bearded Dragons

Zoo med’s
Guide to
bearded
Dragons
by Josh Klavir
Zoo Med's Guide to
Bearded Dragons
by Josh Klavir
Table of Contents
Introduction .........................................................................1
Is a Bearded Dragon the Right Lizard for You? ..................1
Types of Bearded Dragons .................................................2
Selecting a Healthy Animal .................................................2
A Closer Look & Housing/Enclosures ................................3
Substrate & Heating ............................................................4
Heat Rocks & Monitoring the Temperature ........................5
Lighting ...............................................................................6
Photoperiod & Basking Spots .............................................7
Water & Food Bowls & Hiding Spots .................................8
Plants & Cactus ...................................................................8
Other Habitat Decorations ...................................................9
Food & Live Food & Commercial Diets .............................9
Vegetable Matter................................................................10
Treats & Vitamin/Calcium Supplementation & Feeding ..11
Health ...............................................................................12
Stool Samples & Respiratory Infections ...........................13
Metabolic Bone Disease & Prevention .............................13
Time to Choose a Vet ........................................................14
Keep it Clean & Conclusion..............................................14
Recommended Reading.....................................................15
Daily Maintenance Check List ..........................................15
Shopping List ....................................................................15
ISBN 978-0-9652471-9-1
Copyright ©2013 Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without the permission of Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
Introduction:
Bearded Dragons are Australian lizards that have taken the U.S. pet market
by storm since coming into the pet trade from Europe in the early 1990’s.
There’s good reason for their popularity too, since Bearded Dragons are
one of the most docile yet inquisitive pet lizards available in the pet trade.
With proper care and regular handling, Bearded Dragons grow up to be
strong lizards that are often active and entertaining, but are very calm when
handled. This book is intended to be the first step in educating you on the
basics of selecting, setting up and maintaining your pet Bearded Dragon.
Is A Bearded Dragon The Right Lizard For You?
It’s difficult to come up with reasons why a Bearded Dragon isn’t a great pet
for any reptile fan from beginner to expert, although there are a few things
to consider before it comes down to nothing more than personal choice.
A Bearded Dragon is a fairly strong lizard and may not be appropriate for
children under twelve. Remember to never let a young child handle a lizard
unsupervised.
Nostril
Eye
Ear
Tail
Gular Fringe
(Beard)
Gular Pouch
Vent
Lateral Fringe
Space is another consideration, since a normal size adult Bearded Dragon
requires a minimum space of 36" x 18" x 17" (92 x 46 x 43 cm), roughly
the size of a 40 gallon “breeder” or 55 gallon
tank. Since Bearded Dragons also have special
heating and lighting requirements, and need a
moderate amount of space, getting them
set-up is frequently more expensive
than the cost of the animal.
All that said, if you’re looking for
a medium sized lizard that’s hardy,
handleable, attractive, and fun to watch,
a Bearded Dragon simply can’t be beat!
40 gallon long tank setup
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
1
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Types of Bearded Dragons:
There are many different
species of Bearded
Dragon found throughout
Australia, yet only one
is commonly found
in the pet trade: the
Inland Bearded Dragon
(Pogona vitticeps). The
Rankins dragon (Pogona
henrylawsoni), a smaller
species of Bearded
Dragon, can sometimes
be found with a little
effort.
Cirtrus/Tiger Stripe Bearded Dragon
There are several different morphs of the Bearded Dragon, some of which
are becoming increasingly popular and readily available.
The most commonly available and least expensive Bearded Dragon is the
normal brown phase. These are usually a pale yellow with brown markings,
sometimes accompanied by a subtle blue/gray hue or orange speckles around
the beard and crest area.
There are more exotic color phases such as Yellow, Orange, Red, Citrus and
Tiger Stripe to name a few. Other varieties such as Leatherbacks, Silkbacks,
and “Dunners” have skin of different textures. Bearded Dragons have
proven to produce some very interesting morphs, so many breeders are
working with these and developing new varieties. The more exotic types
are now readily available from private breeders, reptile specialty stores and
reptile shows.
