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BRIX:
An advanced degree of excellence
We have been heard to say on more than one occasion that Brix,
located in the heart of all the action just north of Yountville, is the
most quintessential wine country restaurant in the Napa Valley.
While there are many restaurants that possess some of what Brix
offers, none but Brix puts it together into such a total package.
When Outside: You can’t see it from Highway 29, but if you look
at the back cover of this magazine and the pictures on this page,
you will notice that you can opt to dine outside with a few awesome
companions - 16 acres of vineyards, Brix’ own vegetable and herb
gardens that supply the kitchen daily, and some spectacular
mountains. If you dine in the evening, sometimes the sunsets are
so beautiful that the colors alone can put you into an almost
transcendental mood – just as it should be when you are in
Paradise. There are few restaurants in the Valley offering you half
the viewing opportunity you have here. While Brix does all it can
to accommodate those who desire this experience, and can usually
make it happen after a short wait, we suggest you consider going in
the late afternoon for the bar menu, or early in the evening for
dinner, as reservations are not taken specifically for the patio.
When Inside: Napa Valley temperatures can be warm (but not
humid) during the day, or a bit chilly (large differences in day and
night temperatures are vital to great wine regions) in the evening,
so sometimes you might choose to dine inside. No disappointment
if you do as the restaurant has a warm and inviting atmosphere
capped off by its gorgeous private Wine Cellar dining room, and a
working fireplace next to which is our personal favorite table.
The Wine: You will no doubt notice as you enter that there is a
wine and gift shop on your left. Jeff Creamer, formerly of Rubicon
in San Francisco, is an excellent wine director who prides himself
on offering not only a serious 800 bottle wine list in the restaurant,
but a well stocked retail store as well. Both offer some of the best
labels in the Valley (including hard-to-find small lot wines), as well
as a unique Oakville Appellation only list. Here is also a good place
to try the Gold Medal winning Kelleher Cabernet Sauvignon and
Kelleher Sauvignon Blanc, which belong to, and are named after,
the family that owns Brix.
The Food: An A-lister is always at the helm of Brix’ kitchen, and
last year noted chef Chris Jones, who gained fame at Sonoma’s
popular The Girl and The Fig, took the reins as Executive Chef.
Serving French inspired California cuisine, Chris constantly
updates the menu based on what is seasonally available and enticing.
For our money, and if available, for dinner we would not want to
miss the cast iron mussels with Chardonnay and shallots; the wood
oven pizza of the day; the veal sweetbread roulade with black
trumpet mushrooms; the wild boar ragu over pasta; the pan roasted
sturgeon with cippolini onions and chorizo; or the beef ribeye with
truffled mac & goat cheese. Of course, if you can’t have it all, you
will have to make the tough choice between not only these winners,
but many other savory dishes.
The lunch menu is lighter, but no less scrumptious. The braised
octopus salad will surprise those who have not tried this delicacy,
and you might also consider the slow braised pork belly; the salt
cod brandade; the wood grilled lamb burger; or the wild mushroom
flatbread. Again, there are numerous other delicious options.
On Sundays Brix sets out the most talked about and popular
brunch in town. One of those“you have to see it to believe it” affairs.
For a very fair price of about $39.00 for adults and $18.50 for
children, you can consume all you want from stations containing
oysters, shrimp, clams, smoked salmon, eggs (Benedict or
scrambled), sausage, bacon, pancakes, French toast, pizzas, quiche,
Tri-tip (not a common term outside California, but it is excellent
beef ), an extensive salad bar, and numerous desserts.
The Bar: Open late, and with bartenders who are skilled at
suggesting the right wine or creating an often-sought-after-evenin-wine-country-cocktail, this is a place where locals and tourists
alike can hang out for bar food, the restaurant’s entire menu, or just
to enjoy the collegiality of the Valley.
The Management: If you have ever read our restaurant reviews,
you know that we believe no restaurant can offer a first class experience without superior supervision and a manager actually on the
floor. Manager Michael Cope himself is almost always present and
when he is not, an able assistant is in sight and keeps things at the
high level required by the Kelleher family. In fact, if you are lucky
you might even meet the beautiful and talented Valerie Kelleher
Herzog, who is a hands-on owner with enough savvy to know she
has the right staff running things on a day to day basis.
Conclusion: As we said at the outset, you can find some of what
Brix offers elsewhere, but often not as good, and never in such a
complete combination. You won’t be surprised to know that reservations are pretty much a must for weekends and evenings in season, but a good idea at all times, especially during highly popular
dining hours. We recommend you not miss this wonderful experience. The real beauty is that you can visit at any time of day,
because once the restaurant opens at 11:30, it does not close until
after last call at night. See you there.