacks of summer
days in Provence, it just has to be the
“soupe au pistou”.
Served in August-September, it is a typical
market dish, made with colourful haricot
beans, diced tomatoes and courgettes. This
eminently heart-warming dish, simply made
for sharing, is so filling that a main course is
likely to be unmanageable...
It owes it legendary taste to its “pistou”
sauce: a blend of garlic, olive oil and basil.
Provence has a myriad of family recipes –
because the people of Provence believe that
cooking is above all a family affair!
Anchoïade
Anchoïade is a typical southern preparation
which, as its name suggests, is based on
anchovy fillets and is whipped up rather like
a mayonnaise. The simplest recipe consists
of mashing anchovies and garlic with olive
oil. Anchoïade is often used as a dip for raw
vegetables such as carrots, cabbage, celery,
radishes, tomatoes, artichokes and spring
onions, but it is also delicious spread on
croutons.
Poutargue, otherwise known as the “caviar
of Martigues”, is made from mullet roe cut
whole from female grey mullet in July and
August. The pouch-shaped roe is poached,
salted and dried, before being coated with
wax to stop it maturing and protect it from
outside contact. Poutargue can be eaten in
thin slices, grated on pasta or spread on
buttered toast.
It is now considered as a luxury product.
Aïoli
In days gone by, cooks used to refer to aïoli
as the “butter of Provence”. It is actually a
mayonnaise made with crushed garlic (aï in
Occitan) and olive oil (oli in Occitan). The recipe
is simple and all you need are the right tools:
a stone or wooden mortar, a good pestle,
good ingredients and... patience! Aïoli is served with a large dish of cooked vegetables
(carrots, fennel, potatoes, etc.) and poached
white fish. Provence's major summer heritage
celebrations traditionally wind up with a giant
aïoli banquet!
Aïoli is more than just a dish. As famous Provencal author Fréderic Mistral put it: “aïoli is
a concentrate of the power and joyfulness
of the sunshine of Provence”.
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Poutargue
Petits Farcis (stuffed vegetables)
“Petits farcis” actually originate from the inland
countryside above Nice. These stuffed vegetables were an ingenious way for farmers'
wives to use up leftovers of stews, roasts or
boiled meats. Over the years, and with increased spending power, this clever little
trick has now become a dish in its own right.
Tourtons de Champsaur
A speciality of the Champsaur valley in the
Hautes-Alpes area, “tourtons” were originally
served as part of the Christmas meal. They
were also nicknamed “baby Jesus's cushions”.
“Tourtons” are something like deep-fried
Cornish pasties. They are traditionally stuffed
with potatoes, or plums when served as a
dessert. They are generally accompanied by
salad or cured ham.
5
A Culinary Stroll
Ingredients (more)
Bull beef stew
And for those with a sweet tooth
A typical Provencal recipe par excellence,
“La Gardianne” originates from the Arles
side of Camargue. It is made with Camargue bull beef. Both tasty and popular, it
is prepared the evening before and simmered
for several hours. It is served with Camargue
rice and the same wine used to marinade
the meat.
More than a simple tradition, this dish is instilled with all the unbridled power and energy
of Camargue.
According to one of the numerous legends
surrounding the birth of the “Calisson d'Aix”
- known as the "Calisone" in Italy and the
“Kalistsounia” in Greece - these lozengeshaped candies, made of almond and
melon paste and topped with rice paper,
first made their appearance in Aix-en-Provence in about 1473, at the wedding banquet held for King René's second marriage.
Scrambled eggs with truffles
Navettes
Truffles are easy to cook, but making the
most of them is much more of a challenge...
The “brouillade de truffes” is definitely the
simplest and perhaps one of the best ways
to enjoy this magic mushroom!
The truffle is placed whole in an airtight
container with the eggs the evening before,
to perfume them. It is then grated and
added to the scrambled eggs just before
serving.
This typical Marseille biscuit is said to be associated with the discovery of a statue washed
up on the banks of the Lacydon in the late
13th century. This wooden statue, representing
a virgin with a dirty green dress and wearing
a golden crown, was seen by the people of
Marseille as a symbol of destiny and protection.
Others say that this boat-shaped biscuit
symbolises the rowing boat that brought the
Saint Maries to the shores of Provence. In
memory of this event, Monsieur Aveyrous,
who founded the city's famous “Four à Navettes” patisserie shop in 1781, decided to
create a delicious biscuit, perfumed with
orange flowers, in the shape of a boat.
At least this second legend has the merit of
explaining the biscuit's shape!
Today's “Navettes” are perfumed with orange
flower water and all types of spices.
Ratatouille
Ratatouille is a typical southern dish formerly
referred to as “La Bohémienne”. It is actually
a blend of coarsely-cut sweet peppers,
courgettes, aubergines, tomatoes and onions
cooked up in olive oil.
Ratatouille is one of the South of France's
“musts” and its recipe is often a closely-kept
family secret!
“Calisson d’Aix” candies
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Apt crystallized fruits
The town of Apt in the Luberon has been
the capital of crystallized fruits for seven
centuries, and the Popes were particularly
fond of this little delicacy. The local apothecaries – who were in charge of the business
at the time – invented numerous variations
on the theme. Despite this, it took 150 years
for this craft industry to really take off thanks,
surprisingly, to the English! Great sweet-lovers, the English soon sealed the reputation
of these delicious fruits.
6
A Culinary Stroll
Activities
Cookery classes
Bouillabaisse cookery classes
with a top Marseille Chef
Wine and food - a perfect marriage
at Château de Berne
Sharing the tricks of the trade!
Aided and abetted by Le Miramar's Chef
Christian Buffa, participants enjoy purchasing
a selection of the day's catch at the fabulous
fish market on the city's Vieux Port, preparing
a genuine bouillabaisse in the kitchens and
– naturellement – tasting the result!
Once a month, from 9.30 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Bookings at the Marseille Tourist Office.
Price: €120/person
Château de Berne is a magnificent 1,500-acre
vineyard situated in the Haut-Var area of inland Provence, overlooked by an ancient
18th century castle. The vineyard features a
Provencal-style, four-star Relais & Châteaux
hotel, set in the heart of vines and garrigue.
The adjacent Wine and Cooking School is
set inside a small, restored country house
and welcomes guests throughout the year.
The Chateau hosts one-day oenology courses
for beginners, including wine making and
tasting techniques (from €90 including meal).
NEW
Adventurers of taste
in the Ventoux area
Situated in Brantes, in the Pays du Ventoux area, Odile and Jacqueline host
a delightful culinary experience combining discovery of the fruit of the soil in
its natural environment and a healthy,
seasonal cookery class.
After the class and “gourmet relaxation
session”, participants head off armed
with various recipes and expert tips, plus
samples prepared during the class! Price
€25 to €35 per person.
Brantes Le Village
84390 Brantes
+33 (0)4 75 28 86 77
www.lesaventurieresdugout.com
Saffron course at Domaine
de la Madelène in the Ventoux area
This estate runs summer courses dedicated
to saffron crocus planting and courses in
October-November (the flowering period) on
the theme of harvesting, pruning, drying and
packing, as well as culinary preparations
using saffron.
The courses last a day and the dates are set
by request of participants (courses held for
4 participants or more). Price per person:
€140 / day (including breakfast)
4, la Canebière
13001 Marseille
+33 (0)8 26 50 05 00
www.bouillabaisse.com
www.marseille-tourisme.com
Truffle cookery class at an
18th-century mansion house
Welcomed by a delightful hostess and chef
Gina, truffle fans will love this foray into the
world of the black diamond, including a tour
of the Carpentras truffle market, visit to a
truffle grower and cookery classes on the
theme of “truffles and cereals”, “truffles and
fish”, “truffles and poultry” and “truffles and
eggs”.
