çatalca si̇li̇vri̇

Transcription

çatalca si̇li̇vri̇

tanbuş
istanbulturizmmerkezleri.org
ÇATALCA
SİLİVRİ
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Çilingoz
Yalıköy (P
SİLİVRİ
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Podima)
* Evcik Kilisesi
* Evcik Plajı
Anastasios Surları
Karaburun (Delkos)
Alaiye Şehitliği
* İnceğiz Köyü
* İnceğiz Mağraları
* Çatalca Su Kemerleri
ÇATALCA
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Çatalca- Silivri
Roman and Ottoman Cultural Bridges in Nature!
In this section, we invite you to discover two places ready to faithfully present their values hidden
within, despite all kind of troubles, along with their rather unspoilt nature, from the times of
pre-historic Istanbul up to the 21st century: Çatalca and Silivri.
Each of them has stubbornly preserved their own identities from the Stone Age to the present
day, although they have also been able to take much advantage of the benefits of the 21st century.
Çatalca
Thracian Çatalca, the largest district of the
metropolis of Istanbul on its European side,
while sustaining rapid development within
itself, was, up to the recent past, a “summer
excursion and beach region” for Istanbulites.
It has been a focus of interest not just for its
natural riches and attractive coastline, but
also for the Byzantine and Ottoman cultural
legacy it has sheltered within it.
At the forefront of these is the defensive
line of the still-standing “Anastasios Walls”.
First constructed in the 2nd Century,
it is followed by the Gümüşpınar and
Karamandere Aqueducts, with their traces
of Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman history,
and the Caves of the Inceğiz Monastery.
Çatalca; Ergiske, Matrai, Metron, Metris,
Haniçe, Çatalburgaz
When Çatalca was first founded in antiquity
by the Thracians, it was known as “Ergiske”,
as a reference to Ergiscus, the son of the
sea-god, Poseidon. In later periods, it took
on the names of “Matrai”, “Metron”, and
“Metris”. Metris comes from the name of
one of Alexander the Great’s generals, who
played a large role in the foundation of the
city. Evliya Çelebi wrote that it was known
as “Haniçe” in Greek because a Byzantine
king had given the castle that he had
restored the name of his daughter. During
Ottoman times, it was called “Çatalburgaz”,
and over time, it settled into the name of
Çatalca...
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Çatalca from the Balkan Wars to the
Republic
The most difficult period of Çatalca’s
history was experienced during the Balkan
Wars. The Ottoman army, which had a
suffered a defeat to the Bulgarians, retreated
to Çatalca as a last line of defence and
continued the war from there. Although
the Battle of Çatalca resulted in a defeat
for the Bulgarians, on 3rd December
1912 a ceasefire agreement was signed at
Çatalca Train Station, which meant that
the Bulgarians had effectively won the
battle. In the wake of this, a battalion of
Turkish soldiers from the Âlaiye division
were martyred in a sudden attack. After
the signing of the Treaty of London in
1913, when the Balkan states attacked
the Bulgarians, Turkish forces retreated
to the Midye (Kıyıköy) – Büyükçekmece
border, during the course of which Çatalca
was saved, but as the Bulgarians left they
set fire to all of its neighbourhoods apart
from the Kaleiçi District. Today, in the
region between Çanakça, Dağyenice, and
Yazlıkköy, where the bloodiest battles of the
Balkan War occurred, there is a memorial to
the martyrs of the Âlaiye battalion.
Çatalca Today
Çatalca, with an area of 1,715 km² and 135
km of coastline, most of which is covered by
forest, is now the largest district of Istanbul
province. Its economy is reliant on animal
husbandry, agriculture, and industry. It is
famous for its Topatan melons.
