Blue Water Sailing June 2006 - Sailing Charters, Newport, Rhode

SPECIAL REPORT: SEAMANSHIP SOLUTIONS FROM THE EXPERTS
Blue
Water
Sailing
TOP
10
J u n e 2 0 0 6
www. bws a i l i n g .c o m
Special
Report:
WAYS TO
BUILD YOUR
SKILLS
Seamanship Solutions from the Experts
WHY WOMEN
LOVE THE
CRUISING LIFE
PROFILE:
WEATHER
GURU HERB
HILGENBERG
J U N E
2 0 0 6
$4.99US $5.99CAN
0
09281 01862
06
9
BWS TESTS THE
NEW TARTAN 3400
Seamanship Solutions
1
FIXING AN
OVERRIDE IN 3
EASY STEPS
2
I
t happens to even the most attuned trimmers,
too many wraps around the winch when tacking,
and they are left with an override that is impossible to budge. Trying to trim more often makes
it worse, and removing wraps on a loaded line is
downright dangerous. The trick is to take the
load off the sheet, unwind the override and rewrap the winch.
1) Take a spare line and tie a rolling hitch on the
loaded part of the sheet, forward of the winch. Many
synthetic lines are slippery, especially if new, and
might require a few extra wraps in the rolling hitch
in order to get a solid hold on the sheet.
2) Lead the spare line to the aft cleat and take up
tension. The spare line is going to take the whole
load of the jib sheet. Make sure the rolling hitch isn’t
slipping and has a good hold on the sheet. Then take
up on the spare line as much as possible. You can
make the line off or have a crewmember tend the
line around the lobes of the cleat.
3) Slowly ease off tension on the sheet. The sheet
will become slack between the rolling hitch and the
winch as the spare line takes the full load. Unwind
the override, rewrap the winch and take up tension
on the sheet again, relieving the spare line.
If easing the sheet doesn’t ease the override,
take up on the spare line until you have created
some slack between the rolling hitch and the winch.
This might require leading the spare line around
the aft cleat and to the winch on the opposite side
of the boat.
Blue Water Sailing •
June 2006
3
53
SPECIAL REPORT
3
1
ADJUSTING JIB LEADS
W
Flat foot means
move the car
forward
2
54
hen the jib is rolled all
the way out, use the
telltales to adjust the jib
car and find the perfect shape.
1) If the top inside telltale lifts
while the others stream back, the
car needs to move forward. If the
bottom inside telltale lifts, the car
needs to move aft.
Jib trim becomes a lot more
difficult when dealing with a
furled jib with no telltales to offer
trim suggestions.
2) If you leave the jib car in
position, the foot will be overtrimmed while the leach will
sag uselessly. The foot should
always have some curve to it and
never be completely flat and
stalled out.
By moving the jib lead forward
you will return some shape to the
foot of the furled jib.
3) You may also need to adjust
the leech tension when the jib is
furled. Be careful not to move the
jib too far forward, which will
result in a tight leech that cups in,
and an over-full foot.
Blue Water Sailing • June 2006
Seamanship Solutions
BALANCING
ACT
Balance the
helm to improve
performance
and crew comfort
PROBLEMS
The crew doesn’t like the boat
to heel so much
The autopilot and windvane don’t
work as they should
The boat is not as fast as her
sister ships.
SOLUTIONS
Despite the dramatic photos
you see in magazines and calendars of boats charging along with
the rail under and the spray flying,
sailboats are almost never fastest
nor the crew happiest when the
boat is overpowered and heeling
too much. Nor will they be happy
when the boat is underpowered as
it rolls and pitches aimlessly in the
waves. That is because the boat is
out of balance—the sails over or
under trimmed, the rudder too far
over and the keel stalled.
With the boat out of balance,
the rudder will have to be turned
off the centerline to compensate
for poor sail trim. The more it is
turned, the more drag it creates.
And when the boat heels too far
over, the less efficient will be the
tracking and stabilizing effects of
the keel and rudder.
A boat with sails out of trim
will heel too much (or flop
around too much), will be difficult
for the autopilot or windvane to
steer and will be slower than her
sister ships.
Racers and veteran cruisers
agree that on most points of sail
Blue Water Sailing •
June 2006
the rudder should have about
five degrees of weather helm. This
small angle gives the helmsman,
the autopilot or windvane a
positive touch on the rudder
and a reliable point of reference
to steer from. It also provides a
slight lifting force when sailing
upwind.