Lasting 3 nights and 4 days, this luxury break
costs from €495 and includes accommodation in double room, breakfast, three dinners,
a truffle brunch and 4 cookery classes.
Carpentras
+33 (0)4 90 51 99 98
www.maison-trevier.com
Domaine de la Madelène
84410 Bedoin
+33 (0)6 81 30 84 13
http://safrandespapes.com
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Route de Salerne
83510 Lorgues
+33 (0)4 94 60 48 88
www.chateauberne.com
Local produce at Bastide
de l’Adrech
Chef Robert Le Bozec hosts cookery classes
for groups of three or more, individuals or
professionals. According to the season, Robert
unveils the secrets of his delicious truffle, game,
mushroom, poultry and Provencal preparations. €30 / person (3 hours approx)
Classes on weekdays and weekends according to demand.
And if everyday life seems a little tame after
your stay, don't forget you can pop back for
a weekend at Robert's B&B for just €34 upwards!
Avenue des Serrets
04100 Manosque
+33 (0)4 92 71 14 18
www.bastide-adrech.com
7
A Culinary Stroll
Activities (more)
Cookery classes at a star-rated
restaurant at the foot of the Popes’
Palace in Avignon
Boasting a long and tumultuous history,
the regal, 19th-century Mirande hotel hosts
delightful and friendly cookery classes in its
magnificent kitchens, led by one of the region's
top chefs.
Price: €80 to €135
Hôtel de la Mirande ****
4 Place de la Mirande - 84000 Avignon
+33 (0)4 90 14 20 20
Fax. +33 (0)4 90 86 26 85
www.la-mirande.fr
Saffron workshop at the Dentelles
de Montmirail, a few minutes from
Avignon
Marie and François Pillet reintroduced saffron
growing at the Dentelles de Montmirail seven
years ago and have now created a precious
garden around their ravishing guest house.
Saffron crocuses are nurtured everywhere
here: at the foot of the old house, on terraces
and on little 200-300 sqm South-facing plots.
This is now one of France's largest saffron
farms, totalling 800 sqm.
Everything from planting to harvesting is done
by hand, to preserve the properties of this
delicate spice and offer it the best possible
treatment. The site is simply beautiful during
the flowering period in October, and this is
the busiest time too: 150,000 flowers are
needed to obtain just one kilo of saffron!
Marie hosts thematic weekends with cookery
classes. Price for 2 guests: €290 including
night in double room, breakfast, afternoon
cookery class and dinner including drinks.
L’Aube Safran ****
450 chemin du Patifiage
84330 Le Barroux
+33 (0)4 90 62 66 91
+33 (0)6 12 17 96 94
www.aube‐safran.com
Truffle Day in Ménerbes, Luberon
The “Maison de la Truffe et du Vin” wine and
truffle institute regularly stages truffle days.
On the programme: truffle hunting with a grower and his dog, an “all truffle” lunch followed
by tasting of wines from the regional wine
centre (selling Luberon wines at direct chateau
prices) – All-inclusive price fixed early November according to annual truffle prices:
around €100 / person.
Situated in the heart of the hilltop village of
Ménerbes, in a superb and entirely refurbished 17th-century mansion house, the “Maison
de la Truffe et du Vin” also stages a permanent
exhibition on truffle growing.
The institute even sells fresh truffles during
the winter truffle season (15/11-15/03) and
summer truffle season (15/04-30/08)!
Maison de la Truffe et du Vin
Place de l’Horloge - 84560 Ménerbes
+33 (0)4 90 72 38 37
Fax. +33 (0)4 90 72 37 23
www.vin‐truffe‐luberon.com
CLOSE-UP
Make your own wine in the Côtes
du Rhône
Located in Violès, to the North of Avignon, Maison Lavau raises virtually all of
the AOC wines from the southern Rhône
valley, from Côtes du Ventoux to Côtes
du Rhône, and including such prestigious
Appellations as Tavel, Vacqueyras,
Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The establishment hosts wine assembling classes, where participants (2-10
people) kitted out with droppers and test
tubes create their own ideal wine from
the region's typical grape varieties. And
to top it all, you can take a bottle of your
personal vintage home! (classes in
French and English) – Price: €30/person
Maison Lavau
84150 Violès
+33 (0)4 90 70 98 71
www.lavau.eu
Kitchen garden and organic
restaurant in Camargue
Set in deepest Camargue, La Chassagnette
cleverly combines natural charm and contemporary design. This ancient sheepfold was
converted into a restaurant in 2000, and is
set around an extraordinary organic kitchen
garden, which forms the centrepiece of the
site. Bearing the Ecocert organic farming
label, the garden offers guests a delightfully
colourful and sweet-scented stroll, ideal for
sharpening the appetite and discovering the
ingredients you will find embellished in your
plate a bit later, courtesy of Armand Arnal!
La Chassagnette stages a variety of cookery
classes from early April onwards. Price
€90/half day (including lunch with drinks).
Every Monday and Friday except in July/
August.
The restaurant is open lunches and evenings except Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
La Chassagnette
Le Sambuc - Arles
+33 (0)4 90 97 26 96
www.lachassagnette.fr
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
8
A Culinary Stroll
Activities (more)
To sharpen your appetite
Walking, cycling and wine tasting
Electric bike itinerary in Côtes du
Ventoux
Terra Ventoux in Villes-sur-Auzon offers tourers
a great new way to discover the AOC Ventoux terroir – on a new-generation electric
bike! This is an easy way to get around the
beautiful but hilly Ventoux landscapes, lined
with cherry orchards and vineyards, and you
will be extra-motivated by the wine and
snack lined up for you after the effort... The
group price for 10-12 participants includes
bike hire and the wine itinerary.
Price: bike hire €19 – wine itinerary €8/person
Terra Ventoux
Villes sur Auzon
+33 (0)4 90 61 79 47
www.terraventoux.com
“Rando Bistrot” (Bistro Walking Itineraries)
– as its name suggests, this walking itinerary is followed by a well-earned
meal at one of our Bistrot de Pays bistros!
Bistro Walking Itineraries
The Alpes de Haute-Provence “Bistrot de
Pays” association recently dreamt up this
novel concept, involving walking itineraries on
various themes led by local guides, winding
up with a tasty bistro meal made with local
produce!
The 14 itineraries include: wild, aromatic,
medicinal or edible plants, goat's cheese,
lavender, saffron, almonds, cereals, Christmas
nativity plays, etc. Price from €33/person (in
French)
Fédération Nationale des Bistrots de Pays
Le Grand Carré - BP 41
04300 Forcalquier
+33 (0)4 92 77 68 86
www.bistrotdepays.com
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
CLOSE-UP
What are the Bistrots de Pays ?
First born in 1992 in the Haute-Provence
region, this original concept now accounts for around 190 establishments
throughout France, including around 50
in Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. Genuine
local cultural ambassadors, offering multiple services, the Bistrots de Pays are
absolute musts for all those seeking to
glean information on local curiosities and
culinary specialities, or simply mix with
the locals!
Our faves:
- Le Bistrot : A gorgeous alley of conker
trees leads up to the charming little terrace of this bistro, offering a simple and
definitely friendly welcome.
