Easy Outdoor Orchids - Manatee County Extension Office

The Manatee County Master Gardener Newsletter September 2015 ‐ Volume 14 – Issue 9 Easy Outdoor Orchids
Article and Photographs by Joy Derksen, Master Gardener 2004
Many Manatee gardeners are afraid to try their hand at raising orchids. Contrary to long‐
standing gardening myths, orchids are not difficult to grow in Florida. (Their fussy, plant‐
diva reputation probably originated in places north of Gainesville where people try to grow them as houseplants.) On the other hand, our weather, humidity and high temperatures are just what some orchids need to thrive. And Florida actually has a number of native orchid species that are now cloned and sold in local nurseries. (It is against the law to remove native orchids from their habitats without a permit.) Phalaenopsis
As always, success with orchids comes with recognizing the right plant for the right place in your yard. Providing orchids with proper light, proper watering, and good ventilation is the key. Easy orchids for this area want dappled shade with no direct sun in the afternoon, high humidity coupled with good drainage, and warm air circulating around them. I have just described life under a tree in Florida! E
The perfect orchid for the black‐thumbed, lazy gardener may be the native Florida Butterfly orchid (Encyclia tampensis). This plant can be seen with it’s tiny chartreuse and violet flowers blooming in summer at Myakka State Park‐‐‐so it’s no surprise that this is an easy plant to care for. In nature Encyclia tampensis lives in live oaks, pine trees and sabal palmettos. It needs no additional fertilizer or watering if it lives outside. And it can survive our occasional frigid blasts. Buy it fastened to a piece of bark and hang it or tie it on the favored tree and sit back while your friends and neighbors are amazed at your orchid growing skills. Cattleya orchid in bloom
The following orchids are also good for beginners. These can grow outside nearly year round, but cannot take long periods of time at temperatures lower than 40 degrees F. You will have to cover them or carry them to a warmer area when temperatures drop down drastically. These orchids also have watering and fertilizing requirements. Nothing says orchid like Cattelyas. This genus hass the big single flowers that you associate with Mother’s Day corsages. Cattleyas require bright filtered light with no noon or afternoon sun. They want to be watered twice a week and fertilized twice a month. Cattleyas are a little more expensive, but the flowers always have that WOW factor. Good beginner’s orchids are also those in the Oncidium genus. These small flowered “Dancing Lady” orchids have the same requirements as the Cattleyas. This makes them good companions. They bloom at different times of the year than Cattleyas, so that there is always something going on in your orchid area. These are inexpensive and can be found at big box stores with garden shops. Phalaenopsis orchid (white) and
Psychopsis orchid (orange)
The orchid you see everywhere for sale is a Phalaenopsis, or moth orchid. The flower spikes last for weeks. Phalaenopsis like to be watered frequently and thrive in high humidity between 50% and 80%, which make them another outdoor Florida winner. They should be seated at a bit of an angle or hung so that water does not stay in their crowns. To make my life simpler, I have my shade‐loving orchids growing on a bench encircling an oak tree. I fertilize with a long‐acting pellet fertilizer especially formulated for orchids so that I can ignore the requirements for weekly or monthly fertilization. I check for bugs and fungus and treat when necessary. More information and orchid classes are available at the Manatee County Agriculture and Extension Service: Call (941) 722‐4524. UF offers the following on‐line information: Tips on Growing Orchids in Florida http://ufdc.ufl.edu/IR00005795/00001. Encyclia tampensis
Save the Date…Saturday October 3-Master Gardener
Manatee County Agriculture and Extension Service
1303 17th Street West - Palmetto, FL 34221
Telephone: (941) 722-4524
http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu
Master Gardeners Amy Stripe & Joy Derksen, Co-editors
Contents reviewed & edited by Lisa Hickey, Extension Agent
Send a photo or gardening problem via e-mail to the Master Gardeners
at [email protected] or visit them at the County Extension Office
Monday – Friday 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; closed on Wednesday
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Photo credit: Larry Korhnak, University of Florida Sea Grapes are Protected, Sometimes…
by Michelle Atkinson, Environmental Horticulture Agent Let’s start with the legal stuff:
The Florida Legislature recognized the importance of
coastal plant species. Therefore, Florida law states
that no person, firm, corporation, or governmental
agency shall damage or cause to be damaged sand
dunes or the vegetation growing on the dune system
(subparagraph 161.053(2)(a), Florida Statutes).
