yurt pitching inst good.pub

1
Getting Ready
Warning:
Do not attempt to pitch your yurt on a windy day!
Even moderate winds can be dangerous until your
yurt is completely pitched and secured.
Have your deck ready, and your bender board in place.
Please refer to the Yurt Deck Plans at the back of this booklet for
drawings of simple yurt decks. Or request blue prints of “built-up”
yurt decks. Simple yurt deck plans can also been seen at our
website www.coloradoyurt.com.
If you receive your yurt by truck freight, a Phillips head
screwdriver is required to open the big crate. A cordless drill with
a Phillips head bit is suggested.
Read your packing list. The packing list describes each item,
its quantity, and what it’s used for. Make sure you have
everything! Report any shipping damage immediately by calling
800-288-3190.
2
Tools & Supplies
You should have the following tools on hand:
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Stepladders: 6’ and 8’ stepladders; larger—10’ and 12’
are helpful for big yurts, especially if you don’t intend to
build a scaffold.
Drill with 5/16”, 3/8” & 7/16” socket drivers, Phillips screwdriver bit, straight screwdriver bit, 3/16” drill bit
Needle-nose pliers
Adjustable wrench
7/16” open end wrench
Tape measure
Scissors
Pencil
30’-40’ 3/8” Rope (or comparable)
Level: 2’ or 4’
When using CORR Brackets: 9/16” open end wrench &
9/16” ratcheting box end wrench or 9/16” socket with
ratchet wrench.
It is also handy to have on hand: staple gun, drill bit set,
Phillips and straight screwdrivers, materials and tools to
build a scaffold. (See page 5.)
3
Section 1
Setting Up the Yurt Frame
Expanding the lattice.
Setting Up the Lattice & Door
1. Set the lattice wall on top of your deck, right
side up. Note that at the bottom of the wall a rivet
has been omitted at every other lattice joint. With
the smooth side of the rivets facing out, expand the
wall around the perimeter of the yurt (start opposite
the door and expand the lattice in both directions—
this will make it easier to adjust the height later).
Leave a 48” space for each door; a 54” space is
required for a French door.
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE TWO OR MORE DOORS YOUR YURT WILL INCLUDE THE SAME
NUMBER OF LATTICE WALL SECTIONS. IF THE DOORS ARE NOT OPPOSITE ONE
ANOTHER (180º APART), THE MEASUREMENT, FROM CENTER TO CENTER (AS
MEASURED AT THE TOP OF THE DOORS), IS ___________ ((THIS DIMENSION
CAN ALSO BE FOUND ON YOUR PACKING LIST). IF YOUR DOORS ARE 180°
APART IT IS CRITICAL THAT THEY ARE EXACTLY OPPOSITE EACH OTHER ALONG
THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE CIRCLE. USE A SOFT TAPE MEASURE TO VERIFY
THIS FACT BY MEASURING FROM THE CENTER POINT OF ONE DOOR THRESHOLD
TO THE CENTER POINT OF THE SECOND DOOR THRESHOLD — MEASURE
BOTH DIRECTIONS TO INSURE THE DISTANCES ARE EQUAL.
2. Set the door(s) in position. Remove the two 1” x 4”
back-up boards and the aluminum track from the
doorjambs. Adjust the lattice wall height so the holes at
the end match the holes in the doorjambs on one side.
With the lattice to the inside of the doorjamb, slide the
(5/16” x 5”) carriage bolts from the outside, through the
holes in the jamb and the corresponding holes in the
ends of the lattice. Place the 1” x 4” back-up board over
the carriage bolts and tightenthe wing-nuts a few turns.
Repeat this process for the other side of the door (and
any other doors).
HINT: TO ALIGN THE HOLES IN THE JAMB WITH THE HOLES IN THE LATTICE, PIVOT THE DOOR SO IT MEETS THE PLANE OF THE LATTICE AS IT
COMES AROUND THE PERIMETER.
Securing lattice to the door.
4
3. Later you will screw the threshold of the door into
the deck. For now adjust the door(s) so they are
centered at the proper position along the perimeter.
Align the inner surface of the doorjamb (not the backup boards) with the outer surface of the bender board.
The outer edge of the door threshold(s) will extend
beyond the perimeter a few inches.
Expand or contract lattice wall.
TOOLS:
DRILL WITH 7/16” DRIVER,
DRILL WITH PHILLIPS BIT
(OR PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER),
7/16” WRENCH
(OR ADJUSTABLE WRENCH)
4. Now adjust the height of the lattice all the way
around the perimeter by expanding or contracting the
lattice—approximately 70” tall for standard height yurt
and 81” tall for taller wall yurts. The height of the
lattice wall may vary +/- ¼” from the specified height
(especially if you have more than one door), but try to
get the lattice an even height all the way around the
perimeter, or between each door.
5. At the bottom of your lattice wall a rivet has been
omitted from every other lattice joint. Attach your “L”
brackets through open rivet holes with the ¼” x 1½”
machine screws and ¼” nylock nuts provided. The
longer leg of the bracket (with one hole)
attaches to the inside of the lattice. The
head of the bolt goes to the outside of the
yurt and the nut goes to the inside. Using
the ¼” x 1” lag screws provided, attach
every third bracket to the deck with one
screw per bracket. When attaching the
bracket, push the lattice wall against the
bender board unless you have wall
insulation. If you have wall insulation leave
about a ½” gap between the lattice and the
bender board so the wall insulation can be
slipped in later. You can go back and bolt
Steel brackets anchor lattice wall to deck.
down the rest of the brackets later, but you
may need to adjust your lattice slightly
(especially if you have more than one door), after the roof of
the yurt is on—so for now attach only a limited number of
brackets to the floor.