Sail trim is the key. In general,
start by trimming the headsail so
the telltales stream evenly aft on
both sides. Next trim the mainsail
in with the traveler amidships until
the telltales on the batten ends at
the leech stream freely aft or until
the luff stops luffing. If this
produces too much weather helm,
ease the traveler to leeward to
remove twist from the sail and
trim the sheet per the telltales. In
winds over 15 or 18 knots, you
may have to tie in or roll in the
first reef in the main and then
adjust the traveler and sheet for a
balanced helm.
If you experience lee helm—10
degrees of wheel to leeward—the
jib and main are out of synch.
Trim the jib to the telltales and
then the main and traveler. In light
winds you may have to haul the
traveler to windward—enhancing
sail twist—while in heavier
breezes you may have to reef or
roll up some jib to be in balance
with the reefed mainsail.
Practice balancing your boat’s
helm and watch the crew relax
when sailing to windward, see
how much better the autopilot and
windvane work and have fun
keeping up with or beating your
boat’s sister ships.
55
SPECIAL REPORT
Preventers, brakes and vangs
How to keep the main under control downwind
T
here is nothing like running
under full sail before a
steady breeze, making miles
toward landfall and feeling your
boat tracking along at hull speed.
But downwind sailing always
carries with it the threat of an
accidental jibe that at the least can
be a nuisance and at worst can
cause serious damage to the
mainsail and rig.
Also, when running before a
strong breeze the boom tends to
lift skyward, increasing the chance
of a jibe and adding so much
twist in the sail that it becomes
inefficient.
Most modern cruising boats
are equipped with a rigid vang on
the main boom that can be used
to control leech tension and
sail shape. If your boat does not
56
have a rigid vang, it makes sense
to retrofit one. (Harken, Forespar,
Hall Spars and others make quality vangs.)
But dead downwind, the vang
won’t prevent a jibe and won’t
keep the mainsail from slatting
when the waves are up. Two
simple solutions can tame the
downwind main.
The first is a simple preventer vang that is rigged from midboom to a pad eye, amidships
cleat or toe rail to leeward. A
three-part tackle fitted with heavy
snap shackles and with a line
long enough to lead aft to the
cockpit works well. Cinched
down, the vang will flatten the
leech and will keep the main
boom from jibing should the sail
fill aback suddenly.
To keep the boom firmly in
place when all the way out, rig a
preventer line from the boom’s
end to a bow cleat and tighten it
down. If you are running in the
trade winds for days on end, it
helps to rig a standing preventer
on the boom (just shorter than the
boom) with a eye spliced in the
end. Rig lines on both side decks
running from the cockpit through
snatch blocks on the bow that can
be attached to the standing
preventer as you jibe the sail from
one side to the other.
Lastly, a Dutchman boom
brake, a patented preventer that
rigs from mid-boom to both side
decks, is an excellent tool for
preventing sudden jibes and
helping you control the boom
when you mean to jibe.
Blue Water Sailing • June 2006
Seamanship Solutions
SIMPLIFY WITH SINGLE-LINE REEFING
2) Lead the reef
line through the
bottom of the boom
sheave near the
gooseneck and up to
a block attached to
the cringle.
1) Put blocks at the
clew points by
either sewing a
webbing loop into
the sail or putting a
shackle through an
existing grommet
for the reef line. It
is important that
the end of the
reefing line is
attached to the
boom directly
under the clew for
the reef.
3) Use fair leads
where necessary to
lead the reefing
line to the base of
the mast and back
to the cockpit.
4) Ease the
halyard and haul
on the reef line for
a tidy reef.
S
ingle-line reefing makes it safe and easy for a
single watchstander to reduce sail area without
ever leaving the cockpit. And with a few alterations, most boats can turn their traditional reefing
rig into a single-line system with a minimal investment of time and money.
One of the most important considerations in a
smooth-running single-line reefing system is friction.
In order to minimize friction, use high-quality blocks
throughout. If you try to use the existing cringles
and rings, too much friction will build up, and it
will be impossible to get the clew and tack tight
enough from the cockpit, not to mention the wear
on the line.
2
4
Blue Water Sailing •
June 2006
57
SPECIAL REPORT
WING
and
WING
How to set up
the pole(s) to
get the most
from your
downwind rig
M
ost of us carry
whisker poles for
running downwind
wing and wing.