Consequently, it is the policy of the Department of
Environmental Protection to protect native salttolerant vegetation and endangered plant
communities. Property owners or their agents
proposing to alter the native vegetation seaward of
the Department’s Coastal Construction Control Line
must apply for a permit if the alteration can be
expected to damage these plants.
What does this mean to landscape professionals and homeowners? If you are maintaining an area along the coast that could be considered a sand dune or part of a dune system, STOP! And then….  Identify the plant. (The Extension office can help you with that, at no charge!)  If it is a native species leave it alone. You will need a permit to “alter” the vegetation. Now let’s talk about enforcement. Recently, a Manatee County homeowner experienced the complications that can arise from trimming sea grape (Coccoloba uvifera) on a sand dune. The story can be found at:
http://www.bradenton.com/2015/05/13/5795365_h
olmes-beach-police-sending-sea.html?rh=1
In 2011, a Vero Beach homeowner was fined $15,000
for cutting sea grapes and other dune vegetation.
Story at http://www.tcpalm.com/news/vero-beachhomeowner-issued-15k-fine-for-tree.
Why does it matter? In a word, light. Sea grapes (a
Florida native) can block artificial light. Artificial
lighting creeping onto sea turtle nesting beaches
affects sea turtles in two ways. First, it deters adult
females from emerging from the surf to nest.
Secondly, it disorients hatchling turtles trying to make
their way to the ocean. They head towards the
brightest horizon, normally the horizon over the
ocean. A dark dune silhouette behind them keeps
them headed to the ocean.
More information about sea grapes can be found at
http://lee.ifas.ufl.edu/Hort/GardenPubsAZ/Seagrape.
pdf.
Editors' note: Sea grapes will be available for sale at
the Master Gardener Plant Fair on October 3rd,
along with other natives and Florida-Friendly plants!
2
Preserving Herbs
by Norma Kisida, Master Gardener 2012
While fresh herbs are usually preferable for cooking, there are several methods of preserving fresh herbs for later use. Depending on the method used, the herbs may lose their color or some of the taste. The best time to harvest herbs is in the morning after they have dried from the morning dew but before the heat of the day. For best results select quality herbs that are not damaged, diseased, discolored, or wilted. Handle gently so as not to release the volatile oils which give herbs their aroma and flavor. The leaves should be harvested just before or when the plants begin to flower as this is when the oils are at their peak. Drying is the traditional way of preserving herbs and works well for heartier herbs that are used at the beginning of cooking such as rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage, savory, and mint. A time‐honored method is to hang them upside down in small bundles in a warm, dry, dark place for one to two weeks. Microwave drying is a more modern option. Place a single layer of clean, dry leaves between paper towels and microwave on high between one and two minutes. For conventional oven drying, spread herbs on a cookie sheet, and dry at the lowest oven temperature. Herbs should crumble easily when dry. Separate leaves from stems and place in container with a tight lid, preferably glass or metal. Home food dehydrators may also be used. Another popular method is freezing the herbs and there are several methods available. A simple way is to rinse the
herbs and place on a cookie sheet, freeze, then transfer to an airtight container and store in the freezer. They can also be coarsely chopped, placed in water‐filled ice trays, frozen, and then transferred to plastic bags for storage in the freezer. The desired number of cubes can then be removed when ready to use. The same method can be done using oil instead of water in the ice trays. Freezing will alter the appearance but not the taste quality of the herbs. To preserve the color it is helpful to dip the leaves quickly into boiling water and then into ice water before using one of the above freezing methods. Other methods include herb‐infused vinegars and oils. Herbs in oil are not recommended unless stored in the refrigerator and used within a few weeks due to the risk of botulism bacteria if there is any moisture left on the herbs. For more information see: Selecting, Storing, and Using Fresh Herbs http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu/family_and_consumer/pdfs/nut
rition_health/selecting‐storing‐using‐herbs‐ohio‐state.pdf; Herbs for Fall http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/hot_topics/lawn_and_ga
rden/herbs_for_fall.shtml#harvesting; Herbs in the Florida Garden http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/
vegetables/herbs.html. 3
