Everything you need to know about

Transcription

Everything you need to know about
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A straight forward reference
on the use of construction chemicals.
Products you can
trust
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1
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Introduction
The phrase ‘Construction Chemicals’ describes a vast range of
products, from industrial paints through to specialized admixtures - a
potentially confusing and bewildering spectrum of topics. This guide
is intended to break down some of this complexity and describe
chemicals in a way that is easily understandable and makes sense of
the often dense and impenetrable technical literature that abounds
within the industry.
Set out in a uniform way, this guide is split into sections
covering the main categories of use and application.
This will hopefully help identify where using a
construction chemical will help save time or provide
the specified level of performance or simply make life
easier and safer.
We have worked hard to make this booklet as friendly as possible. We hope
you will keep this handy and refer to it as and when you need. If you are a
Groundworker or a construction worker you will always need problems solving;
you will need to know the best product for the job. ‘Where to buy it, and most
importantly will it work? This guide will help you answer those questions without
the need for an in-depth knowledge of chemistry.
The Doc
2
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Index
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Page Subject
4
Cement Based Grouts & Grout Additives
6
Epoxy Grouts
7
Polyester Grouts
8
Curing Membranes
9
Cementitious Concrete Repairs
11
Resin Repairs
12
Waterproofing Concrete
14
Pavior & Slab Sealing
15
Sealants & Adhesives
17
Miscellaneous
18
Health & Safety
19
Glossary
27
On Site Chemical Applications
31
Typical Installation Images
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Cement Based Grouts
Definition
A cement-based grout is a fluid material designed to fill a gap, and set, with certain characteristics. It is simply a bag
of Ordinary Portland Cement (OPC) with a small quantity of a special agent added and it is this agent that gives the
grout its characteristics. The manufacturer then brands this simple product with a fancy and purposeful name.
Typical Uses
Steelwork • Stanchions • Concrete sections • Under non-vibrating machinery • Under balustrades and railings •
Fixing re-bars/starter bars • Filling gaps.
Purpose
The purpose of a grout is to provide total contact
between the adjoining surfaces (often different materials
such as steel and concrete) so transferring loads from
one section of the structure to the other.
Gaps can be the spaces between two different materials
e.g., steel base plates and concrete, joints between
concrete sections, cracks in walls, floors and ceilings, in
fact any construction gap either created intentionally or
one that appears due to movement.
Method/Application
Generally anywhere where contact is made between
two surfaces and normally where some structural
purpose is needed, for example one pre-cast concrete
section to another, on a steel frame building for fixing
steel columns onto concrete surfaces, lighting columns,
bridge parapet guardrails, factory machinery, and street
furniture such as balustrades, cycle stands or benches.
Grout is also used for fixing anchor bolts, starter bars and
barriers. It would be safe to say that grouts are one of the
most universally used of all the construction chemicals
we sell.
Grouts can be supplied pre-blended, where the cement
base has the exact amount of catalyst included by the
manufacturer.
The alternative to a pre-blended grout is to use a
‘grout additive’ into a standard bag of OPC. See ‘Grout
Additives’ section on page 5.
Don’t Forget
Mixers – paddle and forced action, gloves, mastic for
sealing formwork, buckets, bolt boxes and sealant guns.
Additional Info
Most chemical manufacturers will produce a grout range
so there’s plenty of choice in the market. All cementbased grouts tend to have similar properties but this
doesn’t stop manufacturers seeking to make their grouts
appear better, faster, sexier than the others. Grouts
may have letters following their brand name such as GP
standing for General Purpose, or HF for High Flow. They
make HF by using an extra pinch of ‘Pixie Dust’, which
allows it to flow over a greater area.
If a grout is being used on a road contract it should be
borne in mind that it will need to conform to DOT
specification. This information should be available on the
manufacturer’s data sheet. Always check before using as
critical failure could lead to a claim being made against
you.
One comment about ‘aggregates’; when a manufacturer
refers to an aggregate included in a grout or cementitious
product (one which is based on cement as the main
ingredient), they are not talking about pea shingle or
stones. Manufacturers and the industry refer to particles
often smaller than 3mm as aggregate (imagine the size of
grains of rice or smaller and you are nearer the mark).
Standard 25 kg bags of grout yield 12.5 litres; this means
that a bag will cover 1m2 at 12.5mm thick.
Range of Use
Cement based grouts cannot, in their normal form,
be used below a depth of 10mm or above 100mm.
However they are usually not required to do this so this
point is a bit nitpicky.
4
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Cement Based Grouts cont.
Grout Additives
Pros and Cons
Pros for pre-blended grouts
• Consistency of performance. Factory graded and
designed to perform in a precise and specified
way (strength, speed of set, non-shrink), they are
multi-use, can be poured, pumped and trowelled.
Most applications require grout to be poured into
confined or inaccessible areas such as the base
plate of a steel lighting column and to flow around
‘obstacles’, providing a dense mortar surround. So
for this reason pre-blended pourable grouts are
often the only choice.
• Easy to use.
Definition
An ‘add it yourself’ version of the active ingredient used
by manufacturers of pre-bagged cementitious grouts.
Purpose
Designed to be an on site – on demand – way of
knocking up a grout: use the additive, regular OPC and
sand to achieve the right consistency. Once made up the
grout is used in exactly the same way as a pre-bagged
version.
Method/Application
As pre-bagged.
Pros and Cons
• Often specified.
Pros for grout additives
• One bag = only one thing to remember.
Cons for pre-blended grouts
• Careful mixing. By using the wrong mixing technique
(e.g., a helical mixer and whipping in too much
air until it has the consistency of Angel Delight),
the performance of the grout can be disastrously
affected. The correct mixing tool must be used such
as a specialist paddle mixing blade or a ‘forced action
mixer’ (where the blade turns and the tub stays still)
and most definitely not a free fall mixer.
• Measuring. Water must be clean and accurately
measured. Just the slightest too little water and it
will not flow properly, slightly too much and the
grout separates or splits (to use a culinary term).
Imagine if you are grouting a steel base plate - you
must first shutter in the area so the grout doesn’t
just leak everywhere, then once the steel column
is correctly lined up and ready for fixing you pour
in the grout. You can’t see where the grout is going
(because steel is not see through) so in order to be
sure that the entire gap is filled, pour from one side
only. When it backs up on the pouring side and is
about to overflow on the other side the gap should
be filled with no air trapped underneath, as it will
have been displaced by the grout. For this reason
(trapping air) never ever pour a grout from both
sides of the area to be grouted.
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• Cheap
• Convenient for quick use, a small tub of grout
additive can be carried in a toolbox, van etc and
used for small on demand jobs.
Cons for Pre-blended grouts
• Getting the mix exactly right every time is more
troublesome and less accurate than a pre-blended
grout.
Don’t Forget
Bagged cement, mixing paddles, silicone mastic, (for
sealing formwork), buckets, gloves.
Additional Info
To make a grout you will need:
1. A packet or tub of Grout Additive.
2. Mix either with 50Kg of O.P.C. or 50Kg O.P.C. and
50Kg sand.
3. Mix dry with a slow speed drill.
4. Then add the water; 36 litres to cement only or 57
litres for the sand and cement mix.
5. The ‘yield’ or amount of grout that you get from
mixing all the dry ingredients and the water is enough
to cover 1m2 at 36mm thick for cement only, or 1m2
at 57mm thick for the sand and cement mix.
5
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Epoxy Grouts
Definition
An epoxy grout is one that contains a thermosetting resin, i.e., one where the setting reaction gives off heat.
Typical Uses
Grouting under vibrating machinery • Under crane rails • Grouting bearings • Fixing runway lights
• Thin section grouting • Filling thin cracks • Setting bolts.
Purpose
Epoxy grouts are used where early high strength or acid
resistance is required, and where vibration is guaranteed
or likely. Epoxy grouts can be used where the gap to be
filled is typically less than 10mm, but can be used up to
100mm.
