Mexico File

here I was, beer in hand, straining
to see the 12” television in my
$38.00 room at La Posada de
Roger in Puerto Vallarta, celebrating with
another chug as the U.S. election results
were being revealed by Blitzer and Hahn
on CNN. Never a fan of the present
administration, I felt an ethereal sense of
one with like-minded patriots, not unlike
the collective spine-chill sensation that
envelops the audience at an Eagles concert
as they magically strum that haunting
opening riff to Hotel California. The everelusive, almost forgotten idealism returns –
if only briefly.
Ironically, the recent Mexico election
and Oaxaca protests have had a more direct
effect on my business life. My partners and
I were about two weeks away from starting
ad sales for our new magazine, now called
Mexico Premiere, when we started getting
word from Mexico contacts that launching
now would not be wise, perhaps suicidal.
The people who write checks are holding
back, at least until the new president takes
office and the Oaxaca situation has been
adequately resolved. And even after
Calderon is installed as the new leader,
there is a concern as to how he will govern.
Will he address the devastating poverty
that pervades most of the country, or will it
be business as usual? My guess is the he
will do both, trying to balance the pressing
needs of the country while continuing to
stimulate the economic engine. Or maybe,
more realistically, that is my hope.
In the interim, I will have a new web site
up soon, www.movetomexico.com. This is
my Mexico consulting and real estate
acquisition business, primarily targeting
the large boomer population who are
discovering that they are facing a
retirement scenario far different than the
one that they had imagined. That home
near the sea or the lake has dissolved along
with their pensions and declining home
equity, and Mexico is looking like a damn
good option. It is estimated that over a
million Americans are now living south of
the border, a number sure to grow in the
coming years. Initial consultations are free,
so get in touch if you want to kick around
some ideas or ask questions. If I don’t
have all of the answers, I’ll know someone
who does.
2
the hotel which is next to the Tarahumara
boarding school. Mass is said daily at 5 p.m.,
so if you time it right, you can watch the
procession of bandana-clad Tarahumara girls
as they head to the church for their daily
devotions. The town plaza starts where the
church and hotel end. It’s usually pretty
quiet, unless you’re around on Independence
Day (September 15) or other holiday, when
the space explodes with music, dance and, of
course, the obligatory political holding-forth.
The mission at Cerocahui was founded in
1680 by the Spanish Jesuit priest Father Juan
Salvatierra and the church building was
started shortly thereafter. The modern-day
reconstruction, which replaced the adobe
exterior with stone and left the simple interior
intact, was completed in the 1950s. Our
groups stay across the street at the Hotel
Misión, a charming colonial-style hotel run
by Hoteles Balderrama. This is an ideal
location if you’ve only got a day or two to
spend. Often we are the only folks there and
have the run of the courtyard and the
vineyards out back. The newest rooms (2630) look out over the vines, offering a
comfortable, tranquil stay. Rooms around the
courtyard are charming, too, but those on the
Book Review
SWAN INN continued
CEROCAHUI continued
street side can be noisy, so opt for rooms 1225 for a quieter night. Wood-burning stoves
are the only source of heat, so if you’re averse
to cold, plan your visit between April and
November. A plunge-type pool was recently
installed on the property. At about 5000 feet
elevation, Cerocahui never gets really hot, but
a dip in the pool is not only possible, but
welcome on a sunny summer day.
Hotel manager Martín Gutierrez is homegrown, a Cerocahui native who started out as
bartender and now oversees operations for the
39-room hotel. At any given time he can be
found building fires in the wood stoves,
describing the process used to produce the
hotel’s privately labeled wines (which, says a
wine expert on one of our recent trips, are pretty
good, especially the white) and on rare occasion,
strumming his guitar for happy hour guests.
Immediately out the front door of the hotel
is the Tewecado Santa María de Guadalupe
boarding school, a scheduled stop on our SME
itinerary. Our first thought, we must confess,
followed the lines of Not much to do here, eh?
What we found there, however, would enchant
us and eventually change our lives (see related
story). Founded in the 1940s, the school is
home to 75 Tarahumara girls, ages 4-14, and
serves as the elementary school for 185 more
day students. The facilities are an education in
themselves, as the realization dawns that the
entire operation is run by four nuns. As they
lined up in their pleated skirts and tire-soled
huaraches and sang to us in their native
Rarámuri, the boarding school charges
completely captivated our passengers and,
need we say, us?
The area outside the town of Cerocahui has
much to offer and merits a more extended
stay, especially for the adventure-prone.
Gallego Outlook is about two hours away and
affords the breath-taking vista of Urique
Canyon often seen on Copper Canyon posters.
The ride up to the 7000-foot panorama
provides convenient vantage points for photos,
including a picture-perfect view of Cerocahui.
Our bus driver, Jaime, honks as we pass a
modest Tarahumara farm house, and Gabriela
and her two boys come charging after us to
open the former cave-home-turned-store to
enable our passengers to engage in some
serious basket buying. The pine and bear grass
creations are the most typical of the
Tarahumara crafts and Gabriela’s selection,
made primarily by her, is varied and
reasonably priced. The view at the top is
worth the ride, and if you have a hankering for
Continued on page 3
a picnic, tables are
Cave Store (top photo) and Tarahumara
Girls at the School (bottom photo)
room, bedroom and bath.
Swan Inn is not particularly Mexicanlooking – the wall colors are more English in
conception and design, cool pale greens and
muted colors designed to be peaceful – but
the atmosphere of the place in general is
slowly becoming more Mexican in actuality.
The office door is right on the street and
passersby wave and greet both Izzy and Jean
as they walk by. Jeanne’s quarters – capable
of being closed off from the Inn, but I never
saw them separated – have Mexican tile and
furniture, and she is using a set of dishes
designed and made in Tonala especially for
the Inn, with the trademark swan in the center
of each piece, to serve her guests. The pool is
quintessentially Mexican – with tin light
fixtures, clay sculptures and Talavera tile
edging it – and the property is strewn with
Mexican pottery, folk art and plant life.
While this beautiful building itself and its
breathtaking grounds create a haven from the
crowded streets of Ajijic, I believe Swan
Inn’s magic is created by Jeanne and Izzy.
They are polar opposites in their approach to
serving their guests – Jeanne always
dizzyingly cheerful and entertaining,
primarily concerned with the emotional and
minute creature comforts she can provide,
and Izzy – while always friendly and helpful
with a biting sense of humor – mostly
involved with keeping things running
smoothly and efficiently. Together they have
more than sustained Don Niederlitz’s vision
of a hospitable, cozy respite from whatever
chaos a guest may find outside the Inn’s
unique wrought-iron doors. Located at 16 de
Septiembre No. 18 in Ajijic Village,
reservations can be made by calling 011-52376-766-2354 from outside Mexico, or
logging onto the Inn’s website at
www.swaninnajijic.com. The email address
is [email protected] and will bring
you directly to Izzy, who is meticulous about
responding to all inquiries on the same day
Continued on page 8
they are received.
Tequila, Lemon, and Salt
by Daniel Reveles
Sunbelt Publications, 2005
185 pgs, paperback, $14.95
ISBN 0-932653-65-0
www.sunbeltpub.com
One of several intimate
courtyards found throughout the
grounds of Swan Inn insures
privacy and peaceful interludes
to those wishing to take
advantage of them. This is one
of the inner patios.