5
HINT: IF YOU HAVE WALL
INSULATION USE A SPACER
BETWEEN THE LATTICE WALL
AND THE BENDER BOARD TO
LEAVE A SPACE FOR IT. A
SMALL PIECE OF ½” OR ¾”
PLYWOOD WORKS WELL.
6. Beginning above the
door header, place the
cable in the top of the
lattice wall all the way
around as shown. The
cable has been pre-cut
to the correct
The cable rests on the top of the lattice wall.
circumference. If the
ends of the cable don’t
quite meet you must either pull the slack out of the cable or
adjust your lattice wall to the proper circumference by pulling
it in at the top. If you seem to have too much slack in the
cable try to distribute the slack evenly around the
perimeter and push the top of the lattice out to
take up the slack.
42”
Setting Up the Ring & Rafters
7. To set the compression ring and the rafters of
your yurt it is highly recommended that you build a
simple scaffold to carry the weight of the ring and
rafters while the framework is being secured—
especially when pitching 24’ and larger yurts.
Scaffolding is also very helpful when you raise the
exterior roof, which on a larger yurt can be very
heavy. Build the scaffold according to the
dimensions in the chart and illustration (shown
here).
YURT HEIGHTS
Height to top of compression ring.*
Subtract 3” for scaffold height.
Add 16” for height with dome.
42”
42”
Hints:
1.
2.
Make the top bars at least 42” long.
The four main posts can be 16”
shorter than the finished height of
the ring. Clamp extensions to the
posts, so that when the ring is supported by the rafters, the extensions can be removed.
Yurt Size
(diameter)
Standard
Height
Taller Wall
Height
16’
9’-3”
10’-2”
20’
10’-0”
10’-11”
24’
11’-6”
12’-5”
27’
12’-3”
13’-2”
30’
13’-0”
13’-11”
*Plus or minus one inch.
6
TOOLS:
NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS
8. Use a needle-nose pliers to remove the acrylic dome from
the compression ring: detach the 6 springs from the eye
screws on the dome and unhook the black snap-hooks on
the 4 safety straps. Set the dome aside.
HINT: EXCEPT FOR THE RAFTERS LABELED “DOOR”, EACH RAFTER HAS A
“CABLE-KEEPER SCREW” IN THE NOTCH WHERE IT FITS OVER THE MAIN CABLE.
IT IS HELPFUL TO BACK OFF EACH OF THESE SCREWS NOW SO THE RAFTERS CAN
BE HOOKED OVER THE CABLE. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS ENTIRELY.
If you are pitching a smaller yurt and wish to
assemble the roof framework without a scaffold go to
step 13 on page 8.
Raising the Ring with Scaffolding
9. Center the scaffold inside the lattice wall,
adjust the height according to chart (pg 5). Set
the ring on top of the scaffold right side up:
large diameter up, beveled edge pointing down.
Tie or clamp the ring to the scaffolding.
Scaffolding method
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE A EURO-DOME LIFTER, THE LOWER “U” BRACKET IS
ATTACHED TO THE INSIDE OF THE RING. ORIENT THE RING SO IT ENDS UP WHERE
YOU ULTIMATELY WANT THE LIFTER (AWAY FROM THE PREVAILING WIND).
If you have CORR brackets (“U” shaped metal brackets
attached around the circumference of your compression ring)
go to step 11 on page 7.
Attaching Rafters with Pins
10. If you do not have CORR brackets the rafters
attach to the ring with a 5” steel pin. Slide a pin into
the hole at the square end of the rafter and then guide
the pin into one of the holes around the edge of the
ring. One person stands on the scaffold platform to
help guide the pin into the ring. Another person stands
inside the yurt and slips the notched end of the rafter
onto the cable. The rounded edge of the rafter goes
up. Tighten the cable-keeper screw. Pin another rafter
into place a third of the way around the ring and slip
Detail of ring with pins
the notched end over the cable. Tighten each keeper
screw as you go to prevent rafters from slipping off the
cable. Pin a third rafter into place, splitting the remaining
space around the ring.
(Continued on page 7)
7
(Continued from page 6)
HINT: WHEN PLACING THE NOTCHED END OF THE RAFTER OVER THE
CABLE, PUT YOUR BACK TO LATTICE WALL AND LEAN AGAINST IT. LOOK
UP AT THE RING AND MAKE SURE THE RAFTER COMES OFF OF THE RING
AT A “RIGHT ANGLE”, LIKE A RAY.
Now place the rest of the rafters around the compression
ring. Alternate the rafters between sections, always
placing the next rafter in the middle of the biggest empty
space. Space the rafters around the cable more or less
evenly. After about a third of the rafters are in place you
can lower the adjustable part of the scaffold so it no
longer supports the ring.
Tighten cable-keeper screw.
