File

Getting to Jinshan and Wanli
Public Transportation
THSR/Taiwan Railway:
Travels
in
Time:
Reading the Past in Jinshan andWanli
From Taichung and Kaohsiung: Take the THSR or Taiwan Railway to Taipei
Main Station and continue by MRT or bus.
Taiwan High Speed Rail www.thsrc.com.tw
Taiwan Railways Administration www.railway.gov.tw
MRT
Take the Taipei MRT Tamsui Line to Tamsui Station; then take the Tamsui or
Keelung Bus No. 862 or 863 (via Jinshan and Keelung).
Taipei Rapid Transit Corp. www.trtc.com.tw
Bus
From Taipei Intercity Bus Terminal, take the Jinshan-bound Kuo-Kuang Bus, or
from the front of the Bureau of National Health Insurance Building on Gongyuan
Road in Taipei, take the Jinshan-bound Royal Bus. Transfer to Keelung or Tamsui
Bus and stop at scenic spots along the way (follow signs).
● Take the Keelung Bus from Keelung Railway Station or the Tamsui Bus from the
front of Tamsui MRT Station and stop at scenic spots along the way (follow signs).
Kuo-Kuang Bus 0800-010-138; www.kingbus.com.tw
Keelung Bus 0800-588-010; (02) 2433-6111; www.kl-bus.com.tw
Tamsui Bus 0800-002-277, www.csgroup-bus.com.tw
Royal Bus 0800-551-687, (02) 8295-7022, www.royalbus.com.tw
●
Taiwan Tourist Shuttle: Crown North Coast Route
Route Tamsui MRT Station (from station exit, walk right ~100 or so meters to
the front of the Kavalan Whiskey shop) ↹ Qianshui Bay Villa↹Sanzhi Visitor
Center and Gallery ↹ North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area
Administration (Baishawan) ↹ New Eighteen Gods Temple (Shimen Wedding
Plaza) ↹ Shimen Arch ↹ Teresa Teng Memorial Park (Yun Garden) ↹ Juming
Museum↹ Jinshan (Old Street)↹ Jinshan Visitor Center (Shitoushan Park)↹ Jiatou
Village (hot springs)↹Yehliu Geopark
Tickets Buses accept EasyCards or you can buy a day pass on boarding (good
Five Slow Travel Escapes on
Taiwan's Scenic North Coast
Jinshan Old Street, Jinshan Old Market, Seaside
Beauty in Jinshan,
Jinshan Cultural Tour, Wondrous Wanli, Jinshan and
Wanli Hot Springs
Built two centuries ago, Cihu Temple is known by Jinshan
Baroque Grandeur
Jinbaoli Old Street dates back to the era when the Qing
government established Tamsui Subprefecture (1723). Many
of the buildings along the street are built in a southern Fujian
style and designed as the long townhouse shops once typical
in Taiwan. Later additions and renovations bore a stronger
western stamp, such as the arched brick promenades along
the lower section of Old Street. Unfortunately most of the
baroque-style brick townhouses were demolished during
road work in 1996. The Bo'ai Pharmacy, distinguished by its
brick façade, is the only remaining Qing period building.
Next to Cihu Temple is
temple is richly adorned with art that deserves to be enjoyed
t he fa mou s Brot her s
restaurant is located
Dama ("Great Mother") and Erma ("Second Mother"). Erma,
by an important
who drifted on the sea to a cave on the shore at Yehliu, was
landmark closely tied
just eight inches tall; in later years, money was raised to carve
to the Jinbaoli River. A
a larger statue the same size as Dama. The eight-inch Mazu
c e n t u r y a g o, t h e r i v e r
was concealed inside the bigger statue and came to be known
ser ved a n i mpor t a nt t ra nspor t
as the "Mazu in Mazu." Every year, Erma makes a pilgrimage
function in these parts, with sampan boats plying the route
"home" to t he c ave i n Yeh l iu i n what ha s become a n
from the estuary to the town market and docking at a small
important celebration in the Jinshan, Shimen, and Wanli
pier near where the Brothers Cafeteria now stands. During its
areas.
years when it was navigable by boats, the river was also used
by residents for washing clothes, playing, and fishing, adding
Must-try Treats along the Old Street
to the riverside life of the town.
