Seattle Gay News Issue 38, Volume 40, September 21, 2012

Seattle Gay News
by Andrew Collins
SGN Contributing Writer
Mt. McKinley
Ice cave at Juneau’s Menden
hall Glacier
On your way to the peninsula,
consider tacking on a night or two in
tiny Girdwood, just 40 miles from
Anchorage, spending the night at
the elegant Alyeska Resort (www.
see alaska page 14
ben hattenbach
Visit the
Kenai Peninsula
With relatively easy access to An-
ll in s
an dr ew co
Drink Alaskan
craft beer
What Alaska lacks in Gay nightlife, it more than makes up for in
quirky, offbeat bars with diverse,
generally Gay-friendly clientele.
Some of the best of these hangouts
are craft-beer pubs, of which Anchorage has the greatest number. A
few blocks apart in the city’s downtown, Glacier BrewHouse and
Humpy’s both serve first-rate beer
and great food, and in midtown, the
Bear Tooth Theatrepub and Grill,
and nearby Moose’s Tooth Pub
& Pizzeria, both popular with the
LGBT community, likewise serve
outstanding food and beer.
In Juneau, the venerable Alaskan
Brewing Co. is one of the foremost
craft-beer makers in the entire country, and although there’s no brewpub
on site, you can stop by for a tour
and tastings. The company’s beer
Explore Denali
National Park
Visitors to Alaska’s iconic wilderness park are sometimes overwhelmed by the sheer immensity
of this six-million-acre wilderness
crowned by North America’s highest peak, Mt. McKinley (20,320
feet). The park is ideally explored
over the course of a few days, but
even with only one full day it’s possible to cover a remarkable amount
of ground. There’s one road into
the park, and beyond the first 15
miles only official buses are permitted.
Options for touring the park
by bus include guided tours and
more flexible and less expensive
“hop-on/hop-off” shuttles. A
practical one-day strategy is taking a shuttle bus to the stunning
and relatively new Eielson Visitor Center, which is 66 miles
into the park and accesses two
short but very scenic hikes with
Denali peak views. The trip to
the center takes at least four
hours each way, but the ride itself is part of the fun – guides
frequently comment on the
scenery and stop to allow passengers to snap photos of wildlife, which can include caribou,
Dall sheep, golden eagles, moose,
wolves, and grizzly bears.
chorage, a slew of engaging towns
and attractions, and rugged, spectacular scenery that takes in everything from massive
glaciers to icy fjords to
dense forests, this peninsula – about half the
size of South Carolina –
is ideal for road-tripping.
The top towns for visitors
are the artsy and progressive fishing town of Homer (the farthest from Anchorage, at 220 miles); scenic Seward, the gateway
to Kenai Fjords National
Park; and secluded Whittier, situated at the end of
Passage Canal, which links
to Prince William Sound.
You can also forgo driving
and take the Alaska Scenic
Railroad from Anchorage to
Seward or Whittier, enjoying
some close-up glacier views
along the way.
and rew coll ins
I spent 15 days touring Alaska
(www.travelalaska.com) with a
friend earlier this summer, my second extended trip to the country’s
largest state in the past three years.
My previous trip included a memorable Holland America Line (www.
hollandamerica.com) cruise through
the Inside Passage, followed by a
four-day land trip north through Anchorage and Talkeetna. On this most
recent adventure, I overnighted in
eight different towns, from Juneau
and Skagway in the southeast to
Fairbanks in the east-central interior.
Even having jumped around the
state a bit, I’ve only just scratched
the surface in terms of getting to
know this state, which is nearly
four times the size of California.
But I have come up with a good
list of must-see activities or places
I strongly recommend experiencing. Here, in no particular order, are
eight Alaska essentials.
is widely available at bars all over
Alaska. Also in the southeast, the
funky and friendly Skagway Brewing Co. is a great place to sip Spruce
Tip Blonde (a locally distinctive
beer flavored with hand-picked Sitka spruce tips) and munch on tasty
bar food. Fairbanks is home to another terrific brewpub, the Silver
Gulch, which is as highly regarded
for its malty Pick Axe Porter as for
such delicious fare as beer-braised
pork ribs and IPA fish-and-chips.
Issue 38, Volume 40, September 21, 2012
by Jessica Price
SGN A&E Writer
www.greenrubino.com
At 166 miles, a road trip to Lake Chelan
is close enough for an impromptu weekend getaway, while just far enough for a
drastic change of scenery. Once you pass
Leavenworth and Stevens Pass on Highway 2 (or Snoqualmie Pass and Ellensburg if you’re taking I-90), the terrain
quickly transitions to dry and dramatic,
bringing to mind the understated beauty
of the Texas hill country or New Mexico.
Scenic roads cut through canyons of sagebrush and basalt; scrubby vegetation and
long grasses gently wave as the Columbia
River winds in and out of view. Orchards
and vineyards dot the hillsides continuing
into the small town of Chelan and up to
nearby Manson (the Lake Chelan Valley
is home to nearly 20 wineries and counting).
As you turn onto Lakeshore Road, the
picturesque waters of Lake Chelan’s
southern tip slide into view. The largest
natural lake in the state, Lake Chelan begins in the desert and ends in the middle
of the Cascades, 55 miles north. In summer, Chelan enjoys plentiful sun and clear
blue skies, while in winter the small town
lights up, transitioning from lakeside vacation mecca to cozy seasonal getaway
minus the ever-present gray of Seattle.
Chelan boasts 300 days of sunshine per
year, a tantalizing prospect for those of
us who prefer our off-seasons to be a little
brighter.
At the heart of Chelan’s unique charm is
a thriving and exceptionally friendly town
center. Dating back to the 1880s, Chelan’s
main thoroughfare, Woodin Avenue, was
recently designated an accredited “National Main Street,” and residents take
pride in their close-knit community inclusive of artisans and family-owned farms.
You won’t find chain stores along Woodin
(though there are two large grocery stores
and one Starbucks in town), and residents
prefer to get coffee or healthy groceries
from shops on the main street. As Chelan is surrounded by natural beauty, it is
known for a multitude of outdoor recreational activities in both summer and win-
facing rooms have spectacular views no
matter the season – you can watch the sun
set over the water from your private patio
while mountains loom in the distance.
The exceptionally friendly staff is happy
to make reservations for dinner at the popular, moderately upscale 2nd Floor Pub &
Veranda or for a relaxing massage at the
River Room Spa just across the street. A
WHERE TO STAY
The 170-room, Gay-friendly Campbell’s longtime pillar of Chelan tourism, the RivResort (104 W. Woodin Ave., 1-800-553- er Room offers a tantalizing array of body
8225, www.campbellsresort.com) is the treatments and services, as well as private
ter. When snow blankets the valley, skiing,
snowshoeing, and snowmobiling are available on forest trails not far away. If outdoor
sports aren’t for you, Chelan’s year-long
events calendar has something for everyone,
including wineries, music, art festivals, harvest and winter festivals, and shopping.
