Tsagaan Sar Insight 2017

Transcription

TSAGAAN SAR INSIGHT
February 25th 2017 - 13 Days
Includes the two-day Thousand Camel Festival
All images used throughout this document were taken either by EL guests or members of the EL team. This
is the Mongolia that you will also experience.
Written by Jess! - Eternal Landscapes 2016
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Your Itinerary Overview
Ulaan Baatar
February 25th
City Walking Tour
Accommodation of your own choice
Middle Gobi
Bituun and Shinin Negiin
February 26th - 28th
Erdenedalai
Family operated ger camp
accommodation
March 1st
Baga Gazriin Chuluu
accommodation
March 2nd
Tsagaan Suvraga
accommodation
March 3rd and 4th
Dalanzadgad and Gobi Gurvan
Saikhan National Park
accommodation
March 5th
Bayanzag
accommodation
March 6th and 7th
Bulgan Community
accommodation
March 8th
Gobi Oasis Tree Planting Project
accommodation
Southern Gobi
Thousand Camel
Festival
Ulaan Baatar
March 9th
Return UB
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Map Of Route
For a brief introduction to EL, our trip style, your tour vehicle, your tour accommodation and your EL
team, please go to page 21
For the inclusions and exclusions, please go to page 27
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Tsagaan Sar Insight Overview
Mongolia’s Lunar New Year is known as Tsagaan Sar - White Month. It is one of the most important and
traditional of celebrations in Mongolia and falls on the second new moon after the Winter Solstice.
Tsagaan Sar brings together family members and lasts a minimum of three days. In 2017, The year of the
Fire Monkey will finish and year of the Fire Rooster start. Tsagaan Sar also marks the end of winter as well
as the beginning of a new year's cycle.
For 2017, I, Jess the founder of EL, will lead our Tsagaan Sar Insight trip. You will spend time meeting the
rural families we work with in the middle and southern Gobi - including spending Lunar New Year with
family members of the EL team. We will help you with purchasing your tradtional Tsagaan Sar clothing so
that you are warmly received by all that hosts as you have taken the time to follow the festival traditions.
You will also purchase gifts for the families you will be staying with.
After Lunar New Year, you will continue south through the immensity of the southern Gobi to experience
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21st Century Mongolia Versus Guidebook
Mongolians are not just divided between those who live in Ulaanbaatar and herders. It's not just about the
minority groups of the Kazakhs or the Buriats or the Tsaatan either. Mongolians live in the cities of Darkhan and
Erdenet. They also live in the other provincial centres as well as the smaller town and rural communities. To just
want to experience the life of a herder is to ignore a majority of the population. There are teachers and
Christians and those with disabilities and policemen and musicians and military personnel and accountants and
miners and geologists and drivers and shop owners and construction workers and street cleaners - they are all
Mongolians.
Our trips focus on 21st Century Mongolia - not just the Mongolia sold in the guide books or portrayed by tour
companies. If you’re coming to Mongolia, you have to experience it’s past, present and future to get a real feel
what what the country is about. Yes, you’ll get to experience the traditional way of life but at the same time
gain an overview as what it means to be Mongolian in 21st Century Mongolia.
The landscapes are immense and weathered and stark and remarkable. The way all Mongolian people live their
lives amongst these landscapes is also remarkable. The landscapes are not untouched or undiscovered and you
will be shocked by the amount of rubbish but the sheer size and magnificence of them will impact on you
greatly.
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Day One - February 25th
Ulaanbaatar
UB is a huge mix – a melting pot of ingredients. A surprising mix of East meets West, it is polluted, dusty,
and dynamic and as a passing visitor can sometimes be a difficult city to get to know. From its origins as a
nomadic city, it has developed into a tough, modern and cosmopolitan city full of contrasts and extremes.
UB maintains a strong Mongolian identity of its own and has a ‘frontier’ feel and vibrancy – it is a city
well-worth exploring.
Spend part of today at the Black Market. Mongolians like to start off the new year with their ger,
apartment, or house being very clean. Many families will take the time prior to the New Year, to
redecorate by buying new flooring or rugs to hang on the walls. In addition to new household goods,
families will buy new clothing as well.You’ll be joining in with the crowds and purchasing your
Tsagaan Sar clothing – including a winter deel. In the late afternoon, head to one of our favourite bars
for a celebratory welcome drink and a great view over the city.
