1962 | 2012 - vicedomini

Transcription

VICEDOMINI
RANIA LAURA DOROTEA KIRSTY ROSALIND ANNE
CHRISTINA IRMA SILVIAB ISABELLA AMALIE JULIETTA
SONIA CHARMIAN HELENE TAMARA CAMILLA AUDE
CLAIRE-ANNE THU ROSALIND KAREN ELLIE JANINE
CRISTEL DOROTHEE CHRISTINEP MARGARITA SYBILLE
PIPPA JULIETTE KATE GRACE VANESSAM FLORENCE
ELODIE ALEXANDRA CAROLINE AZIA ALEXANDRAP
UNNI VANESSA CLAUDIA MAILY ANNA ELISABETH
GRAZIELLA ALYA SABRINA EMMANUELLE NADJA
KARINE CLAIRE ALEXANDRA MARTA NORAK SASKIA
MARIELLA ANASTASIA CLARINA ADELAIDE MARIA
DANIELA ANDREINA PIA STACEY DONAH MARIE-HELENE
MARIONG SABRINAP ANDREA YASMA LUISA ROSIE
MARIANNE SILVIAT GIUSY MARA ERICA TANIA LISSY
SUZANNE MARINAW STEPHANIE DOMINIQUE
GARANCE MIKAELA JOY CARMEN VIKTORIA MIRANDA
OMBRETTA JULIE NATALYA BARBARA AYSE’ GRACE
LIBANA AMANDINE TAMAR ALEXA ERIN NORAS
ALEXANDRAS VELVET BARBRA ALEXANDRAW CARINA
LUCIANA LISAT ALESSANDRAB MARIECHRISTINE GIOIA
ANA JULIA DONAB MARIE-LAURE PASCALE GIULIA
SABRINAB DANINA BLANCA WANDA MARIANA SUM
JOCELYNE SABINE GIULIA LAURENCE SONIAT
RAFFAELLA EVELYNE CATHERINE JOSIE HELENE
FATIMA LUDMILLA BRIGITTE MURIEL DEBORAH OLIVIA
CIPOLLINA LIBBY ALIX MARY SUE SALLY CAPUCINE
VALENTINA SIRIN MAILY MARIAPACE ANNABELLE
GRAINNE NAZANINE AIMEE’ FAYE JANE ALEXA TESSA
LOUISE LAURA LEONE EVAD HORTENSE FLAVIA
BIANCA VIVI LIBBY SABINA LINDA PILAR PAOLA NICKY
AMORYN ALEXANDRAC SILVIAW AMANDA SILVIAW
ANJA CATHERINE ROBERTA PEGGY MARIONK
IRENE SANDRA DULCE PILAR NATHALIE PATRICIA
JASMINE SHELLY PIA ZEINA BARBARAA RAMONA
FIONA DELLA MARIALUISA GABBY ANNEC VERA
MONIQUETHEA SCARLETT VERENA CLELIA ISABELLE
DONATA MORGANE SIOBAN CLAIRE INES ELENA
MAGDALENE MONICAS CONCHITA PATRICIAC
BERNADETTE CONRADA MERCEDES MAGDALENA
FLORA ELLEN SVETLANA REGINA MARIKA DELPHINE
BRIGITTE ROSALBA NURIA ESTEFANIA PAMELA
SOLANGE CLAUDINE ABBY CRISTINA FRANCOISEB
BRITTA NAZY MONIA RAPHAELLE MARYAM MASHA
TAMARA LISAB MARYSE EVAJ MASHA CAVAN MIRUNA
RAPHAELLE EVAF MIA BENEDETTA ALESSANDRAD
CECILE MARIASELLA PAOLA MAHA GIOVANNA MJ
BELLA ZEYNEP CELINE SOPHIEM PUJA MANUELA
LILIANE ROXANNE EUGENIA DELIA MARIATERESA
KIMBERLY MURIEL VIKTORIA NADINE NATASCHA
GEORGINA MICHELE J O A N A FIAMMETTA ANNA
MONICA CHIARA DOROTHEE ALICE VIRGINIA ARLETTE
SOUMAYA MORELLA DILARA LORI BARI ROBYN
DONATELLA LUCY JENNAN ELEONORE XILIA VALERIE
DOMITILLA DALIT SHAYDA DANIELLE KIKO NATALYA
MARIETTA MISHA ADY ALEXANDRAK ADINA AELISA
EMMA PHAEDRA ANNE-MARIE DANIELAB NICOLE
CINDY CATARINA DINA MELTEM CONSTANCE DIANE
NAZANINE CLAUDIA DIANA ALEXANDRAC CHARLIE
ELYSSA ALLISON THERESA EMILY BIBI LISA MELINDA
CINDY TRACEY LOURDES NADA DENISE ALICE CARINA
1962
2012
50 YEARS
OF FASHION
THROUGH
THE CENTURY
FOREWORD
To introduce a casual spirit into couture and create
a garment that transcends time is the most difficult
challenge in fashion. This book celebrates these
efforts, the ideas and enthusiasm of the many
artists who helped Vicedomini and all the inspirational
that motivated the creation of something innovative,
yet timeless and with an easy elegance. The
technical struggle to work with delicate materials
and turn them into sophisticated garments, to
make a piece fit as perfectly as a second skin, is
something you cannot escape in fashion, at any
stage. Why do we all work on the last seam, or
stress about how to correct the fall of the hem
on the mannequin up to the last possible second
prior to a show or a photoshoot? Why can’t we
be always on time like bankers? And why do we
endure impossible dramas about every single
collection that comes out?! We think we have
seen everything and we are prepared to face
any trial, but there is always a unexpected surprise
around the corner that makes us never rest on
our laurels : it looks the fashion world needs to
overcome flawlessness, and that is addictive to
any designer, it keeps your adrenaline high and
keeps you going.
The answer is easy : the human contribution, the
artisan skills of a very intricate chain of widelyscattered people, who need to work t o g e t h e r
just like a beautiful piece of fine jewelry. There
is nothing more enthralling than the power of a
qualified hand, whose craft has been passed
on for generations, willing to develop something
perfectly beautiful, gracefully finished and , not least,
in line with the designer’s vision. That is why the
Made in Italy is unequalled in fashion circles:
anybody can copy, but nobody can create and
invent as they do, with the same precision, the
same “savoir faire”, the same LOVE, the same way
they overcome sartorial challenges. I would never
trade my artisan teams scattered the world over,
for anything : tradition is indeed very important.
Sometimes I am amazed how the satisfaction
of reaching a certain result overtakes the money
they make. This has taught me that working side
by side with people driven by passion and tenacity
is priceless, no matter the financial result . To be
able to understand this mechanism, a designer
needs to gather a lot of experience getting know
every single step in the procedure, from the row
cloth to the finished garment . Most important, it is
imperative for a director to have been through all
stages to deserve the respect of the people who
work for him. I have carried boxes, organized
shipments, written invoices, driven across entire
countries for thousands of kilometers before even
thinking I could take on my family’s adventure.
To reach affordable and wearable luxury is a kind
of a science : a woman dressed impeccably is
bound to be remembered Coco Chanel said :
“Beauty comes when fashion succeeds .
Fashion passes, style remains ”.
INTRODUCTION
Italy has always symbolized high-end luxury and
fashion, along with dedication to workmanship
and commitment to beauty and style. How did
a small family-owned brand manage to keep its
head above water throughout the century, after
the whole fashion world went international?
A pope as an ancestor, a valorous colonel awarded
the honour of a state funeral as a father, and an
aristocratic background gave Giuseppe Vicedomini
the lineage to stand as a patriarch in the truest sense
of the word for more than five decades and
through the Second World War.
FAMILY HISTORY
Giuseppe Vicedomini was born in the early1920s
and pursued a classical education, getting a
degree in economics . It was common for those
families at the time to also actively join political
parties and enlist for a military career: he followed
his father’s passion but quickly understood his
destiny would have been different and , immediately
after the war, wanted to get back to the world of
commerce . He found an opening through personal
contacts in women’s fashion, initially as a
technician : he would study t h e p r o d u c t i o n
time slots and machinery techniques to maximize
the fabrication speed and the quality of the final
garments. He was in touch with skilful tailors and
quickly learnt the rules of fashion. Whilst this served
his immediate needs ,he then set himself up as a
small agency distributing famous brands , such
as Dorian, Comber and Diala . Bi-annual trips as an
agent driving across Italy to forge new and
important client a n d r e t a i l relationships had
become his main profession in the late1950’s.
By 1962, Vicedomini’s life was to take a different
pathIn
. a fast-growing society, among an élite who
dominated the art and cultural world and was
eager for innovation, he was introduced to designer
Lino Pellizzoni. He was immediately enthralled
with his style and drawings. When a smart
businessman teams up with a talented designer
you can only expect a dazzling result.Thus the
iconic printed “tubino” was born: just two simple
stitches on a straight dress, with incredible and
colorful patterns, gracefully printed on a stretch
jersey or a thick silk became something very
special, something every woman desperately
wanted, a must-have of the1960’s . Although this
spontaneous yet simple masterpiece sold out
everywhere, as Giuseppe immediately placed it
with his existing clients, he felt it was time to step
forward and create his own label.
The first Vicedomini collection was a capsule of
twelve pieces : a mixture of hand-embroidered
tops and separates, also illustrated in this book.
At t he t im e t his w as gro u n d break in g fo r
ready-to-wear.
Every season the two leaders’ ideas and creativity
would grow into bigger collections: new styles
including different pieces, jackets, blouses, skirts
and suits amazingly outsmarted the “tubonic”
dress, using the most luxurious material available
on the market. Georgette, silk, chiffon, velvet : these
are the tools of their trade , but it is their expert skill
and their eye for detail - almost a sixth sense - that
made the brand so coveted so quickly. Production
was commissioned to independent artisans .
After a few samples were sent to Harrods, the
brand was officially created and Giuseppe was
ready to devote his life to his dream project.
He broke the partnership with Pellizzoni, and set
up in a beautiful office and showroom in Milan.
The most prestigious address for those years- yet
not far from the building he was born in Via Durini was Largo Augusto, entirely built by Mussolini.
Grandiose but sober, black and white contrasted
with an austere absence of classic decorations,
the big marble slabs were the outside shell of a
hugely stylish salon, so typical of the 1970’s :
ice-grey carpets with large mirrors everywhere
and the obligatory leather sofas .
“When I drive past I still have shivers, I spent so
many exciting afternoons there as a child . The
picture of myself in there remains so vivid , it is like
colours stick to my mind on still images…
I always wanted to go to Daddy’s office after
school. A little girl running through the long
corridors , or playing the secretary while typing on
those old-fashioned typewriters . I would hide in
the models “camerino”: I made it my private
house, to me it looked so enormous! and see
elegant retailers coming in to place orders,
statuesque mannequins, glamorous socialites
popping in for a drink (and a cigarette. . . clouds of
smoke are my worst teenage nightmare!).”
At the time, high fashion only revolved around a
few important names. One of those was Silvano
Malta, THE most sought-after designer.
A primadonna , a trend-setter, the most handsome
man you can ever imagine, wearing long leopard
furs with trainers, always late, sometimes even
showing up a day later but always preceded by
his reputation of impeccable style, mostly ahead
of his time. Giuseppe, whose flamboyant signature
became the trademark logo for the brand itself,
was still in charge of all his own prints and his
reputation was based on custom-made designs,
exclusively produced for him at Luciantex,
a prestigious textile factory in Como.
