act like a local

EUROPE
ZA
WIC
SŁO
01
Partner:
WAC
MEAT
IN THE M
KIEME
GO
Fancy a schnitzel at 3 a.m.? PA
is a butcher’s shop that serves d
dishes 24h non-stop on Friday an
go
Open: Mon-Sun
13-22,
ika
kie except F
chn
sińs
Pró
Kra 64
non-stop)
ul. Żytnia
TOURIST INFO
FOR YOUNG PEOPLE
I
SZK
IEŁU
POP
Feli
no-nonsense
made by locals
not commercial
Kozietulskiego
free map
for young
travellers
02 HOLE IN ONE
This ancientNiegolewskie
pastry goshop (PR
CUKIERNICZA) founded in 19
ating here since 1973, decided to
thing that they do best — pącze
doughnut, baked on the premise
up around noon to get their fix beW
runs out.
Open: Mon-Sat 9-till last pączek,
ul. Górczewska 15
Pias
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POW
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Esp
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Krzyżano
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2
llot
Be
Okop
a
gosz
Dłu
y
Syren
Make yourself at home. You don’t really have
to act like a local. At least half of Warsaw’s
citizens were not even born here. Strangers are
welcome no matter how strange.
go
ckie
Mire
Żytnia
na
iel
Dz
kiego
ynka
Wierz
Żytnia
Watch Polish films. Even if you don’t know the
language. Simply head to Alchemia cinema in
the Old Town for recent Polish films with English subtitles (Mondays 7 p.m., ul. Jezuicka 4,
tickets: 15 zł).
icza
lew
ow
1
Shopping ban. All shops (except for pharmacies, petrol stations and small, family run grocery shops) are closed on 13 major national
and Catholic religious holidays, including
Rabs6,
ztyńska
Christmas, Boxing Day, New Year’s Day, Jan
Easter Sunday and the following Monday, May
1 & 3, Aug 1, Nov 1 & 11.
Crack the toilet code. There are very few public toilets in Warsaw (except for metro stations
– clean, cheap and empty), so better do what
you have to do before leaving the bar. A triangle-shaped sign will take you to the men’s
room, a circle to the ladies’.
N
JA
a
oz
Gibals
Eat Vietnamese. The Vietnamese have become the largest ethnic minority in Warsaw
over the last decade. No wonder that Pho soup
Grenady
was voted one of five typical Warsaw dishes
in
a recent poll.
Bema
Learn to distinguish the two rival football
clubs. Polonia – the oldest existing football
club in Warsaw goes for elegant black, with
white and red details. The slightly younger
and more successful Legia opts for an Italian-
Ob
nia
wska
Mingle at your local klubokawiarnia.
Klubokawiarnia is a recent Varsovian invention – a café where coffee comes with a cultural
programme: exhibitions, poetry readings, concerts and debates on issues big and small. Dozens of them have sprung up all over the city.
We’ll help you find the best of the bunch.
ka
Nis
Miła
Lunch at milk bars. Probably the most cherished legacy of the communist era. For some
a necessity, for others a lifestyle choice, the
cheap bar mleczny is very popular, especially
among students, pensioners, bums, impoverished intelligentsia and hipsters. Milk bars
have been hit hard by rising rents, so hurry
Zawiszy
up and head to one of the remaining few for
a bargain lunch.
Złocie
Sokoło
Get wired. In Warsaw you don’t have to be
a yuppie to hang out in a café with your iPad.
Young people in this city often go to cafés to
work or catch up on email, an answer both to
the fast pace of life and the scarcity of free public wi-fi. Catch up on the news and check out
all the hipsters flocking around.
ki
Staw
Wawrzyszewska
ny
Syre
Old Town vs. New City. The Old Town (Stare
Miasto) is actually quite new, rebuilt entirely
after it was demolished in World War II. It may
be hard to believe that the cathedral (katedra)
was not completed until 1956 and the Royal
Castle (Zamek Królewski) dates back aaaaall
the way back to the 1980s. Although the Old
Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and
a charming place with a cozy, small-town feel,
locals do not go there very often. Restaurants
are expensive and, in most cases pretty awful.
Plus there is hardly any nightlife there because
of noise complaints from cranky neighbours,
many of whom are older than the cathedral.
Kolska
ocz
Drinking ban. Drinking alcohol al fresco is
prohibited in central areas (except for licensed
sidewalk terraces) and you can get fined even
for an innocent bottle of beer.
3
Sm
Scratch the surface. Warsaw may be hard to
fall in love with at the first sight, but you can
find treasures hidden on top floors, in basements and backyards, in small shops, galleries and crumbling pre-war buildings. There’s
plenty more here than meets the eye, so be
prepared to explore all its nooks and crannies
to find all its well-kept secrets. Plus you’ll have
lots of adventures to take back home.
Spokojna
roga
You can see an L-in-a-circle graffiti all over
the city. L with a crown on top was obviously
scribbled by a legionista, an L on gallows – by
a polonista.
Jana Ost
ACT
LIKE
A LOCAL
ACT
LIKE
A LOCAL
ACT LIKE
A LOCAL
ow
rak
04 JEWISH CENTRE
The dramatic GHETTO HERO
RIAL (unveiled in 1948) and
th
a
POWĄZKO
Dzik
WSKA were built directly
ing blocks
rsk
a
Tat
Bu
kow
a
03 ALL IS QUIET IN TH
One of the quietest corners of ce
surrounded by old cemeteries. Ta
new life of this, erm, sleepy neigh
SPOKOJNA 15. The café organ
film screenings in the summer an
bouring art school guarantees a co
of young people.
Open: Mon-Thu, Sun 12-22, Fri-S
ul. Spokojna 15
kiego
10 SWEET FAITH
If you find yourself in the touristy Old Town
and desperate for a cup of coffee, head straight
to the only place respected by the locals – the
miniature café TO LUBIĘ (‘I Like It’), housed
in the belfry of the Dominican church. Make
sure to try the baked apple with ice cream
(jabłka zapiekane pod kruszonką,
12 zł).
Open: Mon-Sun 10-22
ul. Freta 10
iego
16 WARSAW
The WARSAW RI
tragic story of Wars
War II, focusing on
the Nazis. Allow a
thing.
Open: Mon, Wed,
8-20, Sat-Sun 10-1
on Tue, tickets: 14/1
on Sun
ul. Grzybowska 79
from ul. Przyokopo
ZA
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PAGE 2
Sew
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34
30
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29
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daytime, cosy
ńs
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W
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an all-round indepe
AL
exhibitions, meetin
up-and-coming loc
a true local institut
Open: Mon-Sun 8ul. Chłodna 25
ć
11
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ka
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Ra
OLD TOWN BISTRO
For a shot of vodka and a quick (affordable)
bite to eat in the Old Town, visit KARMNIK,
a more quiet and more quality alternative to
Przekąski Zakąski (No. 25). Tatar (boeuf tartare, 18 zł) is a firm favourite.
a
ow
Open: Mon-Thuusz16-till
late, Fri-Sat 14-till late,
t
a
Sun 12-till lateR
ul. Piwna 4a
a
sk
ań
zk
cis
n
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PAGE 2
i
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Po
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07 ngTHE
STANDARD FARE
us
Sa
If you’ve
come to Warsaw for a whiff of communist nostalgia, BAR KAWOWY is one of
a few bars that have not changed since the
good old days.
Open: Mon-Sun 10-22
Aleja Solidarności 66a
a
ow
z
us
12
wa
da
go
ie
sk
ew
aj
Kr
buffs can buy books, DVDs, posters and the
like. For a cheap date, book tickets (11 zł) for
a Monday showing. In the summer check out
the re-run programme to catch up on the films
you missed during the preceding season.
Ticket booth open Mon-Sun from 10
ul. Gen. Andersa 1
OLD MARKET
SQUARE
Crowded with tourists and local families trying to have quality time together. Dead at
night. Allow yourself ten minutes to look
around, don’t eat or drink (expensive) and go
somewhere else.
rg
Ta
05 CULTURE ALL AROUND
One of the most bizarre housing blocks in
Warsaw — it looks rather like a classical palexcept July
ace with a round courtyard in the middle.
Last year the circular space got some new
Zajączka
tenants who’ve been pumping new life into
the dormant neighbourhood – two galleries:
HE WEST
entral Warsaw STARTER (young art) and FAF (photography),
ake part in the STACJA MURANÓW — a local foundation,
hbourhood at IN SITU — an art&architecture foundation
nises open air and a Jewish-themed café.
nd the neigh- Starter — open: Tue-Fri 12-19, Sat 11-15. FAF
onstant influx — open: Mon-Tue, Thu-Fri 10-18, Wed 11-19
ul.O Gen. Andersa 13
KIEG
MIŃS
Sat 12-23SŁO
06 MOVIE / THEATRE
A child once walked into the MURANÓWa
sk
tor
CINEMA and whined ‘But mom, I thought
wik
on
cka
K
n
OES MEMO- Inflwe
a were going to the cinema, not the theatre’…
skaof the place,
he surround- It best sums up the atmosphere
Muranow
i
wk
preserved
in its Stalinist glory. Interior décor
Sta
Lis
to
pa
io
w
Ka
n
Śmiała
ińsk
ek, the Polish
es. Fans queue
ego
Polski
efore
shop
Wojskathe
Open: May-Octobe
11-22; October-Ma
11-18, tickets 5/4 zł
ul. Krakowskie Prz
11
aside, Muranów is a great arthouse cinema
showing the best European and independent
productions, conveniently located next to the
Arsenał Ratusz metro station. In the foyer,
there’s also a small café and the Celuloid shop
where film
sk
a
Czarnieckie
go
MORNING ego on top of a former Jewish neighbourhood. If
ski
you go south towards ul. Nowolipie, you will
siń
ASJA SMAKU
Kra
delicious meat even see buildings elevated above street level
a
pl. Wilson
on a layer of soil and rubble. The spectacular
nd Saturday.
Fri-Sat (open MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH
JEWS is to open next year in front of the memorial. Before it does, you can just join the
Mielocals who walk their dogs and sunbathe on
ros
ła
square behind. You can also take bus
ski
RACOWNIA the wgreen
eg
#180
or owalk to the old JEWISH CEMETERY.
925 and opero stick to one ul. Anielewicza 9
ni
47
ak
ow
sk
a
er, Mon-Fri 10-21, Sat-Sun
ay, Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat-Sun:
ł.
zedmieście 68
caust about 1/3 of Warsaw’s 1.2m population
was Jewish. The only synagogue remaining
from these days is the 100-year old SYNAGOGA NOŻYKÓW, soon to be dwarfed by
the mighty Cosmopolitan Tower – a sleek
apartment building designed by the GermanAmerican guru of high tech architecture, Helmut Jahn.
Open: Mon-Thu 9-20, Fri 9-till dawn, Sun 1119, tickets: 6 zł
ul. Twarda 6
W SAW WAR
ISING MUSEUM tells the
saw and its citizens in World
n the 1944 uprising against
about 2 hours to see every-
Fri 8-18, Thu
18, closed
10 zł, free
21 FILLING THE VOID
The word próżna translates to vacant,
empty or vain. Próżna Street is indeed
rather empty, partly lined with abandoned houses that are the remnants of
a vibrant Jewish neighbourhood of prewar Warsaw. In one of them you will
find the cosy CAFE PRÓŻNA
Open: Mon-Thu, Sun: 10-23, Fri-Sat: 1024 ul. Próżna 12
(entrance
owa)
ka
ac
op
n
Ko
22
h
Tarc
ULTURE
CI the
caféOŚin
N
AR the evenings and
Dn
endent culture centre, with
ngs, talksocand
concerts by
ka
st
cal bands.
This place is
ało
Bi
tion.
ska
kow
-till late
Ząb
Ra
dzy
miń
ska
OPERA
a
cka
ńsk
dle
czy
Warsaw’s OPERASieNARODOWA
wę (National
Ka
Opera) is almost 200 years old and so huge
you could fit Milan’s La Scala on its stage. Mariusz Treliński’s often iconoclast productions of
opera classics are worth every penny and every
minute of your attention, even if opera isn’t really your thing.