Travel Details: I will arrange a transfer from the airport or train station on your arrival day into Ulaan Baatar.
There is no extra cost for this service.
Accommodation: Your own choice of accommodation but we provide ideas and can help with booking
Meals: Local lunch and a welcome drink in one of the ‘sky’ bars with their spectacular views out over Ulaan Baatar.
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Day Two - Feb 26th
Erdenedalai
Bituun
Today is mainly about enjoying the landscapes as they unfold as you leave Ulaanbaatar behind you and
travel through to Erdenedalai. Erdenedalai is Mongolian for ‘Jewel Ocean’ and although far from the
ocean this small town located in the middle of the Gobi steppe provides a genuine insight into everyday
life in Mongolia. It is also the hometown of most of our drivers and a very tight knit and traditional
community.
Today is ‘Bituun’ - New Year’s Eve. Bituun means 'to close down’ and on this day Mongolian families eat to
be full - it is believed that if you stay hungry you will be hungry for the coming year. On the Tsagaan Sar
table will be bread, meat, up to (or more than) 1000 buuz (dumplings) and the fat tail of a sheep.
According to custom, the fattest sheep should be killed and the lower back and tail boiled and served on
the table for the entire holiday.
Members of the Arildpurev family (including my informal business partner Turuu!) whom you will join
for Tsagaan Sar
Travel Details: Roughly 280km UB to ED on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 5-6 hours driving time)
Accommodation: Private ger to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets, no showers
Meals: L/D
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In the run up to Tsagaan Sar families prepare 100’s of
dumplings - often over 1000. Why? Tsagaan Sar
symbolises wealth and prosperity in the family and is
a celebration when Mongolians come together to show
respect to the family elders and to renew friendship.
The number of dumplings shows respect to the eldest
member of the family.
Day Three and Four - February 27th and 28th
Erdenedalal
Shiniin Negiin
Today is New Year’s Day. In the morning everyone rises bright and early to greet the sun. Traditionally,
members of the household honour nature and the spirits of Mongolia by going to an ovoo that they use for
ceremonial occasions. They will take food and offerings and the oldest will voice words of gratitude and
praise to the spirit of the mountain and the surrounding area.
My trip assistant Enkhee blessing the ovoo at sunrise in 2015
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Then, in order to have health and happiness in the New Year each individual must take their 'first steps of
the New Year'. Their lunar year of birth and the current year will dictate the direction that they walk in it is believed to be important to start your way in the right direction on the first day of the new year.
After the first steps are taken all family members re-enter their home and start the Tsagaan Sar greetings.
You will be taking part in all aspects of the day!
In this image you can boov – the traditional Mongolian bread (basically biscuits made of flour).
The boov are stacked in layers which have to be an odd number – three, five, etc – as the odd
numbers represent happiness. The older the family members, the higher the stack of boov to show
respect (the number of levels indicates the status of the family, which is determined by the age of the
parents and the number of their children). The boov is then decorated with aaruul (Mongolian dried
cheese) and small sweets. This image is from our 2015 Tsaagan Sar trip. This is the Myadag family - the sister in law of Turuu
(your driver and my informal business partner)
Travel Details: Short drives throughout the area
Accommodation: Private ger to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets, no showers)
Meals: B/L/D
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Day Five - March 1st
Baga Gazriin Chuluu
Today is mainly about exploring the landscapes of the middle Gobi. The landscapes of Baga Gazriin Chuluu
consist of unique granite rock formations within the semi-desert steppe of the middle Gobi. Baga Gazriin
Chuluu has local area protected status and is considered sacred by the local population who make their
home here.
There is a small monastery known locally as Chuluun Sum (Rock Temple). Although destroyed, it is used as
a place of pilgrimage by the local herders to ask the local spirits for protection and help. It is a peaceful
and sacred area to visit. From here, spend the late afternoon exploring the interior rock formations with
your trip assistant. This relaxed walk will offer up hidden landscapes with immense views where eagles
Note On Accommodation at Baga Gazriin Chuluu
At Baga Gazriin Chuuu, you will stay at the ger camp accommodation offered by husband and wife Bataa and
Dembee. Together with their two children, they move twice a year and only a short distance - this is a
migration pattern typical to the Gobi.