Method/Application
These are normally two or three part products and
cannot be part mixed. Which means you open the
package mix all the ingredients together then use them
so you need to get all the preparation done first and
then mix to avoid waste. Normally you get a bag of fine
aggregate and two bottles. One is the resin and the other
the hardener. Any epoxy based product gives off heat
- this is not only a consequence of the setting process
but is part of an ever increasing reaction. The more
heat, the faster it sets, so heat is both a consequence
and a contributor to the grout setting in the way it was
designed (that is why all parts must be mixed together to
create the right performance). If the application calls for a
thickness of more than 100mm, the grout can be bulked
out with clean aggregate, this helps reduce cost but more
importantly helps dissipate the massive heat that would
be generated; epoxy grouts can get hot enough to burn
your skin if touched, therefore, should you need to
dispose of mixed material, spread it over a large area (i.e
pour over sand), allow to set then remove for disposal.
Don’t Forget
Mixing paddles, silicone mastic (for sealing up formwork),
buckets, gloves, goggles, masks, solvent cleaners.
Additional Info
Epoxy grouts can come in many different versions
dependent on use, e.g., low viscosity for thin sections
and blind holes, thixotropic for cartridge use and with
larger aggregates for thick section working - so the
correct one should be identified
Are you sure you have made
the right choice?
For free independent advice
Ask the Doc - always get it right!
Pros and Cons
Pros for Epoxy grouts
• Ready mixed and in correct proportions.
• Can be used in very small gaps, e.g., hairline cracks.
• Sets very quickly.
• Chemical resistance.
• Resists vibration.
• Really tough and hard wearing grout.
• Equally strong under compression and tension so
ideal for high loads and vibration.
• No loss of performance when used down to very
small thickness e.g., 0.5mm (which is 500 microns,
equivalent to 2 layers of 1000 gauge polythene!).
6
Cons for Epoxy grouts
• Compared to cement based grouts epoxies are
expensive.
• Cannot be part mixed.
• Can’t be used in very low temperatures, they need
at least 5 degrees - so no good in a cold store or
Aberdeen (just kidding about Aberdeen).
• Must not be applied to damp surfaces.
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Polyester Grouts
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Definition
A two part synthetic resin or mix of resins that allows the grout to be mixed in varying degrees of thickness from
putty to the consistency of double cream.
The industry as a whole is trying to move away from epoxy into polyester for reasons of health and safety. Epoxy
fumes are pretty bad for you.
Typical Uses
Anchoring bolts and rebars • Non stress fixing of railings/parapets • Sticking brick slips • Non structural crack repair
• Crack sealer for resin injection • Fixing cavity ties in brickwork.
Purpose
Used when fast setting is required, for example grouting
in starter bars, dowel bars, threaded studding for bolting
down items such as stanchion plates, street furniture or
railings. Once mixed and placed into a hole, polyester
resin usually sets within one hour, ready for loading. As it
is a chemical reaction, it does not create heat and can set
under water. This important feature prevents corrosion
around a bolt, as it is totally encapsulated.
the setting of polyesters is based on a chemical reaction,
therefore you can vary the mix between putty or liquid
and it will still set.
Polyester grouts are also available in cartridge form.
When fitted into an applicator gun and pushed out the
material is pre-mixed in a spiral nozzle for placing where
it starts to work immediately. The grout can be squirted
directly into the holes. This is now the most common
way to fix in anchors, bolts and threaded bar. In the old
days manufacturers of fixings used to make a glass vial like
a test tube that you would place into the hole and then
break and mix the resins when the bolt was driven home.
Although not as common now, these are still sometimes
used. The resin cartridges that you now commonly see
in trade counters, on building sites and tool shops fall
generally into this category of a polyester grout.
• High strength.
Method/Application
All manufacturers’ data sheets carry charts to show how
to calculate the amount of grout required. One of the
main things to remember is that the hole should have
rough edges, not smooth, and the bar is rough as well,
for example, a thread or a re-bar with ridges. This stops
the ‘pullout’ of a fixing. When installing street furniture
you may come across the word ‘ragging’ - this is simply
small pieces of scrap metal welded onto the part of
the structure going into the ground to give a ‘key’ or
something for the grout to hold onto. As mentioned,
Don’t Forget
Sealant guns, mixing paddles, gloves, goggles, cleaners,
bolts, rebar.
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Stay well away from strength calculations, it’s the job of
the Site Engineer to specify strengths.
Pros and Cons
Pros for polyester grouts
• Rapid setting.
• Convenient, especially in cartridge form.
• Sets under water.
• Lesser health risk than epoxy.
Cons for polyester grouts
• Unsuitable for large jobs.
7
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Curing Membranes
Definition
A liquid membrane applied to concrete surfaces to prevent water loss - think of it as liquid applied cling film.
Typical Uses
Floor slabs • Retaining walls • Columns • Piers • Pavements • Concrete roads
Purpose
Concrete cures by chemical processes as opposed to
hardening by drying. The water content of the mix is a
part of that chemical process and it is important that it
is not allowed to escape. If it does the concrete surface
may crack or become weak. This is important especially
where a loose or cracked surface would lead to problems
with further finishes or where the friable surface would
give a long lasting dust problem. To prevent rapid
evaporation of water from the mix normally due to hot
weather or wind a curing membrane is applied to the
surface of freshly laid concrete.
Method/Application
Before liquid applied curing membranes, people used to
use damp Hessian, plastic sheeting or sometimes would
‘wet down’ the surface with a hose in hot weather to
keep the water in the mix. All these methods are really
a bit hit and miss. Concrete will give certain predictable
strengths, when laid, and allowed to cure under perfect
conditions. To help ensure that concrete hardens with
the closest possible performance to the ideal, chemical
manufacturers created spray on membranes that are
applied to freshly laid concrete to do this. In general,
the membrane – although applied as a spray - must be
removed by mechanical methods if a further treatment is
required, i.e. a floor coating or paint. Curing membranes
are used whenever concrete surfaces are laid or
wherever cement based concrete repairs are made.
The membranes are applied using a sprayer, typically a
knapsack type, directly onto the surface. Normal usage
rates are 5m2 per litre, so use this as a guide when
calculating how much you will need. Resin based, water
or acrylic systems are available (choice is often down to
cost, basically pay less get less performance).
8
Pros & Cons
Pros
• They are very effective.
• Popular.
• They can be used as soon as the concrete is ‘green’ at this stage you should be able to walk on the surface
to apply the membrane without causing damage, the
surface water should have gone but the surface may
still have a sheen. All other systems need to be reapplied, i.e. wetting down regularly or need to be
checked on regularly, such as plastic sheeting in a
windy location.
• Their use means that the predicted characteristics of
the finished concrete are more likely to be achieved.
• They are quick to apply.
• They are easy to apply.
• Unlike plastic sheeting you don’t have to dispose of
them after use.
Cons
• None really.
Don’t Forget
Sprayers, brooms, floor paints, concrete repair materials
(most floors are damaged or imperfect when first laid),
PPE.
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Cementitous Concrete Repairs
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Definition
Any repair material in which the main constituent is cement.
Typical Uses
Repairing concrete, damaged floors • Walls •Ceilings • Freezer floors • Bridge structures • Bridge decks • Car park
columns and piers • Tidal situations • Tie holes • Steps and stairs.
Purpose
To repair and make good intentional damage such as
chasing in conduit, or imperfections experienced after
pouring concrete; also accident related damage such as
driving a truck into a wall or subsidence induced cracks
- basically anywhere concrete is damaged.
Method/Application
There are three broad categories for these repair
products.
1. Lightweight materials used on overhead repairs to
75mm or vertical repairs which need building up to
max of 100mm.
2. Standard repairs for floors, paths, steps.
3. High strength repairs for areas where there is
structural concrete, e.g., bridges and tunnels.
It is necessary to prime areas that are subject to repair,
whether it is with a purpose designed primer, clean water
or a slurry coat of the material itself. In cases where steel
is exposed it should be primed separately to prevent
corrosion and applied according to manufacturers
recommendations.
For all repairs you will need to work to a square (or
vertical edge) whether cut with a grinding wheel or saw
or chopped in using a chisel.