The pool at Swan Inn is
surrounded by patio, flowering
plants, a magnificent African
Tulip tree, beach furniture,
and the entrances to the Inn's
two Casitas. The water is
heated to a comfortable
temperature and the entire
area is perhaps one of the
most serene spots in Ajijic.
THE MEXICO FILE
Published ten times a year by Simmonds Publications
5580 La Jolla Blvd., #306 La Jolla, CA 92037
Voice mail: 800-563-9345 Phone/Fax: (858) 456-4419
E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.mexicofile.com
Subscription rate is $39.00 per year in the U.S., $49.00 per year outside the U.S.
PDF version available, see subscription box for details
Promotional rates are sometimes available. ©2006 Simmonds Publications
The Mexico File contents are intended for the independent traveler. The information given is believed to
be reliable, but cannot be guaranteed for accuracy due to constant changes that occur in a country this size.
Unsolicited stories, photos and letters are welcomed and encouraged. Postage should be included for any items
to be returned. This publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the editor
and the author of the article.
Editor: David Simmonds
Publisher: Robert Simmonds, Ph.D.
Contributing Editors: Lynne Doyle, Jane Onstott Design/Layout: Paul Hartsuyker www.hartworks.net
Reviewed by
Robert B. Simmonds
Tecate, right on the border with the U.S., is
located 34 miles east of Tijuana. The U.S., in
fact, lies in the hills that dominate the northern
edge of the town, but it in no way dominates
the persona of the town itself. Tecate is a
bordertown which, as much as it can, retains
the character of a sleepy, seldom visited, but
magical Mexican town. Its claim to fame is
the Tecate Brewery, as well as a couple of
deluxe spa resorts in the desert east of the
town, most notably Rancho La Puerta. And it
has a much quicker border crossing than the
San Ysidro and Otay Mesa crossings to the
west – but then there’s that 34 miles and back.
Tecate’s other attraction is Daniel Reveles,
who lives in the company of coyotes on a
remote ranch on the outskirts of town.
Reveles has written two other collections of
essays on the colorful characters of Tecate.
Enchiladas, Rice, and Beans was published
in 1994, and Salsa and Chips came out in
1996. Reveles was born in Los Angeles of
Mexican-born parents. He went on to a career
in entertainment – as a disc jockey, recording
artist, songwriter, and television producer.
And now he entertains us with tales from the
town of Tecate, where he has lived for the past
twenty-five years.
The nine stories in Reveles’ latest
collection generate a feel for the timeless
character of Mexican life in the small town.
Reality interweaves with magic. Prayer has its
place alongside witchcraft. The forces of
nature, of inevitability, of human inclinations
are all at work in this delightful little book.
Life and death intermingle. Now, that’s
Mexico.
Nothing worthy of note happens in Tecate.
That may be why we don’t have a daily
newspaper. I do remember what could have
been a major news story, though. A couple of
years ago Chanito’s goats got loose in the
plaza and did some pretty extensive trimming
and pruning in the rose gardens in the plaza.
That was kind of exciting. Big Nalgas
Machado arrested the old man, fined him
three hundred pesos and one goat. Machado
barbecued the goat on his rancho and it was
pretty good.
7
Swan Inn – Ajijic, Jalisco
by Lynne Doyle
Lynne Doyle is a longtime Mexico File
subscriber and contributing editor from Maine.
The object of the Las Joyas de Mexico feature is
to highlight for MF readers some of the lesserknown but most rewarding of Mexico’s
geographic, human and artistic treasures.
Lynne can be contacted at [email protected].
Recently, for reasons that escape me now,
my husband and I found ourselves
vacationing in the little town of Ajijic, on the
shores of Lake Chapala, about 40 minutes
from downtown Guadalajara. The most
significant thing one can say about Ajijic is
that it is definitely an acquired taste,
particularly for Mexicophiles – it houses
perhaps the largest ex-patriot community of
Americans in the country, rivaled only by
San Miguel de Allende. But San Miguel is a
World Heritage site, with a lot of Colonial
architecture and a LOT of shops selling some
of Mexico’s most impressive folk art, as well
as world-class restaurants and hotels. Ajijic,
the natives will tell you, was once a guava
orchard where the natives grew silkworms,
and that’s about it. Some of the old, original
trees remain here and there in the yards of
Ajijic’s on-top-of-each-other homes, but the
rest of the village is a nest of small,
redundant galleries, interesting and funky
little houses, narrow cobble-stone streets
clearly meant more for donkeys and horses
than for the SUV’s with American plates that
crowd them now, with a mediocre restaurant
here and there and a wide quality variation of
hotels and B & B’s. What I found most in
Ajijic was American arrogance and standoffishness, which is what sets the Swan Inn
so astoundingly apart from the rest of the
town.
Owned and operated by former
Manhattanite Jeanne Niederlitz, the inn was
built by Jeanne and her husband, the late
graphic and scenic artist Don Niederlitz.
Upon retirement, Jeanne and Don left New
York and came to Ajijic for the
incomparable climate. They found
themselves a house in the center village,
remodeled it, and added a pool, gorgeously
flanked by a large African Tulip tree (the one
with the amazing huge orange flowers). One
day, as Jeanne tells the story, after a big
storm off the lake, they noticed that one of
their guava trees had fallen and crushed a
section of the wall between their house and
the property next door. Viewing the
destruction, which gave them a clear shot of
the other lot, Don immediately envisioned a
Japanese garden and an expanded building,
and the idea of Swan Inn was born. It took
them three years to achieve their vision, at
which point Don was stricken with cancer
and passed away.
Today, Jeanne soldiers on with Don’s
dream of an English-style B & B, with the
excellent assistance of Innkeeper Francisco
Barcenas, a Miami native who came to Ajijic
five years ago to “get some rest.” Known to
all as Izzy, this personable young man is now
married to a gorgeous Mexican girl and is the
father of a brand-new infant son. For all
intents and purposes, he runs Swan Inn,
combining business-like precision and
technology with a big smile, fluent Spanish,
and a willingness to do whatever he has to in
order to satisfy his guests. Jeanne and Izzy
are an unbeatable combination – Jeanne is
Earth Mother and the soul of Swan Inn,
The entrance to Swan Inn is not
hard to find – the sign hangs out
over Calle 16 de Septiembre and
the Inn's symbol stands high
over the street.
This mural was painted in the
living room of the Inn by Don
Niederlitz to resemble the
contractor who helped to build
the Inn. Recently featured in
the new coffee table book, Ajijic
– Behind The Walls by Alison
Pickering, this unique rendition
of a giant Olmec head reflects
the often tongue-in-cheek
aspect of Niederlitz’s work.
6
spinning tales of her extraordinary life and
travels, opening both her home and the inn to
anyone needing shelter (even to the point of
sometimes renting out her own bedroom),
and frequently cooking herself the often
amazing breakfasts served cafeteria-style on
her patio, or in the guest lounge if weather is
not cooperating. Izzy is the brains behind the
operation, coordinating marketing, services,
maintenance and improvements, supervision
of the Inn’s employees and a million other
little tasks necessary to keep things running
smoothly. Jeanne and Don designed the
rooms in the inn, each of which has a different
theme and totally different décor – for
example, the Cactus Room has the colors of
the African tundra and houses many of Don’s
extraordinary paintings of their travels in
Africa. Other themes include The Oriental
Room, The Formal Room, The Imperial
Room, to name just a few. Jeanne also keeps
track of the Inn’s gardens – the very
impressive rooftop cactus garden and the
peaceful, shaded miniature Japanese garden
adjacent to the pool, at the rear of the property
on the ground level.