Selecting A Healthy Animal:
Now that you have decided to get a Bearded Dragon, it’s time to choose the
right one. Make sure not to buy an animal that’s too young. A 2-3 month
old lizard is the
youngest Bearded
Dragon you should
take home with
you. Some pet
stores will reserve
an animal for you
to pick up once
the animal is old
enough to leave the
Leatherback Bearded Dragon
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
store. Always look for an animal that’s wide eyed, alert and active. Unless
sleeping or sometimes while basking, a Bearded Dragon shouldn’t appear
lazy or tired. Don’t choose an animal that appears lethargic, has poor muscle
tone, is resting its head on the floor of the cage, or whose eyes are only half
open.
A Closer Look:
Ask to handle the animal. It should be alert
but calm in your hand. Look at the head
and check to see if its eyes are free of a
layer of film or debris, and its mouth
looks clean, intact, and healthy. Check the
body and tail. The animal should appear
and feel solid, with few skin folds. Make
sure the base of the tail is solid and that
the hipbones are not visible. Turn the
animal over and inspect the vent, which
Juvenile Beared Dragon
should be free of swelling and have no
sign of dark stains around it. Finally inspect the limbs and tail of the animal.
Is the tail complete? Does the animal have all its toes? Is there any swelling
in the animal’s arms or legs? If so, don’t buy that animal, also make sure the
store will let you return the animal if it’s not eating within 72 hours after
being taken home.
Picking the right animal is of great importance to ensuring a good pet lizard
experience. Resist the urge to impulse buy. Take your time and select an
animal you know you’ll be happy with in the years to come.
Housing/Enclosures:
The author’s philosophy of keeping Bearded Dragons is “More is better,”
and all measurements given in this book are the minimum requirements.
A Bearded Dragon with room to exercise will be a healthier, less stressed
pet, which will help provide a better owner/pet experience. Most Bearded
Dragons sold in pet stores are juveniles, and will require less space. A 20
gallon long tank is suitable for housing a Bearded Dragon for its first year of
life, and can be used afterwards as a separate feeding tank. Having a separate
feeding tank is a convenient way of
ensuring that no excess crickets are
in the enclosure with your Bearded
Dragon after feeding time.
As discussed earlier, a pair of normal
sized adult Bearded Dragons require a
minimum space of 36" x 18" x 17" (92
20 gallon long tank setup
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
3
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
x 46 x 43 cm), about the size of a 40 gallon breeder tank. Each additional
animal should have about 2+ square feet of added floor space. Height is also
an important consideration as Bearded Dragons enjoy basking on a high
perch. Multiple lizards will also require multiple basking spots. In the wild it
is not unusual to find Bearded Dragons basking on a branch well over 3 feet
above the ground.
Substrate:
Providing the right substrate is important to both the
health of your pet and the beauty of your enclosure.
Bearded Dragons are a desert dwelling animal and may
be kept on sand as they would live on in the wild.
Small rocks or wood chips may be added for a more
naturalistic effect, but will make cleaning the enclosure
more difficult. The author prefers to use Zoo Med’s
Reptisand® or Vita-Sand® for creating that Australian
red desert look.
As an alternative to particulate substrate, Repti Cage
Carpet™ or Eco Carpet™ may be used and are
commonly recommended for very young Bearded
Dragons. These carpet substrates can be washed and reused and cannot be accidentally ingested.
Zoo Med’s Excavator® clay burrowing substrate can be
used to build terrain and create a natural looking habitat.
Use this product to make tunnels and burrows, to hold
terrarium pieces in place, and to make use of vertical
space in a taller enclosure.
Zoo Med’s Reptifresh® is an odor eliminating substrate
that can be used on its own or mixed in with other
substrates such as sand. This product can be easily sifted
and absorbs odors caused by waste, feeder insects, and
excess food.
