DINE

DINE
New Listing
Two 136
Updates
Elizabeth Restaurant 132
Naha 130
Ras Dashen 132
Vermilion 131
WHERE TO EAT
Reviews Pending
Boka 132
The Lobby at
the Peninsula 129
DOWNTOWN 127 NORTH 131 SOUTH 133
WEST 133 SUBURBAN 136
Foie gras at Naha
DOWNTOWN
312 CHICAGO •
Hotel Allegro, 136 N LaSalle. Loop. 312-696-2420. Italian. The-
atregoers rely on this likable spot to get them to the
show on time. Pastas are fail-safe, particularly Luca
Corazzina’s doughy homemade gnocchi with goat
cheese. >> B daily, L Mon–Sat, D Tue–Sun. Br Sun.
g c s e $$
ALLIUM n
Four Seasons Hotel, 120 E Delaware. Gold Coast. 312799-4900. American. By introducing a creative list
of American comfort food classics—from crab
fritters with lobster-caviar dip to cheese-curd
mashed potatoes—the once-staid Four Seasons
lounge radiates a welcome air of playfulness and
whimsy. Bone-in rib eyes with blue cheese fondue
and a homemade Chicago-style hot dog reinvent
the city’s most iconic dishes for the white-tablecloth set, while small plates pull their inspiration from the fields, streams, and campfires of the
Midwest. Think sugar snap peas with guanciale,
brandade-smeared walleye, and a s’more for dessert. The miso butterscotch milk shake will appeal
to ice-cream lovers of all ages. >> B, L & D daily. Br
Sun. g c y (Fri, Sat; snack food only) $$
BAVETTE’S BAR & BOEUF nno
218 W Kinzie. River North. 312-624-8154. American,
steaks. Sure, the rib eye is delicious at Brendan
Sodikoff’s sexy bi-level spot. But the true stunners
are found outside the menu’s steak section. A gigantic meatball nested among chewy hand-cut noodles
is simplicity perfected; ditto the lemony roast chicken and the prime rib sandwich that drips with smoky
Monterey Jack. Augment your meal with the city’s
best old fashioned and a wedge of velvety chocolate
cream pie. >> D nightly. g l (BYO-ers must share
one glass with another table) y (Fri, Sat) $$$$
BENNY’S CHOP HOUSE nn
720 N Wells. River North. 312-280-0720. Wine bar/Contemporary American. Owner and master sommelier Alpana
Precious few steak houses offer both wet- and dryaged prime beef. Count Benny’s in. Grilled romaine
with lemon garlic vinaigrette primes the palate; blue
cheese croquettes among the must-have sides. Panseared walleye with chive butter sauce for seafoodies. Awesome wine list first; rich s’mores cheesecake
last. >> L & D daily. g c y (Fri, Sat) $$$$
BIN 36 •
expendable at this vino-centric draw. >> B, L & D
daily. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$
BISTRONOMIC nn
840 N Wabash. Gold Coast. 312-944-8400. French. Persua-
more Dubai than Chicago, and the food also comes
dressed to impress, with presentations so photoready that one hesitates to dig in. But Greg Biggers
satisfies other senses, too, with flavorful juxtaposi-
444 N Wabash. River North. 312-626-2444. Steaks, seafood.
339 N Dearborn. River North. 312-755-9463. Contemporary
American. With wine and cheese galore, dinner seems
PHOTOGRAPH: PAUL STRABBING
sive renditions of classic bistro fare are served
in intimate, chic surroundings at modest prices.
Portions are Euro-reasonable rather than gut busting; a smart menu makes the most of homey foodstuffs and captures the mood of the season. Salads
(Belgian endive, Caesar) and charcuterie (country
pâté particularly) are well conceived and satisfying.
Recent pleasures included a nicely deconstructed
boeuf bourguignonne with tagliatelle and a tender
glazed short rib with fingerling potatoes and carrot purée. Well-priced wines, mostly French. >> L
Wed–Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c s $$$
BISTRO VOLTAIRE nn
226 W Chicago. River North. 312-265-0911. French. The decor
(black, white, red), music (Piaf ), and menu (onion
soup, snails, crème brûlée) are straight from a Paris
playbook, but astute cooking and a genuinely cozy
vibe in this narrow dining room transcend cliché.
The soup, crusty bread, and paper-wrapped frites
are reassuringly spot-on. More ambitious dishes also
succeed: Expect feather-light puff pastry on the volau-vent, perfectly cooked bright green beans with
the medallions of roast pork, and tangy braised red
cabbage with the seared duck breast. Reasonably
priced, mostly French, wines. A Monday prix fixe
three-course meal is a real deal ($29). >> D Mon–Sat.
g c y (Fri, Sat) $$$
THE BOARDING HOUSE nO
Singh has decked out her four-story wine mecca with
a glitzy array of eye-popping accoutrements. The
first floor glitters with a chandelier fabricated out of
hundreds of dangling wineglasses, while an artfully
lit fourth-floor dining room romantically balances
dark, brooding shadows and dapples of light. You
can’t miss with anything from the wine list, but the
dinner menu lacks focus, offering a head-scratching
mix of North African, Mediterranean, and American
dishes. For the best results, keep it simple, perhaps
with a plate of creamy Burrata topped with fresh
peaches, a meaty pork chop with stone-ground grits
in a hazelnut broth, and a moist olive oil cake topped
with berries. Those interested in a less formal affair
can sip a Chardonnay and enjoy a collection of pizzas and sandwiches in the first-floor wine bar. >> D
nightly. g c s y (Fri, Sat, wine bar) $$$
CAFÉ DES ARCHITECTES nno
HOW WE PICK THE RESTAURANTS These
listings are not advertisements. They are a selective
guide to establishments recommended by Chicago’s
dining critics. Visits are anonymous and all expenses
are paid by Chicago. These listings are updated
regularly. “Update” indicates reappraisals of listed
restaurants.
EDITED BY PENNY POLLACK
Sofitel Chicago Water Tower, 20 E Chestnut. Gold Coast. 312324-4063. Contemporary French. The glossy room feels
Ratings are determined by food quality,
menu selection, service, ambiance, and value.
nnnn = superlative
nnn = excellent
nn = very good
n = good
• = noteworthy
Price symbols indicate the typical
cost of a meal (without tax, tip, or
alcohol) per person.
¢ $10–$19 $ $20–$29
$$ $30–$39
$$$ $40–$49
$$$$ $50-plus
tions of savory and sweet, bold and refined. Serious
wines, nice by-the-glass selection. >> B, L & D daily.
Br Sat, Sun. g c s $$$$
CAFÉ IBERICO •
737 N LaSalle. River North. 312-573-1510. Spanish. Sangría
flows at this lively tapas bar. Best bets: thin ham with
Manchego and tomato bread or the char-grilled octopus with french fries. Pintxos lounge upstairs on
weekends. >> L & D daily. g c e y $
CAFE SPIAGGIA nnn
980 N Michigan. Gold Coast. 312-280-2750. Italian. Dining at
this pretty, less formal sibling of Tony Mantuano’s
Spiaggia affords a great way to experience his artful offerings without breaking the bank. The small
but interesting menu changes daily, and everything
is executed with real mastery. Pastas and seafood
are quietly, memorably dazzling. Impressive wines,
cheeses. >> L & D daily. g c $$$$
THE CAPITAL GRILLE nn
633 N St Clair. Streeterville. 312-337-9400. Steaks. Count
on this CG outpost for cushy booths, gracious service, heaping plates of spicy pan-fried calamari,
top-notch dry-aged porterhouses, and wonderful
butter-poached lobsters. Over-the-top sugary desserts. Encyclopedic wine list, honest cocktails. >>
L Mon–Fri, D nightly. g c e $$$$
CARSON’S •
612 N Wells. River North. 312-280-9200. American, barbecue.
Dig into slabs of hickory-smoked baby backs in a
sweet sauce and au gratin potatoes rich as Rockefeller. (See ribs.com for Deerfield location.) >> L & D
daily. g c s $
CHICAGO CHOP HOUSE no
60 W Ontario. River North. 312-787-7100. Steaks. This
Victorian brownstone has been packing in three
floors of carnivores for a quarter of a century. After a disappointing spell, the quality of the prime
beef is again up to snuff amid the historic Chicago
photos and clinking martini glasses. The variety of
cuts and styles of aging have expanded, with dryaged, wet-aged, and Japanese Mishima all on hand.
But be aware: The $69 dry-aged New York strips
and $169 dry-aged porterhouses are priced as if
they were carved off a golden calf. Maryland crab
cakes or sautéed lake perch make good starters, and
look to the four-cheese au gratin and garlic-sautéed
Broccolini for enjoyable shareable sides. German
chocolate cake a classic whopper. Award-winning
wine list. >> D nightly. c $$$$
COCO PAZZO nno
300 W Hubbard. River North. 312-836-0900. Italian. This stylish
Tuscan attracts downtowners for exciting food and
a vibrant loft-like space. Asparagus flan on a sabayon
spiked with apple-quince saba (reduced fruit juices)
KEY TO SYMBOLS
a
g
c
l
free dinner parking
wheelchair accessible
child friendly
s outdoor dining
e high noise level
y will seat past 11 p.m.
BYO (up to $5 corkage)
APRIL
2014
C H I C AG O M AG . CO M
127
DINE: WHERE TO EAT
RATING INDEX
nnnn Alinea, Sixteen, Spiaggia, Topolobampo, Tru nnno
Acadia, Blackbird, Elizabeth Restaurant, Goosefoot, Grace, Schwa,
Sepia, Vie nnn Cafe Spiaggia, Everest, Les Nomades, L2O, Moto,
Naha, Next, North Pond, Publican, Shanghai Terrace, Takashi, Tallgrass
nno Ada Street, Arun’s, Avec, Balena, Bavette’s Bar & Boeuf, Café
des Architectes, Coco Pazzo, David Burke’s Primehouse, Gemini Bistro,
Gilt Bar, Girl & the Goat, Kai Zan, Katsu, Mirai Sushi, Near, Niche,
Ruxbin, Yoshi’s Café nn Anteprima, A Tavola, ATK Andy’s Thai
Kitchen, Au Cheval, Barrington Country Bistro, Benny’s Chop House,
Big Jones, Bistronomic, Bistro Voltaire, Capital Grille, Carriage House,
Dusek’s, EL Ideas, Found, Frontera Grill, GT Fish & Oyster, Henri, Ing, La
Petite Folie, Longman & Eagle, Lula Café, Mexique, MK, Moon Palace,
Morton’s the Steakhouse, Oceanique, Pelago Ristorante, Perennial
Virant, Piccolo Sogno, Purple Pig, Quince at the Homestead, Restaurant
Michael, Saigon Sisters, Shaw’s Crab House, Spoon Thai, SushiSamba,
Tanta, Tavernita, Taxim, Tocco, Trattoria No. 10, Vermilion, Waterleaf,
Xoco, Yusho no Abigail’s American Bistro, Amelia’s Bar & Grill,
BellyQ, Bistro Campagne, Bite Cafe, Boarding House, Bristol, Café
Ba-Ba-Reeba!, Chez Joël Bistro, Chicago Chop House, Chilam Balam,
Chilapan, Coco Pazzo Café, Davanti Enoteca, Embeya, Francesca’s on
Taylor, Gene & Georgetti, Jin Ju, Lao Beijing, Mana Food Bar, Maxwell’s
at the Club, Mon Ami Gabi, Paris Club, Pho Xe Tang, Piccolo Sogno
Due, Praga, Prairie Grass Cafe, Sable Kitchen & Bar, ¡Salpicón!, Shokran
Moroccan Restaurant, Smith & Wollensky, Sola, Table Fifty-Two, Tank
Sushi, Tesori, Topaz Cafe n Allium, Amarind’s, Antico, Antique Taco,
Arami, Belly Shack, Chef’s Station, Curry Hut Restaurant, Fogo de Chão,
Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, HotChocolate, I Am Siam, India House,
Inovasi, Joe’s Seafood, Keefer’s, La Sardine, Le Bouchon, Libertad,
Nacional 27, Nightwood, Ras Dashen, Thai Pastry Restaurant, Three
Aces, Troquet, Tub Tim Thai, Two, Vivere, Wildfish • 312 Chicago, Ann
Sather, Bin 36, Bistrot Margot, Bob Chinn’s Crab House, Café Iberico,
Carson’s, D & J Bistro, Ed Debevic’s, Edelweiss, Fat Willy’s, Francesca’s
on Taylor, Gage, Goose Island Brewpub, Harry Caray’s, Heaven on
Seven, Home Run Inn, Le Colonial, Le Vichyssois, Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria,
Manny’s Cafeteria & Delicatessen, Mike Ditka’s, Mr. Beef, Park Grill,
Pegasus, Pizano’s Pizza & Pasta, Pizzeria Uno, Pleasant House Bakery,
R.J. Grunts, Rosebud, Russian Tea Time, Sakura Japanese Restaurant,
Smoque BBQ, Sunda, Tufano’s Vernon Park Tap, Twin Anchors, Village,
Vinci, Walker Bros. Original Pancake House
Chef’s Station, Praga Deli Manny’s Ethiopian Ras Dashen French
Barrington Country Bistro, Bistro Campagne, Bistronomic, Bistrot
Margot, Bistro Voltaire, Café des Architectes, Chez Joël, D & J Bistro,
Ever­est, Henri, La Petite Folie, La Sardine, Le Bouchon, Les Nomades,
Le Vichyssois, Mon Ami Gabi, Paris Club, Restaurant Michael, Troquet
German Edelweiss Greek Pegasus, Taxim Indian Curry Hut, India
House, Vermilion Italian 312 Chicago, Anteprima, Antico, A Tavola,
Balena, Cafe Spiag­gia, Coco Pazzo, Coco Pazzo Café, Davanti,
Francesca’s on Taylor, Harry Caray’s, Mr. Beef, Near, Pelago, Piccolo
Sogno, Piccolo Sogno Due, Rosebud, Spi­aggia, Tesori, Tocco, Trattoria
No. 10, Tufano’s, Village, Vinci, Vivere Japanese Yusho Korean Jin
Ju Mediterranean Ada Street, Avec, Purple Pig Mexican Amelia’s,
Antique Taco, Chilam Balam, Chilapan, Frontera, Libertad, ¡Salpicón!,
Topolobampo, Xoco Mexican-French Mexique Moroccan Shokran
Moroccan Pan-Asian BellyQ, Embeya, Shanghai Terrace, Sunda PanHispanic Nacional 27, SushiSamba Pizza Home Run Inn, Lou Malnati’s,
Pizano’s, Pizzeria Uno Progressive EL Ideas Russian Russian Tea
Time Seafood Benny’s, Bob Chinn’s, GT Fish & Oyster, Joe’s, Keefer’s,
L2O, Piccolo Sogno Due, Shaw’s Spanish Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!, Café
Iberico, Tavernita Steaks Bavette’s, Benny’s, Capital Grille, Chicago
Chop House, David Burke’s, Gene & Georgetti, Gibsons, Harry Caray’s,
Joe’s, Keefer’s, Mike Ditka’s, Morton’s, Smith & Wollensky Sushi/
Japanese Arami, Kai Zan, Katsu, Mirai Sushi, Sakura, SushiSamba,
Tank Sushi, Wildfish Thai Amarind’s, Arun’s, ATK Andy’s Thai Kitchen,
I Am Siam, Spoon Thai, Thai Pastry, Tub Tim Vegetarian Mana
Vietnamese Le Colonial, Pho Xe Tang, Saigon Sisters
Mike Ditka’s, Niche, Perennial Virant, Piccolo Sogno, Piccolo Sogno
Due, Quince, Ruxbin, ¡Salpicón!, Sola, Sunda, SushiSamba, Tavernita,
Tesori, Topaz, Trattoria No. 10, Two, Vivere, Yoshi’s $$ 312 Chicago,
Abigail’s, Allium, Anteprima, Antico, Arami, A Tavola, Au Cheval, Avec,
Big Jones, Bin 36, Bistro Campagne, Bristol, Carriage House, Chez
Joël, Chilapan, Coco Pazzo Café, D & J Bistro, Embeya, Francesca’s on
Taylor, Gemini Bistro, Girl & the Goat, HotChocolate, Inovasi, Kai Zan,
La Petite Folie, La Sardine, Le Bouchon, Le Colonial, Le Vichyssois,
Libertad, Longman & Eagle, Lula Café, Mexique, Mon Ami Gabi,
Nacional 27, Near, Nightwood, Praga, Publican, Purple Pig, Russian Tea
Time, Sable Kitchen, Saigon Sisters, Sakura, Tank Sushi, Tanta, Taxim,
Tocco, Village, Vinci, Waterleaf, Wildfish, Yusho $ Ada Street, BellyQ,
Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!, Café Iberico, Carson’s, Chilam Balam, Curry Hut,
Davanti, Dusek’s, Edelweiss, Fat Willy’s, Found, Goose Island, I Am
Siam, India House, Jin Ju, Lao Beijing, Lou Malnati’s, Mana, Maxwell’s,
Paris Club, Park Grill, Pegasus, Pizano’s, Prairie Grass, Ras Dashen,
Rosebud, Shokran Moroccan, Smoque BBQ, Troquet, Twin Anchors,
Xoco ¢ Amarind’s, Antique Taco, ATK Andy’s Thai Kitchen, Ann Sather,
Belly Shack, Bite Cafe, Ed Debevic’s, Heaven on Seven, Home Run Inn,
Manny’s, Moon Palace, Mr. Beef, Pho Xe Tang, Pizzeria Uno, Pleasant
House, R.J. Grunts, Shokran Moroccan, Spoon Thai, Thai Pastry, Three
Aces, Tub Tim Thai, Tufano’s, Walker Bros.