As a rule of thumb the minimum thickness is 10mm.
You can’t feather edge cementitious repairs (if you do
they soon lift and degrade). The area to be repaired for
all concrete repairs needs to be wet down with water
before beginning the repair – this is important to ensure
the ‘mixing water’ or liquid is not sucked out of the repair
compound. Ensure no ‘puddles’ are left in the repair area.
All cementitious repair compounds should be mixed in a
forced action mixer – or at the very least with a slow
speed drill and paddle.
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Almost all repairs are placed by hand (don’t forget your
gloves) and finished by trowel. Once the repair is finished
don’t forget it must be cured – spray with a curing
membrane, remembering to use a variety that would be
compatible with further decoration.
When the repair is finished it may look rough or stand out
from the surroundings. To address this, the manufacturers
recommend a fairing coat to use with the repair material.
A fairing coat is a skim coat that is designed to blend the
repair patch into the surrounding concrete. This can be
feather edged and applied by brush or trowel in very thin
layers, typically 1 - 3mm.
When repairing a floor, the materials are very similar to
lightweight products but are generally denser. Work to
a square edge, prime all steel, soak the concrete before
priming and cure afterwards. Normally floor repairs
are fast setting. If a high degree of chemical resistance
is required, or the repair is thin, i.e., less than 10mm,
switch to epoxy repair materials.
A number of repair products have DWI approval (DWI
- Drinking Water Inspectorate, formerly W.R.C - Water
Research Council) so any repairs for reservoirs or
potable water structures, you must use a DWI approved
material.
Sometimes cementitious repairs are referred to as
‘flowing concrete’ this simply means that the repair
material is pumped or poured into the repair, as it
behaves like pea soup – and looks like it!!. The repair
must be shuttered to keep the repair where it is needed
- 9 times out of 10 this is a specialist job by a specialist
contractor and he will use a pre-bagged flowing concrete
prepared off site.
9
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Cementitious Concrete Repairs cont.
Pros and Cons
Pros for cementitious concrete repairs
•
Repairing like materials with like materials.
•
Easy to use.
•
Economic.
•
Pre-blended – less room for error.
•
Complete systems, through to coatings.
Cons for cementitious concrete repairs
•
Slow strength gain.
•
Min. 10 mm thickness.
•
Low tensile strength.
Don’t Forget
Mould oil, gloves, mixing paddles, buckets, polythene,
brushes and primers, curing agents, rebar, trowels,
grinders, stones saws, cutting discs.
Additional Info
Like grout, the yield (volume) of a material is expressed
as litres, 12.5 litre bag means 1 sq. metre at 12.5mm
thick. Also concrete can be ‘repaired’ by gluing a broken
piece back together. For this purpose use a thixotropic
(stodgy like porridge) adhesive.
Do not use accelerators that contain
chloride it will rot embedded steel or
ironwork!
For free independent advice
Ask the Doc - always get it right!
10
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Resin Repairs
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Definition
Any repair material in which the main constituent is resin.
Typical Uses
Repairing gouges in concrete • Repairing concrete segments, panels • Re-profiling arrises on floor joints • Quick
repairs to trafficked areas • Repairing cracks to concrete • Impact absorbing repairs • Repairing bund walls.
Purpose
To repair or make good intentional or unintentional
damage, anywhere where concrete is damaged and
needs a thin, fast or chemical resistant repair.
Method/Application
There are three broad categories for resin repairs.
Type 1. Lightweight repairs – for ceilings up to 50mm
depth and walls up to 75mm depth.
Type 2. Standard repairs for floors, paths, steps.
Type 3. High strength repairs for areas where there is
structural concrete or traffic.
Almost all resin repairs need a primer, with exception
perhaps to ‘general mortars as in type 2 applications’
that may be ‘resin rich’, i.e. self priming. You must work
to a square edge with resin repairs - one advantage of
resin-based repairs is they can be used right down to
5mm (you can’t feather edge resin repairs, if you do they
soon lift and degrade). Almost all repairs are placed and
compacted into the repair area by hand and finished with
a trowel.
When the repair is finished it may look rough or stand
out from the surroundings. To get round this the
manufacturers usually recommend a fairing coat (a fairing
coat is designed to give a smooth surface and to eliminate
all minor blemishes). It is as strong as the repair but really
is used for cosmetic purposes and applied as a skim coat
and completely covers the repair and surrounding area.
This can be feather edged and applied in very thin layers,
typically from 1-3mm.
Only a very small number of repair products have DWI
approval (DWI - Drinking Water Inspectorate, formerly
WRC (Water Research Council), which is needed when
repairs are carried out in water treatment works etc.,
so assume any resin repair is not approved and CHECK
FIRST.
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For free independent advice
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Pros and Cons
Pros for resin repairs
• Fast setting products.
• Can be used in thinner sections.
• Ready graded resins – just mix and place.
• Require no curing.
Cons for resin repairs
• Can be expensive in volume.
• Surfaces must be dry.
• Temperature must be 5 deg. or above.
• Cannot part mix.
Don’t Forget
Mould oil, gloves, mixing paddles, buckets, brushes and
primers, rebar, trowels, grinders, stones saws, cutting
discs.
Additional Info
Like all ‘chemicals’ it is particularly prudent to avoid skin
and eye contact as well as fume inhalation. Unused resin
can become very hot, let caution be your watchword!
11
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Waterproofing Concrete
Definition
Water: - A combination of Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms in the ration of 2:1.
Proofing: - Impenetrable defence against.
Waterproofing: - Impermeable system.
So did you really need to have a definition for the word ‘waterproofing’? I think not, however, waterproofing is either,
keeping water out, or keeping water in, in all its forms.
Typical Uses
Basements • Exterior rendering • Cellars • Tunnels • Stopping rising damp • Underground car parks
• Single skin structures • Water tanks • Reservoirs.
Purpose
Nearly all concrete is porous. This means that most
concrete that does not have a waterproof system, by
design, absorbs water and eventually allows it to pass
through once saturated. If you think back to your school
geography lessons some of the world’s most impressive
geographical features were fashioned by water, think
Grand Canyon, Cheddar Gorge etc. So, water is a
powerful force; it penetrates, erodes and carries in it
(dissolved) various chemicals, salts and minerals that can
corrode or damage structures. Water can be a liquid, a
vapour and a solid. It can be any of these three states
at varying times. Think school geography again and the
erosion of rocks by freeze thaw or the damage caused
to some of our great churches and cathedrals by water
and what it carries. Bearing all this in mind it is no wonder
that water, water vapour and the effects of freezing
provide the core reason for waterproofing any concrete
structure. If the water is locked out it can’t cause damage,
it’s that simple.
One further comment, most water damage is caused
over a long period of time and not instantly like a
flash flood. Water can creep along reinforcing bars or
penetrate into concrete structures with no external signs
that the damage is occurring. This means that by the time
damage is evident to the naked eye the repairs are usually
costly and comprehensive. Waterproofing concrete is
the best construction chemical example of prevention
being better than cure. Most architects will tell you that
enemy number one for any structure is water!
12
Uses/Application
Waterproofing systems are generally:
1) A liquid product, added to water (this must be precisely
measured), mixed with cement and aggregate to
become an integral part of the concrete, generally
used in external rendering or basement tanking.
Liquid waterproofing is used for new build and
remedial work.
2) Sticky backed plastic used as a sheet membrane is
most commonly used on the external surfaces of a
structure to keep water out - care must be taken
when using a sticky back sheet that the joins (the
most likely area for water to get in) are properly
sealed. A primer or sealing coat is applied first.
The sticky back sheets need to be held firmly in
place (sometimes the water pressure can force the
sheet away from the surface). The most common
method, when waterproofing internally, is to apply
the sheet then build a wall within five centimeters of
the membrane and fill the gap with a weak concrete,
thereby supporting the membrane. If waterproofing
externally, the sheet must be protected from back
filling with a protection board. It goes without saying
that if the sheet is punctured it won’t do its job, so no
nails! Approx. 90% of sheet waterproofing is used
below ground on new builds.