or Why You Should Embrace Your Stormwater Pond? by Ross Peterson, Manatee County Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ Coordinator It's 3:00 o’clock, another blistering summer afternoon, and you hear a faint rumbling. The anvil shaped clouds expand and lift into the troposphere, morphing into enormous, drifting ships. The rumble becomes a roar and the clouds turn menacing hues of blue/ black. Then, as the vaporous giants can no longer support their burden, the first raindrop falls. In the next twenty minutes millions of raindrops make this repetitive journey as a typical afternoon plays out along the west coast of Florida. This has become a common scenario, especially over the past several weeks; but have you ever thought about where this stormwater goes and what it takes with it during the flow process? As you ponder the question, let’s consider some math to wrap our heads around the volume of water we are discussing. In those 20 minutes, let’s say one inch of rain has fallen over an area roughly the size of a football field. This amounts to approximately 27,154 gallons of water. One inch of rain over one square mile of impervious (or paved surfaces would yield over 17,000,000 gallons of stormwater! Remember, this is just one rain event. Now consider an area the size of downtown Bradenton, not that extensive; however, most of the surfaces are paved. Any precipitous runoff finds its way into the Manatee River, Wares Creek, and eventually the Gulf of Mexico through a network of stormwater drains and pipes. These systems are necessary to move the water off the land surfaces to reduce the risk of flooding; however this presents other challenges. The stormwater runoff, especially from urban areas, can also carry oil, solvents, pollen, emissions, and other types of sediments and pollutants directly into our waterways. Suburban areas also contribute to the pollutant mix with fertilizers, pesticides, and pet waste to name a few. This nutrient laden water is the perfect recipe for algal blooms in our estuary systems that in turn alter water clarity and light levels needed by sea grasses for photosynthesis. The aquatic plants provide food and continued on page 5 4
continued from page 4 shelter to numerous marine species and also act to stabilize sediment that would otherwise be subjected to transport by wave action. But, there are systems that act to filter and control the release of this “dirty water” back into the hydrologic system. Just over 100 years ago, (yes, before the I‐4 corridor), wetlands covered more than half of our state. These natural systems control flooding by slowing the water flow and soaking up and retaining excess water as well as recharging our aquifers. Some of the plants in wetland areas absorb pollutants and break them down and in some cases use them as a source of nutrients. The wetlands provide a valuable habitat for numerous species of plants and animals, some endangered. Unfortunately over half of these wetlands that acted as natural filters, flood mitigation, and prime wildlife habitat have been drained to build roads, housing developments, industrial complexes, and agricultural production. As Florida’s population continued to grow, wetlands were replaced by concrete and asphalt, and stormwater runoff became and continues to be the primary source of pollution to the surface waters in our state. Thus, in the early 1980's the Florida Legislature required treatment of stormwater by the construction and management of stormwater ponds. Stormwater ponds are engineered to mimic the natural systems of detaining stormwater runoff to mitigate flooding and allow pollutants to settle and filter before the water is reintroduced into our natural waterways. There are basically two types of stormwater ponds: retention and detention. The retention system is designed to allow water to percolate through soil into the shallow groundwater aquifer. Grass is used to stabilize the banks and to help filter sediments. This type of system does not discharge directly to natural surface water bodies. The detention system as the name implies, slowly discharges stormwater into natural surface water bodies in a controlled manner through an outflow structure after materials/sediments have settled or have been absorbed by aquatic plants, an important component of these systems. Please keep in mind that I have oversimplified the basic functions of these systems but again they are designed to mimic the wetland systems that we disturbed. What can you do as a concerned citizen? Practice the Nine Principles of Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ of course! In particular: Reduce Stormwater Runoff‐ Direct downspouts and gutters into your lawn, landscape beds, rain barrels, cisterns, or other containment areas. Use permeable surfaces such bricks, gravel, shell, or mulch for walkways, patios, and driveways. Sweep or blow grass clippings, fertilizer, and soil onto turf areas so they don’t wash into storm drains. Clean up oil spills and leaks on driveways using cat litter and pick up pet waste to reduce bacterial and nutrient pollution. Use swales to hold and filter water. Protect the Waterfront‐ Bays and waterways contribute to the quality of life and economic prosperity in Florida. In recent estimates stated in the Sarasota Bay Estuary Program’s economic valuation study, $11.8 billion in revenues were generated through the Sarasota Bay and adjoining waterways. Waterfront property owners can help protect these natural treasures. Never prune or remove mangroves or any waterfront vegetation without first seeking proper permits and following guidelines. Establish a 10 to30‐foot no‐
fertilizer, no‐pesticide zone along your shoreline. Remove invasive exotic aquatic plants from the waterways by cutting, pulling, or raking. Plant a buffer zone of low‐
maintenance plants between your lawn and shoreline to absorb nutrients and provide wildlife habitat. If your community, HOA, POA, or COA, has stormwater systems, get involved in improving or maintaining the quality of these systems. Ask questions, educate yourself and your neighbors about the importance of properly managing stormwater ponds, and their impact on our quality of life in Florida. Being a Floridian means we are all stakeholders and “owners” of waterfront property. 5
This Tree or That Tree?