Lake Chelan Winterfest
oldest, best-known resort in Chelan, situated right on the shore of the lake. Campbell’s is family-owned and operated – five
generations have extended their hospitality in Chelan since 1901. Six major renovations have kept the resort updated with all
the best travel amenities, including pools,
hot tubs, beach bar, fitness center, and boat
moorage. The clean and comfortable rooms
are designed to resemble personal vacation
cottages with hand-carved driftwood chairs
and lake memorabilia in each room. Lake-
yoga instruction for parties of four or more.
The welcoming staff strives to see to every
guest’s needs and will happily answer any
question about the town’s history.
Though without direct beach access, the
Gay-friendly Lake House (407 N. Lake
St., 1-877-293-5982, www.lakehousechelan.com) is another option, featuring stylish one- and three-room condo rentals with
perks to sweeten the deal such as full kitchens, king-size beds, flat-screen TVs, electric
fireplaces, and private decks. During the
off-season, many accommodations offer
discounted rates and winter packages with
added perks such as winery tours or customized outdoor activities.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
At the heart of Chelan’s main street is a
multi-purpose coffee house, The Vogue
(117 E. Woodin Ave., www.thevoguelounge.com). In the morning you can find a
fresh-baked pastry and latte worthy of any
Seattle coffee connoisseur, while perusing the Vogue’s selection of house-made
sauces and pickled vegetables. Bottles of
regional wines fill baskets, and shelves
are stocked with olives, chocolates, and a
selection of microbrews. A notice board
features flyers for local art shows and community events. By night, The Vogue transforms into a wine bar buzzing with activity and often featuring local music. The
atmosphere is laid-back, slow-paced, and
welcoming.
A few steps from Woodin Avenue is Local Myth Pizza (122 S. Emerson St., http://
localmythpizza.com). The fresh green salad (which comes with a bite-sized “minicalzone”) was dressed with delectable
house-made balsamic vinaigrette, and the
thin-crust pizzas are healthy or indulgent,
depending on your preference. The pies are
just the right size for sustaining yourself
after a quick stroll around the riverwalk.
Local Myth has served Chelan for over 15
years, and it’s no mystery why they are a
favorite of visitors and locals alike.
Other foodie stops include Lake Chelan
Cheese at Lake Chelan Winery in nearby
Manson (224 E. Wapato Way, www.lakechelancheese.com) and the charming Sunshine Farm Market, which you’ll notice
as you drive into town. The market features an extensive array of organic fruits
and vegetables grown on the farm, various
kinds of local honey (the lavender was my
favorite), plus lotions, soaps, and handmade gifts. Seasonal “you pick” schedules
for cherries, peaches, apples, and pumpkins are available – just ask. If you’re in
Chelan for more than a day or two, or are
perhaps renting a condo for an extended
stay, Bear Foods (125 E. Woodin Ave.), a
natural market and creperie, is a one-stop
www.greenrubino.com
2
Seattle Gay News
September 21, 2012
Celebrating 39 Years!
www.g reenr ubino. com
E
xperience awe-inspiring views of Hood
Canal, Mt Rainier, the snow-capped
Olympic Mountains and prime shellfish
beaches. Fresh oysters, clams, shrimp and crab;
the shellfish Hood Canal is famous for. Make
your reservation today and let us assist you in
getting the perfect location for your next reunion,
retreat or romantic getaway. Easy commute from
Seattle , approx. 2 hours from Bainbridge ferry or
one hour from Kingston ferry.
vacationhomesonhoodcanal.com
888.796.3450
Lake Chelan is wine country
shop for healthy groceries.
Vin du Lac Winery (105 Hwy 150, www.
vindulac.com) and its tasting room and
bistro are well-known and were named
“Northwest Winery of the Year” in 2010
by Wine Press Northwest. The bistro offers
full-service lunch and dinner under the direction of Chef Francis St. Dennis, and the
view is sublime from the patio tables. Like
everyone in Chelan, the staff takes pride
in the natural beauty of their surroundings
and provides many locally sourced foods
and beverages. Stop by for a tasting or a
souvenir bottle (I’d recommend the affordable 2010 Barrel Select Cuvee Rouge or the
award-winning 2007 Barrel Select Merlot).
Wineries are plentiful in the valley – there
are no fewer than 10 within the city itself, all
following the lake’s southern tip. A walking tour takes you to a few others, such as
Nefarious Cellars (www.nefariouscellars.
com), Tunnel Hill Winery (www.tunnelhillwinery.com), and Tsillan Cellars Winery (www.tsillancellars.com). These three
are situated in a row as you approach downtown Chelan, so walking back to your hotel
after a little refined indulgence won’t be a
problem.
SHOPPING & ENTERTAINMENT
Rediscovering small-town life is easy
in Chelan. Quaint boutiques and galleries
feature works by local artisans and craftsmen. Bon Sejour Home (210 E. Woodin
Ave.) is bursting with irresistible finds that
make you want to revitalize your living
space – everything smells divine and looks
impeccable. Textiles, candles, fragrance
diffusers, and other home décor items are
well-stocked and moderately priced. If
you’re fantasizing about redecorating back
home, the lifestyle store Columbia Furniture (216 E. Woodin Ave.) carries modern
furnishings not unlike Crate and Barrel, and
is well worth a visit.
Browse current titles at Riverwalk Books
(116 E. Woodin Ave.), a small shop whose
mission statement is “to be the quintessential community bookstore.” The staff
believes that where you spend your money
affects the community you live in, and they
strive to offer service and selection putting
their love of reading and community before anything else. Bestsellers, independent
titles, and specialty books are carefully chosen for discerning readers.
Another hub of Chelan life is the historic
Ruby Theatre (135 E. Woodin Ave.), believed to be the oldest-running cinema in
Washington State. The movies are refreshingly inexpensive (adults $8), and usually
there is just one feature film daily at 7 p.m.,
with movies switching out weekly.
SEASONAL ATTRACTIONS
This year’s Lake Chelan Crush (www.
lakechelanwinevalley.com) takes place over
two weekends, October 6–7 and October
13–14. The wineries of the Lake Chelan
Wine Growers Association come together
to offer short trips between their locations,
allowing the curious to witness the process
of grape harvesting. Tastings and food pairings are on offer while you mingle with
winemakers. It’s rumored that a little grapestomping a la I Love Lucy is sometimes encouraged. Just in time to break up the postholiday doldrums, the annual Lake Chelan
Winterfest (www.lakechelanwinterfest.
com) takes place over two weekends in January. The valley is transformed into a festive
winter celebration featuring ice artwork, the
annual Fire and Ice torchlight parade, sleigh
rides, and many other snow-inspired activities. Warm up in the Ice Lounge with music,
a bowl of chili, and drinks by the fire.