3) Slurry coatings are (cement products) mixed with
water to the consistency of emulsion paint and
brushed onto the surface in two coats, 1 coat north/
south, 1 coat east/west. Can be used internally and
externally, very easy to use, mostly remedial.
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Waterproofing Concrete cont.
OK, so far so good; but, and it’s a big but, waterproofing
is not a single hit or application. To keep water out you
require a system or combination of methods. A bit
like this; if you waterproof the floor of a building what
happens to the water? Well, it comes up against the floor
and moves outwards. Then it comes up against the wall.
So it travels up the wall. So you need to waterproof the
wall.
?
Don’t Forget
Waterproof primer, concrete repair materials, trowels,
mixing buckets, gloves, PPE.
Additional Info
Do not underestimate the value of waterproofing on a
new structure - £20 spent at the construction point could
save £1000’s as remedial work!
If you waterproof the outside of a structure what happens
to any water vapour or liquid inside the building? Do you
waterproof the inside? You would be forgiven for thinking
that the best thing to do would be to build everything out
of rubber. On a serious note however, waterproofing
must be considered over the whole build as a system
and should be designed into the structure from the
beginning.
What product? What system? Not sure?
For free independent advice
Ask the Doc - always get it right!
Pros and Cons
Pros for waterproofing systems
• Liquid additives are inexpensive, easy to apply.
• Sticky back plastics are easy to apply to a primed
surface and cover cracks.
• Slurry coatings need to be applied to concrete or
mortar to work and not wood they rely on free lime
in the concrete to work.
Cons for waterproofing systems
• Liquid additives need very careful measuring.
•
Sticky back plastics need skill and practice to apply,
and need to be protected from damage. They also
need to be supported as in certain circumstances
water pressure may cause them to detach.
• Slurry coatings need the surface on to which they are
applied to be very carefully prepared, e.g., no flaking
and crumbling etc., they must be firm and solid and
damp!
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13
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Pavior and Slab Sealing
Definition
A liquid, applied after installation to slabs and paviors to stabilise the jointing sand and protect the surface.
Often-dual purpose and called sealer and stabiliser.
Typical Uses
Shopping Centers • Garage forecourts • Domestic drives • Car parks • Walkways.
Purpose
Really this is two fold. Firstly, most paviors and slabs are
to some degree porous, therefore the use of a sealer
helps prevent staining and discolouration from water,
chemicals, acids, oils, petrol etc., - think of the abuse a
garage forecourt gets.
Secondly, paviors and slabs are jointed with kiln-dried
sand, specially provided for the purpose of ‘locking’ the
paviors together. This sand is brushed into the joint,
where it performs a vital part in maintaining the integrity
of the paved area. If the sand is left with no treatment it
can be lost through the constant effect of rain, flooding,
mechanical street cleaning, or brushing. Once the sand
has been removed, water mixes with the bedding
material, making it fluid and the paviors and slabs begin
to move. A little at first, maybe less than the eye can see,
but eventually the rocking allows the sand underneath
to erode and you end up with those annoying slabs that
when you tread on them send a jet of dirty water up
your trouser leg. This maybe amusing to your mates, but
the trip hazard caused by this erosion costs UK councils
over £40 million a year in compensation claims, not
counting refurbishment costs.
So, and after a long preamble, we come to the crux
of point two. If the sand in the joints is stabilised then
the chances of the slabs moving, is eliminated and the
trip hazard with potential claims are removed. The joint
sealer soaks into the sand turning it into a solid mass
creating a rubbery consistency a bit like liquorice but not
black. Because the sand is held together it doesn’t get
brushed out or eroded by rain, and so remains in place
to do its job – simple what!
14
Uses/Application
Anywhere that sand is used for jointing, a sealer /
stabiliser should be used. In some unusual cases where
the pavior is not very porous or where the pavior is likely
to effloresce, then a specialist sealer may be needed
(efflorescence is the salts coming out of the concrete, and
crystallizing, it looks very like white bloom or mould).
Pros and Cons
Pros for sealers and stabilisers
• Protects.
• Seals.
• Stabilises.
• Reduces trip hazards.
Cons for sealers and stabilisers
• Can change appearance of paviors.
• Must be applied to dry surface.
Don’t Forget
Application tools, e.g., squeegees, buckets, rollers,
cleaners.
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Sealants and Adhesives
?
Definition
Sealant: A substance (putty like) designed to fill a designed gap, with certain Elastic qualities; a sticky gunge.
Adhesives: Adhesives stick stuff together. Nowadays there is an adhesive available to stick almost anything to
anything, including men in boiler suits to boards slung under a helicopter… remember the TV advert? All the
good names have gone, Gripfill, No More Nails, Pritt “the non sticky sticky stuff” but they describe perfectly
the best scenario for an adhesive.
Purpose
Sealants are used in the many voids or channels that
are built into the design of structures, for movement/
expansion reasons. These gaps or joints must be
sealed from ingress of water and other fluids, and be
capable of withstanding a variety of conditions, including
atmospheric deterioration and chemical attack. They
must also be capable of being fuel and oil resistant or be
able to withstand traffic.
Adhesives are used wherever two surfaces need to be
bonded and no other mechanism will work, for example
mortar, nails, welding etc and where the properties of an
adhesive such as flexibility or waterproofing are a technical
requirement of the joint. For example no one would
ever consider nailing on a waterproof membrane!
Will it stick? Why, in Britain, do we not
trust construction adhesives, why do we
screw and glue, need reassurance, need to
trust the glue you use. For peace of mind
and free independent advice
Ask the Doc - always get it right!
Method/Application
There are over 27 variations on sealants, but here we
concentrate on the main 8, they are:
a) Silicone, as in kitchen sealant, used for sealing up
formwork, prior to grouting
b) One part polysulphide, for sealing external joints in
brickwork and cladding
c) One part polymer sealants for surface damp
applications - multi purpose use
d) Two part polysulphide sealant for civils works, pouring
and gun grade
e) Hot poured rubber sealants for tough joints in concrete
pavements
f) Tough abrasion resistant epoxy based for floors chemical resistant
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g) Cold pouring fuel and oil resistant sealant
h) Single pack polyurethane sealant, multi-use rapid
curing and adhesive
Adhesives are used to stick many things – surprise
surprise; from precise engineering applications like the
structural bonding of concrete segments, slip bricks,
gluing protection boards to membranes or for simple
tasks like fixing skirting boards to tanked walls where
using nails or screws would puncture the waterproof
membrane. Many modern construction adhesives have
other properties other than the ability to stick. They may
be flexible when set and act more like rubber, they may
have high chemical or abrasion resistance or be suitable
for use in very cold environments.
In the main structural adhesives are mostly epoxy (i.e.
resin based two or three part systems), and are therefore
rarely part mixed, which means the entire contents of the
bag and bottle must be mixed together, so, it’s use it or
lose it. There are an increasing number of construction
adhesives that are not epoxy and not two part.
Adhesives come in liquid form (normally applied with a
brush or roller), paste form (trowelled on), and gunnable
systems which come in two types - all in one in a simple
cartridge or plastic sausage to fit in a dispensing gun,
applied direct to the area to be glued. This system means
that you can apply small amounts time after time in much
the same way as you would apply a regular bathroom
silicone sealant.
The other type is a two part adhesive where the
hardener is located within the cartridge. For this system a
specialist gun is sometimes needed and all have a special
mixing nozzle with a helical centre to mix the parts as
they are squeezed from the gun - some of the gunnable
systems are for internal use only. Remember cement
itself is a glue and with SBR added becomes a super sticky
bonding agent for concrete etc that effectively acts as an
adhesive.
15
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Sealants and Adhesives cont.
Don’t Forget
Sealants: Primers, applicator guns, disposable gloves,
cleaners, bond breaking tape, backing rod, polyethylene
sheet, fibreboard, bond breaking tape.
Adhesives: Cleaners, disposable gloves, stick-like objects
(for stirring).