An optimistic man by nature, Giuseppe was clever
to realize that by having a wholesale depot in the
basement he could fill orders very fast. The stock
was always over-ordered so business was
booming. As this was a truly family-run operation,
his brother Federico and his two elder children
Alessandro and Eugenia joined forces to develop
the brand , conseguently the decision to have
an owned unit of production, and opening a
factory in Vicenza came quite naturally and
spontaneously.
With every detail being taken care of under one
roof (the dying of the fabrics, cutting, sizing and
patterning) , costs were kept under control and
production was at its maximum. A combination to
ensure an interesting profit and larger quantities
to be made at best .
“My father’s relationship with his qualified workers
was exceptional. He was trusted , respected and
truly loved. Some of the head tailors still go and
visit him for his birthday nowadays . It seems
almost they still want to pay a tribute to his
fairness and generosity . ”
Constant source for the gossip magazines,
especially with the arrival of the beautiful model
Orietta, later to become Mrs Vicedomini, the brand
became stronger to the point . Where, on press
days, there would be fights over a simple blouse.
She was a finalist for Miss Italy and when Giuseppe
met her, it was love at first sight . He hired her as
the house model and then they got married in
1973.
In 1974 , with their last daughter Alessandra’s
arrival, the function of the factory was now complete.
Malta, naturally a genius who could work even
20 hours a day, ensured the growth of the brand
and maintained its position up to the early 1980’s
when a capsule collection of bridal wear became
a huge part of the Vicedomini’s world. Swirling
georgettes with delicate flowery patterns or
hand-embroidered with pearls and crystals
became necessary musts, incessantly covered
by Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.
Sadly, a unfortunate snowfall in 1984, known as
the worst disaster of the century, caused the
biggest damage to the factory the family could
ever imagine to endure. As a result of the weight
of the snow, the factory roof collapsed and most
of the machinery, archives, fabric stock and
collections, along with ongoing production were
lost or irrecoverable.
It has been emotionally very tough for Giuseppe
to accept such a big setback after so many years
of success . He was about to retire and suddenly
needed to take care of his wife after a very bad
car accident in the 1990’s, which not only marked
Alessandra’s teenage years quite severely, but
put the whole brand’s destiny at stake. A pause to
consider how to manage such a dramatic change
was necessary, and with the wisdom of hindsight,
it was the best thing to do.
Alessandra, excellent student with a lot of
ambition, combined school and working for the
family as a model during those years, and was
already creating a few simple basics knits to
complement her father’s suits. The transition to
the full luxury knit collection we know today has
been smooth and came naturally over the
years, thanks to her varied experiences as a
model in the fashion world for over a decade
with the best known Italian designers .
ARCHIVES
A quick revival of the 1970’s glamour and
a glance to the 1980’s through this special
gathering of original vintage pictures. For
Giuseppe Vicedomini, the key to success
was to be found in the fabric choice first,
whether it was commissioned-printed or
embellished with precious stones rigorously
hand sewed one by one.
A simple tweak to an existing technique,
maybe inspired from an earlier century
breathtaking style is sometime all it takes
to freshen up an outfit. While the jersey “tubino”
enjoyed unparalleled celebrity at a very
early stage, the need for a constant update
brought the brand to focus on swirling
and light-weight crêpe de chine cocktail
dresses. So if the trend was looking for an
answer to cocktail-chic, main editors were
making Vicedomini the new go-to label.
RETROSPECTIVE
PARIS 2012
What makes a great fashion image is the ability to
celebrate aesthetics , combining the pure
immortalization of eternal femininity and an attention
to details and colors with a touch of originality.
This sublimely-curated selection of each decade,
highlighting the very pieces which marked the
“époques” from the 1960’s until today, is stunningly
photographed by Deborah Anderson and stars
top model Julie Ordon.
“I could have not found a more perfect icon to
deeply capture the brand’s allure and style . She
evokes shimmering elegance and timeless
beauty, she is a true model in the very sense of the
word , the most exquisite muse a designer could
dream of. She is simple and her smile made my
creative team overcome the many challenges of
a complicated production , on a wet and windy
Parisian day. Deborah managed to take her ageless style to a new level of desirability. She brought
the house into a new era,sublimizing a new
lifestyle conception and the desire for perfection
every woman tends to fullfill today .”
Fast becoming known for “the” must-have dress
in personalized printed jersey or luscious silks,
Vicedomini’s collections have always made a
name of themselves for being simple in design
but utterly lush in details. Silk-bow tops, tied at
the waist , are embellished with lavish hand-embroideries, while the velvet and satin duchesse
long gowns have gained a coveted reputation.
As we continue with fashion evolution through
the 1970’s and 1980’s, this flashback showcases new vibrant hues and candy-colour dresses
dyed in flower prints with a unique twist on the
house traditional heritage-focused direction,
paired with stronger color geometric shapes
highlighting scenic handicrafts of the “mad about
sparkle” era .
The modern projection to the new century
features “plissé soleil” skirts and classic pinstriped
blazers . To get the right cut and ensure a modern
look, you can team classic gilded lace vintage
pieces alongside with new knitted lurex tops,
as we di d to emphasi ze the unparal l el ed
reminiscence of our Place Vendôme adventure.
The latest textural mix of leather tweeds and knits
with fur and glimmering silver is now globally
recognized. Sleek shapes and sophistication
compete for attention in a compelling misture of
modernity and practicality.
How to stay chic in the cold .
The iconic cashmere vests, developed
and revisited every season in different
shades with hand-dyed matching furs ,
looks as good out on city streets
as they do in more glamorous settings
and, not last, leisure’s .
Featured on the front page of
Vogue’s blog in November 2011
it remains the “indispensable” basic
that will take you from dawn to dusk .
No wonder why it has been the
piece who revived the international
interest for the brand . Addictive .
“Vicedomini is the ‘go to’ label for me
year around . From the beginning they
have got everything right from basic
knits to the most luxurious of furs .
My wardrobe is stocked full of beautiful
pieces that I pull out year after year.
Alessandra herself couldn’t be a more
perfect ambassador and designer, ever
immaculate and elegant, any woman
who knows her can see her personality
run through every piece in the collection”.
Mariella Tandy, Tatler
“A girl should be two things .
Classy and Faboulous”
Coco Chanel
ALESSANDRA
VICEDOMINI
Daughter to an ambitious man who grew up on
the frontlines of politics and conflicts and to a
mother who had to make her living after the
disasters of the Second World War, the portrait of
Alessandra Vicedomini appears a fiercely
independent woman who is now happily
married, raising two boys and combining the tough
businesswoman template to Prince Charmings
perfect spouse’s image. She takes us behind the
scenes of her exciting life to examine the path
which has shaped the history of her working life
up to today, where she is fully responsible of the
brand management, of the collection designs,
the marketing strategies and the relations with
the medias.
The way she traces her childhood captures the
nostalgic projection of a woman-to-be which
outgrew the child at an early stage. Her youth
informs every picture she styled and imprinted
in her mind, by seeking the aesthetical and the
inner beauty in everything and everybody.
Born in Milan in 1974 she was nursed by white
and grey - uniformed nannies, sometimes too
austere and boring to even smile at the baby.
Always academically advanced in her classes,
she grewup as a live-out pupil at highly regarded
Noun’s Institute : she awarded a diploma in languages
with excellent grades and applied to Law University.
“By virtue of a sense of justice that is still haunting
me, I wanted to become one of those angry
criminal lawyers, throwing murderers and
psychopaths in jail. I soon understood that was
not what fate would have led my adventurous
life to.”
Her beginnings as a model after winning a few
of the most eligible Italian beauty contests , had to
follow the standard procedures for breaking into
the fashion world. While her mother carefully was
handing her down all the “mannequin” tips, she
was scouted by an agent and started her first
beauty editorials and small runaway shows
around the age of 14. “ I must have walked miles
of that green and white check slippery marble
corridor of mine, trying and learn how to catwalk
on heels and with books piled on my head . It
was so frustrating to see how easy it was for my
mum to roll and turn around with such a grace ,
against the image of the scattered books on the
floor fallen a thousand times…! How do you do
it?! - I kept on asking - and she patiently answered
“It will come naturally my darling. Keep on training .”
Unlike today, when everything is done for them, a
model back then had to do everything herself : style
her h air, do h er ma ke-u p, bring her shoes
sometimes in every color. So being a “professional” was synonymous of impeccable self-management, uncompromising punctuality and consistent
reliability. And that was certainly what led her to
work for many established designers while still in
her twenties. It was not that easy to be
hardworking and focused, while keeping your
grades high when you are almost alone. E x c e p t
her beloved grandmother who is still very present
in her life, Alessandra had to give up spending
times with her parents who were too busy traveling
and working hard to develop the brand. More
Saturdays afternoon Disney movies and a serious
videogames addiction marked her childhood
rather than fun play dates or cool kids’ birthday
parties. Always intrigued by being among adults,
she spent many years playing boys’ sports like
basketball and volleyball, she learnt to play cards ,
and very soon she ferociously defended her
hard-owned independence against third parties
who disapproved of her precocious debut in the
working world. Plus the struggle to carry a burden
like the atrocity of her mother’s car accident when
she was only 15 has marked a significant change
in her way of conceiving life in general, making
her assert to independence at every opportunity
more and more strongly.
Despite these tough experiences, Alessandra’s
description of her childhood is so warm and sweet it
reads like a classic children’s tale. Her life in Milan,
like most of well-born kids at the time, over passed
the flippancy of getting in and out leggings and
beautiful tailor clothes, which she could already
admire with a different eye. She followed the
daily developments in the art world and found
various passions, like Milan cathedral’s myriad spires
made of immaculate white marble, the massive
gold Madonna statue on the top, the ancient
paving paths in the center which she didn’t want
the cars to damage, and the classic arches and
Roman columns scattered all round town. The
most inspiring fashion capital has indeed hidden
treasures most people do not know about. She
recalls the beautiful horse carriages she would
see on Sundays on her way to Mass, while she
was systematically stopping to admire Leonardo’s
“Last Supper” wall painting, like it was always the
first time. “At the time of course the entrance was
free and the place was not kept like a relic with
tourists of any kind queuing for hours to have a
quick glance. The colors were so subdued yet
intense, perfectly balanced in every shade, the
drapes so impeccably drawn and the perspectives
so meticulously respected, it was impossible not
to shiver facing such a masterpiece. It is a real
privilege one has to treasure to live in a major
European capital with recognized world-renowned
art masterpieces. We even have a completely
preserved Four Tower enormous castle, with
proper drawbridges and a extended park in the
heart of the city, near the boulevards and the
Arches built by Napoleon to reproduce the Paris
urbanization”.
She keeps diaries with dense observations on
love stories, famous pop singers and actors, in
the context of their life events, and handwrites
hundreds of letters on scented paper with glittery
pens to everybody in the world . At the same time
she gravitates towards beautiful models like the
Japanese cartoons telling stories about pictureperfect girls with an intricate destiny heading to
find their happiness. “With a literary formation
like mine you cannot get used to a computerized/
sms based life...it diminishes our human
dimension, but I understand it is a due tribute to
technology and you are a freak if you don’t get
familiar with the latest tool…and thank God
somebody before me invented all this! That is
why sometimes I find myself like a geek behind
my computer, browsing and looking for a
brainstorm, to encounter something unexpected
that dazzles me, all kind of sources of inspiration
are there, behind the screens.”