Check the Washington Department of
Transportation for information on traveling through the passes (www.wsdot.wa.gov),
keeping in mind that not every place shuts
down with a little snow the way Seattle
does. Chelan is a short, scenic road trip that
will refresh you with its charming, smalltown spirit.
Visit us online www.sgn.org
September 21, 2012
Seattle Gay News
3
by Eric Andrews-Katz
SGN A&E Writer
MEMPHIS: THE MUSICAL
5TH AVENUE THEATRE
Through October 7
Bryan Fenkart is currently touring
in the Tony Award-winning musical,
Memphis. Directly from Broadway,
where he understudied the lead role,
Fenkart plays Huey, a man different
from his own persona in many ways.
But there is one thing they have in common – they both have music in their
souls. As Memphis returns to Seattle
(where it debuted in 2009), we caught up
with the man and his music.
Andrews-Katz: Who were your earliest influences in becoming a performer?
Fenkart: I’ve always been interested
in singing and writing my own music, so
I’d have to say Billy Joel. He was only
one between the Garfunkels and the
Springsteens … people who sang stories
and told stories with their music.
Andrews-Katz: What was the first inclination that you wanted to become a
singer?
Fenkart: Music has always had an effect on me. I never had piano lessons or
anything like that, but I taught myself
because music moved me so much. It was
something that was always a part of my
life.
Andrews-Katz: How did you pick the
songs for your debut CD, Imperfect Man?
Fenkart: I picked songs that were
about not being perfect – songs that made
the singer want to improve. It was a reflection of who I was at the time. I’m not
a perfect person and the music should reflect that.
Andrews-Katz: What is the most important thing you learned between the
premiere of your debut album and your
second, Simple & Grey?
Fenkart: I learned about how to continue recognizing that I am not perfect.
The second album was titled the way it
was because I wanted it to (again) reflect
me at this time. I tend to over-analyze
things and sometimes find myself envious
of other people who seem to accept everything so easily. It’s about continuing the
journey of learning who you are.
Andrews-Katz: How did you get interested in the stage?
Fenkart: Actually I wasn’t one of
those kids who grew up with the
theater. I got into it because
I lost a bet when I was a
4
Seattle Gay News
September 21, 2012
Paul Kolnik
Bryan Fenkart in Memphis
Celebrating 39 Years!
sophomore in high school and had to audition. It changed me and I fell in love with
it. Not only the instant gratification that you
feel as a performer, but with, again, being
able to tell a story with music.
Andrews-Katz: What was your audition
for Memphis like?
Fenkart: My agency called me in to audition as an understudy for Huey, the lead
role. I was asked to sing “Memphis is in
me!” and to hit the high D at the end, like
Chad Kimball [the original lead] did in the
song. I thought they were kidding, but now
with practice I can do it. I had fun with the
audition. The character Huey is nothing like
me, so I can think out of the box – and while
it can intimidate me for the same reasons, it
gives me a lot of freedom.
Andrews-Katz: Since Memphis is your
Broadway debut, do you have more of an
interest now in performing theater shows?
Fenkart: Definitely. I’d love to do Roger
in Rent if it ever came back again, or the
Guy in Once. I’d love to work with Jason
Robert Brown – I think the man is a genius.
Andrews-Katz: If you could do any role,
regardless of gender, what role would it be
and why?
Fenkart: It’s going to sound strange, but
the Guy in Once. I’d seen John Carney [the
writer and director of the film] perform
once, years before the film ever came out
and really liked it. Then when the movie
came out it quickly became one of my favorites. I could do that – I can be that guy
who plays guitar and writes his own music.
Then they made a musical out of it and that
was that. I’d love to play that role.
Memphis: The Musical premiered at Seattle’s 5th Avenue Theatre in January 2009.
It moved to Broadway on September 23,
2009, and ran for more than 1165 performances, closing last month. The musical
deals with segregation in 1950s Tennessee,
centering on a Caucasian radio DJ and an
African-American singer with whom he
gets romantically involved. Memphis won
the Tony Award for Best Musical in 2010.
E
T
O
V
O
T
REGISTER
WWW.MYVOTE.WA.GOV
Visit us online www.sgn.org
September 21, 2012
Seattle Gay News
5
by Jerry L. Peerson
SGN Contributing Writer
airports. When flying
Condor internationally, definitely consider
upgrading to Premium
Economy Class. For as little as €150 extra, you’ll get
a generous amount of leg
room, premium meals with
free alcoholic beverages,
a complimentary toiletry
bag filled with everything
from socks to toothbrushes, and the ability to scoot
past long lines by checking in at an exclusive ticket counter. Condor also
has flights between several other German cities, and other locations
throughout Europe.
When heading to Berlin (or any other major
city in Germany), Rail
Europe (www.raileurope.com) is your best
bet for hassle-free, efficient, and scenic
service. You
will gaze
in
awe
at Germany’s picturesque countryside as the
train passes dozens of historic
villages, pastures, rivers and
hills on your
6
Seattle Gay News
September 21, 2012
GETTING ACQUAINTED –
SCHÖNEBERG
Today, Gay life permeates all corners
of the city, from alternative, multi-cultural Kreuzberg and hip Friedrichshain to
Schöneberg, the historical heart of Gay
Berlin and the district that still hosts the
highest density of Gay establishments.
During the Roaring Twenties, artists and
writers from around the globe flocked to
Schöneberg to immerse themselves in the
flourishing Gay and Lesbian scene. Christopher Isherwood, the author of Cabaret,
was among the countless innovators who
came to Berlin, lured by its relaxed, accepting, and exuberant atmosphere.
Berlin relished its spotlight as a European mecca for Gay culture until
the early 1930s, when Hitler began exerting his power across
Germany and the flamboyant lifestyle enjoyed
by Berlin’s Gay inhabitants came to a screeching halt. The Eldorado
was one of the first Gay
nightclubs to be shut
down by the Nazi regime
on March 1, 1933, and four
days later most of the other successful Gay bars in town were
also closed. A supermarket now
occupies the former site of the
Eldorado, but a commemorative display pays homage to
the historic nightspot. A new
club under the same name
has since opened down the
street.
Anyone wanting to stay
in Schöneberg can’t get
more centrally located than
Tom’s Hotel (www.tomshotel.de). For €79 (about
$100), Tom’s offers comfortable rooms with high
Einar Samuelsson
Fernsehturm Tower
Pe er so n
Je rr y L.
ARRIVAL
If one desires to tour multiple cities in
Germany, the most affordable option for
There are a handful of cities through- direct flights
out history that have been the
epicenter of influence, envy, and eminence. Most rise and
fall, never to realize
the same prominence again, but Berlin is without doubt
an exception to this.
Since its inception in
the Middle Ages, Berlin’s stamp on European and world history
has run deep. While
the city’s infamous role
in both World Wars is
well known, it has had
an equally pervasive effect in cultural, artistic,
and societal movements
across Europe and beyond. The once Prussian
capital was a center of
the Enlightenment, helping bring Europe out of
the Dark Ages with revoall
lery Berlin W
lutionary innovations in
Eastside Gal
knowledge, music, and art.