When running along
the coast for a few hours or even
overnight, a whisker pole (such as
a telescoping pole from Forespar)
works fine and can be set easily
by one person without a topping
lift or guys.
With a roller-furling genoa, just
roll in the genoa, attach the pole
to the mast, clip in the windward
sheet, push the pole forward
and then trim in the sheet until
the sail is flying pole-out to windward. You may have to push the
pole all the way to the genoa’s
clew, but often it will slide forward all on its own.
Dowsing the sail and whisker
pole requires rolling in the genoa
with tension on the genoa sheet
and letting the pole down from
the clew onto the lifelines by
easing the sheet all the way.
But in heavier breezes and
when running for a few days in
variable conditions, it makes a lot
58
of sense to treat your downwind
rig as a system set up to control
the sail and the pole no matter
how blustery the breeze and
bumpy the sea. And there are
times—like 3 a.m.—when you
want to control the sail and pole
without having to schlepp around
on a wet foredeck.
For a durable and reliable
downwind rig, a full-length
spinnaker pole (or two) will be
stronger than a simple telescoping
whisker pole. A track and end
fitting for the pole on the mast,
plus a topping lift for the pole
allow you to adjust the pole height
at both ends. In general, you want
the pole level when the genoa is
fully rolled out and rigged to the
pole to windward.
Some veteran voyagers like to
mount two poles, one on each
side, so you never have to jibe the
pole itself when you jibe the sail
and can simply switch from pole
to pole as the genoa switches
sides. Scott and Kitty Kuhner, who
have twice circumnavigated in the
trade winds, set up their two poles
so that the inboard ends can be
hoisted up the mast track and the
outboard ends can be attached to
the lifelines when not in use (see
Practical Passagemaker, BWS
November 2005). The poles are
always ready to deploy and can be
stowed away easily without
detaching them from the mast.
With a topping lift, the out-
Blue Water Sailing • June 2006
Seamanship Solutions
board end of the pole can be
controlled vertically. But to control
the pole in the fore and aft dimensions, it is necessary to run a
foreguy and after guy.
The foreguy should run from
the cockpit, through a snatch
block at the bow and back to the
pole end. The after guy should run
from the cockpit, through a snatch
block on the aft quarter and then
to the pole end. With both guys
and the topping lift set up, the
pole is immobilized and then can
be trimmed forward or aft from
the cockpit with the guys. If you
are rigged with two poles, the fore
and after guys should be set up
both to port and starboard.
This all sounds like a lot of
new lines running into the cockpit,
so it really helps to rig line bags in
the cockpit or on the lifelines next
to the cockpit to capture all the
loose ends. If you will be doing a
lot of downwind sailing—and with
luck you will—adding line stoppers or clutches (Spinlock, Lewmar and others) for each guy will
keep cockpit cleats and winches
clear for the genoa sheets and
other uses.
To set the genoa with a fully
guyed pole, lead the sheet through
the outboard pole end and then
hoist the pole with the topping
lift to the sail’s clew (with the
sail still rolled up). Release the
roller-furling control line and trim
the windward sheet, drawing the
sail aft to fill it. With the sail
drawing, trim the fore and aft
guys and the sail is set to run for
days on end.
The beauty of this rig is the
ability—at 3 a.m.—to react to an
approaching squall by rolling in
as much genoa as you like while
controlling the pole from the
cockpit. And, if the wind continues to build, you can dowse the
mainsail completely and continue
running under ever-reduced headsail confident that the sail and
pole are always in your control.
The rig also can be used to
control the genoa when on a
power reach in lumpy conditions.
The only difference will be that
Blue Water Sailing •
June 2006
the genoa and main are set on
the same side; with the pole
controlling the genoa’s leech you
can prevent the sail from flogging
and popping as the boat zigs and
zags through the waves and you
can control the genoa’s leech
to reduce the twist at the top of
the sail that renders half the
sail useless.
At the end of a passage you
can roll the genoa away completely, trim the guys to hold the
pole against the rolled genoa and
simply leave the pole up there
while you prepare and deploy
your ground tackle.
Safety and comfort at sea are
directly related to how well you
can control your sails in a wide
range of conditions. Rigging a
downwind system for running
wing and wing with a topping lift
and fore and aft guys permits you
to harness all the power of a big
genoa without the hassle and
possible dangers of dashing
around the foredeck.