Swan Inn offers the only heated pool in
Ajijic, although Jeanne will tell you how
expensive the propane is to maintain the
temperature she finds comfortable. In
addition to the rooms of the Inn – each of
which has a private bath, state-of-the-art
satellite television, and electric blankets for
the cool nights of Ajijic winter – there is a
purified water system throughout the Inn, a
common kitchen for the use of guests, as well
as a laundry room and several secluded,
peaceful little patios – some for large groups,
but some also for those guests wishing a little
privacy. There are also two casitas – a small
one and a larger casita for longer-term guests,
each of which contains its own fullyequipped kitchen, living Continued on page 7
CEROCAHUI continued
available – just don’t load up on sodas, as
“restroom facilities” are primitive (assuming
they’re still standing at publication time). If
birding or horseback riding are more your
style, the Paraíso del Oso Hotel offers
comfortable accommodations and fully
escorted “eco tours” to some of the region’s
more remote areas. American Doug “Diego”
Rhodes and his wife Ana María, a Cerocahui
native, own the hotel which sits a few
kilometers outside of town right below jawdropping rock spires – one in the shape of
Yogi Bear that gives the property its name
(“Bear Paradise”). The gracious lobby and
bar area exudes Mexican hospitality and
surprisingly, offers wireless internet access
in an area where phones are rare, and
electricity, a 21st century arrival. Doug
shuttles his guests around, to and from the
train station in Bahuichivo (as do the folks at
Hotel Misión) and into town for touring, so
the fact that you can neither reasonably
drive to the area nor rent a car within 300
kilometers shouldn’t enter into your
decision-making.
A popular hike from town takes you over
the river and up through the woods to La
Cascada, a beautiful waterfall that, as its
name suggests, cascades into a lovely
mountain pool at its base. The hour-plus
jaunt is not for sissies and is best done with
a guide. We spent about three hours roundtrip, including breaks so our Tarahumara
escorts could use our pocket camera to snap
over 200 digital photos during the trek. The
girls were sent along by the Sisters at the
school to, no doubt, save us from ourselves.
Budget-minded travelers can find lowcost options to enjoy Cerocahui’s charms.
About half the price of the first class Chepe,
the second class train arrives an hour or so
later and local “taxis” are usually waiting at
the Bahuichivo station. A nodding
acquaintance with Spanish would be helpful,
although looking American and bewildered
usually summons help. In town, Lucy
Chaparro, a local high school teacher, runs a
small inn about two blocks from the plaza.
All of the rooms have two beds and a bath.
Two are heated, which for most of us would
be a necessity in winter and early spring.
The rooms are basic, but clean, and there is
plenty of hot water.
Cerocahui is prettiest, and greenest, in the
fall following the monsoon rains that drench
its hills and fill its river and waterfall. But
with four mild seasons and guaranteed warm
hospitality, anytime is a good time to pay a
visit. Hmmm. Maybe “Shangri-La” isn’t so
far off after all.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Misión US$116/single, US$215 double, includes three meals daily and roundtrip
transfer from Bahuichivo train station. Toll-free phone (800) 896-8196 or
www.mexicoscoppercanyon.com
Paraíso del Oso US$110/single, US$165/double – including three meals daily and round
trip transfer from Bahuichivo train station. E-mail [email protected].
A small inn is about two blocks from the plaza in Cerocahui. Rates are US$15 to US$20
per night (no meals). You’ll need Spanish to contact the inn at 011-52-635-456-5263.
(Other rooms are available in the town, but we have no first-hand knowledge of them.)
GETTING THERE
Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad (CHEPE) www.chepe.com.mx
From the North CHEPE departs Chihuahua every morning (6:00 am for First Class and
7:00 am for Second Class). Departure times are pretty accurate; arrival times vary. Disembark at
Bahuichivo (afternoon arrival).
From the South CHEPE departs Los Mochis every morning at 6:00 am for First Class and
7:00 am for Second Class. Again, arrival times vary. Disembark at Bahuichivo (afternoon arrival).
Cerocahui is included in most Sierra Madre Express itineraries. Contact the company at
(800)666-0346, www.sierramadreexpress.com.
NOTE: Driving to Cerocahui is possible, but NOT RECOMMENDED! Roads definitely require
four-wheel drive and a good knowledge of the area (a reliable guide is strongly recommended).
Regular air service from the U.S. is available to both Chihuahua City and Los Mochis.
3
From the City to the Beach – Six Hotels
MBH hotels include former palaces, ritzy
haciendas, golf hotels, spa resorts, and beach
casitas. Here’s a look at six hotels, with
current rates:
Hacienda San Angel (Puerto Vallarta)
Janice Chatterton, a San Francisco ex-pat,
has done a masterful restoration of three
classic mansions set in “Gringo Gulch,” the
neighborhood where Liz Taylor and Richard
Burton once lived. Within walking distance
to downtown, the nine-room hotel is
sophisticated and tranquil, exceptional
because of the display of wonderful
Mexican antiques gathered by Chatterton on
forays around the country.
Special activities: Puerto Vallarta, popularly
thought of as a beach-party town, contains an
unpublicized treasure – one of Mexico’s top
contemporary arts scene. A booming
economy has spawned high-end art galleries,
a remarkable outdoor-sculpture collection,
and thriving artists’ colony. $215-$395.
Hacienda Xcanatún (Mérida) Thanks to
a five-year restoration, this hotel has been
transformed from a mid-18th century
hacienda into one of the Yucatán’s most
sumptuous properties. Soft Mediterranean
colors, local marble, and hammock-lined
verandas spaced among nine acres of
tropical gardens provide splendor in the
jungle. The spa features holistic Mayan
treatments.
Special activities: Mérida, the Yucatán’s
booming capital, is rich in museums and
cultural attractions. The hotel also is an ideal
base for exploring the region’s Mayan ruins,
such as Chichén Itzá and Uxmal. $255-$310.
Hotel Básico (Playa del Carmen)
Opened last year, Básico is winning
accolades from major travel magazines as
the coolest, hip hotel on the Riviera Maya.
Set one block off the beach on Quinta
Avenida, Playa del Carmen’s trendy walking
street, the 15-room hotel has a minimalist,
industrial-chic look and whimsical
personality – white concrete walls feature
flat-screen TVs and odd adornments. The
rooftop lounge, offering a bar, movies, and
day beds, is a delight.
Special activities: Set smack in the middle
of bustling Playa del Carmen, the hotel is a
step away from top restaurants and city
beaches. Daytrippers snorkel in the
Caribbean, dive the region’s cenotes (natural
pools), and tour Mayan ruins. $148-$208.
La Casona (Mexico City) An oasis
hiding in the middle of Mexico City, the
restoration of this 29-room, stately mansion
with pink facades and wrought-iron
balconies has been recognized by the
National Institute of Fine Arts. Yet it
manages the neat trick of integrating a
business center and warm atmosphere into
historic surroundings.
Special activities: The hotel is located in
the Roma neighborhood, which borders the
boisterous Zona Rosa district and hip Condesa
neighborhood, streaming with sidewalk
restaurants. Swanky Polanco, the city’s
upscale shopping area, is nearby. $135-$180.