Le Bistrot
04300 Pierrerue
+33 (0)4 92 75 33 00
- Chez Jules : Situated at an altitude of
700 metres, this bistro offers panoramic
views over the neighbouring hilly fields of
lavender, wheat and olives. It also serves
typical Haute-Provence cuisine.
Chez Jules
04700 Puimichel
+33 (0)4 92 74 98 10
Côtes du Rhône Wine
Appreciation Itineraries
With Olivier Hickman from Wine Uncovered in Sablet. Olivier Hickman knows everything there is to know about the local terroir!
Originating from the UK, this Rhône valley
wine buff believes the only real way to understand a wine and how it differs from its
neighbours is to get a close-up on the vines
and the soil they grow on. Olivier enjoys sharing
his passion with wine enthusiasts through a
series of half and full-day walks based
mainly around Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, but also covering a
variety of other Appellations. You can pick
from a choice of packages with or without
transport, staged for a minimum of 3 participants. Quotations on request (French and
English) – Prices from €45/person
Wine Uncovered
Olivier Hickman
+33 (0)6 75 10 10 01
www.wine-uncovered.com
With Julien Poujol, Sommelier and oenology expert. Julien Poujol offers a warm
welcome to his home town of Gigondas, in
the heart of the wines, where visitors can
enjoy an AOC Côtes du Rhône and Gigondas
wine presentation and tasting session accompanied by tapenade canapés and topped
with an aroma recognition game and cellar
tour. You can also take part in vine thinning
in spring, pruning in December-April and the
grape harvest in late summer! The various
packages on offer include the vineyard tour,
wine tasting in the vines, cellar visit, gourmet
tasting session and aroma recognition game.
Prices: from €8 to €12 - (French and English)
Découvertes vigneronnes
Julien Poujol
+33 (0)6 78 70 55 93
www.viti-oenotourisme.com
9
A Culinary Stroll
Activities (more)
Rural encounters
Enter into the rural world with
our farmer itineraries!
Staged in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
area, these morning or afternoon itineraries
unite farmers and the general public around
the region's rural traditions. Offering a rare
peek into our agricultural heritage, they are
also a great opportunity to chat with bona
fide producers and taste some great fresh
fare!
The 19 farmer itineraries (itinéraires paysans)
are run by local farmers. Please contact
them to book.
Length: 2 - 3 hours / Price: Adults: €7 - 6 to
12 years: €3.50 / Groups of 6-30 / Booking
obligatory
www.itineraires-paysans.fr
Melt for spelt…
Véronique and Thierry Baurain welcome
guests at their farm situated in “Les Truques”
in the Forcalquier area.
Some years ago, these born-again farmers (he
was an engineer and she was a sports teacher) decided to set up a project around the
classic Mediterranean threesome of cereals,
wine and olives, first celebrated by the Greeks.
You can tackle the itinerary on foot or take
Thierry's customized quad.
The tour features a truly fascinating insight
into the ancient techniques used to sow,
grow and reap spelt wheat – now one of the
stars of today's back-to-basics slow food
trend. Thierry speaks English, German and
Italian and is a member of the Haute-Provence syndicate of spelt growers (benefiting
from the European Protected Geographical
Indication label).
Buzz, buzz buzzing along
Bee-keepers and honey producers Vicenta
and Christian Hogedez invite you to follow
in the flight path of their bees, from the village of Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire to their
bee farm. And as you skirt around the pretty
old ruins and mulberry trees you will also
enjoy glimpses of ancient farming activity
just outside the village.
Vincenta et Christian Hogedez
04870 St-Michel-l’Observatoire
/ Fax. +33 (0)4 92 76 65 22
Olive grove tour and oil tasting
at Moulin de l’Esquirol (Le Pradet - Var)
An intrinsic part of Provence's historic and
cultural heritage, the 17th-century Moulin de
l'Esquirol oil mill is bordered by an exceptional veteran olive grove, plus no less than
2,000 young trees.
This delightful and informative guided tour
offers an in-depth insight into olive growing
techniques and how the various types of
olive oil are olive-based products are made
on site.
The tours run:
- every Tuesday and Friday from October to
April at 2.30 p..m
- every Tuesday and Friday from May to
September at 6 p.m.
- every Tuesday and Friday from January to
end March 2011 at 2.30 p.m.
Length: 1 ½ hours / Price: Adults: €2.50 –
Free for under 12's/ Groups of 4-25 / Booking obligatory
Le Moulin de l’Esquirol
83220 le Pradet
+33 (0)4 94 08 28 20
www.moulinesquirol-oliveraie.com
Les Truques
04300 Forcalquier
+33 (0)4 92 74 30 01
+33 (0)6 33 49 27 24
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Gourmet walking tour at Domaine
de Jasson in La Londe les Maures
This 3 ½ hour visit led by a nature guide, interspersed with a walk and tasting session,
takes place in the domain's beautiful olive
grove, where the ancient vines have now
given way to no less than 4,900 olive trees
including the Aglandau, Bouteillan, Cayon,
Grossane and Picholine varieties. Once harvested, the olives are processed from A to
Z at the on-site oil mill to guarantee their origin and quality. The resulting green and fruity
olive oil offers up a delicious bouquet of artichoke, green almonds and apples.
Length 3 ½ hours (walking time 1 hour) /
Price: Adults: €8 – Children 8-12 years €4
- Free for under 8's / Booking obligatory /
Groups of 5-30 max.
Route Collobrières
83250 La Londe les Maures
+33 (0)4 94 01 53 10
The secrets of the truffle at Verger
de la Machotte in Cotignac (Haut-Var)
Ah the legendary truffle... the most fascinating,
intriguing and coveted mushroom of them
all! At Verger de La Machotte, Philippe delights in introducing visitors to his trade, truffle
hounds and how truffles are nurtured... You
will also enjoy a truffle hunting session starring
truffle hound Pépette or one of her furry
friends! The session winds up with an olive
oil tasting session in the late afternoon and
participants leave with a verrine containing
the precious nugget!
January-February 2011 at 2 p.m.
Length: 2 hours / price: guided visit + truffle
verrine €25 / Booking obligatory / Groups
of 2-12.
Verger de la Machotte
Route de Barjols
4713 Camp Jouven
83570 Cotignac
+33 (0)4 94 72 04 21
10
A Culinary Stroll
Activities (more)
Our top gourmet addresses
Truffle ice cream
This chocolate maker situated in the Enclave
des Papes quarter has concocted an astonishing but extraordinarily delicious truffle ice
cream and also runs pastry classes for
groups of 5-8 participants.
Jef Challier, Artisan du Goût
16, place Aristide Briand
84600 Valréas
+33 (0)4 90 35 05 22
Jean-Luc Rabanel throws a whole new
light on the plant world and organic farming.
You can eat at his amazing restaurant outside “ritual” hours, or go there to pick up a
basket of fruit and vegetables straight from
the organic garden. This relatively new addition to Arles' must-do eateries is an ode
to inventive and authentic cuisine.
L’Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel**
7, rue des Carmes 13200 Arles
+33 (0)44 90 91 07 69
www.rabanel.com
Les Navettes
Delicious dry biscuits scented with orange
flower. This boat-shaped biscuit is traditionally
associated with the Candlemas ceremony
celebrated at Saint-Victor Abbey. Some say
that its shape was inspired by the rowing
boat that brought Mary Magdalene, Mary
Salome and Mary Jacobe to the shores of
Provence. The “Four des Navettes” - the
city's oldest and most traditional bakery –
continues to turn out this delicious local
speciality.
www.fourdesnavettes.com
José Orisini also offers a tempting choice
of Navettes at his shop “Navettes des
Accoules”.
www.terranuova.fr
Olive-shaped chocolates
and olive oil chocolate...