As with a lot of the families we work with, they live a quiet and reserved life - focusing on their small number
of livestock. their winter ger pasture is in the lee of the rocks - using the protection they provide from the
wind. Their English is limited and they will be busy during their Tsagaan Sar celebration, but you will be able to
enjoy the warmth of their hospitality.
Travel Details: Roughly 280km UB to ED on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 5-6 hours driving time)
Accommodation: Private ger to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets, no showers
Meals: L/D
make their home. Your trip assistant will accompany you.
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Day Six - March 2nd
Tsagaan Suvraga
White Stupa
Travel through the Gobi to the home of the Zorgio family - camel herders who make their home at
Tsagaan Suvraga. Domestic bactrian camels are well adapted to life in the harsh Gobi Desert and are
a valuable, desert livestock species. They are bred as multipurpose animals - for transportation, for
meat, for their milk and for their wool.
En-route, stop at the provincial capital of the middle Gobi - Mandalgovi where you can enjoy a hot shower
at the local town shower house.
At the home of the Zorgio family
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This image is of our 2015 Tsaagan Sar guest (Ross, at the front left) with Zorgio and Deegii the heads of
the family. Their daughters Shinee, Saikhnaa and Urnaa are also here with their husbands and children.
Travel Details: Roughly 240km BGC to Tsagaan Suvraga on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 5-6 hours driving
time)
Accommodation: Private ger to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets, no showers).
Meals: B/L/D
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Don’t think that Tsagaan Sar is just a short celebration. Family that cannot visit family during the
main two days will visit as soon as possible after - also friends ands neighbours come to pay their
respects. As well as the more traditional ceremonies, traditional games are played especially
shagai - the ankle bones. You have been warned! It gets highly competitive!
There are often horse races just after Tsagaan Sar as well. Dundgobi Aimag is home to some of
Mongolia’s most successful horse trainers and owners so we hope to be able to observe at least
one horse race.
En-route through Dundgobi Aimag, Feb 2015
Day Seven and Eight- March 3rd and 4th
Dalanzagad and Gobi Gurvan Saikhan National Park
The Three Beauties
Arrive in Dalanzagad in the afternoon. Dalanzagad is the
provincial capital of the southern Gobi. Here you can enjoy a
hot shower at the town show house and stop at the local
market - most of the locals shop here where you can buy
anything from sections of a full-size ger to felt boots and
medicine. Also, in the evening we have arranged a private but
informal concert for you by local Mongolian professional
musicians. It doesn’t cost any extra and although it’s a small
event and not too long it's long enough so that you experience
music from the Morin Khuur and khoomi (throat/overtone
singing).
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This evening you will stay in the provincial capital of Dalanzadgad at the home of Oyunaa. She lives
in the ger neighbourhood in a small house. Her extended family live next door in a ger. They all
live within their ‘hashaa’ (fenced area belonging to each family). Your accommodation is one of the
three or four gers Oyunaa offers for guests to stay in. They are a quiet and private family but often
Oyunaa and her family come and listen to the concert as well.
Travel Details: Roughly 240km TS to Dalanzagad on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 5-6 hours driving time)
Accommodation: Private ger to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets, hot shower at the local town
shower house
Meals: B/L/D
On Day Eight, spend the day exploring the interior of the Gobi Gurvan Saikhan National Park. How far into
the interior we can get by vehicle will depend on the snowfall. However, there are always feet! Yolyn Am
is known as Vulture’s Gorge or Mouth and is located within Gobi Gurvan Saikhan - Mongolia’s largest
national park – a mountainous terrain rising out of the extensive desert plains and a region of incredible
biological diversity. This mountainous region was formed by the same tectonic activity that created the
Himalayas and is part of the Gobi Altai Range – the outer crumple zone of the Himalayan geological
activity.
