The Beauty`s Inside Issue 3 HERE

Transcription

The Beauty`s Inside Issue 3 HERE
THE
BEAUTY’S
INSIDE
A UNIQUE COLLABORATION BETWEEN
LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION AND HMP SEND
ISSUE 03
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
Editor
Julia Robson
Graphic Designer
Lauren Chalmers
Project Manager
Lauren McKirdy
Acting Media Relations and
Communications Manager
Lynsey Fox
CONTRIBUTORS
HMP Send
Amie, April, Charlie, Charlotte, Chloe, Claire, Delon, Diana, Ellen, Emma, Frieda, Jane, Jennifer E,
Jennifer P, Keeley, Maria, Maxine, Samantha, Tammy, Taneita, Tanya, Tatiana, Tia, Victoria, Yasmin
London College Of Fashion
Fiona Anderson, BA(Hons) Fashion Journalism
Danielle Fowler, BA(Hons) Fashion Journalism
Laura Saxton, BA(Hons) Creative Direction for Fashion
Olexandra Solomka, MA History and Culture of Fashion
Eleanor Vousden, BA(Hons) Fashion Journalism
Ernela Vukaj, BA(Hons) Fashion Journalism
*Sir John Cass’s Foundation is an
independent grant making charity that
supports a wide range of educational
With special thanks to
Sir John Cass’s Foundation
Kevin Everett, Treasurer & Chairman, Sir John Cass’s Foundation
Alderman Dr Ray Ellis, Deputy Treasurer and Chairman of Grants, Sir John Cass’s Foundation
Richard Foley, Deputy Chief Executive, Sir John Cass’s Foundation
establishments, which bear the name of
the Founder, special educational projects,
Welcome to the third issue of The Beauty’s
Inside, a unique collaboration between
London College of Fashion and HMP Send.
Once again, this is funded by Sir John Cass’s
Foundation* and represents several months of Tuesday
‘workshops’ where participants from Send and LCF work
together to brainstorm ideas, many of which have ended
up on the pages of this award winning magazine.
This project has seen guests from the fashion
Professor Frances Corner, OBE, Head of London College of Fashion
Claire Swift, Director of Social Responsibility, London College of Fashion
industry rock up and tell tales of life and label love in
the clothing world. Read about fashion designer and
including those focussing on prisoner
education, as well as grants and bursaries
for students in London.
Dave Charity, Acting Governor of HMP Send
Kelly Nethercoat, Head of Reducing Reoffending
Jason Oakley-Cleife, Resettlement Officer
Andy Peacock, Head of Security & Operations
lecturer, Basia Szkutnicka, and her beauty survival tips,
and why fashion and horticulture have a lot in common
by someone who really knows, fashion historian and
LCF’s brilliant Creative Director, Tony Glenville.
The Foundation takes its name from Sir
John Cass (1661-1718) who was a City of
London Politician and Philanthropist. It is
pleased to be supporting this publication
and to have been involved in this award
winning project from its inception in 2009.
Glynis Maher, BA: People Hub
Vivian Elliott, BA: Security
Basia Szkutnicka, Study Abroad Director, London College of Fashion
Camilla Butler, Special Projects Manager, London College of Fashion
Carl Stanley
Deborah Bee and Harrods Magazine
Tony Glenville, Creative Director London College of Fashion
www.catwalking.com
Photography
David Anthony assisted by Neil Parkes
Orsolya Luca, BA (Hons) Fashion Photography
Alina Negoita, BA (Hons) Fashion Photography
All the HMP minibus drivers, everybody working on the gate at HMP Send
and all the officers who helped during workshops and photoshoots.
Printed by HMP Coldingley Printshop
I like fashion because I like to
be unique. I don’t want to look
like anyone else. It’s a way for
me to express my personality.
expression at Send); the first photoshoot is dedicated
to hair styling and photographed by fashion legend,
David Anthony. Later in the project, professional hair and
make-up artist, Carl Stanley, visited Send and was ably
assisted by the team of talented Send hairstylists, which
ultimately resulted in the p38 feature on hair colour.
LCF students felt very much at home in Send given its
fashion sensibility, and during our workshop sessions,
fashion remains our starting and finishing point. Being all
about reflecting change, it’s a great vehicle for motivation
towards self-change. In the words of Head of LCF,
Frances Corner, “What we wear tells the story of who we
We also explored a fashion theme currently trending on
the international catwalks: ambisexual androgyny, a blurring
of male and female style. And last but by no means least,
we used clothes from the Sendsation (great choice of name
by the way) boutique to demonstrate the power of pre-loved
fashions. LCF students too spend a lot of time in charity
shops when it comes to wardrobe building….
There are lots of new arrivals at Send, from the
clothing items constantly refreshing the offer at
Sendsation, passed in via the team at Send’s Sue Ryder,
to the latest blooms in the Send gardens (loving the
eucalyptus) now that produce is being grown for Clink
are or who we want to be…Fashion deserves to be taken
seriously, warts and all, and celebrated for its beauty,
restaurants, and shrubs to provide local florists with
foliage. Then there’s the resident ducks, chickens (49
creativity and entrepreneurial spirit. Fashion has been
and always will be a constant part of our existence. Why?
Road Island Reds housed in fabulous shocking pink
Eglus), 60,000 Buckmaster bees and the cats. In fact,
there’s so much happening at Send - crucially so many
positive options available to prisoners for dealing with
sentences and working towards a bright future, here we
merely attempt to capture some of it.
Because fashion really does matter.”
In the magazine we also examine and discuss issues
closest to the hearts of Send residents, from long
distance relationships to the sheer diversity of women
here. However, the highlight of the weekly sessions were
undoubtedly two photo shoots (with thanks to Send’s
Acting Governor, Dave Charity, and Head of Security,
Andy Peacock, for allowing cameras to be brought in for
this…and Kelly Nethercoat and Jason Oakley-Cliefe for
coordinating). Thanks also to Lorraine in the Send hair
salon, (hair rating equally highly as an outlet of self-
To those who showed us their art, textiles, clothing and
writing, we say, keep doing it. Feel something is missing in
this issue? Come along to the next project and sound us
out. But for now, enjoy your magazine.
JR, editor
- MARIA
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THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
CONTENTS
Horti-Couture
Sendsation
Time For A Change?
Why Does Fashion Matter?
Being Inspired By Basia Szkutnicka
Androgyny
Androgynous [An-droj-uh-nuh s]
The ‘Isms’ In Fashion
My Fashion Story
Hair Warrior
Hairstory
3
8
14
16
20
22
30
32
33
34
38
Beauty Survival
Strike A Pose
Artist Profile: Tony Corner
Long Distance Relationships
The Day Gay Marriage Became Legal
Do You Speaka My Language
Artist Profile: Mary Branson Clark
Book Reviews
Top 10’s
Theraputic Community
Activities At Send
40
42
44
46
47
48
50
52
53
54
55
HORTI-COUTURE,
‘GARDENISTAS’,
CLUCKING HENS
AND THE GREEN
SHOOTS OF COMMERCE
SPROUTING AT SEND
BY ELEANOR VOUSDEN
BEING INSPIRED BY BASIA SZKUTNICKA
20
ANDROGYNOUS [AN-DROJ-UH-NUH S]
30
HAIRSTORY
38
DO YOU SPEAKA MY LANGUAGE
48
DEVIKA RATTU
- BA (HONS) FASHION DESIGN TECHNOLOGY: SURFACE TEXTILES
SOFIA ILMONEN / DANIEL SERVICE
- BA (HONS) FASHION DESIGN TECHNOLOGY: WOMENSWEAR
ANDROGONY
22
PHOTOGRAPHY KASIA WOZNIAK
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THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
“Florals? For spring?
Ground breaking.”
As we remember the
infamous words uttered
by The Devil wears
Prada’s wicked glossy
magazine editor,
Miranda Priestley, it
turns out fashion has long
had its roots in gardening
and horticulture.
Soil and Céline? Pruning and Prada? ‘Horticulture’ and
‘fashion’ are two words you won’t normally find together.
But a glance at recent designer collections (and not just
during the fertile spring/summer season either) shows
trends which originate in the garden.
When do the international fashion houses of Dolce and
Gabbana, Christian Dior, Erdem or Alexander McQueen
not use the great outdoors as inspiration?
The Spring/Summer 2014 runways blossomed with
botanical prints and bristled with environmentalthemed embroideries. Tropical palm prints and floral
blooms appeared not just on clothes but on entire
catwalk sets at Hermés and Dior; while silk petals
fluttered on John Rocha’s catwalk. Christopher Kane
took a more scientific approach to the floral trend,
using annotated flower diagrams laser cut on tops and
dresses to graphically SPELL OUT why horticulture is so
important. “We live because of flowers and trees,” the
Scottish designer explained. “They produce oxygen. But
we take them for granted.”
Indeed, as with runway clothes, the amount of
attention and care that goes into nurturing plants is
so often forgotten as HMP Send’s resident gardening
expert, Frank, can testify. Frank, one of the tutors on
the horticultural course at Send prison, where up to 50
how to best grow your own fruit, vegetables, trees, shrubs
– the list is endless. He also reveals how every year at
Send there is a chilli eating competition – for the brave
only. Learning how to grow and nurture plants requires
consideration about everything from numeracy to basic
science skills.
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
01
One of Tom Ford’s Private Collection scents inspired by
the designer’s love for “damp garden soil first thing in
the morning.”
03
Being creative with horticulture is very much at the
heart and soul of Send, agrees Norman from Grounds
Maintenance who explains, “We grow many varieties of
plants and vegetables here from sweet peas, dahlias,
nigellas and cabbages to carrots, chilli peppers and
lettuce.” Send’s position, being as it is, out in the
sticks, has harvested an exciting recent development:
a collaboration with The Clink Charity, whose aim is
to reduce re-offending rates by training and placing
graduates upon release into the hospitality industry.
As a result HMP Send will be increasing its growing
productivity in 2014. Following the refurbishment and
investment in eight new poly tunnels and a new stand pipe
system that allows soil to be watered on a timer at night,
vegetables are to be grown for Clink’s three restaurants at
HMP Brixton in London; HMP High Down and HMP Cardiff.
Set in six picturesque acres, bordered by lime trees
and boasting a stunning wild flower meadow, Send is
very proud of its gardening heritage and more recently its
produce: from brilliant pink hollyhocks and deep purple
snapdragons, to evergreen foliage, and now even free
range eggs. On any day, rain or shine, at Send you’ll find
an army of green fingered women often in green prison
uniform, working in the gardens.
Choice of clothing can be a subconscious decision
influenced by our surroundings and the harmonious
synergy between fashion and horticulture changes
according to the season. It was Charles Worth, the British
designer attributed to the founding of Parisian haute
couture in 1860, who first had the bright idea to create
two fashion ‘seasons’ (spring summer and autumn winter)
inspired by Mother Nature. As the leaves turn darker, so
do our wardrobes. When flowers bloom, so too prints on
our clothes transform into the brightest of colours and
“We live because of
flowers and trees...But we
take them for granted.”
02
patterns. Beyond even catwalk trends, fashion’s very
roots in terms of textiles (think of cotton, jute, kapok,
hemp, linen etc.) lie in nature.
- CHRISTOPHER KANE
This link was recently explored during an exhibition
entitled Fashion and Gardens, at the Garden Museum in
Lambeth, South London, which included a collaborative
exhibit by London College of Fashion students. Gardens
began to mirror fashion and vice versa as far back as the
17th century, according to curator Nicola Shulman, sister
Clink will advise on what to grow and how to manage
the produce with the idea to create dishes on the menus
resulting in fresh, flavoursome and seasonal food
to the editor of British Vogue. “It was about the control
of nature. So you actually reduce nature to the most
being served. A full-time gardener trainer will oversee
the prisoners’ training and delivery of the City & Guilds
decorative art,” she explains. The show featured fashion
pieces designed by Valentino, Alexander McQueen and
horticulture qualifications. It is hoped up to 25 women
will have a chance to study horticulture to a NVQ Level
Christopher Bailey, amongst others, to show how gardens
have inspired clothes. From the intricate metalwork of
04
2. There will also be more chance for women on a
lower level NVQ to join the Clink project and be trained
with a practical skill that can be used when finding
employment upon release, as well as learning about
something inspiring for commercial use.
05
Renaissance wrought iron gates right through to dresses
mimicking petals and plants.
LCF students also created garments using natural
fabrics, plant-based dyes and pattern-cutting
As with any activities, any prisoners interested should
techniques to minimise wastage. All the processes aimed
to place the environment and sustainability at the core of
their designs.
put in an application to the activities board that meet
every Wednesday. Any issues raised will be examined
and provided the board sees no concern, names will go
on a list. The criteria being that you would be expected to
01
JOHN ROCHA, READY TO WEAR SS14
women work the gardens, reminds us how crucial science
is to the planning, sowing, maintaining and harvesting
Flowers are more crucial to big name designers
today than ever before. Where would most perfumes be
without the scent of flowers? More importantly, where
of plants. “On the horticulture course you can learn to
test the pH levels of different soils,” he explains. “On my
would big fashion houses be without perfume sales,
which - along with make up and accessories - account
travels – and this makes me sound very sad - I always
bring back soil samples from that area to test.” This
for a huge percentage of profits? Take Paco Rabanne’s
best selling Lady Million perfume, which has neroli,
knowledge is essential as it enables you to understand
gardenia, hyacinth and lily of the valley as its main notes.