by Nancy Porter, Master Gardener 2014 The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The next best time is now. Old Chinese Proverb Seems easy enough, or does it? Just what kind of tree to plant, where to plant it, how much space will it need, is it hardy enough; these questions make it not so easy to determine this or that tree. Nyssa sylvatica ‘Gable’ Florida’s native black gum ‐ a tough, adaptable and long‐lived tree Cercis canadensis The Rising Sun’ (Redbud) Holds up well in the heat, moist soil and full sun Liquidambar sytyraciflua ‘Oconee’ Amazing native sweetgum, grows into a perfect ball Populus deltoides ‘Purple Tower’ Eastern cottonwood Fast growing and fairly long‐lived Pinus serotine ‘Witch’s Broom’ Dense growths make nice dwarf trees Taxodium distichum ‘Cascade Falls’ A dramatically weeping cypress, make great substitutes for weeping willows Taxodium distichum ‘Cave Hill’ Miniature bald cypress, very small, tree with dense luxuriant foliage Taxodium distichum ‘Lindsey’s Skyward’ Relatively new columnar form of bald cypress, branches point upward Taxodium distichum ‘Peve Minaret’ Smaller growing bald cypress, upright with sparser branching Oak trees are seen throughout our area and many new developments are lining their roadways with them. As beautiful as they are, we need to consider other trees for many reasons. One is that if one family of trees is a mainstay, they can become infested with disease that could potentially wipe out the entire group. Examples include Dutch elm disease, citrus greening, laurel blight, numerous oak diseases, and so on. Jason A. Smith, Associate Professor at the University of Florida states that the benefits of diversification are realized both immediately and in the future. Tree planting diversity leads to greater resilience as well as increased wildlife habitat. In Smith’s article "Improving on Natives: Underutilized Cultivars of Native Trees for North and Central Florida," he offers many tree varieties as suggestions. Listed here are a few of his recommendations for our area. With the help of Ross Peterson (Manatee County Agriculture and Extension Service’s Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ Coordinator), I located an article, "Small Flowering Trees Deserving Greater Use," by David Creech, Dept. of Agriculture (http://scholarworks.sfasu.edu/sfa_gardens_publications/2/.) Creech conducted a survey of academics and nurserymen and determined that the Cordia boissieri, ‘Mexican olive,’ was suitable for planting in well‐drained soils and could be planted in Florida; one might have to go out of the region; however, to locate this tree for purchase. Another Creech finding was the Aloysia virgata commonly called almond verbena." If one cares for it and prunes it properly, it will provide blooms spring, summer, and fall. It also serves as a butterfly nectar plant and can withstand what the seasons throw at it. To follow up with these interesting trees, the University of Florida has published a field guide to 140 tree species: "TREES: North & Central Florida" that is available at the University of Florida’s online IFAS bookstore. Do an internet search for “UF IFAS bookstore” for your copy. I don’t know about you, but I sure would like to have an acre or two at my disposal, so that I could give at least a half dozen of these trees mentioned here a try. As it is, I’ll just have to encourage others to step out of the box and plant something other than the mighty oak! For further information on Smith’s suggestions, go to: http://conference.ifas.ufl.edu/gardener13/Presentations/Tuesday/
Palms%20Ballroom%20(C‐D)/am/0800%20Smith.pdf Photos courtesy of Green Heron Tools
Garden Tools for Women
by John Dawson, Master Gardener 2007
For centuries, garden tools were developed by men for use
by men. Women gardeners were stuck using tools that
simply were not optimal for their physical structure.
Women’s bodies are significantly different from men’s.