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Çilingoz
Yalıköy (Podima)
* Evcik Kilisesi
* Evcik Plajı
Anastasios Surları
Karaburun (Delkos)
Alaiye Şehitliği
* İnceğiz Köyü
ÇATALCA
SİLİVRİ
Topuklu Çeşmesi
Çatalca Tren İstasyonu
Eski Aya Yorgi Kilisesi Yeni Kaleiçi Camii
Çatalca Mübadele Müzesi
IV. Mehmet Han Hamamı
Ali Paşa Camii ve Çeşmesi
Eski Hükümet Konağı Yeni Jandarma Komutanlığı
* Ferhat Paşa Külliyesi ve Hamamı
* Ferhat Paşa Çeşmesi
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Charcoal Production in Çatalca
During the Ottoman Empire, it was
necessary for products in the country
that were surplus to the needs to come
to Istanbul. Wood and coal were very
important among these materials in
demand. The needs of the city were
generally met by the regions and associated
villages such as Yoroz (Beykoz), Şile and
Kandıra on the Anatolian side, and Silivri,
Çatalca, Istranca, Midye, and Terkos on the
European side.
Cultural bridge in nature - I: ÇATALCA
Çatalca Train Station
In the Ferhat Pasha Neighbourhood:
1.Ferhat Pasha Mosque Complex and
Bathhouse
2.Ferhat Pasha Fountain
3.Ali Pasha Mosque
4.Ali Pasha Fountain
5.Hacı Mahmut Fountain
6.“Sultan Mehmet Han IV” or Çatalca
Bathhouse
In the Kaleiçi Neighbourhood:
7.Old Saint George Church- New Kaleiçi
Mosque
8.Old Government Building - New
Gendarmerie Command Post
9.Topuklu Fountain
10.Çatalca Population Exchange Museum
11.Çatalca City Walls
Other important places:
12.İnceğiz Village - İnceğiz Caves
13.Çatalca Aqueducts
14.Anastasios City Walls (Karacaköy)
15.Evcik Church
16.Evcik Beach
17.Yalıköy- “Podima”
18.Karaburun: “Delkos”
19.Çilingoz
20.Âlaiye Memorial
21.Station
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Traces of Rome, Byzantium, and the
Ottomans...
1) Çatalca Train Station
What has this station not seen or witnessed!
Even in this condition, Çatalca Train Station
is a source of inspiration, even to artists in
the 21st century.
Such as the young thespian, Yeşim Özsoy
Gülan, who has put 1924 The Love of a
Century on the stage to pass on a part
of this to the generations of today and
tomorrow.
Web: http://galataperform.com/
yuzyilinaski/
In the Ferhat Pasha neighbourhood:
2) Ferhat Pasha Mosque Complex and
Bathhouse
One of the Ottoman Grand Viziers who
played an important role in the development
of the District of Çatalca was Ferhat Pasha,
who, at the end of the 16th century, had
Mimar Sinan build a mosque complex
composed of a mosque, a children’s school,
and a fountain. From the inscriptions it can
be seen that its construction date was 1006
in the Muslim calendar, which corresponds
with 1597-98 in the Western calendar.
The building, which was largely destroyed
during the Balkan Wars, was later restored,
and after the 1990s its hand-carvings were
also restored.
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3) Ferhat Pasha Fountain
The fountain, which is situated on the surrounding wall of the Ferhat Pasha Mosque, is in the
classical style. It is still in working order and has been used by the people of Çatalca for many
years.
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4) Ali Pasha Mosque
It is thought it was built by the eunuch,
Hadım Ali Pasha, or the local, Ali Efendi,
and is an example of the Classical Ottoman
Architecture, made from an alternate
arrangement of stone and brick.
The building was recently restored and is still
in use today...
5) Ali Paşa Fountain
The Ali Pasha Fountain was removed from
the earth in which it had been completely
lost in 1962. It is opposite the Ali Pasha
Mosque.
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6) Hacı Mahmut Fountain
A section of this fountain, whose water has
dried up, contains an extremely beautiful
thuluth script inscription which has survived
in its original state. It is thought that it is an
inscription on its restoration. According to
this, the fountain is dated back to 1301 in the
Muslim calendar, 1884AD in the Western.
7) Sultan Mehmet Khan IV or Çatalca
Bathhouse
This was built by Sultan Mehmed Khan IV
(the Hunter) for himself and his harem while
he was still a prince. The bathhouse bore
witness to the Balkan Wars and it was badly
affected. Between 1940 and 1941, General
Ismail Hakkı Tekçe had it repaired enabling
it to function up to the present day.