4
show up and work hard (i.e. don’t sit around sunbathing).
It’s hoped a prisoner on day release will transport goods
in a refrigerated van to the restaurants. >
02
CHRISTOPHER KANE, READY TO WEAR SS14
03
ANA CATARINA RODRIGUES
- MA FASHION AND THE ENVIRONMENT
MINIMIZING THE WASTE OF THE DESIGN PROCESS,
DEVELOPING NEW PATTERN CUTTING TECHNIQUES
AND USING SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS TO CREATE A
SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION.
04/05
GARDENS AT HMP SEND
5
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
> Ultimately, Send hope to grow vegetables for use in
its own kitchens and even to supply local restaurants one
day. “We are mindful of all the activities we introduce,”
says Barry, resettlement manager. “The Clink project
will provide women with insight into growing their own
vegetables and becoming more independent. Our ethos is
always to maintain the re-building of confidence and selfesteem. We want to provide women with skills that are
industry recognised and can be utilised around childcare
arrangements. To show them, in growing food for the
table, digging, planting and nurturing, you don’t need a
man!” Earlier this summer, Lady Caroline Ergemont and
the Monument Foundation provided funds to plant a lot of
shrubs, used in bouquets for flowers. Local florists were
also invited in to advise on what flowers to grow.
(i.e. not domestic) cats. “We know they are happy because
the food we leave out goes,” explains Barry. In addition to
cats - not forgetting our resident duck families - there are
two new hives with 60,000 buzzy Buckmaster bees set up
by Edwina Wardle, purely for conservation purposes and
to provide Send with honey – to provide prisoners with an
education into the art of bee keeping. Kitchen manager
Richard, promises honey-laden cakes will be on the menu
soon. And no one has been stung…yet.
Cut flowers are very fragile and you’ve got to consider
quick and consistent transport to shops. However, the big
demand for hardy shrubs, which don’t require such TLC,
sees shades of green producing a beautiful backdrop to
Of course, HMP Send has formerly exhibited their
gardening creativity in themed pop-up garden spaces at
the historic Loseley House garden show in Surrey. Every
year a new theme is allocated to exhibitors, in which they
have four days to prepare ideas and make the garden
itself. Past themes have included the senses, where the
team from Send planted vibrant herbs and displayed wind
chimes to evoke a dual-sensory experience for visitors.
One year the theme was Japan, where the team created a
golden oriental garden alongside a wall of rich, terracotta
the spectacular show of lupins, dahlia, pinks and sweet
peas etc. with exotic names like Black Fire, Arabian
flowers. Another included the 150th anniversary of the
English composer Sir Edward Elgar (1857-1934 of Pomp
Nights and Autumn Lustre.
and Circumstance fame). “In the garden we had a piano,
a treble clef-shaped path made from crushed CDs and
music-themed flower beds,” Norman reminds us.
Talking of shocking pink, this summer also saw the
delivery of 49 Rhode Island Red chickens housed in five
pink coups. Pink to match the wheelbarrows to brighten
up the place. These are all happy hens, all female, who
will be producing free-range eggs, again for the Clink
Whatever happens next on the catwalk, we predict
Autumn/Winter 2014 at HMP Send florals will be big and
plentiful. Here, green, as they say, is the new black.
“The garden and fashion creatives is
very strong; Sam McKnight (one of the
most famous session and catwalk hair
stylists in the world) places as many
images of his garden on Instagram as
he does of his work at Chanel or across
the globe. The gardens at Chateau de
Wideville of Mr Valentino are his pride and
joy (even if he does not actually dig the
exquisite flower beds himself!).
HELLO DUCKY
BY ELLEN
Stephen Jones and many other
milliners, like Philip Treacy (he of turkey
twizzler/Royal Wedding princesses
Beatrice and Eugenie fame) are inspired
by flowers in their creations and the links
between the late Christian Dior’s eternally
romantic place at Granville where the
gardens are as haunting as those of
(Monet’s water lilies at) Giverny, and his
flower strewn embroideries has certainly
been captured in the 21st century by Raf
Simons. Simons’ very first Christian Dior
haute Couture collection in 2012 was
shown in rooms lined in blossoms and
blooms from his favourite Belgian florist.
Then you have Yves Saint Laurent and
the exotic gardens of Marrakesh (which
are said to have inspired the craze for
colleting cacti in the Sixties), and Ralph
restaurants, and ultimately for HMP Send kitchen. And
because of a problem with rodents, they have been joined
by two cats, that arrived from the Cats Protection League.
One is a British Blue, grey shorthaired cat. Both are feral
Lauren (who built a fashion empire out
of ‘Le Style Anglais’ which grew from a
gardening uniform in the 17th century)
insists on displays of oversize opulent
fin de siècle flowers gracing his stores
around the world.
Meanwhile what is the fashionable
fragrance du jour? Anything that smells
‘freshly picked’ of course, like Mary
Greenwell’s Lemon; Crabtree & Evelyn
new Verbena & Lavender de Provence
collection, or one of Tom Ford’s Private
Collection inspired by the designer’s
love for “damp garden soil first thing in
the morning.”
- TONY GLENVILLE,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR, LCF
Down on E and F we’ve had some very welcome
attractions that have become welcome distractions
for all of us. Little bundles of joy and their amazing
- but slightly crazy - mother have been enlightening
us daily with their antics.
What is astonishing for me is how quickly they have
learned to wrap us around their little wings. The way
they waddle over to the benches, making their little
grunting and squeaking sounds, gazing up at you
with their innocent brown eyes.
Shake a cereal bag and they hurtle along the ground,
like fluffy balls of lightening, sometimes stumbling
over in their efforts to get to the food.
Another highlight that’s played out more than
once is Battle Of The Worm! One tiny duckling will
pluck a worm from the ground only to then become
embroiled in a tug of war with its siblings. The
chase, as they run after each other can only be
described as a scene from The Benny Hill Show,
01
02
6
01
BEEHIVES
and is met by a chorus of laughter from onlookers.
02
GREENHOUSE AT SEND
The highlight of my summer? Abso – ducky – lutely.
7
Send’s in-house clothing shop guarantees
street smart swagger in an ocean of hues. From
battered denim, to sporty cotton jersey, don’t
be put off by the pre-loved status of separates.
Think of it as a renewable wardrobe.
PHOTOGRAPHY ORSOLYA LUCA
STYLING LAURA SAXTON
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE SENDSATION
BOUTIQUE
BY DANIELLE FOWLER
‘Sendsations’, the prison boutique
stocking ‘pre-loved’ clothing at Send,
seems to have a negative stigma sewn
into its many donated labels. Yet it’s
hard to understand why?
Rather than catering to just one type of
person, the shop stock mirrors the very
diverse prison community. “We cater for
everyone,” explains Ellen, a prisoner who
works here. “Send is made up of women
of many different ethnicities, sexual
orientation and social backgrounds,” she
tells me. “All these characteristics are
reflected in their personal style. We’ve
even got a wide variety of both male and
female clothing.”
What’s more, the shop also has plenty
confidence and freedom is something the
boutique strives for along with surprise.
“Is that really from Sendsations?” is
a frequent gasp to be heard at Send.
And one echoed throughout our photoshoot showcasing clothes from the shop.
The fact is, it doesn’t matter where the
garment is from. Or, whether it is on-trend
or not. “With the right styling you can
make it your own,” advises Ellen, adding
this is something shop staff are always
happy to help out with. “I’ve become much
of options for the inevitable personal
change that so many women undergo
more confident in helping pick clothes out
for people ever since I’ve seen first hand
whilst in prison; change which can lead to
an about-turn in sartorial choice. This is a
what change can bring. I really enjoy it!”
particular Sendsations strength. “When
I had clothes sent in, my mum tended
to buy more feminine clothing but I’ve
changed so much whilst in prison,” Ellen
goes on. “I’ve become freer and more
expressive within my fashion.”
An appointment can be made once
a month. This includes the opportunity
simply to have a browse without any
pressure to buy. Although you may find
Ellen might simply ask you to just give
something a chance. Why not come and
have a rummage? Finders keepers.
The irony of finding such freedom in
prison of all places is outweighed by
the self-discovery and positive effects
that a clothing makeover can bring to an
individual. “Before working at the shop
I would wear a hat pulled down over my
eyes to hide myself,” Ellen confesses.
PRICELIST
Tops
Bottoms
£1
£2
Shoes
£2.50
“Now, in contrast, I’ll choose a hat to
accentuate my outfit.” This sense of
LCF STUDENT LAURA SAXTON MODELS ‘PRE-LOVED’
LOOKS ALL SOURCED FROM LOCAL CHARITY SHOPS
13
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
TIME FOR A CHANGE?
BY JENNIFER
2014 has been a difficult year for someone who enjoys a
bit of wardrobe refreshing when it comes to what to wear.
The end of hand-ins and lack of affordable mail order
catalogues means many of us are wearing clothes that
would have been binned at home.
We are lucky - of course! - to have
Re-sizing
threads, all different colours and sizes,
Sendsations for a bit of retail therapy
but unfortunately, if you are not quite a
standard size…or shape…or height, the
chances of finding something perfect
are slim (excuse the pun!).
One of the most common alterations we
take on is re-sizing clothing - particularly
jeans and trousers - because the prison
food does have a slight tendency to collect
around our waistlines. Letting out seams
is a quick job and even adding in an insert
(if you need more than an inch or so) can
be done in an afternoon.
and can carry out invisible repairs so that
you wont be able to tell the difference.
Happily, HMP Send can offer a solution
to many clothing dilemmas thanks to
our on site textile workshop operating
under the über perfectionist Jane. This
employs six prisoners as seamstresses,
For the conservative dresser we will
attempt to match the fabric so that the
We are really good at upcycling…
Whilst being able to repair your favourite
jeans is really useful, your options don’t
stop there. If you have a garment that you
just don’t wear, we can help you re-design
it (known as ‘upcycling’) so that it can stop
lurking at the back of your shelves.
all from varying backgrounds. Some
have developed through prison courses,
insert looks like part of the original design,
but for those with more flamboyant
A short skirt can be lengthened with
contrast fabric, a high neckline can be
hobby-sewing, working as professional
machinists and studying textiles at
personalities we can use contrast fabric
to create an impact. Your choice, although
adjusted to flatter your shape, sleeves
can be narrowed, shortened or just plain
school, or college. All the seamstresses
however, have one thing in common;
they are passionate about producing
outstanding work.
I say the brighter the better!
removed, loose tops or dresses can have
darts added to improve the fit and, for
those of you dedicated enough to hit the
gym on a regular basis, we can even turn
jeans into a miniskirt!
What happens in the textiles workshop?
The textiles workshop produces a range
Another common alternation is changing
the fit of trouser legs. Hands up anyone
who still has a pair of bootcut jeans
hanging about (hangs head in shame!) We
can tailor trouser legs to provide a much
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD INSPIRED DRESS ALTERATION BY EMMA
What are you waiting for…
of goods such as bags and cushion covers
for sale to the general public, but its most
more trendy look.
If you feel inspired to re-vamp your
clothes come and visit us on any
important role is in offering alterations
and adjustments, as well as basic repairs,
One problem that can also be laid to rest is
broken zips, worn backside or thigh areas
afternoon on free-flow. Remember, the
only thing between you and a brand new
for prisoner clothing at a reasonable cost.
on jeans. We have a huge range of zips and
style is your imagination. See you soon.
COMMON ALTERATIONS GUIDE PRICE
Shorten
Taper legs
£1
£2
New zip
Repaired holes/rips
£2
50p
Take in at the waist
Let out/enlarge
£1.50
£2
Re-style
14
£2
15
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
Claire Swift, Director of Social Responsibility
at London College of Fashion puts the question
to women at HMP Send.
WHY
DOES
FASHION
MATTER?
BY CLAIRE SWIFT
Professor Frances Corner, Head of London College
of Fashion, recently published a book called Why
Fashion Matters, that questions and highlights
some of the (many!) issues and debates surrounding
fashion: the industry, its history and how it affects
The Rana Plaza disaster in April 2013 had a
catastrophic effect on the industry. The collapse of
the factory claimed over 1,000 lives, a significant
death toll that equates to some of the more recent
casualties of war. The epic scale of this tragedy has
the people that are so involved in its creation.
prompted the fashion industry to look at its practice
and the politics of garment manufacture.
Why does fashion matter? Is it something that
should matter to everyone? Is everyone really
interested in fashion? Is everyone allowed an opinion
on why fashion matters? And no matter how big - or
small - how meaningful, how insincere… is there
need for this opinion?