4
Casa del Mar (Los Cabos) Graceful
arches and hacienda architecture announce
this luxurious, 56-room retreat facing the
Sea of Cortés north of Cabo San Lucas. The
resort bustles with four tennis courts and lots
of activity, but guests can relax at a large
infinity pool and well-regarded spa.
Spacious, ocean-view rooms sparkle with
stylish Mexican décor. $305-$355.
Special activities: Guests have access to
nearby Cabo Real Golf Course, a
championship, 18-hole course rated among
Mexico’s best. Staff arranges sport fishing
excursions and recreational desert activities.
Casa Las Brisas (north of Puerto
Vallarta) This seven-room, villa-style hotel
hidden on a secluded beach is one of MBH’s
most-requested hotels. The private ocean
setting along the edge of Banderas Bay and
the hotel’s personalized service appeal to
romantic couples who want an elegant
retreat. A small pool, spa, and excellent
cuisine add “your-own-tropical-island”
ambience. $355-$465.
Special activities: Banderas Bay offers
whale watching (winter season), excellent
sport fishing, and the Marietas Islands, a
national bird reserve.
Hacienda San Angel in Puerto Vallarta
Tewecado Mission School: Opening Eyes – and Hearts
Florecita was mesmerized, but not by the
story I was reading. As I turned the pages and
regaled the nine kindergartners with Adam
the Ant, pint-sized Flor stood next to my
shoulder and stared at my head. For some
reason, the Tarahumara girls at the Tewecado
Mission School were fixated on my short –
and in their opinion, unkempt – hair.
Flor couldn’t stand it any longer. ¿Tienes
piojos? she blurted out.
It all fell into place. The only earthly
reason a Tarahumara girl would have had her
hair cut is head lice. I had short hair, ergo …
A visit to the school is always an eye-
SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL continued
opener, though not necessarily in the way we
might expect.
Founded in the 1940s, the school is run by
a Mexican order of nuns who have made it
their mission to feed, clothe and educate
children of the Tarahumara Indians who
populate Mexico’s Copper Canyon region.
When we first visited the school, we were
charmed by the children, impressed with the
facilities, but were left wondering how the
Sisters managed it all.
The Tewecado, or “girls’ school” in the
Rarámuri language, is home to about 75 girls
from 24 ranchitos located, in many cases,
Quinta Real in Zacatecas
industry he needed to establish a
qualification system. All MBH hotels must
meet a certain set of criteria and are
inspected regularly. “You can’t buy your
way in,” says Youden.
Starting with a dozen hotels in 2000,
MBH steadily grew and now has more than
tripled in size. It added 13 new members this
year and has hotels in practically every state
in Mexico.
MBH hotels have several things in
common, starting with a small-is-beautiful
philosophy. Most have fewer than 50 rooms,
which helps assure intimacy and a high level
of service, says Youden. Many flaunt idyllic
surroundings – dreamy Pacific Ocean coves,
the turquoise-colored Caribbean, Mexico’s
colonial heartland. And the majority are
deluxe – a handful belong to the Small
Luxury Hotels of the World group – though
few have the refinement and polish found at
a St. Regis or Fairmont, says Youden.
“We’re best exemplified by the small
hotelier who makes his presence felt by his
special care or feeling,” he says. “It might be
in the food or the décor or the service. I got
a nice note from a traveler about one of our
Oaxaca hotels. She had mentioned to the
owner that she wanted to buy some special
candles to bring back to the U.S. The next
day, she found those candles sitting in her
room.”
TEWECADO MISSION SCHOOL continued
several days’ walking distance away. They
board at the school at no cost to the families
other than the occasional gift of squash or a
handmade basket. Many come to the school
suffering from malnutrition, dehydration,
parasites or intestinal disorders.
School administrator Sister Catalina
Orpineda tells how a new student, perhaps
aged five or six, cried inconsolably upon her
arrival. The older girls gathered around and
assured her everything would be okay.
“You’ll really like living here,” they said,
“because you get to eat every day!”
And, she adds, the
Continued on page 5
school receives no support from the local
diocese nor from their community, the Sisters
of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and the Poor. In
lockstep, we – and our passengers – open our
pockets. But, in typical American fashion, we
can’t help but wonder – isn’t there a better
way?
That question led us and several former
Sierra Madre Express employees, Tom
Giannini and Bill Pickeral, to found The
Tewecado Trust, a non-profit tax-exempt
corporation located in Tucson, AZ. The Trust
works in partnership with the Sisters,
providing funding, mentoring and technical
expertise to support both the boarding
Villa del Sol in Zihuatanejo
MBH hotels vary widely in style, mood,
and concept. They include former haciendas,
urban oases, pristine beach hideaways, and
one – Quinta Real in Zacatecas – located in
a former bullring.
The largest member of MBH is 70-room
Villa del Sol, a venerable beachfront
property in Zihuatanejo often ranked among
Mexico’s most lovely hotels. The group’s
smallest hotel is Casa Cid de León, a
meticulously decorated, four-room house in
Oaxaca’s historic center. Generally, MBH
has single-owner hotels, but a few hotels are
drawn from two premium-hotel chains,
Quinta Real and Starwood.
“What they have in common is they
reflect the passion of their owners,” says
Youden. “These hotels have some kind of
distinctive stamp or personality. They reflect
the flavor of a region.”
When MBH started in 2000, Youden
envisioned the association could serve as a
kind of Good Housekeeping Seal of
Approval for small hotels. Its role has
expanded to include a web site with a
reservations system that allows consumers
to book hotels directly without paying a fee.
The web site also offers a toll-free phone
number for free consultations, which is
especially helpful for information about
lesser-known destinations. MBH’s staff also
helps put together “circuit tours” for guests
students and the elementary school. Since its
inception in 2002, the organization has raised
funds to install a new water system, create a
school library with over 1500 books, provide
scholarships for the lay teachers to become
certified, as well as regular donations of cash
for the purchase of food, medical supplies,
clothing and other operational expenses.
For those who have fallen under their spell,
the Trust provides a way to stay in touch and
make a tangible difference in the lives of the
girls who call the Tewecado home.
For more information, www.tewecado.org
or The Tewecado Trust, P.O. Box 36078,
Tucson, AZ 85740.
Casa Cid de León in Oaxaca
– self-guided itineraries combining hotel
stays in different cities. One popular idea is
to split a visit between an Old World city –
Oaxaca, Morelia, Mérida – and a nearby
beach town.
While MBH hotels generally are
expensive, a small number offer rooms
below $150 per night. Most of them are
“pocket-friendly” during Mexico’s offseason – May through early December – and
offer discounted rates.
“We appeal to travelers who want to
experience Mexico rather than just come
down to get a tan and drink margaritas,”
says Youden. “Mexico is such a rich, vibrant
country but travelers stuck in big hotels
sometimes never see it.”
For more information, go to
www.mexicoboutiquehotels.com;
1-800-728-9098.
•Cerocahui
•Cabo San Lucas
Ajijic•
Mexico City
•Oaxaca
Subscribe to
The Mexico File.
Name
Address
Telephone
Printed Version Cost:
$39.00 per year (10 issues)
$65.00 for two years (20 issues)
(Add $10.00 to price if outside the U.S.)