Ticket booth open: Mon-Fri from 9, Sat-Sun
from 10, pl. Teatralny 1
omiń
ska
ka
rsa
Ko
ska
w
rko
Ma
a
sk
ze
Br
TA
R
GO
W
A
PRAGA
PAGE 2
Warszawa
Wschodnia
A
SK
W
IJO
K
Lubelska
ZAMOYSKIEGO
w
ze
ys
ar
Sk
a
sk
ska
Miń
ZAMOYSKIE
GO
GROCHOWS
KA
25 AROUND THE CLOCK
PRZEKĄSKI ZAKĄSKI is located in a defunct
hotel opposite the posh Hotel Bristol and the
Presidential Palace. Open 24 hours a day, it
became a local institution and it is unbearably packed on weekend nights. Bistro offers
a simple menu of classic Polish snacks (8 zł
each) and drinks (beer, vodka, wine, coffee,
tea, coke – all 4 zł). For the ultimate Polish bar
experience wash the herring down with two
shots of vodka and admire the geriatric staff.
For a home-made soup or a sandwich, check
out DELIKATESY GESSLER (open: Mon-Sun
8-23) next door. To get a taste of the expensive
U KUCHARZY restaurant around the corner
at a bargain price, go there during lunch time
and order a menu set: delicious soup, main
and dessert for 19 zł. Or go for any number of
copycat spots popping up all over the city.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13
26 HISTORY SPEAKS…
…at the History Meeting House (DOM
SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ). This venue hosts
loads of great photography exhibitions and
discussions that bring us back in time to the
Warsaw of yesteryear. The in-house bookshop,
called XX, is one of the best places if you’re
looking for publications on the history or architecture of Warsaw.
Open: Tue-Fri 10-20, Sat-Sun 11-20
ul. Karowa 20
27 ARTISTIC ENCOURAGEMENT
Housed in a pompous fin-de-siecle building since 1901, ZACHĘTA is Warsaw’s oldest
contemporary art gallery. Hosts exhibitions of
leading Polish and foreign 20th and 21st century artists, an art book shop with a trimmed
down souvenir section. Its name is drawn from
the historic Society for the Encouragement of
Arts.
Open: Tue-Sun 12-20, closed on Mon, tickets:
15/10 zł, free on Thu
pl. Małachowskiego 3
Sokola
28 FOOD ART
EUFEMIA – the basement bar/cafeteria at
ASP Fine Arts Academy is a great place for
lunch. Look out for their weekend parties too.
Open: Mon-Thu 12-24, Fri 12-04, Sat 16-04
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (entrance from
pasaż Niżyńskiego)
IELE
AL. Z
KA
NIEC
49
48
ONA
NGT
Y
ASZ
L. W
A
d
n
Ro
a
ton
ng
zy
as
oW
s
Sa
ka
Fran
cus
t
Mos kiego
s
tow
SASKA
KĘPA
PAGE 2
ka
ia
Pon
lska
e
Pos
w
có
Obroń
Ł
WA
ka
wic
o
Kat
cka
wie
bro
Dą
ów
ęzc
Z
YS
DZ
yci
Zw
a
ysk
Par
MIĘ
I
SK
YŃ
C
SOLE
i
t
Mos nkowsk
ie
ska
ncu
Fra
Walecznych
29 GHETTO WALLS
In 1940 the Jewish population of Warsaw was
confined by the Nazis behind the gates of the
ghetto. At its peak, the district covered 2,6 km²
and housed 460,000 people. In spite of that,
there is not much left neither of the buildings,
nor the actual ghetto walls, methodically taken
down after 1943. The courtyard between
two houses in Złota and Sienna streets is
one of few exceptions.
ul. Złota 62, ul. Sienna 55 (inner
courtyard)
30
(CON)TEMPORARY
MUSEUM
MSN (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej =
Museum of Modern Art) may be young, but
it is rising to fame quickly against the two stalwart contemporary art institutions in the city
(Zachęta — No. 27 & CSW — No. 102). It is
temporarily housed in a funky former furniture shop. Its programme is focused equally
on exhibitions and events: meetings, talks,
debates, screenings etc. (many of them in English). Check out the well-stocked bookshop
and the MODERNA café.
Open: Tue-Sun 12-20, admission is free
ul. Pańska 3
In the winter, the plaza in front of the northern
entrance turns into an ice skating rink, in the
summer – into a basketball court.
Watching the panorama from observation
deck at the 30th floor (114 m above ground)
helps make sense of the city. Open: SeptemberMay 9-18, June-August Mon-Thu & Sun 9-20,
Fri-Sat 9-23.45 (closes at 15 during Euro 2012
championships), tickets: 20/15 zł. Entrance
from ul. Marszałkowska, ask at the reception
for directions to the ticket booth.
34
FROM MILITARY PARADES TO
FOOTBALL RALLIES
The main entrance to the Palace of Culture
opens onto what used to be the largest square
in Europe: PLAC DEFILAD. It was laid out in
the 1950s as a ceremonial space for gigantic
army parades and political rallies. After 1989
it was completely taken over by a semi-legal
market, cleared away in the early 2000s. In the
summer of 2012 the tradition will continue
- the whole square becomes the official FAN
ZONE (STREFA KIBICA) for the UEFA Euro
2012 championship.
35 ROTUNDA
Technically speaking, it is just a branch of Poland’s biggest bank – PKO Bank Polski. In reality, it is one of the landmarks of the city, not
just for its form (extravagant, round-shaped
pavilion), but also for its history (49 people
were killed in a gas explosion here in 1979)
and for its super-convenient location: near
the metro station and dozens of bus and tram
stops, which makes it an ideal meeting point
for those who gather first and then decide
where to go. Don’t be surprised if somebody
proposes a rendez-vous at the Rotunda!
ul. Marszałkowska 100/102
Jerus
sersb
onceErect
fic is
staye
44
PAW
the b
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tered
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46
After
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ticke
Aleje
47
36 COFFEE WINDOW
Forget multinational chain coffee bars. 5.29
ESPRESSO BAR serves take away coffee in
paper cups and in style on 5.29 square metres.
You can also munch on delicious food at the
counter. No tables!
Open: Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 11-18
ul. Krucza 51
37 CHOCAHOLIC CENTRAL
A boy riding a zebra, carrying a cargo of chocolates — this rather extravagant combination
is a sign of the flagship store of E.WEDEL —
Warsaw’s traditional chocolate makers, now
— of course — a part of one of those multinational food empires that we love to hate. In
the old-fashioned interior you can have a cup
of hot chocolate, stock up on pralines, Warsaw-themed chocolates or Ptasie Mleczko –
a Wedel favourite since the 30s.
Open: Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 10-22, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8
38 OH MY BAGEL
This cute little place is one of Warsaw’s best kept secrets. Those in the
know come to MY’O’MY for a bagelburger (vegetarian versions available)
and home-made cake.
Open: Mon 11-22, Tue-Thu 10-22,
Fri-Sat 10-24, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego)
Even
your
to SY
and t
inter
(21+)
a wh
up pe
boast
built
activ
wood
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Bond
Open
ul. Sz
48
The
STAD
lande
Vistu
th
2
a
r
f
p
o
g
49
1/3 of Warsaw’s 1.2m population
The only synagogue remaining
days is the 100-year old SYNAYKÓW, soon to be dwarfed by
Cosmopolitan Tower – a sleek
uilding designed by the Germanru of high tech architecture, Hel-
Thu 9-20, Fri 9-till dawn, Sun 11zł
FILLING THE VOID
word próżna translates to vacant,
y or vain. Próżna Street is indeed
empty, partly lined with abanhouses that are the remnants of
ant Jewish neighbourhood of preWarsaw. In one of them you will
e cosy CAFE PRÓŻNA
Mon-Thu, Sun: 10-23, Fri-Sat: 10różna 12
ńsk
a
PERA
a
cka
ńsk
dle
czy
OPERASieNARODOWA
wę (National
Ka
lmost 200 years old and so huge
Milan’s La Scala on its stage. Mar’s often iconoclast productions of
are worth every penny and every
ur attention, even if opera isn’t reg.
open: Mon-Fri from 9, Sat-Sun
Teatralny 1
Lubelska
Warszawa
Wschodnia
ska
Miń
SKIEGO
GROCHOWS
KA
25 AROUND THE CLOCK
PRZEKĄSKI ZAKĄSKI is located in a defunct
hotel opposite the posh Hotel Bristol and the
Presidential Palace. Open 24 hours a day, it
became a local institution and it is unbearably packed on weekend nights. Bistro offers
a simple menu of classic Polish snacks (8 zł
each) and drinks (beer, vodka, wine, coffee,
tea, coke – all 4 zł). For the ultimate Polish bar
experience wash the herring down with two
shots of vodka and admire the geriatric staff.
For a home-made soup or a sandwich, check
out DELIKATESY GESSLER (open: Mon-Sun
8-23) next door. To get a taste of the expensive
U KUCHARZY restaurant around the corner
at a bargain price, go there during lunch time
and order a menu set: delicious soup, main
and dessert for 19 zł. Or go for any number of
copycat spots popping up all over the city.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13
26 HISTORY SPEAKS…
…at the History Meeting House (DOM
SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ). This venue hosts
loads of great photography exhibitions and
discussions that bring us back in time to the
Warsaw of yesteryear. The in-house bookshop,
called XX, is one of the best places if you’re
looking for publications on the history or architecture of Warsaw.
Open: Tue-Fri 10-20, Sat-Sun 11-20
ul. Karowa 20
27 ARTISTIC ENCOURAGEMENT
Housed in a pompous fin-de-siecle building since 1901, ZACHĘTA is Warsaw’s oldest
contemporary art gallery. Hosts exhibitions of
leading Polish and foreign 20th and 21st century artists, an art book shop with a trimmed
down souvenir section. Its name is drawn from
the historic Society for the Encouragement of
Arts.
Open: Tue-Sun 12-20, closed on Mon, tickets:
15/10 zł, free on Thu
pl. Małachowskiego 3
28 FOOD ART
EUFEMIA – the basement bar/cafeteria at
ASP Fine Arts Academy is a great place for
lunch. Look out for their weekend parties too.
Open: Mon-Thu 12-24, Fri 12-04, Sat 16-04
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (entrance from
pasaż Niżyńskiego)
49
ONA
NGT
Y
ASZ
L. W
A
d
n
Ro
a
ton
ng
zy
as
oW
Sa
a
sk
Fran
ka
cus
w
có
Obroń
ka
ka
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o
Kat
els
Pos
ska
ncu
Fra
SASKA
KĘPA
PAGE 2
ka
ska
y
Par
ów
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yci
Zw
29 GHETTO WALLS
In 1940 the Jewish population of Warsaw was
confined by the Nazis behind the gates of the
ghetto. At its peak, the district covered 2,6 km²
and housed 460,000 people. In spite of that,
there is not much left neither of the buildings,
nor the actual ghetto walls, methodically taken
down after 1943. The courtyard between
two houses in Złota and Sienna streets is
one of few exceptions.
ul. Złota 62, ul. Sienna 55 (inner
courtyard)
30
KI
(CON)TEMPORARY
MUSEUM
MSN (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej =
Museum of Modern Art) may be young, but
it is rising to fame quickly against the two stalwart contemporary art institutions in the city
(Zachęta — No. 27 & CSW — No. 102). It is
temporarily housed in a funky former furniture shop. Its programme is focused equally
on exhibitions and events: meetings, talks,
debates, screenings etc. (many of them in English). Check out the well-stocked bookshop
and the MODERNA café.
Open: Tue-Sun 12-20, admission is free
ul. Pańska 3
In the winter, the plaza in front of the northern
entrance turns into an ice skating rink, in the
summer – into a basketball court.
Watching the panorama from observation
deck at the 30th floor (114 m above ground)
helps make sense of the city. Open: SeptemberMay 9-18, June-August Mon-Thu & Sun 9-20,
Fri-Sat 9-23.45 (closes at 15 during Euro 2012
championships), tickets: 20/15 zł. Entrance
from ul. Marszałkowska, ask at the reception
for directions to the ticket booth.
34
FROM MILITARY PARADES TO
FOOTBALL RALLIES
The main entrance to the Palace of Culture
opens onto what used to be the largest square
in Europe: PLAC DEFILAD. It was laid out in
the 1950s as a ceremonial space for gigantic
army parades and political rallies. After 1989
it was completely taken over by a semi-legal
market, cleared away in the early 2000s. In the
summer of 2012 the tradition will continue
- the whole square becomes the official FAN
ZONE (STREFA KIBICA) for the UEFA Euro
2012 championship.
35 ROTUNDA
Technically speaking, it is just a branch of Poland’s biggest bank – PKO Bank Polski. In reality, it is one of the landmarks of the city, not
just for its form (extravagant, round-shaped
pavilion), but also for its history (49 people
were killed in a gas explosion here in 1979)
and for its super-convenient location: near
the metro station and dozens of bus and tram
stops, which makes it an ideal meeting point
for those who gather first and then decide
where to go. Don’t be surprised if somebody
proposes a rendez-vous at the Rotunda!
ul. Marszałkowska 100/102
36 COFFEE WINDOW
Forget multinational chain coffee bars. 5.29
ESPRESSO BAR serves take away coffee in
paper cups and in style on 5.29 square metres.