NOTE: TWO (OR 3) RAFTERS ARE LABELED “DOOR” FOR EACH DOOR OF
THE YURT. THESE ARE SPECIALLY CUT TO SIT ON TOP OF THE DOOR
HEADER. PIN THEM INTO THE RING AND ONTO THE CABLE ABOVE THE DOOR. FOR
EASE OF HANDLING, PASS THEM OVER THE DOOR AND UP TO THE RING. SLIDE THE
DOOR RAFTERS ON THE CABLE SO THEY SIT ABOVE THE DOOR SYMMETRICALLY.
Attaching Rafters with CORR Brackets
11. Clamp or tie the compression ring to the top of the scaffold
TOOLS:
at the proper height (see chart on page 5). One person
9/16” RATCHETING BOX
stands on the scaffold platform to guide the rafter into a CORR
END WRENCH
(OR RATCHET WRENCH),
bracket. Another person stands inside the yurt and slips the
9/16” OPEN END (OR
notched end of the rafter onto the cable, rounded edge up. At
ADJUSTABLE WRENCH),
the CORR bracket, slide a bolt (3/8” x 2” hex head) through
LEVEL
the hole in the CORR bracket and through the pre-drilled hole
in the rafter. Put the nylock nut on the bolt and tighten with a
wrench firmly. Leave a little play in the connection so you can
level the ring and tighten the through-bolts later (see step 12).
Tighten the cable-keeper screw at the cable. Using the same
procedure, bolt another rafter into place a third of the way
around the ring and slip the notched end over the cable. (See
hint pg 8 ). Tighten each keeper screw as you go to prevent
the rafter from slipping off the cable. Bolt a third rafter into
place, splitting the remaining space around the ring.
Now place the rest of the rafters around the compression
ring. Alternate the rafters between sections, always
placing the next rafter in the middle of the biggest empty
space. Space the rafters around the cable more or less
evenly. Remember to look up at the ring and make sure
each rafter comes off of the ring at a “right angle”, like a
Detail of ring with CORRs
ray. After about a third of the rafters are in place you can
lower the adjustable part of the scaffold so it no longer
supports the ring.
8
HINT: WHEN PLACING THE NOTCHED END OF THE RAFTER OVER THE CABLE, PUT
YOUR BACK TO LATTICE WALL AND LEAN AGAINST IT.
NOTE: TWO (OR 3) RAFTERS ARE LABELED “DOOR” FOR EACH DOOR OF THE
YURT. THESE ARE SPECIALLY CUT TO SIT ON TOP OF THE DOOR HEADER. BOLT
THEM TO THE RING AND ONTO THE CABLE ABOVE THE DOOR. (FOR EASE OF
HANDLING, PASS THEM OVER THE DOOR AND UP TO THE RING.) SLIDE THE DOOR
RAFTERS ON THE CABLE SO THEY SIT ABOVE THE DOOR SYMMETRICALLY.
12. The ring might be out of level after all the rafters are in
place. You can push the ring into a level position and then
tighten each bolt firmly for the final time. Use a level to check.
Lean against lattice to
set rafters on cable.
Alternate Method: Raising the Ring without Scaffolding
13. If you wish to raise your compression ring without the
benefit of a scaffold you will need a stepladder. It is relatively
easy to raise a 20’ or smaller yurt without scaffolding, but a
scaffold is recommended if you have CORR brackets.
Choose three rafter locations on the cable by dividing the
circumference into three more or less equal sections. Place
one rafter at each of the three locations and place the notched
end of the rafter, rounded end up, on the cable. Do not use a
“door rafter” as one of the first three rafters. Tighten
the cable-keeper screw so the rafter cannot come off
the cable. Let the other end of each of the three
rafters rest on the deck.
Raising the ring without
scaffolding.
14. Place the ring in the center of the deck right side
up (larger diameter up, beveled edge pointing down).
Let one side of the ring to rest on the deck and raise
the other side of the ring and pin two of the rafters into
corresponding holes in the ring with the pins provided.
(Or bolt them tightly into the CORR Brackets).
Now place a stepladder in position so you can raise
the ring and the 3rd rafter at the same time (be sure the ring
will not hit the ladder when you raise it). Place a pin in the end
of the 3rd rafter and holding the ring in one hand and the rafter
in the other go up the ladder; raise the ring and rafter until they
reach the proper height and the rafter can be pinned into the
appropriate hole (or bolted tightly into the CORR Bracket).
(Continued on page 9)
9
(Continued from page 8)
HINT: THIS STEP IS EASIER IF ANOTHER
PERSON SUPPORTS THE RING ON THE
OTHER SIDE, EITHER BY STANDING ON ANOTHER LADDER AND HOLDING THE RING
OR BY PROPPING IT UP FROM BELOW WITH
A POLE (FOR ADDITIONAL STABILITY, A
FORKED POLE IS RECOMMENDED).
15. Now place the rest of the
rafters around the compression
ring. Alternate the rafters
between sections, always placing
the next rafter in the middle of
biggest empty space. Space the
rafters around the cable more or
Ring supported by three rafters.
less evenly. Remember to look
up at the compression ring and make sure each rafter
comes off of the ring at a right angle”, like a ray. (See
hint on page 6).