Table Fifty-Two, Tanta, Tavernita, Tesori, Topolobampo, Trattoria No.
10, Tru, Vermilion, Village, Vivere, Xoco North Ada Street, Alinea, Ann
Sather, Anteprima, Arun’s, ATK Andy’s Thai Kitchen, Balena, Big Jones,
Bistro Campagne, Bistrot Margot, Boka, Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!, Chilam
Balam, Elizabeth, Gemini Bistro, Goosefoot, Goose Island, Jin Ju, Katsu,
L2O, Mon Ami Gabi, North Pond, Perennial Virant, Pho Xe Tang, Ras
Dashen, R.J. Grunts, ¡Salpicón!, Shokran Moroccan, Smoque BBQ, Sola,
Spoon Thai, Tank Sushi, Thai Pastry, Troquet, Twin Anchors, Vinci,
Yoshi’s South Acadia, Amelia’s, Dusek’s, Home Run Inn, Lao Beijing, La
Petite Folie, Manny’s, Moon Palace, Nightwood, Pleasant House West
Amarind’s, Antico, Antique Taco, Arami, A Tavola, Au Cheval, Avec,
BellyQ, Belly Shack, Bite, Blackbird, Bristol, Carriage House, Chez Joël,
Chilapan, Davanti, EL Ideas, Embeya, Fat Willy’s, Francesca’s on Taylor,
Girl & the Goat, Grace, HotChocolate, Ing, Kai Zan, La Sardine, Le
Bouchon, Longman & Eagle, Lula Café, Mana Food Bar, Mexique, Mirai
Sushi, Moto, Next, Pegasus, Piccolo Sogno, Publican, Rosebud, Ruxbin,
Schwa, Sepia, Takashi, Taxim, Three Aces, Tocco, Tufano’s, Two, Yusho
Suburban Abigail’s, Barrington Country Bistro, Bob Chinn’s, Chef’s
Station, Curry Hut, D & J Bistro, Edelweiss, Found, I Am Siam, Inovasi,
Le Vichyssois, Libertad, Lou Malnati’s, Near, Niche, Oceanique, Praga,
Prairie Grass, Quince, Restaurant Michael, Sakura, Tallgrass, Topaz, Tub
Tim, Vie, Walker Bros., Waterleaf, Wildfish
CUISINE INDEX
American Allium, Ann Sather, Au Cheval, Bavette’s, Bite, Bristol,
Carson’s, Ed Debevic’s, Elizabeth, Found, Gemini Bistro, Goose
Island, HotChocolate, Longman & Eagle, Maxwell’s, Nightwood, Park
Grill, Perennial Virant, R.J. Grunts, Sable, Walker Bros., Waterleaf
American Southern Big Jones, Carriage House, Table Fifty-Two
Asian-Latin Belly Shack Barbecue Carson’s, Fat Willy’s, Smoque
BBQ, Twin Anchors Brazilian Fogo de Chão British Pleasant House
Cajun/Creole Heaven on Seven Chinese Lao Beijing, Moon Palace
Contemporary Abigail’s, Acadia, Alinea, Bin 36, Blackbird, Boka,
Boarding House, Gage, Gilt Bar, Girl & the Goat, Goosefoot, Grace,
Ing, Inovasi, Lobby, L2O, Lula, MK, Moto, Naha, Next, Niche, North
Pond, Prairie Grass, Publican, Quince, Ruxbin, Schwa, Sepia, Sixteen,
Sola, Takashi, Tallgrass, Topaz, Tru, Two, Vie, Yoshi’s Continental
PRICE INDEX
$$$$ Acadia, Alinea, Arun’s, Bavette’s, Benny’s, Blackbird, Boka, Café
des Architectes, Cafe Spiaggia, Capital Grille, Chicago Chop House,
Coco Pazzo, David Burke’s, EL Ideas, Elizabeth, Everest, Fogo de Chão,
Frontera Grill, Gene & Georgetti, Gibsons, Goosefoot, Grace, Henri,
Ing, Joe’s, Katsu, Keefer’s, L2O, Les Nomades, Lobby, Mirai Sushi, MK,
Moto, Morton’s, Naha, Next, North Pond, Oceanique, Pelago, Restaurant
Michael, Schwa, Sepia, Shanghai Terrace, Shaw’s, Sixteen, Smith &
Wollensky, Spiaggia, Table Fifty-Two, Takashi, Tallgrass,Topolobampo,
Tru, Vermilion, Vie $$$ Amelia’s, Balena, Barrington Country Bistro,
Bistronomic, Bistro Voltaire, Bistrot Margot, Boarding House, Bob
Chinn’s, Chef’s Station, Gage, Gilt Bar, GT Fish & Oyster, Harry Caray’s,
LOCATION INDEX
Downtown 312 Chicago, Allium, Bavette’s, Benny’s, Bin 36,
Bistronomic, Bistro Voltaire, Boarding House, Café des Architectes, Café
Iberico, Cafe Spiaggia, Capital Grille, Carson’s, Chicago Chop House,
Coco Pazzo, Coco Pazzo Café, David Burke’s, Ed Debevic’s, Everest,
Fogo de Chão, Frontera Grill, Gage, Gene & Georgetti, Gibsons, Gilt
Bar, GT Fish & Oyster, Harry Caray’s, Heaven on Seven, Henri, India
House, Joe’s, Keefer’s, Le Colonial, Les Nomades, Lobby, Maxwell’s,
Mike Ditka’s, MK, Morton’s, Mr. Beef, Nacional 27, Naha, Paris Club,
Park Grill, Pelago, Piccolo Sogno Due, Pizano’s, Pizzeria Uno, Purple
Pig, Russian Tea Time, Sable Kitchen, Saigon Sisters, Shanghai Terrace,
Shaw’s, Sixteen, Smith & Wollensky, Spiaggia, Sunda, SushiSamba,
128
C H I C AG O M AG .CO M
APRIL
2014
and topped with a poached egg, excellent daily risotto, and spicy seafood stew followed by a chocolate
caramel tart with caraway, orange-caramel mousse,
and pistachio nib gelato make a winning meal. Gems
abound in a 200-plus Italian wine list. >> L Mon–Fri,
D nightly. g c $$$$
COCO PAZZO CAFÉ no
636 N St Clair. Streeterville. 312-664-2777. Italian. The more
casual sibling of River North’s Coco Pazzo, this bustling café draws much of its clientele from the neighborhood’s many hotels, but locals like it, too. (The
sidewalk tables are a big draw in warm weather.) Pastas, risottos, and other tastes of Tuscany range from
pleasantly straightforward to timidly inoffensive. On
recent visits, favorite bites came from the beautiful,
bountiful antipasti table—not just terrific grilled,
braised, and roasted vegetables that with wine and
bread would make a dandy meal on their own, but
also an impressive rustic apple crostata for dessert.
>> L & D daily. g c s $$
DAVID BURKE’S PRIMEHOUSE nno
The James, 616 N Rush. River North. 312-660-6000. Steaks,
seafood. Besides first-rate beef, this standout boasts
creative appetizers and enticing nonsteak options.
That means tableside Caesar salad, surf-and-turf
dumplings, crackling pork shank, and a rich chocolate
cake with s’mores ice cream. >> B daily, L Mon–Fri, D
nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c s $$$$
ED DEBEVIC’S •
640
N
Wells.
River
North.
312-664-1707.
American.
Pseudo-’50s diner where oldies music and dancing
waiters are all part of the playful vibe. Burgers, fries,
and creamy malts. >> B Sat, Sun; L & D daily. g c e ¢
EVEREST nnn
440 S. LaSalle. South Loop. 312-663-8920. French. Jean
Joho’s Alsatian-inflected cuisine is as haute as ever,
befitting this dining room’s perch on the 40th floor
of the Chicago Stock Exchange, with spectacular
views of the city below. The home-smoked salmon
is still delicate, the risotto rich, the sturgeon wild,
and the meringue-based Alsace vacherin as pretty
a dessert as you might wish for. But such excellence makes missteps stand out. Oversalted salad, a
snoozy striped bass entrée, and tepid coffee weren’t
the only disappointments recently; service seemed
disengaged and the whole experience a bit stodgy.
Three courses, $94; four, $120; seven-course degustation, $165. World-class wine list. >> D Tue–Sat. a
(free valet) g $$$$
FOGO DE CHÃO n
661 N LaSalle. River North. 312-932-9330. Brazilian. This macho magnet is the best Brazilian steak house still
standing. Garlic mashed potatoes and warm cheese
bread make way for a $51.50 all-you-can-eat avalanche of tender, well-seasoned meat. There is a
salad bar–only option ($26.50). Skip the pricey wines.
>> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. g c $$$$
FRONTERA GRILL nn
445 N Clark. River North. 312-661-1434. Mexican. Once groundbreaking, now a hallowed Chicago institution, Rick
Bayless’s colorful, Mexican art–saturated flagship is
the place to savor authentic and scrumptious regional
dishes and stellar margaritas. Seviches are a must, as
are fresh corn tamales and anything sauced with mole,
such as woodland mushrooms and huitlacoche enchiladas in yellow Oaxacan mole. Tempting daily specials
include Bayless’s renowned chiles rellenos on Thursday. Pressing crowds mean that lines are long, reservations difficult to snare, pacing can falter, and the din is
somewhere between fiesta and riot. >> L Tue–Fri, D
Tue–Sat. Br Sat. g c s e $$$$
THE GAGE •
24 S Michigan. Loop. 312-372-4243. Contemporary. Prime
digs near Millennium Park and ritzy comfort food
such as vindaloo mussels, locally crafted sausage,
and a prime burger keep this gastropub abuzz. >>
L & D daily. Br Sat, Sun. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$$
GENE & GEORGETTI no
500 N Franklin. River North. 312-527-3718. Steaks, Italian. Chicken, seafood, and Italian options take a back seat to the
wet-aged prime beef at this iconic steak house. Iceberg
salad and ho-hum potatoes accompany most entrées.
The place could not be any less hip, but that’s a small
sacrifice for steaks this good—it can stay frozen in time
forever. >> L & D Mon–Sat. a (free valet) g c y
(Fri, Sat) $$$$
GIBSONS BAR & STEAKHOUSE n
1028 N Rush. Gold Coast. 312-266-8999. Steaks, seafood. This
mecca of meat attracts scenesters and tourists who
like their beef prime and their martinis huge. There
are T-bones and New York strips, but if price matters,
look to the meatloaf. Bakery-size cakes are overkill.
(Rosemont, 847-928-9900; Oak Brook, 630-954-0000)
>> L & D daily. g c s e y $$$$
GILT BAR Nno
230 W Kinzie. River North. 312-464-9544. Contemporary American. Brendan Sodikoff’s debut project mixes gilt and
shadows, but ace servers keep things light, steering
you through the menu of notched-up comfort food.
Splurge on the blatantly hearty meat dishes, such
as a delicious 20- to 25-ounce rib eye. Intriguing
cocktails and impeccably curated beer list. Fudgy
brownies satisfy with simplicity. >> D nightly. g
c l (BYO-ers must share one glass with another
table) s e y (Fri, Sat) $$$
GT FISH & OYSTER nn
531 N Wells. River North. 312-929-3501. Seafood. The trendoids rule at Giuseppe Tentori’s slick small-plate
draw. The cold dishes are good, but hot dishes are
great—especially the oyster po’ boy sliders and the
just-different-enough clam chowder. A foie gras and
shrimp terrine actually tastes like a natural coupling,
while a coconut sundae with French curry ice cream
tastes atypical. No—special. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly.
Br Sat, Sun. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$$
HARRY CARAY’S •
33 W Kinzie. River North. 312-828-0966. Steaks, Italian. Sports
fans flock to this building to honor the Cubs legend
while devouring aged prime steaks, chops, and Italian
American faves such as chicken Vesuvio. Big wine list.