You can also munch on delicious food at the
counter. No tables!
Open: Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 11-18
ul. Krucza 51
37 CHOCAHOLIC CENTRAL
A boy riding a zebra, carrying a cargo of chocolates — this rather extravagant combination
is a sign of the flagship store of E.WEDEL —
Warsaw’s traditional chocolate makers, now
— of course — a part of one of those multinational food empires that we love to hate. In
the old-fashioned interior you can have a cup
of hot chocolate, stock up on pralines, Warsaw-themed chocolates or Ptasie Mleczko –
a Wedel favourite since the 30s.
Open: Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 10-22, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8
38 OH MY BAGEL
This cute little place is one of Warsaw’s best kept secrets. Those in the
know come to MY’O’MY for a bagelburger (vegetarian versions available)
and home-made cake.
Open: Mon 11-22, Tue-Thu 10-22,
Fri-Sat 10-24, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego)
Jerusalem Avenue, it is meant to remind passersby of the void left by the absence of the
once-thriving Jewish community in Warsaw.
Erected as a temporary installation on a traffic island in 2003, it became a landmark and
stayed for good.
44 BEHIND BARS
PAWILONY - a cluster of shabby pavilions in
the back of the touristy Nowy Świat is one of
the main meeting places for young people, catered to by a dozen or so funky bars. PEWEX
is the oldest and perhaps still the best of them.
Despite some signs of gentrification (sushi bar!
air conditioning!), all places remain affordable.
Enter the courtyard through either of two gates
off Nowy Świat.
ul. Nowy Świat 22/28/33
45 COMMUNIST PARTY HQ
One of the most despised places in the country
for almost 40 years. Opened in 1951, officially
named DOM PARTII (House of the Party) it
was jokingly referred to as the White House.
Ironically, after the fall of communism it was
taken up by an arch-capitalist institution – the
stock exchange. Now it is an office building
with a Ferrari flagship salon on the ground
floor. Lenin is turning in his mausoleum!
The elegant main lobby is open to visitors. The
small post office (open: Mon-Fri 9:30-16) is
usually queue-free, so if you still send postcards home, buy your stamps there.
ul. Nowy Świat 6/12
46 POLAND IN A NUTSHELL
After months of renovation, the National Museum (MUZEUM NARODOWE) re-opens
this spring, offering a crash course in Polish art
and history again. The building is an attraction
in itself – designed in the 1920s, it happens to
have quite a lot in common with the architecture of fascist Italy.
Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 10-18, Thu 10-21,
tickets: 15/10 zł, free on Tue
Aleje Jerozolimskie 3
47 SIREN SONG
Even if you haven’t put any smart clothes into
your luggage, try to look your best and drop in
to SYRENI ŚPIEW (‘Siren’s Song’) for a drink
and to admire the meticulously restored ‚70s
interior. The club is decidedly a grown-up
(21+), dressed-up place that functions as
a whisky bar on weeknights (from 12zł and
up per glass) and a dance venue on weekends,
boasting an in-house big band. The place was
built as a training centre for communist party
activists, but now – with stone, mosaic and
wood panels on the walls and a terrace overlooking a lush park, it feels more like a James
Bond style après ski hang out.
Open: Mon-Thu, Sun 17-01, Fri-Sat 17-04
ul. Szara 10a
48
CHEER FOR THE RED AND
WHITE
The spanking new, 58,000-seat NATIONAL
STADIUM (Stadion Narodowy) has just
landed like a huge UFO on the banks of the
Vistula, between Saska Kępa and Praga to host
the opening ceremony of the UEFA Euro
2012 championship. It was built on top of
an old stadium (the concrete sculpture of
runners from 1955 is a reminder) and the
façade is finished in white-and-red mesh
panels that directly reference the colours
of the Polish flag (it’s a national stadium,
got it?).
49
WHATEVER FLOATS
Wolska
Aga
wy
Płocka
GOING OUT
89
SHOP
a
Jakto
Wronia
METRO STATION
sk
Rogaliń
H
wa
Karolko
a
iewick
SIGHTSEEING
a
M
Przyokopowa
Skiern
zka
grod
mio
Sied
16
ska
szow
a
Hrubie
do
D
WA
TO
Szarych Szeregów
a
Bema
wskiego
TRAM
go
n
Ro
Korczaka
Krzyżano
TRAIN STATION
z
as
ie
sk
yń
HOSTEL
Make yourself at home. You don’t really have
to act like a local. At least half of Warsaw’s
citizens were not even born here. Strangers are
welcome no matter how strange.
Ch
nia
Wro
ROWA
TOWA
a
ic
Stasz
erga
89
Płock
FOOD
A
KASPRZAK
o
rod
Og
rowsk
89
Ludwiki
O
LESZN
a
elb
Waw
A
wska
a
89
ść
Kacza
a
lkow
Karo
a
wicz
o
Działd
WSKA
y
Syren
a
Brylowsk
kopow
METRO
wa
Przyo
Watch Polish films. Even if you don’t know the
language. Simply head to Alchemia cinema in
the Old Town for recent Polish films with English subtitles (Mondays 7 p.m., ul. Jezuicka 4,
tickets: 15 zł).
arsk
Młyn
kie
Tysz
2
GÓRCZE
Woln
o
Kacza
Żytnia
SK
WOL
owa
Okop
a
osz
Dług
Żytnia
Crack the toilet code. There are very few public toilets in Warsaw (except for metro stations
– clean, cheap and empty), so better do what
you have to do before leaving the bar. A triangle-shaped sign will take you to the men’s
room, a circle to the ladies’.
go
ckie
Mire
o
ieg
llot
Be
o
lskieg
ynka
Wierz
1
Shopping ban. All shops (except for pharmacies, petrol stations and small, family run grocery shops) are closed on 13 major national
and Catholic religious holidays, including
Rabs6,
ztyńska
Christmas, Boxing Day, New Year’s Day, Jan
Easter Sunday and the following Monday, May
1 & 3, Aug 1, Nov 1 & 11.
wska
Learn to distinguish the two rival football
clubs. Polonia – the oldest existing football
club in Warsaw goes for elegant black, with
white and red details. The slightly younger
and more successful Legia opts for an Italianinspired tricolore scheme of green+white+red.
Eat Vietnamese. The Vietnamese have become the largest ethnic minority in Warsaw
over the last decade. No wonder that Pho soup
Grenady
was voted one of five typical Warsaw dishes
in
a recent poll.
Sokoło
Mingle at your local klubokawiarnia.
Klubokawiarnia is a recent Varsovian invention – a café where coffee comes with a cultural
programme: exhibitions, poetry readings, concerts and debates on issues big and small. Dozens of them have sprung up all over the city.
We’ll help you find the best of the bunch.
Złocienia
ny
Syre
Get wired. In Warsaw you don’t have to be
a yuppie to hang out in a café with your iPad.
Young people in this city often go to cafés to
work or catch up on email, an answer both to
the fast pace of life and the scarcity of free public wi-fi. Catch up on the news and check out
all the hipsters flocking around.
a bargain lunch.
Płock
A LOCAL
ACT
LIKE
A LOCAL
after it was demolished in World War II. It may
be hard to believe that the cathedral (katedra)
was not completed until 1956 and the Royal
Castle (Zamek Królewski) dates back aaaaall
the way back to the 1980s. Although the Old
Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and
a charming place with a cozy, small-town feel,
locals do not go there very often. Restaurants
are expensive and, in most cases pretty awful.
Plus there is hardly any nightlife there because
of noise complaints from cranky neighbours,
many of whom are older than the cathedral.
TRAIN
jo
Kole
Plac Zawisz
y
wa
jo
Kole
Kaliska
Joteyki
ŁY
cka
Barska
MA
KO
P
za
wic
uto
Nar
Plac
em
i
ZY
A
Sękocińska
Warszawa
Zachodnia
GR
za
CK
cewic
GR
J
AL.
ÓJ
E
Niem
KIE
IMS
L
ZO
ERO
a
isk
Sp
TEN
MINUTES
WALK
ad
Ak
Mo
śliw
ick
a
IŃS
KA
łob
ow
ska
Bia
Ro
ko
s
rze
ska
Sz
c
zę
WAWELSKA
FOUR SE
Wi
nn
ick
a
SPRING
May is the time to see Warsaw a
and most exciting, with the M
Night (Noc Muzeów) and Warsaw
sic Week in May headlining do
of other events. Better avoid vi
ing around Easter – shops, club
museums and many restaurant
are shut down for at least 2
days. Unmissable: a lazy stroll
through the University district
of Powiśle (see map for tips).
EUROPE
TOURIST INFO
FOR YOUNG PEOPLE
USE-IT tourist maps and budget guides
also exist in Rotterdam, Copenhagen, Oslo, Brussels, Łódź,... USE-IT is not commer- cial, no-nonsense, free, up-to-date and
made by young locals. If you want to make the network bigger, see: WWW.USE-IT.INFO
SUMMER
This year it kicks off with
the Euro 2012 football tournament, which means an extra amount of tourists revolving around the main Fan Zone
in front of the Palace of Culture
Polish Army Day (August 15th)
the peak of the holiday season.
weather is good, the traffic is bea
which makes it a great time to w
around, enjoy the parks and the
the Multimedia Fountain shows
the Old Town (Fri-Sat, 21 or 21
end of September). Swimming in
24
ow
a
a
wsk
kot
o
Mo
a
Lwowsk
a
Pla
cN
aR
ozd
a
Mo
ha
al. S
zuc
Zol
13i
ZDOWSK
ka
kola
AL. UJA
ska
łkow
IEGO
MOVER AND SHAKER
When approaching the Old Town you
can’t miss the towering column topped
Bagatela
by a statue
of a man with a sword and
a cross. The monument in plac Zamkowy, popularly referred to as KOLUMNA ZYGMUNTA, is a token of gratitude
to King Zygmunt III Waza who in 1596
moved his seat from Cracow to Warsaw
and sparked the endless feud between
the old capital and the new. After four
centuries we are still a bunch of chancers
and nouveau riche scum to the people in
Cracow.
IE
na
ŃSK
l
Po
Y
WAR
sza
ws
Agry
u
A
BELWEDERSK
WSK
PUŁA
a
ieck
A
I
OŚC
LEGŁ
a
wsk
iowa
Wiśn
ierzo
Kazim
14 TASTE OF MOSCOW
The first ESCALATOR in Warsaw, opened
in 1949, is no longer a wonder of technology but it’s worth seeing – as a downscaled
o
kieg version of the lavish interiors of the Mosalińs
Mad
cow metro. It was actually a gift from the
Russian capital to Warsaw. Check out the
piece of original machinery in the basement by the (free and clean!) public toilet
a
n
a
ż
Ró
o
and
kieg the Stalinist décor on the lower platw
ro s
Dąb
form.
utta
Narb
wa
to
Kwia
ka
lańs
Odo
15
ła
Rac
w
icka
a
Rektorska
iela
Lite
Plac Unii Lubelskiej
POLISH-JEWISH
RESTAURANT
Given the amount of people who
visit Warsaw to experience Jewish
culture, it is incredible how hard it
is to
a decent Jewish restaurant.
tta
ufind
Narb
POD
SAMSONEM is really the only
place worth recommending, their
Jewish and
oPolish fare is delicious and
kieg
alińs
affordable.
Try the goose necks (gęsi
Mad
pipkes) or the hering and you’ll excuse
ana
the lazy service and theRóżextra
charges
for the toilet and cloak room. Packed in
the evenings and gon
o weekends, relativewskie
ly empty Dlunchtime
on weekdays (main a
ąbro
rsk
Wikto
courses: 10-30 zł).
Open: Mon-Sun 10-23
ul. Freta 3/5
J
E
OW
LUD
wieck
wic
Mar
w
dró
Fa
al. Wyzwolenia
Zba
roż
Ole
Gó
Myśli
Plac
wsk
Tw
ard
a
Krzywickiego
ska
ska
a
Koźmiń
zyń
sk
ka
RASZYŃSKA
at
Tar
c
br
z
Ro
Jazdów
na
ARE YOU CURIE-OUS?
Maria Skłodowska-Curie (a.k.a. Marie Curie), the genius chemist and
physicist who won the Nobel Prize
(twice!) was born in this house.
Pop into this delightfully old-fashioned museum and find out more
about the life and works of this
Warsaw-born genius.