The first can be bought at all good souvenir
shops, but olive oil chocolate is much harder to
come by. So don't miss a visit to the Chocolaterie Durand in Saint-Rémy de Provence!
The specialities of Marseille…
La Chocolaterie Durand
in Saint-Rémy de Provence :
www.chocolat-durand.com
Le Pastis
Calisson candies
Perfumed with aniseed, this typical Marseille
alcohol is a popular, and even sacred, “aperitif”. You can find it in every supermarket,
but nothing beats the traditional, homegrown concoction you can taste and buy at
the Maison du Pastis on the Vieux Port
quayside.
Aix's speciality par excellence. Léonard Parli
set up home in Aix in 1874, where he opened a confectionery that was to become famous throughout the world. Visitors can
now enjoy guided tours of the workshop,
where calissons, crystallized fruits, nougats
and chocolates are still produced in line with
the strictest traditions.
www.lamaisondupastis.com
Confiserie Léonard Parli
35, avenue Victor Hugo
Aix-en-Provence
+33 (0)4 42 26 05 71
www.leonard-parli.com
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Roman chocolates and biscuits
in Orange
(North of Avignon)
Mouth-watering delicacies in the shape of
Emperor Augustus! (a 3.55 m statue of the
emperor can also be seen in the Roman
Theatre stage wall).
Boulangerie Pâtisserie
Didier Carpentier
9, rue Pourtoules
+33 (0)4 90 34 30 18
Olive ecomuseum in Volx,
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
Many years back, Olivier Baussan, founder of
the world-famed cosmetics firm L’Occitaneen-Provence, decided to set up an exhibition
centre based on the Mediterranean olive
tree.
Used to provide food, carved into utensils
or burnt as firewood, the olive is also used
to produce cosmetics and was a holy unction
for all three major Mediterranean religions.
Olive growing has marked the landscapes,
traditions and lifestyle of the Mediterranean
civilisations and thrown bridges between
them.
The museum also sells an excellent choice
of top-quality olive oils.
Exhibition accessible to the blind and disabled – Price: Adults: €4 - Students: €2 Free for under 16's.
Opening times: 10.30-12.30 a.m. and 2-6
p.m.. Closed Sundays - Annual closure from
December 24th to February 21st.
Ecomusée de l’olivier
Ancienne route de Forcalquier
04130 Volx
+33 (0)4 92 72 66 91
www.ecomusee-olivier.com
11
A Culinary Stroll
Activities (more)
Buy direct from the farm
Camargue
Maison des Vins des Côtes
de Provence
Situated at Grand Mas du Roy, on the ancient
Route de Saint-Gilles, Mireille and Frédéric
Chabert specialise in fruit production. Open
all year round, you can buy a host of flavourpacked produce from their picturesque 14thcentury farmhouse, including olive oil, fruit
juices, seasonal fruits, farm cheese and
Camargue salt and rice.
Bringing together no less than 800 different
AOC Côtes de Provence wines, this highlyreputed wine institute stages introductions
to wine tasting. You can also take advantage
of a choice of meeting rooms and the gastronomic “La Vigne à Table” restaurant focusing
on regional cuisine. All wines are sold at direct
château prices!
Languages spoken: English, German, Italian,
Spanish, Dutch.
Au Grand Mas du Roy
Route de Saint-Gilles - 13200 Arles
+33 (0)4 90 93 42 89
[email protected]
Maison du Miel in the Southern Alps
The Maison du Miel is housed inside a magnificent mountain chalet in Puy-Saint-Vincent,
set overlooking Vallée de la Vallouise. Beekeepers Laurence and Jean-Paul Chaud
enjoy introducing families to the world of
bees through their pretty museum and
home-grown produce. You will also enjoy a
delicious hot chocolate served by the fireside
in winter
La Maison du Miel
Route Camping
05290 Puy Saint-Vincent
+33 (0)4 92 23 51 50
La Maison des vins
Route nationale 7
83460 Les Arcs-sur-Argens
+33 (0)4 94 99 50 20
[email protected]
www.caveaucp.fr
Nougatier Boyer nougat maker,
in the lavender fields of Sault
Founded by great-grandfather Ernest in
1887, then successively run by Léonce, Jean
and André, Maison Boyer has maintained its
original deep ties with its region and continues to produce irresistible artisan nougats.
The Sault shop is open every day from 7.30
a.m. to 7 p.m. and you can also ask to visit
the adjacent little museum retracing the establishment's history!
Nougat André BOYER
84390 Sault de Vaucluse
+33 (0)4 90 64 00 23
www.nougat-boyer.fr
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Le Moulin Arizzi
Looking for a really high-class olive oil? The
Arizzi "Pur Terroir" extra virgin olive oil is
made exclusively using olives grown on the
estate and picked by hand! Assembled
using a blend of Aglandau, Picholine and
Frantoîo olive varieties, the resulting nectar
offers up a fabulous perfume of artichokes,
almonds and cut grass, topped with an exceptional green robe... Simply royal!
Le Mas des Pins
04190 Les Mées
+33 (0)4 92 34 04 80
www.moulinarizzi.com
Distilleries et Domaines
de Provence
Located in Forcalquier (ranked as a “Remarkable Taste Site”) in the Haute Provence
area, Distilleries et Domaines de Provence
has been making typical Provencal alcohols
and liqueurs for over a century.
Ranging from the legendary Pastis Bardouin
to the evocatively-named Rinquinquin and
Farigoule peach and thyme aperitifs, this
shop is an ode to the colours and flavours
of Provence!
Distilleries et Domaines de Provence
Avenue Sainte Promasse
04300 Forcalquier
+33 (0)4 92 75 15 41
www.distilleries-provence.com
12
A Culinary Stroll
Professional tips: our stars revealed!
Portrait
Eric Sapet, a Chef with his heart
on a plate.
Wout Bru, a Belgian chef in love
with Provence.
After working at Paris's top restaurants (La
Tour d’Argent, Le Marée, Jacques Cagna, etc.),
Eric Sapet was elected best young cook by
the Guide Champérard in 2003. His various
initiatives have helped further the recognition
of Provencal cuisine overseas.
In 2007, Eric seized the opportunity to buy
up La Petite Maison in Cucuron, in the heart
of the Luberon area, where he now concocts
typical Provencal fare served in the shade of
veteran plane trees.
Eric's delicious and playful cuisine uses the
very finest seasonal produce and brims with the
traditional Provencal flavours of yesteryear.
Far from their home country of Belgium, Wout
and Suzy Bru have set up home in Eygalières, facing the Alpilles mountains, amid
olive groves and vineyards.
After earning his spurs at the Auberge de
Provence in London's chic borough of Saint
James, Wout opened Chez Bru in 1997
and was rapidly crowned with two stars in
the Michelin Guide.
Served in a crisp, contemporary decor, Wout's
light and fuss-free cuisine overflows with
the colours and flavours of local sun-dried
tomatoes, olive oil and truffles. Wout works
in line with the seasons and blends his Provencal ingredients with subtle hints of his
Belgian origins.
1/ Where do you originate from?
I was born in Belgium – in Antwerp to be
precise – and spent my childhood in Beerse
near Antwerp.
2/ What prompted you to come to the
region?
The climate! I did nearly all my training in the
region and got a taste for it.
3/ What regional products do you like
cooking most?