(See harrycarays.com for all three locations.) >> L & D
daily. g c s $$$
HEAVEN ON SEVEN •
111 N Wabash. Loop. 312-263-6443. Cajun/Creole. Chummy
seventh-floor lunch spot renowned for its gumbos
thicker than quicksand and po’ boys rich in breaded
oysters, shrimp, and catfish. Cash only. Dinner nightly
at other locations (Gold Coast, 312-280-7774; Naperville, 630-717-0777). >> B & L Mon–Sat, D (third Fri of
the month only). g c ¢
HENRI nn
18 S Michigan. Loop. 312-578-0763. French. Consistently
good but rarely surprising, Chris Gawronski’s classic
French dishes and Frenchy inventions show elegance
and taste to match the attractive dining room. Risks
such as figs with lobster and pumpkin with tuna crudo
succeed, but a few tricks—tea and foie gras touches,
pouring tableside—get old in a hurry. The tourist-heavy
traffic along Michigan Avenue spurs safe-sounding
menu items along with tourist prices. Good cocktails;
creative but expensive wine list. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly.
g c s $$$$
INDIA HOUSE n
59 W Grand. River North. 312-645-9500. Indian. Pity poor
Indian cuisine. While East Asian fusionistas garner
accolades and the spotlight from New York to Chicago to L.A., South Asian cooking seems incapable of
breaking through. For every haute Indian joint that
opens, one closes, and for every tandoori taco that
pops up, another disappears. But who really cares, if
they’re feasting on falling-apart-tender goat curry or
coconutty chicken or aloo tikki—little potato patties
doused with yogurt, mint, and tamarind. Vegetarians
take note: There’s a thali here with your name on it.
(See indiahousechicago.com for all locations.) >> L &
D daily. g c $
JOE’S SEAFOOD, PRIME STEAK & STONE CRAB n
60 E Grand. River North. 312-379-5637. Steaks, seafood. Crowds
flock to this brawny emporium, though there’s better
prime beef out there for the prices. Look instead to the
wonderful stone crab claws, excellent grilled mahimahi with chimichurri and jicama slaw, and luscious
Key lime pie. >> L & D daily. Br Sat, Sun. g c y
(Fri, Sat) $$$$
KEEFER’S n
20 W Kinzie. River North. 312-467-9525. Steaks, seafood. A tender New York strip and fries totals $55, but that’s par
for the course for steaks in Chicago. Jumbo lump crab
cake lives up to its the name, and the hulking smoked
pork chop is deftly handled. Sides include rich garlic
mashed potatoes. For dessert, a solid apple tart. >> L
Mon–Fri, D Mon–Sat. g c s e $$$$
LE COLONIAL •
937 N Rush. Gold Coast. 312-255-0088. Vietnamese. Go for
the lovely colonial Vietnamese decor. Stay for the
bistro-meets-Asian eats, including bouillabaisse, filet
mignon with yams, and excellent curries. >> L & D
daily. g c s e y (Thu–Sat) $$
LES NOMADES nnn
222 E Ontario. Streeterville. 312-649-9010. French. The gilded
vibe at this Richie Rich throwback extends to Roland Liccioni’s four-course prix fixe menu, which
bursts with sumptuous flavors. Highlights include
a magnificent Kobe beef filet with trumpet royale
mushrooms and shallot sauce and an arctic char with
a maitake mushroom, resting on forbidden rice and
a sauce of yellow tomato and lemongrass. The wine
list is impressive, the staff completely affable. Prix
fixe options: three courses, $65 (before 5:30 p.m.);
four courses, $115; five courses, $130. >> D Tue–Sat.
l (Thu only) $$$$
REVIEW PENDING
THE LOBBY AT THE PENINSULA
The Peninsula, 108 E Superior. Gold Coast. 312-337-2888. Contemporary. Mike Wehrle, executive chef for the hotel,
has pledged to maintain the high standards set by Lee
Wolen (now chef-partner at Boka), whose à la carte offerings in this airy fifth-floor room were intelligent, satisfying, and delicious, synthesizing divergent textures
and flavors. A string duo plays familiar pop songs from
a balcony while prompt and charming servers take
care of diners—and keep bringing extras galore. >> B
daily, L Mon–Sat, D nightly. Br Sun. Tea service daily.
g c $$$$
MAXWELL’S AT THE CLUB no
East Bank Club, 500 N Kingsbury. River North. 312-527-5800.
American. You don’t have to be a member of the East
Bank Club to enjoy this comfy nook, where dinners
start with an impressive breadbasket and relish platter
and segue into solid offerings of salads, sandwiches,
steaks, seafood, and pasta. Respectful service evokes
memories of a kinder, more accommodating era. >> L
& D Mon–Fri. Br Sun. g c (brunch only) $
MIKE DITKA’S •
Tremont Hotel, 100 E Chestnut. Gold Coast. 312-587-8989.
Steaks. Da Coach himself often shows up for wedge
salads, Angus rib eyes, and banana cream pies at the
manliest spot in the Gold Coast. >> L & D daily. Br Sun.
g c s e $$$
MK nn
868 N Franklin. River North. 312-482-9179. Contemporary. This
cavernous multilevel dining room get booked up
weeks in advance. Surely the grilled baby octopus
enhanced by endive, preserved lemon, golden raisins,
and aïoli has something to do with it. There’s also gnocchi with fava beans and a poached egg, as well as
fresh fluke with Brussels sprouts and salsify. Desserts
shine, especially Lisa Bonjour’s s’mores with graham
cracker ice cream. >> D nightly. g c $$$$
MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE nn
Newberry Plaza, 1050 N State. Gold Coast. 312-266-4820. Steaks,
seafood. This standby is still one of the best steak houses
in Chicago. The superb wet-aged Midwestern grainfed beef, broiled at 1,800 degrees, has one heckuva char.
Seafood options stay the course, from jumbo lump
crab cakes to fresh Maine lobsters. Finish with cloudlight soufflés. (For all locations, see mortons.com.) >>
D nightly. g c $$$$
MR. BEEF •
666 N Orleans. River North. 312-337-8500. Italian. Chicago’s
most hallowed Italian beef is at this shack, which
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and coolest ice rink in winter. American classics—
chopped salad, a burger, cheesecake—are on target.
The bad news: It’s always crowded. >> L & D daily. Br
Sun. g c s $$
PELAGO RISTORANTE nn
Raffaello Hotel, 201 E Delaware. Streeterville. 312-280-0700. Italian. Stuffy, self-important, and overpriced, this luxury
restaurant nevertheless serves adept and occasionally transcendent food. Veal-filled ravioli in a pistachio cream sauce and braised-beef risotto in a red
wine sauce with gremolata travel in a higher plane,
and homemade love shows in the pastas. >> L & D
daily. g s $$$$
PICCOLO SOGNO DUE no
340 N Clark. River North. 312-822-0077. Italian. Piccolo
Sogno’s seafoody sister extends the design and ambiance of the original but undershoots foodwise.
For every bull’s-eye, such as tagliolini with crabmeat, sea urchin, and garlic, there’s an off-center
shot, such as greasy, unrefined rabbit in sherry
sauce. Faultless technique and attractive presentations, however, bump up all dishes. Overall, wise
choices and good wines can make a winning meal.
Thoughtful, helpful service. >> L Mon–Fri, D
nightly. g c s $$$
PIZANO’S PIZZA & PASTA •
864 N State. Gold Coast. 312-751-1766. Pizza. Rudy Malnati Jr. carries on the tradition of Chicago-style
pizza in this festive spot. The buttery deep-dish remains among Chicago’s best. (See pizanoschicago
.com for all locations.) >> L & D daily. g c y $
PIZZERIA UNO •
29 E Ohio. River North. 312-321-1000. Pizza. This is where
deep-dish started, and it remains the place for the
genre. If it’s crowded, send someone to stand in line at
Due a block away (619 N Wabash, 312-943-2400). >> L
& D daily. g c s y (Mon–Sat) $
THE PURPLE PIG nn
500 N Michigan. River North. 312-464-1744. Mediterranean.
Crammed into the equivalent of a studio apartment,
the Purple Pig isn’t for those seeking solitude or
romance. It is, however, for those seeking dazzling
small plates. Try the crispy chicken kebabs with
homemade tzatziki, spearmint peas with bacon, and
fried P’tit Basque cheese with quince paste. The diverse wine and beer lists, which offer treats for all
tastes and price points, gives the place a local vibe.
>> L & D daily. g c s e y $$
RUSSIAN TEA TIME •
77 E Adams. Loop. 312-360-0000. Russian. Gracious Old
World setting and menu mean eastern Euro hits, such
as lush beef stroganoff. Flavored vodkas offer further
intrigue; good pretheatre choice. >> L & D daily. Tea
service (2:30–4:30 p.m.). g c $$
SABLE KITCHEN & BAR no
Hotel Palomar, 505 N State. River North. 312-755-9704. American. With half and full portions available for most
items, Heather Terhune’s menu is fresh and playful, if
slightly mind-boggling. The best dishes reside in the
“Between Bread” section, which boasts seriously succulent sliders. The restaurant has an awkward setup,
but after a few of mixologist Mike Ryan’s cocktails,
you tend to get over it. >> B Mon–Fri, D nightly. Br Sat,
Sun. g c s y (bar) $$
SAIGON SISTERS nn
567 W Lake. West Loop. 312-496-0090. Contemporary Vietnamese. This uber-urban room offers banh mi and soups
at lunch and an ambitious upscale menu at dinner.
That’s when to try global turns on classic Vietnamese dishes, such as a quinoa salad of hen of the woods
mushrooms and baby eggplant with garlic shallot purée. Share the cao lau: fresh egg noodles to mix with
braised pork cheeks, Chinese broccoli, pork rinds,
fish cake, and sambal. Impressive wines. >> L Mon–
Fri, D Mon–Sat. g e $$
SHANGHAI TERRACE nnn
The Peninsula, 108 E Superior. Gold Coast. 312-573-6744. PanAsian. The antithesis of your typical oversize, unfo-
cused hotel restaurant, this intimate and elegant
re-creation of a 1930s Shanghai supper club honors
classical Cantonese cooking. Try some dim sum
(steamed chicken and Shanghai dumplings), consider garlic lobster with rice noodles for an entrée,
or splurge on delicacies such as slow-braised abalone
and bird’s nest soup. Have cocktails on the terrace for
a stunning view. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. g c s
(weekday lunch and nightly dinner, in season) $$$$
SHAW’S CRAB HOUSE nn
21 E Hubbard. River North. 312-527-2722. Seafood. Fresh shellfish lures a crowd to this multiroom haven for briny
oysters, hefty crab legs, lobster, griddled shrimp, sweet
marble-size Nantucket Cape scallops, and sushi. Fin-
PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF LETTUCE ENTERTAIN YOU
boasts the same thin-sliced beef, hot or sweet peppers,
and soggy French roll as always. Cash only. >> L Mon–
Sat, D Fri, Sat. a g y (Fri, Sat) ¢
NACIONAL 27 n
325 W Huron. River North. 312-664-2727. Latin American. PanLatin’s day has come and gone, but Nacional 27 soldiers on, slinging Mojitos and tiny tacos (with crispy
shells!) like it’s 1998. At 11 p.m. on the weekends, dancers descend. Until then, you can feast on a handsome
hunk of short rib in ancho chili sauce or fork-tender
suckling pig over mashed boniato. Giggle at the mini
tacos if you like, but you’ll gobble them up all the same.
Finish with a tres leches cake, and you might ask yourself why that marvelous confection has yet to make
the jump to mainstream ubiquity. Who’s ahead of the
curve now? >> D Mon–Sat. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$
UPDATE NAHA nnn
500 N Clark. River North. 312-321-6242. Contemporary. Carrie Nahabedian’s white-tablecloth space shows a certain
nostalgia for fine dining past, with its civilized, luxurious atmosphere. Nevertheless, the kitchen’s dazzling innovations display finesse and vision in dishes sculpted around premium ingredients procured
globally and locally. For example, a generously
portioned foie gras appetizer sits atop a tarte Tatin,
which incorporates the flavors of pineapple quince
and cranberry to boost the foie’s rich indulgence.
A venison entrée benefits from juniper berry juice,
pork belly, candied pecans, and parsnips in several
textures. Not too loud, not too flashy, Naha comes off
poised and elegant. Expensive but excellent wines.
>> L Mon–Fri, D Mon–Sat. g c s $$$$
PARIS CLUB BISTRO & BAR no
59 W Hubbard. River North. 312-595-0800. French. (Closed
six weeks, starting January 6, for the addition of a
ramen bar) Jerrod and R.J. Melman have created a
trendy spot for the masses. You can build a meal of
hit-and-miss small plates, such as French onion “fondue,” but you will find true romance with the classics.
Start with a charcuterie board or the Grand Provençal vegetable plate, then move on to a caramelized
pork belly. Finish with the incredible apple strudel.
>> D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c e y (Wed–Sat) $$
PARK GRILL •
11 N Michigan. Millennium Park. 312-521-7275. American. The
good news: It has the city’s largest patio in summer
ish with at least one slice of sublime raspberry pie. (In
Schaumburg, 847-517-2722; details may differ.) >> L &
D daily. Br Sun. g c e $$$$
SIXTEEN nnnn
Trump International Hotel & Tower, 401 N Wabash. River North.
312-588-8030. Contemporary. Thomas Lents makes the
art of creating magnificent food for one of the most
opulent high-profile dining rooms in town seem like
a perfectly natural thing for a person to do. One dish
after another impresses with seasonal savoir-faire
and artistry that never veers into preciousness. The
view, of course, is also amazing. Tasting menus: 4
courses, $110; 8 courses, $150; 16 courses, $210. Serious wine program. >> B daily, L Mon–Sat, D nightly.
Br Sun. g c s $$$$
SMITH & WOLLENSKY no
318 N State. River North. 312-670-9900. Steaks, seafood. A
bustling, masculine interior and ringside seats to the
Chicago River set the scene for seafood appetizers
and dry-aged steaks. Start with scary-large (and scarypriced, at $21) cocktail shrimp with green goddess ginger sauce and then focus on bone-in filets or Kansas
City sirloins. Downstairs grill more casual. Extensive
wine list, mostly American. Service on autopilot. >> L
& D daily. Br Sat, Sun. g c s y $$$$
SPIAGGIA nnnn
980 N Michigan. Gold Coast. 312-280-2750. Italian. (Closed
for renovations January–March; some menu items
available at Cafe Spiaggia) In a soaring space with
perfect service, Tony Mantuano takes the finest
delicacies—from Savini black truffles to Venetian
clams—and fashions exquisite fare. Crescenza-filled
ravioletto with porcini and nepitella (herb), finished
with barilotto di bufala cheese, is stunning, ditto the
wood-roasted black cod with abalone mushrooms,
bottarga, and basil-fed snails. Dessertwise, the huckleberry brioche with passion fruit sorbetto scores. >>
D nightly. g c $$$$
SUNDA •
110 W Illinois. River North. 312-644-0500. Pan-Asian. Nobody
really comes to this sleek nightclubby spot for the
reimagined and goofily named Asian dishes—people
come for the flashy cocktails and the scene. But as long
as you’re here, don’t miss the Devil’s Basket of spicy
soft-shell crabs. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun.
g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$$
SUSHISAMBA nn
504 N Wells. River North. 312-595-2300. Japanese, Pan-Latin.
This party atmo pleases with flashy cocktails and
small plates of Latin-Japanese blended creations.