A solitary young heroine , today demure and softly
spoken, she likes to treasure her lows in life and
mix them with the highs: she is a contemporary
Diana ( the war Goddess or the Princess?) with
a iconic and stylish Sophia Loren reminiscence
shining through .
“If you work in fashion you are an ambassador of
beauty, health, and style, and that has to go with
ethics, love and charisma .That is why you need
a true balance in life. I found mine very early as I
got married at 23 ”.
To know fashion from both sides of a runaway
has not withheld her for being a passionate
supporter of the 100% Made in Italy craftsmanship,
never more so than in today’s global world of
discounted imports, nor does she hide the fear
before distilling a trend for the coming season. The
Vicedomini woman is the one I relate to when I
design : she may be professionally busy, and she
is a mother and a wife . She creates and affirms
herself by a choice of adornment and arrays:
when she walks in, I want her to capture the entire
room’s attention thanks to her personal strokes
of originality. It is impossible to ignore a glamour
goddess especially if she keeps innovating her
look and spreads good energy around her. She
needs to star her own lifestyle story. Of course,
getting the right cut and ensuring a modern look
at the same time is not easy: I am trying to create
a fashion with pieces that fall into place but look
completely effortless. To me, this is called
“affordable luxury”, in which inspired designs change
something useful into a delectable object of desire.
2008
FW
Less is more.
What marked this year’s success is the launch
of the globally recognized “gilet” in double-ply
cashmere with a simple yet lavish fur trim. Just
one piece that made it happen quick and easy.
.An important knit project always starts with the
yarn and immediately you get inspired to refine
the piece with all sort of embellishments . “If you
are sure about who supplies you with the best
quality materials available on the market, you have
already solved half of your problems ” says
Alessandra. “To me, basics will always be the key
in your wardrobe. Create unique, refined pieces
so they can constitute a whole outfit by themselves is my d a y - t o - d a y f a s h i o n s t a t e m e n t ” .
T h e m o s t recognized multi-brand boutiques
chose to carry this fresh combination of knit,
representing sportswear, and fur, representing
the most wanted luxury accessory. For the woman
who likes to move in her clothes, this vest is certainly
the MUST HAVE go-anywhere item. “You want
to be comfortable and you want to look fabulous :
the perfect look has to take you anywhere, from
morning to evening and I believe this particular one fulfills every woman’s lifestyle needs.
You can keep it in your closet for a long time and
always return to it .”
The eye-catching elegance and the simplicity of
the item, evoking timeless glamorous chic, revived Vicedomini’s reputation for craftsmanship
and polish so that the gilet has become every Fall/
Winter collection basic, revisited every season in
different hues and proportions. A fresh spin on
traditional knitwear.
2009
SS
To be highlighted in the fashion calendars, the
brand strongly needed to take a different
direction and equally attract the market’s attention
with the Spring/Summer looks . The designer’s
addiction to hand-made embroideries has shaped
surprisingly sleek silhouette dresses featured by
major international fashion editors . There are oneshouldered styles, be-dazzled with glitter glamorous
details, backless tops encrusted with gold
paillettes…but the standout piece of the
runaway is the multi-tasking super-thin silk hooded
top with ton-sur-ton sequins appliqués on pockets
and playful elbow patches.
The ability to translate modern ideas into knitted
fabrics, awarded the brand a little corner in
Harrods First Floor Woman Luxury Collections.
“Definitively the most astonishing and fulfilling
occasion of my professional life. My little rack was
finally placed where every designer wants to be. I
was so lucky to be able to work side-by-side with
highly-experienced buyers and I was humbly
but pleasantly surprised to see how they made
themselves extremely accessible and cooperative.
It was so natural to find myself in an eager
learning mood . You can talk to them, they can
lead you to adjust a few details to better fit the final
customer’s needs without compromising your
creativity. They cleverly know what their clients
like. Definitively a different attitude from certain
snobbish old school buying teams I encountered
in the past. An honor for me, a challenge to keep
my spot and definitely a story of prestige,
a dream come true”.
BIKINI
Here comes the sun!
Dazzling one-off pieces in draped lycra and semiprecious stones on metallic thread say it all.
Multi-faceted sequins embroideries paired with
shells and swarovsky stones on bikinis make
heads turn on the beach , and you are wearing
Vicedomini of course.
It is described that each piece is crafted in Italy,
then voyages to India, where it is hand-embroidered
by skilled artisans, before a final return to Italy where
it receives meticulous finish touches.
The eyelet-trim bikini with crochet, shell and sequins
has been awarded as one of the worldwide top
ten masterpieces even created in beachwear.
Bloggers across Europe and renowned
fashionistas through the five continents celebrated
the excellence in detailing and the originality of
this padded bikini conceived in three colorways
only, but strictly produced for a limited edition
distribution.
“To me beachwear is an essential capsule when
you design Spring Summer. You undress on
the beach, but ultimately you show off THAT one
piece you are wearing, more than any other outfit
you slip on the rest of the year!”.
Contemporary and trendy cut-out monokinis with
studs starburst come with those framed with
crystals and turned into the hottest sun-kissed
mermaid must-have.
Girly yet utterly chic, they are fashioned to match
colorful silk kaftans and embellished coverups, not to be missed for poolside glamour
lounging and Riviera getaways.
FW
2010
SS
Vogue stated knitwear designers are changing
the fashion game, often with the help of technology
producing pieces that are intriguing and covetable.
Alongside with super wearable cashmere jackets
and functional trench coats , this year’s inspiration
goes through elegant studies about what madeto-measure fashion can look like in modern times.
Suede styled into kaftans for winter or full skirts,
three-colored striped satin long gowns shaped
into important kimono dresses enhanced softmodeled silhouttes on colorful palettes. Metallic
threads on floral patterns underscore hyperfemininity and an incredible instinct for style.
Shells, crochets and semi-precious stones are
exciting tools to improve the design process and
create excitement when constructing a dress.
Vicedomini spreads distribution through important
retailers across Europe with an excellent percentage
sell-through . From Capri to Porto Cervo, from
Istanbul to Beirut via St Tropez and Palm Beach,
the brand is now a reference in knit excellence
and a great interest to highly influential media.
Totally aligned with the “Homme objet” embodiment
featured by several iconic fashion magazines, this
campaign celebrates the ultimate sexy-chic trend.
In an era dominated by woman’s uprising
independence the images have been centralizing
media controversial opinions.
On one side the ones contemplating the pure
aesthetics today’s woman wants to exude to win
Prince Charming’s attention , on the other side
the ones who think the pursuit of impeccable
physical appearance not only diminishes human
relationship in general, but also throws men on a
lower level as they remain victims of this
irresistible ephemeral game.
A designer chooses by definition to challenge this
impasse. “A woman wants to be beautiful because
she looks for globalized recognition . You need to
capture the essence of today’s woman’s
feelings and enhance her inner beauty through
her appearance. There is nothing worse than
wearing the wrong outfit at the right event or
being down dressed at any occasion. It comes
again to very concept of style: either you have it
or you don’t.
Ralph Lauren says: “Style is very personal. It
has nothing to do with fashion. Fashion is over
quickly, style is for ever”.
That is why I feel my ambassadors are perfectly
tuned with my conception of the day-to-day life.
When they say they always get compliments
when they wear something of mine I feel I
accomplished my mission. I am flattered and
fulfilled but, at the same time, I find myself
caught in a eager escalation to go beyond that
one outfit . I need to create more, something
they cannot deprive themselves of, and that
possibly remains timeless ”. And, in life it is known
opposites attract. That is why, talking about
ambassadors, the choice of male icons
focused on types of men who could firstly
represent what those women want for themselvesspecifically as an object - and secondly who exude
an intense iconic beauty, this time definitively not
so softly.
“Brazilian born model Miro Moreira, latterly most
contended testimonial of big italian labels, came
along by pure coincidence and his face and allure
really caught my attention.It is always a kind of
achievement to discover faces before anybody
else . . . I thought his beauty was utterly unsettling
and quite mysterious: I was delighted the
photographer could freeze the thin line shining
through the game he was playing between boy
and man. The shots remind me about statuesque
classic Gods and warriors, it has been a very
interesting project”.
On an other tone, to enhance the idea of the man
as an object, famous italian TV star Marco Ceriani
played the game as professionally as you could
ever expect. Although the close ups are always,
of course, focused on stunning Estonian model
Raja Lisauskaite,his looks and poses are so perfect
and intense you almost doubt the campaign is
Woman Spring Summer.
RESORT
COLLECTION
“Elegance is the balance between proportion,
emotion and surprise”. Valentino
These three elements harmonically lye in the capsule
Resort Collection born in 2009.
“The sea has always fascinated me an its beauty
needs to be celebrated with a special collection.
I love it also in the winter season, I can’t spend too
much time away from it . . . ”.
It was not planned to produce a separated
collection from the Spring Summer. But one day
Alessandra met by coincidence a charming lady
who could create (by hand of course) unbelievable
embroideries putting together amazing beads,
crystals and delicate threads with such a graceful
savoir faire she couldn’t turn the challenge down.
Easiness suggested by kaftans moving away
from the waist, instead of overly sexy silhouettes
exude lush hyper femininity piece after piece
thanks to the subdued pastel hues of the graphic
glimmering details on hems and necklines on
hems and necklines.
Silk draped tunics create a flaring volume at the
sides of the thighs and match stunning embellished
bikinis , keeping the brand’s course of elegance
and sophistication very high. The Moroccan style
long kaftan with gilded clovers, widely illustrated
in this book, has been the most wanted cruise
item of main European editors .
“She is a one woman powerhouse
and inspiration . If there ever was an
icon, mother and designer that inspired
me to be make being glamourous my
everyday priority, it would be her. She is
effortlessly chic - something immediately
transmitted through both her ready-to-wear
and swimwear collections .
Her cashmere and fur designs are
timeless classics and everyone woman
should treat themselves to at least one
piece of her designs .”
Lily Russo, Grazia Magazine
FW
SS
2011
As it contours the body like no other, stretch
viscose becomes every designers’ most-wanted
yarn to work. This Summer collection focuses on
a triumphant celebration of femininity showcasing
dresses and separates fashioned into tops and
paired with skinny pants. Vicedomini has created
a über-modern approach to the artisanal craft ,
where grown up glamour abounds with striking
black beachwear just out from a Bond movie.
Playing with nude tones , jeweled-colored dresses
take center stage and captivate midnight blue
row stones and hand-finished pave plastrons
glistened with the Mediterranean magic of
cropped mirrors.
Pattern and color are massively important in the
surprisingly sleek silhouettes underscoring
ethereal beauty with a vague sense of sexy
provocation. Based on custom-made exclusive
prints just like the ones her father was used to
work on, croco modern silks make an appearance
in high fashion modern-cut kaftans.
FW
As temperatures drop and the days shorten,
sartorial leanings can often twist your mood for
the season. Suddenly, summer’s refreshing
gelato whooshes out the window and darker
hues descend on closets. Impossible to renounce
cozy textures of cashmere woven with chenille
in a myriad guises : capes, shrugs and collars, new
to this season create show-stopping pieces like
the zipped taupe cat-suit everybody went mad
about.
2012
SS
Inspired by the flawless glamour of film star icons
of the past, this year’s designs spotlight head-turning
pieces cut to fit and flattering the woman’s body.