SR-10 Reptisand®
All Natural Substrate
XR-10 Excavator®
Clay Burrowing Substrate
Heating:
Proper heating is a key part of keeping your Bearded
Dragon healthy. During summer days in the wild,
Bearded Dragons may spend part of their day basking
RO-8 Reptifresh®
Odor Eliminating Substrate
in heat above 100˚ F (38˚ C), then retreat into shade
to temps in the low 80s (about 28˚ C). This allows
the animal to thermo-regulate, and choose what temperature it’s most
comfortable in. This type of heat gradient should be replicated in your
enclosure so that your pet may go to either the cool or warm side.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
The cool side should have an
ambient air temperature (as opposed
to surface temperature) in the low
80s (around 28˚ C) and the warm
side an ambient air temperature in
the low to mid 90s (around 34˚ C).
A basking area should be provided
that reaches temperatures of between
cool side
warm side
95-100˚ F (35-38˚ C). Using a
basking heat bulb, such as Zoo Med’s Basking Spot Lamp™ or Repti
Halogen™, in conjunction with an under tank heater, should provide the
proper temperature gradient in most enclosures. Additional heat bulbs or a
Ceramic Heat Emitter should be placed on the same side of the enclosure as
the primary heat bulb if more heat is needed. A nighttime drop of about 10˚
F (6˚ C) can usually be accomplished by shutting off all over-head heating
devices and leaving the under tank heater on 24 hours.
Remember a 10˚ F (6˚ C) nighttime drop should leave the warm side of the
cage no cooler than 80˚ F (28˚ C) at night. A Ceramic Heat Emitter or night
time heat lamp such as a Nocturnal Infrared
Heat Lamp is recommended if additional night
heating is required.
Heat Rocks:
While a Rock Heater should never be used
as a sole heat source, they are very useful in
providing supplemental heat to your Bearded
RH-1 Repticare® Rock Heater
Dragons gut to aid in digestion, and to provide
a nighttime hot spot. Keep a rock heater on the warm side of the enclosure
(but not directly under another heating element) on a timer so that it turns
on when the daytime heating is turned off. This will help ensure that your
animal can digest any food it has consumed late in the day.
Monitoring The Temperature:
Keeping one temperature gauge at the cool end of the
enclosure, and one near the basking spot
will help you make sure the conditions are
optimal for your pet. The author uses and
recommends analog gauges, such as Zoo TH-24 Digital Terrarium
Med’s Precision Analog Thermometer™, Thermometer™
for their enhanced accuracy. A Digital Terrarium
Thermometer has a probe that may be placed in the
terrarium to give a very accurate reading of the ambient
temperature in a specific area of the enclosure. Zoo Med’s
HT-500R ReptiTemp® ReptiTemp®* is a handheld infrared thermometer that can
Thermostat
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
be used to quickly get surface temperatures in different areas throughout the
enclosure.
*The ReptiTemp infrared
thermometer is used by many
professional Bearded Dragon
breeders.
LF-71 Reptisun® T5 HO
Terrarium Hood
Lighting:
Providing adequate lighting for your Bearded Dragon is of paramount
importance to ensuring a happy and healthy pet. Bearded Dragons use
UVB radiation from the sun to help them assimilate calcium and grow
strong bones. When UVB radiation is absorbed through the skin it begins a
molecular transformation that leads to the formation of vitamin D3. Vitamin
D3 is a necessary component in the delivery of calcium from the gut to the
bones, so much so that without it most dietary calcium will simply pass
through the system unused. The result of insufficient calcium absorption is
Metabolic Bone Disease, which is commonly referred to as Osteoporosis in
humans.
Natural UVB radiation from the sun is blocked by the window panes in
most homes, and keeping a Bearded Dragon outside would be inappropriate
in many cooler or very hot climates. A UVB lamp must be provided
when Bearded Dragons are to be kept indoors. It is important to note that
UVB rays cannot be produced by a tungsten filament
incandescent bulb (common house lamp type bulb) and a
UVB specific bulb should be used. Zoo Med’s Reptisun®
and Powersun® UV lamps are excellent choices for
providing UVB to Bearded Dragons. Reptisun® 5.0
and Reptisun® 10.0 lamps area available in Compact
Fluorescent, Mini Compact Fluorescent, Linear T8 and
High Output T5 varieties. The type of bulb you choose
will depend on many different variables. A terrarium
hood, such as Zoo Med’s Slider Hood or Reptisun®
Terrarium Hood should rest on top of the enclosure,
PUV-10 Powersun® UV
preferably on a screen top since glass or plastic will block
the UVB rays.