Fried calamari with plantain and tamarind is a big
winner. Sushi spinoffs include fat Samba rolls. Share
an assortment of four sashimi seviches and tiraditos and an order of skewered robata. Service can be
helter-skelter, but it almost seems apropos. >> L & D
daily. Br Sat, Sun. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$$
TABLE FIFTY-TWO no
52 W Elm. Gold Coast. 312-573-4000. American Southern. Serving straight-up Southern cooking in a charming setting, T52 is a study in contrasts. Classics include
shrimp and killer grits and perfectly fried catfish.
But chef Art Smith also wows with a decidedly unSouthern duck leg with beluga lentils, braised cabbage,
green curry, and cherry wine. The pear and apple tart
features intense caramel ice cream. >> D Tue–Sun. Br
Sun. g (side entrance) c s $$$$
TANTA nn
118 W Grand. River North. 312-222-9700. Peruvian. Gastón
Acurio, Peru’s premier chef and culinary ambassador,
promised big in this colorful spot—and he delivers.
The latest outpost of his empire, which stretches from
Barcelona to San Francisco, synthesizes the fascinating complexities of Peruvian cuisine, whereby Asian
and African flavors weave in and out seamlessly. The
giant menu covers admirable ground: impressive seviches such as the Japanese-influenced version of ahi
tuna, avocado, cucumber, and tamarind; anticuchos
such as skewered chimichurri octopus with fried garlic and olive sauce; a ginormous and juicy pollo a la
brasa with three aji sauces and arroz con choclo (rice
with sweet corn, cream, and cheese). The rib eye a lo
pobre, a terrific take on a classic Afro-Peruvian dish,
consists of 20 ounces of wet-aged, grass-fed beef slathered in chorrillana sauce, topped with a fried egg, and
bottomed with a rice-and-bean pancake—one of the
best new dishes of the year. Bonuses: fun desserts (try
the oozy las trufas de chocolate with lemongrass ice
cream), stiff cocktails, and sharp service. >> D nightly.
g c s y (Fri, Sat) $$
TAVERNITA nn
151 W Erie. River North. 312-274-1111. Spanish. Flavor-packed
small plates, kegged cocktails by the Tippling Bros.,
an ebullient staff, and a gorgeous, tipsy crowd cram
into a sharp gold-toned space. The menu salutes Spain
with Faroe Island salmon crudo, blistered pimientos
de padrón, and housemade pappardelle. Desserts are
a letdown, but no one seems to care—especially after
midnight. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. Br Sun. g c s
e y (Fri, Sat) $$$
TESORI no
65 E Adams. Loop. 312-786-9911. Italian. A pretheatre option
you can actually get excited about, Tesori doubles as
a much-needed addition to the Italian dining sphere.
Located in the former Rhapsody space, this spot
boasts a large, handsome room and a menu that both
your Uncle Louie and your kale-worshiping hipster
friends can get down with. The grilled octopus with
artichoke, farro, barley, and wild rice meets the standards of some of the city’s best restaurants. The kitchen excels at pasta; don’t miss the pappardelle with rabbit ragu. Other than the juicy roast chicken, however,
entrées are the weak link. Full of flourish, desserts
make for an appropriately theatrical finale. >> L & D
daily. g c s $$$
TOPOLOBAMPO nnnn
445 N Clark. River North. 312-661-1434. Mexican. Rick Bayless
forages in remote nooks of Mexico and in the kitchens of its most creative chefs to bring back incomparable new dishes to the most ambitious of his three
restaurants on this busy corner. Lately, a Baja chef
inspired him to offer olive-wood-smoked quail with
homemade duck prosciutto. Spurred by a Mexico
City chef, Bayless offered octopus and squid in aspic
with molecular-cuisine-style beads of squid ink and
tomato. Yet you will always find classics, such as aged
prime rib eye in Oaxacan black mole. The pleasure
continues straight through dessert, perhaps a frozen peanut parfait with bittersweet chocolate sauce,
ground cherry compote, and candied chicharrón.
Smooth service; intriguing wines and tequilas. >> L
Tue–Fri, D Tue–Sat. g c $$$$
TRATTORIA NO. 10 nn
10 N Dearborn. Loop. 312-984-1718. Italian. Snazzier than
most trattorias, this subterranean spot is a haven for
fans of eco-friendly Italian fare. Consider Burrata
and speck with pesto or an arugula-sprout salad for
a knockout appetizer, and don’t miss one of the topnotch housemade pastas (served in full and half portions), such as ravioli with asparagus and aged provolone. Niman Ranch pork tenderloin with agrodolce
peppers and roasted potatoes makes a sure-fire entrée, and lavender buttermilk panna cotta with muddled mint is the way to finish. A selection of Italian
craft beers offers an interesting alternative to good
Italian wines. >> L Mon–Fri, D Mon–Sat. g c $$$
TRU nnnn
676 N St Clair. Streeterville. 312-202-0001. Contemporary
American. Think of Anthony Martin’s menus as your
guide to superb flavors and stunning presentations.
Dashi flan with caviar, edamame, and yuzu kosho
brings newness to soy, and in a space with a Warhol
and a Richter, platings parallel that level of artistry:
river salmon accompanied by the river: rocks, water,
and dry ice. Smart wine pairings. Multicourse menus,
$115 and $158. >> D Mon–Sat. g $$$$
UPDATE VERMILION nn
10 W Hubbard. River North. 312-527-4060. Indian-Latin. It takes
an entire spice market to create some of Vermilion’s
Indian-Latin fusion dishes, which include a Brazilian
caldeirada de peixe stew spiked with curry, delicate
artichoke pakoras, and a dynamite New York strip
served with a creamy Indian red pepper chimichurri.
Separate vegetarian and Indian-only menus give the
restaurant breadth, and the dessert list walks the line
between sweet and savory with offerings like a goat
cheese cheesecake dressed with a blueberry and red
wine reduction. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. c s $$$$
THE VILLAGE •
Italian Village, 71 W Monroe. Loop. 312-332-7005. Italian. Pretheatre standby re-creates a villa downtown. Sop up
the red sauce from your mussels marinara with crusty
Italian bread, and slurp strands of pasta to the sounds
of Dino. >> L & D daily. c y $$
VIVERE n
Italian Village, 71 W Monroe. Loop. 312-332-4040. Italian.
You’ll be lucky if your show is as amusing as the
dated decor at this pretheatre warhorse. Consider
starting with the crab cake and skipping the pastas
in favor of solid mains, such as moist roast chicken
with rosemary cream. With bananas two ways on
the menu, you’ll want to leave time for dessert.
Huge wine list. >> L Mon–Fri, D Mon–Sat. g c $$$
XOCO nn
449 N Clark (enter on Illinois). River North. 312-661-1434. Mexican. The smallest and most casual of Rick Bayless’s
three restaurants on this block is also the most fun,
despite crowds, tight seating, and an awkward ordering procedure. The menu of street food impresses throughout, from terrific guacamole to a lively
selection of caldos, tortas, and sweets. >> B, L & D
Tue–Sat. g c s $
NORTH
ADA STREET no
1664 N Ada. Industrial Corridor. 773-697-7069. Mediterraneaninspired small plates. Once you get past the unlikely in-
dustrial location, this young, hip boîte offers solid
sour-salty-spicy gastropub food. Fried black-eyed peas
outdo Beer Nuts by a trendoid mile; cavatelli with mint
pesto shows off seasonality in this milieu for strong
flavors. Weak ingredients and oversalting sink some
dishes. Cocktails don’t live up to the hype. >> D Mon–
Sat. Br Sun. g e y (Fri, Sat) $
ALINEA nnnn
1723 N Halsted. Lincoln Park. 312-867-0110. Progressive American. When it comes to inventiveness, Grant Achatz
is flying higher, faster, and farther than ever. Expect
one amazing presentation after another, with revelatory bites served on boughs, pillows, driftwood,
or—dishless—on the table itself. Multicourse tasting
menu, $210 to $265; wine pairing menu offered. >>
D Wed–Sun. g $$$$
ANN SATHER •
909 W Belmont. Lake View. 773-348-2378. Diner food. It’s all
about the cinnamon rolls—dense yet soft, drowning
in a sugary glaze. (See annsather.com for all locations.) >> B & L daily. a g c l ¢
ANTEPRIMA nn
5316 N Clark. Andersonville. 773-506-9990. Italian. This
noisy neighborhood spot explores the rustic richness of regional Italian fare, from bucatini with ahi
tuna crudo and shaved bottarga (cured fish roe) to
wood-grilled bison flank steak with salsa verde and
wheat berries. Silky lemon panna cotta and affordable Italian wines provide perfect foils to the meal.
>> L Sun, D nightly. g c s e $$
ARUN’S nno
4156 N Kedzie. Albany Park. 773-539-1909. Thai. Arun Sampanthavivat’s elegant temple of upscale Thai cuisine
continues to cast a mesmerizing spell, offering diners poetically conceived 12-course tasting menus
that honor tradition while embracing ingenuity.
The set menu can change on a whim. Diners choose
from one of three spice levels—mild, traditional, or
fiery—and then go wherever Sampanthavivat takes
them. Beet-soaked vermicelli noodles in a coconut
broth with prawns, a bowl of classic tom kha soup,
or turmeric-spiced chicken curry with won tons
and egg noodles makes for a colorful, texturally rich
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culinary journey. Seven-course meal available to
early-bird diners on select weekdays evenings. >> D
Tue–Sun. g $$$$
ATK ANDY’S THAI KITCHEN nn
946 W Wellington. Lake View. 773-549-7821. Thai. Andy
Aroonrasameruang’s devoted fans have followed him
and his menu from TAC Quick Thai Kitchen to this
tiny BYO under the el, enduring long waits and erratic service at peak times for the sake of dazzling
food. Expect fine renditions of familiar dishes but
also plenty of delightful less commonly encountered
options. Crispy onchoy, a tempura feast of shrimp,
ground chicken, and Chinese water spinach, makes
all other salads seem wimpy and unimaginative. Yum
woon sen talay is equally mind-expanding with its
slippery glass noodles heaped with seafood—light,
substantial, superfresh, minty, and seriously spicy all
at once. >> L & D daily. l y (Fri) ¢
BALENA nno
1633 N Halsted. Lincoln Park. 312-867-3888. Italian. Thanks
to a cathedral-like dining room, friendly wine-savvy
servers, and chef Chris Pandel’s inviting menu, you
can now enjoy all your Italian food fantasies under
one roof. Relax with a clever cocktail and a woodfired Neapolitan-style pizza, indulge in one of the
creamiest pomodoro options in town, or settle in for
a rich octopus and farro salad followed by a mixedgrill entrée featuring pork. If an apricot-honey gelato
sundae with prosecco doesn’t make you giggle, no
dessert ever will. >> D nightly. g c $$$
BIG JONES nn
5347 N Clark. Andersonville. 773-275-5725. American Southern.
Don’t be put off by the idea of “heirloom” cooking;
Paul Fehribach’s lovingly researched, smartly executed fare is never pedantic. In-house baking, preserving, pickling, and meat curing result in homey
dishes that are tasty as all get-out. Fine selection of
whiskeys, bourbons, and specialty cocktails. >> L
Mon–Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c s $$
BISTRO CAMPAGNE no
4518 N Lincoln. Lincoln Square. 773-271-6100. French. Satisfy
bistro longings in this neighborhood spot with mussels in Belgian ale or a caramelized onion strudel. Go
all meaty with a thick, juicy Berkshire pork chop in
white wine au jus with cipollini confit, or veg out
with savory socca Provençal—classic Nice-style
chickpea crêpes filled with vegetables and melting
goat cheese. Cap dinner off with a fine lemon tart. >>
D nightly. Br Sun. g c s $$
BISTROT MARGOT •
1437 N Wells. Old Town. 312-587-3660. French. Lyonnaise onion soup, escargots persillade, and all the classics are
yours at this Parisian boîte. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly.
Br Sat, Sun. g c s e $$$
REVIEW PENDING
BOKA
1729 N Halsted. Lincoln Park. 312-337-6070. Progressive
American. Boka has reopened with Lee Wolen ( Lob-
by) as executive chef and partner—and, naturally,
with his menu. Wine list has always been outstanding; ditto the service and decor. >> D nightly. g
c s $$$$
CAFÉ BA-BA-REEBA! no
2024 N Halsted. Lincoln Park. 773-935-5000. Spanish. This
friendly stalwart of the Lettuce Entertain You empire holds sway with its tasty tapas, festive vibe, and
gentle prices. Appetizer and dessert pintxos cover interesting territory without dumbing anything down.
Paella comes three ways. Nice Spanish wines, many
under $40. >> L Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c s
e y (Fri, Sat) $
CHILAM BALAM no
3023 N Broadway. Lake View. 773-296-6901. Mexican. The ingenuity of its small-plate menu—from honey-pasilla
pork ribs to scallops in a sweet corn sauce with
charred eggplant—helps overcome the flaws of this
BYO, which is tucked in a basement and takes no
weekend reservations. The friendly service, however,
goes a long way, as does the yummy hot chocolate.