PDF Version Cost:
$18.00 per year (10 issues)
$34.00 for two years (20 issues)
Send check or money order to:
Simmonds Publications
5580 La Jolla Blvd, Suite #306
La Jolla, CA 92037
Phone
1-800-5MEXFILE
5
From the City to the Beach – Six Hotels
MBH hotels include former palaces, ritzy
haciendas, golf hotels, spa resorts, and beach
casitas. Here’s a look at six hotels, with
current rates:
Hacienda San Angel (Puerto Vallarta)
Janice Chatterton, a San Francisco ex-pat,
has done a masterful restoration of three
classic mansions set in “Gringo Gulch,” the
neighborhood where Liz Taylor and Richard
Burton once lived. Within walking distance
to downtown, the nine-room hotel is
sophisticated and tranquil, exceptional
because of the display of wonderful
Mexican antiques gathered by Chatterton on
forays around the country.
Special activities: Puerto Vallarta, popularly
thought of as a beach-party town, contains an
unpublicized treasure – one of Mexico’s top
contemporary arts scene. A booming
economy has spawned high-end art galleries,
a remarkable outdoor-sculpture collection,
and thriving artists’ colony. $215-$395.
Hacienda Xcanatún (Mérida) Thanks to
a five-year restoration, this hotel has been
transformed from a mid-18th century
hacienda into one of the Yucatán’s most
sumptuous properties. Soft Mediterranean
colors, local marble, and hammock-lined
verandas spaced among nine acres of
tropical gardens provide splendor in the
jungle. The spa features holistic Mayan
treatments.
Special activities: Mérida, the Yucatán’s
booming capital, is rich in museums and
cultural attractions. The hotel also is an ideal
base for exploring the region’s Mayan ruins,
such as Chichén Itzá and Uxmal. $255-$310.
Hotel Básico (Playa del Carmen)
Opened last year, Básico is winning
accolades from major travel magazines as
the coolest, hip hotel on the Riviera Maya.
Set one block off the beach on Quinta
Avenida, Playa del Carmen’s trendy walking
street, the 15-room hotel has a minimalist,
industrial-chic look and whimsical
personality – white concrete walls feature
flat-screen TVs and odd adornments. The
rooftop lounge, offering a bar, movies, and
day beds, is a delight.
Special activities: Set smack in the middle
of bustling Playa del Carmen, the hotel is a
step away from top restaurants and city
beaches. Daytrippers snorkel in the
Caribbean, dive the region’s cenotes (natural
pools), and tour Mayan ruins. $148-$208.
La Casona (Mexico City) An oasis
hiding in the middle of Mexico City, the
restoration of this 29-room, stately mansion
with pink facades and wrought-iron
balconies has been recognized by the
National Institute of Fine Arts. Yet it
manages the neat trick of integrating a
business center and warm atmosphere into
historic surroundings.
Special activities: The hotel is located in
the Roma neighborhood, which borders the
boisterous Zona Rosa district and hip Condesa
neighborhood, streaming with sidewalk
restaurants. Swanky Polanco, the city’s
upscale shopping area, is nearby. $135-$180.
4
Casa del Mar (Los Cabos) Graceful
arches and hacienda architecture announce
this luxurious, 56-room retreat facing the
Sea of Cortés north of Cabo San Lucas. The
resort bustles with four tennis courts and lots
of activity, but guests can relax at a large
infinity pool and well-regarded spa.
Spacious, ocean-view rooms sparkle with
stylish Mexican décor. $305-$355.
Special activities: Guests have access to
nearby Cabo Real Golf Course, a
championship, 18-hole course rated among
Mexico’s best. Staff arranges sport fishing
excursions and recreational desert activities.
Casa Las Brisas (north of Puerto
Vallarta) This seven-room, villa-style hotel
hidden on a secluded beach is one of MBH’s
most-requested hotels. The private ocean
setting along the edge of Banderas Bay and
the hotel’s personalized service appeal to
romantic couples who want an elegant
retreat. A small pool, spa, and excellent
cuisine add “your-own-tropical-island”
ambience. $355-$465.
Special activities: Banderas Bay offers
whale watching (winter season), excellent
sport fishing, and the Marietas Islands, a
national bird reserve.
Hacienda San Angel in Puerto Vallarta
Tewecado Mission School: Opening Eyes – and Hearts
Florecita was mesmerized, but not by the
story I was reading. As I turned the pages and
regaled the nine kindergartners with Adam
the Ant, pint-sized Flor stood next to my
shoulder and stared at my head. For some
reason, the Tarahumara girls at the Tewecado
Mission School were fixated on my short –
and in their opinion, unkempt – hair.
Flor couldn’t stand it any longer. ¿Tienes
piojos? she blurted out.
It all fell into place. The only earthly
reason a Tarahumara girl would have had her
hair cut is head lice. I had short hair, ergo …
A visit to the school is always an eye-
SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL continued
opener, though not necessarily in the way we
might expect.
Founded in the 1940s, the school is run by
a Mexican order of nuns who have made it
their mission to feed, clothe and educate
children of the Tarahumara Indians who
populate Mexico’s Copper Canyon region.
When we first visited the school, we were
charmed by the children, impressed with the
facilities, but were left wondering how the
Sisters managed it all.
The Tewecado, or “girls’ school” in the
Rarámuri language, is home to about 75 girls
from 24 ranchitos located, in many cases,
Quinta Real in Zacatecas
industry he needed to establish a
qualification system. All MBH hotels must
meet a certain set of criteria and are
inspected regularly. “You can’t buy your
way in,” says Youden.
Starting with a dozen hotels in 2000,
MBH steadily grew and now has more than
tripled in size. It added 13 new members this
year and has hotels in practically every state
in Mexico.
MBH hotels have several things in
common, starting with a small-is-beautiful
philosophy. Most have fewer than 50 rooms,
which helps assure intimacy and a high level
of service, says Youden. Many flaunt idyllic
surroundings – dreamy Pacific Ocean coves,
the turquoise-colored Caribbean, Mexico’s
colonial heartland. And the majority are
deluxe – a handful belong to the Small
Luxury Hotels of the World group – though
few have the refinement and polish found at
a St. Regis or Fairmont, says Youden.
“We’re best exemplified by the small
hotelier who makes his presence felt by his
special care or feeling,” he says. “It might be
in the food or the décor or the service. I got
a nice note from a traveler about one of our
Oaxaca hotels. She had mentioned to the
owner that she wanted to buy some special
candles to bring back to the U.S. The next
day, she found those candles sitting in her
room.”
TEWECADO MISSION SCHOOL continued
several days’ walking distance away. They
board at the school at no cost to the families
other than the occasional gift of squash or a
handmade basket. Many come to the school
suffering from malnutrition, dehydration,
parasites or intestinal disorders.
School administrator Sister Catalina
Orpineda tells how a new student, perhaps
aged five or six, cried inconsolably upon her
arrival. The older girls gathered around and
assured her everything would be okay.
“You’ll really like living here,” they said,
“because you get to eat every day!”
And, she adds, the
Continued on page 5
school receives no support from the local
diocese nor from their community, the Sisters
of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and the Poor. In
lockstep, we – and our passengers – open our
pockets. But, in typical American fashion, we
can’t help but wonder – isn’t there a better
way?
That question led us and several former
Sierra Madre Express employees, Tom
Giannini and Bill Pickeral, to found The
Tewecado Trust, a non-profit tax-exempt
corporation located in Tucson, AZ. The Trust
works in partnership with the Sisters,
providing funding, mentoring and technical
expertise to support both the boarding
Villa del Sol in Zihuatanejo
MBH hotels vary widely in style, mood,
and concept. They include former haciendas,
urban oases, pristine beach hideaways, and
one – Quinta Real in Zacatecas – located in
a former bullring.
