October - Dem tull

PITCAIRN NEWS
DEM TULL
Volume 9 No 7
Break’im Hip and Minali amid the steep valleys on
the southeastern coast
October 2015
ISSUE NO 88
Kari in Auckland tull: Another sad Pitcairn funeral in New Zealand. Kean Warren passed away after a short illness, totally unexpected
– it was a huge shock to our community.
Still cool weather both on Pitcairn and in New Zealand, summer coming late this year. ‘Har wind from Tautama’, a southeasterly, is
known to be ruthlessly cold, and there have been a lot of rainy days as well.
There was a Bounty Festival in Tahiti in October, but nobody from Pitcairn attended, there was no ship or yacht by which to travel.
But on the 28th there was a ship stopping – “Happy Dragon” on its way to New Zealand – and the whole crew was able to come ashore
and look around. Pitcairn has not had a ‘real’ ship visiting, apart from the Claymore and cruise ships, since early this year. On the 31st
cruise ship “L’Austral” appeared over the horizon and anchored a whole day before scheduled, but she stayed for the next day as well.
Thanks to Brian, Meralda, Terry, Michael, Melva, Andrew, Maureen, Thurman Petty, Stein Hoff for pictures
SOCIAL EVENTS
The children invited the whole community to a sports event followed by a BBQ in Aute Valley on the 30th, much enjoyed by everyone,.
Cushana celebrated her birthday with a public dinner at the Square, the tables as usual groaning under the load of good weckles.
Back issues of Dem Tull
2007-2015 can be found at
www.demtullpitcairn.com
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The old lata tree up Palwa Walley, under which so many of us used to
‘court’ in our younger days. On Pitcairn where there was no place for the
young people to go – no café or bar or youth club or even a drugstore
where they could share an icecream – young couples used to go up in
the hills in the evening to enjoy the view and each other, as well as good
radio reception from Pacific stations. We always brought a radio, and
KRAK from Sacramento, USA, on medium wave was the most popular. I
guess that is why everybody from that KRAK-generation are
country&western fans, and got stacks of LPs by Johnny Cash, Charlie
Pride, Loretta Lynn, Marty Robbins etc.
PITCAIRN SAYINGS:
On seeing a person in a particularly
colourful and wildpatterned trousers,
which might attract certain watery
creatures:
“Dem es gud’un fer go fer catfish
down Landing”
Commenting on someone who just
does not impress, and kar wut way:
“He es green as an obro”
(obro is a plant much used in cooking
before)
th
It is election time again on Pitcairn. 9 of November was voting day. Two
candidates for Deputy Governor:
Charlene
Brenda
Seven candidates for the five Councillor seats:
Charlene
Darralyn
Brenda
Michele
Sue
Lea
Leslie
How extraordinary! Where have all the men gone? Is this a good or a bad
sign, that the men prefer not to be involved in government and politics?
9th November: Charlene got the Deputy Mayor, and Councillors are Darralyn,
Brenda , Leslie, Michele, Lea . We estimate a total of 37 registered voters.
The new road made along the rocks in Tedside, from the new jetty in Water Walley to Frankie over by the coconuts where
the regular road ended. Left: looking towards Water Valley from Frankie. Middle: Looking down on the coastal road from
up on the ridge. Right: Looking towards Frankie from Friday’s Trail above Water Walley.
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THE BUILDING AND LAUNCHING OF THE PITCAIRN LONGBOATS
Longboat Hoho was launched 1944, built from local timber by the men, on the site where the last longboat Stick is now finally resting
(DT May 2014), at the time called “Up Chips” or “Down Ettie’s” by the Top Road. Pictures from building and launching by Les Young and
Jim Gribben, temp. residents in 1944/45, as operators at the radio station.
The last Pitcairn-built wooden longboat was built in the big tractor shed at The Edge and launched in 1982. It usually went by the name
“Stick”, distinguising it from the aluminium boats we got later on. Thurman Petty who was our pastor at the time, recorded several
hours of the building process, from the very beginning when the men went out with chainsaws and axes to the farflung valleys and cliff
areas searching for trees with the necessary bend in their trunk or branches to use for the boat’s ribs. The fourteen men worked on the
boat for several months, but for the very first time using power tools, and had the help of two tractors to push and drag the boat down
the dirt road to The Landing.
Left: planking
the hull
Right: “Stick” in
almost the
same place
under White
Rock as the
“Hoho” pictured
above, about 40
years earlier.
Left: the ribs of
the longboat
from the inside
before planking.
Right: the redpainted “Stick”
finally in the
water, next to
old “Number 4”
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by Tim
(1938 – 2015)
OH, SON!
Kean Dunstrom Warren was born on
September 7th, 1938, the son of Bobby and Molly, one
of several siblings and step-siblings.
A fit and agile young man, he was renowned
for his physical prowess. He eventually moved to New
Zealand where he worked as a wharfie. It is primarily
from that occupation that one of his nicknames was
“Captain”.