Cash only. (From the same team: Shaman in West
Town, 312-226-4175.) >> D Tue–Sat. c l e $
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UPDATE
ELIZABETH RESTAURANT nnno
4835 N Western. Lincoln Square. 773-681-0651. New American.
Iliana Regan’s dream-like feasts, served in a dining
room festooned with owl totems and light fixtures
crafted out of tree branches, use a dynamic combination of foraged greens, game meats, and obscure
ingredients to create a fine-dining experience like
no other in the city. Everything feels deeply personal—rich, raw, and untamed—but ultimately elegant
and soulful. Think mushroom teas brewed with
cocoa and chamomile, wild pheasant pâté topped
with truffles, and a flight of charred leafy vegetables
dressed with a ragoût of beef hearts. Mushrooms
come fried in acorn flour, and noodles are made
out of pulverized shrimp. Regan’s offerings defy
classification but capture the richness of nature’s
bounty with grace and refinement. Multicourse
menu prices start at $85. Go to elizabeth-restaurant
.com to buy tickets. >> D Tue–Sat. g $$$$
GEMINI BISTRO nno
2075 N Lincoln. Lincoln Park. 773-525-2522. American bistro.
You encounter this kind of neighborhood restaurant more often in your mind’s eye than around the
corner. The mushroom risotto with rosemary alone
justifies Gemini’s existence. Fortunately there’s also
a well-executed crab cake, comforting roast chicken, and a homey peach crisp. Hey, if it feels like a
throwback, just enjoy the moment. >> D Tue–Sun.
g c s e $$
GOOSEFOOT nnnO
2656 W. Lawrence. Lincoln Square. 773-942-7547. Contemporary American. Sharply conceived robust but light
dishes fill the $135 tasting menu at Chris Nugent’s
upscale BYO. Meals progress through richer than
expected seafood to brighter than expected meats
and finish in complex, eye-opening desserts. Although the menu changes less frequently than you’d
guess for a restaurant named after a plant family, successes such as scallop in curry and lobster
ragoût with licorice-coconut foam and the duck
breast with ginger-spiced beluga lentils and compressed apple deserve repeat performances. Cleverly prepared goat or Alpine-style cheese elevates
the cheese course from afterthought to effective
transition. The BYO policy is endearing, but finding
one’s own wines to match this level of food can be
too much work. >> D Wed–Sat. a g l $$$$
GOOSE ISLAND BREWPUB •
1800 N Clybourn. Lincoln Park. 312-915-0071. American. Seriously good beer is the draw, and chitchat is easy in
these casual digs. Create a four-beer flight ($10) from
the 24 or so draft choices. Weekend brewery tours. (In
Wrigleyville, 773-832-9040) >> L & D daily. Br Sat,
Sun. a g c y (Fri, Sat) $
JIN JU no
5203 N Clark. Andersonville. 773-334-6377. Korean. This inviting neighborhood staple relies on expertly cooked
meats and well-seasoned sauces served at fair prices to
keep the buzz going. Look to amiable servers to guide
your selections, but breeze through unremarkable
appetizers to save room for entrées: mouthwatering
dak bulgogi—a chicken dish kicked up with addictive
caramelized potatoes—and succulent kalbi—a saucy
mélange of braised short ribs and veggies. Both are divine. >> D Tue–Sun. g c $
KATSU nno
2651 W Peterson. Rogers Park. 773-784-3383. Sushi/Japanese.
This unassuming spot caters to those willing to pay
top dollar for top-quality sushi and authentic Japanese
fare. The bento boxes are huge, the bowls of sukiyaki
noodles warming, and the miso-glazed grilled duck
unforgettable. The sushi combo platters reveal the
lure of expertly sourced seafood prepared by a master.
>> D Wed–Sun. g $$$$
L2O nnn
Belden-Stratford, 2300 N Lincoln Park West. Lincoln Park. 773868-0002. Contemporary seafood. Matthew Kirkley works
small—or, as Wonderland’s Alice might have said, in
miniature and miniaturer. His takes on fish and mollusks are admirable and delicious, if a bit fussy. Staff-
ers can be overpresent—except for the bread server, of
whose wee rosemary croissants you won’t tire. Excellent wines. Prix fixe menus from $140 to $210. >> D
Thu–Mon. g $$$$
MON AMI GABI no
Belden-Stratford, 2300 N Lincoln Park West. Lincoln Park. 773348-8886. French steak house. Ten variations on steak
frites set the theme for this turn-of-the-century Parisian bar look-alike. Pristine oysters, onion soup,
and chicken liver mousse are among reliable hors
d’oeuvres. Boeuf bourguignonne offers all the comforts of a Gallic home. Seating tends to be close, so
keep an eye on your gooey warm chocolate pudding
cake. (In Oak Brook, 630-472-1900) >> D nightly. g
(side entrance) c s e $$
NORTH POND nnn
2610 N Cannon. Lincoln Park. 773-477-5845. Contemporary
American. Fine restaurants often struggle to pat pa-
trons’ heads while simultaneously rubbing their
tummies—that is, to strike a balance between conservative and adventurous, and between fulfilling
expectations and surprising palates. This hideaway
manages to offer beef and mushrooms to the cautious crowd and squid and watermelon to the up-foranythings, but always with a fresh dimension. Bruce
Sherman’s menu exploits the seasons, with tomatoes, sweet corn, and eggplant on a late-summer
visit showing how produce with character can make
the familiar new again. Desserts may not swim in
sugars, but they push the envelope on which ingredients can moonlight in sweet roles. >> D Wed–Sun.
Br Sun. g c $$$$
PERENNIAL VIRANT nn
1800 N Lincoln. Lincoln Park. 312-981-7070. American. Paul
Virant’s breezy-chic spot across from Lincoln Park is
a smart modern take on pure Americana. You’ll find
hearty shared bites, such as smoked ham hock beignets; irresistible bar snacks (fried cheese curds); and
seasonal offerings that showcase American farms,
such as the crackling Caveny Farm Rouen duck schnitzel. The bar overflows with stellar craft cocktails. Elissa Narow’s desserts, such as apple rhubarb pie with
Three Sisters oat crumble, are terrific. >> B Mon–Fri,
D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c s $$$$
PHO XE TANG no
4953 N Broadway. Uptown. 773-878-2253. Vietnamese. Brave
the hordes and the charmless room, and you’ll be rewarded with dishes such as the catfish hot pot—the
dark, concentrated sauce is addictive. Then there’s the
pho, which boasts a flavor so deep you’ll be convinced
it has curative powers. God knows why the coconut
chicken curry comes with a banh mi roll, but it’s fabulous— “pho real,” according to the waiter’s T-shirt. >> B,
L & D Thu–Tue. g c l ¢
UPDATE RAS DASHEN n
5846 N Broadway. Edgewater. 773-506-9601. Ethiopian. Among
the most underrated of the world’s cuisines, Ethiopian food hypnotizes with its complex spicing, deeply
flavored stews, and spongy, sour injera (bread). Ras
Dashen is a welcoming spot to try it out, and it offers
a worthy array of greatest hits, as well as a few less
familiar items. Order the qosta (spinach), mesir wat
(red lentils), yeqay tikil gomen (sweet-and-sour cabbage), yebeg de berbere (lamb in spicy tomato sauce),
and doro wat (a classic chicken dish), and prepare
to start wondering why there aren’t more Ethiopian
places in town. >> L & D daily. g c s $
R.J. GRUNTS •
2056 N Lincoln Park West. Lincoln Park. 773-929-5363. American.
Lettuce Entertain You launched its empire—and Chicago’s first salad bar—in 1971 at this beloved icon. >> L
& D daily. Br Sat, Sun. g c y (Mon–Sat) ¢
¡SALPICÓN! no
1252 N Wells. Old Town. 312-988-7811. Mexican. Priscila Satkoff’s subtle yet self-assured interpretations of Mexican classics don’t shine quite as brightly as they did
when the restaurant first opened in 1995. By now,
some of her offerings feel a bit familiar—think tamales, seviche, guacamole, tostadas—but the time and
care she puts into her entrées still produce artistically
plated delights, including a smoky-sweet pork tenderloin glazed with a tomato chipotle spread and a juicy
bone-in pork chop set in a coffee-like Oaxacan ancho
chile mole. The tequila list remains impressive, not to
mention servers who educate while they entertain. >>
D nightly. Br Sun. g c s $$$
SHOKRAN MOROCCAN RESTAURANT no
4027 W Irving Park. Old Irving Park. 773-427-9130. Moroccan.
This friendly gem offers a kitschy-cozy setting for
couscous, kebabs, and tagines—traditional casseroles
served in earthenware and brimming with goodies
such as tender tilapia, honeyed cubes of lamb partnered with prunes and almonds, or juicy chicken
breast showered with olives, lemon peel, and crispy
potatoes. And don’t miss bastila, a sweet-savory phyllo pastry filled with shredded chicken and crushed
almonds. Cash only. >> D Wed–Mon. g c l $
SMOQUE BBQ •
3800 N Pulaski. Irving Park. 773-545-7427. Barbecue. After bursting on the scene in 2006, this bare-bones
smokehouse still smolders. The brisket, the pulled
pork, and the St. Louis ribs live up to the hype. BYO
and get in line. >> L & D Tue–Sun. a (limited) g
c ls$
SOLA no
3868 N Lincoln (entrance on Byron). North Center. 773327-3868. Contemporary American. At this upscale
Hawaiian-tinged spot, sweet flavors infuse the savories—crispy mushroom salad benefits from Asian
pear; roast chicken from a honey-orange soy sauce.
Conversely, desserts carry savory flavors, such as
adzuki bean cake with maple confit of butternut
squash and vanilla miso ice cream. >> D nightly. Br
Sat, Sun. g c s $$$
SPOON THAI NN
4608 N Western. Lincoln Square. 773-769-1173. Thai. The façade
and decor at this storefront, along with the low prices
and lettuce-leaf-garnished platings, belie the excellence of the food. The translated Thai menu holds
the real treasures: Dishes such as jerky-like beef strips
with tamarind dipping sauce show attention to balance, and spice levels don’t get bossy. A massive portion of boat noodles ($9) easily feeds two. Skip dessert.
>> L & D daily. g c l ¢
TANK SUSHI No
4514 N Lincoln. Lincoln Square. 773-769-2600. Sushi/Japanese.
While authenticity abounds among traditional offerings here (great gyoza, lovely udon), it’s not the main
draw. A youngish clientele knows a place for a really
large selection of playful jumbo maki when they see
one. Desserts include hilarious chocolate chip cookie
dough egg rolls. Nice sake list. >> L Fri–Sun, D nightly.
g c s $$
THAI PASTRY RESTAURANT N
4925 N Broadway. Uptown. 773-784-5399. Thai. The menu
at this hospitable spot covers familiar territory with
reliable renditions of more than 100 dishes. Steamed
dumplings, kicky salads, and satisfying noodle-centric entrées deliver the goods; curries are as bold as
you want them to be; sweet treats beckon irresistibly
from the pastry case. Servers maintain composure
even when the place is packed. >> L Mon–Fri, D
nightly. g c l y (Fri, Sat) ¢
TROQUET n
1834 W Montrose. Ravenswood. 773-334-5664. French. This
is frites heaven, for sure, but the tiny menu includes
other great things. Follow moules with quiche, charcuterie, a croque monsieur, or whitefish with fries
and a salad. Sports on TVs over the bar and modest
bistro fare on your table offer a winning combo indeed. >> L & D daily. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $
TWIN ANCHORS •
1655 N Sedgwick. Old Town. 312-266-1616. Barbecue. On the
same corner since 1932, this comfy tavern touts its
slow-cooked baby back ribs as the world’s best. Maybe
not, but they are the falling-off-the-bone sweet-sauced
kind beloved by many Chicagoans. >> L Sat, Sun; D
nightly. g c s y (Fri, Sat) $
VINCI •
1732 N Halsted. Lincoln Park. 312-266-1199. Italian. Plays come
and go along this theatre strip, but the curtain never
falls on Paul LoDuca’s trusty trattoria or menu faves
such as crispy polenta con funghi, juicy grilled hen,
and creamy panna cotta. Free corkage if the vintage
you bring in is at least 10 years old. >> D Tue–Sun. Br
Sun. g c s $$
YOSHI’S CAFÉ nno
3257 N Halsted. Lake View. 773-248-6160. Contemporary. The
civilized mood is a big part of this neighborhood stalwart’s allure—Yoshi Katsumura has stayed in business
for 30 years by being true to his instincts rather than
to fashion. Seafood offerings and a wagyu beef bento
dinner star on the regular menu; daily specials keep
things lively. Well-priced wines. Three-course $25
menu Thursdays. >> D Tue–Sun. Br Sun. g (kitchen
entrance) c s $$$
SOUTH
ACADIA nnno
1639 S Wabash. South Loop. 312-360-9500. Contemporary.
Ryan McCaskey, the Saigon-born chef, pulls out all
the stops with lobster, truffles, and other luxurious
foodstuffs. But humbler tastes—mustard seeds here,
pickled cherries there—also shine, with supertasty
accessorizing morsels pushing the main events in
interesting directions, all coherent. And such pretty
plates! Food doesn’t get much lovelier than this.
Seven-course tasting menu ($135). Serious wine program. >> D Tue–Sun. g c s $$$$
AMELIA’S BAR & GRILL no
4559 S Halsted. Canaryville. 773-538-8200. Mexican. Amid
a sea of vacant lots stands Amelia’s, where Eusebio Garcia prepares upscale Mexican food with—
aptly—unexpected touches. The quesadilla de
huitlacoche carries a zingy citrus flavor, and caramelized green papaya and mango accompany the
salmón al carbón entrée. The robust roasted chicken
breast comes with a ton of oyster mushrooms and a
rich sauce. Solid desserts, affordable wine list. >> L
Mon–Fri, D daily. Br Sat, Sun. g c l ($5 corkage
per bottle) $$$
DUSEK’S nn
1227 W 18th. Pilsen. 312-526-3851. American. Longman &
Eagle’s chef and co-owner make rapidly gentrifying
Pilsen’s dreams come true with this delightful reimagining of the old Thalia Hall space. Jared Wentworth’s smart menu covers a lot of ground, from the
American South to the Farthest East of Asia. His
hearty dishes showcase nuanced flavors, as in a magical matsutake mushroom risotto with caramelized
chestnuts and a sweet Asian pear relish. Impeccable
oysters and top-notch choucroute give way to clever
desserts, such as the doughnut-hole-like fried stout
with bavarois (Bavarian custard), coffee jelly, and toffee. Relatively inexpensive cocktails and an impressive ever-changing beer program add to the allure;
warm, prompt service multiplies it exponentially.