The largest member of MBH is 70-room
Villa del Sol, a venerable beachfront
property in Zihuatanejo often ranked among
Mexico’s most lovely hotels. The group’s
smallest hotel is Casa Cid de León, a
meticulously decorated, four-room house in
Oaxaca’s historic center. Generally, MBH
has single-owner hotels, but a few hotels are
drawn from two premium-hotel chains,
Quinta Real and Starwood.
“What they have in common is they
reflect the passion of their owners,” says
Youden. “These hotels have some kind of
distinctive stamp or personality. They reflect
the flavor of a region.”
When MBH started in 2000, Youden
envisioned the association could serve as a
kind of Good Housekeeping Seal of
Approval for small hotels. Its role has
expanded to include a web site with a
reservations system that allows consumers
to book hotels directly without paying a fee.
The web site also offers a toll-free phone
number for free consultations, which is
especially helpful for information about
lesser-known destinations. MBH’s staff also
helps put together “circuit tours” for guests
students and the elementary school. Since its
inception in 2002, the organization has raised
funds to install a new water system, create a
school library with over 1500 books, provide
scholarships for the lay teachers to become
certified, as well as regular donations of cash
for the purchase of food, medical supplies,
clothing and other operational expenses.
For those who have fallen under their spell,
the Trust provides a way to stay in touch and
make a tangible difference in the lives of the
girls who call the Tewecado home.
For more information, www.tewecado.org
or The Tewecado Trust, P.O. Box 36078,
Tucson, AZ 85740.
Casa Cid de León in Oaxaca
– self-guided itineraries combining hotel
stays in different cities. One popular idea is
to split a visit between an Old World city –
Oaxaca, Morelia, Mérida – and a nearby
beach town.
While MBH hotels generally are
expensive, a small number offer rooms
below $150 per night. Most of them are
“pocket-friendly” during Mexico’s offseason – May through early December – and
offer discounted rates.
“We appeal to travelers who want to
experience Mexico rather than just come
down to get a tan and drink margaritas,”
says Youden. “Mexico is such a rich, vibrant
country but travelers stuck in big hotels
sometimes never see it.”
For more information, go to
www.mexicoboutiquehotels.com;
1-800-728-9098.
•Cerocahui
•Cabo San Lucas
Ajijic•
Mexico City
•Oaxaca
Subscribe to
The Mexico File.
Name
Address
Telephone
Printed Version Cost:
$39.00 per year (10 issues)
$65.00 for two years (20 issues)
(Add $10.00 to price if outside the U.S.)
PDF Version Cost:
$18.00 per year (10 issues)
$34.00 for two years (20 issues)
Send check or money order to:
Simmonds Publications
5580 La Jolla Blvd, Suite #306
La Jolla, CA 92037
Phone
1-800-5MEXFILE
5
Swan Inn – Ajijic, Jalisco
by Lynne Doyle
Lynne Doyle is a longtime Mexico File
subscriber and contributing editor from Maine.
The object of the Las Joyas de Mexico feature is
to highlight for MF readers some of the lesserknown but most rewarding of Mexico’s
geographic, human and artistic treasures.
Lynne can be contacted at [email protected].
Recently, for reasons that escape me now,
my husband and I found ourselves
vacationing in the little town of Ajijic, on the
shores of Lake Chapala, about 40 minutes
from downtown Guadalajara. The most
significant thing one can say about Ajijic is
that it is definitely an acquired taste,
particularly for Mexicophiles – it houses
perhaps the largest ex-patriot community of
Americans in the country, rivaled only by
San Miguel de Allende. But San Miguel is a
World Heritage site, with a lot of Colonial
architecture and a LOT of shops selling some
of Mexico’s most impressive folk art, as well
as world-class restaurants and hotels. Ajijic,
the natives will tell you, was once a guava
orchard where the natives grew silkworms,
and that’s about it. Some of the old, original
trees remain here and there in the yards of
Ajijic’s on-top-of-each-other homes, but the
rest of the village is a nest of small,
redundant galleries, interesting and funky
little houses, narrow cobble-stone streets
clearly meant more for donkeys and horses
than for the SUV’s with American plates that
crowd them now, with a mediocre restaurant
here and there and a wide quality variation of
hotels and B & B’s. What I found most in
Ajijic was American arrogance and standoffishness, which is what sets the Swan Inn
so astoundingly apart from the rest of the
town.
Owned and operated by former
Manhattanite Jeanne Niederlitz, the inn was
built by Jeanne and her husband, the late
graphic and scenic artist Don Niederlitz.
Upon retirement, Jeanne and Don left New
York and came to Ajijic for the
incomparable climate. They found
themselves a house in the center village,
remodeled it, and added a pool, gorgeously
flanked by a large African Tulip tree (the one
with the amazing huge orange flowers). One
day, as Jeanne tells the story, after a big
storm off the lake, they noticed that one of
their guava trees had fallen and crushed a
section of the wall between their house and
the property next door. Viewing the
destruction, which gave them a clear shot of
the other lot, Don immediately envisioned a
Japanese garden and an expanded building,
and the idea of Swan Inn was born. It took
them three years to achieve their vision, at
which point Don was stricken with cancer
and passed away.
Today, Jeanne soldiers on with Don’s
dream of an English-style B & B, with the
excellent assistance of Innkeeper Francisco
Barcenas, a Miami native who came to Ajijic
five years ago to “get some rest.” Known to
all as Izzy, this personable young man is now
married to a gorgeous Mexican girl and is the
father of a brand-new infant son. For all
intents and purposes, he runs Swan Inn,
combining business-like precision and
technology with a big smile, fluent Spanish,
and a willingness to do whatever he has to in
order to satisfy his guests. Jeanne and Izzy
are an unbeatable combination – Jeanne is
Earth Mother and the soul of Swan Inn,
The entrance to Swan Inn is not
hard to find – the sign hangs out
over Calle 16 de Septiembre and
the Inn's symbol stands high
over the street.
This mural was painted in the
living room of the Inn by Don
Niederlitz to resemble the
contractor who helped to build
the Inn. Recently featured in
the new coffee table book, Ajijic
– Behind The Walls by Alison
Pickering, this unique rendition
of a giant Olmec head reflects
the often tongue-in-cheek
aspect of Niederlitz’s work.
6
spinning tales of her extraordinary life and
travels, opening both her home and the inn to
anyone needing shelter (even to the point of
sometimes renting out her own bedroom),
and frequently cooking herself the often
amazing breakfasts served cafeteria-style on
her patio, or in the guest lounge if weather is
not cooperating. Izzy is the brains behind the
operation, coordinating marketing, services,
maintenance and improvements, supervision
of the Inn’s employees and a million other
little tasks necessary to keep things running
smoothly. Jeanne and Don designed the
rooms in the inn, each of which has a different
theme and totally different décor – for
example, the Cactus Room has the colors of
the African tundra and houses many of Don’s
extraordinary paintings of their travels in
Africa. Other themes include The Oriental
Room, The Formal Room, The Imperial
Room, to name just a few. Jeanne also keeps
track of the Inn’s gardens – the very
impressive rooftop cactus garden and the
peaceful, shaded miniature Japanese garden
adjacent to the pool, at the rear of the property
on the ground level.