Jinshan Guang'an Temple ‧
Jinbaoli Duck Meat
specialty products and dishes are
Legendary Market
another visitor draw on Jinbaoli Old
Street. One local favorite is the shop
Juxing Hall was
outside the Bo'ai Pharmacy selling
1.Freeway 1 to Keelung Interchange → Prov. Hwy 2 (toward Wanli) to scenic sites.
2.Freeway 3 to Jijin Interchange → Prov. Hwy 2 (toward Wanli) to scenic sites.
3.Yangmingshan-Jinshan Hwy (Prov. Hwy 2A)→ Jinshan → Prov. Hwy 2 to scenic sites.
4.Tamsui → Prov. Hwy 2 eastbound to scenic sites.
5.Keelung City → Prov. Hwy 2 westbound to scenic sites.
originally built in the Qing
chewy hand-made tapioca balls. The
period by set tlers
nearby bakery and Ayu Foods are
from Zhangzhou to
old-time establishments specializing
worship the god
in sesame puff cakes. Other visitor
Kaizhang Shengwang,
f a vo r i t e s i n c lu d e G u o's Pe a n u t
a statue of whom they
Candy, kitty-corner from the duck-
broug ht f rom t hei r
meat stall, and the fresh sweet potato
Add No. 33-6, Xiayuankeng, Demao Village, Shimen District, New Taipei City, 253
Tel (02) -8635-5100; Fax (02) -2636-6675
Website www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw
homeland in mainland China. When Li Kuang-hsiung, the
ice cream sold by an old-time shop
owner of Jinbaoli Duck Meat, first opened his noodle and
here. The most representative of
Jinshan Visitor Center (Yehliu Service Station)
duck meat stall nearby, his customers would eat their food at
Jinshan's specialt y treats are the
Add No. 171-2, Huanggang Road, Jinshan District, New Taipei City, 208
Tel (02) -2498-8980; Fax (02) -2498-5290
t he temple. A s bu si nes s boomed, t he temple cou ld n't
sweet potatoes and the many types
Yehliu Visitor Center
accommodate the crowds, forcing Li to open a shop nearby on
of delicious and healthy sweet potato
Add No. 167-1, Gangdong Road, Wanli District, New Taipei City, 207
Tel (02) 2492-2016; Fax (02) -2492-4519
Cafeteria. The
There are two Mazu goddesses enshrined at the temple:
Apart from architecture, unique
Car
Across the Tide of History:
The Jinbaoli River
locals as the "Big Temple." From foundation to roof, the
Snackers' Paradise
for unlimited travel on the day of ticket purchase).
Telephones Keelung Bus: (02) 2432-3185 Tamsui Bus: (02) 2621-3340
North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area Administration: (02) 8635-5100
Brothers Cafeteria ‧ Jinbaoli River Landmark
in detail.
The Old Townhouses of Jinbaoli
Administration Office (Baishawan Visitor Center)
Jinshan and Wanli
Hot Springs
Cihu Temple in Jinbaoli
Jinshan Old Street
North Coast and Guanyinshan
National Scenic Area Administration
AD
Eight-Inch Mazu from the Sea Caves of Yehliu
the Old Street.
cakes sold here.
Jinshan
Old Market
Jinshan's Snack Kitchen
Old Market Flavor +
New Market Seafood
B efore d aw n, t he ma rket is bat hed i n t he l ig ht of
fluorescent lamps. Customers shuttle in and out of the
market's more than half-century-old soy milk shop, the
go-to breakfast place for locals in the know.
Passing the soy milk shop one arrives at the heart of the
old market, marked by a string of pork stalls and grocery
stores that are said to be 70 or 80 years old. The groceries
sell an amazing variety of goods, including Southeast Asian
specialties at the grocer behind the pork stalls. A few steps
further on is a shop with bamboo baskets of tofu and plastic
bags of thick flavorful soy milk.
Complementing the traditional character of the old
market, the stalls at the new market focus on seafood and
processed foods. Many of the shops here buy fish fresh from
Soaking in Mineral-rich Volcanic Springs
Dayoukeng Huangxi Hot Springs
The coastal districts of Jinshan and Wanli are blessed with
n a t u r a l b e a ut y, fe r t i le f a r m l a nd, a nd h ig h-qu a l it y
geothermal springs sourced from the Datun Volcano Group.
The hot springs of Jinshan and Wanli are fed by sulfurrich water that f lows from the sulfur mining areas of
Sikuangping and Gengziping and emerges as the Huangxi
Hot Springs near Dayoukeng.