The result? An irresistible restaurant, that’s equal
parts throwback charmer and of-the-moment star. >>
D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g s y $
HOME RUN INN •
4254 W 31st. Little Village. 773-247-9696. Pizza. Good oldfashioned sausage pizza is king at this South Side classic, where kids can be rowdy, adults can get a drink,
and nobody goes home hungry. (For all locations, see
homeruninnpizza.com.) >> L & D daily. a g c ¢
LAO BEIJING NO
2138 S Archer. Chinatown. 312-881-0168. Chinese. Dumplings, noodles, and other wheat-based savories are
must-haves, so begin with northern-style pancakes,
elastic and blackened on the edges, and follow with
long pot stickers and cold Beijing noodles. There’s
Peking duck—but, oh, that cumin lamb saté. (Tony
Hu’s other Chinatown restaurants, Lao Sze Chuan
and Lao Shanghai, are good places to try different
regional cuisines.) >> B Sat, Sun; L & D daily. a
(ask for voucher) g c $
LA PETITE FOLIE nn
1504 E 55th. Hyde Park. 773-493-1394. French. Time doesn’t
just stand still at La Petite Folie, it goes backward. As
the neighborhood changes around this reliable stripmall spot, the old carpet and yellow walls feel like
artifacts from another era—a simpler and warmer
one, wherein the Alsatian onion tart with Gruyère
was heartier, the duck pâté thicker, the whole trout
Grenobloise more buttery, and the Bordeaux less expensive. The quiet room often fills with University of
Chicago big shots, and the servers are endlessly professional. Whether the scene feels outdated or not is
beside the point. Early-bird $32 prix fixe menu. >> L
Tue–Fri, D Tue–Sun. a g $$
MANNY’S CAFETERIA & DELICATESSEN •
1141 S Jefferson. University Village. 312-939-2855. Deli. The
Maxwell Street Market ain’t what, or where, it used
to be, but Manny’s still has potato pancakes, Reubens,
and diner faves galore. >> B, L & D Mon–Sat. a (free
valet at lunch) g c ¢
MOON PALACE NN
216 W Cermak. Chinatown. 312-225-4081. Chinese. This spiffy
storefront cooks up dandy Shanghainese, Sichuan, and
Mandarin fare. The hot-and-sour soup and the juicy
Shanghai dumplings are tops. For entrées: Peking duck,
spicy scallops with black pepper, and crispy Shanghai chicken. The all-Chinese menu offers uncommon
treats such as pork tongue in wine sauce. Excellent
martinis. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. g c l ($10 corkage per bottle) ¢
NIGHTWOOD N
2119 S Halsted. Pilsen. 312-526-3385. American. One never
knows quite what to expect from this adventuresome
spot. Jason Vincent thrives on spontaneity, tweaking
his menu almost daily, offering everything from Japanese mackerel fried in foie fat and venison-topped
rutabaga-stuffed casoncelli to simple spit-roasted
chicken and milk chocolate cakes topped with malted vanilla ice cream. The service needs to lighten up,
but the wine list rocks, as does the exemplary butter
cake. >> D Mon–Sat. Br Sun. g c s e $$
PLEASANT HOUSE BAKERY •
964 W 31st. Bridgeport. 773-523-7437. British. The most aptly
named restaurant in Chicago, this enthusiastic little
countertop BYO does only a few things—gravy chips,
homemade sodas, and pies, both sweet and savory—
and it does them all incredibly well. >> L & D daily. Br
Sun. g l s ¢
WEST
AMARIND’S n
6822 W North. Galewood. 773-889-9999. Thai. Complex
flavors pop and fresh ingredients shine at this welcoming haven. There’s a lot to enjoy in fried stuffed
prawns, Thai crêpes, classic tom kha soup, and vegetable karee (yellow) curry. Exotic dessert custards
and Thai beers round out the experience. >> L Tue–
Sat, D Tue–Sun. a c ¢
ANTICO n
1946 N Leavitt. Bucktown. 773-489-4895. Italian. ’Tis a gift, it’s
been said, to be simple. And at this cozy little coffeehouse-turned-trattoria, Brad Schlieder continues to
showcase the milder side of the Italian table, eschewing bombastic red sauces and cheesy standards for
lighter, more delicate fare. The results are a mixed
blessing. Choose wisely—say, a classic veal milanese
or a breezy Bolognese sauce set over handmade tagliatelle—and you’ll walk away singing Sinatra. But
the platings, frustratingly austere and unimaginative,
deserve more passion and pizzazz, as do the bland
roasted chicken and salmon offerings. Happily, the
fried zeppole and the red wine caramel panna cotta
make bold finales. >> D Tue–Sun. g c s $$
ANTIQUE TACO n
1360 N Milwaukee. Wicker Park. 773-687-8697. Mexican. This
cheerful, breezy storefront’s market food sparkles
with fresh flavors. Order at the counter, sit down,
and relax. The margaritas are infused with rosemary, the guacamole is lively, and the tacos are built
with smartly sourced ingredients and impressive
care. Finish with Abuelita’s Pop Tart stuffed with
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DINE: WHERE TO EAT
The low-country boil
at Carriage House
1829 W Chicago. West Town. 312-243-1535. Sushi/Japanese.
The sushi is fine, but it’s not the real reason to come
here: The pickles and the output of the robata grill
shine. Well-tuned flavors come in simple packages,
such as bourbon-soaked tofu with scallions and
shallots or maitake mushrooms with two sauces
(black garlic and pickled plum). Expansive and expensive sake list. >> D Tue–Sun. g c e $$
A TAVOLA nn
2148 W Chicago. Ukrainian Village. 773-276-7567. Italian. A
quaint converted house where Italian wines, personable servers, and the aromas from the kitchen attract
a loyal crowd. Creating those aromas are enticements
such as tagliatelle Bolognese and Sangiovese-braised
short rib over saffron risotto. Picture-perfect panna
cotta and housemade limoncello cap the experience.
>> D Mon–Sat. g c s $$
AU CHEVAL nn
800 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-929-4580. American. Abandon your diet and plunge fork-first into the unapologetically heavy grub at Brendan Sodikoff’s chic dinerstyle charmer. Servers—arguably the city’s best—ably
suggest craft brews to complement the downright
drool-worthy fried bologna sandwich or perhaps
garlicky mashed potatoes to supplement the juiciest
and most humongous pork porterhouse imaginable.
A cheeseburger? Go for broke and add a fried egg on
top. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g l (BYOers must share one glass with another table) e y $$
AVEC nno
615 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-377-2002. Mediterranean.
After more than 10 years, Avec is still a well-oiled
machine, playing to a packed house every night. Expect simple, seasonal, shareable small plates that let
their ingredients shine. Cases in point: the brandade
and a salad of hanger steak, shaved artichokes, pine
nuts, and kale. To quote a nearby diner: “You’ve got
to get the pork shoulder. It will change your life.” >>
D nightly. Br Sun. g s (drinks only) e y $$
BELLYQ no
1400 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-563-1010. Pan-Asian. Our
bellies already crave Bill Kim’s (UrbanBelly, Belly
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Shack) fare, and his warehouse-chic barbecue concept just deepens the desire. Whether you snag a
tabletop grill for a DIY experience or relax and let
Kim and crew work their magic from the kitchen,
start with the golf-ball-size crispy tofu, move on to
the succulent tea-smoked duck medallions, and finish with the textural delights of the seafood hot pot.
UrbanBelly shares BellyQ’s address but has its own
entrance and phone number (773-583-0500). >> L
Mon–Sat, D nightly. Br Sun. a (lunch and brunch
only) g c l (Sun only) s $
BELLY SHACK n
1912 N Western. Logan Square. 773-252-1414. Asian-Latin. Bill
Kim’s fast-casual ode to Korean street food—by way
of Puerto Rico—offers great quality for little money.
Heaps of Korean barbecue beef, quinoa ssam salads
fashioned into wraps, and crisp togarashi fries with
curry mayo cover almost every table, as do yuzu lemonade and soft-serve cinnamon caramel ice cream.
One taste of Belly Shack’s superfermented kimchi and
you know the kitchen means business. >> L & D Tue–
Sun. g l ¢
BITE CAFE no
1039 N Western. Ukrainian Village. 773-395-2483. American. Adjoining the Empty Bottle, this amiably hip hangout
possesses some serious cooking chops. Garlic-scented
roast chicken is a treat, as is any of the pan-seared seafood. Terrific burgers and fries too. >> B, L & D daily.
g c l e y¢
BLACKBIRD nnno
619 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-715-0708. Contemporary. Excellent but not arrogant, cutting-edge but not weird,
Blackbird presents culinary art without staginess. While
some of David Posey’s dishes riff on familiar flavor patterns, others take you to the far reaches of the flavor
universe, such as butternut squash soup with roe, char,
peaches, and stout foam. All show a clarity of vision, deft
technique, and an undeniable boldness. >> L Mon–Fri,
D nightly. g s e $$$$
THE BRISTOL no
2152 N Damen. Bucktown. 773-862-5555. American. If only
more kitchens showed the same diligence as this
urban-rustic storefront. Expect quality ingredients, simple preparations, and an evolving menu
that swings from delicate fluke crudo to ultrarich
porchetta di testa (pork head terrine with creamy
tonnato sauce). Juicy roast chicken and scallops
with cauliflower hash offer good value. The dense
Basque cake is a marvel, crumbly yet moist. Wines
are treated with care. >> D nightly. Br Sat, Sun.
g c $$
CARRIAGE HOUSE nn
1700 W Division. Wicker Park. 773-384-9700. American
Southern. Mark Steuer’s ode to low-country cooking
should do his home state of South Carolina proud.
From the impeccable fried chicken thigh in a reservoir of honey to the brawny clam boil with tasso
ham, meaty clams, and Vidalia onions to cornbread
(with rhubarb preserves), Steuer cooks from the
heart. The operation, staffed by a well-trained and
gracious crew, runs out of magic at dessert. Skip it
and order another Carolina Cocktail. >> L Tue–Fri, D
Tue–Sun. Br Sat, Sun. g c s e $$
CHEZ JOËL BISTRO no
1119 W Taylor. Little Italy. 312-226-6479. French. The mature
crowd at this bistro knows the neighborhood’s big secret: bold French flavors served at palatable prices by
an au fait—yet unstuffy—staff. An arugula salad with
warm honey mustard dressing soars to unexpected
heights, the lamb shank is fork tender, and the requisite steak frites delivers. >> L Tue–Fri, D Tue–Sun. Br
Sat. g c s $$
CHILAPAN no
2466 W Armitage. Logan Square. 773-697-4597. Mexican. Jorge
Miranda’s colorful neighborhood spot goes creative
with pork tenderloin splashed with green pumpkin
seed mole and grilled chicken, shrimp, or steak piled
into a molcajete along with cactus and a spirited arbol
tomatillo salsa. Made-to-order guacamole is fine, but
give the feisty shrimp seviche a nibble. >> D nightly.
c l s e $$
DAVANTI ENOTECA no
1359 W Taylor. Little Italy. 312-226-5550. Italian. This Scott
Harris gem veers far from the red-sauce tradition of
its Taylor Street forefathers. Chewy-crusted pizzas
are tough to pass up, but thoughtful antipasti, vasis
(spreads such as ricotta with local honey), and simple,
unadulterated pastas steal the show. Bottles of wine for
retail sale. (In River North, 312-605-5900) >> L Mon–
Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $
PHOTOGRAPH: ANNA KNOTT
marshmallow and Mexican chocolate, or sip a lovely
horchata milk shake. >> L & D Tue–Sun. g c ¢
ARAMI n
EL IDEAS nN
2419 W 14th. Douglas Park. 312-226-8144. Progressive.
Cloaked in the shadows along a dreary stretch of
14th Street, Phillip Foss’s cramped but convivial
BYO hideaway offers all the curb appeal of a Prohibition-era speakeasy. Fear not. Inside, Foss fans
out 24 seats around a tiny open kitchen, creating an
interactive dinner party where guests can chat with
chefs as they prepare the multicourse tasting menu
of the night. A global array of ingredients fused with
an iconoclastic spirit make for a unique evening.
Think bite-size pearls of oysters wrapped in wagyu
beef, kohlrabi kimchi, and garlic; squid stuffed with
pork sausage and served over a milky coconut curry;
and a deconstructed pecan pie paired with puréed
sweet potatoes roasted under coffee grounds. Despite some drawbacks—including set dinner times
and a blaring soundtrack—the energy of the room
and the inventiveness of the cuisine help make up
for the hefty price tag. >> D Tue–Sat. g e $$$$
EMBEYA no
564 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-612-5640. Contemporary
Asian. This beautiful, dramatic room creates an al-
most-giddy anticipation for the food. Thai Dang’s
Southeast Asian–influenced cuisine satisfies some of
his diners’ expectations, but maybe not their hopes
and dreams. Dishes often deliver sprinkles of novelty on Asian classics, such as a green papaya salad
enhanced by housemade beef jerky. Others march to
the contemporary small-plate drum and add Eastern
inflections, such as escargots and smoky eggplant in
green curry with shiso. And although Dang offers a
few opportunities for adventuring, such as shrimp
heads, you won’t be forced outside your comfort zone
(unless your neighbors order a stinky durian). >> L
Mon-Fri, D nightly. g c s $$
FAT WILLY’S •
2416 W Schubert. Logan Square. 773-782-1800. Barbecue.
Head to this funky spot smoking with hickory and
applewood for the major ’cue groups: spice-rubbed
baby backs, tender Texas brisket, and juicy pulled
pork. >> L & D daily. g c $
FRANCESCA’S ON TAYLOR •
1400 W Taylor. Little Italy. 312-829-2828. Italian. This venerable Taylor Street institution—known for its handwritten menus—continues to dish up hulking portions of beloved Italian staples at reasonable prices.
While most of the menu sounds familiar—fried calamari, veggie risottos, and cutlets of veal tenderloin—
the specials list occasionally offers a colorful surprise, perhaps a bell-pepper-smothered pork chop or
a salmon fillet paired with a creamy leek sauce. The
pasta options feel dated, but the wines remain as affordable as ever. Friendly, unpretentious service. (For
all locations, see miafrancesca.com.) >> L Mon–Sat,
D nightly. g c e $$
GIRL & THE GOAT nno
809 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-492-6262. Contemporary
American. No one can accuse Stephanie Izard of be-
ing cautious with her small-plate menu, which introduces roasted goat shanks, kohlrabi salads, and
shiitake-caramel gelato to the masses. Be bold. Try the
goat chowder with whitefish and an apple gremolata,
a meaty sugo pappardelle with gooseberries, or a trout
fillet with bacon relish and tuna crema. Beer lovers
and wine mavens will find much to enjoy, but those
afraid of big crowds and blaring soundtracks will rush
for the exits. >> D nightly. g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $$
GRACE nnno
652 W Randolph. West Loop. 312-234-9494. Contemporary.
Grace, the most pedigreed horse in the high-stakes
Randolph Street derby, came out of the gate at a sprint
in December 2012. Curtis Duffy’s meticulous tasting
menus (10 to 12 courses, $185), crafted in a glassedin kitchen, overflow with jaw-dropping ideas and
flavors. One gorgeous dish features a scallop that’s
been pan seared then chilled, lending it an almost foie
gras texture that transforms as you eat it with anisehyssop foam and hibiscus. Smart details such as bread
pairings also set the experience apart. Service, while
sharp—and ridiculously generous—is not quite fourstar. Yet. >> D Tue–Sat. g $$$$
HOTCHOCOLATE n
1747 N Damen. Bucktown. 773-489-1747. American. The hyperseasonal menu at Mindy Segal’s inviting storefront refuses to take a back seat to the James Beard
award winner’s illustrious desserts. Begin with the
exceptionally fresh soup and follow it up with a salad,
chock-full of Werp Farms field greens, and the wellseasoned crab cake sandwich. But let’s be honest:
You’re there for the sweet stuff. On that front, housemade ice creams and flavored hot chocolates are the
ticket. Impressive craft beer list. >> L Wed–Fri, D
Tue–Sun. Br Sat, Sun. g c e y (Fri, Sat) $$
ING nn
951 W Fulton Market. West Loop. 855-834-6464. Contemporary/Eclectic. Homaro Cantu, of Moto fame, uses this
kitchen as a platform to dream up fanciful—and often
hilarious—six- and 10-course themed tasting menus.