Open: Tue 8:30-16, Wed-Fri: 9:3016, Sat 10-16, Sun 10-15, tickets:
11/6 zł
ul. Freta 16
09
MII
AR
AL.
ko
w
H
w
Rako
a
br
ie
Skarp
a
ie
al. Na
Myśliwie
c
a
nyk
sk
Do
Matejki
Johna Lennon
M
MOKOTÓW
PAGE 2
08
ak
ow
a
ec
iad
ni
47
k
ejs
A
ow
zk
uc
Kr
Wi
ickiej
n
Konop
As
us
ie l
ha
a
Prus
er
zy
l
Po
hn
ac
kie
no
g
ws
kie
go
Rasz
yńsk
a
ci
Top
lnik
Okó
Ko
s
h
kic
Śn
OD
NIEP
WINTER
In December many people prefer to
stay in, but there are lots of ways to escape the
pre-Christmas shopping frenzy. Unmissable:
a cup of hot chocolate at Wedel’s (No. 37).
a
ernik
Kop
go
KA
WS
AŁO
ka
AUTUMN
rego
Bato
The city fills back with people
throughout September. Theatres
start the new season towards the
end of the month. In October
classes start at universities and
the cultural season kicks off
for good. Unmissable: walks
in Łazienki Park (No. 103),
Warsaw Autumn contemporary music festival,
Warsaw
International
Film Festival, visit to the old
Powązki cemetery on All Saint’s
Day (1st November).
Cz
RSZ
rasz
not advised, but you can see Warsaw from the
perspective of a “water tram” or a ferry. Unmissable: evenings in Plac Zbawiciela
(No. 99).
C ic
a
ernik
Kop
MA
ka
go
Ond
e.
) is
The
arable,
walk and cycle
riverfront or
at the foot of
1.30, until the
n the Wisła is
wa
ęca
Książ
Chopina
an
o
Lesz
46
lna
WAWELSKA
EASONS OF WARSAW
at its greenest
Museum
w Muozens
isitbs,
ts
2
ie
Reja
45
40
P
Nowowiejska
H
51
S
43
tucji
sk
Krzyckiego
ia
M
Filtrowa
lec
ty
ons
lac K
ow
ak
Filtrowa
So
ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE
POŁUDNIOWE
PAGE
Pięk2na
No
50
P
ki e
go
a
moln
Piękna
Koszykowa
AL. NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI
a
41
c
44
ó
Wsp
za
Wilc
GO
lek
ańs
ki
Ocz
a
Hoż
SKIE
Da
n
Poz
IŃ
ŁUB
leya
Lind
CHA
ó
Wsp
H
le
H
sal
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PAGE 2
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Doln
OLD TOWN PANORAMA
St. Anne’s churchna(KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. ANNY)
Dol
is one of the most popular wedding venues. It also offers a great view of the city
and the Old Town from the belfry.
18 BIO BAZA
Every Saturday fa
vendours from the
old Norblin factor
BIOBAZAR. The v
version for office sp
Open: Sat 8-16
ul. Żelazna 51/53
19 BEST BAZ
The 111-year old
a beautiful exampl
chitecture that h
survived both wor
wars. Inside the
is a cross-secti
of modern Wars
– from thrift sho
frequented by sen
citizens on the m
zanine, to a gay
in the basement. O
you will find a fruit & veg market
stopped by to buy
the locals back in
flower stalls.
Open: Mon-Fri 7-2
pl. Mirowski 1
20 THE LAST
It is hard to imagin
C KA
ENIE
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (entrance from
pasaż Niżyńskiego)
49
48
AL.
d
n
Ro
a
ton
ng
zy
as
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ONA
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WAS
a
sk
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cus
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t
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s
tow
SASKA
KĘPA
PAGE 2
ka
ia
Pon
ów
brońc
O
a
ów
ęzc
ska
yci
Zw
y
Par
KI
ka
ŃS
ZY
YS
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MIĘ
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c
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k
wic
bro
o
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a
elsk
Pos
ska
ncu
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SOLE
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t
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Łazie
a
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órnoś
na
abrycz
WSKA
NIAKO
CZER
Łazienkowska
Szwo
leżeró
w
AR
armers and organic food
e whole region flock to the
ry to sell their wares at the
venue is earmarked for conpace, so hurry.
ZAAR
d HALA MIROWSKA is
le of fin-de-siecle civic arhas
rld
ere
ion
saw
ops
nior
mezdisco
Outside
famous
t (where Margaret Thatcher
tomatoes and mingle with
n 1988) with well stocked
20, Sat 7-18
T SYNAGOGUE
ne now that before the Holo-
23 TRIBUTE TO THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER
The three arches of what once was part of the
Saxon Palace houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The site was initially dedicated
to the victims of World War I in the 1920s.
In a miraculous twist of fate, the three arches
survived also World War II. There’s a story
that Wehrmacht soldiers escaping Warsaw in
1945 simply refused to blow up this part of the
building as a sign of respect to soldiers buried
there 20 years earlier.
24
THE STONES AT THE
QUARRY
KAMIENIOŁOMY (The Quarry) is a slice
of rock ‘n’ roll history. In this bar the Rolling
Stones threw an infamous after party after their
1967 Warsaw gig. The concert and the party
are stuff of legend now. One story has that
they were paid with a freight car full of vodka,
another one that they mistook salt for cocaine. A year later, dozens of single
mothers gave birth to Jaggermouthed babies. Reopened
in 2009, Kamieniołomy is
a place popular with the student/hipster crowd. An occasional rock concert keeps
the Rolling Stones memories
alive.
Open: Mon-Fri from 16, Sat from 20, concerts
and club nights Thu-Sat, occasionally on other
nights. Happy hours 16-20.
ul. Ossolińskich 3
29 GHETTO WALLS
In 1940 the Jewish population of Warsaw was
confined by the Nazis behind the gates of the
ghetto. At its peak, the district covered 2,6 km²
and housed 460,000 people. In spite of that,
there is not much left neither of the buildings,
nor the actual ghetto walls, methodically taken
down after 1943. The courtyard between
two houses in Złota and Sienna streets is
one of few exceptions.
ul. Złota 62, ul. Sienna 55 (inner
courtyard)
30
(CON)TEMPORARY
MUSEUM
MSN (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej =
Museum of Modern Art) may be young, but
it is rising to fame quickly against the two stalwart contemporary art institutions in the city
(Zachęta — No. 27 & CSW — No. 102). It is
temporarily housed in a funky former furniture shop. Its programme is focused equally
on exhibitions and events: meetings, talks,
debates, screenings etc. (many of them in English). Check out the well-stocked bookshop
and the MODERNA café.
Open: Tue-Sun 12-20, admission is free
ul. Pańska 3
31
PEEK-A-BOO SKYSCRAPER
One of the weirdest looking buildings in the
city – the 165-metre INTERCONTINENTAL
HOTEL has a huge hole on its lower floors. It is
not a whim of the architects, but a compromise
with people living in a housing block behind it,
who would otherwise be deprived of daylight
in their flats. Shell out €200 for a room to enjoy a spectacular panorama from the top floor
swimming pool and stand eye-to-eye with the
newest addition to Warsaw’s skyline: starchitect Daniel Libeskind’s 191-metre Złota 44
tower. ul. Emilii Plater 49
32 CENTRAL STATION
Architecture buffs should have a look at this
‘70s-era, late modernist railway terminal – just
renovated to its former glory.
Aleje Jerozolimskie 54
33 STALIN’S WEDDING CAKE
Warsaw’s most recognizable building and
an infallible orientation point. It contains
three theatres, a multiplex cinema, an indoor swimming pool, hectares of reception rooms and office space. PALACE OF
CULTURE AND SCIENCE (Pałac Kultury i Nauki), built by Polish and Soviet architects in the 1950s, was inspired both
by Moscow’s Stalinist skyscrapers and
the glamorous towers of Manhattan.
For decades regarded as a symbol of
Soviet domination, the building is
still equally loved and loathed.
You can admire gargantuan
sculptures on the ground floor
level or get a taste of the glamourous interiors by visiting one
of the institutions contained in
the palace, for instance MUZEUM TECHNIKI – a delightfully
nerdy museum of technology, complete with
a planetarium and the ‘glass maiden’ (szklana
panienka), a transparent model of a human
body engineered in East Germany (open: TueFri 9-17, Sat-Sun 10-17, closed on Mon, tickets: 12/6 zł, extra charges for the maiden and
the planetarium, entrance from Aleje Jerozolimskie). You can also visit CAFE KULTURALNA in the foyer of Teatr Dramatyczny, for
lunch (lots of vegetarian options) or a party,
or BRATNIA SZATNIA in the foyer of Teatr
Studio.
36
COFFEE WINDOW
Forget multinational chain coffee bars. 5.29
ESPRESSO BAR serves take away coffee in
paper cups and in style on 5.29 square metres.
You can also munch on delicious food at the
counter. No tables!
Open: Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 11-18
ul. Krucza 51
37 CHOCAHOLIC CENTRAL
A boy riding a zebra, carrying a cargo of chocolates — this rather extravagant combination
is a sign of the flagship store of E.WEDEL —
Warsaw’s traditional chocolate makers, now
— of course — a part of one of those multinational food empires that we love to hate. In
the old-fashioned interior you can have a cup
of hot chocolate, stock up on pralines, Warsaw-themed chocolates or Ptasie Mleczko –
a Wedel favourite since the 30s.
Open: Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 10-22, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8
38 OH MY BAGEL
This cute little place is one of Warsaw’s best kept secrets. Those in the
know come to MY’O’MY for a bagelburger (vegetarian versions available)
and home-made cake.
Open: Mon 11-22, Tue-Thu 10-22,
Fri-Sat 10-24, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego)
39 CHECK OUT MY PONCHECK
Pączek (pronounced ‘poncheck’, a doughnut of
sorts) is Poland’s favourite pastry. To taste the
best, join the queue in Chmielna street and buy
a freshly baked pączek through the window.
ul. Chmielna 13
40 HIP LUNCH SPOT
No longer a secret celebrity hang out, MIĘDZY
NAMI still retains the reputation of a fashionista/celebrity/gay-friendly venue. In fact it is
a rather casual place for lunch (great homestyle lunch menus –available till 4 p.m., under
20 zł for main course), coffee (6,50) or beer (9).
Open: Mon-Sat 12-23, Sun 14-23
ul. Bracka 20
41
CONCERTS AND PARTIES
POWIĘKSZENIE is one of Warsaw’s firm
favourites when it comes to concerts and
parties.
ul. Nowy Świat 27 (inner courtyard)
42
BRAVE NEW BOOZING
The elegant café Nowy Świat (New
World) fell prey to the real estate bust
a couple of years ago – the city which
owns the space could not find a new
tenant for this huge space. Thanks
to this twist of fate, it was offered
up to NGOs for an affordable
rent and NOWY WSPANIAŁY
ŚWIAT (Brave New World)
emerged. Run by the leftist
think tank Krytyka Polityczna, the space downstairs is
a bar that serves up cheap
lunches in the daytime and
parties in the evening. The
space upstairs is for talks, debates and other
cultural activities. Nowy Wspaniały Świat may
have to move out in August 2012, so hurry up.
Open: Mon-Sun 11-03
ul. Nowy Świat 63
43 GREETINGS FROM JERUSALEM
It may look like a joke, but the fake PALM
TREE in the middle of a busy roundabout
(rondo de Gaulle’a) is in fact a work of art by
Joanna Rajkowska. Named Greetings from
Even
your
to SY
and t
inter
(21+)
a wh
up pe
boast
built
activ
wood
looki
Bond
Open
ul. Sz
48
The
STAD
lande
Vistu
th
2
a
r
f
p
o
g
49
There
SKAR
most
aroun
parts
to th
deco
Sovie
boat,
grab
MISI
Main
the W
50
CAFE
filters
It is
hood
Open
ul. N
51
Thos
read
stroll
ing th
Kapu
morn
today
KAP
from
52
RAST
launc
who’s
their
shop.
Open
53
After
ioned
enter
vinta
open
dition
siecle
Open
4/2 z
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (entrance from
pasaż Niżyńskiego)
49
AL.
d
n
Ro
a
ton
ng
zy
as
oW
ONA
NGT
ZY
WAS
a
sk
Sa
cus
Fran
ka
SASKA
KĘPA
PAGE 2
o
Kat
a
elsk
Pos
ska
ncu
Fra
ów
brońc
O
a
k
wic
ka
y
Par
ów
ęzc
ska
yci
Zw
KI
UTE TO THE UNSOLDIER
hes of what once was part of the
e houses the Tomb of the Uner. The site was initially dedicated
s of World War I in the 1920s.
ous twist of fate, the three arches
o World War II. There’s a story
cht soldiers escaping Warsaw in
efused to blow up this part of the
sign of respect to soldiers buried
s earlier.