59
SPECIAL REPORT
HEAVING-TO
Master the art
of heaving-to
and give yourself
a break in light
and heavy
conditions alike
W
hether stopping to
rest, waiting for
daylight or riding
out a gale,
heaving-to is an
invaluable technique that allows
you to slow the boat and restore a
seakindly motion with minimal
leeway. While heaving-to can be
used as a means of convenience
during calm conditions, it is an
important storm tactic to have at
your disposal in heavy weather.
In light conditions heaving-to
can be used to avoid landfall at
night or in poor conditions. On
long passages many shorthanded
crews report regularly heaving-to
to ease the motion during meals,
when undertaking maintenance in
the engine room or even to catch
up on sleep.
In heavy conditions heaving-to
will allow you to hold your
position without giving up gains to
windward. When conditions get
too rough and the crew too
fatigued heaving-to will ease the
motion and relieve the helmsman.
You can hold your position to
avoid the worst sector of a
60
weather system, or ride out a
frontal passage and wait for more
favorable weather behind it.
Practicing during moderate
conditions will help you learn how
best to balance your boat when
hove-to. Every boat will react
differently to sail combinations, so
it is important
to know the
right combo
before needing
to heave-to in
heavy weather.
Start with
either the storm
jib and trysail or
significantly
reefed main
and jib. The jib
should be
furled enough
so that it does
not overlap the
mast. Trim for a
reach, and then
tack without
crossing the jib.
Once the boat
is on its new
course, slowly
turn the helm to weather. Adjust
the helm and mainsheet so that
the boat is slowly sailing along at
less than two knots at a 40- to 60degree angle to the wind. The jib
and rudder effectively counteract
each other, each serving as a
brake. The backed jib and eased
Blue Water Sailing • June 2006
Seamanship Solutions
main will force the bow down and keep it from
tacking through the wind, while the rudder keeps
the bow angled into the wind and swell. Once
achieving the right balance, the helm can be locked
in place; however, a watchstander should still
maintain lookout.
In theory, heaving-to yields little leeway. While
this may be true for older full-keel boats, modern finkeel boats will find that they slip to leeward. However, most modern boats can heave-to—it is just a
matter of finding the right combination.
When heaving-to most boats require the center of
effort be moved aft. As a result, it often works best to
heave-to with a staysail instead of a jib, if possible.
You can also move the center of effort aft by decreasing the sail area of the jib and/or increasing the sail
area of the main.
In light conditions the boat’s orientation to the
wind and waves matter little. However, when conditions deteriorate and seas begin breaking, it is
important to keep the bow pointed as close to the
swell as possible to avoid taking breaking waves
broadside. Trimming the main or decreasing the sail
area of the jib will allow the boat to lie closer to the
wind and swell. But be careful not to overdo it. If
you are pointed too close to the wind you will be
vulnerable to being pushed through the eye of the
wind and onto the other tack by an odd wave.
Coming to hove-to from running downwind can
be an exhilarating experience, to say the least. When
you begin to turn into the wind, the apparent wind
increases and you are exposed as you come broadside to the seas. Time the turn into the wind with a
lull in the seas. Decrease sail area before you begin
your maneuver. If possible, anticipate the conditions
and heave-to before conditions significantly deteriorate, giving yourself plenty of time to balance your
sails and helm. As conditions worsen you will have to
continually tweak the balance, perhaps even tacking
to keep the bow on the tack where it will head most
directly into the waves.
When heaving to you will slowly make way to
leeward and ahead, so it is important to have plenty
of sea room in both directions. Also you may not
be able to actively avoid large breaking waves. As
such, heaving-to becomes inadvisable in the worst
conditions.
Some sloops will heave-to with main alone eased
out to leeward, countered with the helm to windward. Yawls and ketches may heave-to best using the
mizzen. If having a hard time heaving-to on a sloop,
try moving the center of effort aft by using a riding
sail that you would use at anchor. If hove-to for a
number of days, be sure to inspect the sails and
rigging for wear.
Blue Water Sailing •
June 2006
In order to move the center of effort aft when heaving-to,
shorten sail on the jib more than the main, especially on
sloops where the mast is positioned relatively forward.
While it is possible to heave-to under full main in light
conditions, opposite, heavy weather necessitates shortening
sail. Tweak the trim on the main to adjust the boat’s angle
to the swell. A trimmed main, below, will point the bow
closer to the swell direction
61