Dress after dress, it is a veritable celebration of
aesthetics. And with just as much consideration
going into the construction, they are so beautiful as
they comfortably slim the wearer in at the waist ,
these sundresses can easily forgo supportive
lingerie.
“It is important that they feel young, fresh and cool,
but also sophisticated to the point that they can be
worn at work and at any glamorous event in the
world, day or night .”
By borrowing elements and inspirations from her
father’s historical archive, Alessandra has always
made a point of celebrating lace through all
seasons . Emphasized on toile de Jouy prints , or
naturally stretch for everyday T–shirts, lace has
always been synonymous of the brand’s allure.
ПЛАТЬЕ VICEDOMINI;
НАKИДKА ИЗ МЕXА,
J. MENDEL; БОСОHОЖKИ,
FENDI; СЕPЬГИ,
GENEVIEVE JONES.
FW
The winter evolution of macramé or chantilly
mirrors a picture-perfect frozen wonderland forest
and blends in with different materials , giving the
designer a credit for the control on the shapes
and the choice of combinations . Timelessness
constantly comes across the craft on hand knitted
coats and woven double face padded vests.
Flessage dresses belted with wide skin wraps lift
interesting new technical developments, but the
masterpiece remains an off the shoulder knit
sirene dress made of the softest shimmery yarn
ever discovered. A sparkling textured second
skin with a reminiscent flowery touch injects the
concept of style in a new concept of easy-towear evening collection.
They are luxe enough for Pharohos and Queens,
those accustomed to an excess so fabulously
wretched they don’t need an other piece but …
cannot miss the opportunity of wearing the truly
iconic best-seller of the season.
CATWALK
MAKE UP
COUTURE
THE FINAL
2013
SS
For a brand like Vicedomini, every season the
manufacturing level becomes more intricate and
challenging. Using the latest machine techniques,
designer styles sheer geometric nylon patterns
on clever billowing gowns that swing between
glamour and simplicity . She creates highly complex
dresses , carefully and exclusively made in one
panel that is knitted with a sangallo lace appearance
for ultramodern cocktail dresses you can admire
here as the strongest pattern of the season.
The cut-out dresses flaunt an undeniably
avantgarde edge. Catwalk begins with a symphony
of navy and noir gowns and dresses, then gives
way to a series of multi-colored striped looks with
an exquisite palette of pastel colors mixed with
strong white or black. Centered around clean-cut
resort pieces, richly crafted, fine metallic trims on
hues of fine copper and glazed silver are cleverly
interwoven with colorful crêpe-de-chine motifs
on white embroidered thick cotton. Reaching
out to the Asian and South American market, the
brand keeps its exclusive distribution to an élite
who wants to transform the client’s seasonal
necessity into an epitome of renovation in the
millennium woman’s ultrachic closet .
CHARITIES
Wh e n yo u w o rk in fa sh io n yo u d e a l w it h
beauty and glamour everyday, but you cannot
forget there is an intrinsic human component
beyond it. The inner part of beauty is deeply
related to our hearts.
“It has been quite spontaneous for me to organize
small charity fundraisings related to my events
or photo shoots. To be surrounded by wonderful
women and brand’s supporters who understand
the importance of sharing and helping
l o c a l foundations has been a motivation to
work harder. I met interesting people involved
in different organizations, the ones closest to my
heart are related to children’s hospitalization and
cancer research .”
In 2008 , twelve attractive women from Geneva
and London posed together for a stunning portrait
calendar. A very simple black background to
highlight the very beauty behind a pure shot. All
girls involved in the project actively worked to
distribute calendars and also contributed to find
sponsors to cover costs . “I was deeply touched
by their will to cooperate beyond the fun of the
shoot ”. All funds raised went to support a cancer
foundation.
In 2011 a very close friend offered Alessandra
the possibility to host a beautiful fashion show in
London at the Royal Automobile Club to support
British Red Cross. A delightful afternoon tea set
up with fresh white flowers and delicate feather
butterflies motivated 120 incredibly generous
women to support New Zealand’s devastating
earthquake, as well as Libyan families needing
emergency provisions after fleeing their country.
In 2012 a joyful final catwalk with children wearing
clown red noses surprised the spectators who
could anonymously make a small donation for
Theodora Foundation .
“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses
only. Fashion is in the skies, in the street : fashion
has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is
happening ”. Coco Chanel
FRIENDS
WITH ANNA MOLINARI, ROSSELLA TARABINI AND THE BLUMARINE TEAM
WITH GIORGIO ARMANI AND KIRSTY BERTARELLI
ARMANI
WITH TAMARA BECKWITH, GOGA ASHKENAZI, CAROLINE STANBURY AND HOLLY VALANCE
WITH CLAUDIA RAVNBO, CLAIRE VASFI AND CHRISTINA JUFFALI
I. CAROLINE SCHEUFELE
II. WITH KIRSTY BERTARELLI
III. EMILIE BOIRON, MISS SUISSE
IV. CHRISTINA ESTRADA JUFFALI
V. PRINCESS CAMILLA BOURBON SICILE
VI. KIRSTY BERTARELLI
VII. ILARY WESTON
VIII. ILARY BLASI
IX. WITH GREG GORMAN, STEVE MC CURRY, WILLIAM KLEIN, AMEDEO TURELLO
HOLGER ECKSTEIN AND JEAN-MARIE ZIMMERMAN
X. WILLIAM KLEIN
XI. VIKTORIA SILVESTED
XII. SAMNEILL WITH VANESSA MULRONEY
XIII. WITH CLARISSA VORFEL AT WRS RADIO
XIV. CHARMIAN TAYLOR
VII
VI
VIII
II
I
V
III
IV
IX
XIV
XI
XIII
XII
XI
X
ACCESSORIES
“When you fall in love with a clutch or a belt, you
find no peace until that item beautifully lies in your
closet, possibly in its original scented and colorful
tissue paper.This is such a girly attitude! You know
exactly what outfit will look a million dollars with
it !” This strong desire sublimes the surprisingly
endless fascination women have for accessories .
That is why I love to create overly embellished and
ornate pieces that can be remembered. If it is
going to be a longlasting love affair they will
necessarily boost the purest black knitted dress
or the simplest chunky cashmere jumper ”.
Custom made embroidered handbags , crystal
cuffs, exquisite skin belts with jeweled buckles
are the undisputed go-to for a bold and beautiful
style statement.
Everything that could be found in a ballroom of
a Moroccan Riad or a Middle-Eastern once upon
a time Palace is Alessandra’s prime inspiration.
But then she overturns the situation designing
the most simple structured clutches, in the basic
hues of grey and taupe, with an invisible magnet
for discrete catches .
She states accessories are not only what you
wear with your outfit, they are what comes on
your outfit . It could be a trim, an encrusted motif
carefully placed on a garment , or just a small detail
on a hem : details are the most important eyecatching fashion poles . That is why exquisite couture
just lies on the obsessive search for something
new to amaze the audience.
When you want something to remain
irreplaceable it must be different .
The range of accessories going from
high gloss exotic croco bags to skin
belts and cuffs in palette of statement
colors, exude extreme glamour. .
It looks like a magic wand of gold and
silvers has been used for delicate
embellishments on the multitude of
beads and stones, but rigorously to
adorn an old-fashioned yet superclassy
sense of proper.
“When I drive past I still have shivers, I spent so
many exciting afternoons there as a child . The
picture of myself in there remains so vivid , it is like
colours stick to my mind on still images…
I always wanted to go to Daddy’s office after
school. A little girl running through the long
corridors , or playing the secretary while typing on
those old-fashioned typewriters . I would hide in
the models “camerino”: I made it my private
house, to me it looked so enormous! and see
elegant retailers coming in to place orders,
statuesque mannequins, glamorous socialites
popping in for a drink (and a cigarette. . . clouds of
smoke are my worst teenage nightmare!).”
At the time, high fashion only revolved around a
few important names. One of those was Silvano
Malta, THE most sought-after designer.
A primadonna , a trend-setter, the most handsome
man you can ever imagine, wearing long leopard
furs with trainers, always late, sometimes even
showing up a day later but always preceded by
his reputation of impeccable style, mostly ahead
of his time. Giuseppe, whose flamboyant signature
became the trademark logo for the brand itself,
was still in charge of all his own prints and his
reputation was based on custom-made designs,
exclusively produced for him at Luciantex,
a prestigious textile factory in Como.
An optimistic man by nature, Giuseppe was clever
to realize that by having a wholesale depot in the
basement he could fill orders very fast. The stock
was always over-ordered so business was
booming. As this was a truly family-run operation,
his brother Federico and his two elder children
Alessandro and Eugenia joined forces to develop
the brand , conseguently the decision to have
an owned unit of production, and opening a
factory in Vicenza came quite naturally and
spontaneously.
3. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Julie Ordon
4. PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Personal family pictures
Colonnel Eugenio Vicedomini,
Giuseppe Vicedomini in his childhood
Pope Gregory XI in his family vault
With every detail being taken care of under one
roof (the dying of the fabrics, cutting, sizing and
patterning) , costs were kept under control and
production was at its maximum. A combination to
ensure an interesting profit and larger quantities
to be made at best .
“My father’s relationship with his qualified workers
was exceptional. He was trusted , respected and
truly loved. Some of the head tailors still go and
visit him for his birthday nowadays . It seems
almost they still want to pay a tribute to his
fairness and generosity . ”
Constant source for the gossip magazines,
especially with the arrival of the beautiful model
Orietta, later to become Mrs Vicedomini, the brand
became stronger to the point . Where, on press
days, there would be fights over a simple blouse.
She was a finalist for Miss Italy and when Giuseppe
met her, it was love at first sight . He hired her as
the house model and then they got married in
1973.
In 1974 , with their last daughter Alessandra’s
arrival, the function of the factory was now complete.
Malta, naturally a genius who could work even
20 hours a day, ensured the growth of the brand
and maintained its position up to the early 1980’s
when a capsule collection of bridal wear became
a huge part of the Vicedomini’s world. Swirling
georgettes with delicate flowery patterns or
hand-embroidered with pearls and crystals
became necessary musts, incessantly covered
by Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.
Sadly, a unfortunate snowfall in 1984, known as
the worst disaster of the century, caused the
biggest damage to the factory the family could
ever imagine to endure. As a result of the weight
of the snow, the factory roof collapsed and most
of the machinery, archives, fabric stock and
collections, along with ongoing production were
lost or irrecoverable.
It has been emotionally very tough for Giuseppe
to accept such a big setback after so many years
of success . He was about to retire and suddenly
needed to take care of his wife after a very bad
car accident in the 1990’s, which not only marked
Alessandra’s teenage years quite severely, but
put the whole brand’s destiny at stake. A pause to
consider how to manage such a dramatic change
was necessary, and with the wisdom of hindsight,
it was the best thing to do.
Alessandra, excellent student with a lot of
ambition, combined school and working for the
family as a model during those years, and was
already creating a few simple basics knits to
complement her father’s suits. The transition to
the full luxury knit collection we know today has
been smooth and came naturally over the
years, thanks to her varied experiences as a
model in the fashion world for over a decade
with the best known Italian designers .
5. PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Orietta Garavini in her wedding dress
A quick revival of the 1970’s glamour and
a glance to the 1980’s through this special
gathering of original vintage pictures. For
Giuseppe Vicedomini, the key to success
was to be found in the fabric choice first,
whether it was commissioned-printed or
embellished with precious stones rigorously
hand sewed one by one.