The focus shifts every three months or so, honoring
everything and everyone, from hard rock to Martin
Scorsese. The offerings—think savory veal cannoli
and chanterelle and fennel fettuccine for Mr. Scorsese—fluctuate from simple and satisfying to elaborate
and otherworldly. It’s a hit-and-miss, love-it-or-hateit experience, but the staff is knowledgeable, and the
beverage pairings, included in the set meal prices, are
downright inspired. >> D Tue–Sat. g $$$$
KAI ZAN nno
2557 W Chicago. Humboldt Park. 773-278-5776. Sushi/Japanese.
Sit-down restaurants don’t come much cozier or more
charming. Twin-bro chefs Melvin and Carlo Vizconde
put out superb sushi, sashimi, kushiyaki, and maki of
every description, as well as elegant tonkatsu shiso
age, memorable unagi poppers, and much more. A
multicourse tasting menu is $50. >> D Thu–Tue. g l
($5 corkage) $$
LA SARDINE n
111 N Carpenter. West Loop. 312-421-2800. French. Such
deals: half-price wine on Mondays, dollar oysters at
the bar on Fridays. Tuesday’s bargain is best of all,
especially in this spendy part of town—any appetizer,
entrée, and dessert for $27.50. Bistro standards such
as brandade, tarte flambée, and poached salmon with
leeks are successful, but more ambitious fare can disappoint. Braised short rib was both fatty and tough
on a recent visit, and a rabbit ragoût on pappardelle
was more about mushrooms than lapin. Presentations can be slapdash; a sweet exception is the delicate Grand Marnier soufflé, which arrives piping hot
and camera-ready. All French wines. >> L Mon–Fri,
D Mon–Sat. g e $$
LE BOUCHON n
1958 N Damen. Bucktown. 773-862-6600. French. Culinary fads
and dining trends hold little sway over this charming,
if tight-quartered, landmark. It’s a survivor, thanks in
large part to the kitchen’s unbridled love affair with
butter, cream, and garlic. To start, try a skillet full of
crispy frog’s legs or a platter of homemade sausage
atop first-rate Lyonnaise potatoes. For an entrée, pick
something saucy, whether it’s veal sweetbreads laced
with a Dijonnaise sauce or poached salmon under a
hearty beurre blanc. Nice wines and accommodating
service keep the regulars happy. >> L & D Mon–Sat. $$
LONGMAN & EAGLE nn
2657 N Kedzie. Logan Square. 773-276-7110. American. The
buzz never dies down at this corner tavern, where
the cooking is hyperseasonal, wildly creative, rich,
and filling. Earthy pasta dishes and protein-packed
salads give way to maple-braised pork shank, roasted
venison, or—for the less adventurous carnivore—a
Slagel Family Farm burger. Vegetarian options are
fewer but also well wrought. Dessert is mandatory
and includes stunners like tender olive oil doughnuts
nestled in a bowl of almond cream and hazelnut praline. Grab a pre- or postmeal bourbon concoction at
Longman’s Off Site Bar, a diminutive garage–turned–
watering hole. For a less gluttonous experience, every bit as delicious as dinner, try brunch. >> Br, L & D
daily. g c s y $$
LULA CAFÉ nn
2537 N Kedzie. Logan Square. 773-489-9554. Contemporary
American. Hip without chasing trends, more snug than
smug, this early adopter of farm-to-table principles
continues to turn out creative, enlightened food that
glides through the seasons at a high level. A spring
entrée might employ lemon and three preparations
of cauliflower to complement leaner-than-usual short
ribs and banish winter heaviness. Beet bruschetta
chaperones marinated kale, revivifying the beets–goat
cheese–red onion cliché. A smelts appetizer marries
a fried crunch, soft fish, and a thick citrus sauce. The
funky atmosphere exudes honesty, with knowledgeable (not know-it-all) servers and ingredient-driven
prices. Contentment reigns. >> B, L & D Wed–Mon. g
c s e y $$
MANA FOOD BAR no
1742 W Division. Wicker Park. 773-342-1742. Vegetarian.
Global influences find pleasing expression in wellconceived dishes, nearly all available in half portions
that make it easy to cover a lot of territory. Squeeze in
at the bar and start with fresh fruit or vegetable juice
enlivened, if you like, with a shot of vodka. Menu highlights include impressively delicate gyoza, cheesy polenta generously topped with wild mushrooms, bold
caponata, grilled endive and radicchio with hazelnuts
and blue cheese, and saag paneer that sheds new light
on this Indian classic. Many vegan and gluten-free
offerings. Service is casual but tuned in. >> L Sat, D
nightly. g c s $
MEXIQUE nn
1529 W Chicago. West Town. 312-850-0288. Mexican-French.
If the French had hung on to Mexico in the 19th century, this is the cuisine that might have evolved. Carlos
Gaytan fashions classic Mexican flavors and ingredients
with fine French technique. Don’t miss the wonderful
seafood mousse tamal stuffed with crab fricassee and
served with spiced bouillabaisse or the crêpe enchiladas with ancho chilies and chocolate. No margaritas but
excellent sangría and appropriate wines. >> L Tue–Fri,
D Tue–Sun. Br Sat, Sun. g c s $$
MIRAI SUSHI nno
2020 W Division. Wicker Park. 773-862-8500. Sushi/Japanese. You rarely find an upscale sushi spot that
values quality over quantity. But each and every
one of the six signature rolls on Mirai’s list stands
out—drizzled, dipped, and ladled with memorable
sauces—including a panko-shrimp roll topped with
soy-marinated salmon and creamy wasabi. Classic
Japanese hot plates, such as the seven-spice chicken togarashi, honor tradition, while a unique variety
of small plates offers monkfish foie gras and baked
snow crab in a crispy seaweed skin. The dessert
menu is thin, but tipping back a sake-based cocktail
provides a memorable finish. >> D nightly. g (first
floor) c s $$$$
MOTO nnn
945 W Fulton Market. West Loop. 312-491-0058. Contemporary. Culinary techie Homaro Cantu continues to
tinker with—and overturn—the staid conventions
of fine dining with a rare combination of cooking
skill and childlike experimentation. Expect him
to fill his seasonal 14-course tasting menus with
shape-shifting oddities such as shriveled freezedried grapes in a rich and milky gazpacho, braised
bison with chilies pulverized into pixie-like dust to
mimic an arid Southwestern landscape, and olive oil
foams set next to emulsified olive jellies and braised
octopus for a tongue-in-cheek take on a traditional
seafood platter. Cantu creates playful presentations
at will, but don’t underestimate his skill in showcasing traditional flavors in new forms, which makes
his food odysseys worthwhile. Request a secluded
high-backed banquette to maximize the element of
surprise, and indulge in wine pairings to take the
experience to another level. >> D Tue–Sat. g $$$$
NEXT nnn
953 W Fulton Market. West Loop. 312-226-0858. Contemporary. The buzz never fades at Grant Achatz’s stunner,
which changes its identity and approach three times
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DINE: WHERE TO EAT
a year. Nor does the originality. Chef Dave Beran’s
sixth menu, a Kyoto kaiseki, featured one of Next’s
finest hours, the “Japanese maple forest”: shrimp,
bottarga, a parsnip chip with corn custard topped by
trout roe, lotus root chips in an uni shell, and pickled turnip wrapped in nori and duck prosciutto, all
hidden in leaves illuminated by a candle in a daikon
radish “lantern.” Service is as playful and authoritative as ever. Through April 30, Next models itself on
classic steak houses. For tickets, go to Next’s website
far in advance. And pray. >> D Wed–Sun. g $$$$
PEGASUS •
130 S Halsted. Greektown. 312-226-3377. Greek. The price
continues to be right at this sunny icon, where heaping platters of taverna-style classics appear to be immune to inflation. There’s plenty of pomp, spectacle,
and nods to dining on the shores of the Aegean here,
but a three-course meal of loukaniko sausage, a
pastitsio and chicken riganati combo, and Greek yogurt for dessert remains a steal. All this comes with
knowledgeable service and free valet parking. >> L
& D daily. a g c s y (Fri, Sat) $
PICCOLO SOGNO nn
464 N Halsted. West Town. 312-421-0077. Italian. Homemade
pastas, high-quality ingredients, and technical proficiency continue to roll out of Tony Priolo’s kitchen to
convivial customers in the hip dining room (and on
the fab patio in summer). The menu’s most successful
dishes bring new angles to classics, such as an earthy
fettuccine with ratatouille-like roasted veggies and
just-gamy-enough lamb meatballs. Watch for a tagliolini with pheasant ragu. The sweetly perfumed saffronhoney panna cotta might be the “little dream” the restaurant’s name refers to. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. a
(lunch only) g c s e $$$
THE PUBLICAN nnn
837 W Fulton Market. West Loop. 312-733-9555. Contemporary
American. Don’t be lulled into porky bliss by all the
salty-sour-sausagey delights. Undergirding the food
at Paul Kahan’s beer hall are composition and technique to rival most restaurants with whiter tablecloths (or any tablecloths). The pig ear strips on the
Little Gem Salad, for example, crunch exquisitely,
and the romaine, fennel, and buttermilk vinaigrette
please without peacocking. Desserts, maybe a touch
fancier, evince top talent. >> L Mon–Sat (3:30–5:30
p.m. D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. g c (brunch only) s
e y (Fri, Sat) $$
THE ROSEBUD •
1500 W Taylor. Little Italy. 312-942-1117. Italian. Reservations
carry little weight at this flagship of a local empire
(rosebudrestaurants.com); however, the zuppe di
mare, calamari, and cavatelli mean everything. >> L &
D daily. a (weekday lunch) g c s e y (Fri, Sat) $
RUXBIN nno
ate with his evolving menu. Sumptuous charcuterie
includes brilliant duck mousse and the best bologna
you’ve ever tasted. The French spice mixture vadouvan elevates lamb loin; black pepper gnocchi and
turnips enhance spice-glazed duck breast. Cindy
Schuman’s desserts, such as almond blancmange and
apricot gelée, maintain the standard, as do the stellar
wines and cocktails. The 19th-century print shop setting beguiles; the fine waitstaff impresses. >> L Mon–
Fri, D nightly. g c s $$$$
TAKASHI nnn
1952 N Damen. Bucktown. 773-772-6170. Contemporary French/
Japanese. Takashi Yagihashi is as adept at cooking
the classics—clay-pot chicken and perfectly roasted
duck breast—as he is at coaxing the richest and most
delicate flavors into coexisting blissfully on one plate.
Think scallops and soba gnocchi in a celery and Parmesan foam, cobia with sweet pea agnolotti, and the
ultimate crème brûlée for dessert. The man has finesse
to spare, as do the accommodating servers, who know
their way around the savvy wine and sake list. >> D
Tue–Sun. g c s $$$$
TAXIM NN
1558 N Milwaukee. Wicker Park. 773-252-1558. Greek. Inspired
by the rich flavors and culinary reach of the ancient
Byzantine Empire, this cliché-busting standout
dispenses with tired Greektown staples in favor of
lesser-known Aegean specialties. Think mild
Cypriot-style sausage, pomegranate-marinated duck
gyros, and lamb shanks slowly roasted in terra cotta
platters. Add a Greek wine list with breadth, homemade desserts, and a dining room lit like an Eastern
Orthodox church, and Taxim can lay claim to being
unique among the many Greek spots in the city. >> D
nightly. g c s e $$
THREE ACES N
1321 W Taylor. Little Italy. 312-243-1577. American. Forget
what you thought you knew about pub grub at this
dark, rock ’n’ roll–themed tavern. Yes, it serves a
solid burger—dripping with aged cheddar and bacon jam—but the menu’s gems are Matt Troost’s
seasonal dishes, a showcase of local farms, featuring beautifully plated housemade pastas and
sophisticated meaty entrées. Sure, there are missteps (bland Brussels sprouts swimming in oil and
a lamb-sausage pizzetta overwhelmed by pickled
peppers), but this “bar food” rivals far fancier—and
pricier—joints in town. Impressive lineup of Midwestern craft beers and Taylor Street’s best outdoor patio. >> D nightly. a (winter only, through
April) g c s y ¢
TOCCO nn
1266 N Milwaukee. Wicker Park. 773-687-8895. Italian.
1466 N Ashland. Wicker Park. 773-252-1466. Contemporary.
Straightforward, honest dishes make this one
of the most authentically Italian places around.
Decor is a bit cold, but superb soups and salads,
bountiful antipasti platters, housemade pastas,
and wood-fired pizzas (we love the casereccia) will
warm you right up. Finish with gelato or tiramisùlike torta di mandorle. >> D Tue–Sun. g c s e
y (Fri, Sat) $$
TUFANO’S VERNON PARK TAP •
1073 W Vernon Park. Little Italy. 312-733-3393. Italian. This
iconic watering hole plays host to locals, celebs, cops,
and burbites alike. Order pasta, lemon chicken, or
Vesuvio-style chops, but save room for tiramisù.
Cash only. >> L Tue–Fri, D Tue–Sun. g c s ¢
NEW LISTING TWO n
123 N Jefferson. West Loop. 312-441-1920. Contemporary American. Andrew Zimmerman quietly amazes your pal-
eggs in a carton, this farm-to-table small-plate
spot shows care and skill in creating homemade
ingredients—smoked arctic char, ricotta, fettuccine.
But occasionally the dishes fizzle, lacking excitement and balance, as with an oily duck confit that
fails to enhance the fettuccine. A charcuterie plate
(trend!) kicks things off well, and roasted wild
mushrooms with a fried duck egg (trend!) succeeds. Together with the casual service and unassuming atmosphere, the artisanal food makes this a
851 N Ashland. West Town. 312-624-8509. Contemporary
American. Yes, weekend wait times are maddening.
But once you’ve settled into this candlelit 32-seater,
with its whimsical decor and refreshingly down-toearth staff, it’s tough to stay irked. On the compact
menu, clever combos and impeccable details make
for memorable dishes. Familiar-sounding entrées
are foolers: “Shrimp and grits” is actually a steaming medley of seafood goodness bathed in tomatotarragon shrimp bisque, all atop a tender polenta cake.
>> D Tue–Sun. g c l $$$
SCHWA nnno
Michael Carlson turns out brilliant food at the most
unlikely BYO in town. The kitchen team double as
waiters and serve stunners such as ravioli filled with
liquid quail egg yolk, truffle, and buffalo. Don’t be
surprised if candied sweetbreads and parsnip custard show up in dessert. Nine courses, $115. Securing
a reservation is trying, and Carlson occasionally indulges in last-minute cancellations and closures. >>
D Tue–Sat. l e $$$$
SEPIA nnno
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C H I C AG O M AG .CO M
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2014
1132 W Grand. West Town. 312-624-8363. Contemporary
American. Lining up dining trends like cage-free
nice restaurant for a night out in the neighborhood.