STONES AT THE
RRY
ŁOMY (The Quarry) is a slice
ll history. In this bar the Rolling
an infamous after party after their
w gig. The concert and the party
egend now. One story has that
d with a freight car full of vodka,
ne that they mistook salt for coe. A year later, dozens of single
mothers gave birth to Jaggermouthed babies. Reopened
in 2009, Kamieniołomy is
a place popular with the student/hipster crowd. An occasional rock concert keeps
the Rolling Stones memories
alive.
Fri from 16, Sat from 20, concerts
hts Thu-Sat, occasionally on other
y hours 16-20.
ch 3
29 GHETTO WALLS
In 1940 the Jewish population of Warsaw was
confined by the Nazis behind the gates of the
ghetto. At its peak, the district covered 2,6 km²
and housed 460,000 people. In spite of that,
there is not much left neither of the buildings,
nor the actual ghetto walls, methodically taken
down after 1943. The courtyard between
two houses in Złota and Sienna streets is
one of few exceptions.
ul. Złota 62, ul. Sienna 55 (inner
courtyard)
30
(CON)TEMPORARY
MUSEUM
MSN (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej =
Museum of Modern Art) may be young, but
it is rising to fame quickly against the two stalwart contemporary art institutions in the city
(Zachęta — No. 27 & CSW — No. 102). It is
temporarily housed in a funky former furniture shop. Its programme is focused equally
on exhibitions and events: meetings, talks,
debates, screenings etc. (many of them in English). Check out the well-stocked bookshop
and the MODERNA café.
Open: Tue-Sun 12-20, admission is free
ul. Pańska 3
31
PEEK-A-BOO SKYSCRAPER
One of the weirdest looking buildings in the
city – the 165-metre INTERCONTINENTAL
HOTEL has a huge hole on its lower floors. It is
not a whim of the architects, but a compromise
with people living in a housing block behind it,
who would otherwise be deprived of daylight
in their flats. Shell out €200 for a room to enjoy a spectacular panorama from the top floor
swimming pool and stand eye-to-eye with the
newest addition to Warsaw’s skyline: starchitect Daniel Libeskind’s 191-metre Złota 44
tower. ul. Emilii Plater 49
32 CENTRAL STATION
Architecture buffs should have a look at this
‘70s-era, late modernist railway terminal – just
renovated to its former glory.
Aleje Jerozolimskie 54
33 STALIN’S WEDDING CAKE
Warsaw’s most recognizable building and
an infallible orientation point. It contains
three theatres, a multiplex cinema, an indoor swimming pool, hectares of reception rooms and office space. PALACE OF
CULTURE AND SCIENCE (Pałac Kultury i Nauki), built by Polish and Soviet architects in the 1950s, was inspired both
by Moscow’s Stalinist skyscrapers and
the glamorous towers of Manhattan.
For decades regarded as a symbol of
Soviet domination, the building is
still equally loved and loathed.
You can admire gargantuan
sculptures on the ground floor
level or get a taste of the glamourous interiors by visiting one
of the institutions contained in
the palace, for instance MUZEUM TECHNIKI – a delightfully
nerdy museum of technology, complete with
a planetarium and the ‘glass maiden’ (szklana
panienka), a transparent model of a human
body engineered in East Germany (open: TueFri 9-17, Sat-Sun 10-17, closed on Mon, tickets: 12/6 zł, extra charges for the maiden and
the planetarium, entrance from Aleje Jerozolimskie). You can also visit CAFE KULTURALNA in the foyer of Teatr Dramatyczny, for
lunch (lots of vegetarian options) or a party,
or BRATNIA SZATNIA in the foyer of Teatr
Studio.
36
COFFEE WINDOW
Forget multinational chain coffee bars. 5.29
ESPRESSO BAR serves take away coffee in
paper cups and in style on 5.29 square metres.
You can also munch on delicious food at the
counter. No tables!
Open: Mon-Fri 8-20, Sat 11-18
ul. Krucza 51
37 CHOCAHOLIC CENTRAL
A boy riding a zebra, carrying a cargo of chocolates — this rather extravagant combination
is a sign of the flagship store of E.WEDEL —
Warsaw’s traditional chocolate makers, now
— of course — a part of one of those multinational food empires that we love to hate. In
the old-fashioned interior you can have a cup
of hot chocolate, stock up on pralines, Warsaw-themed chocolates or Ptasie Mleczko –
a Wedel favourite since the 30s.
Open: Mon-Fri 8-22, Sat 10-22, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8
38 OH MY BAGEL
This cute little place is one of Warsaw’s best kept secrets. Those in the
know come to MY’O’MY for a bagelburger (vegetarian versions available)
and home-made cake.
Open: Mon 11-22, Tue-Thu 10-22,
Fri-Sat 10-24, Sun 10-21
ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego)
39 CHECK OUT MY PONCHECK
Pączek (pronounced ‘poncheck’, a doughnut of
sorts) is Poland’s favourite pastry. To taste the
best, join the queue in Chmielna street and buy
a freshly baked pączek through the window.
ul. Chmielna 13
40 HIP LUNCH SPOT
No longer a secret celebrity hang out, MIĘDZY
NAMI still retains the reputation of a fashionista/celebrity/gay-friendly venue. In fact it is
a rather casual place for lunch (great homestyle lunch menus –available till 4 p.m., under
20 zł for main course), coffee (6,50) or beer (9).
Open: Mon-Sat 12-23, Sun 14-23
ul. Bracka 20
41
CONCERTS AND PARTIES
POWIĘKSZENIE is one of Warsaw’s firm
favourites when it comes to concerts and
parties.
ul. Nowy Świat 27 (inner courtyard)
42
BRAVE NEW BOOZING
The elegant café Nowy Świat (New
World) fell prey to the real estate bust
a couple of years ago – the city which
owns the space could not find a new
tenant for this huge space. Thanks
to this twist of fate, it was offered
up to NGOs for an affordable
rent and NOWY WSPANIAŁY
ŚWIAT (Brave New World)
emerged. Run by the leftist
think tank Krytyka Polityczna, the space downstairs is
a bar that serves up cheap
lunches in the daytime and
parties in the evening. The
space upstairs is for talks, debates and other
cultural activities. Nowy Wspaniały Świat may
have to move out in August 2012, so hurry up.
Open: Mon-Sun 11-03
ul. Nowy Świat 63
43 GREETINGS FROM JERUSALEM
It may look like a joke, but the fake PALM
TREE in the middle of a busy roundabout
(rondo de Gaulle’a) is in fact a work of art by
Joanna Rajkowska. Named Greetings from
Even if you haven’t put any smart clothes into
your luggage, try to look your best and drop in
to SYRENI ŚPIEW (‘Siren’s Song’) for a drink
and to admire the meticulously restored ‚70s
interior. The club is decidedly a grown-up
(21+), dressed-up place that functions as
a whisky bar on weeknights (from 12zł and
up per glass) and a dance venue on weekends,
boasting an in-house big band. The place was
built as a training centre for communist party
activists, but now – with stone, mosaic and
wood panels on the walls and a terrace overlooking a lush park, it feels more like a James
Bond style après ski hang out.
Open: Mon-Thu, Sun 17-01, Fri-Sat 17-04
ul. Szara 10a
48
CHEER FOR THE RED AND
WHITE
The spanking new, 58,000-seat NATIONAL
STADIUM (Stadion Narodowy) has just
landed like a huge UFO on the banks of the
Vistula, between Saska Kępa and Praga to host
the opening ceremony of the UEFA Euro
2012 championship. It was built on top of
an old stadium (the concrete sculpture of
runners from 1955 is a reminder) and the
façade is finished in white-and-red mesh
panels that directly reference the colours
of the Polish flag (it’s a national stadium,
got it?).
49
WHATEVER FLOATS
YOUR BOAT
There’s something for everyone in PARK
SKARYSZEWSKI – one of the biggest and
most beautiful parks in the city, landscaped
around a century ago to resemble different
parts of Poland – from the lakes in the north
to the mountains in the south. Admire the art
deco sculptures, have a look at the forgotten
Soviet army monument, rent a boat or a pedal
boat, walk, cycle, picnic… If you get hungry,
grab coffee at MOLO (Summer only), cake at
MISIANKA or fish at U PSTRĄGA.
Main entrance at Rondo Waszyngtona next to
the Washington monument.
50 FILTERING DOWN
CAFE FILTRY is a play on the word for coffee
filters... and the nearby water filtration station.
It is a charming café in the leafy neighbourhood of Ochota run in a former laundry shop.
Open: Mon-Fri 8-21, Sat 10-21, Sun 10-20
ul. Niemcewicza 3
51 THE REPORTER’S TRAIL
Those who’ve always wanted to be able to
read and walk at the same time can now
stroll around Pole Mokotowskie park following the footsteps of the great reporter Ryszard
Kapuściński, who used to live in the area. Each
morning he’d have a walk around the park and
today this same meandering route (ŚCIEŻKA
KAPUŚCIŃSKIEGO) is dotted with quotes
from his writings.
52 RASTER
RASTER is a private gallery responsible for
launching a few international careers. See
who’s next to make it big in the art world in
their new space set up in a former jewelry
shop.
Open: Tue-Sat 12-18 ul. Wspólna 63
53 TIME MACHINE
After over 100 years in service the old-fashioned stereoscope (FOTOPLASTIKON) still
entertains. The collection includes over 3,000
vintage slides, including pictures from the
opening of the Suez Canal, early Arctic expeditions, Princess Anne’s wedding, and fin-desiecle Warsaw.
Open: Tue-Sun 10-18, closed on Mon, tickets:
4/2 zł Aleje Jerozolimskie 51 (inner courtyard)
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EURO 2012 TEMPORARY TOURIST
INFO CENTRES
go
ynka
ckie
(June 8-July 2, 2012) Wierz
Mire
Carlsberg Fancamp, daily 10–18
na
osza
ral
DługPlac Defilad),
Fan Zone (Strefa Kibica,
kto daily
Ele
12–20
ki
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Western Coach Station (Warszawa ZachodŻytnia
nia PKS), weekdays 8–18, Saturday 8–14
Syre EŻE G
Z
BR
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Dług
August Tue-Sun 11-19
Ś
NO
AR
Official web site:
www.warsawtour.pl
ie
LID
WY
HOSTELS
dy
go
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owa
Okop
a
y
pl. Bankow
CI
WY
NIGHT BUSES
Most of the night buses (11 p.m. to 5Zawiszy
a.m.)
depart from a terminus between the Central
Złocienia
Train Station (Warszawa Centralna) and
the
o
Wolncentre. Their numbers
kieg Tarasy shopping
c
e
Złote
ość
Mir
start with an N and they
tend to be packed
Kacza
on weekends.
Kacza Night buses stop on request so
make sure to hail when you see it approaching
Grenady
the bus stop or press the STOP button
on the
ki
sz
bus when you want to get off. Sangu
zynk
Wier
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piece came from Althamer himself who
ia
Z
students who
wwith
LSKA
Pa
Zol respected in
WE
reading.
The
architecture
is
peppered
with
litcor
is slightly once been quite well known and
i
k
i
re-landscaped
part of the park based on local
ows Z
Wawrzyszewska
4,50 zł), cake (6 zł)
Grzyb
lska
Praga.
The
statue
is
made
out
of
rubber
and
cstarting
o
Wo
la
P
l
i
erary
references,
with
seven
gigantic
ge furnishings
children’s ideas about the Garden of Eden.
Open:i Mon-Thu
&
a
mounted on a spring, which makes it sway
eln
szki
open books on the façade
along ul. Dobra.DziUnpk
oniu
oli
rda
M45b
ul.
wTamka
slightly, the way Pan Guma used to sway
a in
a
wa a member’s pass to enter
k
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k
a
s
s
T
z
fortunately
you
need
w
w
O
ic
ze
bo
icza
toro
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rn
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kiew
zo
owa
front of the corner shop whenJakintoxicated.