The springs were first discovered cent uries ago by
Ketagalan villagers in Jiatou, who found the spring water to
the harbor. In September and October, one can find plump
Seeking Out the "Three Treasures of Jinshan"
and fairly priced silver anchovies from Huanggang Fishing.
Taro, Sweet Potato, and Water Bamboo
Jinshan Market is a good place to hunt for treasure, specifically the district's three "treasure"
farm products: sweet potatoes (in season from August to October), water bamboo (October to
November), and taro (August to November). Autumn visitors have a chance to find all three
together among the market's bustling stalls.
Local produce and seafood can also be bought at the stalls
Historical Contours of a Neighborhood
Old Public Market +
New Market on Zhongshan Road
Jinshan is famous for its sweet potatoes and water bamboo. Many local small farmers pick
Located next to the well-known Jinshan Duck Meat shop by
water bamboo fresh daily and sell it in bundles in Jinshan Market. Limited yields mean that the
Guang'an Temple, Jinshan Market is divided into old and new
sweet potatoes and water bamboo can be hard to find; however, the delicious local Tiaoshi
sections. The Old Market (the Jinshan District Old Public
taro can easily hold its own against this duo.
Retail Market) is accessed from Jinbaoli Old Street and extends
have a curative effect on wounds and skin disease. With the
roughly from Fude Street (by the Tapariya Japanese restaurant)
Japa nese occ upat ion, Japa n's hot-spri ng c u lt u re wa s
to the Old Street section by Aunt A-man's bakery. The most
introduced to Taiwan and took root as a popular form of
famous shop bills itself as an ice shop but actually sells noodles
leisure and recreation.
in the winter and ice desserts in the summer.
The entrance to the new market is on Zhongshan Road by
the alley leading to Jinshan Duck Meat. It stands opposite
Xinyi Road, known as "Watermelon Lane" due to the old-time
fruit stand located here.
along the market periphery. Most of the fish is sourced from
the nearby ports of Fuji, Shuiwei, Huanggang, and Yehliu.
The produce here is mostly locally grown and seasonal,
including the "Three Treasures of Jinshan": taro, sweet
potato, and water bamboo.
Golden Spider Lilies + Twin Candlesticks
Seaside Beauty
in Jinshan
Jinshan
Cultural Tour
Shitoushan Park
Shitoushan Park has a
diverse ecolog y and
woodla nds that have
thankfully been protected
with the help of past
military controls on access
to the area. Recent restoration efforts have further contributed
to the seasonally changing wonders that await along the trail,
including the occasionally sighted blooms of the Taiwan lily
and golden spider lily.
The ecological restoration area near Zhongzheng Pavilion
presents several autumn flowering natives of the North Coast.
Century-old Fishing Harbor + Fish Trail
Huanggang‧Yulu Historic Trail
Fortress in a Shroud of Mystery
The Army Camp of Shitoushan
Among them, the golden spider lily blooms around the months
of September and October. The flower has an unusual quality
whereby its blooms and leaves never appear together.
Legend of Koxinga Adrift at Sea
Chengtian Temple
Cheng t ia n Temple is a
Jumping Stones on the Coast
with
Tiaoshi Coast, Shazhu Bay, Youngdoor,
and Jinshan Tiaoshi Cafe
exquisitely carved facade
The ocean views along the coast stretching north from
m ajor c ent er of fa it h i n
Huanggang,
Jinshan is located at
The fortifications at
Spring brings the Taiwan lilies, which adorn the cliff sides
the foothills of the
Sh itou sha n d ate back to t he
of Shitoushan with their elegant and fragrant white blooms at
Datun volcano group,
Japa nese occ upat ion period.
this time. Many coastal plants can also be found here,
whose abundant sulfur
After the Russo-Japanese War
deposits have given this
erupted, the Japanese established
area a reputation as the
a fortified command post in the northern Taiwan city of Keelung.
islets formed by tectonic motion six million years ago and
"l a nd of s u l f u r." T he
The coastal fortifications were subsequently expanded and
shaped by natural erosion to resemble a sculpted work of art
mineral is found in the Huang ("Sulfur") River that flows
strengthened during the 40-year period between the outbreak of
in the sea.