NOTE: TWO (OR 3) RAFTERS ARE LABELED “DOOR” FOR EACH DOOR OF THE
YURT. THESE HAVE BEEN SPECIALLY CUT TO SIT ON TOP OF THE DOOR
HEADER. PIN THEM INTO THE RING AT THE APPROPRIATE PLACES AND ONTO
THE CABLE ABOVE THE DOOR. (YOU CAN PASS THEM OVER THE DOOR
HEADER UP TO THE RING.) SLIDE THE DOOR RAFTERS ON THE CABLE SO
THEY SIT ABOVE THE DOOR SYMMETRICALLY.
The Basic Yurt Framework is Now Completely Erected
If necessary, you can move the rafters to different spaces
around the lattice so they are more evenly spaced.
 Later you will
plumb and level the
door, and add wind
and snow load studs if
you have them. If you
have roof insulation
please go to Section
IV, “Installing the Roof
Insulation” on page 16.
If not, please turn to
the next page to
continue.
Completed basic yurt framework.
10
Section II
Installing the Yurt Roof
HINT: THE ROOF OF THE YURT CAN BE VERY STIFF AND
DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH IN COLD WEATHER. PUT THE
ROOF IN A WARM PLACE FOR A FEW HOURS (OR OVERNIGHT) IF YOU ARE PITCHING YOUR YURT ON A COLD DAY.
1. The yurt roof has been folded and rolled
into “two rolls” (see illustration at left). Carry
the bundle up the ladder or scaffold. Be
careful: larger yurt roofs are very heavy! One
of the rolls of the roof has been labeled with an
arrow pointing in the direction of the door.
HINT: DO NOT UNTIE THE CORD AROUND THE ROOF UNTIL IT
IS ON TOP OF THE SCAFFOLD (OR COMPRESSION RING).
WITH ESPECIALLY HEAVY ROOFS, UNTIE THE CORD WHEN
THE ROOF IS ON TOP OF THE SCAFFOLD PLATFORM AND
THEN “SNAKE” THE ROLLS UP THROUGH THE RING.
Make sure you orient the roof correctly.
Unroll each side down a rafter, keeping the
proper orientation. Unfold the roof down the
rafters so it covers half the framework. One
person works from the ladder or scaffold and
one or two people help from below. When the
roof is half open, undo the last fold by pulling
the top layer up and over the ring and rafters.
HINT: TO OPEN THE LAST FOLD OF THE ROOF, TIE A ROPE
TO THE GROMMETS ON THE EDGE OF THE ROOF SO THE
TOP PERSON CAN PULL IT BACK UP AND OVER THE
RAFTERS TO THE OTHER SIDE.
The rolled up yurt roof.
11
2. Adjust the roof by rotating it so the door cut-outs in the
valance line up with the doorjambs. To do this, have two
people (more is better) around the perimeter of the yurt
hold onto the valance. Simultaneously (“on the count of
three…”) shift the roof until it is aligned.
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN ONE DOOR, THE CUT-OUTS IN THE ROOF
VALANCE MAY NOT ALIGN WITH EACH DOOR PERFECTLY. IF ADJUSTING
THE ROOF CANNOT SATISFACTORILY ALIGN THE CUT-OUTS YOU MAY HAVE
TO MOVE THE DOOR OR DOORS A FEW INCHES. (SEE STEP 5. , SECTION I, PAGE 4).
REMOVE THE NECESSARY “L” BRACKETS FROM THE LATTICE WALL AND PUSH THE
DOOR OVER, EXPANDING AND CONTRACTING THE LATTICE ON EITHER SIDE OF THE
DOOR UNTIL THE ROOF CUT-OUT ALIGNS WITH THE DOORJAMB.
Unrolling the roof over insulation.
3. Make sure the roof sits on top of the rafters evenly.
Check to see it meets the end of the rafters at more or less
the same point all the way around the perimeter. Tug on
the roof to adjust it, don’t let one area sag lower than another. The roof may be wrinkled or baggy; it will settle later.
Roof in place.
TOOLS:
DRILL WITH
3/8” DRIVER
4. At the top of each door cut-out in the valance nine
grommets are set in webbing. Center the door cut-out(s)
over the door(s) side to side, and align the grommets so that
they can be screwed into the center of the door header (to
avoid splitting). Using the 1” self-tapping screws provided,
screw two center grommets into the door header so the roof
will remain centered over each door. You will go back and
screw through the rest of the grommets later.
5. With the stainless, slotted hex screws (1-1/4”) provided, screw
the top of the roof into the compression ring through the small
grommets provided. Not all the grommets will hit a good
surface on the ring—you only need to put screws in 3 or 4
positions around the opening.
TOOLS:
DRILL WITH 7/16”
SOCKET DRIVER
6. When the door cut-outs in the valance align properly with all
doors, you can screw all the “L” brackets into the deck using
the lag screws provided (¼ x 1”).
12
Section III
Hanging the Yurt Wall, Plumbing the Door, Installing the
Dome
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN ONE DOOR YOU WILL HAVE THE SAME
NUMBER OF WALL SECTIONS. DETERMINE WHICH WALL SECTION GOES
WHERE, CONSIDERING THE LENGTH AND WINDOW LAYOUT.
1. Wall sections have rope loops at the top and grommets at the bottom. With the loops to the outside, unroll
a little of wall, starting to the left (from outside) of the
door. The wall laces to the roof crochet style. Align the
first loop in the wall with the first grommet in the roof.
Lacing the wall to the roof.
Sliding on the track.