Olive oil and red mullet - their delicate taste
really reflects the simple and authentic spirit
of Provence.
4/Are Provencal recipes a source of inspiration for you?
No, not really the recipes, but I am inspired
by all kinds of Provencal ingredients such as
garlic, thyme and rosemary, and seasonal
fruit and vegetables.
I find the local produce very flavourful.
1/ Where do you originate from?
I was born in Salon de Provence, then trained
in Paris (La Tour d’Argent (3 stars), La Marée
(2 stars), Jacques Cagna (2 stars), etc.).
I came back down to the South to Ardèche
(La Cardinal, Relais & Châteaux, 1 star), then
the Mas des Herbes Blanches in Joucas in
the Luberon (1 star). I bought up La Petite
Maison in Cucuron (1 star) in 2007.
2/ Why did you set up in Cucuron
(in Provence)?
I feel at home here, near my friends and family.
The village is charming and picturesque and
the restaurant was just what I was looking
for.
4/ How important is regional produce to
you?
It has pride of place in my dishes, in particular the vegetables produced by Cucuron's
market gardeners such as Grambois asparagus, organic vegetables from the Grande
Ferme du Réal, fish from the Grau du Roi,
organic crayfish from Camargue, and wild
mountain mushrooms from Lure.
5/ What advice would you give to lend
a dish the spirit of Provence? What are
the basics?
First and foremost avoid clichés – Herbes de
Provence, tomato and garlic won't turn
every dish into a Provencal classic!
Provencal food is based on good-quality,
seasonal, local produce, and olive oil is often
the staple ingredient. But even a dish like
hare stew can become Provencal if it's
made with hare from our mountains, cooked
in Côtes du Rhône wine and seasoned with
bay leaves, a few branches of thyme and a
couple of juniper berries from the slopes of
Mont Ventoux.
La Petite Maison* (Michelin)
Place de l’Etang
84160 Cucuron
+33 (0)4 90 68 21 99
3/ What's your speciality?
We don't have any specialities – we just
work with seasonal produce to make real
market cuisine that changes every day. We
do have a few classics though, such as the
Hare à la Royale, Scallops with Truffles and
variations on the lobster theme.
Chez Bru** (Michelin)
Route d’Orgon - 13810 Eygalière
+33 (0)4 90 90 60 34
[email protected]
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
13
A Culinary Stroll
Unusual or Cosmopolitan
JUST OUT!
The melon burger...
The Mac Prévôt melon burger created by
Cavaillon chef Jean‐Jacques Prévôt is a
slice of bread spread with a ketchup
made with melon pips, then layered with
an astonishing blend of sliced artichoke,
basil and pistou, topped with pan-fried
foie gras and crowned with a Parmesan
cheese crunch and two slices of the famous Cavaillon melon!
Restaurant Prévôt
353 avenue de Verdun
84300 Cavaillon
+33 (0)4 90 71 32 43
www.restaurant‐prevot.com
An olive oil made like a perfume...
An elegant bottle for a prestigious potion...
This is an ultra-chic way of presenting such
a traditional product! And the chateau shop
is far from selling just olive oil - you will also
find a host of decorative items and local produce there, hence their surprising slogan
“Have you ever shopped at a castle?”
Château d’Estoublon
Route de Maussane
13990 Fontvieille
+33 (0)4 90 54 64 00
www.estoublon.com
A sparkling rosé wine!
Situated just a few kilometres from Aix-enProvence, Château du Seuil is a Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence AOC wine producer.
In this region where rosé wines reign, the
Château stands out with its excellent sparkling rosé, offering up a similar taste to pink
champagne but sold for less than €10!
A visit to this beautiful 13th – 17th century vineyard is a must during your stay in the Aix
area.
Les oreilles d’âne
The heirs to the “Green Fairy”!
This amusing dish, typically served in the
Hautes-Alpes area, owes its name to the
fact that it is made with wild spinach gathered
when the leaves take on the shape of donkey
ears!
The spinach is then rolled in dough and
used as stuffing.
This is the perfect dish for hungry aprèsskiers and exhausted hikers!
Numerous aniseed-based aperitifs existed
in the 19th century, way before Pastis was
officially invented. Dry, white aniseed drinks,
known as Anisettes, rivalled with bitter green
beverages, the most famous of which was
the legendary Absinth, or “Green Fairy”,
whose disappearance marked the end of
the bitter aniseed trend. Connoisseurs
continue to regret their refined and uniquely
refreshing taste.
Today, La Liquoristerie de Provence pays tribute to these bygone brews with its Versinthe
and Aqualanca; ancestors of Pastis, but totally different from today's popular drink.
Marrow fries – when regional
fare encounters fusion cuisine
Held in the village of Rians in the Haut-Var
area, the Fête de la Courge marrow festival
(see our fave markets and fairs) brims with
the gorgeous colours and scents of Provence! Punters can enjoy sampling crepes,
jams, macaroons and various old-fashioned
recipes, but the sweet & savoury marrow
fries really get the prize for the craziest
concoction!
A gourmet Provencal fast food joint!
“One bull beef sandwich and a large fries”.
Orders are taken here just like at a fast-food
restaurant, but with one difference: everything
at the Carré des Gourmets in Saint-Rémyde-Provence is stamped “Made in Provence”.
The concept revolves around burgers, fries
and other fast-food products concocted
using local Camargue produce, such as bull
beef, goat's cheese, Sault nougat and olive
oil, and served in a contemporary taupe and
lavender decor decked out with designer
furniture.
And to further promote regional fare, Carré
des Gourmets also has a show room presenting a range of Provencal culinary
“musts”.
Opening times: Tuesday –Saturday / 8 a.m.
- 10.30 p.m.
La Liquoristerie de Provence
36, Avenue de la Grande Bégude
13770 Venelles
+33 (0)4 42 54 94 65
A Bouillabaisse burger!
Sylvain Robert's restaurant L’Aromat revisits
Provence's traditional Bouillabaisse in luxury
fast-food style! The fish is placed inside a
home-made roll, the fish soup is served with
a straw and you can nibble the chickpea Panisses like fries. A real treat!
L’Aromat’
4, Rue d’Italie
13006 Marseille
+33 (0)4 91 47 57 50
Le Carré des Gourmets
ZAC de la Gare
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Château du Seuil
4690 Route du Seuil - 13540 Puyricard
+33 (0)4 42 92 15 99
www.chateauduseuil.fr
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
14
A Culinary Stroll
Our fave markets and fairs
Not-to-be-missed weekly
markets
Arles
The Arles market is not just one of Provence's most beautiful markets, it is also
one of the largest: each stall measures
around 5 metres in length and the Saturday
market totals a surface area of around 2.5
km! With 450 sellers on Saturdays and 300
on Wednesdays, this is a genuine concentrate
of Provence, where eager punters can pick
up the very finest local fruit and vegetables,
cheeses, meat and fish, honey, olive oil,
Camargue rice and cockles – plus clothes,
shoes, fabrics and arts & crafts. Don't miss
the legendary Saucisson d’Arles !
Weekly market: every Saturday from 8 a.m.
to 12.45 p.m., Boulevard des Lices
Bric-a brac market: every first Wednesday
of the month from 8 a.m. to 12.45 p.m.,
Boulevard des Lices
Forcalquier
The Forcalquier market is a genuine institution.
The largest of the Alpes de Haute Provence
markets, it is also one of the finest you will
find in Provence.