We cannot underestimate the effects of fashion
within society, or the messages that it sends
out as it becomes more intertwined with music,
popular culture or politics. As fashion becomes
more influential, so too will celebrities and fashion
models the world over use their position to challenge
and voice opinions on foreign affairs, public health
campaigns or world politics.
The fashion industry’s primary purpose is to
tell us all about what the next big trend is; what is
considered to be stylish, attractive and acceptable
(to those who care to follow). Fashion always invites
So what does fashion mean to women in prison?
an opinion - and a reaction. It can create an emotive
response to a situation within our lives. Our celebrity
Does fashion matter to the 5% of the UK’s prison
population made up of women? Ultimately,
driven culture now means that everyone will have
an opinion somewhere on the planet, whether
fashion has the ability to define an individual and
can persuade society what they should believe in,
serious or not. We remember events through the
eyes of fashion. Remember the Swarovski dress that
Rihanna wore to the Council of Fashion Designers
of America (CDFA) awards that barely covered her
modesty? Everyone had an opinion about that dress!
It prompted reactions across the globe, both positive
and negative.
aspire towards or emulate. Yet it also highlights
some of the very real issues that they have to
face that most of us take for granted. Fashion can
provoke memories of childhood and times that were
more happier and more positive.
In truth, fashion matters because it has this effect
on everyone. Fashion permeates our everyday lives
and has a subliminal connection to the world that
When I asked some women at HMP Send if fashion
matters, and if so how - and why - the overwhelming,
overall, defining answer came back, ‘YES!’ It does
matter because it gives back a sense of self.
Fashion allows women to express themselves in an
we live in. The same way in which history affects us,
so too do some of the events that take place in the
environment where they are identified only by their
crime. As one woman put it, “I have spent so long
fashion world which can change our thoughts and
opinions on everything around us.
trying to be myself.” The fact that fashion helps on
the long road to rehabilitation surely means that…
FASHION MATTERS.
BOO PALA
- BA (HONS) FASHION DESIGN TECHNOLOGY: SURFACE TEXTILES
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES REES www.jamesrees.co.uk
17
WHY DOES FASHION MATTER TO YOU? IT MATTERS TO ME BECAUSE I CAN BRING OUT
MY IDENTITY IN WHAT I AM WEARING! I CAN MAKE A STATEMENT.
IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN A BIG PART OF MY LIFE. I REMEMBER WHEN
WE WERE YOUNG, WE WOULD DRESS UP ON SO MANY OCCASIONS:
SUNDAY SCHOOL, WEDDINGS, AND BIRTHDAYS…I AM FROM
GUIANA IN SOUTH AMERICA AND IT REALLY IS A PART OF OUR
CULTURE TO DRESS UP. IT GIVES ME A SENSE OF IDENTITY. I
LIKE FASHION BECAUSE I LIKE TO BE UNIQUE. I DON’T WANT TO
LOOK LIKE ANYONE ELSE. IT’S A WAY FOR ME TO EXPRESS MY
PERSONALITY. I’VE ALWAYS LOVED CLOTHES FOR AS LONG AS I CAN
REMEMBER. IT’S WITHIN ME. I’M JUST SO PASSIONATE ABOUT
FASHION. I LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT IT. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT FASHION? I JUST
LIKE CLOTHES! I LIKE TO LOOK GOOD AND FEEL GOOD! YOU CAN
LET YOURSELF GO. YOU CAN EXPRESS YOURSELF THROUGH WHAT
YOU ARE WEARING. IF I AM HAVING A BAD DAY OR A GOOD DAY,
YOU WILL SEE IT BY THE WAY I AM DRESSED. I LOVE HOW DIVERSE
IT CAN BE. ANYTHING WORKS, EVEN THINGS THAT DON’T WORK,
WORK! I LOVE THAT IT’S ALL ABOUT EXPRESSION. YOU CAN WEAR
WHAT EVER YOU FEEL LIKE WEARING, WHETHER THAT’S ABOUT
COMFORT OR BEING STYLISH. I LOVE THAT FASHION IS ALWAYS
CHANGING. IT GIVES YOU THE OPPORTUNITY TO MIX COLOURS
AND SHAPES. ONE LITTLE THING CAN CHANGE A LOT!
WHAT DO YOU HATE ABOUT FASHION? PEOPLE WHO JUST FOLLOW FASHION WITHOUT
ANY IDEA OF WHY THEY ARE WEARING IT. I DON’T LIKE THE WAY
THAT FASHION DOESN’T REALLY CATER FOR ALL SHAPES AND SIZES.
LOTS OF FASHION SHOPS DON’T CATER FOR MY SIZE, SO NOT
ALL FASHIONABLE CLOTHES ARE ACCESSIBLE IF YOU ARE OVER
A CERTAIN SIZE OR AN UNUSUAL SHAPE.
THAT WE LIVE IN A THROWAWAY SOCIETY. MAGAZINES PUT
PRESSURE ON YOUNG PEOPLE TO BUY INTO TRENDS. I’M A BELIEVER
IN QUALITY OVER QUANTITY. SOMETIMES YOU CAN BE JUDGED FOR
THE WAY YOU DRESS, ESPECIALLY IF IT ISN’T SOMEONE’S PERSONAL
STYLE AND I DON’T THINK THAT’S FAIR. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR FASHION STYLE?
I USE CLOTHES TO EXPRESS MY MOOD. FOR ME IT IS ABOUT HOW I
FEEL AND HOW IT MAKES ME FEEL, SO I DON’T HAVE A PARTICULAR
STYLE, IT COULD BE ANYTHING. I LIKE COLOURS AND PRINTS,
YET EQUALLY I CAN DRESS UP IN MASCULINE CLOTHES BUT
WITH A WOMANLY FEEL. UNIQUE. I WEAR WHAT MAKES ME FEEL
COMFORTABLE. I DON’T FIT INTO A CERTAIN FASHION CATEGORY
OR STEREOTYPE, I JUST WEAR WHAT I LIKE. PUNK-CHIC. I’M A
MODERN PUNK. FEMININE AND FLOATY. CREATIVE. HOW DOES FASHION MAKE YOU FEEL?
IT MAKES ME FEEL LIKE I AM ME! IF I AM WEARING THE RIGHT
CLOTHES IT MAKES ME FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH WHO I AM AND
THEN I FEEL MORE CONFIDENT. IT MAKES ME FEEL HAPPY. I CAN
WEAR WHAT I WANT! FASHION USED TO BE MY MASK. IN THE
PAST I WOULD HIDE BEHIND WHAT I WAS WEARING. NOW I DRESS
FOR MYSELF. FASHION ADDS TO MY CONFIDENCE AND MAKES
ME FEEL GOOD INSIDE. IN THE PAST, I HAD PRECONCEPTIONS OF
WHAT PEOPLE THOUGHT OF MY CLOTHING, BUT I’M NO LONGER AS
CRITICAL OF MYSELF. IF YOU COULD BE A FASHION ICON, WHO WOULD YOU BE AND WHY? I WOULDN’T
WANT TO BE AN ICON. I’VE SPENT SO LONG TRYING TO BE MYSELF.
I DON’T WANT TO BE ANYONE ELSE. LADY GAGA. SHE EXPRESSES
HERSELF HOW SHE WANTS, IN THE WAY SHE WANTS. SHE DOESN’T
CARE WHAT OTHER PEOPLE THINK. I LOVE ADELE. SHE IS NOT THE
SKINNY, MODEL SIZE. SHE HAS A FULL, CURVACEOUS FIGURE AND
SHE IS BEAUTIFUL.
Contributors Ellen, Delon, Tanya, Emma, Chloe, Tatiana, Maria, Keeley, Jane
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
BEING INSPIRED
BY BASIA SZKUTNICKA
Basia Szkutnicka came to Send to talk to us about her passion as a fashion
designer and fashion educator. And what better person to do it? Someone
to whom fashion is life and life is fashion. Although her name was not one I
immediately recognised, it is one I will remember from now on.
And here’s why…
BY EMMA
Born in Britain of Polish decent,
she initially told us how her family had
lost everything during World War II.
Her father, after being ‘thrown out’ of
Poland as a child and living in Africa,
eventually arrived as an immigrant in
the UK- and after working to survive
gained an education ‘to get a better
life’. As a child Basia had a deep-
one thing to lead into another.” She
even hired her own models, who
looked nothing like models at that
time, and it was all infused with a
sense of fun, something that would
later become her design signature.
rooted love for animals, especially
cats… she even wanted to be a cat!
her way in the fashion business, with
her mentor – the legendary Isabella
do and mend’.
Her mum made her a catsuit and for
two years Basia lived in it as if she
were a real cat.
Blow - backing her all the way and
nurturing her creativity. Ultimately,
she puts success down to just one
thing: “working hard” and being a nice
honest person.
A believer in sustainability, Basia
also buys clothes that do not go
out of fashion. To her, clothes and
behaviour are combined. She is not a
fashion follower. She’s not into clones.
Originality is more important.
At Art College in the mid-1980’s,
she had struggled to draw and, being
a free spirit, didn’t knuckle down until
her final graduation collection. She
realised the only way to pull this off
was to stay entirely true to herself. She
even kept the look and concept secret
from her tutor, which to her credit paid
off. Her collection, entitled ‘Hammond
Pop Party’, was singled out, and
described as “a breath of fresh air” by
acclaimed fashion critic, Suzy Menkes,
in The International Herald Tribune.
“It had no limits,” she told us, showing
press cuttings from newspapers,
which looked amazing! The clothes
were so bright and colourful.
She had purposely allowed the
process to be “organic”, she had
randomly picked unusual fabrics,
including a beautiful cherry print
During a career which involved
taking some jobs she liked (and
some she didn’t), she has travelled
extensively, latterly sharing her
“I transformed
crap into
diamonds.”
knowledge with students hungry
to absorb the life lessons she has
learned over the decades.
Like many a student before me, I too
was amazed at the passion Basia still
has. She currently writes for a Russian
fashion magazine. When she writes, I’m
sure Basia does this with openness and
honesty, telling the truth as she sees it,
rather than being generic.
She is a very confident person. You
can see this from being around her
for only a few minutes. Her love for
what she does is apparent from the
enthusiasm you get when she talks.
This was one of many things that drew
me to her. She’s also a very sensory
person: colour, sound, touch and smell
are crucial to the work she produces.
BASIA’S FINAL COLLECTION FOR HER
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS DEGREE SHOW IN 1988
She also lectures on the subject of
fashion and design worldwide. When
she teaches I’m sure she does it with
Like me, Basia loves shoes! She
consults for the Spanish shoe brand,
enthusiasm, honesty and passion.
She sets out to share her talent and in
thought “outside the box” pouncing
on AstroTurf and laser cut cork
Camper. We also share an interest
in the designer Vivienne Westwood.
doing so inspires others, and she does
this in the only way she knows how…
fabric. Never one to be afraid of the
charity shop, Basia also bought
One of several items Basia brought in
to show us was a Westwood tailored
by being herself.
1970’s-inspired platforms for the
catwalk show and spiced them up
red jacket with hearts from the
iconic Harris Tweed, Autumn/Winter
with sequins.
1987–88 collection. It is a jacket I
have admired since I first started
researching Westwood. To me it felt
is how she describes it. “I just allowed
20
After leaving college Basia took
up many opportunities that came
on silk satin and crepe fabric, and a
patterned sequin fabric. Basia also
“I transformed crap into diamonds,”
ILLUSTRATION BY ANA STANKOVIC-FITZGERALD
Basia also revealed how she would
have liked to live in the 1920’s and
1930’s. She likes a good black and
white movie! She buys - and wears vintage clothing from this period. We
learned that a lot of vintage clothes
come mainly from America as the
English didn’t have the prosperity
around this time and did a lot of ‘make
A CLOSE-UP OF THE SILK SATIN AND CREPE POPPY TEXTILE
USED FOR HER FINAL COLLECTION
like touching the Holy Grail!
21
A
PHOTOGRAPHY ALINA-IOANA NEGOITA
N
D
R
O
G
Y
N
Y
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
ANDROGYNOUS
[AN-DROJ-UH-NUH S]
BY LYNSEY FOX
Androgyny in fashion is the blurring of
masculine and feminine styles to create a
unisex look – almost like a third gender.
Androgynous fashion has been a
celebrity and catwalk favourite in recent
years. Pop chameleons Rihanna and
with her boyish figure and cropped hair
and everyone copied. Rolling Stone Mick
Jagger wore tight trousers, cropped tops
Rita Ora are often seen out in tomboyish
pieces, designers, including Kanye West,
and loads of eye make-up. Male and
female hippies grew their hair and wore
have introduced unisex clothing lines,
and models, like transgendered Andreja
Peji , are walking in both menswear and
womenswear shows. The high street
is full of androgynous staples such as
blazers, trouser suits, sweaters, fashion
tracksuits, sneakers and brogues.
Fashion androgyny is having a moment.
unisex flares and platform shoes. Fashion
was fun and gender rules were broken.
