The styles of NAARI

The styles of
NAARI
By Siddhali Doshi
Abstract
Naari, a Hindi word that translates into the daughter of Eve. This project talks about the
evolution of women’s fashion since the 1960’s decade and focuses on the changing
elements through the next 5 decades.
The data for the research has been collected from secondary sources, such as blogs,
journal articles, company websites and online libraries; along with primary data like
questionnaires and observations. This data would be used to identify a recurring style
that has been consistent for over 50 decades and up till contemporary times.
Building on this foundation, the project will highlight on my interpretation of the style
that continues to push boundaries, through photos and styling.
Fashion Evolution
1960
1970
1980
1990
2000
Work Wear
Casual Wear
Evening Wear
Party Wear
Red Carpet
Dresses
Bottom Wear
Top Wear
Skirts
Prints
Colours
Details
Culture
Bohemian
Androgyny
Recurring Style- Androgyny
Designer Interpretations
Why are you dressed like a boy? Girls don’t wear tie!
No, you don’t hear that anymore. Androgyny which once was quite a game changer, is
like a cup of our morning coffee now. We sport androgynous looks everyday, be it
knowingly or not. Just the balance of masculine/feminine elements vary.
Broad tie, padded shoulders, culottes, cropped trousers, thick lapels, bomber jacket,
leather, boxy silhouettes, and brogues are all a few key micro-trends of Androgyny.
Androgyny has been around for many more decades than 5, but the real shift came in
Coco Chanel’s time when her androgynous designs became a rage. Designers and
influencers since then have picked up masculine elements and mixed them with female
attributes.
Annie Hall, YSL’s Le Smoking, Calvin Klein Jeans, punk culture, Gucci, Grace Jones,
Agyness Devyn and Helmut Lang were the major game changers.
André Courrèges
French designer,
André Courrèges,
majorly known for
the invention of
miniskirts and Gogo boots, also
largely shaped
the Androgynous
style in the 60’s.
For Andre,
Androgyny was all
about boxy
silhouettes and
geometric cuts
with structured
tailoring. Stripes,
panels and
patchwork pockets
were part of his
garment detailing.
Yves Saint Laurent
The famous Le
Smoking tuxedo
suit was invented
in 1966 and
since then YSL
has taken a very
formal approach
to Androgynywith pinstripes,
three piece suits,
bows, ties and
crisp white shirt.
Although strictly
tailored, the
tuxedos were
made in slight
curves to
compliment the
female body.
Emanuel Ungaro
With a very
casual and an
ultra-feminine
take on
Androgyny,
Emanuel Ungaro
playfully mixes
prints and
patterns- floral
and pinstripes,
polka dots, floral
and stripes.
The designer’s
signature is the
balloon-ish
silhouettes that
embrace elements
like flared pants,
puffed shoulders
and variations of
leg of mutton
sleeves.
Calvin Klein
Changing the
face of
Androgyny in
1970’s was
Calvin Klein with
a very casual
and sexy
approach.
Straight fit jeans
paired with tees,
tops and shirts
became the
popular power
dressing styles in
the era’s that
followed, so
much so, that
contemporary
times depend on
this look.
Kenzo
Bringing in
Japanese
elements to
Androgyny,
Kenzo’s designs
are relaxed,
opting for not-toofitted silhouettes.
The designer
plays with the
traditional female
drapes and the
structure of suits.
The Japanese
influences are also
evident in the fall,
print and deconstructed cuts of
the garments.
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren’s
Androgyny is like
men’s silhouettes
and patterns put
into women’s
wear lines with
refined
elegance.
With mostly
corporate
masculine-ish
ensembles, the
patterns are
loose and
straight. Few
signature
elements include
broad shoulders,
broad ties,
waistcoats and
striped shirts.
Vivienne Westwood
Raw and
unconventional
was Vivienne
Westwood’s
Androgynous
way. Punk and
grunge-rock
dominated the
collections while
deconstruction
ruled all her
designs.
Now, Vivienne
Westwood Red
Label continues
to play with
deconstruction,
asymmetry and
outlandish
designs.
Issey Miyake
Relaxed and
easy silhouettes
and yet ample
amount of drama
is Issey Miyake’s
way.
Making east
meet west, the
androgynous
pieces have
eastern feminine
elements added
to boy-ish
designs. The
detailing in the
pieces like
fringed hems,
patches and
stiches is what
makes the pieces
so unique.
Moschino
The drama and
fun is enormous.
The designs are
incredibly
humoristic.
Androgyny at
Moschino’s comes
in with a playful
spirit, like
everything else
that is Moschino.
The silhouettes
are typical
androgynous like
three piece suits,
ties and lapels
only spiced up
with amusing
prints and mixed
cultural
influences.
Dolce & Gabbana
Androgyny never
had so much of
balance between
masculine and
feminine as much
as Dolce &
Gabbana
created,
renaming power
dressing as erotic
power.
Shirts, pants, ties,
tuxedos all in
lace, sheer and
floral; the
silhouettes being
curvaceous and
sexy.
Gucci
Bold colors and
lean silhouettes
dominate the
Gucci androgyny.
From velvet, satin
to brocade the
textures are vast
but the suits
remain formal.
Even though
different creative
heads (from
Guccio Gucci to
Alessandro
Michele) have
taken over as the
decades past,
the electric colors
and sleek fall
has been around.
Balmain
Balmain brought
a very Grunge
approach to
Androgyny with
studded leather
jackets, heavy
embellishments
that included
metallic chains
and military style
detailing.
Low waist pants,
strong shoulders,
shiny textured
fabrics, all in all
very bold and
sexual power
dressing is what
the brand
presented.
Tom Ford
Leather,
sequins and
sheer is the
highlight of
Tom Ford’s
androgyny.
The designs
are certainly
masculine
inspirations,
but ensembles
remain sexy
and rebellious
topped with
enough drama
to turn it into
party wear.
Haider Ackermann
Deconstruction is
the center piece
chandelier of
Haider
Ackermann’s
designs.
Offbeat
androgynous
patterns are
mixed with his
ravishing art of
bows and
drapes. The
colors range
from earthy
tones to bright;
and in spite of
the twists the
silhouettes are
structured.
Christian Dior
A brand like
Dior, who has
constantly gone
through new
creative head’s
design aesthetics,
has certainly
maintained a
few elements
well that include
elegance, clean
patterns, straight
silhouettes and
slight bit
theatricals.
Androgyny at
Dior’s comes with
equal charm with
mixed approach
to prints, fabrics
and cultures.
Indo-Western Androgyny
Re-interpreted Androgynous fashion
(Images attached)
Thank You