He was married to Daphne for over fifty
years. Together they had four children, Maureen,
Pawl, Richard and Leanne, several grandchildren and
great-grandchildren. As of this writing, Pawl is the
only one who currently lives on Pitcairn.
With Daphne, his faithful companion
through more than fifty years of marriage
Kean out fishing in the longboat, a
favourite pastime
On nearing retirement age, Kean and Daphne moved back to Pitcairn
and built their house on Daphne’s father’s land Up Dorcas Apple. He
kept himself active, and in later years was a prominent leader and elder
of the church.
He had come out to New Zealand this year to check out his
eyes, but tragically suffered a fatal fall in Wellington when his head
received a serious blow. He never recovered and passed away on
October 22nd, 2015.
“Oh, Son!” A term I often heard either from him or regarding
him. It is how I first really knew him, since it was what my father
always called him. As I mentioned earlier, I tended to call him
“Captain.” But one of the many fond memories I have of him was when
listening to him and my father speak, or “talk mess.” My father has
something of a cheeky nature, and enjoyed ribbing Kean, and Kean
would always respond by shaking his head and saying “Oh, Son!”
When I was last on Pitcairn, we often visited each other to talk
on a long list of topics (and also just sitting down and “talk mess”),
ranging from ships and history (a passion we both shared), old-school
wrestling (I often called him “Abdullah the Butcher,” and he more than
once referred to me as “Andre the Giant.”), and strangely enough for
me, Religious Philosophy (a topic I generally can’t be stuffed making
conversation about [unlike him I do not consider myself an Adventist],
but his enthusiasm made it impossible to avoid). From him I also
learned much about the maritime history of Pitcairn, especially about
the Pitcairn-built schooner Messenger, of which he said to me, “she go
faster sideways un backwards than she do forward, un you know, sound
good,” he would add with a humorous chuckle. I met him for the last
time in 2012 at a barbecue when he visited Australia. We prattled on
about all sorts of things, just like before, and it was invigorating as
always. As with many other people, I will treasure those moments.
Hooray, Captain! May yus shep always go sideways!
4
With Daphne, Paul and Sue on the
veranda he built outside the lounge
room a couple of years ago, and which
he was rightly proud of, with the
fantastic view over the Pacific.
We will remember the serious Kean as he preached in church, but most of all we will remember his
delighted laughter in lively conversation with neighbours Dennis and Brian. They used to share a
cuppa at least once a day, philosophically solving the problems of the world.
We received some comments on the (for Pitcairn) unfortunate radio program presented by Rhiannon Adam recently (DT September 2015).
“I enjoyed her blog, I thought she got a lot of the people I know over there right on the button, but I hated her radio program, so revengeful”.
“She had good intentions, but expected too much. Didn’t she know what the islanders had gone through already? Very unfortunate that some were very
rude to her, she did not deserve that.”
Others commented it made them sad, having themselves experienced the hospitality and caring of the islanders. It is unfortunate but very
understandable that reporters carrying a camera, looking for a story to tell, will be avoided by islanders. Islanders have become suspicious after being
slagged by media for over 15 years, and it was naïve to believe that her taking Polaroid pictures to relate a pitkern story would turn the community around.
I found her blog interesting to read, and felt that she related truthful incidents, but it was a pity that she never saw the good side of Pitcairn and its
inhabitants.
*******
”What is the name of this plant?” I asked my companion during a walk in Auckland Botanic Gardens. The plant had a shine to it, and was
soft as feather to touch. He suggested “Leffeler’s Beard” – he is not always a botanic oracle. But it is amazing how the name Leffeler is
still alive and active in islanders’ minds. Edward Leffeler was a sailor from Bohemia (today’s Czech Republic) who arrived on Pitcairn with
Danish Niels Jacobsen around 1923. They had come together from the USA via Tahiti, where they met up with Edward and Leonard
Christian, and encouraged to go to Pitcairn. Leffeler was then in his 70s, with a long beard. Jacobsen married a local girl and started a
family, but Leffeler kept to himself, built a house close to Virgil’s below the Main Road, and settled down to carving for sale on the ships.
He used crutches and could not climb the ladder, so had to be hauled up on deck by rope. Island men were curious about his carving
technique, but he refused to show them, though they had a peep when he displayed his souvenirs for the sailors on board ships.
According to tradition, the island carvers made only walking sticks and book boxes, and Leffeler was the first to create fish, turtles etc.
He was observed out at Bang Iron several times, so when he died in October 1925, and no money was found, it was believed he had
buried his money out at Bang Iron. Needless to say, though hopeful treasure hunters
looked around out there, nobody ever found any treasure. Or did they?
Edward Leffeler’s grave marker
down the cemetery. In spite of his
short stay on Pitcairn - only a
couple of years and so long ago Leffeler has remained an enigma
to the islanders who have not
forgotten him after all this time.