However, as well as being a current
style, androgynous dressing has
1970s
Glam rock, hippy chic and punk were all
major trends in the 70s. Glitter make up
and satin for the boys, tailored trousers
and waistcoats for the girls. The Women’s
Lib Movement was at its peak and women
dressed for power.
actually been one of the most enduring
fashion trends. It symbolises female
1980s
Fashion, music and politics collided to
empowerment and has been at the
forefront of some of the most exciting
create one of androgyny’s most exciting
times. Boy George made the headlines
social changes of the last 100 years.
when he first appeared on Top of the
Pops in 1982 with people asking ‘Is it a
boy or a girl?’. Pop star Prince wore 4”
heels and ruffle blouses. Career driven
business women dressed for success
in suits with large shoulder pads which
showed strength.
Here we look at a timeline of some of
androgyny’s milestones:
1920s
French designer Coco Chanel is credited
with freeing women from corsets. She
claimed she ‘gave women a sense of
freedom’. She reworked her boyfriend,
the Duke of Westminster’s, tweed jackets
and wore trousers so she could horse ride
and fish in comfort and style.
01
02
03
1990s
Grunge and Britpop saw gender lines
become more confused. Doc Martens,
Levis, Adidas Gazelles and Track tops
were standard attire for men and women.
1930s-1940s
As Blur said at the time ‘Girls who want
boys who like boys to be girls’
World War II saw women going out to work
and they needed comfortable, practical
2000s
clothing. Rationing also meant that fabric
was scarce. Women repurposed their
Androgyny has lost its power to shock and
gender blurring is commonplace. Women
husbands’ clothes. Styles included wide
leg trousers, button down shirts and
head scarves.
are now empowered and encouraged to
wear what they like, how they like. Female
role models like Rihanna and Madonna
01
COCO CHANEL
02
WWII WOMEN PAINTING TIMBER IN A FACTORY
are great examples of this.
1960s
03
MADONNA
Androgynous fashion dominated the
1960s. Model Twiggy hit the catwalks
30
YOUJIA JIN
- MA FASHION DESIGN TECHNOLOGY WOMENSWEAR
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE ‘ISMS’ IN FASHION:
RACISM, SIZEISM, AGEISM
MY FASHION STORY
BY ELEANOR VOUSDEN
BY OLEXANDRA SOLOMKA
There has been a lot of debate recently
surrounding the monotonous, generic appearance
of fashion models. Being almost always white, tall,
skinny and young, is a cause for concern particularly
for organisations like the NHS data gatherer,
MyHealthLondon who question if seemingly ‘perfect’
images of catwalk models can be linked to lack of
body confidence in women.
“Our obsession with celebrity-looks reduces our
self-esteem and makes us unhappy with our own
bodies,” says Jane Sullivan, a spokesperson for
the company. The All Party Parliamentary Group
(APPG), recently published findings that suggest
70% of women, and 40% of British men felt pressure
from TV and magazines to have a ‘perfect’ body.
The group, which is run by and for Members of
the Commons and Lords along with organisations
outside Parliament, also claim children as young as
five are concerned about the way they look.
The international catwalks provide an alternative,
less mainstream role model line up for young
women in particular and the good news is here
the use of non-white models appears to be rising,
albeit slowly. New York Fashion Week’s Spring/
Summer 2012 season roll call revealed 82.4% were
white. Compared with 8.5% black; 6.8% Asian;
2% Hispanic, and 0.3% other races. If this sounds
disappointing, it’s an improvement on NYFW
Autumn/Winter 2011 which featured 84.8% white;
7.3% black; 6.2% Asian; 1.5% Hispanic and 0.2%
from other races.
One prisoner at HMP Send rightly suggests the
negative impact this might have on women looking
at catwalk reports in fashion magazines. “We should
see a wider demographic…everyone should be
shown because otherwise you grow up with just one
stereotype of what is beautiful.”
Furthermore, while we may be seeing slight
improvements in the racial diversity of models, we
certainly aren’t seeing changes in size diversity.
According to the American online PLUS Model
magazine, most runway models have a Body Mass
evaluating and measuring the component parts
of their bodies is one of the symptoms,” says the
British fashion expert, former fashion editor of i-D
magazine and co-founder of All Walks, an initiative
dedicated to promoting diversity within the fashion
industry challenging body and beauty ideals. With
the average UK female adult wearing a size 16,
fashion models reflect a mere 5% of society. Is it any
surprise many women are made to feel ‘excluded’
from fashion due to their dress size? As prisoner,
Amie explains, “you always see a lot of smaller sized
women in the fashion industry. There are some
models bigger than there used to be… but it’s still
not enough. If you’re slightly larger than ‘skinny’
there just isn’t anything.”
“We should see a
wider demographic in
magazines...everyone
should be shown,
because otherwise
you’re always growing
up with this stereotype
of what is beautiful.”
used in the advertisement. Writing in the Canadian
issue of fashion magazine Elle he says, “consumers
increased their purchase intentions by over 175%
when they saw models who reflected their age; in
particular, women over the age of 35 increased their
purchase intentions by 200 % when they saw older
models. Black consumers were 1.5 times more likely
to purchase a product advertised by a Black model.” I
would advocate however that when companies do use
a Plus-size model (i.e. a model larger than a UK size
10), the model is invariably smaller than the clothes
size she’s modelling for. For example, a size 14 model
will wear clothes for women who are size 20.
One more ‘ism’ in the fashion industry is ageism.
Despite the ambitions of Channel 4’s Fabulous
Fashionistas, a documentary exploring the lives of
six 80-something’s and their age-defying clothing
styles; and London College of Fashion’s ‘Better Lives’
lecture series which aims to use fashion as a tool to
a ‘better’ future, we still see women well below the
age of 25 modelling say, anti-aging creams. American
holistic health practitioner and owner of the brand,
Holistically Haute skincare, Rachel Pontillo believes
there are some men and women so desperate to
achieve the modern idea of physical perfection, that
they will try “anything without thinking clearly” or
worse, “getting all the facts about what results to
realistically expect.”
Catwalk-wise a small improvement has been since
the child model law was passed in America in October
2013. During the New York season, anyone under
It can however be argued that fashion models
have an aspirational appearance that levers in size
and race. “Reading fashion magazines is about
escapism,” one Send prisoner states. “We know
we won’t ever look like these women. An insecure
woman could look at a model her own age, size and
the age of 18 is now designated a ‘child performer’,
which has eschewed some catwalk-casting directors.
Casting Director, James Scully, who has worked
for Tom Ford, Stella McCartney and Lanvin, and
has frequently spoken out about the need for more
diversity on the catwalks, explains how prior to the
legislation roughly 60% of catwalk models were under
18, compared with now, less than 1%. Whilst the
industry might be making steps in the right direction,
race, and still find fault with her own appearance.
It’s all down to the individual.”
they’re still only baby steps. Most models remain
between the ages of 20-24, a disappointing statistic
We’ve all got one. A tale about a little off-the-shoulder number, rustled up
in half an hour from an old hemp sack, the time you accidentally dyed your
sister’s hair bright orange or that 1980s batwing body-con dress you made
in a day? Or that time you made superstar Kate Winslet run up the stairs
in preparation for the red carpet on Oscar night (WHAAAT?!!!) Fashion
trends come and go but fashion memories are for keeps.
Here’s a pick of our favourites.
VICTORIA
JANE
“I’m Nigerian. It’s a tradition in our culture to wear
Ankara (a woven, brightly coloured, wax-print fabric)
to parties; main milestone birthdays especially. It’s
all about who looks best and how it’s been made.
The birthday host picks two colours for the party
and all the guests have to wear them. We design our
outfits and visit fabric shops to pick out colours and
then get a tailor to make outfits.
“A few years ago, my dad went up to the attic and
found drawings of clothing designs I’d done when
I was three. I’ve always loved designing. I believe
creativity is in your genes but it definitely skipped
a generation with my mum who would sew a button
These parties first got me into fashion. For my tenth
shop and making a burgundy, body-con ruched dress
in mock suede with punched holes and batwing
sleeves. I wore it out clubbing that same night. For
my final collection I made a suit including a jacket,
pencil skirt, blouse and cape in grey with horsehair
lining. The jacket had stiff shoulder pads. There’s a
photograph of me with my illustrations that went with
it. I even went to an interview at M&S wearing it.”
birthday, I designed a ra-ra skirt and t-shirt in green
and pink inspired by Sporty Spice.
For my cousin’s twenty-first, I designed an outfit
inspired by the Simmons sisters. Only thing is my
cousin hadn’t come up with anything so I ended up
having to give her my designs too. We wore the exact
same outfits to the party.”
CLAIRE
for age diversity campaigners.
into a dress. It was made of hemp, off-the shoulder,
with gold loops at the hem, which were then tied
backs this fact up. “Some people are more vulnerable
to (fashion) images and these tend to be people
As we know fashion not only mirrors social,
economic and cultural changes, it expresses
around the waist as a belt. It only took about half an
hour to make and I thought it looked amazing. It was
model weighing 23% less than an ‘average’ woman,
it’s perhaps easy to see why links are made between
who have body dissatisfaction and are unhappy
with how they look. They’ve taken on those thin
modernity. As fashion continues to embrace
globalism, celebrating diversity in many cultures,
something no one else had.
catwalk models and a record high 1.6 million eating
disorder sufferers in the UK. The trend for very thin
ideals as their own personal ideals when they are
unlikely to ever achieve them.” While this may be
reflecting customers from countries with growing
economies investing in fashion, namely China, the
I am still inspired by the work of the designer, Hussein
Chalayan, who reclaims everyday objects and
catwalk models is arguably the most dangerous
of all the ‘isms’ in fashion according to Caryn
true, studies undertaken by luminaries such as Dr
Ben Barry, a Cambridge social scientist shows that
Middle East, Africa, India and Brazil, will the next
‘ism’ be about this new fashion modernism? Just
experiments with combinations and juxtapositions.”
Franklin. “We now have a culture that convinces
women to see themselves as an exterior only, and
women are more likely to purchase clothes if they
can ‘identify’ with the size, race and age of model
imagine what the catwalk will look like!
32
I went to art college in the 1980s and studied fashion.
I can remember once buying fabric from the college
JENNY
“I used to live in New Zealand. When I was around
“My interest in fashion was first triggered by the
up-cycling craze in the 1980s. I was sharing a flat
with a guy in Dorset and we upcycled a mail sack
Index (BMI), which puts them in the same category
as women with Anorexia. With the average fashion
Appearance Psychologist, Dr Phillippa Diedrichs
and it would immediately fall off.
nine years old it was cool to wear American
basketball t-shirts and caps even if you didn’t
support a team. I lived in the Chicago Bulls kit, which
was red, and the blue Charlotte Hornets kit.
I also remember wearing my mum’s high heels around
the house, which were far too big for me and dyeing
my sister’s hair for the first time. She ended up with
white roots and ginger ends. She wasn’t very happy.”
33
TONY GLENVILLE
CREATIVE DIRECTOR, LCF
“At eight years old I taught myself to
cut patterns. I made a blue skirt with
four different panels for my mother.
Which she wore. My teacher once said
to me, ‘Tony, you are a disaster…other
than your drawings.’
I’ve worked as a fashion journalist
and a stylist. I dressed Kate Winslet
for her first Oscars. I made her run
up and down stairs in her high heels
until she could walk in them properly.
I can remember one time sitting in
her dressing room with her as she
flicked through the script for the
movie Titanic, which was to make her
an international star. ‘Shall I take the
role, Tony?’ she asked me, and I told
her ‘yeah, why not?’ The rest as they
say, is history.”
Fashion begins with hair. Bold, tousled,
twisted, textured, crimped or plaited.
The Send hair boutique reinterprets the
recent, sculptural ‘Boudicca’ catwalk
hair statements equally inspired by the
wilder environs of the Send gardens.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ANTHONY
ASSISTED BY NEIL PARKES
CAPTION
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
HAIR STORY: TRUE COLOURS
BY CARL STANLEY
Professional hair and makeup artist Carl Stanley, visited
HMP Send for a fashion
shoot… and discovered the
trend for ‘crazy’ colour is
just as popular in prison as it
is with popstars and on the
international catwalks.
Why do we colour our hair? Well,
it’s not such a new practice; from the
moment human beings became aware
of themselves, they began adjusting
what nature gave them. Whether
this was to offer protection whilst
out hunting, or to make themselves
appear stronger to enemies, or
simply to attract a mate, they’ve been
changing how they look for at least six
thousand years.
Throughout history, hair colour has
carried great symbolism. The Ancient
Egyptians used henna to mimic their
Queen, Cleopatra, who was a natural
redhead; in Roman times, there was
a strict hierarchy, with noble women
tinting their hair red, the middleclasses colouring theirs blonde, and
the poorest dyeing theirs black. Black
Here, he tells us about the
history of hair dye and why
women have been dyeing their
hair for thousands of years.
was – and still is – the easiest colour
to maintain. From about 500AD,
red hair was considered a sign of
witchcraft, so the rules changed.
Brunette or golden blonde became
the favourite shades – although
never yellow, for yellow was by law
restricted to ‘women of the night’.