A simple tweak to an existing technique,
maybe inspired from an earlier century
breathtaking style is sometime all it takes
to freshen up an outfit. While the jersey “tubino”
enjoyed unparalleled celebrity at a very
early stage, the need for a constant update
brought the brand to focus on swirling
and light-weight crêpe de chine cocktail
dresses. So if the trend was looking for an
answer to cocktail-chic, main editors were
making Vicedomini the new go-to label.
6. PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Orietta Garavini at Miss Italia 1969
7. PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Giuseppe and Orietta Garavini hat their
civil marriage
8. JOLEVENEZIANI . COM
Haute Couture fashion show.
“Scatti memorabilia”
9. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Julie Ordon wearing vintage tubing 1962.
Wardrobeconnect.com
10. JOLEVENEZIANI . COM
Fashion
11. STUDIO ALFA CASTALDI
Silvano Malta 1973
Editorial from Linea Italiana 1971
12. BIBLIOTECA DELLA MODA
Vogue September issue 1970
Fall Winter advertising campaign
13. PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Rolls of fabric and yarns, machinery
and Diala’s vintage sketch
1965-2012
Fitting sessions 1981
Fall Winter advertising campaign 1972
RETROSPECTIVE
PARIS 2012
What makes a great fashion image is the ability to
celebrate aesthetics , combining the pure
immortalization of eternal femininity and an attention
to details and colors with a touch of originality.
This sublimely-curated selection of each decade,
highlighting the very pieces which marked the
“époques” from the 1960’s until today, is stunningly
photographed by Deborah Anderson and stars
top model Julie Ordon.
“I could have not found a more perfect icon to
deeply capture the brand’s allure and style . She
evokes shimmering elegance and timeless
beauty, she is a true model in the very sense of the
word , the most exquisite muse a designer could
dream of. She is simple and her smile made my
creative team overcome the many challenges of
a complicated production , on a wet and windy
Parisian day. Deborah managed to take her ageless style to a new level of desirability. She brought
the house into a new era,sublimizing a new
lifestyle conception and the desire for perfection
every woman tends to fullfill today .”
Fast becoming known for “the” must-have dress
in personalized printed jersey or luscious silks,
Vicedomini’s collections have always made a
name of themselves for being simple in design
but utterly lush in details. Silk-bow tops, tied at
the waist , are embellished with lavish hand-embroideries, while the velvet and satin duchesse
long gowns have gained a coveted reputation.
As we continue with fashion evolution through
the 1970’s and 1980’s, this flashback showcases new vibrant hues and candy-colour dresses
dyed in flower prints with a unique twist on the
house traditional heritage-focused direction,
paired with stronger color geometric shapes
highlighting scenic handicrafts of the “mad about
sparkle” era .
The modern projection to the new century
features “plissé soleil” skirts and classic pinstriped
blazers . To get the right cut and ensure a modern
look, you can team classic gilded lace vintage
pieces alongside with new knitted lurex tops,
a s we di d t o e m pha si ze t he u npa ra l l e l e d
reminiscence of our Place Vendôme adventure.
The latest textural mix of leather tweeds and knits
with fur and glimmering silver is now globally
recognized. Sleek shapes and sophistication
compete for attention in a compelling misture of
modernity and practicality.
Spring Summer advertising campaign 1976
Bridal Collection advertising campaign 1981
Bridal Collection advertising campaign 1981
20. PERSONAL ARCHIVE
Palais Royal Paris 2012
INDEX
2. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Alessandra Vicedomini
The first Vicedomini collection was a capsule of
twelve pieces : a mixture of hand-embroidered
tops and separates, also illustrated in this book.
At t he t i m e t hi s w as gro u nd b reaki ng fo r
ready-to-wear.
Every season the two leaders’ ideas and creativity
would grow into bigger collections: new styles
including different pieces, jackets, blouses, skirts
and suits amazingly outsmarted the “tubonic”
dress, using the most luxurious material available
on the market. Georgette, silk, chiffon, velvet : these
are the tools of their trade , but it is their expert skill
and their eye for detail - almost a sixth sense - that
made the brand so coveted so quickly. Production
was commissioned to independent artisans .
After a few samples were sent to Harrods, the
brand was officially created and Giuseppe was
ready to devote his life to his dream project.
He broke the partnership with Pellizzoni, and set
up in a beautiful office and showroom in Milan.
The most prestigious address for those years- yet
not far from the building he was born in Via Durini was Largo Augusto, entirely built by Mussolini.
Grandiose but sober, black and white contrasted
with an austere absence of classic decorations,
the big marble slabs were the outside shell of a
hugely stylish salon, so typical of the 1970’s :
ice-grey carpets with large mirrors everywhere
and the obligatory leather sofas .
ARCHIVES
1. PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Piazza del Duomo Milano 2012
Italy has always symbolized high-end luxury and
fashion, along with dedication to workmanship
and commitment to beauty and style. How did
a small family-owned brand manage to keep its
head above water throughout the century, after
the whole fashion world went international?
A pope as an ancestor, a valorous colonel awarded
the honour of a state funeral as a father, and an
aristocratic background gave Giuseppe Vicedomini
the lineage to stand as a patriarch in the truest sense
of the word for more than five decades and
through the Second World War.
Giuseppe Vicedomini was born in the early1920s
and pursued a classical education, getting a
degree in economics . It was common for those
families at the time to also actively join political
parties and enlist for a military career: he followed
his father’s passion but quickly understood his
destiny would have been different and , immediately
after the war, wanted to get back to the world of
commerce . He found an opening through personal
contacts in women’s fashion, initially as a
technician : he would study t h e p r o d u c t i o n
time slots and machinery techniques to maximize
the fabrication speed and the quality of the final
garments. He was in touch with skilful tailors and
quickly learnt the rules of fashion. Whilst this served
his immediate needs ,he then set himself up as a
small agency distributing famous brands , such
as
Dorian, Comber and Diala . Bi-annual trips as an agent
driving across Italy to forge new and important
c l i e n t a n d r e t a i l relationships had become his
main profession in the late1950’s.
By 1962, Vicedomini’s life was to take a different
pathIn
. a fast-growing society, among an élite who
dominated the art and cultural world and was
eager for innovation, he was introduced to designer
Lino Pellizzoni. He was immediately enthralled
with his style and drawings. When a smart
businessman teams up with a talented designer
you can only expect a dazzling result.Thus the
iconic printed “tubino” was born: just two simple
stitches on a straight dress, with incredible and
colorful patterns, gracefully printed on a stretch
jersey or a thick silk became something very
special, something every woman desperately
wanted, a must-have of the1960’s . Although this
spontaneous yet simple masterpiece sold out
everywhere, as Giuseppe immediately placed it
with his existing clients, he felt it was time to step
forward and create his own label.
FAMILY HISTORY
FOREWORD
INTRODUCTION
To introduce a casual spirit into couture and create
a garment that transcends time is the most difficult
challenge in fashion. This book celebrates these
efforts, the ideas and enthusiasm of the many
artists who helped Vicedomini and all the inspirational
that motivated the creation of something innovative,
yet timeless and with an easy elegance. The
technical struggle to work with delicate materials
and turn them into sophisticated garments, to
make a piece fit as perfectly as a second skin, is
something you cannot escape in fashion, at any
stage. Why do we all work on the last seam, or
stress about how to correct the fall of the hem
on the mannequin up to the last possible second
prior to a show or a photoshoot? Why can’t we
be always on time like bankers? And why do we
endure impossible dramas about every single
collection that comes out?! We think we have
seen everything and we are prepared to face
any trial, but there is always a unexpected surprise
around the corner that makes us never rest on
our laurels : it looks the fashion world needs to
overcome flawlessness, and that is addictive to
any designer, it keeps your adrenaline high and
keeps you going.
The answer is easy : the human contribution, the
artisan skills of a very intricate chain of widelyscattered people, who need to work t o g e t h e r
just like a beautiful piece of fine jewelry. There
is nothing more enthralling than the power of a
qualified hand, whose craft has been passed
on for generations, willing to develop something
perfectly beautiful, gracefully finished and , not least,
in line with the designer’s vision. That is why the
Made in Italy is unequalled in fashion circles:
anybody can copy, but nobody can create and
invent as they do, with the same precision, the
same “savoir faire”, the same LOVE, the same way
they overcome sartorial challenges. I would never
trade my artisan teams scattered the world over,
for anything : tradition is indeed very important.
Sometimes I am amazed how the satisfaction
of reaching a certain result overtakes the money
they make. This has taught me that working side
by side with people driven by passion and tenacity
is priceless, no matter the financial result . To be
able to understand this mechanism, a designer
needs to gather a lot of experience getting know
every single step in the procedure, from the row
cloth to the finished garment . Most important, it is
imperative for a director to have been through all
stages to deserve the respect of the people who
work for him. I have carried boxes, organized
shipments, written invoices, driven across entire
countries for thousands of kilometers before even
thinking I could take on my family’s adventure.
To reach affordable and wearable luxury is a kind
of a science : a woman dressed impeccably is
bound to be remembered Coco Chanel said :
“Beauty comes when fashion succeeds .
Fashion passes, style remains ”.
1. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage top in white crepon with black bead
floral embroideries and fuchsia
raffia detailing 1962
Original sketch 1962
2. DEBORAH ANDERSON
3. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage top in nude crêpe de chine with
encrusted feathers and sequins 1964
4. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage velvet bustier with crystal neckline
and paillettes cover-up embroidery 1968
5. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage purple printed jersey tunic
with floral beaded embellishment 1972
6. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage purple stretch jersey dress
with gold leaves appliqués 1975
How to stay chic in the cold .
The iconic cashmere vests, developed
and revisited every season in different
shades with hand-dyed matching furs ,
looks as good out on city streets
as they do in more glamorous settings
and, not last, leisure’s .
Featured on the front page of
Vogue’s blog in November 2011
it remains the “indispensable” basic
that will take you from dawn to dusk .
No wonder why it has been the
piece who revived the international
interest for the brand . Addictive .
“Vicedomini is the ‘go to’ label for me
year around . From the beginning they
have got everything right from basic
knits to the most luxurious of furs .
My wardrobe is stocked full of beautiful
pieces that I pull out year after year.
Alessandra herself couldn’t be a more
perfect ambassador and designer, ever
immaculate and elegant, any woman
who knows her can see her personality
run through every piece in the collection”.
Mariella Tandy, Tatler
Modeling jobs from 1991 to 1995
21. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Modeling job 2011
Alessandra Vicedomini from1974 to1998
Portrait 2012
Less is more.
What marked this year’s success is the launch
of the globally recognized “gilet” in double-ply
cashmere with a simple yet lavish fur trim. Just
one piece that made it happen quick and easy.
.An important knit project always starts with the
yarn and immediately you get inspired to refine
the piece with all sort of embellishments . “If you
are sure about who supplies you with the best
quality materials available on the market, you have
already solved half of your problems ” says
Alessandra. “To me, basics will always be the key
in your wardrobe. Create unique, refined pieces
so they can constitute a whole outfit by themselves is my d a y - t o - d a y f a s h i o n s t a t e m e n t ” .
T h e m o s t recognized multi-brand boutiques
chose to carry this fresh combination of knit,
representing sportswear, and fur, representing
the most wanted luxury accessory. For the woman
who likes to move in her clothes, this vest is certainly
the MUST HAVE go-anywhere item. “You want
to be comfortable and you want to look fabulous :
the perfect look has to take you anywhere, from
morning to evening and I believe this particular one fulfills every woman’s lifestyle needs.