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Where: Waikanae Pools, Ngarara Road, Waikanae
Time: 10.00am - 8 pm
Shared weckle, bbq's are available for use. Play rounders and other sports.
Catch up with friends and family. Lollie scramble. Have Fun. Please let friends
and family know.
Everyone welcome. Help us celebrate 226 years old
Adult (16 years+)
$5.00 each
Child (5-15 years)
$2.50 each
Adult swimming with a child under 5 years of age
$1.50 each
Spectators
Free
Community Services card holder, Senior Citizen
$2.50 each
Family pass (family of 4, max 2 adults) extra family $11.30 each
member $2.00
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Family pass plus hydroslide (family of 4, max 2
adults)
extra family member is $2.00 plus $2.50
$18.80
Group Discount Adult (10 or more)
$4.50
Group Discount Child (10 or more)
$2.30
Contact: Roger (04)2355138 or 0212660657 Email; [email protected]
Maureen (04) 2376758 or 0276630070 email: [email protected]
TIMOTHY YOUNG TULL
[email protected]
Well, things are winding down for Dem Tull, and after some
banter with the powers-that-ain't, it was decided that Hall of
Fame-wise, there will be only one for the final year of this
newsletter’s run, but that will come in the final issue. For
now, I will also fulfil a promise made some years ago and
write about something requested way back then. The subject
- Cornwallis.
Cornwallis was a prominent figure in the American
War of Independence, and he…oops, my bad. Been reading
up on that particular history recently, and my mind tends to
be flighty. Heh, heh, heh. Anyway, the clipper ship
Cornwallis was built in 1862, taking six months to build (the
source is from the Young Archives, but don’t quote me on the
accuracy, I haven’t got around to completely verifying it). She
was owned by Balfour Williamson and Company, and travelled the world as clipper ships did. She did runs to the US West
Coast from England, (as well as Australia and Chile according to one source). She was in very many ways similar to the
Cutty Sark, though there were some differences, especially in the rig, though the hull shapes were virtually the same (got this
from a Cutty Sark fanatic).
On January 23rd, 1875, she was off Pitcairn under the command of Captain James Hammond. Being a fan of the
story of the Bounty, he came ashore with some of the crew to visit, leaving the ship under the command of the First Mate.
Shortly after, the ship was seen being driven by contrary winds towards the shore, specifically the place known as “Down
Isaac’s.” All the able bodied men rushed down to the Landing, but it was too late, and the Cornwallis was driven against the
rocks, her bow torn open, and the ship sank rapidly.
From Cornwallis’
wreck just off
Adamstown,
resting at a depth
of only 10-15
meters:
Left shows clearly
the ribs of the ship,
and at right it
doesn’t take an
expert to identify
the anchor.
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Some years ago I came across this Cornwallis porthole in the
DM office at the Square, but it is now in the local museum.
Below: Close-up of the encrusted porthole, lying underwater for
140 years
.
Everyone aboard, both Pitcairners and crew, were saved by the efforts of those
who came from shore. The ship settled almost up against the land as the weather
worsened. The only other things saved from the wreck were two boats, one being the
captain’s gig that he had earlier taken ashore, and the other was one of the lifeboats
recovered the next day. Due to the harsh weather nothing else could be saved.
Sadly, my great-great grandfather’s brother George Tomlin Young, at the
time only 12, saw a piece of wreckage on the rocks Down Isaac’s and tried to retrieve
it, but the waves suddenly washed over the area, and the boy was swept out. Family
accounts tell that the boy was crushed between timbers of the wreck and the rocks, but
due to he growing storm, his body was never recovered. A day or so after the wreck,
the American ship Dauntless visited, and took the crew of the Cornwallis off the
island.
Today, Cornwallis is one of the more impressive wrecks on the island, and
from time to time images of it have been shown by some claiming it was the Bounty, from the 1930’s till today. Though I
give some the benefit of the doubt, when a Pitcairner recently claimed it, I call them a Freakin NIMROD! Anyway, it is
quite an impressive wreck, and can be seen from the surface. Not much has been taken off the wreck with the exception of
some brass portholes, and she is still a pretty sight (well, for shipwreck kooks like yours truly).
Well, short of this year’s Hall of Fame’s conclusion special, that is it for me and Dem Tull. Hope you enjoyed my
ranting.
Since we had election recently,
here is a picture from the early
1940s on Voting day at the
Square. The fence across the
Square is to divide the church
ground from the government
buildings, like Court House and
Post Office. No fancy voting
booths like we have had the last
years to provide privacy at
voting, just putting their piece of
paper in a slot, and then the
officials counted the results.
Dem Tull is subject to
copyright in its entirety.
The contents may not
be reproduced in any
form, either in whole or
in part, without written
permission
of
the
publisher.
Hart’s all. Ef any yorly wunta tull, tulla Kari in
Auckland at [email protected] or Tim in Australia
on [email protected]. Hooray
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Timorn [email protected]. Hooray!