Additional Info
All sealants should be placed against a backing rod or
joint filler with the appropriate bond breaker tape, (tape
placed into the joint between the joint filler – normally
foam or composite board – and the sealer which is
applied to the external or weathered side of the joint)
which stops the sealant adhering to the filler board. The
use of primers to prevent dust within the joint area and to
ensure a firm surface for the sealant to stick to is essential.
Manufacturers recommendations should be followed at
all times.
16
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Miscellaneous
Mould Release Agents are designed to allow concrete
to be struck from formwork/moulds (struck meaning
formwork removed from concrete cleanly, like a cake
from greaseproof paper). A thin spray is all it takes and
different grades are available, in the form of Category
1,2,3,4 and 5 (Cat 2 being a standard, Cat 5 being high
grade). Make sure like for like are compared for price
reasons.
Keying Agents/Surface Retarders are products
designed to stop the setting of concrete at the surface,
thereby allowing the cement to be washed away and
exposing the aggregate in order to provide a rough
texture and mechanical key for the next pour. Available
in gel form for vertical surfaces (aesthetic use) or liquid
for horizontal use, e.g., kicker joints, they are based on
molasses, which is sugar.
Swellable Water Bars/Sealant – new-ish Japanese
technology, a rubber strip typically 7mm x 20mm which is
fastened (glued) to a construction joint and encapsulated
in concrete, providing a watertight barrier by swelling
when in contact with water. Also available in gunnable
sealant form, can also be used around pipe entries and
conduit entries.
Large Joint Sealing is performed by using a bandage
system - 100mm or 150mm wide elastic sheet
membrane which is stuck over cracks, glued in place
with epoxy adhesive, then overcoated with the same
adhesive.
Injection Hose, a system of waterproofing after
concrete has been laid. A hose with holes in it is included
in the casting of the concrete, which allows resin to be
pumped into a construction joint, once the concrete has
set, and if the concrete is leaking. Quite specialised.
Adafoam, foam joint filler, is a product that should
used with sealants. It comes in a range of sizes and
thicknesses.
?
Floor Coatings can be discussed til the cows come
home, they can be separated into two main types 1) Water based for foot traffic, gererally 250 microns
thick.
2) Solvent free, laid about 500 microns and can take
heavy wheeled traffic. If the floor has not been down
28 days, it is possible to use a water based coat as a
primer then a solvent free top coat.
And……..Brick acid is caustic, use gloves and masks.
Silicone water repellent etches glass, the Aluminium
Sterate version can be injected into walls as a DPC.
PVA (diluted 1:5) is a cracking way of dustproofing stone
fireplaces etc. When using dustproofers, make sure
you wash down after, if it crystilizes on the surface you
will need dynamite to remove it! (Incidentally, its based
on Silicate of Soda – oddly enough used preserved
eggs in the war. Cement colours must be mixed dry
with cement. To avoid the 1 failure in 50 where Floor
levelling compounds de-bond always prime with PVA
diluted 1:5 (by volume); if a floor does de-bond, don’t
despair, use a purpose made sealer/filler. Plasticiser is
normally added to the gauging water, but if the drum is
not emptied properly, and more is added, after a few
days it will become too concentrated. Vinsol Resin, the
main component of organic plasticizers, comes from the
bark of a tree. External plate bonding is nothing to do
with picnics, it’s about gluing strips of Carbon Fibre Kevlar
to the underside of bridges or structures, thus increasing
their ability to accept higher loads. SBR is as near to a
wonder product as you will get, it is used for screeding,
waterproofing, concrete repair and bonding! Don’t use
standard accelerators when there is steel in the concrete
they contain Calcium Chloride (the bit that works)that
is guaranteed to corrode any steel, chloride free ones
are available. When you use slurry waterproofing in a
basement, don’t expect it to be dry the next day, there is
a lot of condensation going to happen over a week.
Manhole Bedding Compounds have been sold for
years, but did you know why there are resin and cement
based types? Resin compounds must be used on ductile
steel covers because of the high tensile strength required
and cement should only be used with cast covers where
only compressive strength is a requirement.
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17
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Health & Safety
Health & Safety is a very important subject, and
consequently we made no light comment here.
Although it would be prudent to give blanket
instructions about wearing gloves, goggles and dust
masks, it would be more important to ensure all
operatives/sellers/movers of product know where
to find H&S data sheets, and also understand the
following symbols.
Use our web site to download Health &
Safety data sheets. For peace of mind and
free independent advice
Ask the Doc - always get it right!
18
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Glossary A-B
A:
Abrasion resistance:
The resistance of a hardened mortar surface to wear by
mechanical action.
Abutment:
The structure that provides the main support for a bridge
deck.
Adawall:
The UK’s best construction chemical distributor.
Additive:
A finely divided inorganic material that may be added
to mortar in order to improve or achieve special
properties.
Adhesion failure:
Failure occurring at the interface between mortar and
substrate or associated material. The value equals the
adhesive strength.
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Arris:
The edge occurring along the surface of a joint face.
B:
Back up material:
A material inserted in a joint that limits the depth of sealant
applied and defines the back profile of the sealant.
Backfill:
Replacing previously excavated earth on completion of
the structure.
Balls up:
Getting something completely wrong – usually with dire
consequences.
Base course:
Initial application of tarmacadam between the base
concrete and the wearing surface.
Admixture:
Organic or inorganic material added in small quantity to
modify the properties of the mortar in the fresh and/or
hardened state.
Base plate:
A steel plate welded onto the base of a steel column
through which the supporting bolts pass and are
tightened.
Aerobic:
Biological processes occurring in the presence of
oxygen.
Bay:
Area of horizontal concrete which forms part of a larger
slab - made up of individually formed bays.
Aggregate:
Granular material that does not contribute to the
hardening reaction of the mortar.
Bedding mortar:
A designed mortar used for grouting to bed machines or
materials. It can be cement or resin- based.
Air entraining admixture:
Admixture that allows a controlled quantity of small,
uniformly distributed air bubbles to be incorporated in a
mortar and which remain after hardening.
Bonding mortar:
A mortar to produce a first bonding coat in a multi-coat
system. It is usually applied in a thin coat.
Air guitar:
A pointless and ridiculous pastime for those enamoured
with heavy metal music.
Anaerobic:
Biological processes occurring in the absence of oxygen.
Anchoring mortar:
A designed mortar for fixing and anchoring materials.
Can be cement or resin based.
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Blinding:
Un-reinforced concrete applied over the hardcore to
form a solid base prior to pouring structural concrete.
Blinding night out:
What everyone will get, gratis, on the house, all expenses
paid, if we win the lottery jackpot!.
Bolt box:
A device for creating a void in concrete to allow the fixing
and grouting of anchors. Bolt boxes are usually made
from waxed card but can be polystyrene or wire mesh.
All bolt boxes must be removed before any grout is
placed.
19
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Glossary B-D
Bond breaker:
A thin strip material applied to the back of a joint to
prevent sealant adhesion.
Compaction:
Process of manual or mechanical treatment of fresh
mortar that increases its density.
Bridge deck:
The elevated part of the bridge that carries the traffic (may
be either foot or vehicular). Supported on abutments.
Compatibility:
The ability of a sealant to remain in contact with
another material without adverse physical or chemical
interaction.
Bridge bearing:
A supporting pad on top of an abutment on which the
deck rests.
Bridge evening:
Sound middle class entertainment where a group of
friends get together ostensibly to play cards, drink sherry
and eat nibbles. Can be highly competitive.
Butt joint:
A joint having opposing faces which may move towards
or away from each other.
C:
Capillarity:
Capacity of a mortar to absorb water not under applied
pressure. There is no relation between porosity and
capillarity.
Cementitious adhesive:
A mixture of hydraulic binder(s), aggregates, polymeric
agents and other organic additives used to bond
materials.
Cementitious concrete repairs:
Any repair material in which the main constituent is
cement.
Clerk of Works C.O.W:
The clients’ or architects’ representative on site. When
on site be sure to ask to see the site COW.