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8) Old Saint George Church - New Kaleiçi
Mosque
Saint George was the largest Greek church
in Çatalca during the Byzantine period. It
was later transformed into a mosque. Even
later, with the rising population, it was
deemed insufficient, so it was pulled down
and enlarged to its present state.
9) Old Government Building - New
Gendarmerie Command Post
The building, which is situated in the
Kaleiçi Neighbourhood and is today used
as a Gendarmerie Regional Command Post,
was long used as a Government Residence
during the Republican Era, and its bottom
floor was used as a prison.
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10) Topuklu Fountain
The Topuklu Fountain was built by Sultan
Ahmet II. There is an historical plane tree
in the square that contains the fountain,
which, along with the pool in front of it, has
preserved its original condition.
11) Çatalca Population Exchange Museum
There is no clear information about when
this building was first built. However, it was
either remodelled as a “Tavern” in 1913, or
it was built at this time for this use. It was
used as a tavern until 1923. It was restored
as the Population Exchange Museum and
opened to the public in December 2010.
This is the only museum on the population
exchange in Turkey.
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12) Çatalca City Walls
The walls were built by Emperor Anastasios
I, who was on the Byzantine throne between
491 and 518 AD, with the aim of protecting
the city from attack and are now only
ruins. It is thought that they were actually
constructed at two different periods.
Other Important Places
13) İnceğiz Village - İnceğiz Caves
These stunning caves in Inceğiz, the oldest
place of settlement in Çatalca, date back
2,500 years. The caves were built for shelter
and were later used as a church. This is
indicated by the crucifix symbols which have
found in rooms in the caves.
İn front of the caves flows the Karasu River,
which has a picnic area, for a fee, on its bank
that fills up at weekends. Because he made
a number of films here, the caves are also
known as the “Kemal Sunal Caves” among
the people.
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14) Çatalca Aqueducts
Throughout history, Istanbul has been
provided by water from this location. The
Ballıgerme and Kurşungerme, close to the
village of Gümüşpınar, still standing are
proof that they have stood the test of time.
They were built for Constantinople, which
was the largest city in the world in the fifth
century AD. There is an important reference
source on this subject in historical records;
Themistius records these water canals as
being, in the unit of measurement of the
period, “1000 stadia”, which means an
aqueduct with the length of 185 kilometres.
In the 20th century, some academics began
to research the traces of this aqueduct. James
Crow, from Edinburgh University, and the
late Prof. Kazım Çeçen carried out a study,
and Prof. Çeçen published a book describing
the waterway system, and the dimensions of
this wonder of engineering were laid out for
all to see for the first time. (See: TİÇK Blog)
Later. With the support of Istanbul Water
and Canalisation Office (İSKİ), other
waterways of the period, including those of
Mimar Sinan, were also put into a book. The
aqueduct in Kurşungerme near Gümüşpınar,
in all its glory, is particularly surprising for
those who see it. Today there are at least
five similar aqueducts within the bounds of
Çatalca alone.
In fact, at the “Bir Başkentin Su Yolları”
exhibition (*), organised by the Koç
University Anatolian Research Centre in
November 2013, both Çatalca and the late
Kazım Çeçen played a starring role…
(*) “Waters for a Capital, The Water Supply
Systems of Byzantine Istanbul/Constantinople:
New Approaches and Methodologies”, Web:
http://rcac.ku.edu.tr/events/exhibitions/
watersforacapital
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In Karacaköy
15) Anastasios City Walls
The Anastasios Walls, some of the most
important historical riches in Çatalca and
Thrace, are a work of the Early Byzantine
period which were repaired and completed
in the time of Anastasios I. Today they can
only really be understood to be a line of walls
when seen from a birds-eye view.
(See: Below “Silivri “section, “Anastasios
Wall”)
16) Evcik Church
This is found at a position which overlooks
the sea, at the point where the Anastasios
Walls meet the Black Sea. The building,
which is thought to be a work of the 11th
century, is now only a ruin. Because of its
architectural characteristics, it is thought that
it may have been a monastery.