In the 1920s it became a
from
hotbed of gender-bending
Seattle is Condor Air (www.
counter-culture, and since the fall of the condor.com), an economical subsidiary of
Berlin Wall it has continually reinvented Lufthansa. The airline offers seasonal nonitself as artists and intellectuals (many of stop service between Seattle and Frankfurt
them Gay) spread their creativity through- – Germany’s financial hub and one
out the city. To begin planning your trip to of the world’s busiest
the German capital, visit http://www.visitberlin.de/en.
way to Berlin. Whether arriving in Berlin
by air (generally at Tegel Airport) or by
rail, the most central place to start your
experience is the Hauptbahnhof, the central transportation hub. It is supplied with
visitor information and public transport
options to other parts of the city. For savings throughout the city, be sure to pick up
a Berlin Welcome Card (www.visitberlin.
de), which offers discounts on transportation, museums, activities, food, and lodging.
Celebrating 39 Years!
ceilings, free WiFi, and shelves of complimentary bottled water for your post-nightout rehydration needs. Tom’s Bar (www.
tomsbar.de), widely understood to be the area’s hottest dark room, is just a couple doors
down, but if a less raunchy atmosphere is
desired, a few blocks away are the pink
fur-covered walls of Heile Welt (www.
heile-welt-berlin.de). MORE Restaurant (www.more-berlin.de) is owned
by the same folks as Heile Welt and is
a great place to get brunch, served until
5 p.m.
Berlin is filled with inexpensive, delicious hole-in-the-wall establishments
featuring cuisine of all kinds. Generously sized Mission-style burritos can
be savored at Dolores (www.doloresonline.de). While still in Schöneberg,
explore the labyrinthine shopping extravaganza that is the KaDeWe department store (www.kadewe.de).
Topography of Terror Museum (www.
topographie.de). At the exact site where the
Gestapo and SS headquarters once stood is
an outdoor, free, and comprehensive permanent exhibition, displaying text and images depicting some of the most evocative
stories from the Third Reich. All these sites
Cheakpoint Charlie
and come up with your own interpretation.
In the same vicinity you’ll find Berlin’s
largest urban park. The Tiergarten is a
maze of forested paths, canal-side walkways, and even the city zoo. The park has
also been the focal point of Berlin’s infamous Love Parade, occurring nearly every
summer and converging its boisterous, fluorescent, techno-music-blasting self into the
center of the city’s most relaxing quarter. At
any other time of year it is a lovely place to
get away from the hustle and bustle of city
living and stroll past houseboats along the
canals, enjoy the foliage, and be surprised
by both classic and modern sculptures,
memorials, and fountains placed about its
miles of bike paths and trails. The goldenangel-topped Victory Monument at the
center of the park beckons visitors from all
around.
A still-existing segment of the Berlin Wall
provides a chilling backdrop to the sobering
Visit us online www.sgn.org
schwulesmuseum.de) documents the history of Berlin’s Gay and Lesbian inhabitants.
Though small in size, and open at odd hours
(check the website before visiting), the museum’s scope is immense. It leaves any visitor feeling a mixture of pride, sadness, and
optimism at the great struggles and successes of this often sidelined minority group.
GO BY BIKE
The best way to get around Berlin
and see many of the above-mentioned
sites is to take a bike tour. While attempting to tour the mountainous
terrain of cities like San Francisco or
Seattle on a bicycle could be an adventure meant only for the adrenaline
junkie or the highly skilled, Berlin’s
endless horizontal streets provide the
perfect conditions for an exhilarating yet safe bike ride. Fat Tire Bike
Tours (www.fattirebiketours.com) is
conveniently located in Alexanderplatz, at the foot of the tallest structure
in Germany, the Fernsehturm Tower.
Starting at just €24 (about $30), the
tour’s merry, knowledgeable, Englishspeaking guides wheel you around to
nearly every interesting and historic
site in town. If you choose a tour that
makes a stop at the Tiergarten, you’ll
likely enjoy a traditional German meal
set amid the park’s towering trees at
Schleusenkrug (www.schleusenkrug.
de).
It could easily take a lifetime to fully
encompass and comprehend the everchanging, yet always-influential Berlin
– even for the 3.5 million people who
consider it home. That said, if you do plan
to visit the city, don’t hesitate – you’ll need
all the rest of your life to continue exploring
this multi-faceted and astonishingly important city.
Jerr y L. Peer son
MUSEUMS/SITES/ACTIVITIES
Berlin boasts a seemingly limitless
amount of historic and captivating
sites. Museum Island (www.smb.museum), a concentration of five museums on the largest island in the River
Spree, is a good place to start a visit
through Berlin’s cultural history. Each
museum showcases a unique period
of artwork significant to the city, to
Germany, and beyond. The Reichstag
(www.bundestag.de), the home of
Germany’s Parliament, or Bundestag,
is not only significant for its role in
the political and military history of
the country, but also as an exquisite exhibit
of the combination of modern and classical architecture. In 1999, the 19th century
building was topped with a spiraling glass
dome offering 360-degree views across
Berlin. Though it was initially received with
some consternation, just like the Eiffel Tower it has since become an icon of this rapidly evolving capital. Nearby is the famous
Brandenburg Gate, from which visitors
can follow the former path of the wall dividing East and West Berlin, now marked by a
distinct line of stones, and still emerging as
remnants of the previous wall in some parts
of the city. Just down the road from the gate
is Peter Eisenmans’s evocative Holocaust
Memorial (www.holocaust-mahnmal.de).
The experiential design of the work allows
guests to wander along its undulating floor,
among black columns of varying heights,
and get lost in thought – perhaps remembering the lives lost during the Holocaust, or
just contemplating the diverse topography
of the site. The artist has been criticized
both for creating yet another memorial to
a bleak period in Germany’s history that
is already widely represented, and also for
not making its intended meaning obvious
enough. Wander inside, explore,
are within
walking distance from each other, but one
museum a bit farther away also deserves a
visit. At times still somber, but certainly
geared more toward celebration and education, the Schwules Museum (www.
September 21, 2012
Seattle Gay News
7
by Albert Rodriguez
SGN A&E Writer
As enthusiasm builds for the historic
legalization of Gay marriage in Washington and a few other states this November,
wedding planning and honeymoon ideas
become a priority for couples tying the
much-awaited knot. Oahu, the most populous of the Hawaiian islands, provides not
only a picturesque backdrop for memories
that will last a lifetime, but for Northwesterners the frequency of daily flights and
year-round warm weather adds to the con-
venience of this tropical destination. Hawaii
itself made civil unions legal earlier this
year, a sign of progress for the Aloha State,
which has long embraced LGBT visitors
and continues to be a romantic escape for all
couples – and a hot zone for those still looking for love. Begin organizing your trip with
a glance at www.visit-oahu.com. These are
my itinerary suggestions for Oahu-bound
couples and singles.