>> D Tue–Sun. g c $$$
YUSHO nn
2853 N Kedzie. Avondale. 773-904-8558. Japanese yakitori.
Matthias Merges shows off his skill with flame and
skewer at this sharp lair for yakitori, Japaneseinspired grilled street food with a Basque backbeat.
With 30 small plates, nightly specials, and loads of
designer cocktails, artisanal beers, and sakes, there’s
plenty for all palates. A jar of chicken liver mousse
topped with skewered livers and crisp chicken skin
gets you into the spirit. Even the mochi is grilled
and finished with wasabi white chocolate. >> D Wed–
Mon. Br Sun. g y (Fri, Sat) $$
SUBURBAN
ABIGAIL’S AMERICAN BISTRO no
493 Roger Williams, Highland Park. 847-780-4862. Contemporary American. The inevitable wait here pays off,
especially if you order flatbread with beets and arugula to start. Memorable fries accent a juicy flat iron
steak; roast chicken with polenta fries is unadulterated comfort food. Sticky toffee pudding cake features superb sour cream ice cream. >> L Tue–Fri, D
Tue–Sat. a g c s e $$
BARRINGTON COUNTRY BISTRO nn
718 W Northwest Hwy (Foundry Center), Barrington. 847-8421300. French. Polished decor and refined cooking dis-
tinguish this suburban bistro gem. The onion soup
gratinée is perfection, as is the rabbit pâté. Seared
Alaskan halibut in tomato vinaigrette and hanger
steak with peppercorn sauce prove equally satisfying. A warm chocolate raspberry tart with orange
cream hits the right sweet notes. >> L & D Mon–
Sat. a g c s $$$
BOB CHINN’S CRAB HOUSE •
393 S Milwaukee, Wheeling. 847-520-3633. Seafood. This
seafood haven serves 2,000 diners daily. Crowd
pleasers include king crab legs, surf-and-turf options, and a daily catch offered seven ways. >> L & D
daily. a g c $$$
CHEF’S STATION n
915 Davis, Evanston. 847-570-9821. Continental. Those in
the mood to revisit the pre-small-plate era of fine
dining will find dishes such as roasted beets with
goat cheese mousse, scallops with celeriac and
apple, salmon over lentils, and rack of lamb (here
with quite tasty quinoa and caramelized onions).
And soufflé, bien sûr. The ample wine list puts many
others to shame. >> D Tue–Sun. g a (garage at
Benson and Davis) s $$$
CURRY HUT RESTAURANT n
410 Sheridan, Highwood. 847-432-2889. Indian, Nepalese.
You could order the Indian standards here without opening your menu—including a commendable
tikka masala—and have a comfortable, familiar
curry house experience. But the Nepali specialties
that differentiate Curry Hut from its brethren merit your attention. The spiced, but not spicy, bonein goat dish khasi ko masu and the dim-sum-like
dumplings momo showcase the cuisine’s position
halfway between northern Indian and Chinese
food. In contrast to the mild Nepali dishes, the
Indian options provide a pleasant slow burn, and
for those accustomed to disbelieving restaurants
about spice levels: When the menu says something
is hot, it means it. (From the same team: Chicago
Curry House in the South Loop, 312-362-9999.) >>
L & D daily. a g c s $
D & J BISTRO •
466 S Rand, Lake Zurich. 847-438-8001. French. Between
the classics and the specials, this popular spot has
plenty of winners, including a tender lamb shank
and fine profiteroles. Small but solid wine list. >> L
Tue–Fri, D Tue–Sun. a g c s e $$
EDELWEISS •
7650 W Irving Park, Norridge. 708-452-6040. German. When
the urge for a few steins, a heaping platter of sausages, and crispy-skinned roast duck strikes, this
Teutonic stalwart and its oompah band await. >> L
& D daily. a g c s $
FOUND NN
1631 Chicago, Evanston. 847-868-8945. American. The combination of Amy Morton’s eclectic decor and Nicole
Pederson’s nuanced cooking results in a vibe that’s
downright giddy. Happy diners fill their tables with
plates of fried oyster tacos and lamb meatballs
with pistachio chimichurri and yogurt and try to
save room for chocolate pot de crème with crème
fraîche. Sparkly service. >> L Tue–Sat, D Tue–Sun.
g c s$
I AM SIAM n
1 Huntington, Wheeling. 847-419-0698. Thai/Asian. There’s
nothing unique about this strip-mall spot—but its
kitchen knows how to crank out satisfying interpretations of Thai classics. The pad thai, tom kha
soup, and pork fried rice with homemade barbecue sauce are all solid; but save room for a novel
tuile-like Siam pancake and a whole red snapper,
which equally delight. >> L Mon–Sat, D nightly.
a g c$
INOVASI n
28 E Center, Lake Bluff. 847-295-1000. Contemporary American. True to its name—the Indonesian word for “in-
novation”—this avant-garde but welcoming dining
room is always full of surprises: fillets of Louisiana
black drum in a seafood broth with saffron and
sherry; a sweet corn soup spiked with bourbon. An
inventive cocktail list, smart daily specials, and the
congenial waitstaff make this a find on the North
Shore. >> L Mon–Fri, D Mon–Sat. g c s $$
LE VICHYSSOIS •
220 W Rte 120, Lakemoor. 815-385-8221. French. Bernard
Crétier’s haute sauces and classic recipes have
drawn fans to this throwback for years. The pastry
cart holds a lavish array of fruit tarts, nut tortes, and
other singular sweets. >> D Wed–Sun. a g $$
LIBERTAD n
7931 Lincoln, Skokie. 847-674-8100. New Latin. This noisy
storefront delights with its hip food and vibe.
Armando Gonzalez’s exciting small-plate menu
merges his Latin roots with international flavors
from the Middle East (chipotle hummus with queso fresco) to Asia (scallops on black rice with long
beans and yuzu habanero sauce). Terrific cocktails
by mixologist Adam Seger. >> D Tue–Sun. Br Sun.
g c s e $$
LOU MALNATI’S PIZZERIA •
6649 N Lincoln, Lincolnwood. 847-673-0800. Pizza. Since 1971,
the Malnati family has run this deep-dish institution.
For dessert, warm chocolate chip cookie “pizza” à la
mode. (See loumalnatis.com for all locations.) >> L &
D daily. a g c y (Fri, Sat) ¢
NEAR nNo
108 Barrington Commons Ct, Barrington. 847-382-1919. Italian.
Gaetano Nardulli brings a personal take on modern
Italian to his casual hidden treasure. Crispy arancine
with a creamy center of braised chicken and provolone stands out among starters. Pappardelle, in spicy
anchovy and tomato sauce, is the don’t-miss pasta,
while the best entrée is the juicy rib eye. Yummy desserts include ricotta fritters with vanilla sugar. Wines
and clever cocktails are as well priced as everything
else. >> D Tue–Sat. a g c $$
NICHE nno
14 S Third, Geneva. 630-262-1000. Contemporary American.
Dining at Niche is a complete experience, from accommodating service and an understated dining
room to a menu of bright seasonal flavors. Buttered corn becomes a sunny soup with bits of lime
and trout, agnolotti are stuffed with chive-laced
mascarpone, and stout forms the base for a sweet
butterscotch-like pudding. Linger a bit to sample
from the expert whiskey list. >> D Tue–Sat. g $$$
OCEANIQUE nn
505 Main, Evanston. 847-864-3435. Seafood. Mark Grosz
puts haute cuisine moves—and prices—on fine sea
fare in his perennially popular and recently renovated Spanish-style haven. Expect delicate amuses
and intermezzo sorbets to frame precisely cooked
fish and shellfish garnished with freshly picked
produce in complex, if occasionally overwrought,
presentations. Succulent lobster figures in both
chowdery Michigan corn soup and a salad of heirloom tomato, avocado, and buffalo mozzarella
dappled with caviar. Port reduction makes an ideal
sauce for snowy Alaskan halibut with basil mashed
potatoes and local vegetables. Among dessert platter stars: pot de crème with caramel and Valrhona
chocolate. Vast award-winning wine list. >> D Mon–
Sat. g c s l (Mon only) $$$$
PRAGA no
229 W St Charles, Lombard. 630-495-0470. Continental.
This romantic haven entices with robust PanEuropean fare. A tart of Vienna-style goat cheese
and caramelized onion followed by veal scaloppine
in mushroom sauce with truffled wild mushrooms
tastes Old World. Big dessert selection—tableside
bananas Foster is a kick—affable service, and a
wine bar add to the charm. >> D Wed–Sun. a g
c s $$
PRAIRIE GRASS CAFE no
601 Skokie, Northbrook. 847-205-4433. Contemporary American. George Bumbaris and Sarah Stegner deliver
stylish comfort food at their perennially packed
gem. Pâté with Cognac-marinated prunes and Italian sausage with basil rémoulade, balsamic reduction, and grilled vegetables are what this place is
all about. Whatever you do, save room for a piece
of Mom’s seasonal pie, perhaps blueberry in a heavenly crust. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. a
g c l (Mon only) $
QUINCE AT THE HOMESTEAD nn
1625 Hinman, Evanston. 847-570-8400. Contemporary. Andy
Motto’s lively food makes a vivid contrast to the
placid setting. Basil shellfish emulsion accented
with curry enhances an appetizer of liquid cauliflower ravioli. Savor seared duck breast; duck confit
two ways; and foie gras mousse with wild rice and
cherries, a duck egg yolk mustard sauce, and crispy
capers made with duck egg whites. Cardamom
chocolate mousse with flourless chocolate cake and
ginger anglaise makes for a sweet ending. Descriptive wine list. >> D Tue–Sun. c s $$$
RESTAURANT MICHAEL nn
64 Green Bay, Winnetka. 847-441-3100. French. The elegant
retreat, with cream tablecloths and meticulous
service, reminds you of just how enjoyable—and
rich—formal French dining can be. Complete with
sweetbread appetizers, Dijon-style short ribs, and
yellowtail snapper with cauliflower purée, the
menu is a tribute to French fare of yore. First-rate
wine list. Three prix fixe menus ($49.50, $58, $75).
>> D Tue–Sun. a g c l (Tue only) $$$$
SAKURA JAPANESE RESTAURANT •
105 S Main, Mt Prospect. 847-577-0444. Sushi/Japanese. This
low-key spot charms with sushi, teriyaki, and shabu-shabu, plus bolder fare such as chawan mushi:
steamed egg custard with fish cake, shrimp, chicken,
and mushrooms in bonito stock. >> L Tue–Sat, D
Tue–Sun. a g c $$
TALLGRASS nnn
1006
S
State,
Lockport.
815-838-5566.
Contemporary.
beans and chorizo vinaigrette makes an enticing
starter, while juicy lamb chops in currant sauce with
parsnip purée is a terrific entrée choice. Snag the
scrumptious chocolate lava cake to end. >> L Mon–
Fri, D nightly. a g c l (Sun, Mon only) s $$$
TUB TIM THAI n
4927 Oakton, Skokie. 847-675-8424. Thai. One of the ultimate budget-friendly Thai spots in the northern
suburbs. Ignore the dated decor and the brisk
service because the food consistently shines: buttery
pad thai, aromatic shrimp fried rice, and specialties
such as garlic prawns with crispy basil leaves in
lime sauce and stir-fried pad woon sen cellophane
noodles. Fried bananas with coconut ice cream to
finish. >> L & D Mon–Sat. g c l ($3 corkage) ¢
VIE nnno
4471 Lawn, Western Springs. 708-246-2082. Contemporary
American. No one has mastered the time-honored
farmhouse arts of making jams, canning, and pickling like Paul Virant. Pickled kumquats. Preservedtomato aïolis. Milk jams. Vie offers flavors you’ve
never tasted before on a menu that moves fearlessly
from lamb bacon served atop mint-infused spring
peas to wood-fired lobster tails with braised pasta.
It’s as tasty (and tasteful) a celebration of rural Midwestern flavors as you’re likely to find. >> D Mon–
Sat. a g c l (Tue only, for parties of 1–6) $$$$
WALKER BROS. ORIGINAL PANCAKE HOUSE •
153 Green Bay, Wilmette. 847-251-6000. American. The
stained glass merits a visit, but go for the sizzling
apple pancakes, puffy omelets, and crisp and airy
waffles. (See walkerbros.net for all locations.) >> B,
L & D daily (breakfast all day). a g c ¢
WATERLEAF nn
Culinary & Hospitality Center, 425 Fawell, Glen Ellyn. 630942-6881. Contemporary American. Don’t let the asso-
ciation with the College of DuPage fool you: This is
a serious—and stylish—fine-dining restaurant with
professional chops as well as a teaching mission.
GM Jean-Pierre Leroux and executive chef Nadia
Tilkian create a relaxed experience from amusebouches to petits fours that enchants diners with
sophisticated flavors and presentations. Succulent crispy-skinned duck breast stuffed with foie
gras on butternut squash purée and diced beets
will impress a jaded gastronome, and pan-roasted
striped bass over a fricassee of frog’s legs, kale, and
white beans comes pretty close. Sure, a few edges
in service and execution have yet to be smoothed,
but a pastry-school-perfect opera cake with white
pepper ice cream and an award-winning wine list
compensate nicely. >> L Wed–Sat, D Wed–Sun. Br
Sun. a g s $$
WILDFISH n
60 S Arlington Heights, Arlington Heights. 847-870-8260.
Sushi/Japanese. This modish suburban sushi spot
excels at rolling creative maki. The adventurous
should try the Red Alert roll with crab, shrimp,
masago, and scallions over shrimp tempura, while
traditionalists will enjoy a simple combo of fresh
nigiri, sashimi, and a caterpillar roll. Fun appetizers and comfy booths make it suitable for family or
date night. >> L Mon–Fri, D nightly. a g c $$
Thanks to Robert Burcenski’s refined but vibrant cooking, Tallgrass stands tall as a prime farsuburban destination. On his three- to seven-course
menus ($48 to $88), you may find sautéed black grouper on barley with walnuts and raisins in green apple
verjus, roast capon in porcini cream, and magnificent
crisp sweetbreads in Dijon sauce with pickled grapes
and savoy cabbage. Stellar desserts, cheeses, and a
fine wine list that leans toward Pinot Noirs boost the
sophistication. >> D Wed–Sun. g $$$$
TOPAZ CAFE no
780 Village Center, Burr Ridge. 630-654-1616. Contemporary
American. A topaz-tinted beacon for suburbanites
seeking approachable fine dining, this elegant spot
boasts a big, happy following. Fragrant lobster
bisque or grilled Spanish calamari with garbanzo
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