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ia
Bagatela
the
study
spaces
but
you
can
take
a peek
inside
wa
Sien
Lesz
ko
a
Plac Unii Lubelskiej
a
c
k
e
ws
łty
Per
The locals sometimes bring the statue a bottle
So
68 BIKE BAR
ka
Placroof,
Unii Lubelskiej
from the
through
the skylight.Bagatela
ia
KA corner
his
bis- of beer and one winter somebody put a scarf
aw
i
Rondo ONZ
ota
lipk
If you are stillP hungry
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ar- Run by bicycleZłenth
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o
n
l
N
is immensely around its neck. Now that’s what I call public
ie
Dz
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ual
bar
with
Zawiszy
ka
chitecture
and
knowledge,
try
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squeze
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a
c
Ca k
u
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z
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n or a particu- art!
NO
grod
AR
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from Othe
the super-popular COPERNICUS SCIENCE
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lipie
ood is served Corner of ul. Stalowa
Złocienia
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wo
and ul. MCzynszowa
a
ost kowski
A
k
o
s
12:30-02
,
ul. Tamk
N
CENTRE
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n
a
azie
lna And don’t worry about the Beró
ises
too.
Wsp
muda Triangle’s bad rep, it’s ok as long as
you keep your phone in yourSKpocket
and
IE
IM
ZOL shady characsteer clear of fights
with
O
R
E
J
a
AL.
ters. ul. 11 Listopada
22 wogrodzk
IE
AL. Z
IE
LEN
known mass brands to obscure finds — just
69 CLASSIC COMPOSURE
ka
pick your favourite and pay 1 or 2 złoty per
toc
The 2010 celebrations of the 200th anniversary
Po
person at the bar for the privilege and play till
of the famous composer’s birth afforded Wara
i
you drop. Smokers will appreciate the large
saw a sleek new CHOPIN CENTRE, a palatial
olc
st sk
hom
Mo krzy
Bo
smoking area.
o
MUSEUM
and
fifteen
designer
BENCHES
t
ę
wi
Open: Mon 16-till late, Tue-Sun 12-till late
playing his music, scattered around the city
ul. Solec 44
Sułkow
(one of them, naturally, next to the museum).
skiego
72
Moved by the music, you can buy Chopin praSŁO
WAC
lines, Chopin vodka (both available in every
74 MODERNIST
UFO BAR
KIEG
NA
e
O
a
GTO
ski
79 M
respectable supermarket) or a life-size, gilded
A
ton
N
siń
ThengUFO-shaped
Powiśle
train
station
pavilion
TO
Kra
G
N
y
Y
z
Z
s
porcelain cast of his famous nose after you exS
alanded here in 1963 and quickly
a
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a
AL. Stalow
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pl. Wilson
plore all the hi-tech multimedia
ndwa
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go
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exhibits on his musical career
a
a
ie
k
a
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ik
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the
recently
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cksk
ńs
chn
yn
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Pró
and turbulent private life.
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ie
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ered architects Arseniusz Ro- 81
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rs
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k
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a
H
Museum open: Tue-Sun 11manowicz
and Piotr SzymaŚC
t
NO
82
H
Mos 20,
ka
AR was converted into a cult
niak
iegotickets: 22/13 zł, free ads
k
D
s
ń
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w
L
ile
iato mission on Tue
W
.SO bar WARSZAWA POWIŚLE
Pon
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L
A
ul. Tamka 43
(open: Mon-Sun
10-till late).
75
a
ck
sto
Architecture
buffs
should
o
ł
multi
ia
Walecznych
head Bup the platforms to see
wa
70 HEY,szoSISTER!
crete
a
sk
u
t
w
the pavilion on ąthe
ko other side
You cannot
Ra get inside the
lskiego
Żoliborz is a leafy modernist neighów
Z b
Wojska Po exits.
of the station – also lovingly
So
Charity Daughters conców
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restored, still housing ticket bourhood with a small-town atmosgregation but while cy80
booths and a cute little café phere and some surprising history.
ć
cling
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A few
Bo
MAŁPI
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For instance, it is the only part of
that
Fri 7-19).
through the fence and see
he riverfront.
go
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Warsaw that David Bowie saw on place
e
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ot ycię
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mber 9-20, April & October dle of the city. The nuns still grow
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When
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i
k
their
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fruit
and
vegetables
and
on
s
75 BOOKISH AND ENGt
os row
Ma lucky
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day you will see a horse drawn plough
Gdańskaka station, the rock star took resist
ą
LISH
-D
café
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koin the middle of a 21st century city.
i
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If you happened to leave the Da Vinci Code a short
rz
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er
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Sk
ni
É DISTRICT
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ak
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tivate an intellectual look at your favour71 BARBARIAN’S BOOKSHELF
ngling with theowWarsaw
stuŁOM
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sk
ZAMOYS GO
He bought a random Polish folk
skarea
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STUFF,
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ck one of a dozen cafés and CZUŁY BARBARZYŃCA is Warsaw’s first –
EGO
the
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GROC
a small shop packed full of cheap, second hand cord and hopped back on
HOWSKA
tucked between the old uni- and perhaps still the best – café/bookshop that
Open
books shipped straight from Britain.
A few weeks later he recorded the 10-22
d the university library. at
spawned the klubokawiarnia craze, named in
t
z
Open: Mon-Fri 10:30-18:30, Sat 10:30-15:30
warna, ul. Lipowa,Marien s
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eponymous album Low, remaking ul. M
i Hrabal
t
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ul. Solec 18b
ie
and
his
book
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z
a
sk
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the folk PO
tune into the song Warszawa.
a
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o
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s
ar
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cake and tons of good books - in English too.
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arska
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U ARABA
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ka
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o
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ow
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z
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s
ka
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dn
tu
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Ra on
ka
It was established Town Square
10-16
soda.
Miła
Sat 10-24, Sun 10-22).
by two young the riverfront. Muscular and confident, she
in 19
a
k
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ul. Solec 18/20
ńs
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O ź oleść
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ecka
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le
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eu
ź
ia
IE
LEN
Gw
IE
AL. Z
77
known mass brands to obscure finds — just
SSIC COMPOSURE
78
ka
c
pick
your
favourite
and
pay
1
or
2
złoty
per
o
t
brations of the 200th anniversary
Po
person at the bar for the privilege and play till
s composer’s birth afforded Wara
you drop. Smokers will appreciate the large
ew CHOPIN CENTRE, a palatial
olc
hom
Bo
smoking area.
nd fifteen designer BENCHES
Open: Mon 16-till late, Tue-Sun 12-till late
music, scattered around the city
ul. Solec 44
Sułkow
, naturally, next to the museum).
skiego
e music, you can buy Chopin praSŁO
WAC
n vodka (both available in every
74 MODERNIST
UFO BAR
KIEG
ego
O
a
ski
79 M
upermarket) or a life-size, gilded
A
ton
N
siń
ThengUFO-shaped
Powiśle
train
station
pavilion
TO
Kra
G
N
y
z
ZY
t of his famous nose after you exas
WAS alanded here in 1963 and quickly
a
AL. Stalow
oW
pl. Wilson
i-tech multimedia
nodwa
fell into disrepair. In 2009 the
o
R sz
tu
go
a
is musical career
a
a
ie
k
a
I
ik
work
of
the
recently
rediscovnż
R
cksk
ńs
chn
yn
dralesiń
czy
Pró
t private life.
SieK
ie
wę
ered architects Arseniusz Ro- 81
Ka80
rs
k
I
a
en: Tue-Sun 11manowicz
and Piotr SzymaŚC
NO
82 Miero
H
a
2/13 zł, free adAR was converted into a cult
niak
sła
sk
D
ń
I
ws
L
le
i
kie
O
ue
W
go
.S bar WARSZAWA POWIŚLE
Niegolewskiego
AL
(open: Mon-Sun
10-till
late).
a
k
c
sto
Architecture
buffs should
ało
multicolour lighting on the ceiling and conWalecznych
Bi
a
head
up
the
platforms to see
w
crete mushroom-shaped canopies over the
zoSISTER!
ska
w
the pavilion on ąthe
ko other side
get inside the
lskiego
Żoliborz is a leafy modernist neighZ b
Wojska Po exits.
of the station – also lovingly
ughters conców
Obroń
restored, still housing ticket bourhood with a small-town atmosut while cy80 CAFFEINE RESISTANCE
booths and a cute little café phere and some surprising history.
KruczkowskA fewZajączka
years ago the citizens of Żoliborz realised
MAŁPI
BIZNES
(open:
Monhave a look
For instance, it is the only part of
that their main square had become a boring
Fri
7-19).
fence and see
o
TA
Warsaw that David Bowie saw on place with banks and pharmacies driving rents
ieg
RG
sk ców
ul. Kruczkowskiego
3B
field in the midA
z
OW
ow
SK his way back from Russia in 1977.
ot wycię
too high for any cafés to sustain. KAWALERp
W
A
o Z
y. The nuns still grow
Kł
JO
KA WILSONPLATZ is a sign of victory of the
KI
When
the
train
stopped
at
Warszawa
it and vegetables and on
75 BOOKISH AND ENGou will see a horse drawn plough
Gdańskaka station, the rock star took resistance movement – a cosy neighbourhood
LISH
café with relatively long opening hours. Das
of a 21st century city. rzei
ew walk, incidentally in the diIf you happened to leave the Da Vinci Code a short
sz
vid Bowie worshippers are kindly asked to lay
ry
Ok
a
on the Berlin-Moscow train or want to cul- rection
Sk
of Żoliborz, not the centre. flowersKIEin
front of the Empik bookstore nearby,
GO
IŃS
tivate an intellectual look at your favourBARIAN’S BOOKSHELF
ŁOM
ZAMOYSKIEGO
He
bought
a random
Polish
folk
kare- Swhere the singer stopped to shop for records
s
ń
ite klubokawiarnia, try ALL THAT STUFF,
Mi
ZAMOYSKI
BARZYŃCA is Warsaw’s first –
EGO
the
train. back in 1977.
GROC
a small shop packed full of cheap, second hand cord and hopped back on
HOWSKA
still the best – café/bookshop that
Open: Mon-Thu 9-22, Fri 9-23, Sat 10-23, Sun
books shipped straight from Britain.
A few weeks later he recorded the 10-22
klubokawiarnia craze, named in
o
ikt
Open: Mon-Fri 10:30-18:30, Sat 10:30-15:30
nw
cka
he Czech author Bohumil
eponymous album Low, remaking ul. Mickiewicza
27
Ko
i Hrabal
t
an
Mos nkowsk
Infl
ul.
Solec
18b
k The Gentle Barbarian.
Coffee,
zie
a
dz
a
ist
CKA
K
MIC
I EW
A
I CZ
ka
Czarnieckie
Ka
ni
ow
s
iego
ka
nc u
Fra
rsa
Ko
Śmiała
ńsk
Feli
Kozietulskiego
I
ska
SZK
omiń
Ra
dz
IEŁU
POP
ka
h
Tarc
s
Sa
a a
o w us k
rganc
TaFr
ym
ińs
ka
11
L is
ka
go
ac
to
pa
d
op
KA
ŃS
LO
a
n
Ko
EL
GI
JA
ŻOLIBORZ
IE
CK
MI
A
CZ
WI
aj
Kr
a
sk
loń
gie
a
sk
ze
Br
Ja
lska
ka
ws
rko
Ma
ska
e
Pos
ie
sk
go
ska
Mi
ęd
zy
pa
rko
Lubelska
wa
a
sk
iń
es
rz
W
o
ieg
sk
ow
I
ak
SK
er
Si SZYŃ
Y
DZ
y
Par
MIĘ
ew
Ł
WA
cka
ka
wic
ie
ow
o
Kat
br
Dą
a
k
ńs
nie
Pa
IŃ
GI
JA
SK
the folk PO
tune into the song Warszawa.
zika
D
WĄZKOWSK
a
EC
Sokola
CZ
SZ
ska
Pias
E
a
rsk
a
Tat
rn
ko
Po
ow
rak
Bu
EŻ
RZ
kow
a
YB
W
Ła
s of good books - in English too.
Fri 10-22, Sat 10-23, Sun 12-22
sk
Muranow
ki
81
o
eg
ski
ow
art
ka
Lew
ińs
ym
POW
A
us
I
ofa
eran
to
a
sk
Esp
a
loń
sk
gie
ze
ka
Br
Ja
ws
a
rko
ocz
Ma
Sm
enh
aka
ie
sk
Zam
AI
rs
Ko
ow
zk
Ł
AW
AP
ci
WSKA
NIAKO
OKO
Wałowa
ra
nif
Bo
DERSA
ka
elic
Ra
dz
to
Lis
11
GEN. AN
s
rm
Ka
N
JA
ska
roga
KIE
ś
Ko
KA
omiń
NIEC
h
Tarc
IELE
wa
e
LS
eż
HE
rz
ŻE
go
ZE
yb
W
CZER
Jana Ost
r
Ta
BR
WY
boi
A
AL. Z
ka
SK
Du
ac
pa
op
Ń
LO
da
n
Ko
EL
ika
Dz
IE
w
Sta
MILK
BAR RELIC
wa
76 1500 REASONS
TOtaloVISIT
On
the
edge
of a quiet 60s housing estate there
a
S
77
PARKLIFE
ow
z
1500 SQ. METERStuFOR
RENT or simply 1500
s
milk bar SADY (open: Mon-Fri Fr
a spring skais a classic
In
ka
SpokPOTOCKA
Park KĘPA
is a magnet
Ra
ckin
ojna
ń
ży
Nis
dle
czy
is one of the biggest
clubs with
ni a quality proSie
wę
er
7-19, Sat-Sun 9-17) — a perennial favourite
Kacaand
summer.