Ilikai Hotel & Suites (www.ilikaihotel.
com), a favorite shooting spot for the crew
of TV’s popular crime drama Hawaii FiveO. This oceanfront gem was built in 1964
and shares a unique bond with Seattle, as
its architect, John Graham Jr., was also the
man behind our city’s star attraction, the
Space Needle. With 968 rooms on 26 floors
(213 are residences or long-term vacation
homes), the Ilikai is a giant. Located on the
west end of Waikiki, a five-minute walk to
ACCOMMODATIONS
Ala Moana Center (see Shopping, below),
Waikiki, where the vast majority of visi- it appeals to tourists and many locals who
tors stay, is freckled with hotels to fit all appreciate its classy yet understated aptastes and budgets. Among them is the pearance and feel. Its spacious guest rooms
feature cushy beds, flower-patterned
armchairs, work desks, wall-mounted
flat-screen TVs, microwaves, coffeemakers with Hawaiian coffee, wonderfullyscented bath amenities, and lanais (verandas) facing out to the water or mountains.
On the premises, the Ilikai also boasts a
swimming pool, retail shops, open-air
lobby, and free WiFi throughout. As part
of the Aqua Resorts line of hotels (www.
aquaresorts.com), an active supporter
of Gay events such as the Rainbow Film
Festival, the Ilikai and its sister properties
offer specific packages for LGBT guests,
such as the “Out and Proud in Waikiki”
deal, with 15% discount at any of their
eight hotels plus a copy of eXpression
eau
Oah u Visi tor s Bur
8
Seattle Gay News
September 21, 2012
Oahu Visitors Bureau
Waikiki Beach
Celebrating 39 Years!
(Hawaii’s LGBT magazine) and a free mai
tai at Hula’s Bar & Lei Stand. On their website, click on the “Hotel Programs” and “Diversity Program” tabs for more information.
If smaller and hip is more your speed,
the Hotel Renew (www.hotelrenew.com),
on the opposite end of Waikiki and a block
from Hula’s, is Honolulu’s first designer
boutique property. With only 72 rooms,
Hotel Renew has time to spoil its guests,
starting with complimentary breakfast in
the lobby-area lounge each morning. The
attractive, mostly male front desk staff is
helpful and efficient, and once inside your
room the refined interior tells you that this
honeymoon or much-needed escape begins
with a little sophistication. Dark paneled
walls, wood-framed art, pomegranate-colored throw pillows and bed slips, squareshaped sink basins, and slick work desks accentuate its simple-meets-chic look. There’s
no swimming pool, restaurant, or gift shop
on the property, but the beach and waterside
eateries are just footsteps away. Views are
very limited with no lanais, and depending
on the season the pedestrian traffic at night
can be a tad bothersome. Overall, Hotel Renew is highly suggested for visitors wanting
something low-key though modern and hip.
BARS & RESTAURANTS
The Gay nightlife scene hasn’t changed
in Honolulu – Hula’s (www.hulas.com) is
still the premier bar to dance and mingle
at, while Fusion (www.fusionwaikiki.com)
caters to a weekend crowd with their drag
show extravaganza. Phoenix, the monthly
Gay night at RumFire (inside the Sheraton
Waikiki), is well attended. Also try The
Hideaway Bar (1913 Dudoit Lane) and
Wang Chung’s (www.wangchungs.com)
for more excitement. For a mixed group of
partiers, Tiki’s Grill & Bar (www.tikisgrill.com) at the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel has a great “happy hour” with yummy
appetizers in a lively atmosphere.
As for food, let’s start on the North Shore.
Luibueno’s (www.luibueno.com) serves
up terrific Tex-Mex and Latin grub at reasonable prices. For around $10, you can
get two fresh fish tacos and a microbrew
during happy hour. Back in Waikiki, one
of my personal favorites that offers something for everyone is the Makai Market
Food Court at Ala Moana Center with a
range of ethnic cuisine, including Filipino,
Japanese, Italian, traditional Hawaiian, and
mainland fast food. Up on the second level
of this massive shopping mall is Panya Bistro, an upscale bakery and diner that makes
a worthy Loco Moco, aside from mouthwatering pastries. New to Waikiki, for those
looking for a trendy setting, bin 1901 at the
Moana Surfrider (www.moana-surfrider.
com) is a polished wine bar with nightly entertainment and a good selection of pupus
(appetizers). For a quick beach snack, the
Queen’s Surf Cafe & Lanai over by what
used to be the Gay hangout has reasonably
priced hot dogs, burgers, and plate lunches.
For an elegant meal, Sarento’s (www.
sarentoswaikiki.com), atop the Ilikai Hotel, puts out exceptional Italian dishes with
magnificent views of Waikiki Beach. The
Caprese salad with gnocchi was quite memorable, as was their version of Bananas Foster with actual banana bread. But the crown
jewel was Sarento’s handmade pasta al
funghi, served with prosciutto, fresh basil,
and Hamakua mushrooms. Friday evenings
at this restaurant, which also has a scenic
bar, are especially nice due to its spectacular vantage point of the weekly fireworks
display. The glass elevator ride to the top
floor is a fun part of the experience as well.
ATTRACTIONS/ACTIVITIES
There’s plenty to do on Oahu besides lying on the beach or going for a swim. I
strongly recommend an excurison outside
of Waikiki for a more authentic snapshot
of the island, and a great spot is the North
Shore. You can rent a car or take public
transportation, though the best option if
Visit us online www.sgn.org
you’re up for an adventure is the Surf Bus
(www.northshoresurfbus.com). A shuttle
will transport you from your Waikiki hotel
to the North Shore, complete with drivers
who double as tour guides and your choice
of two separate activities, one in the morning and another in the afternoon. Among
these activities are snorkeling, biking, paddleboarding, and free time to explore. I did
the bike ride, most of it on a paved trail, in
the morning and I decided to stroll around
the town of Haleiwa in the afternoon to buy
cheap souvenirs. The Surf Bus has several
different tours available at various price
points, and I can’t overstress how friendly
and professional they were. This is something couples can do together, even if they
decide to try different activities when they
arrive on the North Shore. Another attraction, and one that doesn’t require any sweat,
is a visit to the Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts and Cultures. Doris Duke was
a tobacco heiress who fell head over heels
for Oahu so much that she purchased an
oceanfront home and transformed it into a
hub for her impressive art collection. The
home was completely designed to her liking, utilizing imported rugs, tiles, furnishings, and lighting from the Mediterranean
and Middle East. It may not sound fascinating on paper, but in person it’s a visual delight. Tours begin and end at the Honolulu
Museum of Art (www.honolulumuseum.
org).
and Hawaiian-based boutiques like Tori
Richard, Town & Country Surf, and Blue
Hawaii Lifestyle are just a few of the places in this multi-floor complex to browse
through. Open until 9 p.m. Monday through
Saturday (7 p.m. on Sundays), Ala Moana
features daily hula shows and has many
popular restaurants, including Romano’s
Macaroni Grill, California Pizza Kitchen, celebrity chef Alan Wong’s Pineapple
Room at Macy’s, and Tommy Bahama’s.