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Day Nine- March 5th
Bulgan - Bayanzag
The Flaming Cliffs
Bayanzag is one of the most important areas for dinosaur fossils. Bayanzag means ‘Rich in Saxauls’ and the
name shows what is important for the Mongolian people what is important for the Mongolian people – not
the red sandstone cliffs named the ‘Flaming Cliffs’ by Roy Chapman Andrews but the small desert shrub
that is nurtured by the rare outwash from the surrounding gullies.
Bayanzag
The plateaus of the Gobi can be starkly bleak,
windswept and yet beautiful. They form the huge
Nemegt Basin in which were discovered the most
notable dinosaur fossil finds of the 1920’s by Roy
Chapman Andrews and the Central Asiatic
Expeditions. Within this area sometimes fossils lie
exposed on the desert surface. Gobi fossils tend to
be well-preserved, revealing minute details of life
during the Late Cretaceous Period – 80 million years
ago.
If they are of interest and you don’t mind extending your day, you can also stop to explore the the
preserved rock art petroglyphs in the hidden Khavtsgait valley.
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Bulgan
En-route to Bayanzag, stop at the small rural community of Bulgan. Bulgan itself is small, dusty and the
reality is you will probably feel rather underwhelmed by it. But this will be the centre of all activity for
the Thousand Camel Festival.
It is also home to the Ankh San Cooperative - a herder cooperative engaged in small-scale vegetable
growing and sustainable tourism. The dedicated head of the cooperative is Poli Tsedev and if someone is
on hand as you pass through, you will stop for a visit.
And to add perspective, if you have watched The Tale Of The Weeping Camel (a 2003
German documentary drama directed and written by Byambasuren Davaa and Luigi Falorni) this is the
small town that the two boys travel visit to locate the musician and to explore the delights of shopping.
Note On Accommodation at Bayanzag
At Bayanzag, we use the ger camp accommodation provided by the Gelegraash family. They are
grandparents - retired herders - and their granddaughter Baigali lives with them. Although they are
retired, they own a small herd of camels.
Their life is hard and their accommodation basic but although they are old, they love the freedom
of living their traditional life and living in a ger. They are one of few families living in the area who
offer ger accommodation. Again, this helps to supplement their way of life.
Their home is approximately 6km from the Flaming Cliffs site so you will have to visit by vehicle so either for sunset or sunrise depending on your arrival time.However, the area of ‘zag’ (Saxaul)
which gives the area its Mongolian name, is only a short walking distance from your ger
accommodation so can easily be explored.
Travel Details: Roughly 100km DG TO BG on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 3 hours driving time not
including time at the main sites)
Accommodation: Private ger, to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets no shower).
Meals: B/L/D
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Day Ten and Eleven - March 6th and 7th
The Thousand Camel Festival
The Thousand Camel Festival is an annual celebration held in the southern Gobi organised by a local NGO
to help protect the Bactrian camel and the essential role it plays in the lives of the nomadic herders in the
region. Mongolian people love a celebration and this comes across in the atmosphere. It's a celebration of
the way of life in the Gobi and a chance for the local herders to come together as a community at what
can be quite an isolating time of year (late winter / early spring). You will travel from your ger accommodation out to the community of Bulgan to join in with the daily
festivities. Don’t get caught up in notions of authenticity - the festival features a lot of local
involvement. The festival draws local Mongolian spectators as well as westerners and the locals are always
more enthusiastic.
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Travel Details: Short drives to and from festival
Accommodation: Private ger, to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets no shower).
Meals: B/L/D
Day Twelve - March 8th
Gobi Oasis Tree Planting
Travel to and explore the provincial capital of Mandalgobi
including enjoying an informal stay
with the family at the Gobi Oasis Tree Planting Project - a small, family run, non-profit conservation
project that has been operating since 1975.
You will stay as the guests of the founders of Gobi Oasis. Urnaa is their daughter-in-law and she will
be your main host together with her husband Chinbaatar. Enjoy spending time with the family at their
very comfortable ger homestay - helping to prepare your evening meal and playing a game or two of
very competitive ankle bones. You’ll also be able to enjoy a hot shower at the local town shower
house.