through Jinshan District, giving the steam its name, and
the Sino-Japanese War and World War II in the Pacific, including
resident Chiang Teng-wang arranged for the head to be
has also lent its name to Huanggang, a century-old fishing
the construction of several military facilities on the strategically
enshrined in Chengtian Temple. Sinologist Chang Ying
There are also plenty of cafés along the coast from where
port at the river estuary. In earlier years, the fishermen
located Shitoushan Cape west of Keelung, including barracks,
later inspected the head and concluded that it was a
you can enjoy the scenery. Two of the more popular ones
here used the local sulfur for a unique form of fishing
sentry posts, tunnels, defense trenches, artillery positions, and
likeness of Koxinga, or Zheng Cheng-gong, the pirate/
are Tiaoshi Youngdoor (by the sea) and Anonymous café
called "leaping fire." The fishing boats would burn sulfur
blockhouses. Tunnels run throughout the cape, with the longest,
patriot who drove the Dutch from Taiwan in 1662.
(perched in the foothills).
s l a b s to c re a t e hu ge f l a me s t h a t wou ld a t t r a c t t he
Guangwu Tunnel, measuring 316.5 meters.
including sea mango, beach naupaka, and screw pine.
At the trail end, one can see the famous Twin Candlesticks,
totems and rich in lore.
One of the stories
Many of the people along the coast here once lived from
con nec ted to t he temple
the sea; when they went to fish or collect seaweed, they had
involves the head of a wooden statue. The head is thought
to get to the water by jumping from rock to rock. This
to have floated from Nan'an in mainland China to Jinshan
practice gave rise to the name "Tiaoshi," meaning "jumping
after a flood. The identity of the unfortunate statute
on the rocks."
remained a mystery until 1955. That year, Huanggang
la rgest temple i n t he a rea, a f ter Ci hu Temple. T he
Huanggang is the starting point of the Yulu (“ Fish
North Coast, and so was maintained as a military stronghold even
Huanggang fishermen come here to pray for protection on
Road ”) Trail. During the Japanese occupation, the fishing
after Taiwan's retrocession to the Republic of China. Armed
the seas and a good catch. The temple's interior and
boats would unload their catch at the harbor to sell. If
forces were stationed on the cape, which was closed to the public
exterior relief work highlights the values of filial piety,
there was still fish left over, porters would carry it over
until the lifting of martial law in 1987. Even after that the
integrity, and righteousness in auspicious words and motifs,
the trail to Shilin and other markets.
military maintained a base on the cape, and access was controlled.
among them a dragon and tiger wall block.
Bao'an Temple (Wanli)
There are three major temples in Yehliu: Bao'an
Temple (dedicated to the deity Kaizhang Shengwang),
Renhe Temple (General Zhou Cang), and Chaotian
Yehliu Geopark．Yehliu Fishing Port．Guihou Fishing Harbor
Geological Wonders + Sea-fresh Flavors
The route from Taipei to Wanli passes through a scenic coastal
Bay. It is another year-round magnet for surfers.
another attraction
the century-old Yehliu Cleansing of the Harbor Festival,
along Provincial
an annual religious event steeped in local legend.
Highway 2.
up daily from
story begins with a wayward sailing ship that drifted
about t wo to
into to the waters near Yehliu. Some locals rowed out
three p.m. between
to the large ship only to discover it was completely
the 35 and 39 km points
House is one of the most intact examples of southern Fujianese
deserted; all that was found were a few dozen China
of the highway, serving coffee with an expansive sea view.
architecture on Taiwan's North Coast.
Li Chi-feng Historic House and
Old Jinshan Airfield
Located in Qingquan Village, the Li Chi-feng Historic
fir logs, two large slabs of limestone, and a statue of a
The coastal views and mountain atmosphere have made
The estate is fronted by a half-moon pool, backed by
god. T he loca ls were completely ba ff led. A f ter
Jinshan a magnet for artists. The hillside Juming Museum is an
orchards, and designed elsewhere with feng shui principles
discussing the matter, they decided to use the timber
expansive park-like art venue, with outdoor displays of works
t h o u g h t t o b r i n g t h e o w n e r w e a l t h. T h e r o o f i n g i s
and limestone from the ship, along with local coral
from the Tai Chi and Living World series of sculptor Ju Ming.
distinguished by its swallowtail ridge, a style that was off-limits
stone, to build a simple temple to worship the statue
An installation of queuing statues is a popular place for
to the average person and highlighted the owner's power and
and seek the god's blessing and protection.
snapshots here.
achievement. The roof is also exquisitely adorned with ceramic
including the famous Queen's Head rock and formations
event upgraded to national cultural asset status in 2008. The
resembling a Candle Rock, ice cream cones, and Fairy's Slipper,
festival involves a series of complex rituals. On the morning of
to name a few of the fairytale-like scenes waiting to delight.
piano that actually sounds when walked on.