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17) Evcik Beach
Evcik Beach is a beach within the
neighbourhood of Karacaköy on the
coast of the Black Sea. This endless beach,
reached by a road that redolent with history
and green forest, with its unsullied sea and
composed entirely of sand, is an ideal place
for relaxation at the weekend.
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18) Yalıköy - Podima
We recommend you see Yalıköy, which
reaches out to the European Black Sea,
is, along with Karaburun, one of Çatalca’s
two coastal villages. The village, which was
founded within 8,000 hectares of oak and
beech forests in the Istranca Mountains,
has a beach which stretches a whole 12
kilometres along the shore of the Black Sea.
The Population Exchange
After the Balkan War, Balkan Turks from
Skopje and Prizren, in what became
Yugoslavia, were settled in Podima. Turks
and Greeks lived here side by side for a
while. Later, with the population exchange in
1924, Turks were brought from Bulgaria to
replace the Greek population in the village’s
remaining sixty houses who went to Greece.
The Greek Church in Yalıköy was pulled
down, and a mosque was built in its place in
1955. Among its historical works are an old
castle, two caves, and cannons which are said
to have belonged to ships which were sunk a
long time ago.
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Sand, Glass, Camels and Camel Wrestling
As Yalıköy is also a forest village, the forest
that surrounds it is its largest source of
livelihood. A large section of its inhabitants
work in the production of charcoal and the
trading of it. Animal husbandry and fishing
is also carried out.
There is also a substantial silica mine in
Yalıköy. The Şişecam Group’s first silica sand
production began here in 1932. Today the
Silica Production and Purification Facility is
still at work to the east of Yalıköy.
The old name of Karacaköy, which is within
the forest at a higher altitude than Yalıköy,
was Metra. After the conquest of Istanbul, its
name was taken from the Ottoman standardbearer, Karaca Ahmet Pasha. In the old days,
camels were used to carry wood over the
rugged rocky outcrops, and for this reason,
there is also camel wrestling here.
What about those stones?
From Podima to Hacopulo
Even in the 21st century, there is a kind of
natural stone that is known by the name of
“Podima Stone”. Podima has a particularly
important place in ground decorations in
Turkish gardens; it is the pebbles that we
all know. It is possible to see how these
stone were used in the miniatures of Vehbi’s
Surname (“Book of Festivals”), which gives
detailed information about gardens in the
17th century.
You should also have a look at the Hacopulo
Passage which connects Istiklal Caddesi with
Meşrutiyet Caddesi in Istanbul…
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19) Karaburun: “Delkos”
Istanbulites at the illustrator and painter Haslet Soyöz’s exhibition entitled “From Delkos to
Karaburun” renewed their acquaintance with Karaburun through his reflections of the coast on
canvas. There are many “Karaburuns” (“Black Cape”) in Turkey and the most famous is the one
on the Aegean.
Here, particularly with its fishermen’s harbour and lighthouse, it is in an important position
of the region. Here, as well as the lighthouse, there is a Lifeboat Station contributing to the
security of the shore. Right in front of the lighthouse, the gravestones sticking out among the old
undergrowth are remarkable. Those lying here are the crew members and passengers who lost
their lives in accidents at sea.
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20) Çilingoz
Along the 13 km road that leads from
Yalıköy to Kıyıköy, you arrive at another
paradise that has not yet been built upon:
Çilingoz. This where the sea, river, and forest
meet, 17 km from the neighbourhood of
Binkılıç, and thanks to its campsites, it also
answers any needs for an overnight stay.
21) Âlaiye Memorial
Before leaving Çatalca, you could visit the
memorial set up to the memory of the 157
soldiers from Alanya who were martyred at
Çatalca during the Balkan Wars.
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Silivri
Silivri- Selymbria, Selybria
Silivri, which has preserved its importance in every age of history, was known as “Selymbria” or
“Selybria” in old Greek.
Silivri from Pre-History to Byzantium
According to superficial excavations in this
region, the first known settlement goes
back as far as 3000BC. In Greek and Latin
sources, it is said to be related to the city of
Troy.