You can keep it in your closet for a long time and
always return to it .”
The eye-catching elegance and the simplicity of
the item, evoking timeless glamorous chic, revived Vicedomini’s reputation for craftsmanship
and polish so that the gilet has become every Fall/
Winter collection basic, revisited every season in
different hues and proportions. A fresh spin on
traditional knitwear.
Short sleeve cashmere sweater with lace top
SS
She keeps diaries with dense observations on
love stories, famous pop singers and actors, in
the context of their life events, and handwrites
hundreds of letters on scented paper with glittery
pens to everybody in the world . At the same time
she gravitates towards beautiful models like the
Japanese cartoons telling stories about pictureperfect girls with an intricate destiny heading to
find their happiness. “With a literary formation
like mine you cannot get used to a computerized/
sms based life...it diminishes our human
dimension, but I understand it is a due tribute to
technology and you are a freak if you don’t get
familiar with the latest tool…and thank God
somebody before me invented all this! That is
why sometimes I find myself like a geek behind
my computer, browsing and looking for a
brainstorm, to encounter something unexpected
that dazzles me, all kind of sources of inspiration
are there, behind the screens.”
A solitary young heroine , today demure and softly
spoken, she likes to treasure her lows in life and
mix them with the highs: she is a contemporary
Diana ( the war Goddess or the Princess?) with
a iconic and stylish Sophia Loren reminiscence
shining through .
“If you work in fashion you are an ambassador of
beauty, health, and style, and that has to go with
ethics, love and charisma .That is why you need
a true balance in life. I found mine very early as I
got married at 23 ”.
To know fashion from both sides of a runaway
has not withheld her for being a passionate
supporter of the 100% Made in Italy craftsmanship,
never more so than in today’s global world of
discounted imports, nor does she hide the fear
before distilling a trend for the coming season. The
Vicedomini woman is the one I relate to when I
design : she may be professionally busy, and she
is a mother and a wife . She creates and affirms
herself by a choice of adornment and arrays:
when she walks in, I want her to capture the entire
room’s attention thanks to her personal strokes
of originality. It is impossible to ignore a glamour
goddess especially if she keeps innovating her
look and spreads good energy around her. She
needs to star her own lifestyle story. Of course,
getting the right cut and ensuring a modern look
at the same time is not easy: I am trying to create
a fashion with pieces that fall into place but look
completely effortless. To me, this is called
“affordable luxury”, in which inspired designs change
something useful into a delectable object of desire.
Despite these tough experiences, Alessandra’s
description of her childhood is so warm and sweet it
reads like a classic children’s tale. Her life in Milan,
like most of well-born kids at the time, over passed
the flippancy of getting in and out leggings and
beautiful tailor clothes, which she could already
admire with a different eye. She followed the
daily developments in the art world and found
various passions, like Milan cathedral’s myriad spires
made of immaculate white marble, the massive
gold Madonna statue on the top, the ancient
paving paths in the center which she didn’t want
the cars to damage, and the classic arches and
Roman columns scattered all round town. The
most inspiring fashion capital has indeed hidden
treasures most people do not know about. She
recalls the beautiful horse carriages she would
see on Sundays on her way to Mass, while she
was systematically stopping to admire Leonardo’s
“Last Supper” wall painting, like it was always the
first time. “At the time of course the entrance was
free and the place was not kept like a relic with
tourists of any kind queuing for hours to have a
quick glance. The colors were so subdued yet
intense, perfectly balanced in every shade, the
drapes so impeccably drawn and the perspectives
so meticulously respected, it was impossible not
to shiver facing such a masterpiece. It is a real
privilege one has to treasure to live in a major
European capital with recognized world-renowned
art masterpieces. We even have a completely
preserved Four Tower enormous castle, with
proper drawbridges and a extended park in the
heart of the city, near the boulevards and the
Arches built by Napoleon to reproduce the Paris
urbanization”.
15: JEAN DANIEL LORIEUX
Hand painted portrait on canvas
12. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Double ply cashmere vest with fur trim 2009
and viscose top 2011
Special trim handcuff and ribbed cashmere
turban style hat 2010
Her beginnings as a model after winning a few
of the most eligible Italian beauty contests , had to
follow the standard procedures for breaking into
the fashion world. While her mother carefully was
handing her down all the “mannequin” tips, she
was scouted by an agent and started her first
beauty editorials and small runaway shows
around the age of 14. “ I must have walked miles
of that green and white check slippery marble
corridor of mine, trying and learn how to catwalk
on heels and with books piled on my head . It
was so frustrating to see how easy it was for my
mum to roll and turn around with such a grace ,
against the image of the scattered books on the
floor fallen a thousand times…! How do you do
it?! - I kept on asking - and she patiently answered
“It will come naturally my darling. Keep on training .”
Unlike today, when everything is done for them, a
model back then had to do everything herself : style
h e r h ai r , d o h e r m ak e -u p , br i ng h e r sh o e s
sometimes in every color. So being a “professional” was synonymous of impeccable self-management, uncompromising punctuality and consistent
reliability. And that was certainly what led her to
work for many established designers while still in
her twenties. It was not that easy to be
hardworking and focused, while keeping your
grades high when you are almost alone. E x c e p t
her beloved grandmother who is still very present
in her life, Alessandra had to give up spending
times with her parents who were too busy traveling
and working hard to develop the brand. More
Saturdays afternoon Disney movies and a serious
videogames addiction marked her childhood
rather than fun play dates or cool kids’ birthday
parties. Always intrigued by being among adults,
she spent many years playing boys’ sports like
basketball and volleyball, she learnt to play cards ,
and very soon she ferociously defended her
hard-owned independence against third parties
who disapproved of her precocious debut in the
working world. Plus the struggle to carry a burden
like the atrocity of her mother’s car accident when
she was only 15 has marked a significant change
in her way of conceiving life in general, making
her assert to independence at every opportunity
more and more strongly.
2008
Coco Chanel
Silver lurex long dress on a sangallo knit with
delicate crystal bands and organza underskirt
2013
Stretch wool swirling red dress with chantilly
lace appliqué plastron 2012
Stretch viscose scoop sundress with
geometric sheered nylon patterning 2013
Daughter to an ambitious man who grew up on
the frontlines of politics and conflicts and to a
mother who had to make her living after the
disasters of the Second World War, the portrait of
Alessandra Vicedomini appears a fiercely
independent woman who is now happily
married, raising two boys and combining the tough
businesswoman template to Prince Charmings
perfect spouse’s image. She takes us behind the
scenes of her exciting life to examine the path
which has shaped the history of her working life
up to today, where she is fully responsible of the
brand management, of the collection designs,
the marketing strategies and the relations with
the medias.
The way she traces her childhood captures the
nostalgic projection of a woman-to-be which
outgrew the child at an early stage. Her youth
informs every picture she styled and imprinted
in her mind, by seeking the aesthetical and the
inner beauty in everything and everybody.
Born in Milan in 1974 she was nursed by white
and grey - uniformed nannies, sometimes too
austere and boring to even smile at the baby.
Always academically advanced in her classes,
she grewup as a live-out pupil at highly regarded
Noun’s Institute : she awarded a diploma in languages
with excellent grades and applied to Law University.
“By virtue of a sense of justice that is still haunting
me, I wanted to become one of those angry
criminal lawyers, throwing murderers and
psychopaths in jail. I soon understood that was
not what fate would have led my adventurous
life to.”
“A girl should be two things .
Classy and Faboulous”
Thick white cableknit twin-set in cashwool
2012
Double ply cashmere jacket with mink trim
To be highlighted in the fashion calendars, the
brand strongly needed to take a different
direction and equally attract the market’s attention
with the Spring/Summer looks . The designer’s
addiction to hand-made embroideries has shaped
surprisingly sleek silhouette dresses featured by
major international fashion editors . There are oneshouldered styles, be-dazzled with glitter glamorous
details, backless tops encrusted with gold
paillettes…but the standout piece of the
runaway is the multi-tasking super-thin silk hooded
top with ton-sur-ton sequins appliqués on pockets
and playful elbow patches.
The ability to translate modern ideas into knitted
fabrics, awarded the brand a little corner in
Harrods First Floor Woman Luxury Collections.
“ Definitively the most astonishing and fulfilling
occasion of my professional life. My little rack was
finally placed where every designer wants to be. I
was so lucky to be able to work side-by-side with
highly-experienced buyers and I was humbly
but pleasantly surprised to see how they made
themselves extremely accessible and cooperative.
It was so natural to find myself in an eager
learning mood . You can talk to them, they can
lead you to adjust a few details to better fit the final
customer’s needs without compromising your
creativity. They cleverly know what their clients
like. Definitively a different attitude from certain
snobbish old school buying teams I encountered
in the past. An honor for me, a challenge to keep
my spot and definitely a story of prestige,
a dream come true”.
2009
9. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Couture stretch viscose dress with handmade
fur trim. Limited edition 2011
Stretch viscose knitted swirling dress 2012
FW
8. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage gold macramé lace skirt 1988
paired with lurex top softly knitted on
floral motif 2011
ALESSANDRA
VICEDOMINI
7. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Vintage navy blue cadi dress with demi-lune
pearls and silver needlework 1981
Vintage red double layered plissé
soleil skirt 1985
24: MAURIZIO MONTANI
Cashmere and silk cache-couer with gold
sequin kimono sleeves and swarovsky bikini
2. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Lightweight cashmere and silk bat poncho
with eyelet bikini with encrusted crochet,
sequins and shells 2010
4. DEBORAH ANDERSON
Eyelet bikini with handmade crochet, paillettes
and beads 2010
6. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Powder blue cashmere dress with suede
sequins and turtleneck poncho with thick
wool encrusted lace.
Double ply cashmere sweaters
Fall Winter Man Advertising campaign 2011
12 . MAURIZIO MONTANI
Lycra hand embroidered bikini with crochet
embellishments and stones
Spring Summer Advertising campaign 2010
Totally aligned with the “Homme objet” embodiment
featured by several iconic fashion magazines, this
campaign celebrates the ultimate sexy-chic trend.
In an era dominated by woman’s uprising
independence the images have been centralizing
media controversial opinions.
On one side the ones contemplating the pure
aesthetics today’s woman wants to exude to win
Prince Charming’s attention , on the other side
the ones who think the pursuit of impeccable
physical appearance not only diminishes human
relationship in general, but also throws men on a
lower level as they remain vict i ms of t hi s
irresistible ephemeral game.
A designer chooses by definition to challenge this
impasse. “A woman wants to be beautiful because
she looks for globalized recognition . You need to
capture the essence of today’s woman’s
feelings and enhance her inner beauty through
her appearance. There is nothing worse than
wearing the wrong outfit at the right event or
being down dressed at any occasion. It comes
again to very concept of style: either you have it
or you don’t.
Ralph Lauren says: “Style is very personal. It
has nothing to do with fashion. Fashion is over
quickly, style is for ever”.
That is why I feel my ambassadors are perfectly
tuned with my conception of the day-to-day life.
When they say they always get compliments
when they wear something of mine I feel I
accomplished my mission. I am flattered and
fulfilled but, at the same time, I find myself
caught in a eager escalation to go beyond
that one outfit . I need to create more, something they cannot deprive themselves of,
and that possibly remains timeless ”. And, in life
it is known opposites attract. That is why, talking
about ambassadors, the choice of male icons
focused on types of men who could firstly
represent what those women want for themselves
- specifically as an object - and secondly who exude
an intense iconic beauty, this time definitively not
so softly.