Women tend to have: smaller stature (proportionally
shorter legs and arms, narrower shoulders); wider hips;
more fatty tissue and less muscle; 40-75% less upper-body
strength, 5-30% less lower-body strength, and less hand
grip strength. Using tools that are not ergonomically
efficient can cause fatigue, pain and possible physical
injury. Statistics show that most home gardeners are
women, so why should they still be using garden tools
designed for men?
To find tools and equipment that are ergonomically correct
for women look for products that:
- Allow your joints to remain in a neutral (non-twisted)
position such as a pistol grip attached to the end of a
hoe handle which allows your wrist to remain straight,
or D-grip attachments on shovel handles for more
lifting leverage.
- Have grips or handles that comfortably fit your hands
without requiring too much constriction of the fingers
(grip too small) or stretching (grip too big).
- Allow your back to remain as straight as possible.
- Are adjustable and come in various sizes and are as light
as possible without compromising function.
Ratcheting shears and loppers along with longer handles
give more cutting power to weaker hands. Please do not
use “cheater bars” (long pipes that fit over tool handles to
provide more leverage) as most garden tools are not
designed for the added stress. You may damage the tool
and injure yourself in the process. Avoid the temptation of
buying pink tools, as they may be just regular tools painted
pink or are so small and light that they are not functional.
There are tools designed for arthritic hands as well, having
upright handles. Being disabled doesn’t mean an end to
gardening; there are tools designed for disabilities. Check
the Web, as the big box stores may not carry them.
In a previous issue of "The Bench," I briefly mentioned the
HERShovel™ developed by Ann Adams and Liz
Brensinger of Green Heron Tools. Tired of using the wrong
shovel on their small farm, they received a grant and
worked with engineers, ergonomics experts, and many
women volunteer testers to develop their shovel for women.
Their idea was to have one combination tool that could dig,
penetrate turf and soil like a spade, and also move soil like
a shovel, where the handle length was to be optimized
between short and long-handled shovels and spades, longhandled being more efficient for leverage and short-handled
being more efficient in close spaces. The blade was given a
wider step so that women, who typically have weaker upper
body strength, could press more easily with the foot and the
handle was wider than a typical D-handle; thus, women
could use both hands on the handle, again to allow both
shoulders to push down. They continue to research and
develop new gardening tools for women.
Having a tool that is ergonomically correct is only the
beginning; you also need to know how to use it properly.
1) Wear proper footwear such as shoes or boots with
strong support in the arch and sole (no flip-flops or
tennis shoes).
2) Protect your hands by wearing gloves, which improves
your grip and also helps prevent blisters and calluses.
3) Do some simple stretching exercises before you get
started. Exercise increases blood flow to your muscles,
effectively warming them up before starting heavy duty
gardening chores. Know when your body has had
enough and rest!
4) Clean and maintain your tools to keep them in optimal
condition. And use the tools designed for the job at hand.
Happy gardening, ladies!
Editors' note: Despite women's genetic physiological
"disadvantages, gardening makes for a great workout.
Next month: exercises to boost your gardening efficiency
and reduce injury!
Annual Plant Sale
Offers Savings and Selection
Do you have a spot in your yard where you would love to have a butterfly garden or does your landscape just need a little splash of color? Interested in growing more Florida natives? Manatee County Extension Master Gardeners may have the answer. Saturday, October 3rd from 8:00 A.M to 1:00 P.M., the Manatee County Master Gardeners will be holding their annual plant sale fundraiser at the Manatee County Extension Office at 1303 17th Street West in Palmetto. These plants have been raised by the Master Gardeners themselves and include a wide array of natives, perennials, shrubs, and ornamental grasses all priced to sell. Gardening accessories will also be on sale. Many sought‐after plants will be available including sea grapes, orchids, vegetables, herbs, bromeliads, wild coffee, stoppers, groundcovers, and butterfly plants. Come early for the best selection and bring along your own wagon or garden cart to stock up. We accept cash or personal checks ONLY. The first fifty customers will receive a free native plant seedling. All proceeds from this event go to the operation and maintenance of the Master Gardeners’ Educational Gardens and Greenhouse, and to support Master Gardener educational and outreach programs. 8
September
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Date
2nd & 4th Saturday 2nd Saturday Time
Event