It is recorded that the Thracians came to
the region some time after 1200BC and that
they founded Selymbria around 750BC. In
340BC, the city was besieged by King Phillip
II of Macedon, who was trying to bring a
large section of Thrace into his possession,
and it was later liberated from the Persians
by Alexander the Great. Selymbria came
under the influence of Eastern Rome in
330AD, at the time that Byzantium was
declared its capital city. In fact, the Emperor
Arcadius (377-408AD), before he married
Eudoxia, had a castle built in the city to
honour his wife and changed its name to
“Eudoxiopolis”.
When the empire was split into two in
395AD, various tribes began their invasions
of the city. The most important of these
was the invasion of the Ostrogoths. The
Emperor Anastasius, in 532, had a huge
45 km-long wall built, starting 2 km west
of Silivri and continuing to the Black Sea,
with the aim of protecting it from these
invasions.
In 805AD, the Bulgar Khan, Krum the
Horrible, sacked the city. Towards the end
of the 9th century, Emperor Michael III
(839-867AD) had the castle built on the hill
of the city, the remains of which are still
there. This was a period when Byzantium
was trying to protect itself from the attacks
of Russians and Muslim crusaders. During
the Byzantine era, Silivri became prominent
as a place for summerhouses. (See: Bakırköy
section, “Via Egnetia”)
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Coins of Selymbria
Two types of silver coin were in use in
ancient Silivri. There were those with a
cockerel-quadrangle motif circulated after
the death of Stamoulis between the years
492 and 470BC, and those with a cockerelwheatear motif belonging to the years 425420BC and 411-410BC.
Ottoman Silivri
Between the years 1327 and 1341, during
the course of struggles over the Byzantine
throne, the Ottomans began to enter and
leave the city. In 1346, while the Ottoman’s
were giving support to the Emperor
Cantacuzenus to help him defeat his rival,
Palaeologus V, in the same year Sultan
Orhan I married Theodora, the daughter
of John VI, in Selymbria. Despite the city
coming under Ottoman control in 1399,
until 1453, its ownership changed hands
frequently. During the reign of Sultan
Suleyman the Magnificent, Mimar Sinan
gave the city something magnificent in
1562: the 33-arch wonder of architecture
known as “Uzunköprü” (the “Long Bridge”).
Silivri was attached to the sanjak of Çatalca
in 1876, and became a district centre
attached to Istanbul in 1898. Silivri and the
lands around it suffered the invasion of the
Bulgars during the 1st Balkan War, and was
left in their hands from 16th November
1912 to 30th May 1913. After the London
Conference of 30th May 1913, with the
Midye – Enez line being accepted as the
border, it again became part of Ottoman
lands. Despite this, Greek soldiers entered
Silivri on 10th July 1920. However, with the
War of Salvation, the re-liberation of the
city from its occupation was made possible
on 1st November 1922.
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Mimar Sinan Köprüsü
Piri Mehmet Paşa Külliyesi
Hacı İsmail Ağa Çeşmesi
Silivri Limanı
Eski Yoğurthane Binaları
* Selymbria Kalesi
* Fatih Camii Eski Alexios
Apokaukos Kilisesi
Çilingoz
Yalıköy (Podima)
* Evcik Kilisesi
* Evcik Plajı
Anastasios Surları
Karaburun (Delkos)
Alaiye Şehitliği
* İnceğiz Köyü
ÇATALCA
SİLİVRİ
Beşli Yonca Havuzu
Büyük Duvar (Anastasios) Surları
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Silivri Today
The summer and winter population of
Silivri, which preserves its identity as a
coastal city, is different.
Cultural Bridge in Nature - II: SİLİVRİ
In the neighbourhood of Fatih:
1.Silivri - Selymbria Castle
2.Fatih Mosque / Old Alexios Apokaukos
Church
3.Alexios Apokaukos Church Cistern
4.Remains of the Saint Nectarius House
5.Silivri Harbour
6.Hacı İsmail Agha Fountain
7.Old Yoghurt Factory Buildings
8.The Five-Leaf Clover Pool
In the neighbourhood of Mimar Sinan:
9.Mimar Sinan Bridge: Sultan Süleyman
Bridge or Uzunköprü
10.Great Wall or Anastasios City Walls
1) Piri Mehmet Pasha Mosque Complex
and its Mosque
The Mosque Complex was built by Grand
Vizier Piri Mehmet Pasha during the reign
of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent (15201566).