“Brazilian born model Miro Moreira, latterly most
contended testimonial of big italian labels, came
along by pure coincidence and his face and allure
really caught my attention.It is always a kind of
achievement to discover faces before anybody
else.. . I thought his beauty was utterly unsettling
and quite mysterious: I was delighted the
photographer could freeze the thin line shining
through the game he was playing between boy
and man. The shots remind me about statuesque
classic Gods and warriors, it has been a very
interesting project”.
On an other tone, to enhance the idea of the man
as an object, famous italian TV star Marco Ceriani
played the game as professionally as you could
ever expect. Although the close ups are always,
of course, focused on stunning Estonian model
Raja Lisauskaite,his looks and poses are so perfect
and intense you almost doubt the campaign is
Woman Spring Summer.
Vogue stated knitwear designers are changing
the fashion game, often with the help of technology
producing pieces that are intriguing and covetable.
Alongside with super wearable cashmere jackets
and functional trench coats , this year’s inspiration
goes through elegant studies about what madeto-measure fashion can look like in modern times.
Suede styled into kaftans for winter or full skirts,
three-colored striped satin long gowns shaped
into important kimono dresses enhanced softmodeled silhouttes on colorful palettes. Metallic
threads on floral patterns underscore hyperfemininity and an incredible instinct for style.
Shells, crochets and semi-precious stones are
exciting tools to improve the design process and
create excitement when constructing a dress.
Vicedomini spreads distribution through important
retailers across Europe with an excellent percentage
sell-through . From Capri to Porto Cervo, from
Istanbul to Beirut via St Tropez and Palm Beach,
the brand is now a reference in knit excellence
and a great interest to highly influential media.
8. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Stretch satin and shantung bicolor alter neck
with small beads navaho embroidery.
5. JULIA GRUNZ
Cashmere and silk cache-coeur with sequin
kimono sleeves 2010
AMEDEO TURELLO STYLE MONTECARLO
ISSUE #31
Double ply ribbed V neck in cashmere and silk
2010
9. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Long silk kimono kaftan with gilded clovers
on neckline.
Black asymmetric kaftan in pure cotton
embellished by special enameled stones and handmade crochet.
RESORT
COLLECTION
7. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Nude cashmere long coat with mongolia fur
and handmade chenille border encrusted
with stones and bouclé thread.
3. AMEDEO TURELLO COPYRIGHT
STYLE MONTECARLO ISSUE #31
2010
SS
1. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Swarovski crystals and golden beads on
black bikini 2010
FW
BIKINI
Here comes the sun!
Dazzling one-off pieces in draped lycra and semiprecious stones on metallic thread say it all.
Multi-faceted sequins embroideries paired with
shells and swarovsky stones on bikinis make
heads turn on the beach , and you are wearing
Vicedomini of course.
It is described that each piece is crafted in Italy,
then voyages to India, where it is hand-embroidered
by skilled artisans, before a final return to Italy where
it receives meticulous finish touches.
The eyelet-trim bikini with crochet, shell and sequins
has been awarded as one of the worldwide top
ten masterpieces even created in beachwear.
Bloggers across Europe and renowned
fashionistas through the five continents celebrated
the excellence in detailing and the originality of
this padded bikini conceived in three colorways
only, but strictly produced for a limited edition
distribution.
“To me beachwear is an essential capsule when
you design Spring Summer. You undress on
the beach, but ultimately you show off THAT one
piece you are wearing, more than any other outfit
you slip on the rest of the year!”.
Contemporary and trendy cut-out monokinis with
studs starburst come with those framed with
crystals and turned into the hottest sun-kissed
mermaid must-have.
Girly yet utterly chic, they are fashioned to match
colorful silk kaftans and embellished coverups, not to be missed for poolside glamour
lounging and Riviera getaways.
“She is a one woman powerhouse
and inspiration . If there ever was an
icon, mother and designer that inspired
me to be make being glamourous my
everyday priority, it would be her. She is
effortlessly chic - something immediately
transmitted through both her ready-to-wear
and swimwear collections .
Her cashmere and fur designs are timeless classics and everyone woman
should treat themselves to at least one
piece of her designs .”
“Elegance is the balance between proportion,
emotion and surprise”. Valentino
These three elements harmonically lye in the capsule
Resort Collection born in 2009.
“The sea has always fascinated me an its beauty
needs to be celebrated with a special collection.
I love it also in the winter season, I can’t spend too
much time away from it . . . ”.
It was not planned to produce a separated
collection from the Spring Summer. But one day
Alessandra met by coincidence a charming lady
who could create (by hand of course) unbelievable
embroideries putting together amazing beads,
crystals and delicate threads with such a graceful
savoir faire she couldn’t turn the challenge down.
Easiness suggested by kaftans moving away
from the waist, instead of overly sexy silhouettes
exude lush hyper femininity piece after piece
thanks to the subdued pastel hues of the graphic
glimmering details on hems and necklines on
hems and necklines.
Silk draped tunics create a flaring volume at the
sides of the thighs and match stunning embellished
bikinis , keeping the brand’s course of elegance
and sophistication very high. The Moroccan style
long kaftan with gilded clovers, widely illustrated
in this book, has been the most wanted cruise
item of main European editors .
14: JULIA GRUNZ
Bow bikini worked with pastilles and mother
of pearl 2010
15. JULIA GRUNZ
16. JULIA GRUNZ
17. JULIA GRUNZ
18. HELLO MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT
SS
13. AMEDEO TURELLO COPYRIGHT
STYLE MONTECARLO ISSUE #32
Lily Russo, Grazia Magazine
FW
2011
As it contours the body like no other, stretch
viscose becomes every designers’ most-wanted
yarn to work. This Summer collection focuses on
a triumphant celebration of femininity showcasing
dresses and separates fashioned into tops and
paired with skinny pants. Vicedomini has created
a über-modern approach to the artisanal craft,
where grown up glamour abounds with striking
black beachwear just out from a Bond movie.
Playing with nude tones , jeweled-colored dresses
take center stage and captivate midnight blue
row stones and hand-finished pave plastrons
glistened with the Mediterranean magic of
cropped mirrors.
Pattern and color are massively important in the
surprisingly sleek silhouettes underscoring
ethereal beauty with a vague sense of sexy
provocation. Based on custom-made exclusive
prints just like the ones her father was used to
work on, croco modern silks make an appearance
in high fashion modern-cut kaftans.
19. MAURIZIO MONTANI BARBARA BOZZINI
One shouldered cashmere dress with lace
chenille skirt and mink jacket.
20 MAURIZIO MONTANI BARBARA BOZZINI
Half skins fur vests with stretch
leather leggings
21 LUISAVIAROMA . COM COPYRIGHT
Double ply green cashmere vest with trim
photographed at Barthel’s 2010
MAURIZIO MONTANI
Limited edition couture stretch viscose dress
with fur trim
22. JEAN DANIEL LORIEUX
23. FABRIZIO NANNINI
Lace insert with velvet waves on cashmere
dress with delicate fur trim 2010
Vintage sketch 1972
Long crêpe de chine dress with lapis lazuli
on metallic thread adorning thin chain based
jeweled plastron
:-')(31-2IDVKLRQVKRZ
GENEVA
LAKESIDE SUNSET
Glamour at sunset for the stunning Vicedomini Fall Winter
Collection Fashion Show.
To the lyrics of “Time for tea”, timeless fur vests and
cashmere smart tops are the jet set’s must-haves on natural
and delicate hues of camels and greens.
Standing ovation on the finale, for the “look-at-me” dress
with fox trim on ballerina skirt, for the most spectacular
limited edition.
www.vicedomini-luxury.com
1. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Printed lace kaftan with knitted hems.
Sprig Summer advertising campaign 2011
2. BELLA FENNING
Backstage fashion Show RAC
London March 2011
3. JEAN DANIEL LORIEUX
Custom made bespoke zipped cardigan with
chantilly see through lace 2008
4. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Jacquard animalier lurex turtleneck with
belted mink vest
FUR GLAMOUR
ALESSANDRA AND HER MODELS
5. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Stretch viscose dresses with lace tassels and
fox vest with laser leather inserts
ATMOSPHERE
BACKSTAGE
7. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Stretch viscose knitted dress
Spring Summer 2012 Advertising campaign
FW
8. HARPERS BAZAAR RUSSIA COPYRIGHT
Stretch viscose tunic with band knitted on
different floral motifs
CELEBRITIES
BRANDS
MAKE UP
COUTURE
THE FINAL
The winter evolution of macramé or chantilly
mirrors a picture-perfect frozen wonderland forest
and blends in with different materials , giving the
designer a credit for the control on the shapes
and the choice of combinations. Timelessness
constantly comes across the craft on hand knitted
coats and woven double face padded vests.
Flessage dresses belted with wide skin wraps lift
interesting new technical developments, but the
masterpiece remains an off the shoulder knit
sirene dress made of the softest shimmery yarn
ever discovered. A sparkling textured second
skin with a reminiscent flowery touch injects the
concept of style in a new concept of easy-towear evening collection.
They are luxe enough for Pharohos and Queens,
those accustomed to an excess so fabulously
wretched they don’t need an other piece but …
cannot miss the opportunity of wearing the truly
iconic best-seller of the season.
9. MAURIZIO MONTANI
Hand made thick cashmere jacket with
simple tank top and pleated bicolor leather skirt
SS
Inspired by the flawless glamour of film star icons
of the past, this year’s designs spotlight head-turning
pieces cut to fit and flattering the woman’s body.
Dress after dress, it is a veritable celebration of
aesthetics. And with just as much consideration
going into the construction, they are so beautiful as
they comfortably slim the wearer in at the waist,
these sundresses can easily forgo supportive
lingerie.
“It is important that they feel young, fresh and cool,
but also sophisticated to the point that they can be
worn at work and at any glamorous event in the
world, day or night.”
By borrowing elements and inspirations from her
father’s historical archive, Alessandra has always
made a point of celebrating lace through all
seasons. Emphasized on toile de Jouy prints , or
naturally stretch for everyday T–shirts, lace has
always been synonymous of the brand’s allure.
2012
SS
CATWALK
Long sirene knitted lurex dress knitted on
flower motif and thick cable knit short sleeve
jumper with long fur trimmed vest
12. LUCIA SANMARCO
Fashion show and backstage Geneva 2011
HELLO MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT
I. CAROLINE SCHEUFELE
II. WITH KIRSTY BERTARELLI
III. EMILIE BOIRON, MISS SUISSE
IV. CHRISTINA ESTRADA JUFFALI
V. PRINCESS CAMILLA BOURBON SICILE
VI. KIRSTY BERTARELLI
VII. ILARY WESTON
VIII. ILARY BLASI
IX. WITH GREG GORMAN, STEVE MC CURRY, WILLIAM KLEIN, AMEDEO TURELLO
HOLGER ECKSTEIN AND JEAN-MARIE ZIMMERMAN
X. WILLIAM KLEIN
XI. VIKTORIA SILVESTED
XII. SAMNEILL WITH VANESSA MULRONEY
XIII. WITH CLARISSA VORFEL AT WRS RADIO
XIV. CHARMIAN TAYLOR
ARMANI
WITH ANNA WINTOUR, ANNA MOLINARI, ROSSELLA TARABINI AND THE BLUMARINE TEAM
I
16 PRIVATE ARCHIVES
V
III
IV
IX
WITH
174
TAMARA BECKWITH, GOGA ASHKENAZI, CAROLINE STANBURY AND HOLLY VALANCE
WITH CLAUDIA RAVNBO, CLAIRE VASFI AND CHRISTINA JUFFALI
175
17 HELLO MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT AND
BELLA FENNING
Fashion show at RAC London march 2011
XI
XIII
XI
X
When you want something to remain
irreplaceable it must be different .