Centrally placed waterstop:
A PVC on rubber waterstop placed within the concrete
during the pour (Watafoil/Hydrofoil). Normally used in
water retaining structures.
Cohesion failure:
Failure occurring within the mortar layer (where the
strength of the mortar is lower than that of the substrate),
or failure occurring in the substrate (where the strength
of the mortar is higher than that of the substrate).
20
Compressive strength:
Maximum value of a mortar failure determined by
exerting a force in compression at two opposite points.
Construction joint:
A joint between stages of construction not intended to
accommodate movement.
Contraction joint:
A joint where initial movement results from shrinkage of
the material(s) forming the structure.
Correction time (adjustability):
The maximum time interval during which adjustment
is possible without significant loss of final strength, e.g.,
correction of bricks or tiles after application of the
mortar.
Correction time (recreational):
A professional service much favoured by MP’s, judges
and others in high positions.
Crack bridging:
Ability of a mortar to span dynamic or static cracks.
Cure time:
The time taken for a chemically reactive sealant to reach
its fully hardened or rubber like state.
Curing membrane:
A liquid membrane applied to concrete surfaces to
prevent water loss. Think of it as liquid applied cling film.
D:
Damp proofing mortar (renovation mortar):
A designed mortar for use on moist walls containing
water soluble salts.
Deck joint:
The joint between the elevated bridge deck and the
approach surface adjoining it. Also a joint between two
bridge beams.
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Glossary D-G
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Durability:
The mortar resistance to chemical, mechanical and
climatic conditions which comprise its effective life.
Finish coat:
A render consisting of mineral and/or organic and/or
inorganic materials forming the final coat of an EWI
system.
E:
Finnish coat:
Sturdy outer garment much favoured by Scandinavians.
Efflorescence :
Crystallisation of salts on the surface of a structure.
Float:
A tool offering a method of providing a smooth level
finish for horizontally placed concrete slab (e.g. floors).
Can be either by hand or machine.
Elastomeric:
A sealant having rubber like properties.
Elastojohnny:
A rubber having sealant like properties.
Expansion joint:
A joint between adjacent concrete surfaces, which is
designed to take expansion and contraction movement
within the structure.
Epoxy mortar:
Resin consisting of three parts, a base and a hardener and
reactor; mix at the time of use to activate.
Epoxy grout:
An epoxy grout is one that contains a thermosetting
resin, i.e., one where the setting reaction gives off heat.
External waterstop:
PVC waterstop (rearguard type), placed either on to the
outside wall of a structure or underneath the slab. Can
be expansion joint or construction joint type.
F:
Factory-made mortar:
A mortar batched and mixed in a factory. It only requires
the addition of water, or a liquor, to activate.
Filler board:
Board or sheet material filling the majority of a joint
cavity. Used in in-situ concrete to form the joint cavity at
the time of concrete placement.
Fillet seal:
A triangular section of sealant applied to surfaces at right
angles.
Fillet ‘o’ fish burger:
Marine lunchtime delicacy of the fast food variety much
favoured by site workers.
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Forced action mixer:
A mixer where the material is physically pushed around,
as opposed to the normal ‘free-fall’ mixer. Used to mix
grouts, floor screeds etc.
Formwork (Shuttering):
A temporary timber/steel framework erected to a given
shape to accept and contain in-situ concrete prior to it
hardening - coated with mould oil.
Free fall mixer:
A typical orange mixer found on building sites with a
rotating drum with integral blades. Used for mixing
concrete and mortar. Makes noise like ‘plop’.
G:
Gaffer:
Site foreman, one person to get on with.
Gauging water:
Clean water used to activate ingredients in any cement
based chemical. The term gauging water is used because
sometimes additives are mixed with the water before
adding to the product, e.g., plasticiser.
General-purpose mortar:
A mortar that satisfies general requirements, but is
without special characteristics. It can be produced as
prescribed and/or designed mortar.
Green concrete:
Concrete that is partially or very recently cured.
Green party:
A collection of ageing hippies, vegetarians and tree
huggers who protest about road building and various
construction projects usually through the medium of
occupation with a good deal of shouting, the most
famous of whom was Swampy.
21
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Glossary G-K
Grout:
Any material designed to fill a gap and set, with certain
characteristics. Gaps can be the space between two
different materials, e.g., steel base plates to concrete,
joints between concrete sections, cracks in walls, floors
and ceilings, in fact any construction gap either created
intentionally or one that appears due to stresses and
strains.
Grout:
Surly inmate of Slade Prison.
Grout additive:
An ‘add it yourself’ version of the active ingredient used
by manufacturers of pre-bagged cementitious grouts.
Grouting mortar:
A fluid mortar used for grouting cavities, voids or joints
between materials.
Gun grade sealant:
A sealant that allows application to a joint of any aspect of
inclination without a slump at ambient temperature.
Gunite mortar:
A dry or semi-dry mortar for dry spray application.
(Generic trade name Gunite ).
H:
Hard hat:
Tough plastic head protection. Compulsory on most
construction sites.
Hardcore:
A stone fill used as partial foundation.
Hardening time :
The time during which the mortar develops strength.
This time generally corresponds in practice to the time
after which load may be applied to the element.
Hardening time (medical):
Precise clinical measure of the speed and efficiency of
Viagra.
Helical mixing blade:
A mixing blade shaped like a helix. Helical blades
incorporate air into the mix and are not suitable for
high strength repair materials or structural grouts and
mortars.
22
Hot poured sealant:
A sealant, which has to be heated and melted under
controlled conditions to enable it to be poured into the
joint.
I:
Impermeability:
Resistance of a mortar to penetration of water, under a
certain pressure.
Induction:
Complex ritual designed to keep you and others safe
on site. The ritual involves demonstrating knowledge of
all aspects of site safety and normally requires a solemn
promise not to tell any mother-in-law jokes.
Injection mortar:
A fluid and/or thixotropic designed mortar to fill cracks or
cavities. Applied by injection under pressure and can be
cement or reaction resin based.
Intumescent:
A sealant or material which at an elevated temperature
expands to form a foam-like mass within the joint which
reduces heat transfer and provides a barrier to the
passage of flame and smoke.
J:
Joint bandage:
A means of waterproofing a moving joint by sticking an
elastic membrane strip over the joint.
Joint filler:
A comprehensible board or sheet material used to fill
movement joints during their construction.
Joint smoker:
Right on dude, hippy or drop out. Anyone not quite with
it ...man!
K:
Kicker:
A small up-stand at the edge of a slab designed to move
the joint above floor level.
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Glossary K-P
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Kryptonite:
Used extensively in the manufacture of technical
mortars.
Mineral rendering/plastering mortar:
A mix of one or more inorganic binders, aggregates, and
sometimes admixtures and/or additives, used as external
renders or internal plasters.
L:
Mineral wool:
Insulation material having a woolly consistency
manufactured from molten rock, slag or glass.
Laitance:
The weak surface layer that can occur on cementitious
materials, consisting of cement and fine sand particles.
Lap joint:
A joint formed where the joint surfaces overlap such that
a shear force will be applied to the sealant.
Lap dancing joint:
A joint where a member of staff overlaps the customers
surfaces such that a sheer force will be applied to the
customers wallet.
Levelling mortar:
A designed mortar for levelling floors or screeds to obtain
a flat and smooth surface.
Lightweight mortar:
A designed mortar with a dry density below
1.400 kg/m3.
M:
MAF:
Movement accommodation factor, the total movement
range between maximum compression (joint closure)
and maximum extension (joint opening) that a sealant
can tolerate in service. It is expressed as a percentage of
the minimum joint width.
Masonry mortar:
A mix of one or more inorganic binders, aggregates,
additives and/or admixtures, used for laying masonry
units. It can be a thick or thin layer.
Maturing time:
The interval between the time when a mortar is mixed
and the time when it is ready to use.
Mineral coating:
A coloured factory-made mortar based on mineral
binders (cement, lime, gypsum...) for the protection and
decoration of vertical surfaces.