A few items to pick up at Ala Moana: inexpensive Hawaiian flipflops at Long’s Drugs,
scented candles at Tori Richard, and cool Tshirts at Town & Country Surf. Save room
for a cheap ($1–$3) draft beer at the new Yataimura Beer Garden inside the Shirokiya
store.
The Royal Hawaiian Center (www.royalhawaiiancenter.com) has undergone several renovations in past years, adding new
shops and a well-received Pa’ina Lanai
Food Court (Panda Express, Mahaloha
Burger, Paradise Cafe, etc.). For newlyweds, the Honolulu Home store has a variety of Hawaiian-made picture frames and
quilts, while fashionistas might opt for the
Hermes boutique, and electronic buffs will
surely get lost in the Apple Store. I love the
oversized lounge chairs positioned throughout the mall, because after a long day of
shopping it’s exactly what you need to rest
your feet. Ahhh!
SHOPPING
You can’t go on vacation and not come
back with new clothes, or perhaps home
goods if you’ve recently been married. Ala
Moana Center (www.alamoanacenter.
com), at a whopping 2.1 million square feet,
is the world’s largest open-air mall with 290
retail stores and 70 dining options. Large
department stores like Nordstrom, Macy’s,
Neiman Marcus, and Sears; brand-name
shops like Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, True Religion, and Banana Republic;
September 21, 2012
Seattle Gay News
9
Adventures of a naked New Yorker
by Jesse Monteagudo
Special to the SGN
10
Seattle Gay News
courtes y justin hernan dez
INSIDE THE VORTEX
JUSTIN HERNANDEZ
(CreateSpace, 148 pp., $13.95)
Native New Yorker Justin Hernandez is
the author of the blog Naked in New York
City, in which he chronicles “life and dating in the Big Apple, with the occasional
commentary on Gay culture.” According to
Justin, the blog is “about my search for love
in one of the most exciting
cities in the world. I’m a
former stripper, so the title
is partially a thinly veiled,
tongue-in-cheek reference
to that time. I sometimes
mix it up by writing about
different aspects of Gay
culture that I find intriguing because I don’t want
to be a one-note blogger.
In the past, some of the
subjects I’ve addressed
have ranged from my observations regarding the
bareback sex community,
to quickie encounters between men at the gym (or,
as I like to refer to them,
steam-room bunnies). I
strive to write as honestly
as possible, because it
took me so long to get to
the point where I embrace
honesty as opposed to
hiding from it.”
The success of Hernandez’s blog inspired him
to write about his earlier
life. Inside the Vortex,
a prequel to the blog,
chronicles the foundations of a life “based on
abuse, denial, cover-ups,
and secrecy.” The book
follows Hernandez’s life
from a dysfunctional
boyhood in the Bronx
to a career as a dancer
(erotic and otherwise) in Los Angeles,
along with addictions and failed love affairs. “Here are all the highs and all the
lows, told through the perspective of a per-
son who is older and definitely wiser,” he past and show people how I got to the place differently, I might be a completely differwrites. “I’m not a martyr. I’m just someone of honesty that led me to create the blog.
ent person today,” he says.
who has learned from the situations I’ve
“I don’t think my story should be considInside the Vortex is brutally honest about
been in. My journey is far from over.”
ered a blueprint of what not to do. We all Hernandez’s family, friends, and ex“It was never my plan to write about my
lovers. Has there
past when I began the blog,” Hernandez
been a reaction
continues. “I was in a really good place
from any of them?
in life when I began Naked in New York
“My best friend
City, and I just wanted to write about
Ray is very proud
all the great things I was experiencing.
of me, as are my
However, as the blog progressed, I realparents. I haven’t
ized that there were still some issues from
heard anything
from my exes,
although I did
reach out to one
of them shortly
after the book
was published
only because I
did disclose his
HIV status. But
I’m not worried,
though. The truth
sets everyone
free, and it’s not
like I went off
on some bashing
tirade. I aired all
of my unsavory
moments with
them, so I don’t
come off looking
so great either.
Besides, with the
exception of one,
I changed all of
their first names
and I didn’t use
their last names.”
Outside
of
Justin Hernandez
H e r n a n d e z ’s
own circle, the
reaction to Inside the
have our own paths to follow. What’s Vortex “has been amazing,” he says.
amazing about the journey in life
“I’m proud of what I wrote, but as with
is that all the roads, both good and anything that becomes available for public
bad, lead us to different places. What consumption, I had to be prepared for the
happens next depends on what you possibility that not everyone will love it. So
learn from your experiences. I think far, though, the public response has been
my memoir shows that you can walk favorable. The best has been the messages
away from even the most horrific of I have received from outside of the LGBT
the ‘old days’ that were occasioncircumstances and become a better community. I wrote this book with my
ally popping up. I alluded to them, and as person in the process.”
target audience in mind, and the fact that
a result people became curious. I decided a
In spite of it all, Hernandez has no regrets. somehow this book has wound up on the rabook would be the best way to address the “If anything about my life had played out dar of some heterosexual readers has been
incredible.”
Will there be a sequel to Inside the Vortex? “Yes, there will be,” Hernandez says,
“but I would like a few years to pass before
I consider a direct follow-up. I’m seeing
things through a completely different point
of view than I did during my twenties and
a good portion of my thirties. I equate it to
someone who has been in a coma for a long
period of time, and then wakes up. I was in
an emotional coma for 27 years, and as a result, some things are foreign and feel like
brand-new experiences. Even things that I
took for granted in the past are now exciting to me. So no immediate sequel, but I’m
going to keep writing because I absolutely
love it! I have plans for two other nonfiction
books, and of course, I’ll keep blogging.”
(Visit Hernandez’s blog at www.nakedinnewyorkcity.com.)
September 21, 2012
Celebrating 39 Years!
Visit us online www.sgn.org
September 21, 2012
Seattle Gay News
11
Osaka
by Albert Rodriguez
SGN A&E Writer
Though it trails Tokyo in size, Osaka is
still a monster of a city. The third largest
metropolis in Japan, it’s home to about
18 million people (including the outlying areas) and seems to be active at most
hours of the day. Osaka is safe, friendly,
and modern with a culinary reputation
boarding, VIP club access, and my favorite in-flight amenity kit thus far. A cheaper
upgrade (around $200 extra) is Economy
Comfort, with more leg room than Economy and complimentary spirits. If traveling
from Tokyo, take the Shinkansen (or Bullet Train), which leaves Tokyo Station with
frequent daily departures and quick stops
in Yokohama, Nagoya, and Kyoto. It’s a fast
ride, completing the 343-mile trip to Shin-
ACCOMMODATIONS
You can’t ask for a more centralized
place to stay than the Swissotel Nankai Osaka (www.swissotel.com/osaka).