Forcalquier's market tradition dates back at
least to Roman times. The stalls occupy the
main square and spill over into the old town
and adjacent streets. People come here
from far and wide to stroll among the stalls
and admire the show of local produce, fabrics,
pottery, clothes and much more.
Weekly market: every Monday from 8 a.m.
- 2 p.m., Place du Bourguet and Place Martial Sicard
Organic farm market: every Thursday from
3-7 p.m., Place du Bourguet
Aix-en-Provence
Apt
Aix stages a constant stream of specialist
markets throughout the week. Selling vegetables, old books or flowers, they fill the
streets with clamour and colour. The perfect
place for getting familiar with local sunny culinary traditions, you can visit them on the
many squares located in the town centre and
throughout the various quarters of the town.
The Apt market has been taking place every
Saturday morning since the Middle Ages and
its 350 or so stalls continue to invade the
town centre every weekend throughout the
year. It was labelled an “exceptional market”
in 1996 in recognition of its atmosphere,
authenticity and the products on offer.
The Tuesday farm market (marché paysan)
offers a great show of seasonal produce,
with treats such as local fruit, vegetables,
goat's cheese, honey, eggs, snails, poultry,
bread and plants. And the atmosphere is a
sheer delight!
Vegetable market: Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday, Place des Prêcheurs and
Place Richelme
Flower market: every day from 8.30-12.30
a.m., Place de l’Hôtel de Ville
Old book market: every other Sunday,
Place de l’Hôtel de Ville
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Held in the old quarter of Saint Rémy de
Provence, this lively and colourful market
specialises in herbs, spices, olives, oils, fruit,
vegetables, honey, flowers, fabrics and antiques! Strollers can enjoy sampling a range
of local goodies from regional producers, and
this is also a popular outlet for local artisans.
Main market: Every Wednesday and Saturday
Brignoles and Les Lecques
The markets of Provence have inspired
some of our most illustrious figures, from
Marcel Pagnol to Gilbert Bécaud. More than
just a symbol, they are an intrinsic part of
local traditions, where ancient know-how is
handed down and the latest gossip is passed on! The Brignoles and Les Lecques
markets are definitely worth a visit.
Brignoles
Main market: every Wednesday and Saturday from 8 a.m. – 1 p.m., Place Caramy
Flower and arts & crafts market: every
Saturday from 7 a.m. – 1 p.m., Place du 8
Mai
Les Lecques
Every Sunday morning
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Main market: every Saturday morning from
8-12 a.m. throughout the town centre
Farm market: every Tuesday morning from
8-12 a.m., Cours Lauze de Perret
Velleron
Velleron is ranked among France's 100
most beautiful markets. First launched in
1985, it brings together around 150 stalls at
the ancient village train station and specialises in just-picked local fruit and vegetables.
This colourful and sweet-scented market is
also easy on the pocket!
Farm market: Every day from 6 p.m., Place
du Château
Les Halles d’Avignon
Situated in the city centre, Les Halles forms
the heart of Avignon. This beautiful Provencal covered market brings together around
40 of the very finest local producers, selling
incomparably tasty and fresh fare.
Don't miss the cooking demonstrations staged at La Petite Cuisine des Halles every
Saturday morning by the region's top chefs!
Covered market: Tuesday to Friday from
6 a.m.-1.30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays
from 6 a.m.-2 p.m.
La petite cuisine des Halles: every
Saturday from 11-12 a.m. - free entry
15
A Culinary Stroll
Our fave markets and fairs (more)
Isle sur la Sorgue
Digne-les-Bains
Specialising in crockery, glassware, pottery,
antiques from local country houses, quilting,
Provencal fabrics and wrought iron, this famous and history-packed market is an ode
to vintage Provence and a definite must for
all visitors to the region.
Featuring 7 “antiques villages” and 5 “boutique areas” (totalling around 300 permanent
stalls), it is now second only to its Parisian
counterpart.
This is a smaller-scale market but nevertheless extremely busy! Held on the main thoroughfare, it is packed with locals and
visitors come to peruse the show of arts &
crafts, farm produce and fabrics.
Antiques and bric-a-brac market: every
Sunday, all day, Av. des 4 otages
Main market: every Sunday from 8 a.m.-2
p.m., town centre and quaysides
Farm market: every Thursday morning
from 9-12.30 a.m., Place Rose Goudart
Book market: every last Sunday of the
month
For details on all of Provence's markets,
check out
www.marches-provence.com
Gap
This gorgeous market specialises in fruit and
vegetables lovingly nurtured by the town's
producers, plus a variety of regional goodies
such as honey, charcuterie and cheese. The
town takes on a buzzing party atmosphere
on market days, as basket-laden buyers
mingle with strollers and energetic stall-holders
noisily proffer their wares.
Main market: every Saturday morning,
Place Jean Marcellin
Farm market: every Wednesday morning,
Place de la République
Main market: Wednesday and Saturday
mornings, Boulevard Gassendi
Fair: every 1st Saturday of the month, Boulevard Gassendi
Truffle markets
(Mornings from mid-November to mid-March)
Truffle markets are completely unlike any
other markets. Here, “caveurs” (pickers)
stand on the “carreau” (market floor) to present
their coveted treasures to traders, brokers,
canners and restaurateurs from all over
France.
Transactions take place in the courtyard of
the Hôtel Dieu in Carpentras, or around the
boots of cars parked on either side of the
main road, as in Richerenches.
And there are no stalls or shouting... payments
are immediate and in cash.
The Carpentras truffle market is considered
as a pricing reference, but the largest volume
of truffles is actually sold at the Richerenches market. Private individuals are not
allowed to purchase truffles on these markets, but you can generally find them on
stands situated adjacent to the official market.
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Vaison-la-Romaine Market, market every
Tuesday morning
Valréas Market, every Wednesday morning
Aups Market every Thursday from 10-12 a.m.
Carpentras Market, every Friday (9 a.m.)
Richerenches Market, every Saturday
(10 a.m.)
2nd Ban des Truffes market opening ceremony in Richerenches on November 19th, 2011
Ménerbes small truffle market (sale to
private individuals), last Sunday of December
Richerenches truffle mass, every 3rd Sunday in January
For details on all truffle markets and fairs,
check out
www.truffe-passion.fr
Our fave gourmet fairs
Foire à la gastronomie
Allauch (Bouches-du-Rhône)
January 9th, 2011
This gourmet fair and “Fête de la Saint Clair”
celebration, organised by the Allauch festival
committee, has replaced the wild game fair
held here in bygone days, when the streets
were lined with stalls piled high with game
for the traditional Saint Clair banquet.
Today's the celebration revolves around the
sale of pork roasted on a spit the previous
night, while the gourmet fair proffers typical
Provencal specialities such as anchoïade,
tapenade, nougats, and honey and nougat
“jaw breakers” from Allauch!
16
A Culinary Stroll
Fête de la Fraise
Velleron (Vaucluse)
Fête de la Vigne et du Vin
Throughout the region
Fête de la Véraison
Châteauneuf du Pape (Vaucluse)
May 8th, 2011
Selling 100% local-grown strawberries and
strawberry-based products such as jams,
syrups, fruit juices, tarts, macaroons, candies and pastries, the Fête de la Fraise
strawberry fair in Velleron is a much-coveted
event by connoisseurs from throughout the
region!
Organised with flair by the Confrérie de la
Fraise (strawberry brotherhood!) in conjunction
with the Velleron en Fête festival committee,
this fair also features ancient “enthroning”
ceremonies, a host of non-stop entertainment, a traditional car boot sale in the village
streets and concert by the “Le Fraisier” ensemble.