The UVB produced by any UVB lamp will slowly dissipate over time so
the bulb should be replaced at least once every year. Mark the date on the
bulb with a permanent marker and sign up for the UVB reminder at www.
zoomed.com to receive an e-mail reminder when it is time to replace the
bulb.
Zoo Med’s
ReptiSun® 5.0
linear fluoresecent
Reptisun® 10.0 UVB T5 HO (High Output)
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
has consistently received the highest testing results in UVB
emissions and longevity. A ReptiSun®, replaced annually, is
highly recommended.
Photoperiod:
Your animal will need a naturalistic photoperiod in order
to thrive in captivity. This can be easily accomplished
by plugging all of your day time devices into a timer.
Bearded Dragons should usually have a 12-14 hour daytime
photoperiod, followed by a 10 degree nighttime temperature
drop. If desired, seasons can be replicated by shortening the
photoperiod in the winter and then lengthening it again in
the summer. Providing seasonal photoperiod changes is
an important element to consider when breeding Bearded
Dragons.
LT-12 Repticare®
Terrarium Controller
Basking Spots:
Once you have your heating and lighting
setup, and a layer of substrate down,
it’s time to decorate your pet’s new
home. The first thing to do is provide
a basking area for your animal. Rocks
or wood should be placed in the cage,
and arranged so that your Bearded
SL-100 Repti
Dragon can bask directly in the beam HB-100 Repti Halogen™ Basking
Spot Lamp™
of the spot bulb. Bearded Dragons may
spend more than half their day on the basking spot, which is important for
both their health and social behavior. The basking spot is also an important
part of food digestion. Many lizards, including Bearded Dragons, cannot
digest their food properly without a gut temperature of around 100 degrees.
Always make sure your cage furniture is secured to the floor of the enclosure
and cannot fall onto your pet. It’s better to purchase cage furniture for your
pet, but rocks and wood may
be gathered as long as they are
soaked in a 10% bleach solution,
thoroughly rinsed, and dried out
in the sun prior to being put in
the enclosure. If multiple lizards
are being kept together, multiple
basking sites at different heights
must be provided. The more
dominant animals will take the
taller basking spots.
Basking Spot setup
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Remember when housing multiple animals together to never
have more than one male per enclosure.
Water & Food Bowls:
A full water bowl should be provided for your Bearded Dragon
at all times. It should be large enough for the animal to soak its
entire body in, but not so deep as your animal could drown in it.
Using a water conditioner, such
WC-8 Reptisafe®
as Zoo Med’s ReptiSafe®, should Water Conditioner
be done at every water change. A
food bowl should also be provided for feeding
vegetable matter and commercial diets. The food
dish is recommended to ensure your animal’s
food is free of any substrate, as it’s never a good
WD-30 Repti Rock™
idea to let your
Food & Water Dish
animal consume its
substrate. Both the food and water dishes
should be kept on the cool side of the
enclosure and be cleaned regularly.
Hiding Spots:
It’s important to provide a hide spot, such
as Zoo Med’s Habba Hut™, for your pet to
retreat to. There should be a hide spot at both
the cool and warm side of the enclosure, so
your animal can select the temperature they
are most comfortable in. Bearded Dragons
prefer a cramped hiding area as it makes
them feel less susceptible to being preyed
upon while they sleep. There should also be
enough hide spots to accommodate all lizards
being kept in the enclosure.
HH-L Habba Hut™
Cage Furniture
CF-9X Cork Rounds
Cage Furniture
Plants:
Adding plants to your enclosure is a nice way to transform it into a living
room showpiece. Synthetic plants are not recommended since Bearded
Dragons are omnivorous and may attempt to eat them. The same is true
for all but a few live plants. A couple exceptions to this rule are Aloe, and
Sansevarias or Snake plants. Sansevaria is a good choice because it can be
easily cut down to fit in most enclosures, and is available at most nurseries.