Serviced directly from Kansai International Airport – the Namba railway station is right beneath the hotel – this puts
you within minutes of the city’s main attractions, either by foot or subway. Built
in 1980, the property is equipped with
A calm, slower-paced
Japanese experience
all its own, and it offers LGBT travelers a
stimulating nightlife complete with dance
clubs, drag shows, “love hotels,” and wild
theme parties. But for the ordinary visitor, Osaka is a slower paced venture from
Tokyo, a place with great public markets,
riverfront parks, contemporary shopping
centers, and historical landmarks in a
more tranquil ambiance. As one of Asia’s
top economical hubs, and conveniently
near Kyoto, Nagoya, and Gifu, it serves as
both a leisure and business destination for
foreign visitors. For general trip planning,
go to www.japantravelinfo.com. Here’s
how I recommend spending your time in
Osaka.
Osaka station in just 2.5 hours. Coach class
can be snug, depending on what time of day
you’re traveling, and WiFi is extra. Portions
of the trek are scenic, like the views of rolling valleys and green plantations, yet the
excursion also whistles past industrial areas dotted with manufacturing plants. For
information on the Shinkansen, visit http://
english.jr-central.co.jp.
GETTING THERE
Remarkably, Seattle is just
one plane ride away from Osaka.
Delta Airlines (www.delta.com)
flies nonstop to Kansai International Airport, which fascinatingly
rests on an artificial island about 45
minutes from the city. If you can
afford to splurge, upgrade
to Business Elite, which offers a generous amount of
space, specially designed
meals, noisecancelling
headphones,
personal service, priority
548 guest rooms, six restaurants, three
chapels, day spa, gym, heated indoor
pool, business center, bridal floor, and
an expansive lobby with grand staircase.
WiFi Internet access should be available
throughout the hotel by the end of 2012.
Swissotel Nankai, preferred by both business and leisure travelers, sits directly
across the always-packed Shinsaibashi
Shopping Arcade and a few blocks
from the Dotonbori shopping and entertainment district. Breakfast buffets are
served at the Tavola 36 Italian Restaurant & Sky Bar on the top (36th) floor,
with splendid views of the urban landscape. Rooms are reasonable in size with
Western-style amenities and most provide nice lookouts, especially at night,
over the city sprawl. I was pleased with
the staff’s high level of professionalism and friendliness, but they did
give me poor directions to two local
tourist spots (it’s a good idea to invest
in a map).
GAY CULTURE/NIGHTLIFE
Compacted into the Doyamacho section of the city, about a
seven-minute train ride from
Namba station, Osaka’s Gay
district is small yet surprisingly quite fun
and active. There are
two types of bars, as
you might similarly find
in Tokyo: those pa-
Osaka Convention & Visitors Bureau
Osaka Castle
E
T
O
V
O
T
REGISTER
WWW.MYVOTE.WA.GOV
12
Seattle Gay News
September 21, 2012
Celebrating 39 Years!
tronized mainly by locals and those with a
substantial number of foreigners. Bars of
the latter type are sometimes referred to
as “foreign-friendly.” Explosion (www.exosaka.com) is the hot club of the moment,
with a big dance floor, drag performances,
and special parties such as the annual Black
Ball. The crowd leans 20s to early 30s, and
the Japanese boys who hang out here are
attractive and hip. Although the clientele
is mostly local, Explosion certainly woos
its share of out of town visitors. FrenZFrenzy (http://frenz-frenzy.jp) is a shoebox
of a bar and not the easiest to come across,
tucked into an alleyway, but definitely
worth going to. Ex-pats, Americans on
teaching contracts, Gay guys from around
the world, and Osaka’s socialites converge
here to drink and listen to a good selection
of overhead music. You’ll also see a swarm
of foreigners inside Physique (www.physiqueprideosaka.com), also known as Physique Pride, situated above Explosion. It’s a
trendy lounge that fills up on the weekends
and a perfect spot to schmooze without too
much noise. As for bathhouses, Hokuoukan (www.hokuoukan.jp) has a strong reputation among all saunas in Asia. It’s open
24 hours and provides the typical baths and
private rooms in a discreet, comfortable
setting. Doyama-cho is a safe and active
area with bars, traditional Osaka restaurants, love hotels (primarily straight), adult
video shops, and dance clubs. Grab a copy
of Badi, Japan’s premier Gay magazine, for
updated information on the scene. For personalized Gay tours, go to www.magnettours.jp.
SIGHTSEEING
Osaka’s most famous attraction is Osaka
Castle, a symbol of Japanese power and
unification first constructed in the late 16th
century, and destroyed and rebuilt twice
since then. The present-day castle, celebrating its 80th anniversary, is a gorgeous tower
with eight levels of museum space, an observation deck with panoramic views, and a
photo stall that allows visitors to don traditional warrior outfits. Surrounding the castle are magnificent gardens, a plum-grove
orchard, shrines, moats, and a small park.
Admission to the tower and museum is
¥600. Hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily (last
admission at 4:30), but may be extended in
the warmer months. More information is
available at www.osakacastle.net.
Another tall feature wooing tourists is
Tsutenkaku, an unavoidable landmark
that translates to “tower reaching the sky”
or “tower reaching heaven.” Perched atop
retail shops and a restaurant in the hopping Shinsekai district, known for its many
eateries, this 337-foot structure is brightly
lit and has its own observation area. It was
rebuilt in the 1950s after the original, constructed as part of an amusement park, was
torn down for military purposes.
My favorite excursion during my Osaka
stay was Spa World (www.spaworld.co.jp).
This six-story health and massage retreat
is a block away from the Dobutsuen-Mae
train station, two stops from the Namba station. It’s a non-descript building, so write
the address down from the website and ask
for help if you get lost. Upon entering, you
must pay your admission (¥2,400–3,000),
depending on how long you plan to utilize
the services. You’re then asked to remove
your shoes and store them in a tiny locker
on the main floor (¥100 additional, but it’s
refunded when you leave). The top floor,
for men only, is a large space with various
themed soaking baths (Mediterranean, Roman, etc.). It’s mandatory that you fully disrobe, though you are provided small towels
to dry off with or wrap around your waist.
There are lots of (presumably straight)
young Japanese men with fit, athletic bodies
who come here to relax and condition themselves at these baths, which are beautifully,
if oddly, designed – one particular whirlpool is fitted with a TV that shows Hollywood movies, and there’s even a snack bar
to grab a beer in between baths, not to mention a large room with mats that men go into
to take naps. But heaven is not on the top
floor, but on the second. Here’s where you’ll
find several massage parlors, each operating
separately and charging a minimal fee on
top of your admission. What’s great about
these masseurs is that they offer massages
for precise areas of your body, like a legsonly or back-and-shoulders-only massage,
or the infamous fish-eating foot massage.