It was Elizabeth I of England who
was responsible for affecting a
turnaround in attitudes. Her auburn
hair was universally imitated as a
reflection of her regal power. Four
hundred years later, Pre-Raphaelite
artists regarded redheads as the
feminine ideal; presenting them as
mystical, sexy free spirits, and ever
since redheads have been seen as
passionate and bohemian. Perhaps the
greatest example today is Rihanna.
Some women go even further
than Chloe. “Brighter colours go
well with a strong personality,” says
fellow prisoner, Amie. “I can take a
loud colour because I’m quite a loud
person! Being purple makes me stand
out and it shows I’m different than
everyone else…and bright colours
make everyone smile. Plus, when I’m
in the salon getting my colour done, it
takes me away from jail, and it’s like
I’m having it done outside.”
If you’re not as brave as Chloe, or
as ‘loud’ as Amie though, colour can
still have a fabulous effect on your
mood. Perhaps you may just want to
hide your grey to make yourself feel
younger? Or, if your hair is mousy
brown why not try a rich chestnut
tone? If you’re worried about being
stuck with something you don’t like,
Amie and Chloe
are two hair
colour devotees
- and trained
hairdressers –
on hand to give
you tips and
advice about
getting your hair
coloured at Send.
Finding the right colour for you
try some on you.’ I said ‘no’ to which
she replied, “I’ll just do it when you’re
asleep then and it will be patchy!” I had
it done on the bottom half and ever
There are lots of considerations to
“I first dyed my hair after seeing
Rihanna go red,” says Chloe. “Each
brand has different names for
different reds; the one I currently have
on is ’dark blonde red.’ For me, hair
is a way to express yourself and stay
“After seeing Rihanna had dyed hers
red. I really liked it so I decided to be
towards a brighter future like Chloe
and Amie.
individual. In prison, getting your hair
done and dyed gives you a sense of
brave and dye mine too, and I loved
it so much I’ve kept it.” Chloe’s use of
Whatever colour you choose, be it
hair in whichever way you please.”
your hair show the world the inner-you
or the person you’d like to be - nobody
can take that away from you.
“Finding the right shade can be like
finding your way to where you want to
go to and who you want to be,” says
Amie continues. “When women
come in to the Send salon enquiring
be made when changing your hair. One
to consider is cost. This depends on
about having colour it's often to do
with change. They are starting to look
after themselves and consider the
future and a new start. The first thing
we would do at the salon is to show
them a colour chart book. Sometimes
I’d advise something subtle: a bit of
red or brown or even a hint of purple.
Sometimes we’ll do something bold
and bright. You need to pinpoint the
hair length and what product you use.
Prices start around £5.50. Another
consideration is a big one - whether
your hair goes with your clothes/style.
Some people concentrate on what
they wear, others rely on hair to make
a fashion statement. Hair is very much
like clothes in that if you look good you
feel good. Ultimately, your hair is YOU.”
colour they want. Someone may
initially want to go for all over black
and I might advise putting a bit of red
going through it. It’s their statement.
I try not to say too much but I do show
them ideas.
normality and freedom. In the sense
of you are free to colour and style your
pink, Marilyn-esque peroxide blonde,
or even just a natural mahogany, let
If this is the case you might not get
the effect you want. Vibrant colour
will fade depending on how much you
wash it. Some colours are harder to
keep looking bright. I discuss all the
options available like permanents,
semi -permanents and dyes that wash
out after 10 washes.
Hair colour in the Send salon
since I’ve stayed purple. There are so
many different shades. I use a few at
the same time. Why purple? Because
it’s my favourite colour. It reminds me
of a favourite Prince song, Purple Rain.
I find behind every colour someone
likes there’s usually a story. Take
Chloe who is young and petite. She
opted for a bright, berry Little Red
Riding Hood style shade.”
you do like. Maybe a change in hair
colour will take you a step further
are, people will think you are and you
might even start to believe it yourself.
you have a distinct style and can take
a strong colour. Or if you want red it’s
never just about one ‘red’. Colour is
about shades. It’s like the 50 shades
of grey. There’s never just one ‘grey’.
One will be right for you.”
“The first time I used purple on my
hair was in 2008,” says Amie. “A friend
was dyeing her hair and said ‘let’s
“I’ve had red hair since January
2012,” says Send prisoner, Chloe;
but by giving the impression that you
38
HAIR COLOURS AT HMP SEND
you can always experiment with
temporary colours until you find one
the word ‘brave’ is interesting because
that is exactly why women choose bold
colours. You might not feel brave inside
‘QUEEN ELIZABETH I’, GEORGE GOWER
RIHANNA
‘VERONICA VERONESE’, DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI
What I do advise about is condition
and care of hair, how are you planning
Amie. “You need to consider whether
Monday – Thursday
8.45am – 12pm
2pm – 4pm
Friday
to care for it after it’s been coloured.
Bleaching hair makes it porous. You
8.45am – 12pm
have to be careful because putting a
strong colour on hair can make it look
*Prices available at the Salon
faded if the hair is in a bad state.
39
SALON OPENING HOURS
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
6 MINUTES TO FABULOUS
BEAUTY SURVIVAL
“It’s about survival. You can
take everything away from me
but I still have myself.”
BY JANE
- BASIA SZKUTNICKA, FASHION DESIGNER
During this magazine project I
asked a visitor to Send, the fashion
designer, Basia Szkutnicka, about her
lifestyle. What she told me, including
the quote above, might easily have
come from any fellow prisoner (i.e. the
idea, they can take what we have but
they cannot take our minds).
We all know we are in control of how
we take care of ourselves. It’s up to us
how and what we choose to do with
the time we have. Being mentally fit
is not always about food or exercise.
Looking and feeling good can also
be achieved with the help of creams,
Basia, how important would you say
that having a beauty routine is?
Very. It makes you feel better about
yourself and also makes people treat
you differently if you look good.
What is yours?
I wish I was more rigorous but
because I work such ridiculous hours,
I neglect things like putting hand
cream on every night. However I take
all my make-up off at night, very
important, and always use eye cream.
MAC, Bourjois, Makeup Forever and
NARS cosmetics. I have way too much
and am a bit addicted to lipsticks.
I like nice lips and always use a lip
pencil to make them a bit bigger,
must help. I always try to run upstairs
…in the tube etc! The older you get
the more you realise that you have to
exercise…otherwise it just settles as
a spare tyre around your tummy. Not a
define them and to keep the lipstick
from spreading into those little
creases that no woman can stop from
appearing after the age of 40.
good look!
I sleep so damn well, it’s unreal.
Sleeping is never a problem. I don’t
allow myself to worry about stuff,
that’s destructive, so at night I cuddle
the cat (Mimi the Siamese) and we
sleep together.
In the morning I wash my face in cold
water and then I use a brand called
Do you have any products that you
take everywhere?
When I travel I always take the same
products with me, decanted in to
smaller containers. It’s important to
continue a regime, as sometimes it
lotions and make-up.
Biologique Recherché, which you
can only get in Paris. That sounds
takes a few months for products to
make a difference, I always take MAC
encouraging their clients to look
after themselves etc.?
I always say, we are like a car - If
you don’t put water and petrol in it
snobby, but I have always had problem
skin and it’s taken me years to find
powder foundations, MAC mascara
and Bourjois black liquid eyeliner.
Not really, I think there is so much
out there now for people to access,
- it will stop. So, if we don’t feed our
bodies, our mind and soul will suffer.
Ultimately, we can’t function. As the
saying goes, you are what you eat, but
what you put on (not just inside) your
body is just as important.
something that actually works.
You can read about what Basia told
me about her life - and beauty survival
kit, which includes tips we can all
learn from. And yes, even given the
limited selection of products available
within these walls the same basic
skincare rules apply.
1
2
3
Conceal and Correct
Concealer is your best friend, especially as you
get older. Apply before foundation. To reduce
shadows apply carefully to the inner corners of
the eyes and a little just outside. A little under
the corners of the mouth helps it look smilier.
Artful Sculpting
You can sharpen your jawline by brushing powder
under your chin along the jaw and out towards your
ears. Use a bronzer, preferably matte, and buff it in
the circles with a brush under cheekbones. To slim
your face apply a little on cheek apples.
Invisible Liner
To make lashes look denser and help define
eyes line your eyes, with a black or brown eye
pencil. To apply, lift your eyelid up, look straight
into a mirror and draw a fine line right in to the
lashes. This is the simple but essential eye trick
Apply concealer along the cheek hollows for a
to master. For a natural daytime look choose a
more youthfully plump-faced.
beige neutral shadow and apply it over the lids
and into the socket line.
Do you feel designers themselves
could endorse this more by
that designers should just keep to
what they do best – make better
clothes and perhaps for a better price.
Everyone deserves good design and
it should be available to everyone, not
just to those who can afford it.
I use a product by them called “Lotion
P50”, which is a toner, and then follow
with their Crème Grand Millesime all
over my face for hydration. (I have
really dry skin, especially at the age
of 48!).
Any tips or brands?
La Roche-Posay for eye make up
remover and cleanser as its gentle
for all skin types and is free from
chemicals, parabens and is hyper
allergenic. As for make-up, MAC,
NARS and Bourjois.
I also use a Biologique Recherché
serum around the eyes, as this is
richer and absorbs better than a
cream. Then I use MAC powder
Do you try to stay fit and care about
what you eat, sleep and exercise?
I’m rubbish at all that. I always say I’ll
start running tomorrow but tomorrow
Do you think this could help make
women and men of all sizes look
good, stay healthy and feel good
about themselves?
I think feeling good comes from within
and when you feel comfortable in
foundation. It evens out my skin;
without this my skin looks patchy.
never comes! I work very long hours,
leave at 9am and get home usually at
your own skin, clothes are merely a
reflection of yourself and your identity.
After that, it’s mascara, eye shadow,
eyeliner and lipstick. I use a lot of
8pm, so I should, but I don’t, take time
to exercise. I walk ‘Tons!’ so I feel that
4
5
The Now Brow
Magic Blusher
Full, thick brows are instant de-agers. For a modern
brow simply fill in any gaps with a pencil. Never over
pluck brows as this can be ageing and once plucked
Blush is the best face-waker-upper. It gives
instant freshness and also makes features more
3D (our faces can look flatter with age). Apply
make eyes look wider. Use a black mascara,
preferably one that is wider at one end, as this will
they may not always grow back. At night before you
go to sleep smoothe Vaseline across your eyelashes
with a brush high on your cheek apples to lift
your face. For a youthful look ensure blusher is
help create an eye-opening fan shape. Use the finer
end of the brush lashes vertically focusing on the
and brows - it keeps them conditioned.
applied no lower than your nostril and no higher
than the top of your ear.
outer corners for a lifted effect.
40
6
Fabu-lashes
You should spend more time on your lashes than on
applying your eye shadow- you will then look much
more polished. Curl lashes first- this will instantly
41
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
STRIKE A POSE
JESSIE SCHOLLER, 24
TRAINEE YOGA TEACHER
ANNE-MIE, 50, ARTIST
HAS PRACTICED YOGA
DAILY FOR 15 YEARS
Why did you first take up yoga?
One of my friends had initially
introduced me to Bikram yoga as a
form of exercise. Bikram is practiced in
40 degree heat and consists of doing
26 postures over 90 minutes.
BY LAURA SAXTON
So you think yoga is only for size
8 yummy mummies, haremwearing hippies and health-obsessed
celebrities? Well, think again. It’s
time we all gave it a go.
For you, what are the main benefits?
At first, I was mainly benefiting from
the physical aspects of hot yoga. It’s a
great alternative to running or working
out at a gym. I have ADHD and have
found that yoga really helps to calm
me down. For the 60 to 90 minutes that
I practice, I have been able leave any
thoughts at the door and solely focus
on what is going on in the room.
For you, what are the main benefits?
Yoga helps me relax. I feel fit now and
not tired anymore. It energises me and
helps me sleep. It also helps me focus
and keep my wandering mind at ease.
BADDHA KONASANA SHIRSHASANA
BOUND ANGLE IN HEADSTAND
What are the most important lessons
you’ve learnt from yoga?
I learned a very hard lesson about 4
weeks ago now. I wasn’t respecting my
UTTHITA TRIKONASANA - TRIANGLE POSE
body by practicing everyday for 31 days
while only getting 3 - 5 hours of sleep a
It not only lowers stress levels and
LAURA SAXTON, 20, LCF STUDENT
I also like Vrksasana (Tree) I think just
Do you think anyone can
promotes feelings of peace and
relaxation but is also the perfect way
to keep physically fit, increase energy
levels and help you sleep.
ATTENDS YOGA CLASS ONCE
A WEEK AND PRACTICES AT HOME
WITH HER HOUSEMATES
putting your hands in this pose makes
you feel more together and ready and its
a classic pose that everyone associates
with yoga and spirituality. I find the
head stands most difficult but it is so
rewarding when you can do them.
gain from yoga?
Yes, I think it would be great to
see more people doing it. I always
recommend it to friends/ family. It
doesn’t always have to act as a form of
therapy, its still just a good way to keep
fit and a positive thing to practice!