June 4th, 2011
The Vine and Wine Fair is a mega open day
taking place throughout Provence-AlpesCôte d’Azur's vineyards and wine cellars.
It is a great opportunity to glean first hand
information on every facet of the wine growing
industry.
August 5th - 7th, 2011
Taking place at the height of summer, the
Fête de la Véraison is a combined wine and
medieval fair, featuring processions and medieval military marches, plus medieval dancing
on Place de la Renaissance.
La Véraison kicks off a few weeks before the
grape harvest, when the grapes start to ripen.
This is a crucial time for the coming vintage,
and the moment chosen by Châteauneufdu-Pape to celebrate its unique heritage
with a genuine river of fabulous wines presented by local wine growers, producers
and cooperatives.
Transhumance
St-Rémy-de-Provence
Whit Monday, May 24th, 2011
From late May onwards, water gets rarer
and as the drought kicks in, no grass is left
for the sheep to graze on. It's time to move
to the mountain pastures! Although the
sheep are now transported by truck, this
long voyage took place on foot in bygone
days and took over 10 days. The “Fête de
la Transhumance” celebrates yesteryear's
departure to the summer pastures.
Fête de l’agneau
Sisteron
(Alpes-de-Haute-Provence) - June 2nd, 2011
A delightful heritage event, the Lamb Fair
features a packed programme, including various entertainment, exhibitions, herding
contests, shearing demonstrations and a
Provencal meal based on lamb! During the
fair, you can enjoy seeing the local flocks
wandering around the streets before they
head off to the mountains.
A traditional sheep-rearing town, producing
César Protected Geographical Indication
and Red Label lamb, Sisteron is also home
to Europe's first specialist ovine abattoir.
Fête du miel et de la Lavande
Riez
(Alpes-de-Haute-Provence) - July 2011
One of the treasures of Riez and the Valensole plateau, Provence's lavender honey is
now famed – and unequalled - throughout
the world. This golden and delicately scented
nectar runs from the flowers to the hive and
the hive to the plate from mid-July onwards,
and is fittingly celebrated at the Riez Honey
and Lavender Fair!
Fête de la Cerise
La Roque d’Anthéron
July 2nd and 3rd, 2011
La Roque d’Anthéron Cherry Fair heralds
the onset of summer!
In the olden days, the village's cherry fair
attracted visitors from throughout the region.
Reinstated by the inhabitants of La Roque
some time ago, it is now celebrated every
June or July in costume dress. In addition
to the stalls piled high with juicy red cherries,
the event includes a colourful procession,
lipizzan horse show and host of satellite
entertainment.
September 3rd - 4th, 2011
The Rabelaisian customs of the “Saint Antoine au petit cochon" brotherhood in Le Val
date back to the year 1628, when King
Louis XIII granted the villagers the right to
sell the year's first sausage and black sausage to the then-counties of Brignoles, Barjols
and Saint-Maximin.
Le Val was consequently the first local town
authorised to kill its pigs in early September.
To celebrate the new prosperity bestowed
on them by this monopoly, the villagers introduced a yearly sausage fair that was soon
to become famed throughout the region.
Fête du Melon
Cavaillon (Vaucluse)
July 8th and 9th, 2011
Everyone knows that Cavaillon is France's
“melon capital”! This reputed delicacy is
celebrated every year during a festival held
the weekend before Bastille Day.
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
383e Fête de la Saucisse
Le Val (Var)
17
A Culinary Stroll
Féria du Riz
Arles
Christmas markets and fairs
September 9th – 11th, 2011
The Féria du Riz rice fair celebrate Arles'
deeply-entrenched bullfighting traditions. It
is preceded by the Féria de Pâques which
opens the French bullfighting season. Every
evening, aficionados meet up to celebrate
the day's events with a few glasses of sangria
in Arles' 30 or so bodegas, while music by traditional "penas" (brass bands) echoes around
the bullring and throughout the city streets.
Allauch (December 10th – 11th, 2011)
Fête de la Courge
Rians (Var)
October 8th – 9th, 2011
Paying tribute to the village's ancient agricultural heritage, Rians' two-day marrow fair
is packed with stands celebrating this valiant
vegetable, and includes not-to-be-missed
culinary and craft demonstrations.
The event is topped with a Biggest Marrow
and Weirdest Marrow competition and also
features various satellite entertainment such
as children's games, street theatre troupes
and weight-guessing competitions!
Cœur de Chocolat
Belgentier (Var)
Held throughout the village streets and
squares, this two-day fair in Belgentier in the
Var is an ode to Chocolate!
The taste bud-tickling programme features
100 chocolate makers from throughout the
Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region, come
to share their passion for their job with the
general public through a series of chocolatemaking demonstrations and free tasting
sessions.
Information: www.coeurchocolat.com
Fête des Soupes
Vaison-la-Romaine (Vaucluse)
You've got to eat up your soup if you want
to take part in this delightful heritage fair held
in October in Vaison-la-Romaine! The participating towns each submit around 15
soups to the jury, whose pick is then entered
for the grand prize. Simply heart-warming...
For over a decade now, thousands of visitors
have been rubbing shoulders at this market's
120 or so stands, where local craftsmen
and producers show off their latest candles,
decorative items, “santon” figurines, crib
scenes, earthenware, nougats, "calisson"
candies, foie gras and truffles. Also featuring
a Provencal nativity scene, Christmas Eve
celebration and traditional shepherd's procession, Allauch's Christmas celebrations
last throughout the month of December.
Maison du Tourisme
04 91 10 49 20
http://tourisme.allauch.com
Arles Provence Prestige
(November 24th – 27th, 2011)
Much awaited every year, the prestigious Provence Prestige fair headlines 150 hand-picked
exhibitors, all originating from Provence, 3,500
square metres of stands, a relaxation area
and 4 eateries, all in an enchanting, fairytale
setting, brimming with the magic of Christmas.
Palais des Congrès
Avenue 1ère division France Libre
13200 Arles
04 90 99 08 08
(December 16th – 18th, 2011)
Petit Marché du Gros Souper, Foire aux
Santons et Créateurs. This three-day event,
where you can pick up all kinds of Christmas
treats ranging from the ingredients for the
traditional Christmas Eve dinner to “santon”
figurines used to animate Provence's nativity
scenes, also includes a Sunday evening
firework display.
Place de la République
Office du Tourisme
04 90 92 05 22
www.saintremy-de-provence.com
Beaumes de Venise
(December 12th, 2011)
Veillée Calendale. Held in the picturesque
village of Beaumes de Venise, reputed
throughout the world for its Muscadet
wines, this delightful heritage Christmas
event revolves around Provence's “Veillée
Calendale” Christmas Eve celebrations and
includes tasting of the typical 13 desserts.
The evening is topped with traditional songs
and dances.
Price: Adults: €15 – Children: €8.
Place du Marché
Centre Culturel
04 90 62 94 39
www.ot-beaumesdevenise.com
Lorgues (November 22nd, 2011)
Provencal Christmas Market at the luxurious
Château de Berne. Held inside the cellar,
this magical and friendly Christmas market
features around 20 craftsmen specializing in
refined jewellery, books on Provence, novel
earthenware creations, personalised household linen, tableware and small decorative
items... without forgetting such gastronomic
classics as pâtés, foie gras, preserves, honeys,
jams, gingerbread and quince jelly. Visitors will
also be able to sample Provence's famous
“13 desserts” served on Christmas Eve. Opening times: 10 a.m. - 7 p.m.