NOTE: THE LACING GROMMETS ARE 12” ON CENTER. THEY ARE SET
INTO A BAND OF WEBBING BETWEEN THE ROOF AND THE VALANCE.
THE WALL GOES AGAINST THE LATTICE, WITH THE LOOPS FACING OUT.
2. With the top of the wall underneath the bottom edge
of the roof, thread the first loop through the first
grommet. Extend the loop toward the second grommet.
Push the second loop through the second grommet, and
then through the first loop. Extend the second loop
toward the third grommet. Push the third loop up
through the third grommet and the second loop.
Continue all the way around the yurt, unrolling the wall
as you go. When you come to the last loop, push it
through the last grommet, and tie a knot back around
the next to last loop. Repeat the process if you have
more than one wall section.
If you have wall insulation please go to Section V: Installing
Wall Insulation, page 17. If not, please continue.
Screwing in the track.
3. All wall sections have a rope sewn into each end.
To attach the walls to the doorjamb, slide the aluminum track over this rope. The track’s flat side faces
the lattice and the flange extends beyond the fabric.
With the pan head screws, screw the track flange into
the predrilled holes on the back of the doorjamb. To
do this, remove the backup boards from behind the
doorjamb to access the predrilled holes.
13
TOOLS:
DRILL WITH
3/8” DRIVER
3/16” DRILL BIT
4. Now you can finish attaching the door cut-out in the roof
valance to the door header. Using the 1” self-tapping screws,
screw through the rest of the grommets at the top of the door
cut out. Screw into the center of the door header to avoid
splitting. The lower corners of the door cut-outs attach to the
doorjambs with the eyescrews provided. Pre-drill for the eyescrews with a 3/16” bit. Screw a 1” self-tapping screw through
the grommets above eyescrews in the doorjamb.
5. With the stainless hex-slotted screws provided (1-1/4”), screw
the bottom of the wall into the bender board through the single
grommets (30” on center) at the bottom of the wall. Stretch
any slack out of the wall. You can also screw through the pairs
of grommets at the bottom of the wall (these alternate with the
single grommets) or lace a cord or cable all the way around the
bottom perimeter of the yurt. (No cord or cable is provided.)
6. Tighten the wing nuts on the backup boards. Push the backup
board tightly against the lattice and turn the wing nuts until they
are “finger-tight” against the boards.
TOOLS:
LEVEL,
DRILL WITH
PHILLIPS BIT
7. Plumb the door. Hold the level against the front face of the
doorjambs and determine if the door threshold at the bottom
needs to go in or out and if the door header at the top needs to
go in or out. Make the appropriate adjustments and using the
gold deck screws (3-1/2”) provided, screw through the threshold
into the deck and through the header into the door rafters. Be
careful to screw into the back of the rafter behind the cable.
NOTE: YOUR DOOR HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO STAY SQUARE AND PLUMB IN THE JAMB
AND IT HAS BEEN TREATED WITH “INTO THE WOOD” PENETRATING OIL TO RESIST
TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY CHANGES. A SEALANT OVER THE OILED FINISH, SUCH
AS URETHANE, CAN BE APPLIED TO FURTHER PROTECT YOUR DOOR FROM CLIMATE
CHANGES AND WEATHERING. IF THE OPERATION OF THE DOOR IS NOT SMOOTH,
NORMAL CORRECTIVE MEASURES SUCH AS BLOCK-PLANING MAY BE NECESSARY. IF
YOUR DOORJAMB GOES OUT OF SQUARE FROM SIDE TO SIDE, SHIM UNDERNEATH
THE DOOR THRESHOLD.
TOOLS:
ROPE
8. To set the acrylic dome at top of the yurt. One person standing
in the ring on a ladder (or the scaffold platform) tosses a rope
down to a person outside the yurt. Tie the end of the rope
through two of the eye-screws in the dome. Gently lift the
dome up onto the roof while the top person hauls up the rope.
Although the bottom edge of the dome is encased in a gasket,
(Continued on page 14)
14
(Continued from page 13)
this operation should be done carefully so the dome does
not abrade the roof. Don’t pull the dome up the roof
upside down or you’ll scratch the top surface of the dome.
9. Rotate the dome so the eyescrews in the dome align
with the eyescrews on the ring. If you have a Euro-Dome
Lifter align the “U” bracket on the dome with the “U”
bracket in the ring.
For Euro-Dome Lifter installation refer to the illustration on
page 15.
Dome strap & spring.
TOOLS:
NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS
10. Using a needle-nose pliers, attach the six springs from
the ring to the dome. Attach the four safety straps with the
snap hooks. Two of the safety straps should be placed
alongside the springs on either side of the lifter (if you have
one) and the other two should be exactly opposite. The two
springs in between do not need safety straps. The two straps
flanking the lifter can be loose; the other two should be tight
to hold the dome in place when it is lifted.
11. Attaching the valance rope, (if you have a Cistern System
skip this step and go to page 19). Tie the 3/16” poly valance
rope to an eyescrew in the bottom corner of a door cut-out
(step 4, on page 13) and lace the rope through the webbing
loops at the bottom of the valance. Pull the rope tight and tie
it off to the eyescrew on the other side of the door or to the
next eyescrew if you have more than one door.
12. Operating the windows. Install the plastic window dowels
into the pockets at the bottom of the window flaps. To operate the yurt windows, unzip the privacy flaps and roll them up.