Always clean your plants thoroughly and use only organic soil with no
perlite before placing them in the enclosure. Try to buy plants from an
organic nursery or rinse them until you are positive no pesticide residue
remains.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Cactus:
Cactus should never be used in a Bearded
Dragon enclosure, as the cactus may be
toxic and your pet may injure itself in an
attempt to consume the plant.
Other Habitat Decorations:
MA-M Mopani Wood Cage Furniture
Decorating a Bearded Dragon enclosure
can provide enrichment for the dragon as well as the keeper. Bearded
Dragons love to climb, so sturdy climbing structures should be provided
and can be made using Mopani Wood™ and Sand Blasted Grapevine™.
Less substantial decorative items are poor choices as they will be frequently
knocked over. Always make sure
everything in your pet’s home is nontoxic and thoroughly cleaned before being
placed into the enclosure. A great way to
decorate a Bearded Dragon enclosure is to
use Excavator® Burrowing Clay Substrate.
PSG-S Grapevine Cage Furniture
This substrate can be used to form natural
looking burrows and secure decorations in the
enclosure.
Food:
Bearded Dragons can be voracious eaters and will accept
a fair assortment of foods. Most will also easily adapt to
eating commercial diets.
Live Food:
Live food such as crickets and mealworms make an
excellent food source. They are readily available at most
pet stores and will be eagerly eaten by most Bearded
Dragons. Gathering insects from your yard can also be
done to vary your pet’s diet, but you need to be certain
that the insects you gather haven’t been feeding on plants
containing pesticides or fertilizers, either in your own or your neighbor’s
yard. Never feed fireflies or stinging insects to a Bearded Dragon.
Commercial Diets:
There are many commercial diets on the market to choose from, such as Zoo
Med’s Bearded
Dragon Food™
and Zoo Med’s
ZM-42 Can O' Worms
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
ZM-43 Can O' Mini Crickets
9
ZM-41 Can O' Crickets
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Can O’ Crickets™. Most commercial foods come in both juvenile and adult
formulas. Commercial foods should always be served in a clean food bowl
free of substrate. A commercial diet may be used as the staple of a varied
diet, but training your pet to eat non-live food should be started early in its
life. The best thing about commercial diets is that they don’t get loose in
your house and chirp late at night.
Vegetable Matter:
As adults, Bearded Dragons can live on an almost exclusively vegetarian
diet. Some of their favorite vegetables are Dandelion greens, Collard greens,
Mustard greens, and Romaine lettuce. Try to give your pet a selection of
vegetables, with Dandelion or Collard greens as the main staple. Always buy
organic greens, and/or thoroughly wash all vegetable matter to ensure it is
free of dirt, fertilizer, and pesticide residue!
Fruit should never be fed as more than 10% of your Bearded Dragon’s total
diet.
ZM-43 Can O'
Mini Crickets
ZM-47 Can O'
Mini Mealies
JUVENILE BEARDED
FOOD PYRAMID
5%
fruits
veggies
15%
ZM-146 Can O'
Super Worms
10%
prepared
diet
dark leafy
greens
Natural Juvenile
Bearded Dragon
Food™ with
added vitamins
and minerals.
kale
collard greens
mustard greens
escarole
dandelion greens
romain lettuce
animal protein
20%
50%
crickets
mealworms
Can O’ Mini Crickets™
Can O‘ Worms™
Can O’ Mini Mealies™
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
ADULT BEARDED
FOOD PYRAMID
fruits
5%
mango
papaya
melon
berries
peachs
plums
Tropical Fruit Mix-ins™
20%
25%
animal
protein
veggies
green beans
squash
carrots
snap peas
zucchini
prepared diet
Natural Adult
Bearded Dragon
Food™ with
added vitamins
and minerals.
crickets
mealworms
roaches
Can O’ Pillars™
Can O’ Crickets™
Can O’ Worms™
Can O’ Superworms™
25%
dark leafy greens
25%
kale
collard greens
mustard greens
escarole
dandelion greens
romain lettuce
Treats:
As a treat a Bearded Dragon may be fed super-meal worms or pinky mice.