The main conservation work of Gobi Oasis is the planting of seedlings and nurturing them into trees.
Although trees in Mongolia have a long growing period (Mongolia, on average, experiences only 90-120
frost free days a year), within a couple of years and with constant care in their early development,
many will have become established. They help to bind the loose soil and thus are effective against
erosion, help reduce wind, dust and desertification, attract rainfall and help build suitable conditions
for biodiversity - all very important in the (increasingly) desert environment of Mandalgobi.
As it is March, there will not be an opportunity to plant a tree as the ground will be frozen solid.
You will still be able to visit the nursery.
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Travel Details: Roughly 350km BG to GO on asphalt and dirt road (approximately 7-8 hours driving time not
including lunch stop)
Accommodation: Private ger to share as EL group, Asian style long drop toilets, hot shower at the local town
shower house
Meals: B/L
Day Thirteen - March 9th
Ulaanbaatar
Drive back through the landscapes of the Middle Gobi to Ulaanbaatar. You won’t go into the city centre,
instead you will travel directly to Turuu’s home. Here you will be hosted this evening by his family in his
home that he built by himself in the ger districts.
Travel Details: Roughly 280km Mandalgobi to UB on asphalt road (approximately 6 hours driving time depending on
city traffic) and then short drives on Day Eight
Accommodation: Mattress on floor (Asian style long drop toilets, no showers)
Meals: B/L/D
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Uugantuya and Lkhagwadorj - Turuu’s son and daughter
Depart Mongolia
There are not typically any activities planned for this day unless pre-arranged - just a free transfer to the
train station or airport.
Please see the next page for details on our working style, your tour vehicle, the EL team and
inclusions and exclusions!
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What To Expect
Why this section? We’re not greedy. We don’t want to be all things to all people. I understand that our
trip style will not suit everybody and so this is a (very brief) introduction to what we offer. It is your
responsibility to check that our travel style suits you against your own expectations of a trip to
Mongolia. If you’re unsure, help and advice is plentiful and free. Please just get in touch.
We are not perfect. We make mistakes. But we genuinely know and love Mongolia and are willing and
eager to learn, develop and strengthen based on feedback from our guests and from all we work with.
If it helps, we get repeat custom.
Who Is EL?
Together with Turuu, my lead driver from when I first arrived in Mongolia 11 years ago, I have set up
our own small company. Supporting local is at the heart of what we do and is central to each trip we
offer.
This is ‘Boss One’ (me - Jess) and ‘Boss Two’ (Turuu).
We are not an ever-expanding group of travel
professionals. We are a small team of one westerner,
6 Mongolian drivers (including Turuu) and Mongolian
trip assistants working with a network of Mongolians.
Both of us still lead trips as we feel this helps us to
keep in touch with what’s happening in Mongolia. It
also means we understand the reality and the
challenges you face during your trip.
Supporting Local Through All Four Seasons
I wanted a business that put money back into the local
communities through which we travelled. I also
wanted a business that offered trips that were
sustainable and beneficial to Mongolia - its people,
culture and environment. This is not easy and
sometimes we fail on just how sustainable our trips
are. However, they are always of benefit to the local
communities.
A major part of my philosophy is to promote tourism
in Mongolia outside of July - peak-season. I feel it is
important to try and focus on tourism throughout the
whole year rather than just thinking about how much
money can be made in July.
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Solo Traveller? Private Group? Everyone Is Equal
Solo traveller? Looking for a tailor made trip?
Wanting to join a group trip? We try to focus on you
all as individuals. There are no single supplement
surprises and I try and make sure our prices are
similar whether its a private trip for two or a small
group adventure.
Our small group adventures operate with a maximum
of between 4 to 8 people.
If you’re looking for a type of trip that I feel we
can’t provide I will put you in touch with those that
can.
Your EL Team!
EL is about my love of Mongolia. It's also about my belief
in providing the chance to others - drivers and 'guides'
that other companies won't take as they don't fit the
stereotype. My business philosophy is not only to help
provide support to local Mongolians but also to provide
training and development opportunities to those who
want the opportunity to work in tourism but who don't
have the professional qualifications to work for our
larger competitors. Yes, it may get frustrating for you at
times but everyone needs to start somewhere and I’m
proud to be able to provide that starting block.