You
can
rent
a boat
at
the
sk
Dubo
a
CI lost
gramme of electronic and indie music.
Get
is pensioners. It boasts
ła
MERMAID
OŚ
students and
Mi
nal, have
at the cult bar U ARABA
(ul. among local
a
a
RN
ki
Kolska beer
sk
in the labyrinth space surrounding
taw
DAa courtń
I
S
e
L
ord and a shield, the MERMAID
an open kitchen, designed before open kitchil
O
Gwiaździsta
1,
open:
Mon-Sun
10-22)
and
W
S
.
i
AL in to LOVE
st skyard. In the daytime you can pop
nka)
ka
a is the official symbol of theMo krzy
in the evening – admire Maurycy
Gomu- ens became fashionable. After lunch you jecan
a
Nis
ow
ck
o
rska
AND TRADE — a shop selling young Warsaw
Święto
ęt
sto
i
eip lots of statues scattered around
get an espresso and cakeAnnext
door, at POMIAlicki’s
neon
light
installation
LIGHTSPURT
ało
ielewicza
i
Św a
B the
fashion
brands
(open:
Tue-Sat
13-19)
or
to
w
ou can’t avoid the one in the Old
o
(Światłotrysk)
in the shape of a glass of pink NOWSKI’s (open: Mon-Fri 9-18, Sat 9-16, Sun
sz
ka
na
tu
STO900 café (open: Mon-Thu 9-22, Fri 9-24, Ząbkows
Ra on
but we’re fonder of this one
10-16) — a family run pastry shop, establishedl. Kras
soda.
Miła
p
ia
Sat 10-24, Sun 10-22).
aw
t. Muscular and confident, she
in 1920, which Pmoved
here from the centre
Wawrzyszewska
ul.
Solec
18/20
a
z city and its
s the character
of the
a few years ago. Architecture enthusiasts can
na
jęc
nia
78 SPORTS MUSEUMngtona
Za romantic and
ONA
ew sister of the
ad-ass
have a walk
na around thei Sady housing estate
Dr
NGT
y
iel
Y
z
Z
pk
s
MUZEUM SPORTU I TURYSTYKI
Dz
AS housed
o
oli
TA
penhagen mermaid.ka The statue,
Wa
(1962)
in
the
back Nof
L. W
ow the pavilion that houses
ieg
A
k
o
a
R
z
s
d
Ob
GO
ic
A
m
w
in
the
sleek
new
Olympic
Centre,
is
a collecn
w
o
SK
oz
W
1939, was modelled
Ta on the stuot
Ro Aniele
the bar & the café. The architect, the late Halina
W
A
ow łop
Ka
JO
tion ofKI3000
items of sports
memorabilia and
yka
a Krahelska, who tragically
died
Skibniewska, laid out the buildings in a configki
ołt
s
S
t
s ow
a permanent exhibition on Polish
Olympic vicMo ąbrthe
wia
n the uprising Sagainst
Nazis,
uration
that made it possible to save hundreds
i
Pa
ka
ol ko-D
s
lipk
tories.
If
the
sight
of
all
these
gold
and
silver
i
ecląs
w
wo
na
ze
a new historical dimension
to the
rze
Ś
Noof fruit trees that had grown here before, mak- pl.
iel
ys
t
z
r
s
Ok
o
a
D
medals makes you
M
Zawiszy
iego
CI
Sk feel like practising yourself,
ing it like an urban secret garden
zk
wsk
OŚ in the city.
iato
ow
RN
try the horse stable AGMAJA next door (open: ka
Pon
IDA
e
ZAMOYSKIEGO
sk
i
L
cked by the construction
site
of
ul.
Krasińskiego
36
p
s
O
i
l
ieg
Złocienia
.S
Miń
wo
ZAMO
Tue-Sun), which offers
horseback
rides along
AL
YSKIEGO
No
o you can get
metro station, but
GROCHOWS
KA
the
Vistula
(50
min./60
zł).
o
g
rom Świętokrzyski
Bridge.
Woln
ynka
ckie
82 LOCAL GRUB
ość
Walecznych
Wierz
at
Mire
Open:
Tue-Fri 9-17, Sat-Sun
10-17, tickets:
Marien szt
a Sat
ŻYWICIEL is a neighbourhood restaurant that
10/6
zł,
free
admission
Kaczon
sza
o
g
Dłu
acza
YOU GAME?
lna
takes pride in serving typicaloraWarsaw
cuisine,
ul. WybrzeżeK Gdyńskie 4
So
arska
Grenady
Bedn
kt
ców
lec
shabby
pavilion next to a railway
Ele the faint at heart,
Obroń
e.g. tripe (flaki – 16 zł). For
i
k
irows
EC is famous for its modernised
there are salads and other standard
internaŻytnia
pl. M
Żytnia
79 METROPOLISH
e (served until very late in the
tional fare.
Voted
the
most
beautiful
of
Warsaw’s
metro
a collection of games; games as
Open: Mon-Sun 10-23
a
O
ow
a
stations,
PLAC
WILSONA, at Żoliborz’s
main
i
LESZN
rod
not as in
‘Playstation’
. From awellrow
st sk
Og
pl. Inwalidów 10
na
Ka
w
Mo krzy
śl
ó
square,
is
certainly
the
most
extravagant,
with
wa
c
G
Wi
Ó
o
z
RCZEWto
ip
ię
a
A
er
Si
rda
na
Sien
Tw
a
109
a
zna
Żela
a
lska
n
dzia
107 Obrońców
ka
e
Pos
O
R
WA
TO
cka
a
wie
Ł
WA
wy
Aga
Płocka
Sokola
na
iczna
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w
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sk
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cus
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do
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ick
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ńs
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sk
Sa
Fran
Przyokopowa
a
Karolkow
a
sk
Rogaliń
iewicka
szo
rda
a
Tw
a
Łuck
108
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rzybow
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CONTEMPORARY ART IN
ka
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a
cz you will find a bit of Scandinavian
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countryside
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Bęc Zmiana Foundation
www.funbec.eu
Contributors: Grzegorz Piątek, Magdalena
Kobus, Paulina Jeziorek
Design and Illustration: Cyber Kids on real
Dominik Cymer, Justyna Dybala
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ierzo
Kazim
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EGŁO
ODL
ELIZABETH, USA
My favourite area is around
the Palm Tree because
there’s so much to do
and see over there. During the day you can shop
around and find some really
KALINA, HOLLAND
Summertime in Warsaw with
its green parks an d outdoor festivals and bars is
great. Stroll around Park
rego
Skaryszewski to have the
Bato
best cakes in town at MiHAROLD, FRANCE
sianka or go to Pole MokoMy perfect day in Warsaw?
towskie and its famous bar
Breakfast at Charlotte, cka
wie
Rako
Lolek. For the evening indulge
a walk in Łazienki park,
a Polish lunch at Pod Bar- yourself at Warszawa Powiśle, a train station
bakanem, a gin tonic at the turned into a bar!
utta
Narb
40th floor of the Marriott Hotel during happy hours, a diner at U Szwejka PIERRE, LUXEMBOURG
Warsaw has kmany
parks that
and finally, a beer, while listening to a live coniego
alińs
Mad
are worth
visiting but my facert at the Cafe Kulturalna. utta
rb
Na
vourite one is the Łazienki
Park. You should go there
JOSH, USA
Warsaw is a great city
to exin September
when there
o
g
na
skie
Róża
daliń walk. Plan B
are open-air
piano
conplore andMajust
o
kieg
rows for free and
certs. TheyDąbare
is one of my favourite bars
na
ka
I’ve ever been to, get their you
can come and godwhenever
you
Róża
lańs
O o
tuna fish and corn baked like. Lay down on the grass, enjoy the sun and
potato! I love U Szwejka listen to the music.
o
kieg
for their 7.50 zł beer
(7.50
rows per
Dąb
rska
litre!) and their 15 zł schnitzels on Mondays.
Wikto
Club Mono is great to dance your pants off!
NIEP
ANDREAS,
GERMANY
Looking from the outside at the 1500m2 club
it’s hard to imagine that
behind these walls you will
find a mix of street art, electro
music, good food and fashion. Not only when
some of the best DJs in the world are playing
it’s worth to get lost in the maze.
IE
Bagatela
delicious restaurants and at night there’s always
something happening. There are some nice
cheap bars over there to hit up before the clubs;
there are also some really great fancy bars too.
There’s something for every budget!
Mad
o
kieg
alińs
ZDOWSK
ska
łkow
sza
na
ka
IEGO
rasz
ŃSK
l
Po
Y
WAR
Ond
ALEKSANDRA,
POLAND
While being in Warsaw
you need to visit Filtry
area, walk around, drink
coffee in kids-friendly cafe
Kolonia and feel the ambiance of this quarter. My favourites places to
eat are Beirut and Tel Aviv at Poznańska street.
To drink original coffee and eat an enormous
piece of cake go to Ministerstwo Kawy near
to Plac Zbawiciela. I like to spend evenings in
Latawiec where you can find live music every
Thursday.
AL. UJA
Mar
Rasz
y
Pla
DLEG
Rektorska
a
As
nyk
Krzywickiego
a
RASZYŃSKA
Tar
czy
ńsk
CK
A
ÓJ
E
W
DO
II LU
RM
A
AL.
O
NIEP
Krzyckiego
hn
ac
kie
no
g
ws
kie
go
M
KASPR
R
Bema
GR
ka
Jazdów
na
l
Po
cka
rat
ie
83
Ludw
84
c
a
go
ie
sk
ow
ak
No
AL. NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI
ka
is
Sp
em
i
y
SyrenRozb
wska
Sokoło
Skarp
rego Myśliwie
Bato
Johna Lennon
GO
KIE
IŃS
ŁUB
CHA
leya
Lind
Matejki
WHAT’S ON TODAY?
Plac Unii Lubelskiej
Published by the City
of Warsaw
a
sk
ka
lna
ó
Wsp
ej
Wi
ańs
Most museums and galleries are closed on
Monday, except for the Warsaw Rising Museum (No. 16, closed Tuesday). On Thursday you
a
ż
Ho
OFFICIAL INFO POINTS
can visit free of charge the two major contemPalace of Culture and Sci- porary art galleries: Zachęta (No. 27) and CSW
ki
Ocz
ence
(Pałac
KulturyWilcza (No. 102), on Tuesday – the National Museum
ękna
i Nauki, entrance from (No. 46), on Sunday – thePiWarsaw
Rising MuPiękna
Koszykowacross
ul. Emilii Plater,
a
seum (No. 16), every day – the Museum
of
Chopina
from Złote Tarasy shop- Modern Art
ucji
t
(No.
30).
y
t
ns
o
K
ping centre), May–August
Plac
Ko
daily 8-20,
sz
yk
ich
ow
ck
January–April, September– Dee
a
ad
i
Śn
cember daily 8-18
Nowowiejska
Central Train Station (Warszawa For the latest on the party listings,
al. Wyzw
decipher
olenia the
Plac
Zba
Centralna), daily 8-20
Polish-language schedule published
wic in Aktivwa
ie
la
Filtrowa
Old Town
Market Square (Rynek Starego ist, a free monthly guide available in
dozens
Miasta
19/21/21a),
May–August
daily
9-20,
of
bars,
clubs
and
cafés.
Warsaw
Insider
and
METRO
d
a
k
WeA haveoc only one metro line but we are very January–April, September–December daily Warsaw In Your Pocket are monthlies pubM
Reja
9-18
lished for expats and tourists, with lots of, erm,
ia
proud of it,
M as it is one of the safest and cleanLite
LSKA
rów
Chopin
Airport, Terminal A, arrivals, exit 2, insider insight, availableandfrom
newsstands
for
ws
est in Europe and fully adapted for the needs WAWE
ka
Ole
May–August daily 8-20, January–April, Sep- 10 and 5 zł respectively, but if you’re lucky
of
the
disabled.