Homecoming of a Goddess
Jinshan’s Cihu Temple‧Green Bay
Cihu Temple was built on Jinbaoli Street to enshrine the "Eight-Inch Mazu" (named
for the size of the statue), who was originally discovered in a sea cave at Yehliu
Geopark. Each year on the 16th day of the
fourth lunar month, a day when the tide is
especially low, the goddess returns to her
the god through the community. The sea cleansing patrol and
home in Yehliu with a procession of the
harbor cleansing ritual are two of the highlight ceremonies.
faithful trailing behind.
During the harbor patrol, strong young men hoist the
Wanli is home to Green Bay, whose beach is a magnet for summer visitors coming
palanquin carrying Kaizhang Shengwang, make a 20-meter
for seaside recreation. The bay is also a popular spot for skimboarding, attracting
run, and leap into the sea, braving icy waters and the chill
winter wind to bring the event to a climax.
A Mandarin's Mansion
Jiaqing reign of the Qing Dynasty. Its supernatural
The Yehliu Cleansing of the Harbor Festival is a century-old
old restaurant serving simple dishes packed with flavor.
use of natural light, collects rainwater, and takes pains in other
T h e va n s s e t
infused with artistic touches, evident particularly in the giant
cleanse the harbor, a ritual passage through fire, and a tour by
spared the original old trees in its construction. It also makes
Bao'an Temple was built over a century ago, in the
final resting place of Taiwanese singer Teresa Teng. The park is
seafood eateries near Yehliu Fishing Port is a more than 20-year-
B ud d h i s t c e nt e r
Mobile cafés are
Temple (Mazu). Kaizhang Shengwang is closely tied to
the 10th day of the 10th lunar month. The harbor cleansing festival is the most distinctive of the three events.
cleansing patrol, prayers for bountiful fish catches, a ritual to
S h e n g Ye n , t h e
Mobile Cafés, Juming Museum,
and Teresa Teng Memorial Park
(Yun Garden)
are a number of fascinatingly shaped rock formations here,
harbors serve up just about every type of seafood. Among the
careful
planning of Master
front.
Yehliu Cleansing of the Harbor Festival
of firecrackers, folk performances, prayers for blessings, sea
the
pray at Guanyin Hall or meditate at the tranquility pond its
The nearby Teresa Teng Memorial Park (Yun Garden) is the
seafood. The restaurants at Yehliu, Dong'ao, and Guihou fishing
of 16 years. Under
offered from Building II, where, on the top level, visitors can
celebration of Kaizhang Shengwang's birthday on the 15th day of the second lunar month, and the Gratitude for Peace ceremony on
Shengwang is carried in a procession accompanied by barrages
built over a period
The center's gray, black, and blue colors complement the
eroded landforms, strikingly presented at Yehliu Geopark. There
Visitors to the area can also feast on some of Taiwan's freshest
Dha r ma Dr u m
Mountain was
surrounding greenery to calming effect. Guided tours are
landscape scented by the sea. Yehliu is announced by its ocean-
the Lantern Festival, a palanquin bearing the god Kaozhang
Dharma Drum Mountain
ways to live in harmony with nature.
Bao'an Temple hosts several annual events, including the Yehliu Cleansing of the Harbor Festival during the Lantern Festival, the
Divine Blessing to Dispel the Darkness
An Earthly Pure Land in Harmony with Nature
Art and Coffee off Provincial Highway 2
A Ship Deserted, Except for a God
Wondrous Wanli
One of the best-known attractions in this area is Shazhu
Chengtian Temple has grown to become the second
Shitoushan provided an excellent vantage for monitoring the
phototactic scaled sardines into their nets.
downtown Jinshan to the Tiaoshi coast are hard to beat.
Photo by SHIU JIAN LIN
hosts of young people seeking the thrill of riding the huge waves here.
appliqué designs. The house is still occupied today, but the
residents welcome unobtrusive visits to its exterior.
The area near the residence once served as a Japanese army
airfield. The facility was built with extremely crude tools, and
the human-powered cement wheels used to pack the runway
are still here.