My Drivers – ‘The Boys’
My drivers are extremely proud of their country and have grown up understanding the Mongolian roads. They are of
the 'strong and silent' type – and their English will be limited. However, their role is to handle the Mongolian roads
and not to converse fluently in a multitude of languages. They are very adept at making a delicious Mongolian
barbecue and just great, all-round men.
My Trip Assistants – The Girls
My trip assistants are not professionally trained guides. Nor are they western educated fluent English speakers - they
have studied English to Mongolian university level. ‘The Girls’ may not know the answer to a question on politics or
Mongolia’s economic policy but they are local women who sincerely love their country and genuinely care about you
as our guests. In each vehicle is a series of 'guidebooks’ (tour files) written by me full of up to date facts on Mongolia
(I research and update these each winter) so if the girls don’t know an answer, it will probably be in ‘the book!’
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The Russian Furgon (UAZ) - Our Vehicle Of Choice
It has a high wheel-base, ample luggage space, a
sociable layout with forward and backward facing
seats, surround side windows and most importantly,
impressive off-road capability.
As is typical with all Furgons, due to the design of the
vehicle, seat-belts are not available but our Furgons
are fitted with grab handles in the passenger area.
(Each EL vehicle has it’s own simple mobile kitchen, its
own sunshade, a small library as well as a 220v
inverter/charger. You can also charge through the
cigarette lighter.
We only put a maximum of four EL guests per vehicle.
If you want to fly to each destination to increase your comfort levels it’s absolutely no problem – but
we don’t specialise in short 3 or 4 day trips which include a return flight.
Ger Accommodation
Families offer ger accommodation to help
supplement their income. Most are small rural
businesses providing extra accommodation. Some
accommodation is offered by herders, some is
offered by ‘retired’ herders who no longer
migrate, some by families that live in small town
communities and some by families that own small
ger camp businesses.
We do not offer exclusivity at the ger
accommodation so expect other western or
Mongolian visitors (especially in July). But, none of
us at EL like crowds of people so we work hard to
make sure you also have peace and solitude where
possible.
We don’t just use the family provided ger camps to help support the local community. They are often
located in beautiful areas or ‘closer’ (within easy walking distance) to the site you are visiting than
the larger tourist ger camps.
Ger Accommodation Continued Over
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• You can expect between one to six or so extra gers. Be prepared for a variety of standards. Please
remember that his is someone’s way of life and home and that they provide what they can in
relation to their circumstances.
• Most will have one Asian style long-drop/squat toilet which is shared by all. Very few families have
access to running water from a tap so when a shower is available it will be indicated in your
itinerary (a ‘bowl wash’ is always available). Throughout our trips, we make stops at the local town
shower houses – your own private cubicle with plenty of hot water.
• Beds will vary in comfort – most rural family members still traditionally sleep on the floor so don’t
really understand the concept of double memory foam mattresses! The long drop toilets are not
there to disgust you - this is what they use daily.
• You should have your own private ger either to share as an EL group (small group trip) or on your
own (tailor made trip).
Camping Trips
Please check your itinerary to see if there is any
camping.
When camping, we do not camp too close to family
gers as this intrudes on their privacy. However,
local life is only a short walk away. If you like
landscapes then you will love our campsites.
Where we think it is required, we include a
kitchen tent. If you are a solo traveller, we aim for
you to have your own tent with no single
supplement required but this cannot be
guaranteed.
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Each of our vehicles has a simple portable kitchen
as it offers you more freedom and flexibility as
we’re not reliant on anyone else to provide meals.
Meals
It also means we can have picnic lunches en-route
so as we prepare them you can be exploring the
local landscapes or sitting and taking in the view.
The only (potential!) down-side is that it’s not the
same as a modern well-equipped kitchen. Also, it’s I
and the trip assistants that prepare your meals and
we’re not professional chefs.
We buy as much fresh produce as possible but fresh
fruit is not available daily. Please remember where
you are and that there will be limitations as to what
we can provide.
We can provide for vegetarians and those with
dietary requirements but we are limited to what we
can purchase.