Yoga derives from an ancient Indian
philosophy and practice that seeks
to align and unite the mind, body and
spirit. Through exercise, meditation
and breathing, yoga revitalises the
body whilst calming the mind, the
Why did you first take up yoga?
I first took up yoga when I came to
London 2 years ago as I found it hard to
adjust to the busy and hectic lifestyle
of London. Coming from a town in
the middle of nowhere surrounded
by fields I was rejuvenated by nature
balance encourages a healthier,
stress free way of life.
You may ask, “is yoga really for me?” Or
What are the most important lessons
you’ve learnt from yoga?
I think that it's hard to keep up with
it, I find myself being so busy I can’t
Any funny yoga stories?
I think one of the funniest experiences
whilst practicing yoga was when one
but in a huge city like London I really
missed that. I felt constantly drained,
always fit in a class but I would say
that doing little things like breathing
of my housemates came to a yoga
class having never done it before. He’s
mentally and physically. I felt like I was
just following the crowds, not really
exercises to keep going with it, is the
most important lesson. Along with
quite manly but turned up in harem
pants and a tight t-shirt. He looked
question whether you’ll ever be able to
balance on your head for longer than
a few seconds but don’t let that scare
you! If you are willing to give it a try,
stay open-minded and work at your
own pace (you may never look back!).
feeling alive.
really trusting the practice. I think to
really feel the benefits you need to
believe in it.
hilarious. The highlight was when he
got stuck in the plough position. The
teacher luckily saw the funny side of
it. She was very patient.
Here, we look at three case histories
of women who made yoga part of their
me to really concentrate and live in the
moment. It also makes me feel better
exercise for me. It aligns the body and
the mind. It lets you relate and connect
daily lives…and never felt better.
about myself, feeling like I am looking
after myself and in control of my body.
yourself with the world.
For you, what are the main benefits?
I feel so much more in tune with myself
and the world. I have a heightened
awareness. I don’t get into dazed and
lethargic states any more. It provokes
Do you treat yoga as a
spiritual practice?
I would say so, yes. It is more than
What advice would you give to people
who are interested in starting yoga?
GIVE IT A SHOT!
Do you think that yoga can act as
therapy? If so how?
GYM OPENING HOURS
What are your favourite
poses and why?
One of my favourite poses is Halasana
Yes, definitely. Like I said before it
is my way of getting away from the
Monday – Friday
(plough) it makes me feel like I’m
more flexible than I am haha! I used
to dance quite a lot so I did have a
over-saturated ways of London. We are
constantly engaged and stimulated, its
my way to detox and find time to value
slight head start with yoga being more
flexible than a beginner.
the body and mind by nurturing it.
night. I got tired in class and over bent
my spine resulting in a slipped disc and
a pinched sciatic nerve. I wasn’t able
to walk for 3 days and have only now,
slowly, begun to practice again. The
most important lesson yoga teaches is
VRKSASANA- TREE POSE
to listen to your body.
therapy? If so how?
Yoga can act as a means to get to
know your body and to learn to know
what is good for your body to keep it
fit, and to relax the mind, one can’t
function without the other.
Do you think that yoga can act as
therapy? If so how?
Yes, I suffer from depression and ADHD
and yoga has really changed my life. I
Do you think anyone can gain
from yoga?
I think so but you have to be willing to
commit. When you have done it enough
you will have experienced how it can
change your body and can keep you
also practice Vinyasa yoga which means
linking the breath with movement. For
RAISED HANDS POSE - URDHVA HASTASANA
younger than your age, have a good
posture and be energized all the time.
Do you think anyone can gain
from yoga?
I think everyone can gain from yoga.
What advice would you give to people
There are so many different ways to
benefit ranging from social, spiritual
beginning and slowly try to
incorporate it into your life. But once
you come so far it is remarkable. You
who are interested in starting yoga?
You have to stick with it in the
and mental, to physical.
can’t do without it anymore! For sure,
8am – 7.45pm
What advice would you give to people
who are interested in starting yoga?
Full timetable of sessions can
be found on noticeboards
People interested should definitely give
it a try. Yoga can be practiced anywhere
by anyone.
if you are middle-aged and feel you
are getting these little ailments, pains
and no energy, yoga will solve it all.
You, your own body will solve it all. The
mechanism is there you only have to
nurture it. You have to nurture your
body and you will feel great.
VIRABHADRASANA- WARRIOR I
42
Do you treat yoga as a
spiritual practice?
I think it is a spiritual practice but
not related to God. I treat yoga as a
necessity. It brings my mind at ease
and makes me peaceful. I am a natural
being, part of nature, in my way I keep
sane in this seemingly crazy world.
Do you think that yoga can act as
Do you treat yoga as a
spiritual practice?
I personally don’t connect with yoga on
an overly spiritual level.
people who suffer with anxiety and
depression breathing exercises can help
to calm down the mind.
What are the most important lessons
you’ve learnt from yoga?
Practice as much as you can and keep
your breathing in mind all the time.
This will help to keep focused and
concentrated on what is important.
Yoga exercises, relaxes and stretches
your muscles, which will allow you
to meditate and be at peace with
yourself and the world. Your body has a
self-regulating mechanism that keeps
you healthy. Physical practice and
relaxation stimulate this.
43
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
ARTIST
PROFILE:
TONY
CORNER
BY CHARLIE
What kind of work do you create?
I make work with an implied narrative
and a puzzling abstraction. It’s
important to me that people have to
work at knowing an image. It should
take time; it’s a mindful process, like
getting to know someone.
Is art something that can take a
long time? Have some of your most
successful pieces taken longer than
others to create?
I work very quickly, in an expressive
manner. But the works aesthetic is
always about the quality of marks,
layering and textures. It’s a workman
like build up, so although each surface
is applied quite quickly, the overall
amount of time can extend to weeks
and in the case of painting, much longer.
What is your urge to create?
It’s not so much an urge, more a need.
When I was a child, I was really ill and
confined to bed. I think the creative
impulse comes from back then.
Why do artists feel the need to create?
The best pieces always look as though
they took no time at all.
What does your style of work
say about you?
It reflects my interest in the human
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
What literature, film, theatre,
inspires you?
I’m inspired by the nature of
collaboration in theatre. I spent some
time at Covent Garden Opera House
and watched how the integration of
text, image and music were brought
together to create the operatic form.
My secret passion is for West End
musical theatre but I think that’s not
meant to be very cool is it?
Is it important to have an ego?
It’s obviously important to believe in
your work, because that’s sustaining.
Perhaps the ego is best used as a
driver and enabler.
condition. There is always seriousness
to it and I hope it points to the
Why do you feel art needs to be seen?
I think art is a human imperative, like
Are you a Lone Wolf or do you work
fact that life is neither easy nor
straightforward.
having shelter and a full belly. We
are enriched by it and it fulfills an
better in the company of others?
I’ve done both. Collaborating is
emotional need.
interesting because of the exchange
of ideas but the end product is about
the team and you have to be prepared
for a bit of give and take. Working in
a white studio space is usually about
the individual.
In moments of self doubt (if any!)
what do you do?
As it relates to my work, I just keep
working. As it relates to my life, I
just keep working.
Do artists see differently from
non-creators?
There is an element of seeing the
world through another’s eyes. Also,
maybe a creative simply looks for
other things from the world.
Who inspires you and why?
A man called Professor Roy Harris and
anyone who spent a life trying to be
an artist! I’m inspired by his intellect;
Whilst creating do you listen to
music? And if so what?
Are you competitive of other artists?
I honestly don’t think about them, I
just do my work.
he’s very, very, clever indeed! The
artists, for their courage and tenacity.
I’m always a bit fearful of being
influenced by external stuff, so I work
If you were a prisoner, how would you
best use the space around you – and
How do you stand apart from
in a quiet space and hardly ever look
at other artists. Making art is hard
the experience?
I'd try to forget that the actual physical
enough without clouding the issue
with external clutter.
space around me was restricted and
use the experience to feed my work.
other artists?
I try to use a language that is uniquely
mine. In fact, when I’m working, I’m
pretty sure that I’m not even aware
that other artists even exist.
THE WATCHER
“I try to use a language that is uniquely mine. In
fact, when I’m working, I’m pretty sure that I’m not
even aware that other artists even exist.”
- TONY CORNER
44
45
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
LONG DISTANCE
RELATIONSHIPS
29.3.14
THE DAY GAY MARRIAGE
BECAME LEGAL
BY FIONA ANDERSON
BY TATIANA
Does absence make the heart grow fonder as William
Shakespeare once said? Fiona Anderson examines how we
deal with distance and loved ones.
Four summers ago I almost lost my
sight to the video-calling software
Skype. It was also around this time
I started to a) watch the TV show,
Countdown, b) attempt to brush-up on
anything sports-related and c) listen
to Johnny Cash on repeat.
First love has you doing bizarre
things at the best of times. My Dad
was surprised when I asked to borrow
his Johnny Cash CDs but asking what
the ‘offside rule’ was, almost gave him
a coronary.
Inconveniently, I’d decided to fall for
a boy on the other side of the country
and what now seems out of character
was merely ‘our’ way of navigating a
long-distance relationship.
Being separated from any lovedone is tough. We develop different
rituals, languages and gestures to
maintain contact, to show we’re still
thinking of them. Boy X (let’s call him
Brad Pitt) and I spent whole days on
Skype together, sending each other
songs and video clips to convey what
we were feeling, or thinking in a more
palpable way than words on a screen.
help you to feel more connected than
if they were sitting right next to you.
The development of new technology
may mean there are a million and one
ways to stay in touch but in the end it
still harks back to those little things
you do and say. Here’s what some of
Missing the activities we often take
for granted is something one Send
prisoner understands. “My mum
sends me pictures of our dog with
a little message about what walks
they’ve been on together. I love it
because I really miss the countryside
site Facebook just to stay in touch.
Modern technology became
particularly significant when her
grandfather died. “During this time I
was emailed the funeral booklet and
a copy of the eulogy. My Dad read
out a little thing I wrote on my blog
you at Send told me about your long
distance relationships.
walks with them.” She has also seen
how spiritual rituals help us feel closer
(a personal website) at the funeral,
which helped me feel like a part of it.”
to loved-ones as well as our gods. “A
Hindi friend of mine has a prayer his
mother taught him when he was little
On a different note entirely, she
maintains an intimate relationship
and says this to himself if he feels
stressed. He says it makes him feel
with her boyfriend via a video-sharing
website, called Vimeo. “Vimeo means
closer to his family, as well as feeling
supported and safe”.
we don’t have to synch our lifestyles/
work schedules to find private time.
As for who else can see the videos, the
account is all set to be top secret but
I’m pretty sure there must be some
technician in the Vimeo office who
has access!” But for all the modern
technology facilitating communication
all over the world, ultimately the
unwavering, time-tested bond of
human love outweighs anything.
“It’s just
important to
know the love
and loyalty is
still there even
if you don’t
speak to someone
for a year.”
Keeley appreciates more than
many the importance of making
every second with a loved one count.
She’s been married for twenty-eight
years and has now been apart from
her husband, who is also serving a
sentence in prison, for a year. “I get
ten minutes to call him every month
and he has ten minutes to call me. It’s
hard because the phone cuts out after
- DELON
“It’s just important to know the love
ten minutes exactly. You get carried
away and can be in the middle of a
conversation when the line suddenly
goes dead. I’ve taken to saying ‘I love
and loyalty is still there even if you
don’t speak to someone for a year,”
explains Delon. “I know I can leave
prison and pick up with people exactly
Saturday 29th March 2014 was the day it became
legal for LGBT (the acronym referring collectively to
After same sex relationships were decriminalised
in 1967, LGBT people began to see light at the end of
Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender people) in
England and Wales to marry. Scotland followed suit
the end of the tunnel. There are Pride parades where
people can celebrate their sexuality. The Rainbow
and the first same sex marriages will take place in
autumn 2014. This is a huge step forward in a fight
that goes back hundreds of years.
Flag is recognised all around the world. Gay bars
are seen as hip not seedy as in the past or hidden
underground. These days people base their social
lives around gays bars and clubs even if they are
straight as they are seen as a safe, fun environment.
Ben Summerskill, chief executive of gay rights
campaign group Stonewall told the BBC “This
historic step will mean that, for the first time, every
gay person in England and Wales will finally enjoy
exactly the same rights as their heterosexual friends
and family.”
LGBT relationships are now becoming
commonplace rather than being seen as unusual
or secret, as is adoption in same sex marriages. It is
now accepted that children can benefit from a loving
relationship of two parents either gay or straight.
you’ at the beginning of calls instead.”
Her husband sends drawings of
where we left off.”
Until 1900 same sex relationships were
considered to be serious crimes. The sentence was
television together. 2.40pm every
weekday was reserved for Countdown
and we competed religiously for that
activities with her mum has become
an important way to stay in touch
since entering prison. “It’s about
vardos (traditional gypsy carriages)
and the couple still write letters. “I
used to send him letters but didn’t
Whatever happened to Brad Pitt
you ask? Turns out we didn’t have that
ultimate bond (shocker!). Our fate had
death by hanging. Between 1900 and 1967 same sex
relationships were still considered illegal. People
the Channel 4 Programme “Our Gay Wedding” and
cried happy tears with a proud smile. Being gay is no
nine-letter word as if we were living
together as lazy, jobless students.
doing mutual things you both enjoy.