Connect the buckles and tighten the straps at the top of the
flaps to keep the flaps rolled up. Tuck the rolled-up flaps under the valance to keep them from catching rain coming off
the roof. The clear plastic windows attached with Velcro over
the screens can be completely removed and stored when not
in use.
15
Euro-Dome Lifter Installation
Euro-Dome Lifter installed, shown at maximum extension.
1. Install the Euro-Dome Lifter by attaching
the lower spindle to the lower bracket
(mounted to the ring) with the two hex
bolts provided.
2. Extend the brass inner threads at the top
of the spindle up to the upper bracket
(mounted to the dome). Push the wing
bolt through the unthreaded hole in the
upper bracket, through the hole at the top
of the brass threads and into the
threaded hole in the bracket. Use the
two white spacers to keep the spindle
centered.
3. Attach the winding brace by hooking it
through the eye at the bottom of the spindle and operate the dome.
WARNING: DO NOT OPEN THE DOME MORE THAN SIX TO EIGHT
INCHES. DOME SHOULD OPEN ON LEEWARD SIDE. DO NOT OVER
TIGHTEN WHEN CLOSING. THE SPINDLE STOP AND SAFETY
STRAPS ARE PROVIDED TO PROTECT YOUR DOME.
Upper U bracket, attached to
dome, has 1 threaded hole. Lower
bracket attached to ring has 2
threaded holes.
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Section IV
Installing the Roof Insulation
1. If your yurt includes roof insulation, a liner has been
provided. After the entire framework of the yurt is complete,
carry the roof liner up the ladder (or scaffold) and put the
liner through the compression ring. Open and unfold the
liner over the rafters. Unless you have a Skypath (a
translucent rainbow shaped panel in the exterior roof), do
not worry about the orientation of the liner on the roof; there
is no specific orientation required.
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE A SKYPATH, A ZIPPER IS SEWN INTO YOUR ROOF LINER FOR
ACCESS TO THE SKYPATH. WHEN THE ROOF LINER IS COMPLETELY SPREAD OUT
OVER THE RAFTERS, ROTATE IT SO THAT THE ZIPPER ALIGNS WITH THE SKYPATH,
RELATIVE TO THE DOOR. (REFER TO THE ORIENTATION OF THE SKYPATH YOU
REQUESTED WHEN YOU ORDERED YOUR YURT.)
2. When the liner is spread out over the rafters, adjust it to
hang more or less evenly over the lattice (about 8-10”) all
the way around. Tighten the drawstring around the lattice
firmly. At the door, raise the liner so the drawstring sits on
top of the door header against the ends of the door rafters.
3. At the compression ring, arrange the liner material so it is
centered and then tighten the drawstring until it covers up
approximately half the ring.
4. The roof insulation is in two
large accordion folded
sections. One person should
stand up in the compression
ring on a ladder (or scaffold
platform) while another on a
ladder outside the yurt, hands
the narrow end of one of the
sections up. Unfold the section
so it lays flat on top of the
liner.
Liner & first half of the roof insulation in place.
(Continued on page 17)
17
(Continued from page 16)
Repeat this process for the other section of insulation. The two
sections should overlap. Don’t worry about the orientation of
the overlap. If you have a Skypath one of the insulation
sections has been pre-cut to correspond to the Skypath, align it
accordingly.
5. Adjust the two sections of roof insulation so they overlay the
compression ring at the top by 1—2” and extend over the ends
of the rafters by 1—2” at the bottom. Tape the two sections
together, where they overlap, with the aluminum tape provided.
HINT: THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE OVERLAP CAN BE HARD TO REACH. SECURE THE
INSULATION WITH A LITTLE (4”) PIECE OF TAPE AT THE TOP & BOTTOM. THEN
STARTING AT THE TOP, UNROLL THE TAPE DOWN TO YOUR HELPER. CUT THE TAPE
APPROX. 8” LONGER THAN NECESSARY. WITH THE SILVER SIDE DOWN, ALIGN THE
TAPE RIGHT BESIDE WHERE THE INSULATION OVERLAPS. WORKING TOGETHER PEEL
THE WHITE PAPER BACKING UP AND OFF. KEEPING THE TAPE TAUT BETWEEN YOU,
LIFT IF JUST ABOVE THE SURFACE OF THE ROOF, FLIP IT OVER, AND CENTER IT
ABOVE THE OVERLAP. PRESS IT DOWN FIRMLY.
The installation of the roof insulation is now complete. Please
go to Section II: Installing the Yurt Roof on page 10.
Section V
Installing the Wall Insulation
1. The wall insulation comes in multiple panels, which overlap 612” when installed. There is a panel for each window, with a
cut-out for the window opening. There are also solid panels for
between windows. When the windows in the exterior wall are
close together, the corresponding insulation panels may Velcro
together rather than overlap.
(Continued on page 18)
18
(Continued from page 17)
Each insulation panel is numbered sequentially, starting with
#1 to the left of the door (from outside the yurt). Before you
start installing the insulation panels, take them out of their
packaging and notice the numbers on the back of each. The
side of the panel with the fabric sewn to it faces the inside of
the yurt. The top of each panel has cotton webbing for tying to
the cable.
2. Install the window insulation panels first. The window panel
with the lowest number corresponds to first window to the left
of the door (from the outside). One or two people outside the
yurt should line this panel up with the first window and pass it
under the exterior wall to a person (or people) inside.