Swan Inn offers the only heated pool in
Ajijic, although Jeanne will tell you how
expensive the propane is to maintain the
temperature she finds comfortable. In
addition to the rooms of the Inn – each of
which has a private bath, state-of-the-art
satellite television, and electric blankets for
the cool nights of Ajijic winter – there is a
purified water system throughout the Inn, a
common kitchen for the use of guests, as well
as a laundry room and several secluded,
peaceful little patios – some for large groups,
but some also for those guests wishing a little
privacy. There are also two casitas – a small
one and a larger casita for longer-term guests,
each of which contains its own fullyequipped kitchen, living Continued on page 7
CEROCAHUI continued
available – just don’t load up on sodas, as
“restroom facilities” are primitive (assuming
they’re still standing at publication time). If
birding or horseback riding are more your
style, the Paraíso del Oso Hotel offers
comfortable accommodations and fully
escorted “eco tours” to some of the region’s
more remote areas. American Doug “Diego”
Rhodes and his wife Ana María, a Cerocahui
native, own the hotel which sits a few
kilometers outside of town right below jawdropping rock spires – one in the shape of
Yogi Bear that gives the property its name
(“Bear Paradise”). The gracious lobby and
bar area exudes Mexican hospitality and
surprisingly, offers wireless internet access
in an area where phones are rare, and
electricity, a 21st century arrival. Doug
shuttles his guests around, to and from the
train station in Bahuichivo (as do the folks at
Hotel Misión) and into town for touring, so
the fact that you can neither reasonably
drive to the area nor rent a car within 300
kilometers shouldn’t enter into your
decision-making.
A popular hike from town takes you over
the river and up through the woods to La
Cascada, a beautiful waterfall that, as its
name suggests, cascades into a lovely
mountain pool at its base. The hour-plus
jaunt is not for sissies and is best done with
a guide. We spent about three hours roundtrip, including breaks so our Tarahumara
escorts could use our pocket camera to snap
over 200 digital photos during the trek. The
girls were sent along by the Sisters at the
school to, no doubt, save us from ourselves.
Budget-minded travelers can find lowcost options to enjoy Cerocahui’s charms.
About half the price of the first class Chepe,
the second class train arrives an hour or so
later and local “taxis” are usually waiting at
the Bahuichivo station. A nodding
acquaintance with Spanish would be helpful,
although looking American and bewildered
usually summons help. In town, Lucy
Chaparro, a local high school teacher, runs a
small inn about two blocks from the plaza.
All of the rooms have two beds and a bath.
Two are heated, which for most of us would
be a necessity in winter and early spring.
The rooms are basic, but clean, and there is
plenty of hot water.
Cerocahui is prettiest, and greenest, in the
fall following the monsoon rains that drench
its hills and fill its river and waterfall. But
with four mild seasons and guaranteed warm
hospitality, anytime is a good time to pay a
visit. Hmmm. Maybe “Shangri-La” isn’t so
far off after all.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Misión US$116/single, US$215 double, includes three meals daily and roundtrip
transfer from Bahuichivo train station. Toll-free phone (800) 896-8196 or
www.mexicoscoppercanyon.com
Paraíso del Oso US$110/single, US$165/double – including three meals daily and round
trip transfer from Bahuichivo train station. E-mail [email protected].
A small inn is about two blocks from the plaza in Cerocahui. Rates are US$15 to US$20
per night (no meals). You’ll need Spanish to contact the inn at 011-52-635-456-5263.
(Other rooms are available in the town, but we have no first-hand knowledge of them.)
GETTING THERE
Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad (CHEPE) www.chepe.com.mx
From the North CHEPE departs Chihuahua every morning (6:00 am for First Class and
7:00 am for Second Class). Departure times are pretty accurate; arrival times vary. Disembark at
Bahuichivo (afternoon arrival).
From the South CHEPE departs Los Mochis every morning at 6:00 am for First Class and
7:00 am for Second Class. Again, arrival times vary. Disembark at Bahuichivo (afternoon arrival).
Cerocahui is included in most Sierra Madre Express itineraries. Contact the company at
(800)666-0346, www.sierramadreexpress.com.
NOTE: Driving to Cerocahui is possible, but NOT RECOMMENDED! Roads definitely require
four-wheel drive and a good knowledge of the area (a reliable guide is strongly recommended).
Regular air service from the U.S. is available to both Chihuahua City and Los Mochis.
3
here I was, beer in hand, straining
to see the 12” television in my
$38.00 room at La Posada de
Roger in Puerto Vallarta, celebrating with
another chug as the U.S. election results
were being revealed by Blitzer and Hahn
on CNN. Never a fan of the present
administration, I felt an ethereal sense of
one with like-minded patriots, not unlike
the collective spine-chill sensation that
envelops the audience at an Eagles concert
as they magically strum that haunting
opening riff to Hotel California. The everelusive, almost forgotten idealism returns –
if only briefly.
Ironically, the recent Mexico election
and Oaxaca protests have had a more direct
effect on my business life. My partners and
I were about two weeks away from starting
ad sales for our new magazine, now called
Mexico Premiere, when we started getting
word from Mexico contacts that launching
now would not be wise, perhaps suicidal.
The people who write checks are holding
back, at least until the new president takes
office and the Oaxaca situation has been
adequately resolved. And even after
Calderon is installed as the new leader,
there is a concern as to how he will govern.
Will he address the devastating poverty
that pervades most of the country, or will it
be business as usual? My guess is the he
will do both, trying to balance the pressing
needs of the country while continuing to
stimulate the economic engine. Or maybe,
more realistically, that is my hope.
In the interim, I will have a new web site
up soon, www.movetomexico.com. This is
my Mexico consulting and real estate
acquisition business, primarily targeting
the large boomer population who are
discovering that they are facing a
retirement scenario far different than the
one that they had imagined. That home
near the sea or the lake has dissolved along
with their pensions and declining home
equity, and Mexico is looking like a damn
good option. It is estimated that over a
million Americans are now living south of
the border, a number sure to grow in the
coming years. Initial consultations are free,
so get in touch if you want to kick around
some ideas or ask questions. If I don’t
have all of the answers, I’ll know someone
who does.
2
the hotel which is next to the Tarahumara
boarding school. Mass is said daily at 5 p.m.,
so if you time it right, you can watch the
procession of bandana-clad Tarahumara girls
as they head to the church for their daily
devotions. The town plaza starts where the
church and hotel end. It’s usually pretty
quiet, unless you’re around on Independence
Day (September 15) or other holiday, when
the space explodes with music, dance and, of
course, the obligatory political holding-forth.
The mission at Cerocahui was founded in
1680 by the Spanish Jesuit priest Father Juan
Salvatierra and the church building was
started shortly thereafter. The modern-day
reconstruction, which replaced the adobe
exterior with stone and left the simple interior
intact, was completed in the 1950s. Our
groups stay across the street at the Hotel
Misión, a charming colonial-style hotel run
by Hoteles Balderrama. This is an ideal
location if you’ve only got a day or two to
spend. Often we are the only folks there and
have the run of the courtyard and the
vineyards out back. The newest rooms (2630) look out over the vines, offering a
comfortable, tranquil stay. Rooms around the
courtyard are charming, too, but those on the
Book Review
SWAN INN continued
CEROCAHUI continued
street side can be noisy, so opt for rooms 1225 for a quieter night. Wood-burning stoves
are the only source of heat, so if you’re averse
to cold, plan your visit between April and
November. A plunge-type pool was recently
installed on the property. At about 5000 feet
elevation, Cerocahui never gets really hot, but
a dip in the pool is not only possible, but
welcome on a sunny summer day.