I had two amazing treatments, then feasted my eyes on attractive naked men while
soaking in some immaculate baths. But take
note, this is not a bathhouse. Spa World is a
must for those who aren’t shy.
The final thing I recommend doing in
Osaka, and an efficient way to see much of it
in a short span, is to take a riverboat cruise
on the Yodo River. Aboard long, flat boats
with domed see-through roofs, dubbed
“Aqua Liners,” guests can enjoy a 60-minute journey up and down the river with
scenic shots of the Nakanoshima riverside
park, Kema Sakuranomiya Park, Osaka
Castle, financial buildings, and redeveloped
neighborhoods in the city. Boats can be
boarded on the pier from Osaka Castle, or
on the opposite end just a few minutes from
Yodoyabashi train station. For more information, inquire at www.osaka-info.jp/en/
access/info_ferry.html.
Visit us online www.sgn.org
Starting September 21
The Master
written and directed by
PAUL THOMAS ANDERSON
Projected in 70mm
137min • R
Showtimes: 9/21 — 9/27
12:00 3:30 7:00 10:30pm
September 21, 2012
Seattle Gay News
13
ALASKA
continued from cover
alyeskaresort.com). This upscale hotel and
ski resort has beautiful rooms, a full spa,
and one of the top destination restaurants in
the state, Seven Glaciers, which is reached
via aerial tram. From Girdwood, it’s a short
drive to one of the peninsula’s most fascinating attractions, the Alaska Wildlife
Conservation Center. Other musts include
the Alaska SeaLife Center in Seward, and
the Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Center in Homer.
If you’d prefer an all-inclusive touring approach to the Kenai Peninsula, with some
incredible outdoor recreational opportunities, book a trip with Alaska Wildland
Adventures (www.alaskawildland.com),
which has three one-of-a-kind accommodations on the peninsula – Kenai Riverside
Lodge, Kenai Backcountry Lodge, and
Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge. AWA’s trips
include everything from adrenaline-pumping whitewater rafting and sea-kayaking to
more easygoing hikes, float trips, and fishing outings. These tours are ideal for families or groups of friends traveling together.
Trek on a glacier
Opportunities to view glaciers abound
from Juneau north into Denali National
Park. One of the most amazing ways to
experience one of these hulking masses of
slow-moving ice is to hike directly onto one.
In the historic gold-rush town of Skagway,
at the northern end of the Inside Passage,
Packer Expeditions (www.packerexpeditions.com) offers wilderness and snowshoe
hikes onto Laughton Glacier. These fullday adventures involve riding the historic
White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad to a
mountain trailhead, and then trekking about
four miles through verdant woodland and
onto the glacier.
In Juneau, Above & Beyond Alaska
(www.beyondak.com) has developed an
amazing glacier trek on which you’ll hike
3.5 miles through rainforest alongside Mendenhall Lake, then don crampons and ice
axes and walk for more than an hour atop
Mendenhall Glacier. If conditions permit,
you may also hike inside one of the surreal,
blue-walled ice caves that have formed beneath the glacier.
See Alaska from the air
Alaska is home to more licensed airline
pilots per capita than any other state. This is
hardly surprising given the remote terrain,
and the fact that many communities can’t be
reached by road. Even commercial flights
around the state can yield some tremendous views. A number of smaller airlines
offer regularly scheduled service through
the Inside Passage, with trips from Juneau
north to Skagway or Haines, or south to
Ketchikan.
Air tours are also a favorite way to view
Denali National Park. Offering flights over
McKinley’s summit as well as actual glacier landings in Denali, McKinley Flight
Tours (www.talkeetnaaero.com) is one
of that area’s best air-tour companies, flying out of a small airport just north of the
park, in Healy. In the funky town of Talkeetna, about midway between Anchorage
and Denali, you can also book a variety of
air excursions over the park with such reliable outfits as K2 Aviation (www.flyk2.
com) and Talkeetna Air Taxi (www.talkeetnaair.com).
Hide out
at a secluded lodge
Renowned chef and cookbook author
Kirsten Dixon and her husband, Carl, operate three of the most enchanting wilderness lodges in the state, each with just a
handful of warmly appointed guest cabins
– and all of them serving artful, locally
sourced food. Winterlake Lodge is about
200 miles northwest of Anchorage (reached
by float- or ski-plane, depending on the season) on the Iditarod Trail, and Redoubt
14
Seattle Gay News
September 21, 2012
Celebrating 39 Years!
Bay Lodge lies about an hour by float-plane
southwest of Anchorage in one of the state’s
densest bear-habitats.
The easiest of the properties to reach,
Tutka Bay Lodge, still requires a spectacular water-taxi ride from Homer across
Kachemak Bay. Once here you’ll discover
a splendid retreat at the mouth of a fjord,
nestled beneath Sitka spruce trees and complete with its own cooking school, which
has been built ingeniously inside a former
crabbing boat. Spend at least three or four
days at any of these secluded hideaways
– once you get here, you’ll have a difficult
time pulling yourself away.
Stay at a small inn
Most of the state’s key communities have
at least a few Gay-friendly inns, which
typically have distinctive settings and offer
guests a better sense of what it’s like to live
in Alaska. Anchorage has a number of terrific options, including the affordable Copper Whale Inn (www.copperwhale.com),
which is within walking distance of downtown attractions. Also centrally located are
such Gay-owned options as the Wildflower
Inn (www.alaska-wildflower-inn.com) and
the City Garden B&B (http://citygarden.
biz).
Dale and Jo View Suites (www.daleandjo.com) is a luxurious, cozy spot with
wonderful views in Fairbanks, while the
Visit us online www.sgn.org
renowned Pearson’s Pond (www.pearsonspond.com) is one of the most sumptuous places to stay in Juneau. Funky Homer
is home to such welcoming B&Bs as Brigitte’s Bavarian B&B (http://akms.com/
brigitte), set on a birch-shaded hillside,
and the sunny and contemporary Bay Avenue B&B (www.bayavebb.com), which
overlooks rippling Kachemak Bay. And in
Skagway, you’d be hard-pressed to find a
more welcoming, reasonably priced accommodation than the centrally located White
House B&B (www.atthewhitehouse.com).
A great LGBT resource
Finally, if you’re looking for an excellent,
Gay-friendly resource to help plan or even
September 21, 2012
guide you on your trip to the Last Frontier,
get in touch with LGBT-owned Out in
Alaska (www.outinalaska.com), which offers an impressive variety of intimate (usually four to eight people) trips throughout
the state, from multi-day cruises and overland adventures to quick day trips around
Anchorage, where the company is based.
Out in Alaska can also customize guided
trips or help you plan your own independent
tour.
Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the
New York Times-owned website GayTravel.About.com and is the author of Fodor’s
Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached
in care of SGN or at [email protected].
Seattle Gay News
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