Ask a Master Gardener – Rocky Bluff Library – 6750 US Highway 301 N., Ellenton. Visit the Extension 10:00 a.m.‐1:00 p.m. Master Gardener information table and get answers to your gardening questions. Ask a Master Gardener – South Manatee Library – 6081 26th Street West, Bradenton. Visit the Extension 10:00 a.m.‐1:00 p.m. Master Gardener information table and get answers to your gardening questions. Extension Master Gardener Plant ID Tour – DeSoto/Riverview Pointe Preserve ‐ Stroll through Saturday September 12 9:00‐11:00 a.m. Saturday September 12 10:00 a.m.‐Noon Thursday September 17 9:00‐11:00 a.m. Saturday September 19 9:00‐11:00 a.m. Sunday September 20 9:00‐11:00 a.m. Tuesday September 22 2:00‐4:00 p.m. Wednesday September 23 2:00‐4:00 p.m. Saturday September 26 9:00‐11:00 a.m. DeSoto National Memorial and Riverview Pointe Preserve to learn more about Florida’s native plants and inhabitants of a coastal habitat. Suitable for all ages. The hike begins in the parking area of the DeSoto National Memorial Park and enters into the Riverview Preserve at 8250 DeSoto Memorial Highway, Bradenton. Call the Extension Master Gardeners to register (941) 722‐4524. Herbs in the Florida Garden ‐ Do you love the idea of a fresh herb garden? Learn about the many beneficial aspects of herbs, which herbs grow well in our County, and how to grow your own herb garden. We will address how and when you may use herbs as remedies. Register online http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call the Extension Master Gardeners (941) 722‐4524.
Introduction to Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ ‐ The 9 Principles Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ means using low‐maintenance plants and environmentally sustainable practices. Learn how you can have a beautiful landscape that could save you time, energy, and money while protecting our future. Take a guided tour of the Master Gardeners' Educational Gardens following the workshop. Register online http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call the Extension Master Gardeners (941) 722‐4524. Kokedama Workshop (String Gardening) ‐ What's round, green, and fuzzy all over? A delicate plant growing out of a small moss ball, a Kokedama bonsai ball. Originating in Japan, Kokedama are living plant and moss balls bound up with string. Master Gardener Helen Pausenwein will teach the tips and tricks to construct your own living artwork and then walk you through the process step‐by‐step to create a beautiful plant to take home. Registration http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu and advance payment of $20 for materials due by September 11 (check or cash only; make checks payable to Friends of Extension), which guarantees your spot in class. Call the Extension Master Gardeners (941) 722‐4524.
Extension Master Gardener Plant ID Tour – Robinson Preserve ‐ Stroll through the Robinson Preserve’s salt marshes to learn more about Florida’s native plants and inhabitants of a coastal habitat. Suitable for all ages. Tour begins in parking area by main entrance at 1704 99th Street Northwest, Bradenton. Call the Extension Master Gardeners at (941) 722‐4524 to register.
Irrigation with Water Conservation in Mind ‐ Tom Funari, Irrigation Technician, will focus on how to adjust your in‐ground sprinkler system to conserve water, how you can repair parts, and the benefits of installing smart irrigation devices. We will have a brief discussion on Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ tips. This class satisfies the irrigation educational requirement for the Manatee County Outdoor Water Conservation Rebate Program. Register online http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call Joann (941) 722‐4524.
Landscape Tips for Water Conservation ‐ Valrie Massey, Horticulture Program Assistant, will focus on Florida‐Friendly Landscaping™ tips such as right plant vs right place, watering efficiently, and the benefits of mulch. We will also discuss in‐ground sprinkler systems and the benefit of installing a smart irrigation device. This class satisfies the landscape educational requirement for the Manatee County Outdoor Water Conservation Rebate Program. Register online at http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call Joann (941) 722‐4524.
Rain Barrel Workshop ‐ Storing rainwater aids in the reduction of storm water runoff which can help reduce the levels of pesticides and fertilizers that drain into ponds, streams, lakes, and our bays. Learn how to install, paint, and maintain a functional rain barrel. Workshop is free. Rain barrel and kit offered at the workshop for a fee of $33, (cash or check only; make checks payable to Friends of Extension). Register online http://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu or call the Extension Master Gardeners (941) 722‐4524. Connect with us at: and follow our blog at http://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/manateeco/ University of Florida IFAS Extension ‐ Manatee County 1303 17th St. W., Palmetto, FL 34221 Telephone: (941) 722‐4524 Web site: HUhttp://manatee.ifas.ufl.edu E‐mail: [email protected]
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information, and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non‐discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions, or affiliations.