Which Oil?

TOOL BOX
Slick
Work
HOW TO SAVE YOUR
MOTOR AND YOUR MONEY
BY LUBE-JOB LITA
WHAT’S
SOURCES
1 Honda Oil Filter ........$8.99
1 Honda Gasket.............$.99
1 Vector Filter Wrench ..$8.99
TOTAL ........................$42.82
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PHOTOS BY SHUTTERBUG SZULEWSKI
THE SECRET TO PRESERVING YOUR
engine and cutting down on trips to the service
shop? It’s one of the simplest parts of motorcycle
maintenance: your basic oil change. Many riders
say they don’t have the time or mechanical knowhow to do the work. But if you don’t make oil
changes a habit, you’ll regret it later.
Oil breaks down over time, and worn-out oil
will eventually damage your engine. Simply
replacing the old oil with fresh stuff won’t reverse
the harm; you’ve got to do regular oil maintenance to reduce the likelihood of damage. If you
check your odometer and see that you’re overdue
for an oil change, don’t assume you’re okay just
because “there’s plenty of oil in there.” You’ll just
be asking for trouble. You should also take care of
the oil filter and all associated gaskets, keeping
those items fresh, too.
Here, we’ll show you how easy it is to do an
oil change yourself. You can do the work in your
garage or a parking lot with basic hand tools.
The deserving subject of our maintenance work
is Art Director Trish’s ’99 Honda VT750 Shadow
ACE. A daily rider with regular street use and
light touring under its belt, this bike is ready for
some TLC.
Note that oil change methods differ slightly
from bike to bike, so it’s a good idea to check
your owner’s manual for any procedures particular to your motorcycle. For instance, some bikes
that are equipped with oil coolers or have oil
running through the frame may have several
drain plugs. Also, while Trish’s Honda has a
common spin-on filter, some bikes have a trapdoor in the oil pan with a filter element that slips
into the pan.
Changing the oil shouldn’t be a rare treat for
your engine; think of it as regular nourishment.
It’s not that difficult to do, and tackling the work
yourself will save you all that money you’ve been
forking over to a service department. Here’s how
to get it done.
1
You’ll get better access by raising the motorcycle on its
centerstand. If your bike doesn’t have one, try a wheel lift
or frame jack.
2
We used a factory Honda oil filter, a drain plug gasket, 3 liters
of Honda semi-synthetic blend oil, and a filter removal tool.
3
Start by removing the oil drain plug, and get ready to catch
the oil in a drain pan.
July 2005 RoadBike 85
OIL CHANGE
3 Liters Honda HP4 10W-40
at $7.95 each ...........$23.85
n
Which Oil?
By Tracy Martin
ynthetic, semi-synthetic, petroleum…
which oil should you use? With so
many choices, it’s often confusing for both beginning and experienced tinkerers.
The oil inside your engine must do
several jobs: reduce friction, remove
heat from engine parts, and give dirt
and contaminants a ride to your oil filter, where they’re safely stored until
you change the filter. The oil can be
divided into two basic categories: petroleum (made from dead dinosaurs)
and synthetic. Petroleum oil is refined from crude oil that comes out of
the ground, while synthetic oil is chemically designed or engineered.
A third type of oil, semi-synthetic, is a combination of petroleum and
synthetics, also called synthetic blends. The overall consistency of these
oils, along with the “designer” approach used in the manufacturing
process, offers several advantages over petroleum-based oil. These
include low-temperature fluidity (better flow in a cold engine at start-up),
low volatility (a higher boiling point and greater resistance to evaporation,
resulting in less oil consumption), better lubricity (less friction between
moving engine parts), extended oil change intervals, and higher detergent
characteristics, which keeps engine parts cleaner. In addition, synthetics
offer high-temperature stability, a big advantage on air-cooled bikes.
While petroleum-based oils are good for everyday riding, you should
consider using a pure synthetic or semi-synthetic blend if you use your
motorcycle for racing or short commutes (considered severe service), if
you rely on extended oil change intervals, or if you simply want to use
high-performance engine oil. Owners of new bikes, take note: if you use
pure synthetic oil while breaking in your engine, it may be too slippery and
won’t let the piston rings seat quickly. Use a petroleum-based oil for the
first several thousand miles (or whatever mileage your owner’s manual
recommends for break-in), and then switch to a synthetic.
Vintage motorcycles and synthetic oil don’t get along very well,
either. Old designs of gaskets, cylinders, and piston ring materials are
not up to today’s standards. And synthetic oil, in some older motorcycles,
may be burned excessively or leak through gasket sealing surfaces.
Old-fashioned petroleum-based oil is best for old machinery.
You can use any engine oil that has an API (American Petroleum
Institute) service rating of SF or SG, though it’s best to consult your
owner’s manual. Use oil weights of 10W-40 or 20W-50. Don’t use oils
with lower viscosities; they’re too thin to work well in motorcycle transmissions. And make sure that the oil you’re considering is not labeled
“energy conserving” — these oils are for use in cars only and may cause
your clutch to slip.
The debate over whether to use motorcycle or automobile oil in bikes
will probably go on forever. If you’ve been told that your bike’s engine will
self-destruct if you use car oil, it’s just not true. So far, there’s no definitive evidence that motorcycle-formulated engine oil is any better than its
automotive equivalent. If price is an issue, car oil is less expensive and
works fine in many bikes. [But there are other issues to consider. See
Tech Panel on page 69. — Ed.]
If you’re still not sure what’s best, read your owner’s manual and follow the recommendations of the people who designed your bike. The bottom line is that riding is an emotional hobby, and having peace of mind
on the road is certainly worth something. If a friend’s advice, an oil company’s ad, or a manufacturer’s recommendation about oil gives you that
peace of mind, then choose that oil and go for a ride. n
S
86 RoadBike July 2005
4
Loosen the oil fill plug on the crankcase.
The outside air pressure will help all the oil
flow out.
5
Remove the oil filter element. We used a handy
cup-type tool, but strap oil filter tools work just
as well.
6
After inspecting the drain plug, we noticed that
the gasket was missing. We found it stuck on
the engine. A sharp-edged screwdriver helped
persuade it off the crankcase.
7
Install the new gasket on the plug and clean
all the threads while you wait for the oil to
drain completely.
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8
Lubricate the oil filter seal with a few drops of
fresh oil. Since the filter sits sideways on this
engine, we installed it dry. If your filter is
situated vertically, it’s best to fill the filter with
new oil before installing it.
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9
Install the drain plug and tighten it with a
wrench. Then install the filter and tighten
it by hand. Don’t use the filter wrench —
it’s only for removal.
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10
Refill the crankcase with fresh oil, checking
your manual for the recommended quantity
and weight.
11
Be sure to check the oil level using the method
described in your manual. (Some bikes have an
indicator stick, while some have sight plug
windows.) Start the engine and check for leaks.
If all goes well, you’re done. RB
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RAMYA6
July 2005 RoadBike 87