Hair Cutting - Service Skills Australia

SIHHHDS303A
SIHHHDS
Hair cutting
Hair cutting
Skilling people for the industry
SIHHHDS303A
SIHHHDS
Hair cutting
Hair cutting
Skilling people for the industry
Haircutting
all theory and preparation for real skill transfer from mannequin activities to live models
full mapping to SIH Units available
SIHHHCS301A Design haircut structures
SIHHHCS302A Apply one length or solid haircut structures
SIHHHCS303A Apply graduated haircut structures
SIHHHCS304A Apply layered haircut structures
SIHHHCS306A Combine haircut structures for current haircut designs
SIHHHCS305A Apply overcomb techniques
individual learner resource for interactive use
female and male
full colour images
comprehensive step by step sequences
220 pages
12 try me practical cutting activities
15 full head practical cutting activities with rubrics ( checklists ) and planners ( head sheets) to complete
17 practical styling , finishing and conversion activities
commercial/ salon suggested timeframes for activities
research, activities and tasks to complete
consultation , activity rubric (checklists) and planning sheets (head sheets) for reprinting
activity head sheet samplers and answers included
a range of current commercial salon looks for activites
suitable for all college students and workplace training
suitable for use with student managed learning and lock step delivery
CONTENTS
Hair Cutting ........................................................................................................................... 3
About the learner guide ...........................................................................................................................3
About the learning activities ....................................................................................................................4
About the workplace ................................................................................................................................5
About assessment ....................................................................................................................................5
Chapter 1: Analyse client characteristics................................................................................ 6
Chapter 2: Consultation ......................................................................................................... 9
Chapter 3: Elements and principles of design ......................................................................16
Chapter 4: Tools ....................................................................................................................21
Chapter 5: Technical language..............................................................................................27
Chapter 6: Styling and finishing .......................................................................................... 30
Chapter 7: Create a haircut plan............................................................................................35
Cut framework ........................................................................................................................................ 35
Sectioning ...............................................................................................................................................39
Drawing the haircut plan ...................................................................................................................... 40
Chapter 8: Techniques ..........................................................................................................45
One length ..............................................................................................................................................46
Graduation ..............................................................................................................................................47
Increase layer ..........................................................................................................................................48
Round layer .............................................................................................................................................49
Texturising ..............................................................................................................................................50
Razor rotation .........................................................................................................................................52
Chapter 9: One Length haircuts ............................................................................................54
Create a one length haircut plan ............................................................................................................54
Try the technique – One length haircuts and finishes
1. Horizontal ..................................................................................................................................56
2. Diagonal left ..............................................................................................................................58
3. Diagonal right ........................................................................................................................... 60
Full head activities – One length haircuts and finishes
C1. One length classic ......................................................................................................................64
C2. One length – chin length ...........................................................................................................76
C3. The one length fringe ................................................................................................................84
Hair Cutting
1
Chapter 10: Graduated haircuts ........................................................................................... 88
Create a graduated haircut plan ............................................................................................................88
Try the technique – Graduated haircuts and finishes
4. Low graduation ......................................................................................................................... 90
5. Medium graduation ..................................................................................................................96
6. High graduation ......................................................................................................................100
7. Pressure graduation with razor...............................................................................................102
Full head activities – Graduated haircuts and finishes
C4. Low horizontal graduation .....................................................................................................104
C5. Medium vertical graduation ....................................................................................................112
C6. High combination layered graduation .................................................................................. 122
C7. Low combination one length graduation .............................................................................. 128
Chapter 11: Layered haircuts ............................................................................................... 134
Create an increase layered haircut plan .............................................................................................. 134
Try the technique – Layered haircuts and finishes
7. Horizontal increase ................................................................................................................. 136
8. One length layered combination ............................................................................................140
Full head activities – Layered haircuts and finishes
C8. Classic long layer...................................................................................................................... 142
C9. Shag layer ................................................................................................................................. 150
Chapter 12: Round layered haircuts ....................................................................................160
Create a round layered haircut plan ....................................................................................................160
Try the technique – Layered haircuts and finishes
9. Vertical round layer ................................................................................................................. 162
Full head activities – Layered haircuts and finishes
C10. Round layer medium length ................................................................................................. 166
C11. Box layer ................................................................................................................................. 174
C12. Box Pixie ................................................................................................................................. 182
C13. Box Pixie fringe conversion ................................................................................................... 186
Chapter 13: Over-comb haircuts .........................................................................................190
Try the technique – Layered haircuts and finishes
10. Overcomb high graduation ....................................................................................................190
11. Overcomb fade ........................................................................................................................ 192
Full head activities – Layered haircuts and finishes
C14. Combination razor cut mens ................................................................................................. 194
C15. Combination cut mens layered ............................................................................................ 200
Mens hairlines ..................................................................................................................................... 206
Chapter 14 : Consultation & learning Tools ....................................................................... 207
Sample design checklist .......................................................................................................................207
Sample design head chart ................................................................................................................... 208
Sample consulatation sheet.................................................................................................................210
Answers .................................................................................................................................................211
2
Hair Cutting
CHAPTER 7 :
CREATE A HAIRCUT PLAN
TYPICAL FINISHES FOR HAIRCUT FRAMEWORKS
There are limitless possibilities for styling hair . Each haircut form will have its limitations and understanding
the possibilities is important as a professional stylist.