We watch TV or films and then come
realise how important it was until
I came to prison. They can lift your
nothing to do with distance. This was
merely the combination of first love
believed that homosexuality was a mental illness
and people were either imprisoned or sectioned.
longer seen as different in this country. Now you can
wear a wedding ring knowing you are legally married.
People can’t help who they fall in love with.
When he was ill, soppiness set in. I
sent a bag of pear drops to remind him
together to chat about it.” She also
has special songs (John Legend’s All
entire day, now I’ll always put in that
extra effort.”
and a relationship based on midday
game shows and boiled sweets.
LGBT people tried to hide their sexuality and married
the opposite sex often remaining unhappy, just to fit
of the first time we had met.
Of Me is mentioned, I daren’t admit to
knowing Ring of Fire backwards…). Or
I learnt distance doesn’t have
to stop you from feeling close to
she sends songs as a way of saying,
“Listen to the lyrics and know I’m
mine who is based in London, uses
every mode of communication. Her
someone. On occasion it can even
thinking about you”.
parents joined social networking
Like any couple, we watched
For Ellen, enjoying everyday
On the 31st March, 2014 at 10pm, many watched
in and feel accepted.
Alice, an Australian friend of
46
47
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
FRASES
PHRASES
QUEM TEM BOCA VAI A ROMA
If you got a mouth you got Rome.
Translated as If you know how to
speak out for yourself you can go
far (even to Rome) and achieve your
dreams. A popular saying for when
you can get something done, as in
seriously accomplished.
DO YOU SPEAKA
MA LANGUAGE?
BRAZIL
BY MARIA
With the spotlight on Brazil for
the World Cup 2014 we asked a
Brazilian Send resident to tell us a
bit more about her country. From
places to go, food and drink to
beaches and catchphrases.
SOU MALOQUEIRO SOU BRASILEIRO
Brazilian and proud. You are proud to
be tough because being Brazilian is
about being tough and grounded.
MAIS VALE UM PASSARINHO NA MÃO
DO QUE DOIS VOANDO
Better you have caught a bird in
the hand than two flying. Bit like
our ‘a bird in the hand is worth two
in the bush’, meaning it’s better to
accept something that you have or
can use now rather than to try to get
something better that you might not
be able to get.
MUITA AREIA PARA O MEO
CAMINHÃOZINHO
You are too much sand from a little
truck. Meaning you are way too much
you are over the top. There is too much
sand coming from a little truck.
LUGARES
PLACES
PRAIA DE COPACANA
RIO DE JANEIRO
The most beautiful place to go and see
Christo Redentor - the iconic statue
of Christ the Redeemer, the beach
Macarena, Pao de Suca (Sugar loaf
mountain). From this beach you see all
these places. On the beach there are
48
sports, football, volleyball. You can surf
in the ocean. There are bars, parties.
Nearby there are cheap hostels. In the
nearby favelas there are Baille Funk
nightclubs that go on all night until the
sun comes up. It’s always hot and there
are always street parties where you
have a sound system on the street. This
is where the carnival is.
this. It’s a mix of beans, rice, fried
potato, egg and beef all together. You
get it at lunchtime it’s always cheap.
It’s our national dish (a bit like your
British fry-up).
ÁGUA DE COCO
Coconut water – fresh from a big,
green ripe coconut. This is so fresh
and you can buy it on every corner.
Very cheap.
CHURRASCO GAÚCHO
This is a grilled meat dish from South
Brazil which is nearer to Argentinia,
famous for its beef. It’s like the best
type of meat grilled usually in the
open air or BBQ. I’m from South Brazil
Caxias Do Sul, it even gets cold there
like London.
MOQUEQUA DE PEIXE
This is from North Brazil where the
food is hot and spicy because a lot of
inhabitants were originally African.
This is fish and white rice and its
delicious because of all the spices and
coconut milk.
A.V. PAULISTA
SÃO PAULO
The most beautiful and important
street in the city where all the big
businesses and banks are. “I’m from
São Paolo so it’s important to me
although it’s not so much a tourist
ACARAJÉ
place as the heart of the city.”
FRUTAS
FRUIT
This is a fish meal wrapped in a tortilla
and is very spicy indeed. It’s got a red
PITANGA
From North Brazil this is a tiny, bitter
sauce and is really hot, if it's not it’s
not Acarajé.
fruit, orange in colour. It’s full of
vitamin C. You order it with food and
PRAIA DA BOA VIAGEM
RECIFE, North Brazil
take to the beach. Sometimes when
its so hot this is all you want.
Recife (‘heh-see-fee’) is the fifth
largest urban area in Brazil in the
AÇAÍ
North East, population 1.538 million,
and is a beautiful place to go. It’s
From the Amazon this is a berry which
is a superfood. It’s got anti-toxic
different in North Brazil. Different
foods and a lot of Africans originally
properties and is full of vitamins. We
pulp it up and mix it with granola and
came here to live so it's more black.
Frevo is a type of carnival with
ice and make it into a sorbet. It fills
you up and is full of energy. In summer
different music.
we live of Açaí especially when its too
hot to eat a lot.
FLORESTA AMAZÔNICA
AMAZONIA
This is in the middle of Brazil and it’s
the biggest rainforest in the world,
7,000,000 sq metres in total with the
majority contained in Brazil (it also
has parts in Peru and Colombia). You
BEBIBAS
DRINKS
get all types of trees, animals, birds,
insects and tribesman. You also get
CAIPIRINHA
Lime, cachaca – a spirit distilled
from sugarcane juice way stronger
than vodka – sugar and lots of ice. It’s
all types of fruit. There is nothing like
the taste of tropical fruit from here,
particularly the Asai.
cheap in Brazil but outside of Brazil is
considered a luxury because Cachaca
MANGA ROSA
COMIDA
FOOD
is expensive to export.
A type of huge mango with a pink
outside which you peel the skin off
CERVEJA SKOL
and its just so sweet and rich…like
eating candy. It’s so delicious and
Our national beer brand comes in
packed full of vitamins.
PF (PRATO FEITO) FEIJÃO, ARROZ,
BATATA FRITA, BIFE, OVO FRITO
GUARANÁ BRAHMA
A non-alcoholic soda made from the
rich in vitamin C and slightly sour. It’s a
very popular juice and people take this
This translates as ‘plate done’. If you
go anywhere in Brazil you can get
Guarana fruit which we have in cans or
bottles. Great with pizza or popcorn.
to the beach.
cans or bottles. It’s our equivalent
of your Stella.
49
ACEROLA
Similar to pitanga but this is pink. It’s
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
ARTIST
PROFILE:
MARY
BRANSON
CLARK
behaviour. Then I can start to work.
I suppose what it’s saying about me
is - I’m inquisitive and want to know
more. I have to experience stuff to
understand – I’m not so good at
reading and remembering, but once
I have experienced something first
hand I will never forget.
What kind of work do you create?
I mainly create large-scale sculptural
light installations, many of these
What artists inspire you?
Many many artists inspire me. Walter
de Maria and Nancy Holt, they are
land artists who created artworks
out in the New Mexico desert in the
70’s. Their artworks respond to, and
are activated by the environment.
They are still as incredible today as
they were 40 years ago. Susan Lucy
cares about women’s rights and has
been creating multi layered mixed
media installations since the 70’s. Bill
Viola is a video installation artist who
tackles what it is to be human - and
Martin Creed, whose artworks makes
are public. I also take on residencies
me smile!
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE AT SEND
BY CHARLIE
where I respond to communities and
spaces by creating an artwork at the
and permissions etc can take several
years to realize. I don’t think that
because an installation has taken
longer to make, it has more depth or
it is somehow better. I make the work
and then it’s out there and judged.
Why do artists feel the need to create?
I can’t answer for other artists, but I
don’t think I could do anything else this is how I am wired up, and although
sometimes it’s hard work – I’m happy
to be this way.
Why do you feel art needs to be seen?
I don’t necessarily feel art needs to
be seen. I like the idea of art existing
which no one can see – The sculptor
Phyllida Barlow talked to me about
this and I think there is a poetic
beauty to the concept. A big part of
my process is sharing however, so it's
important to me to involve people and
absorb their feedback.
Do artists see differently from
non-creators?
In moments of self-doubt (if any)
end of my time spent somewhere.
At present I am working for Watts
Gallery and the Michael Varah Trust
within Send Prison for one year. Also
I am resident artist at the Houses
of Parliament and will be making a
permanent artwork in response to the
women’s suffrage movement.
what do you do?
In moments of self-doubt, I do panic
and worry, then when I get a grip, I
walk and try let go of what I perhaps
thought an outcome for a piece of
work ‘had to be’. Part of my artistic
process is learning not to fight
unexpected directions and go with
instincts. This can often ultimately
We are all creators, all observers.
Maybe I just spend more time at
it than someone who has another
profession – perhaps as artists we
tend to be more intense in the way we
study what is going on around us.
What is your urge to create?
I’m driven to communicate my
lead to a much better concept.
Something always turns up to put life
the genre depends on what I’m doing.
In early stages of making - I will listen
thoughts and ideas about the
human condition - and I have found
back on track, and then I feel OK again
till the next time!
to classical music that has complex
musical patterns that I can lose
a language through art to do this.
The realisation of a successful piece
of work and the way it can impact
on someone I have never met is an
amazing feeling, so drives me on.
Whilst creating do you listen to music?
Yes, I listen to music while I’m working,
myself in. If I’m printing, I want to
have fun, so I love to listen to Jazz, or
maybe some mad electronic music.
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
Is it important to have an ego?
Oh dear what a question...I struggle
with mine. Sometimes I think I would
like to put it in a box as I’m better off
without it. Life is more exciting for me
when I try and not to let my ego control
things too much - and that goes for
my artwork too. I think I’m ultimately
trying to share ideas that are bigger
than any individual.
02
Are you a Lone Wolf or do you work
better in the company of others?
I am a mixture of both. I create on
my own but I usually need others to
realise my ideas.
03
Are you competitive of other artists?
I was thinking about this one for
a while..You know I don’t think I
really am. It’s not something that’s
important to me.
If you were a prisoner, how would
you best use the space around you –
and the experience?
I think I would struggle. I am a very
3D person, and as such I would be
01
MARY BRANSON CLARK
- SUPERNATURE, 2012
restricted to what I could make. I
would use my time to learn to paint,
02
NANCY HOLT
- SUN TUNNEL, 1976
starting with simple stuff and
hopefully improve. I would also
03
MARTIN CREED
- WORK NO 220, DON’T WORRY NEON, 2000
keep a journal.
Is being at Watts in Send what you
thought it would be?
This residency at Send isn’t what I
thought it would be – but to tell you
the truth, looking back, I realize that
I didn’t really have a clue what it was
going to be. I come once a week and
I mentor the Watts group, we watch
documentaries, have visiting artists,
learn new techniques and we have a
lot of discussions about life. We have
What does your style of work say
Is art something that can take a
long time? Have some of your most
successful pieces taken longer
than others to create?
I have ideas in my sketchbook that
date back over ten years. A lot of
about you?
I’m conceptual and I spend a lot of
what I do is about timing. The right
space, group of people, the will for
and opera, classical concerts and
crazy organ recitals in churches that
the members. They are a great group
– I enjoy being with them and feel
time thinking and walking. I respond
to spaces and people and most of
the artwork to happen, and of course
money. When you get those elements
make your insides shake! I enjoy
cinema – The Wolf of Wall Street was
privileged to have had the opportunity
to work with them.
the time I’m a sponge, soaking up
light, temperature, atmosphere and
coming together a piece will be made,
so I have many projects on the go.
the last movie I really enjoyed.
observing the coded rituals of our
Some works - because of the scale
What literature, film, theatre,
inspires you?
All the arts inspire me – I love theatre
01
Watts Gallery is a unique Arts &
Crafts building which houses the
collection of G.F.Watts and offers
and insight into the art, people and
ideas of the 19th Century.
Watts Gallery’s innovative and
unique Art for All learning and
outreach programme provides a rich
seam of learning through the Watts
Gallery Collection and Watts Chapel.
a laugh. Art is fun, and loosening up
is good for creating – the rest is up to
If you would like to get involved
“Part of my artistic process is
learning not to fight unexpected
directions and go with instincts.”
- MARY BRANSON CLARK
50
51
in Watts Gallery or Koestler
Trust Awards, you can submit
a general application to the
Activities Department.
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
BOOK REVIEWS
BY JANE
Make the Most of Your Time on
Earth: A Rough Guide to the World
1000 Ultimate Travel Experiences
- By Phil Stanton
Screw It, Let’s Do It:
Lessons In Life
- By Richard Branson
You may well be reading this article
sitting in your prison cell thinking
‘why on earth would I want to look at
a travel book?’ Good question. But
What about cycling in the New
Forest? Pitching your tent and
taking your bike on car-free paths.