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Monolithic application:
Application of a new layer of mortar directly onto the
preceding one before the latter has finished setting.
Mortar:
A mix of one or more inorganic or organic binders,
aggregates, fillers, additives and/or admixtures.
Multi-component mortar:
A mortar with separate pre-batched components (e.g.
powder + liquid) to be mixed together on site.
O:
One-coat mortar:
A designed rendering mortar applied in one coat
which fulfils both the functions of weatherproofing and
decorative appearance. It is usually coloured.
One component (part) sealant:
A sealant supplied ready for use, no mixing being
required.
P:
Padstone:
A concrete block, cast in-situ or pre-cast on which a
steel, concrete beam lighting or sign column sits on and
is secured to usually with bolts.
Pixie dust:
Vital active ingredient found in all construction chemicals
giving it magic properties.
Plasticising admixture:
Admixture which, without affecting the consistence,
permits a reduction in water content of a mortar, or
which, without affecting the water content increases the
flow, or which produces both effects simultaneously.
23
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Glossary P-S
Plugging mortar:
A mortar to stop water leaks. Normally very fast setting.
Pointing mortar:
A mortar to point between masonry units. This is called
a grout when used for ceramic tiles.
Polyester grout:
A two part synthetic resin or mix of resins that allows
the grout to be mixed in varying ways from putty to the
consistency of double cream.
Polyester trousers:
70’s style bags capable of generating vast amounts of
static electricity, a serious fire hazard and fashion ‘faux
pas’ of the highest order.
Polymer based coating:
A coloured polymer-based dispersion mortar for
protection and decoration of vertical surfaces.
Polysulphide:
Mixture of sulphides used commonly as a base for elastic
sealants.
Porosity:
Ratio between the volume of pores within the mortar
and the total volume.
Pot-life (working time):
Period of time during which, after mixing, a mortar
remains suitable for use.
Pre-batched mortar:
Constituents batched in a factory, supplied to the building
site and mixed there according to the manufacturer’s
specification and conditions (e.g. multi silo mortar).
Prescribed mortar:
A mortar made in pre-determined proportions, the
properties of which are assumed from the stated
proportion of the constituents.
Q:
Q S (Quantity Surveyor):
Normally responsible for sub-measurement
authorization of payment to contractors.
and
Quadriceps:
Large muscle at the front of the thigh, handy when
climbing tall ladders.
24
R:
Resin mortar:
A mixture of synthetic resin, mineral extenders and/or
aggregates and organic additives that hardens by chemical
reaction. The pre-batched components are packed ready
to mix together.
Reinforcement:
Wires, meshes or fibres added to mortars or material
incorporated within a render or concrete to improve its
mechanical strength.
Render/plaster coat:
A layer applied in one or more passes of the same mix,
with the previous pass not being allowed to set before
the next one is made.
Rendering/plastering system:
A sequence of coats to be applied to a substrate that
can be used in conjunction with a support and/or
reinforcement and/or a preparation treatment.
Repair mortar:
A designed mortar for the repair or replacement of
defective concrete. It can be structural (contributing to
the strength of the construction) or non-structural.
R E (Resident Engineer):
The clients’ or consultant engineers’ representative on
site.
Reinforcing steel-re-bar:
Length of steel bar of varying thickness placed within the
concrete to increase its strength. Can also be in mesh
form for horizontally placed concrete.
Retarder:
Admixture for mortar that delays the beginning of
hardening.
S:
Sealant:
A substance (putty like) used to fill a designed gap, with
certain elastomeric qualities; a sticky gunge.
SBR:
Styrene Butadiene Rubber to give it it’s full title is as near
to a wonder product as you will get. A liquid formulation
always used with OPC or OPC sand mix it is used for
the following. Screeding to strengthen the mix, making
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Glossary S-T
thinner applications stronger and more flexible; 15mm
of SBR screed is the same strength as 50mm regular 5:1
mix. Waterproofing, SBR fills in all the little air gaps in
concrete reducing water absorption, Concrete repair,
SBR strengthens and bonds when mixed with OPC or
OPC sand mix. Bonding, SBR is regularly used to bond
copings, brick slips etc used in the mortar mix.
Screed:
Layer of mortar laid in-situ, directly onto a base, bonded
or un-bonded, or onto an intermediate layer or insulation
layer to produce a defined level, to carry the final flooring
to provide a wearing surface.
Self-smoothing:
The capacity of a liquid fresh mortar to form a smooth
surface itself.
Semi-finished factory-made mortar:
Pre-batched mortar or premixed lime-sand-mortar.
Setting time:
The time after which the mortar begins to harden. After
this time the mortar is normally stable in the presence of
water.
Shear strength:
Strength determined by a force applied parallel to the
mortar surface.
Shelf life:
The time of storage under stated conditions during which
a mortar may be expected to retain its intended working
properties.
Site Agent/Site Manager:
The Contractors’ representative on site.
Sliding membrane:
A low friction PVC type material in standard widths,
placed between 2 concrete surfaces to assist in lateral
movement, e.g. joint between top of wall and edge of
roof.
Slump resistance:
The ability of a sealant to remain within the confines of a
joint, both during application and throughout its service
life.
Slipperiness:
Capacity of a floor wearing surface to provide friction to
resist slipping by foot or wheeled traffic.
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Smoothing mortar:
A designed mortar for the finishing of a substrate to
obtain a plane and smooth surface. It is used for walls
and ceilings.
Soffit:
The exposed horizontal under surface of a part of a
building, structure or arch.
Spalling:
Splintering or chipping of a joint face or edge.
Stanchion:
The support (usually steel) around the perimeter of a
building which supports the roof members - usually has a
base which requires grouting.
Substrate:
Immediate surface to which the mortar is to be applied.
In the case of a coating to be applied to an existing render,
the render would be the coating’s substrate.
Surface hardness:
The resistance of the surface of a hardened mortar to
indentation by a loaded steel ball.
Swellable sealant:
A gun applied sealant, when set, absorbs water and
closes all gaps, preventing ingress/leakage.
T:
Tamp:
A means of compacting in-situ concrete by hand. Usually
carried out by 2 operatives each holding one end of a
length of timber on edge. Provides a rough finish.
Tanking:
Means of totally coating a structure with a waterproof
membrane.
Tensile strength:
Resistance of a mortar surface, to resist a tensile force,
applied perpendicular to the mortar surface.
Thermal insulating mortar:
A designed mortar with specific thermal insulating
properties.
Thin layer masonry mortar:
A designed masonry mortar for joints between 1mm and
3mm thick.
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Glossary T-W
Thixotropy:
The change of consistency of a fresh mortar when energy
is applied as for example by stirring or shaking.
Tooling:
Smoothing and finishing of the sealant in the joint
immediately after application.
Two component (part) sealant:
A sealant in which the reactive components have to be
mixed together prior to application.
U:
Undercoat:
The lower coat (or coats) of a system.
Width: Depth Ratio:
The ratio of the width of a sealant to its depth. Important
in elastomeric sealants to minimise stresses arising from
movement.
Wing wall:
A retaining wall tapered from the abutment to retain
backfill in an elevated structure.
Wing Ding:
Near or offside damage to works van during unauthorized
trip to the Chinese takeaway.
Workability:
The sum of the application properties of a mortar that
give its ease of use.
Undercoat mortar:
The lower coat(s) of a rendering/plastering multi-coat
system. It is normally covered with a finish coat.
W:
Waterbar:
A physical presence of material, i.e. rubber extrusion or
swellable sealant built into a structure at a joint, eliminating
the passage of water.
Water excluding structure:
A structure designed to keep water out and prevent
inward passage (e.g., basement)
Water retaining structure:
A structure designed to retain fluid and prevent outward
passage (e.g. reservoir, sewage tank).
Water retentivity:
The ability of a fresh hydraulic mortar to retain its mixing
water when exposed to substrate suction.
Waterproofing mortar:
A designed mortar which prevents water penetration in
a substrate, under a stated pressure.