According to the inscription on the mosque,
it was built between 1530 and 1531. The
records show that its Baroque minarets had
been rebuilt.
The appearance of the mosque today is a
result of the restoration carried out by the
Foundations General Directorate between
1961 and 1971. Today only the mosque,
the children’s school and a small room
belonging to the madrasah survive.
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In the neighbourhood of Fatih
2) Silivri - Seliymbria Castle
Although the identity of who built the
first walls around Silivri is not known, it
is thought that a basic wall was built at the
time of the city’s foundation and that this
was restored and widened in later years.
In the 6th century, the Emperor Justinian
repaired Anastasius’ long walls along with
Silivri Castle after a huge earthquake, and
two centuries later, Emperor Constantine V
(741-775) also restored the walls of Silivri.
The castle was restored for a final time
during the reign of Beyazid II (1481-1512)
after it suffered damage in an earthquake
known as the “Kıyamet-i Suğra” (“The Little
Apocalypse”). In later periods, because
Silivri was far from the borders, the walls
were seen as unimportant and were not
restored again.
3) Fatih Mosque - Old Alexios Apokaukos
Church
After the conquest of Istanbul, the Alexios
Apokaukos Church was one of the churches
which was converted into a mosque. It
was opened as a place of worship for
Muslims under the name of “Fatih Mosque”
(“Mosque of the Conqueror”) or “Fethiye
Mosque”. The mosque was also known by
Evliya Çelebi, in his Book of Travels, as the
Sultan’s Mosque. During the years of the
Greek occupation it was left completely
unmaintained. The present structure is the
Fatih Mosque that was rebuilt in 1980.
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4) Alexios Apokaukos Church Cistern
The church on top of this cistern that is
beneath the present Fatih Mosque was built
on a smaller scale. Works of art in the cistern
belonging to the Roman, Byzantine, and
Ottoman period, as well as other ancient
states, have been preserved.
5) Remains of the Saint Nectarius House
The home of Saint Nectarius, a renowned
saint and religious man who was born and
grew up in Silivri. As a result of research a
reconstruction project with documents and
photographs has been prepared but not yet
put into effect.
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6) Silivri Harbour
All of Silivri’s restaurants are excellent, but
the main recommendation from gourmet
writers is the Sofram Fish Lokanta!
7) Hacı İsmail Agha Fountain
This monument, which is adjacent to the
wall at the side of the road south-west of
the courtyard of the Piri Mehmet Pasha
Mosque, is the most remarkable work of
art that is still in a good condition among
the Turkish fountains of Silivri, and is a
rather plain example of the style which is a
mix of the Baroque and the Neo-Classical.
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8) Old Yoghurt Factory Buildings
This Turkish-style brick, single-storey
building is among the registered buildings
worth saving.
9) The Five-Leaf Clover Pool
This pool, which is situated on Soğukkuyu
Street in the Fatih Neighbourhood, has a
plain appearance in the form of a five-leaf
clover, made in the Baroque style.
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10) In the neighbourhood of Mimar Sinan:
Although Sinan designed this bridge for
the Ottoman armies off on their Balkan
campaigns, it was still carrying all kinds of
motor vehicles, from cars to heavy goods
trucks, up until 2006. It was restored and
given lights by the Motorways General
Directorate between 1982 and 1985. At
the end of 2006, it was closed to all vehicle
traffic.
It was built in 1568 by Selim II, the son
of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, and
dedicated to his father.
11) Büyük Wall or Anastasios City Walls
These walls are called “the Chinese Wall in
Istanbul” these days. Istanbul No.6 Culture
and Nature.
Don’t forget, don’t leave Silivri without eating
its yoghurt!
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çatalca si̇li̇vri̇

Transcription

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