It’s important to not feed super-meal worms too frequently because they are
high in phosphorus which can rob your Bearded
Dragon of calcium. Don’t feed pinky mice too
frequently because of the high protein content.
No more than once per week is recommended
for feeding treats.
Vitamin/Calcium Supplementation:
It’s very important to supplement your animal’s
diet with added vitamins, minerals, and calcium.
This is easily done by sprinkling Reptivite™
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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A35-8
Reptivite™
A34-8 Repti
Calcium™
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
and ReptiCalcium® powder onto commercial diets or greens.
Some of the vitamin powder can also be placed in a bag along
with crickets and shaken so the powder coats the crickets
prior to feeding.
Feeding:
Feeding your Bearded Dragon should be done daily when
they are juveniles. Offer your pet lizard as many crickets
as it’s willing to eat at a time, and be sure its food bowl is
filled daily with fresh veggies and/or commercial diet food.
Crickets being fed should always be smaller than the width
of your Dragon’s head, to ensure they will fit in its mouth.
NEVER feed a Bearded Dragon food
items that are too large as it may lead
to health problems. Don’t let excess
crickets stay loose in the enclosure as
they may cause unnecessary stress to
your pet. Worms, such as Wax worms
or Mealworms, and other insects may
also be substituted for crickets, but
remember to never feed insects you’ve
gathered in the yard unless you know
they have been feeding on plants that
ZB-74 Juvenile
are pesticide and fertilizer free.
Bearded Dragon Food
Bugnapper®
ZB-77 Adult Bearded
Dragon Food
Feeding your pet a commercial diet is
convenient and easy, but may take some training time. If you want to make
a commercial diet, such as Zoo Med’s Bearded Dragon food, the main staple
of your animal’s diet, it helps to start them eating it at a young age. Rather
than offering your pet as many crickets as it can eat, put about half as many
in and try to dump them into the food bowl. Continue to lessen the amount
of crickets your animal eats until they are fed purely as a treat. Your pet may
not partake of the non-live food initially, but don’t give up. Entice them to
the food bowl with some fresh greens, or try feeding them some commercial
diet from your hand or using feeding tongs. It shouldn’t be more than a few
weeks to have your pet steadily eating a commercial diet, but some animals
simply may not take to it. The feeding of crickets may be done away with
entirely with animals that are regularly feeding on commercial diets.
As adults the feeding regimen is about the same, except they will want to
consume more greens and less insects. Make sure their food bowl is filled
daily, and offer crickets, or commercial food every other day. Always
remember to add vitamin/mineral powder to your Dragon’s food about once
per week as adults, and two to three times weekly for juveniles.
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Health:
Bearded Dragons are rather hardy animals that fare very well in captivity,
but like all living things, they too can get sick. The best preventative
medicine is making sure their enclosure is set up properly so they can get all
the heat and light they need, and stay healthy for their entire 5-10 year life
span.
Stool Samples:
Your pet’s stool is one of the best
indicators of its health. If your animal’s
stool is runny, discolored, particularly
pungent, or contains string like particles
(possibly worms), a sample should
be taken to a reptile specialty vet for
analysis, especially if your animal has
been acting sluggish or losing weight.
Stool analysis can determine if your pet
has parasites or an infection. Having a
stool sample analyzed is inexpensive,
and most common infections are easily
treatable.
Bearded Dragons in Excavator® habitat
Respiratory Infections:
Keeping your Bearded Dragon at too low a temperature for an extended
period of time may result in your animal coming down with a respiratory
infection. If your animal is gaping, has forced breathing, or seems to be
swelling in the body and face, the animal may have a respiratory infection.