Weatherproofing mortar:
A mortar which resists rain penetration and protects the
substrate from weather (e.g. external rendering and
one-coat mortars are weatherproof).
Wetting capability:
The ability of a fresh mortar to wet the substrate or an
associated material to facilitate its adhesion.
26
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On Site Chemical Applications
?
Doc, which
construction
chemicals are
used here ?
“Well, in this portal frame building, as well as the grout for
underneath the steel columns, you will need resin anchors
for the bolts, dustproofer and sealers for the floor, sealants
for the floor joints and fire retardant sealers for columns.
Don’t forget you will need grout mixers/drills, sealant guns,
rollers, brushes and squeegees could be used”.
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27
?
On Site Chemical Applications cont.
Any thoughts
on bridges Doc ?
“With bridge abutment wings, you will need curing
compounds for all of the concrete, along with mould release
agent for the shuttering, the posts need to be resin fixed and
grouted with cementitious grouts, then possibly painted with
galvanised paint. The exposed aggregate surface will need
surface retarders, all the back of the structure will need
waterproofing and protection boards. As it is a road job, the
Department of Transport would require that the concrete be
sprayed with silane for waterproofing and on a nice structure
like this, anti-graffiti coatings would be a good idea”.
28
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On Site Chemical Applications cont.
?
What about
this site ?
“With a typical site like this you will need mould oils and
curing compounds for columns and floors, and resin fixings
for dowel bars. A waterproof system will be used, either
liquid or sheet system with protection boards, waterbars,
sealants and grouts. You will also need Sprayguard for
keeping tools clean and probably anti-graffiti coatings”.
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?
On Site Chemical Applications cont.
How about
installing
street furniture ?
“When dealing with street furniture contracts think about
resin anchors for bolting down items, anti-graffiti coatings,
grouts and pavior sealers along with joint stabilisers. You
may also need non-slip edges to steps/slopes etc. Will you
need resin bonded tree pit systems?”.
30
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Typical Installation Images
?
This is a construction joint, it needs
to be waterproof, therefore a
swellable waterbar is being glued
with swellable sealant.
Non-slip surface.
A two-part system, lay first coat, sprinkle
with sand, allow to dry, remove excess sand
before applying second coat.
You can hear him thinking “Hmmm, I need grout,
floor sealer, joint sealer, plasticiser, release agent,
curing compound, epoxy floor coating, manhole
bedding compounds, block pavior sealer”.
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?
Typical Installation Images cont.
External waterbar in concrete pour, after striking
- poor quality mould oil allows requires the use
of concrete repair compounds to make good.
Non-slip, self adhesive edge tape, a
simple, fast and safe solution.
Sprayed concrete giving protection
to core structures which have no
aesthetic appeal. ‘Gunnite System’.
32
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Typical Installation Images cont.
?
Bridge bearings are a typical use for
epoxy grout. Don’t forget silane and
anti-graffiti coating!
Bollards grouted, paviors sealed,
anti-graffiti coatings?
Pink water (honest), what’s in it?, who
supplied it?, must be a chemical (see gauging
water in the glossary)..
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?
Typical Installation Images cont.
Use of ‘Blackjack’ bitumen paint on retaining wall,
stopping water ingress, protected against backfill by
protection board.
Spot the join!
Saves digging out with a JCB and 4 hours labour.
Also repairs chamber rings, concrete sections,
floors, steps and concrete pipes. Nice trowel!
Hand application of lightweight, concrete repair,
being applied onto sticky primer and steel coated
with galvanised paint. Will need curing when finished,
possibly fairing coat and anti-carbonation paint. Gloves,
goggles and hat need renewing!
34
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Products you can trust
Curing Aid
A non-staining curing aid and
dustproofing solution for
concrete surfaces.
Uses/Advantages
• non-flammable
• assists premature drying
• reduces dusting
• can be overcoated
• 5m2 per litre
Pack size
20L
Mould Oil
General purpose mould oil, can
be used on steel, wood and GRP
formwork for early striking.
Uses/Advantages
• 30 m2 per litre
• non staining
• reduces formwork cleaning
to a minimum
• not affected by frost
• apply by brush or spray
Pack size
25L
Soil Stabiliser
A chemical additive and compaction aid, transforming spoil into a
re-usable backfill.
Uses/Advantages
• easy to use - just sprinkle
• eliminates tipping
charges and Land Fill Tax
• environmentally friendly
• no cost of removing spoil
• increases foundation strength
Pack size
25Kg
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?
Liquid
Waterproofer
A general purpose bitumen paint for waterproofing and weather protecting steelwork,
concrete and potable water tanks.
Uses/Advantages
• 10m2 per litre on smooth surfaces
• roller, brush or spray applied
• tough and flexible
• easily applied
• impermeable
Pack size
25L
Kerb Repair
A rapid-set repair compound for
repairing kerbs.
Uses/Advantages
• concrete grey in colour
• easily mixed and worked
• can be part mixed
• sets in minutes
• just add water
Pack size
16Kg
Epoxy Repair
Mortar
A trowel applied epoxy compound for the
rapid repair of concrete structures.
Uses/Advantages
• resin rich, no primer required
• good abrasion resistance
• 4mm to 25mm in one layer
• high strength
• chemical resistant
Pack sizes
5Kg, 10Kg
35
?
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Multi Grout
Manhole
Levelling
Compound
High strength multi-purpose cement
based free flowing grout.
Uses/Advantages
• 14 litres per pack
• high early strength
• non-reactive
• pump, pour, trowel and tamp
• does not shrink
Pack size
25Kg
A two component rapid setting mortar
for bedding manholes and gully grids.
Uses/Advantages
• easily mixed
• fast setting
• adjustable consistency
• traffic bearing
• fuel and chemical resistant
Pack size
15Kg
Black Patch
4 in1 Universal
Admixture
An instant pothole repair compound.
Uses/Advantages
• use straight from the bag
• economic
• easy to use
Pack size
25Kg
An SBR admixture for multi purpose use.
Uses/Advantages
• waterproofs renders
• strengthens concrete
• improves adhesion of all mixes
• workability aid
• enhances thin screeds
Pack sizes
5L, 25L, 230L
Post Mix
Resin Anchor
Fixing Paste
Fast setting concrete for posts and
bollards.
Uses/Advantages
• sets in minutes
• just add water
• easily workable
• no mixing required
A self mixing single cartridge resin for
anchoring bolts.
Uses/Advantages
• pumpable
• fits standard skeleton gun
• self mixing
• stress free fixing
• rapid set
Pack size
150ml
Pack size
25Kg
36
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Universal
Bedding Mortar
A fast setting bedding compound for
manhole covers, gully grids, kerbs and
mat wells.
Uses/Advantages
• high early strength
• easily workable
• just add water
• meets highways requirements
Pack size
25Kg
Precast Concrete
Repair Kit
General purpose precast concrete repair
kit, rapid setting.
Uses/Advantages
• just add water
• concrete grey in colour
• prime with water
• resealable containers
• sets in minutes
Pack size
5Kg
Spray Guard
A protective spray for tools and plant.
Uses/Advantages
• easy to apply
• reduces build up of mortar
• spray on - wash off
• minimises rusting on steel
• fresh mortar easily removed
Pack size
1L
Step Repair
Cement based, quick setting step
repair kit.
Uses/Advantages
• internal or external
• prime with water
• easily workable
• just add water
• sets quickly
Pack size
5Kg
Floor Repair
A fast setting repair medium for floors.
Uses/Advantages
• easily trowelled
• re-sealable container
• fast setting
• easily workable
• non-shrinking
Pack size
16Kg
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37
?
Adawall Construction Chemicals has a proven track record
of performance and quality from many years of supply to
the civil engineering and construction industry.
Also available:
• Non-slip coatings and tapes
• Anti-slip access ramps and GRP sheets
• Industrial and commercial floor coatings
• Anti-graffiti coatings and graffiti removal products
cal advic
ni
r help?
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Nee ech
For information, advice or sales please contact your local
stockist below. For technical advice...Ask the Doc!
0117 9415495
Your local Adawall distributor:
38
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