The range of accessories going from
high gloss exotic croco bags to skin
belts and cuffs in palette of statement
colors, exude extreme glamour. .
It looks like a magic wand of gold and
silvers has been used for delicate
embellishments on the multitude of
beads and stones, but rigorously to
adorn an old-fashioned yet superclassy
sense of proper.
“When you fall in love with a clutch or a belt, you
find no peace until that item beautifully lies in your
closet, possibly in its original scented and colorful
tissue paper.This is such a girly attitude! You know
exactly what outfit will look a million dollars with
it !” This strong desire sublimes the surprisingly
endless fascination women have for accessories .
That is why I love to create overly embellished and
ornate pieces that can be remembered. If it is
going to be a longlasting love affair they will
necessarily boost the purest black knitted dress
or the simplest chunky cashmere jumper ”.
Custom made embroidered handbags , crystal
cuffs, exquisite skin belts with jeweled buckles
are the undisputed go-to for a bold and beautiful
style statement.
Everything that could be found in a ballroom of
a Moroccan Riad or a Middle-Eastern once upon
a time Palace is Alessandra’s prime inspiration.
But then she overturns the situation designing
the most simple structured clutches, in the basic
hues of grey and taupe, with an invisible magnet
for discrete catches .
She states accessories are not only what you
wear with your outfit, they are what comes on
your outfit . It could be a trim, an encrusted motif
carefully placed on a garment , or just a small detail
on a hem : details are the most important eyecatching fashion poles . That is why exquisite couture
just lies on the obsessive search for something
new to amaze the audience.
Backstage retrospective photoshoot Paris 2012
XII
18. BELLA FENNING , SHOOTINGDELUXE
AND PRIVATE ARCHIVES
Moments 2011 and 2012
ACCESSORIES
15 MAURIZIO MONTANI
Woman for Cancer calendar cover 2008
VIII
II
XIV
Long stretch dress knitted “façon sangallo”
with swarovsky crystal bands and
organza underskirt
VII
VI
22 . IAN ABELA
Embellished evening bag with multicolored
sequins
23. DANIELE MONTANI
Accessories’ details
Accessory detail
For a brand like Vicedomini, every season the
manufacturing level becomes more intricate and
challenging. Using the latest machine techniques,
designer styles sheer geometric nylon patterns
on clever billowing gowns that swing between
glamour and simplicity . She creates highly complex
dresses , carefully and exclusively made in one
panel that is knitted with a sangallo lace appearance
for ultramodern cocktail dresses you can admire
here as the strongest pattern of the season.
The cut-out dresses flaunt an undeniably
avantgarde edge. Catwalk begins with a symphony
of navy and noir gowns and dresses, then gives
way to a series of multi-colored striped looks with
an exquisite palette of pastel colors mixed with
strong white or black. Centered around clean-cut
resort pieces, richly crafted, fine metallic trims on
hues of fine copper and glazed silver are cleverly
interwoven with colorful crêpe-de-chine motifs
on white embroidered thick cotton. Reaching
out to the Asian and South American market, the
brand keeps its exclusive distribution to an élite
who wants to transform the client’s seasonal
necessity into an epitome of renovation in the
millennium woman’s ultrachic closet .
Stretch sundress with geometric sheered
nylon detailing
WITH GIORGIO ARMANI AND KIRSTY BERTARELLI
FRIENDS
CHARITIES
When you wor k in fashion you d eal with
beauty and glamour everyday, but you cannot
forget there is an intrinsic human component
beyond it. The inner part of beauty is deeply
related to our hearts.
“It has been quite spontaneous for me to organize
small charity fundraisings related to my events
or photo shoots. To be surrounded by wonderful
women and brand’s supporters who understand
the importance of sharing and helping
l o c a l foundations has been a motivation to
work harder. I met interesting people involved
in different organizations, the ones closest to my
heart are related to children’s hospitalization and
cancer research .”
In 2008 , twelve attractive women from Geneva
and London posed together for a stunning portrait
calendar. A very simple black background to
highlight the very beauty behind a pure shot. All
girls involved in the project actively worked to
distribute calendars and also contributed to find
sponsors to cover costs . “I was deeply touched
by their will to cooperate beyond the fun of the
shoot ”. All funds raised went to support a cancer
foundation.
In 2011 a very close friend offered Alessandra
the possibility to host a beautiful fashion show in
London at the Royal Automobile Club to support
British Red Cross. A delightful afternoon tea set
up with fresh white flowers and delicate feather
butterflies motivated 120 incredibly generous
women to support New Zealand’s devastating
earthquake, as well as Libyan families needing
emergency provisions after fleeing their country.
In 2012 a joyful final catwalk with children wearing
clown red noses surprised the spectators who
could anonymously make a small donation for
Theodora Foundation .
“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses
only. Fashion is in the skies, in the street : fashion
has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is
happening ”. Coco Chanel
6. FABRIZIO NANNINI
Feather weight cashmere and silk
turtleneck 2010
Astrakan coat on double ply cashmere with
metallic rings 2011
ERIC CASSINI
Short sleeved mink coat
2013
FW
FRIENDS
As temperatures drop and the days shorten,
sartorial leanings can often twist your mood for
the season. Suddenly, summer’s refreshing
gelato whooshes out the window and darker
hues descend on closets. Impossible to renounce
cozy textures of cashmere woven with chenille
in a myriad guises : capes, shrugs and collars, new
to this season create show-stopping pieces like
the zipped taupe cat-suit everybody went mad
about.
25. DANIELE MONTANI
1. DANIELE MONTANI
2 . DANIELE MONTANI
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Biblioteca della moda
Studio Alfa Castaldi
Jole Veneziani archive
Hello Magazine UK
Pop Magazine UK
Harper’s Bazaar Russia
Style Montecarlo
Genève Sur la Terre
Hello Magazine Canada
People and Gotha
CREDITS
Jean Daniel Lorieux
Studio Fotografico Montani
Tamara Beckwith
Mariella Tandy
Desirée Mitterrand
Lily Russo
Amedeo Turello
Giorgio Armani Press Office
Luisaviaroma . com
Wardrobeconnect . com
Orlando Tonizzo
Gloria Storchi
Fiona Scarry
Julia Grunz
Vanessa Miedler
Amoryn Rogers
British Red Cross
Chopard
De Grisogono
Benoit de Gorsky
Eric Cassini
Ian Abela
La Tribune de St Tropez
Miro Moreira
Marco Ceriani
Lisa B
Juliette Blondel
Clarissa Vorfel
Power of Privé Toronto
Eva Herzigova
Ana Beatriz Barros
Tung Walsh
Tamara Rothstein
Cleo Sullivan
Livio Mancinelli
Condé Nast
ANDREA DE JACO
Because there has not been a better friend in this world who thought me passion and
honesty and opened the door to truthful feelings
SERGIO SPOSARO
My mentor in sales and everything relating to “corporate”: the man who initiated me with
knowledge and patience to the trade world
TO MY GRANDFATHER WILSON
Thank you for reminding me everyday the depth of a great saying
“Il danaro fa l’uomo ricco, l’educazione lo fa signore”
FRANCESCO BARTHEL
For being always there for me and loving me the way I am
MY GRANDMOTHER ADA
For being an example of unconditioned sharing and giving
TO DOROTEA GRAZIELLA ELODIE PEGGY MIRANDA SUSANA CONSTANCE ALEXANDRA
AMALIE FLORENCE DENISE VANESSA BENEDETTA
For being the brand’s worldwide messengers
MARIELLA LILY LUCIA FIONA CLAUDE GEORGIKA JEAN DANIEL JEAN-SEBASTIEN, ODILE
For the consistent and amazing editorial coverage given to the brand even at unknown stages
LUISA PAOLO MIRELLA IRENE ILARIA SILVANA RITA MARCELLO FAUSTO RICCARDO
For bringing my sketches to life with the 100% Made In Italy unparalleled quality
ANTONELLA BRUNO MARIO DANILO AIRILY
For supplying the most sublime materials essential to top quality creations
FOR ALL THOSE WHO CARRIED MY PARCELS AROUND THE WORLD
Thank you!
TAMARA, CLARISSA CARMEN BIANCA
For your contribution
ELENA KRIS
For your great support and back-up
MAURIZIO
For growing with style the brand’s image
MARIO ORNELLA FIAMMETTA MARIANNE
Who can put up with my volubility producing exceptional prints
ELSA
For being the mirror of my soul and taking care of my education. You will always be my guide
STOKE PARK EAGLE SKI CLUB ALINGHI
For developing new exciting projects
LAURENT PERRIER CHOPARD ADLER
For unconditioned support
FOUR SEASONS GENEVA PRESIDENT WILSON GENEVA RAC LONDON BRITISH
RED CROSS THEODORA FOUNDATION DOMICILES GENEVA VILLAGE GENEVA
GSTAAD PALACE HOTEL
For showing unparalleled professionalism in joint venture events
THANK YOU
TO MY TOP MUSES
LAURA, KIRSTY, CHRISTINA RANIA ROSALIND MARGARITA ANNE NADYA JOY MARY
CRISTEL CHRISTINE JUDY KAREN MARINA GARANCE
For being the brand’s most glamorous ambassadors through the world and the most loyal
friends since my first steps as a designer
This book is dedicated to the ones who are not
any longer here, and to the ones who have been
in the right place at the right time and contributed
to build my business boosting my ideas and
becomning important references in my life.
A TRIBUTE TO
MY DAD
This year my dad is turning 90 and he founded
the brand 50 years ago . I think it is the kind of
achievement that needs to be celebrated with
something important. I believe in coincidences
and I take time to elaborate the reason why special
numbers keep on coming across in my life.
I enjoyed putting together all vintage historical
images that still mean a lot to our family, and
searched the dusty European fashion archives
to make Vicedomini’s vision across the decades
accessible to everybody with a quick snapshot.
Being a man who lives across two centuries,
who has witnessed so many radical changes in
the world, I consider my father as an example
of a self-made man with taste, whose generosity
has marked the hearts of many. No matter what
the financial outcome at his time, his commitment
“heart and soul“ to create everlasting style has
been a true guide to me. Class, education and
distinction are becoming rare at our times : I hope
most of us can look back and return to those
values in life. Although our era forces us to live a
hundred. - miles - a - minute life, getting faster and
faster every day , these values don’t change and
they will always be the basics I want my children
to believe in and to refer to when they are in
trouble.

1962 | 2012 - vicedomini

Transcription

Similar documents

DREAM BIG! - We Are Photogirls

Company profile Dutch fashion house Oilily has been a hallmark of

Surily Goel

Walk-for-a-Cause-Bos..

POLIMODA ATTUALITA`

Cocktail - Travel Communication

Issue Number Eighteen

The History of Fashion

FIT CampusTech R6 Final - Fashion Institute of Technology