In extreme cases the above symptoms may be accompanied by mucus
forming in the mouth and nose area. Keeping your enclosure at proper
temperatures should allow your pet to fight off the infection on its own, but
should symptoms persist, take your animal to a vet as soon as possible.
Metabolic Bone Disease:
Metabolic Bone Disease, or MBD, is unfortunately somewhat common
among captive kept lizards. If your pet seems to have the “shakes,” or has
bones that feel flexible and soft, especially in the jaw area, it may have
MBD. Animals with MBD can easily break bones with falls or leaps that
would have no effect on a healthy animal, and can die as a result of these
injuries. An animal with MBD will often have swollen limbs, and drag their
back feet while walking, as if the back feet are inoperable. An animal with
MBD needs to be taken to a vet immediately! The most common treatment
is Calcium/Vitamin D3 supplementation (not a store bought supplement),
and a daily regimen of natural sunlight.
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Prevention:
Preventing MBD is part of giving your animal the correct environment
and dietary supplementation. As discussed in the “Lighting” section of this
booklet, a UVB source is required to let your animal synthesize vitamin
D3, which is the catalyst the body uses to deliver calcium to the bones. A
combination of vitamin/mineral powder sprinkled onto food, and
a UVB bulb such as the ReptiSun® or Powersun® UV, replaced
annually, should eliminate any worry of your animal developing
MBD. Always remember to follow manufacturer’s guidelines
regarding recommended distance for optimum UVB exposure. Do
not rest the UVB bulb on glass or plastic as it will block the UV
rays. Taking your animal outside from time to time is also very
helpful, but make sure your lizard can retreat to a shaded area
outside if it becomes too hot and never leave an animal in a glass
Wipe Out 1™
tank outdoors.
Bearded Dragons will often gape to cool off while basking. Do not mistake
this normal behavior for a symptom of illness.
Time to Choose a Vet:
When considering a vet for your Bearded Dragon, do some research. Many
vets do not have experience working with reptiles and can make costly
mistakes or misdiagnose the problem completely. Call a potential vet and
ask if they have experience with reptiles and if so how long have they been
working with them. Perhaps there is a vet in your area that specializes in
exotics. If the closest is in a
neighboring town, it will be
worth the drive!
Keep it Clean:
To avoid the transfer of germs,
and possibility of contracting
Salmonella, make sure your pet’s
cage is kept clean. Use Wipe Out
1™ to clean and disinfect cage
and cage furniture. It is important
to wash your hands before and
after handling pet reptiles.
Conclusion:
By reading this book you should
have a better idea of what is
involved when having a Bearded
Dragon as a pet, and can make a
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
more informed decision as to whether or not a Bearded Dragon is the right
pet for you. If you are interested in learning more about this fascinating
species, breeding your pet, or how to create a living naturalistic environment
for them, please refer to the following books.
Recommended Reading:
General Care and Maintenance of Bearded Dragons: Written by Philippe de
Vosjoli and Robert Mailloux
Design and Maintenance of Desert Vivaria: Written by Philippe de Vosjoli
Daily Maintenance Check List:
1. Make sure the water bowl is clean and filled with fresh water.
2. Make sure the food bowl is clean and filled with greens and/or a
commercial diet.
3. Spot clean the substrate of any waste products and/or dead food items.
4. Make sure the temperature gradient is set-up correctly. As the seasons
change and your house temperature changes, your enclosures heating
set-up may require some additional fine tuning.
Shopping List:
Enclosure:
• 20 gallon Long aquarium for one or two juveniles.
• 40 gallon or 36" x 18" x 17" (92 x 46 x 43 cm) enclosure for one or two
adults.
Substrate:
• Zoo Med’s Reptisand®, Zoo Med’s Vita-Sand®, Excavator® Clay
Burrowing substrate, Reptifresh, or Cage Carpet
Heating
24 hours:
• Zoo Med’s Reptitherm® Under Tank Heater.
Daytime:
• Zoo Med’s Basking Spot Lamp or Repti Halogen with Deep Dome, Mini
Deep Dome, or Combo Deep Dome fixture (1 for each adult animal).