Christmas markets and “santon” figurine
fairs are held in Marseille and Aix from late
November to December 31st.
Château de Berne
Route de Salernes
83510 Lorgues
04 94 60 43 60
www.chateauberne.com
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
St Rémy de Provence
18
A Culinary Stroll
Culinary calendar
Légumes
Fruits
Terroir
Aromates
January
Rice
Truffle
Parsley
Rosemary
February
Rice
Truffle
Parsley
Rosemary
March
Lamb
Honey
Rice
Parsley
Rosemary
Lamb
Honey
Rice
Parsley
Rosemary
Sage
April
Garlic
Chard
May
Garlic
Aubergine
Green asparagus
Chard
Melon
Nectarine
Peach
Plum
Tomato
Banon goat's
cheese
Honey
Basil
Tarragon
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
Sage
June
Garlic
Violet artichoke
Aubergine
Green asparagus
Chard
Courgette
Sweet pepper
Cherry
Strawberry
Melon
Nectarine
Peach
Plum
Tomato
Banon goat's
cheese
Honey
Basil
Shallot
Tarragon
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
Sage
Thyme
July
Garlic
Violet artichoke
Aubergine
Chard
Courgette
Sweet pepper
Pumpkin
Apricot
Cassis
Cherry
Strawberry
Redcurrant
Melon
Tangerine
Peach
Plum
Tomato
Almond
Banon goat's
cheese
Honey
Basil
Shallot
Tarragon
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
Thyme
(...)
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
19
A Culinary Stroll
Culinary calendar
Légumes
Fruits
Terroir
Aromates
August
Garlic
Violet artichoke
Aubergine
Chard
Marrow
Courgette
Sweet pepper
Pumpkin
Apricot
Cassis
Cherry
Fig
Strawberry
Redcurrant
Melon
Mirabelle plum
Tangerine
Peach
Plum
Tomato
Almond
Spelt
Honey
Basil
Shallot
Tarragon
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
Thyme
September
Violet artichoke
Aubergine
Chard
Marrow
Courgette
Sweet pepper
Pumpkin
Quince
Fig
Strawberry
Redcurrant
Melon
Mirabelle plum
Tangerine
Peach
Plum
Grape
Tomato
Almond
Spelt
Honey
Olive
Rice
Basil
Shallot
Tarragon
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
October
Chard
Marrow
Sweet pepper
Pumpkin
Quince
Fig
Strawberry
Redcurrant
Tangerine
Plum
Grape
Tomato
Almond
Spelt
Honey
Olive
Rice
Basil
Shallot
Tarragon
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
November
Marrow
Tangerine
Spelt
Honey
Olive
Rice
Truffle
Basil
Tarragon
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
December
Marrow
Tangerine
Rice
Olive
Truffle
Parsley
Rosemary
Savory
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
20
A Culinary Stroll
2010-2011 Top Gastronomic Addresses
The two major food guides offer a good
overview of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur's
top gastronomic addresses.
GuiMichelin Guide:
The Michelin Guide, renamed the Red Guide
since 2003, is a gastronomy and hotel guide
created in the early 20th century by the Michelin
tyre company. It is now one of the world's
most famous food guides.
3 stars
Le Petit Nice
Marseille
Chef : Gérard Passedat
Proudly bearing the title of Marseille's first
3-star restaurant, Le Petit Nice opened in
1917 and has since been run by several
generations of the same family. Set in a neoGreek villa on the Marseille coast road, this
seafood restaurant is now masterfully steered
by chef Gérald Passedat.
Le Petit Nice
Anse de Maldormé
13000 Marseille
+33 (0)4 91 59 28 08
2 stars
1 star
Bistrot d’Eygalière Chez Bru
Eygalière
Chef : Wout Bru
Rue de la République
13810 Eygalière
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
La Bastide de Moustiers
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
La Bonne Etape - Château-Arnoux St Auban
L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel
Arles
Chef : Jean-Luc Rabanel
7, Rue des Carmes
13200 Arles
L’Oustau de Beaumanière
Les Baux de Provence
Chef : Jean-André Charial
Val d’Enfer
13520 Les Baux de Provence
La Bastide de Capelongue
Bonnieux
Chef : Edouard Loubet
Les Claparèdes - Chemin des Cabanes
84480 Bonnieux
Le Monte Cristo
Le Castellet
Chef : Christophe Bacquié
3001 Route des Hauts de Camps
83 330 le Castellet
Restaurant Faventia
Tourrettes
Chef : Philippe Jourdin
D 56
83440 Tourrettes
La Pinède
Saint Tropez
Chef : Arnaud Donckele
Plage de la Bouillabaisse
83990 Saint Tropez
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
Bouches-du-Rhône
La Cabro d’Or - Les Baux de Provence
La Chassagnette - Sambuc
La Maison de Bournissac - Palud des Noves
La Maison Jaune - Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
La Table de Sébastien - Istres
La Table de Ventabren - Ventabren
La Villa Madie - Cassis
L’Epuisette - Marseille
Le Cilantro - Arles
Le Clos de la Violette - Aix-en-Provence
Restaurant Marc de Passario
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Restaurant Peron - Marseille
Restaurant Pierre Reboul - Aix-en-Provence
Var
Auberge des Fontaines d’Aragon
Montauroux
Chez Bruno - Lorgues
Restaurant Eric Maio - Montauroux
Hostellerie Bérard - La Cadière-d’Azur
Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle - La Celle
La Rastègue - Bormes-les-Mimosas
Le Mas du Langoustier - Porquerolles
Les Chênes Verts - Tourtour
Hostellerie Les Gorges de Pennafort - Callas
La Villa Belrose - Gassin
Vaucluse
Auberge La Fenière - Lourmarin
Restaurant Christian Etienne - Avignon
La Mirande - Avignon
La Petite Maison - Cucuron
Le Grand Pré - Roaix
Le Moulin à Huile - Vaison-la-Romaine
Le Pré du Moulin - Sérignan-du-Comtat
Le Saule Pleureur - Monteux
Le Vivier - L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Les Bories - Gordes
Le Phébus - Joucas
21
A Culinary Stroll
2010-2011 Top Gastronomic Addresses (more)
Gault&Millau 2011 :
Created by food critics Henri Gault (19292000) and Christian Millau, the Gault&Millau
was first published in 1969, initially in the
shape of an innovative monthly gastronomy
magazine, then a guide.
Gault&Millau is now one of the world's most
influential food guides.
Its ratings (1 to 5 chef's hats), are based on
both food quality and setting.
The guide also awards annual Cook of the
Year and Young Talent prizes.
In 2011, Provencal chef Edouard Loubet
from Bastide de Capelongue was elected
Cook of the Year 2011 in recognition of his
exceptional cuisine.
Other establishments
awarded “4 toques” ( Gault&Millau
chef's hats) in Provence-AlpesCôte d'Azur
Bastide de Capelongue
4 toques
Les Claparèdes
Chemin des Cabanes
84480 Bonnieux
L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel
7, Rue des Carmes
13200 Arles
L’Oustau de Beaumanière
Val d’Enfer
13520 Les Baux de Provence
Le Petit Nice
Anse de Maldormé
13000 Marseille
La Pinède
Plage de la Bouillabaisse
83990 Saint Tropez
Le Monte Cristo
3001 Route des Hauts de Camps
83330 le Castellet
T/+33 (0)4 91 56 47 00
22

A Culinary Stroll - Espace presse tourisme

Transcription

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