HINT: TO KEEP THE PANELS FROM GETTING SOILED, FOLD THEM BEFORE YOU FEED
THEM UP UNDER THE WALL, SO THEY DON’T TOUCH THE GROUND OR THE DECK.
3. Working through the lattice inside the yurt, adjust the insulation
so it aligns with the window opening in the exterior wall
(remember window opening in the exterior wall may pull down
a bit later, when you screw the wall into the bender board).
Tuck the panel up in front of the roof liner at the top and tie the
cotton webbing to the cable. Meanwhile, working from the outside, tuck the bottom of the panel in between the bender board
and the lattice wall. Repeat this process for each window. Remember, if you have windows close together the panels may
Velcro together rather than overlap.
4. Follow the same procedure for the panels that go between the
windows. For panels adjacent to the doorjambs, tuck them in
between the lattice and the jamb. Before tucking a panel into a
jamb, adjust it to overlap the next panel so that you don’t have
to tuck too much into the jamb.
The wall insulation is now complete. Go to Section II, Hanging
the Yurt Wall, step 3 on page 12.
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Section VI
Cistern System
1. Install the plastic
hanger to grommets with
the bolts and wingnuts
provided.
2. Install bulkhead fitting
(s) by cutting appropriate
hole in cistern material.
NOTE: THE CISTERN SYSTEM IS NOT
INTENDED AS A STORAGE TANK, MAKE
SURE YOUR BULKHEAD FITTINGS ARE
DRAINING PROPERLY. SYSTEM MUST BE
DISENGAGED DURING WINTER MONTHS TO
KEEP SNOW AND ICE FROM BUILDING UP
IN CISTERN AND ON THE ROOF.
Window Awnings
1. Zippered window flap unzips
to become window awning.
2. Awning hardware simply
slides up under valance and
attaches to deck or bender
board.
3. Awning hardware
“telescopes” to meet window
flap at black nylon webbing.
20
Cable Ties
If you do NOT have the Big Wind or Full Snow and Wind
package, cable ties have been provided to insure that the
yurt cable stays secure in the top of the lattice “crown”.
Simply loop the cable tie band around the lattice crown and
cable and then itself. Evenly space the cable ties around
the yurt (every 7 or 8 crowns or so).
21 Load Studs
Attaching Wind
Truss Plate
(hurricane clip)
Note: Due to possible variations in
wall height, the square end of your
studs may need to be cut to length.
Studs should fit underneath rafters,
tightly against lattice wall.

left
1)Attach the 3” angle brackets to the
bottom of each stud as shown using
the 1/4” x 1” lag screws provided.
2) Attach truss plates (hurricane
clips) to the rafters with the #8 hex
head (or Phillips head) sheet metal
screws provided. Note that the truss
plates are designated left and right
as you face the stud from inside the
yurt.
3)Make sure each stud is vertical
(plumb), and attach the 3” angle
bracket to the floor using 1/4” x 1”
lag screw provided.
3” Angle Bracket
right
22
4 x 6 girders in place.
Posts rest on precast
concrete footers.
2 x 6 tongue groove
gets screwed down.
Scribe and trim your decking
to the exact diameter of
your yurt.
23
Lattice wall and door in
place. Cable rests on
top of lattice
Compression ring is raised
with 3 rafters.
Entire yurt frame in place.
24
Section VII
Yurt Deck Plans
NOTE: WHEN BUILDING A YURT DECK, THE EXACT AREA THE YURT COVERS (THIS IS CALLED THE
“FOOTPRINT”) SHOULD BE AT LEAST 4” HIGHER THAN THE AREA AROUND IT TO ALLOW WATER RUN-OFF TO
DRAIN AWAY FROM THE YURT.
When building a wooden yurt deck two basic approaches, or a combination of
both, are suggested:
The Simple Yurt Deck.
A simple yurt deck is a round deck built to the exact footprint of the yurt. A
“front porch” is also incorporated into the framing. In a simple yurt deck 2 x 6
tongue and groove deck material, which can be used as the finished floor, is
screwed directly to beams. No joists are required, but, because of the relatively
large spaces between the beams, tongue and groove material is required. The
tongue and groove material can be sanded and finished for an attractive floor.
Framing plans with a material list for each size simple yurt deck follow. Material lists are not intended to be comprehensive since materials will vary with site
requirements.
The Built-up Yurt Deck.
A “built-up yurt deck “ is a deck of any size or shape whose dimensions are larger that the size (diameter) of the yurt. A raised circular area the exact diameter
of the yurt is then built on top of it. Full size prints of built-up yurt decks for each
size yurt are available for a slight charge. A sample of one of the prints follows.
A yurt can also be set on a concrete slab. Check with your local building department to determine footings and steel reinforcing required. When designing
a concrete slab be sure to follow the basic principle in bold print above.
In special circumstances a yurt can be placed directly on level ground for a
short period of time. Special hardware is required. Please contact ACD for advice. A yurt placed directly on the ground does not meet basic wind resistance
requirements.
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36
ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC
28 W. South 4th street
Montrose, Colorado 81401
LIMITED WARRANTY CERTIFICATE
ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC, a Colorado limited liability company, doing business
as The Colorado Yurt Company, manufacturer of Colorado Yurts, doing business in Montrose, Colorado, grants an eight-year non-transferable limited warranty from the time of delivery to the original owner of the Colorado Yurt, subject to the terms and conditions stated
herein.