There are 4 underpinning haircut frameworks . These frameworks will determine what is possible for styling
the haircut.
Most haircuts are made from a combination of frameworks .Combinations are more complicated and most
commonly used. Learn the basic frameworks first to allow you to recognise them within a design.
Shape
This is the silhouette of the hair when it is completed. Imagine the
haircut with no detail , just the outside shape.
Framework
The framework is the internal structure of the haircut , much like the
frame of a building creates the shape. We measure the framework at 5
points across the head to understand the length arrangements of the
hair cut.
Haircut texture
This is the way the surface of the haircut appears. The texture can be
altered with styling techniques or natural hair curl however , each cut
will create predictable texture.
The textures created by hair cuts are described as smooth, stacked or
layered. They describe where the cut ends of the hair are visible in the
haircut.
Hair Cutting
35
his
Time tit
y
activ
TRY ME TECHNIQUE 3
45
Minutes
Diagonal right one length
Technique:
Diagonal right one length
This cut is executed by a right handed stylist.
Make the appropriate adjustments for left handed stylists.
Line: Diagonal right 45°
Other detail:
Denman dry flat iron
conversion
In this cutting activity you will:
Step 1
cut a diagonal right 45°
Prepare the first parting by
drawing a diagonal right line
from the bottom right hand
corner up to the left at 45°.
Secure the top subsection
with a clip.
one length haircut with a denman
stretch blowdry and complete a flat
iron thermal conversion.
Equipment
Step 2
The angle of the parting
will be parallel to the cut
line at 45°.
Cutting framework
One length
All lengths reach cut line
45°
60
Hair Cutting
FULL HEAD ACTIVITY C5
Medium vertical graduation
Technique: Medium vertical graduation
Line: Vertical
Other detail: Moving guide
his
Time tit
y
activ
60
Minutes
For youernt
assessm
45
Minutes
This cut is executed by a right handed stylist.
Make the appropriate adjustments for left handed stylists.
In-salon
client
In this cutting activity you will:
cut a classic one length fringe.
Equipment
Cutting framework
Graduation
Short at cut line, gets longer towards
top of head
112
Hair Cutting
30
Minutes
Sectioning
Finished Style
Step 1
Create a solid, horizontal perimeter at the nape using
comb control.The partings above this will be cut
horizontal with tension (pressure graduation) at the back,
with no elevation. Release horizontal partings and cut the
horizontal line up to the parting extending to side at top of
ear. This will give the perimeter a strong ( hard) line.
length
guide
Step 2
The hair length at the top of the side guide section will be
used to determine the starting length of the vertical line.
Measure this guide ( use the comb to ensure the length)
and move to the back of the head.
Step 3
With the length guide from the side, direct all the hair
straight out and cut a diagonal line, increasing in length
towards the top. The guide will be held at 90° and will be
moving around the head.
Hair Cutting
113
FULL HEAD ACTIVITY C15
For youernt
assessm
45tes
Combination cut mens layered
Minu
Technique: Square layer
Line: Vertical and horizontal
In-salon
client
Other detail: Overcomb
30
Minutes
This cut is executed by a right handed stylist.
Make the appropriate adjustments for left handed stylists.
In this cutting activity you will:
cut a square layer with over comb detail.
Equipment
Sectioning
Finished Style
Cutting framework
Graduation with square layers
at top
200
Hair Cutting
In-salon
client
30
Minutes