Additional or nighttime:
• Zoo Med’s Ceramic Heat Emitter , Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp, Zoo
Med’s Repticare® Rock Heater.
Temperature Monitoring:
• Zoo Med’s Precision Analog Thermometer or Zoo Med’s Digital
Terrarium Thermometer, or Digital Terrarium Thermometer (one
thermometer on each side).
• Zoo Med’s ReptiTemp.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
ligHting:
• Zoo Med’s ReptiSun® 5.0 or 10.0 (T8 or T5 HO) UVB linear bulb with
Reptisun® Terrarium Hood, OR.
• Zoo Med’s Reptisun® 5.0 or 10.0 Compact fluorescent UVB bulb with
Deep Dome, Combo Deep Dome or Naturalistic Terrarium Hood, OR.
• Powersun® UV bulb with Deep Dome or Combo Deep Dome hood.
cagE FurniturE:
• Zoo Med’s Premium Sandblasted Grapevine.
• Mopani Wood.
• Zoo Med’s Habba Huts.
FooD anD WatEr boWls:
• Zoo Med’s Repti-Rock Bowls or Corner Bowls.
• Zoo Med’s Repti-Rock Food Dish.
WatEr conDitionEr:
• Zoo Med’s Reptisafe.
clEanErs:
• Zoo Med’s Wipe Out 1™ Terrarium Cleaner.
FooD:
• Zoo Med’s Bearded Dragon Food - Dry formula.
• Zoo Med’s Bearded Dragon Food - Canned Forumla.
• Both are available in Juvenile and Adult formulas.
• Zoo Med’s Can O’ Products.
• Zoo Med’s Fruit Mix In’s.
• Various grocery store greens, vegetables, and fruits.
-Mustard Greens, Collard Greens, Kale, Green Leaf Lettuce.
-Carrots, Zucchini, Spaghetti Squash, Butternut Squash, sweet potatoes.
-Mango, Papaya, Strawberries, Blueberries, pear, plum, banana, peach.
• Live insects
-Crickets, Mealworms, feeder roaches.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Zoo Med Bearded Dragon Products
NT-B40 Bearded Dragon Kit (40 gal)
NT-21B Bearded Dragon Kit (20 gal)
LF-71 Reptisun® T5 HO Terrarium Hood
Reptisun® 10.0 UVB T5 HO (High Output)
LF-63 Reptisun® T8 Terrarium Hood
FS-36 Reptisun® T8 5.0 UVB
LF-25 Combo Deep Dome
Dual Lamp Fixture
LT-12 Repticare®
Terrarium Controller
WO-18 Wipe Out 1™
Cage Cleaner
HB-100 Repti
Halogen™
HT-500R ReptiTemp®
Thermostat
TH-24 Digital Terrarium
Thermometer™
A35-8
Reptivite™
WC-8 Reptisafe®
Water Conditioner
Zoo Med’s Guide to Bearded Dragons
SL-100 Repti
Basking Spot Lamp™
17
PUV-10
Powersun® UV
RH-1 Repticare®
Rock Heater
A34-8 Repti
Calcium™
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
More Zoo Med Bearded Dragon Products
ZM-41 Can O' Crickets
ZB-74 Juvenile
Bearded Dragon Food
ZB-77 Adult Bearded
Dragon Food
HH-L Habba Hut™
Cage Furniture
WD-30 Repti Rock™
Food & Water Dish
XR-10 Excavator®
Clay Burrowing Substrate
ZM-42 Can O' Worms
RO-8 Reptifresh®
Odor Eliminating Substrate
$1.00
ISBN 978-0-9652471-9-1
ZM-43 Can O' Mini Crickets
CF-9X Cork Rounds
Cage Furniture
ET-40 Eco Carpet
SR-10 Reptisand®
All Natural Substrate
ITEM# ZB-30
50100>
9 780965 247191
Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc. | 3650 Sacramento Dr. | San Luis Obispo, CA 93401
Phone: (805) 542-9988 | Email: [email protected]
www.zoomed.com