Most people travellers are keen to try dairy products. However, what dairy products are available
depends on the season in which you are travelling and also the amount of rainfall (herders limit the
amount of milk they take if there is a lack of rain as the livestock young are more reliant on their
mothers milk). If you eat meat, we try to include a Mongolian barbecue on each trip.
Meeting The Locals
None of the Mongolians we work with are tourism
professionals. Mongolians can be warm and welcoming
and they can also be taciturn, reserved and indifferent.
We do not try to change Mongolians or their way of life
for our/your own benefit or comfort. We don’t ask
them to change their daily schedule or to put on an
‘act’.
On your feedback, you will almost certainly comment
that you will wish you had more interaction with
nomadic families but their livestock and their family
life must come first. Reverse the situation for a
moment and think about the impact on your life if
visitors wanted to document everything about you.
Continued Over (nearly finished!)
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Travelling In Mongolia
There's a hunger for knowledge, understanding, and excellence that drives Mongolian society, and
things are changing quickly, but remember that a lot of major changes have happened within just a
couple generations. Be patient with Mongolia. While it works through the changes that are going to
make it better place, savour the gifts it offers and try to spend less time worrying about small issues
that aren't being met - such as hot showers or lack of western toilets. Remember, Mongolians are
living this life everyday through all seasons not just for a few weeks.
Mongolians are tough people and make living in their country look easy. But, Mongolia is not an easy
option – tourism is still in its infancy so there is only a rudimentary tourist infrastructure in place.
It’s actually quite refreshing but will be challenging for you.
As Jack Weatherford writes in Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World – ‘Compared to the
difficulty of daily life for the herders, living permanently in those areas, ours were only the smallest
of irritations.’
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Trip Cost
Details of the cost are in your email. Payable by credit card (in GBP), bank transfer (into our UK GBP
account or our Mongolian US$ account) or cash on arrival
Inclusions
•
Free (informal and relaxed) walking tour of Ulaan Baatar
•
EL team of driver and trip assistant and representative of Association Goviin Khulan
•
All meals as per itinerary (each EL vehicle has it’s own mobile kitchen – your EL team prepare your
meals for you using fresh and local produce maybe mixed with a lunch in a road-side ‘guanz’ for the
experience!). We also provide a variety of tea, Nescafe coffee and drinking water.
•
Private Furgon vehicle - each has its own small library
•
Each EL vehicle has its own sunshade – useful for damp or hot days when having lunch en-route. If
you are on early or late season trips, we may not use the sunshade due to the strength of the wind.
•
Each EL vehicle has its own 220v inverter/charger. You can also charge through the cigarette lighter.
Unfortunately, we can’t provide adaptors.
•
All entrance fees
•
Transfer to airport/train station on arrival and departure
•
Rural Naadam ticket
Exclusions
•
Accommodation in UB. Why? There is such a variety and everyone is different as to the standard
they prefer. I can provide ideas and help you to book.
•
Tips (but these are not mandatory or expected – a major part of my philosophy is to pay my EL team
well and they do not have to rely on tips to supplement their income).
•
Photography/filming charges at museums and monasteries etc
•
Short or day length horse or camel rides unless stated otherwise (between 5000-7000 per hour and
between 15000-30000 all day. You would be expected to pay for your horse/camel guide).
•
Ulaanbataar Naadam ticket and domestic flights unless mentioned otherwise
•
Laundry! Hand washing like the locals ☺
•
Snacks, alcoholic and soft drinks
Take The Train!
I support a small independent ticketing agency – Mongolian Train Tickets operated by Ganbayar
Davaajav. He specialises in train tickets on the Trans-Mongolian to Beijing or on the Trans-Siberian to
Irkutsk or Moscow. I charge no service fee or commission charge of my own and am happy to help you in
the bookin process. I can also make suggestions for train travel from Beijing to Ulaan Baatar. Please look
at the Trans Mongolian page on my website and get in touch!
Further information and advice can be found in my Pre-Departure Guidelines that should have sent
out with this itinerary. If you have not received these, or have any additional questions, please do
not hesitate to contact me!
Page 2
!7

Tsagaan Sar Insight 2017

Transcription

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