Hotel manager Martín Gutierrez is homegrown, a Cerocahui native who started out as
bartender and now oversees operations for the
39-room hotel. At any given time he can be
found building fires in the wood stoves,
describing the process used to produce the
hotel’s privately labeled wines (which, says a
wine expert on one of our recent trips, are pretty
good, especially the white) and on rare occasion,
strumming his guitar for happy hour guests.
Immediately out the front door of the hotel
is the Tewecado Santa María de Guadalupe
boarding school, a scheduled stop on our SME
itinerary. Our first thought, we must confess,
followed the lines of Not much to do here, eh?
What we found there, however, would enchant
us and eventually change our lives (see related
story). Founded in the 1940s, the school is
home to 75 Tarahumara girls, ages 4-14, and
serves as the elementary school for 185 more
day students. The facilities are an education in
themselves, as the realization dawns that the
entire operation is run by four nuns. As they
lined up in their pleated skirts and tire-soled
huaraches and sang to us in their native
Rarámuri, the boarding school charges
completely captivated our passengers and,
need we say, us?
The area outside the town of Cerocahui has
much to offer and merits a more extended
stay, especially for the adventure-prone.
Gallego Outlook is about two hours away and
affords the breath-taking vista of Urique
Canyon often seen on Copper Canyon posters.
The ride up to the 7000-foot panorama
provides convenient vantage points for photos,
including a picture-perfect view of Cerocahui.
Our bus driver, Jaime, honks as we pass a
modest Tarahumara farm house, and Gabriela
and her two boys come charging after us to
open the former cave-home-turned-store to
enable our passengers to engage in some
serious basket buying. The pine and bear grass
creations are the most typical of the
Tarahumara crafts and Gabriela’s selection,
made primarily by her, is varied and
reasonably priced. The view at the top is
worth the ride, and if you have a hankering for
Continued on page 3
a picnic, tables are
Cave Store (top photo) and Tarahumara
Girls at the School (bottom photo)
room, bedroom and bath.
Swan Inn is not particularly Mexicanlooking – the wall colors are more English in
conception and design, cool pale greens and
muted colors designed to be peaceful – but
the atmosphere of the place in general is
slowly becoming more Mexican in actuality.
The office door is right on the street and
passersby wave and greet both Izzy and Jean
as they walk by. Jeanne’s quarters – capable
of being closed off from the Inn, but I never
saw them separated – have Mexican tile and
furniture, and she is using a set of dishes
designed and made in Tonala especially for
the Inn, with the trademark swan in the center
of each piece, to serve her guests. The pool is
quintessentially Mexican – with tin light
fixtures, clay sculptures and Talavera tile
edging it – and the property is strewn with
Mexican pottery, folk art and plant life.
While this beautiful building itself and its
breathtaking grounds create a haven from the
crowded streets of Ajijic, I believe Swan
Inn’s magic is created by Jeanne and Izzy.
They are polar opposites in their approach to
serving their guests – Jeanne always
dizzyingly cheerful and entertaining,
primarily concerned with the emotional and
minute creature comforts she can provide,
and Izzy – while always friendly and helpful
with a biting sense of humor – mostly
involved with keeping things running
smoothly and efficiently. Together they have
more than sustained Don Niederlitz’s vision
of a hospitable, cozy respite from whatever
chaos a guest may find outside the Inn’s
unique wrought-iron doors. Located at 16 de
Septiembre No. 18 in Ajijic Village,
reservations can be made by calling 011-52376-766-2354 from outside Mexico, or
logging onto the Inn’s website at
www.swaninnajijic.com. The email address
is [email protected] and will bring
you directly to Izzy, who is meticulous about
responding to all inquiries on the same day
Continued on page 8
they are received.
Tequila, Lemon, and Salt
by Daniel Reveles
Sunbelt Publications, 2005
185 pgs, paperback, $14.95
ISBN 0-932653-65-0
www.sunbeltpub.com
One of several intimate
courtyards found throughout the
grounds of Swan Inn insures
privacy and peaceful interludes
to those wishing to take
advantage of them. This is one
of the inner patios.
The pool at Swan Inn is
surrounded by patio, flowering
plants, a magnificent African
Tulip tree, beach furniture,
and the entrances to the Inn's
two Casitas. The water is
heated to a comfortable
temperature and the entire
area is perhaps one of the
most serene spots in Ajijic.
THE MEXICO FILE
Published ten times a year by Simmonds Publications
5580 La Jolla Blvd., #306 La Jolla, CA 92037
Voice mail: 800-563-9345 Phone/Fax: (858) 456-4419
E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.mexicofile.com
Subscription rate is $39.00 per year in the U.S., $49.00 per year outside the U.S.
PDF version available, see subscription box for details
Promotional rates are sometimes available. ©2006 Simmonds Publications
The Mexico File contents are intended for the independent traveler. The information given is believed to
be reliable, but cannot be guaranteed for accuracy due to constant changes that occur in a country this size.
Unsolicited stories, photos and letters are welcomed and encouraged. Postage should be included for any items
to be returned. This publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the editor
and the author of the article.
Editor: David Simmonds
Publisher: Robert Simmonds, Ph.D.
Contributing Editors: Lynne Doyle, Jane Onstott Design/Layout: Paul Hartsuyker www.hartworks.net
Reviewed by
Robert B. Simmonds
Tecate, right on the border with the U.S., is
located 34 miles east of Tijuana. The U.S., in
fact, lies in the hills that dominate the northern
edge of the town, but it in no way dominates
the persona of the town itself. Tecate is a
bordertown which, as much as it can, retains
the character of a sleepy, seldom visited, but
magical Mexican town. Its claim to fame is
the Tecate Brewery, as well as a couple of
deluxe spa resorts in the desert east of the
town, most notably Rancho La Puerta. And it
has a much quicker border crossing than the
San Ysidro and Otay Mesa crossings to the
west – but then there’s that 34 miles and back.
Tecate’s other attraction is Daniel Reveles,
who lives in the company of coyotes on a
remote ranch on the outskirts of town.
Reveles has written two other collections of
essays on the colorful characters of Tecate.
Enchiladas, Rice, and Beans was published
in 1994, and Salsa and Chips came out in
1996. Reveles was born in Los Angeles of
Mexican-born parents. He went on to a career
in entertainment – as a disc jockey, recording
artist, songwriter, and television producer.
And now he entertains us with tales from the
town of Tecate, where he has lived for the past
twenty-five years.
The nine stories in Reveles’ latest
collection generate a feel for the timeless
character of Mexican life in the small town.
Reality interweaves with magic. Prayer has its
place alongside witchcraft. The forces of
nature, of inevitability, of human inclinations
are all at work in this delightful little book.
Life and death intermingle. Now, that’s
Mexico.
Nothing worthy of note happens in Tecate.
That may be why we don’t have a daily
newspaper. I do remember what could have
been a major news story, though. A couple of
years ago Chanito’s goats got loose in the
plaza and did some pretty extensive trimming
and pruning in the rose gardens in the plaza.
That was kind of exciting. Big Nalgas
Machado arrested the old man, fined him
three hundred pesos and one goat. Machado
barbecued the goat on his rancho and it was
pretty good.
7