WARRANTY TERMS, CONDITIONS AND LIMITATIONS
ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC warrants at the time of delivery that their Colorado Yurt
will be free from manufacture workmanship defects, which is defined as being only those
specific defects arising from the functions required of and in the manufacturing process of
the Colorado Yurt.
Damage that may occur to the Colorado Yurt as a result of shipping, handling, installation
and/or other actions by the owner or by entities or persons other than the manufacturer,
and not specifically classified as a manufacture defect as defined herein, are specifically
excluded from this warranty.
Should a manufacture defect existing in the workmanship or materials be discovered within
the eight-year limited warranty period, the liability of ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC
shall be limited solely and without exception to provide the materials and labor necessary to
make the repairs. This limited warranty does not include labor or repair cost of the authorized warranty claim by any third party, or any shipping, transport or travel costs incurred in
the performance of the repairs.
The final decision concerning the analysis and interpretation of any claim, remedy or settlement under this limited warranty shall be that of ADVANCE CANVAS, LLC in accordance to
the laws of the state of Colorado.
The owner or his/her authorized agent
must notify ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC in writing within thirty (30) days of
the discovery of any defects;
must correspond, communicate and cooperate with ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN,
LLC in a timely manner to correct the warranty item;
must allow Advance Canvas Design, LLC. personnel or their authorized representative access to the Colorado Yurt; and
upon request must provide pictures and/or drawings to ADVANCE CANVAS
DESIGN, LLC. of the warranty item.
37
ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC shall not in any instance be held liable for any damage
or repair arising from causes not fully within its control, including but not limited to intentional acts, negligence, natural disasters, ultra violet and /or chemical damage, contact with
incompatible materials, or third party negligence.
Domed skylights and dome hardware are specifically not warranted and are excluded from
this warranty. This limited warranty specifically is not extended to those things covered by
the material warranties granted by material manufacturers or to cover the color of such materials (The individual material manufacturer may provide an extended warranty beyond the
eight year period provided by ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC per their individual warranty terms and conditions.)
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is given or promised. The remedies stated herein
are the sole and exclusive remedies for the failure of the Colorado Yurt. There are no other
warranties of merchantability or of fitness for a particular purpose, either expressed or implied. ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC is not responsible for any liability for consequential damages, incidental damages or any damages of any kind, including but not limited to
loss of profits, damage to the Colorado Yurt, its contents, a deck or other structures.
This agreement represents our entire understanding and supersedes all previous written
and oral agreements or understandings. All understandings, remedies and agreements
must be in writing or otherwise are not enforceable.
Any dispute, claim, or controversy of any kind, whether founded in contract, tort, statutory or common law, equity or otherwise, arising under, pertaining to, or in connection with this limited warranty and/or the sale/purchase of a Colorado
Yurt, shall be resolved by binding arbitration in accordance with Colorado law, including the provisions of Colorado Revised Statutes § 13-22-201 et seq., and § 13-21-102(5). Any party who fails to submit to binding arbitration following a
lawful demand by the opposing party shall bear all costs and expenses, including reasonable attorney's fees, incurred by
the opposing party in compelling arbitration.
The customer’s signature below confirms that the customer has read and agrees with the
above Limited Warranty Certificate.
_____________________
Date
Customer’s Address
_____________________
Customer Name
_____________________________
_____________________
Customer Signature
______________________________
38
Pg. 1 of 2
ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC shall not in any instance be held liable for any
damage or repair arising from causes not fully within its control, including but not limited to intentional acts, negligence, natural disasters, ultra violet and /or chemical
damage, contact with incompatible materials, or third party negligence.
Domed skylights and dome hardware are specifically not warranted and are excluded from this warranty. This limited warranty specifically is not extended to those
things covered by the material warranties granted by material manufacturers or to
cover the color of such materials (The individual material manufacturer may provide
an extended warranty beyond the eight year period provided by ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC per their individual warranty terms and conditions.)
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is given or promised. The remedies stated
herein are the sole and exclusive remedies for the failure of the Colorado Yurt.
There are no other warranties of merchantability or of fitness for a particular purpose, either expressed or implied. ADVANCE CANVAS DESIGN, LLC is not responsible for any liability for consequential damages, incidental damages or any damages of any kind, including but not limited to loss of profits, damage to the Colorado
Yurt, its contents, a deck or other structures.
This agreement represents our entire understanding and supersedes all previous
written and oral agreements or understandings. All understandings, remedies and
agreements must be in writing or otherwise are not enforceable.
Any dispute, claim, or controversy of any kind, whether founded in contract, tort, statutory or common law,
equity or otherwise, arising under, pertaining to, or in connection with this limited warranty and/or the sale/
purchase of a Colorado Yurt, shall be resolved by binding arbitration in accordance with Colorado law, including the provisions of Colorado Revised Statutes § 13-22-201 et seq., and § 13-21-102(5). Any party who fails to
submit to binding arbitration following a lawful demand by the opposing party shall bear all costs and expenses,
including reasonable attorney's fees, incurred by the opposing party in compelling arbitration.
The customer’s signature below confirms that the customer has read and agrees
with the above Limited Warranty Certificate.