Or for the sports enthusiast,
watching football at ‘The Theatre of
Dreams’, aka Old Trafford, home to
Manchester United. Each section of
this book finishes with a miscellany
section where you can read such
I was in fact reading another book
at the time I saw the title above. It
may have had something to do with
my mindset at the time that made
me think, “That’s just what I need to
full. Enjoy the moment. Reflect on your
life. Make every second count. Don’t
have regrets.” Easy to say I know, but
Branson beautifully sums it up with
an analogy about Spanish surrealist
painter, Salvador Dalí. Dali would go
for walks in his cliff-top garden, pick
a peach, and admire its golden skin.
He would let the delicate fragrance fill
why not? Have you never thought how
magical it would be to travel to some
things as ‘Law of the Land’. At
the end of the Britain and Ireland
read!’The book, named after one of
the author’s favourite sayings, is a
his senses before taking a single bite,
allowing his mouth to fill with the fresh
far distant shore…?
section, it amused me to find that by
law, all London taxi drivers must ask
their passengers if they have small
pox or the plague! Luckily this is
rarely upheld in today’s society!
‘quick read’ as it is only one hundred
and six pages long. But having put
juice and savour the moment. Then he
would spit out the mouthful and throw
the remaining peach down into the
sea below. He said it was the ‘perfect
moment’ and he gained more from
that, than eating a basket of peaches.
Richard Branson believes that regrets
are like wanting the peach that was
thrown to the rocks below. “Regrets
weigh you down. They hold you back in
the past when you should move on.”
The book begins with an
introduction from Martin Dunford,
publishing director of the Rough Guide
series of DIY guidebooks, inviting
the reader to write in with their own
unique travel experiences. This is
exactly how this book - an index of
personal travel tales around the world
- has been put together. So, you have
individuals sharing such things as
aside my original book, I am glad I did.
‘Painting the town red at La Tomatina’,
Spain, describing the annual festival
a frosty reception.”) Just about
everything in this – literally - cool
Over the years I have come
across many different opinions on
Richard Branson. Some good, some
bad. Having read this book I am of
the opinion that those who have a
defamatory word to say about him
must be affected by the ‘green eyed
monster’ syndrome! This is a man
who has made something quite
incredible of his life. Sadly in the world
where hundreds of revellers get
together to throw ripe tomatoes at one
hotel is made of ice. If you don’t
manage to get a wink of sleep
we live in, this usually puts people’s
back’s up, simply because they want
Richard Branson. Branson believes
in goals. Maybe you too should set
another. (No, this is not your average,
run of the mill travel book!)
encased in expedition strength
sleeping bags and reindeer pelts,
just remember this is a once in a
lifetime experience.
what someone else has. Never do
they stop to think, ‘maybe I could
yourself a goal this week: to read this
book. If nothing else than to say to
yourself, ‘Screw it, let’s Do it.’
The ultimate aim of the guide is to
make the culture of the destination,
rather than simply the destination,
the focal point; highlighting
everything from eating where locals
frequent, to watching a local football
match. In other words, a book to
inspire the traveller to venture that
bit further from their comfort zone…
to a place far off the beaten track,
where the travel experience of a
Of course, if you were inclined,
or lucky enough, to venture further
afield, you can read about chilling
out in the Ice Hotel in Sweden. (“The
only upmarket establishment in
the world where you’re guaranteed
achieve this?’
I found this book very inspirational
and a real eye opener to the real Sir
The book is divided into nine
short chapters each with uplifting
titles. It begins with a very uplifting
introduction where Mr Branson tells
his philosophy in life is to, “Work hard,
and play hard.” However he does
state quite honestly that he hasn’t
Or, if you’re after something more
romantic how about stargazing on
Cerro Mamalluca in Chile? In the
northern half of this country, clouds
are basically non-existent and the
skies are the brightest blue enabling
you to see such constellations as
the Southern Cross along with more
familiar, Jupiter, and Mars.
followed this rule at every step in
his life. In a way he lets us in on his
This book shows that finding that
special place does not have to mean
Even if you don’t fancy yourself as
an intrepid present day Phileas Fogg
you will find this a remarkable book
Just lots of common sense and in
many ways being in the right place at
travelling too far from Blighty. You
could start with some ‘Holkham
you can pick up at any time and
dream until your heart’s content.
secrets to success but on closer
inspection we find no big surprises.
lifetime could be waiting.
LIBRARY OPENING TIMES
the right time.
Mon – Thurs
One section that left a lasting
Magic’, strolling along the beach at
Holkham in Norfolk, considered to be
impression on me was in chapter six,
Sat
Sun
6.30 – 7.30pm
MUSIC
TRAIN
ERS
AIR
ADID FORCE
AS SA
CONV MBA
JORD ERSE
AIR M ANS
BLAZ AX1
E
VANS RS
TN
REEB S
NEW OK
BALA
NCE
R& B
FUNK ES
OOV
R
A
R E GRGAE
REG
ENT
BASHM ASSIC
H CL
SMOOT IC POP
PLAST
ROCK S
M
SLOW JA E
GARAG
THE TOP 10
HIGH STREET
BRANDS
TOPSHOP
MISS SELFRIDE
RIVER ISALND
MANGO
H&M
GAP
URBAN OUTFI
TTERS
BENETTON
NEXT
ZARA
What’s your favourite
iconic movie? Coolest
brand of sneakers?
Best affordable
fashion shop? Music
to write home about?
OMG! Read the hot
list compiled by the
women at Send…
FILMS
BIRD
MOCKING
A
LL
TO KI ROOTS
SE
EA
GR
NCING
DIRTY DAFURIOUS
D
FAST AN THE CITY
&
X
SE
ROCKY LIET
AND JU
ROMEO ICAN PIE
AMER T
GHOS
9.30 – 11.30am
2 – 4pm
(“Live The Moment”) which starts
by saying, “Love life and live it to the
the best beach in Britain.
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53
DESIGNER
S
CHRISTIA
N AUDI
JAEGER GIER
TOM FORD
MAR
CHISTIANC JACOBS
LOUB
FRED PERR OUTIN
Y
JO
JEFFREY SEPH
CA
VIVIENNE MPBELL
WESTW
DIOR OOD
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
THERAPEUTIC COMMUNITY
BY AMIE
ACTIVITIES AT SEND
HMP SEND CURRICULUM AND PROVISION
Therapeutic community (TC) is a commitment
to analysing your behavior in the context of a
prison to try and gain insight and understanding
into why you have ended up in prison.
Offending Behaviour Programmes
Vocational Training Work Parties
(various levels)
Gym Facilities
RAPT -Drug and alcohol programme
Circuit Training
NVQ Business Administration
Therapeutic Community
Weight Management
NVQ Beauty Therapy
PIPE
Ball and Racquet Skills
NVQ Hairdressing
Spinning Classes
VRQ Catering
Employment opportunities
within the prison
PE courses (up to 3 at any one time)
Card workshop
NVQ St.Giles (advice and guidance)
KeepOut
QCF Horticulture
Kitchen
QCG Customer Services
Weights
Badminton
“My understanding of theraputic
community is that it is an intervention
course. You have to have at least two
years left of your sentence, as it must be
18 months to 3 year in total. This can be
discussed if a person needs or wishes to
stay longer.
At theraputic community they say the
things you find the hardest are the things
you need to say. Therapeutic community
isn’t easy. It’s hard. You feel every
emotion. There is some you won’t like. Also
you go into a lot of deep things even the
things you’ve buried and chosen to forget.
People think you can never change a
lifetime of behavior but therapeutic
community enables you to do exactly that.
Therapeutic community breaks down
barriers and shows you that the officers
are human too and do a lot to help you on
your journey.”
- AMIE, TC MEMBER
Amie talked to Senior Officer, Paul and
Officer, Tina about their work.
P - SENIOR OFFICER PAUL BESSENT
T - TINA FULLERTON
How did you first get into tc and why?
P - I first worked on the TC when I came to
HMP Send in 2009. The governor believed
that I would be an asset to working in
a group setting due to having previous
experience at another establishment.
T - I answered a recruiting campaign
Do the stories you hear still create a
reaction? Or have you become more open
minded, if so how?
P - At first the women’s stories were
affecting me but through time you
become more open minded and learn to
detach from taking personal views.
just for TC which said what it involved
and was about.
Some women have had terrible lives.
T - Some make me feel time has had
no effect.
Volleyball
*See noticeboards for full timetables
Miscellaneous
Education Assistant
Cleaners
What was your first day like?
P - My first day was being shown around
If you could say five words about your
the TC unit and introducing myself to
the women.
time on tc what would they be?
P - Five words to describe my time on
Gardens
T - I can’t really remember besides
realising the overall sense of how deep
the commitment was.
the TC are, interesting, satisfying, proud,
challenging and eventful.
T - Rewarding, worthwhile, emotional,
enjoyable and exasperating.
Housing peer advisor
Education Curriculum
(various levels)
LISTENERS
Trained by the Samaritans to
support prisoners.
Gym
English
Maths
SHANNON TRUST READING PLAN
Prisoners are trained to mentor other
prisoners through the Reading plan
ITQ
which teaches prisoners to read
Food safety
MATHS MENTORS
Prisoners are trained to mentor other
Cookery
prisoners to improve their Maths skills
RELEASE ON TEMPORARY LICENCE
Risk Assessed prisoners are able
to work within the community,
progressing from structured voluntary
employment to paid employment.
Health Champions
How do you think the experience has
changed you?
P - The experience has changed me for
the better, as I now have become a better
listener and a more understanding person.
Would you recommend tc to other
women in Send? If so why?
P - I would recommend to any woman to
take on the challenge of being in therapy,
Paints Party
Employability skills
and financial capability
T - It made me less defensive and more
empathetic and more curious about
as at first it is very hard but when they
believe in themselves it becomes easier to
‘Sendsations’ clothes shop
Business enterprise
people’s behavior.
speak in front of others.
T - Of course, 100% as it gives a lifeline
Stores and Laundry
Textiles
How do you cope with listening to
personal stories?
towards change and a better life.
Various Peer mentors
Art & Design
WATTS GALLERY
Art programme in which prisoners
work with our Artist in Residence
Various orderly roles
Healthy Living
from Watts Gallery
P - It was hard at first, but then with the
TC training it becomes more apparent how
Wing Laundry
Library worker
to deal with the groups and the women’s
personal stories and you are able to
English (for non-English speakers)
detach at certain times.
T - Just a balance and knowing they are in
Assertiveness and Decision Making
the past.
First Aid
Family Relationships
Diversity
Distance Learning, Higher
Education and Open University
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THE BEAUTY’S INSIDE
AWARDS
JOIN US FOR ISSUE 4
Does fashion matter to you?
The Beauty’s Inside has
won two prestigious
awards in the last year
and gained praise from
the UK Prime Minister
David Cameron.
In November 2013, the incredible talents and hard
work of the women at HMP Send and LCF students
really paid off when Issue two of the magazine won
the very sought after Widening Participation or
Outreach Initiative of the Year award at the Times
Higher Awards. The Awards celebrate talent and
creativity in the UK Higher Education sector. The
Widening Participation or Outreach Initiative of the
Year award recognises the most imaginative and
innovative project that encourages people from
non-traditional backgrounds to enter higher
education or extends the reach of an institution
to new areas of activity.
We are now seeking volunteers to
contribute to the fourth issue of
fashion magazine The Beauty’s
Inside. Come along, meet guests
and work with experts from the
fashion and beauty industry.
Develop creative skills – and more
importantly - your confidence.
celebrate individuals, groups or organisations doing
exceptional work in their community, going above
and beyond to make things better for others.
On announcing the award Prime Minister
David Cameron said “The time and energy
London College of Fashion students and staff
have devoted to this project has given female
offenders an opportunity to gain real transferable
skills to help them rebuild their lives outside
prison”. He also Tweeted ‘Congratulations
@LCFLondon who win #BigSocietyAward for giving
female offenders the opportunity to rebuild their
lives’ to his 800,000 followers.
You can contribute in many
ways from ideas for content, to
writing, styling or even posing in
a fashion photo shoot.
For further information contact Barbara Jones, Enrichment Activities Lead
The judges were wowed by The Beauty’s Inside
and said “(We) were also impressed by how the
project enhances the experience of students by
showing how their specialist discipline can inspire
and motivate others to achieve.” To celebrate the
award the Times Higher Education magazine wrote
a supportive and encouraging article telling their
95,000 readers about The Beauty’s Inside.
In March 2014 Issue Two also received
recognition from the Big Society Awards, a set of
awards created by the government to recognise and
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The Beauty’s Inside has been hailed as
revolutionary, insightful and meaningful which
reinforces London College of Fashion’s belief that
fashion education can be a transforming force which
can be accessed by everyone.
LCF and Sir John Cass Foundation would like to
thank everyone who has contributed to the success
of The Beauty’s Inside and we hope that you are as
proud of the magazine and all that it has achieved
as we are.
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES REES www.jamesrees.co.uk
London College of Fashion
20 John Prince’s Street
London, W1G 0BJ
www.arts.ac.uk/fashion