It
runs
daily
from
5
a.m.
to
12
A
LSK
WE
WA
you can spot a free copy in a bar orZola hotel
a.m., extended till 3 a.m. on Friday and Satur- tember–December daily 8-18
i
Kordegarda, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście lobby. Those with access to internet can check
day nights.
15/17, January–March, September–December the official cultural info web site in English:
a
Tue-SunLe11-18,
April Tue-Sun 11-20, May- www.kulturalna.warszawa.pl
szow
a
dzk
ogro
Now
al. Na
Ws
Cz
56 saNO NAME
BISTRO
Wi
ru
nn
SK
RunP by two Praga
ick enthusiasts,
WOL th
a
tro does not have a name, but it
popular. It feels like a big kitchen
larly stylish milk bar – home fo
nickiej
Konop
MUSEUMS
ska Sat-Sun 11-19). A
Mon-Fri:Bar
9-19,
to the inner courtyard ato SEN
z
owic InżyniersA
(‘A Bee’s Dream’a, rutul.
N
RCZEW
Plac Thu-SatGÓ
Tue-Wed
18-02,
18-05,
KO
PIŃ
— a big, split-level
venue
that
is
SK Rabsztyń
A
ska
a causal beer with friends (upstai
W
a big party (downstairs). TheWA
déc
ęca
strange and
Książsurreal, with vintag
and toilets installed in old lifts.
wa
o
Lesz
a
póln
KA
WS
AŁO
RSZ
n
Poz
L
OZO
Warsaw is not always easy to navigate on
JER
AL.
foot or by bicycle, so although walking
is the best way to discover the city,
Plac Zawisz
considery using public transportation to get from one neighbourhood to another or
across the river. It’s
cheap, safe and reliable.
Da
In 2012 Warsaw
lek is una
dergoing a big infrastructure overhaul with projects
such as the construction of 2nd
metro line reaching a crucial phase,
so expect temporary street closures and
detours.
Filtro
ka
rasz
Ond
Br
ac
De
owskiego
o
ka
nd
o
Ro
R
ka
z
ko
d
ro
g
s
o
Plac Trzech Krzyży ows
Now
ka
ia
w
a
r
Żu
Rondo Dm
a
TOURIST INFO
CENTRES
WAWELSKA
’a
le
ul
Ge
MA
A
OW
KIE
IMS
a
ok
ick
GETTING AROUND
lna
Smo
Reja
cza
Kr u
R
WA
TO
inn
AŁ
Y
C
Wid
ter
ska
da
ia
M
KA
LS100
złoty (abbreviated PLN orWAzł)
WE=
groszy (gr)
Exchange
rates vary from day to day, but to
a
Złot
make things simple, think €1 = 4 zł, $1 = 3zł
To exchange money look for a sign kantor, to
lna
mie
cash, ask
Chwithdraw
W for the nearest bankomat.
ow
G
a
ln
hmie
la
E. P
iana
Ro
ko
s
zna
Żela
dz
Mie
THE MAP
Krokodyl — ul. Czapelska 24
A
na
1nPolish
Sie
Zgo
go
SK
Ślis
c
Mo
a
Złot
Krzyckiego
MONEY
PIŃ
ki
RZ
órsMarymont metro station
Galeria A19 G—
YM
a
italn
w
Wronia
o
gOUTSIDE
kie
ad
Ak
a
Si
A
ka
ŻOLIBORZ
TA
ROSul. Felińskiego
ska
Wilson HostelP—
37
Pań
ńs
a
YM
a
c
ŁY and on some trams and buses.
Pere 5,
Apartamenty Melon — ul. Inżynierska
za
Rondo ONZ
wic
ul. Floriańska 8
uto
Nar
lac
P
a
Hostel Fabryka
—
ul.
11
Listopada
22/21
k
KO
Łuc
MOKOTÓ
83 BAR HOPPING IN T
POLE MOKOTOWSKIE is a hu
on the site of Warsaw’s first airp
with everyone: from roller skater
to students from nearby unive
crowded on summer weekends. O
lunch at RECTO VERSO (open: M
Sat 10-15) — a newly refurbishe
the NATIONAL LIBRARY (Bibl
dowa, al. Niepodległości 213)
a
84 THE ZIGGURAT
Doln
Architecture enthusiasts should c
Dolnacampus of the Warsaw School o
(SGH) erected between the ‘20s
located next to the Pole Mokoto
station. The ziggurat-shaped skyl
courtyard and the light-filled lib
are the main attractions.
al. Niepodległości 162
85 COMIC CENTRAL
Comic book lovers should chec
TRUM KOMIKSU, a basement
than its name. New and old stuff
including rare vintage Polish bo
seventies.
Open: Mon-Fri 11-19, Sat 11-15
al. Niepodległości 148
86 ICE DREAM
You’ll forgive the radioactive p
walls once you get a taste of the
eran
to
al. S
zuc
ha
OKO
Esp
rda
Tw
a
a
Lwowsk
Krzywickiego
RASZYŃSKA
rda
a
kopow
Przyo
cka
hn
ac
kie
no
g
ws
kie
go
Rasz
yńsk
a
Rektorska
a
nyk
As
dzk
ogro
Now
ska
O
zyń
Tar
c
RASZYŃSKA
GR
Le
to
Mo
ko
POW
A
Rektor
Tar
czy
ńsk
a
A
CK
ÓJ
E
a
A
CK
em
i
a
ick
śliw
cz
ę
a
ska
rze
łob
k
rasz
Bia
home, get your m
a sleek café stocke
papers and iPads –
Plus a whole wall oL
ists.
a
ieck 7-2
Open:RaMon-Fri
kow
ul. Waryńskiego 28
Ond
94 EXPECTWATHE UNEXPECTED
go
tore
A gallery of sorts run by BĘCBaZMIANA
foundation (the editors of this map). You will leave
with your pockets stuffed with leaflets and
Wi
nnfull of cool books and Warsaw-themed
a bag
ick
a
souvenirs.
Open: Mon-Fri 13-20, Sat 12-16
ul. Mokotowska 65
WELSKA
98 STALINIS
Try to imagine wh
WARSAW CAKE
We are still wondering how this pastry shop if the 1950s Stalini
and money to tran
survived in a neighbourhood where gentrificautta
b
r
a
N
tion is swiftly kicking the old timers out.
One their taste. The MD
of its secrets may be wuzetka. Wuzetka, also in 1952, served as a
called WZ is a typically Varsovian delicacy — ment. Admire the
a layer of cream wedged between two layers
ofkiegodubbed ‘palaces fo
alińs
and genuinely scar
Mad
chocolate cake.
heroes, the Four S
Open: Mon-Fri 8-18, Sat 8-15
na
mosaic decoration
Róża
ul. Piękna 7/9
main square (PLA
the 1960s neon sig
o
on
the
kieg corner of u
96 TECH SAVVY
rows
b
Dą
The main building of POLITECHNIKA WAR- 2005. There is not
SZAWSKA (Warsaw Technical University) is linist shop interior
one of the most unusual public buildings in of their grandeur a
Warsaw, owing to its grand inner courtyard Mon-Fri: 8-20, Sat 9
95
ŚCI
EGŁO
ODL
NIEP
SCULPTURE PLEASURES
Ro
ko
KRÓLIKARNIA
so
ws
ka
(from królik = ‘rabbit’) is a lush classicist
villa
built as an aristocratic rabbit-hunting and girlchasing den. The place is worth visiting for the
semi-permanent exhibition Skontrum (open
till the end of 2012) which presents the sculpture collection of the National Museum in all
its glory. The palace is surrounded with a green
park and features a homey book shop/café.
Open: Tue-Sun 10-18, tickets 8/4 zł,
free on Thu
ul. Puławska 113a
Krzyckiego
cka
hn
ac
kie
no
g
ws
kie
go
Rasz
yńsk
a
Kaliska
As
nyk
a
GR
ÓJ
E
ka
91
Sz
Rasz
yńsk
a
Mo
k
em Rek
ick
a
hn
ac
kie
no
g
ws
kie
go
na
al. S
zuc
ha
owa
Przyo
kop
Tw
a
Płocka
Aga
wy
em
i
SKIE
LIM
OZO
JER
90 GENERATION COOL
Niem
cewic
za
For those who appreciate a funky vintage inte-OLIMSKIE
Z
O
ER
J
rior, there’s REGENERACJA. The wordAmeans
.
wa
L
oNUMBERS
93
BOOKS
BY
Lesz
ńska
‘regeneration’, but most nights people come SękociNUMERY
LITERY (‘Numbers and Letters’) is modelled after ren
here to do exactly the opposite. In the daytime Joteya comfy
ki
café with a small but careful selection much bigger. If you
hopefuls
it serves up some tasty breakfasts and
lunches
GR
wa
of
books
and magazines. Focus on art, interiors Filtrogineering
ZY
Barska
MA
to regenerate the body and spirit (lunch
at
Łsets
Y
and children’sa books. One of our afternoon fa- floor. pl. Politechni
z
ad
18 zł served till 5 p.m.).
wic
Ak
uto
vourites
c the kids.
Nar— with or without
Mo
Plac
eja
Open: Mon-Sun 11-till late
KOpen:
ia
OP
Mon-Fri
9-19,
Sat 12-19
ul. WilczaR26
97 SPACEABA
M
IŃS
KA
WELSK
ul. Puławska 61
If you feelWAlike
catc
isk
ska
AL.
leya
wa
Ś
Dolna
Sp
rze
go
ie
sk
C
Nowowiejska
Lind
Reja
jo
Kole
rasz
łob
ow
ak
No
TEL AVIV OR BEIRUT?
aside, you can choose between two
Filtrowa
Middle Eastern-themed bars — TEL AVIV
a
k
ic
(open:
Mon-Thu
8-24, Fri 8-02, Sat 10-02, Sun
wa
łaowlejo
Rac K
Plac Zawiszy
10-24)
and BEIRUT
(open: Mon-Sun 12-04).
Both serve hummus and other delicacies. If
KA
WELS
you feelWAlike
something
Polish, head next door
to
TEKTURA
(open: Mon-Sun 17-02) with
a
Odyńc
a good selection of beers, open sandwiches and
Da
lek
tasty potato pancakes. ul. Poznańska
11-12
a
zna
92
a
torsk
Żela
iana
dz DLEGŁOŚCI
AL. NIEPO
Mie
WA
RO
WA
TO
R
Ond
Bia
ka
ańs
Wronia
Przyokopowa
Korczaka
a
Grz
ców
Wali
a
a
Karolkow
ick
n
Poz
ŁA II
PAW
w
GO
KIE
IŃS
ŁUB
CHA
ley
Lind
iowa
a
Krzyckiego
liw
JANA
lna
hma
Kroc
có
Wali
Chło
nia
Wro
Wiśn
wsk
a
ska
ęś
A
BELWEDERSK
ROWA
TOWA
dna
SKIE
OLIM arbutta
ROZ
N
E
J
a
AL.
dzk
Wolska
ogro
Now
Ro
ki
irows
pl. M
ła
Bia
na
laz
Że
A
WSK
PUŁA
a
na
ral
kto
Ele
92
This neighbourhood, wedged be- ólna
Plac G
Wsp
tween
the
noble
embassy
district
in
a
a
a
ka
Tw
Hoż
rowsk
bows
o
Jakto
Grzy
kieg
the
east and
H
alińs the remnants of War- ereca
Mad
P
ki
saw’s red light district
in the west has
Ocz
Rondo ONZ
za
Wilc
become
the
hippest
part
ka of the city,
a
c
k
u
z
Ł
grod
io
m
Sied
especially along
Mokotowska. SomeKoszykowa ŚliPiskęk
a na
żana
a
STA
places canRómake you
feel
ienn
PRO guilty
ska for
S
ń
o
a
g
P
kie
rows
b
a
ą
sk
D
wearing
the wrong
type of sunglasses
szow
P
Hrubie
na
go
ka
Róża
Złota
kie
lańs
doyour
so it’s best to
hottest
hipster
ńs don
O
y
sz
Da
96 olna lna
duds around
these parts.
do
D mie
on
h
tow
Kwia
Rogaliń
cz
KIE
r
late
E. P
M
ow
rod
Og
ierzo
CI
ŁOŚ
DLEG
Sz
ZDOWS
ofa
enh
a
Jasn
Zam
AL. UJA
Lu
d
a
lick
II
a
ieln
Wik
Filtrowa Politics
ia
M
Wałow
ERSA
e
rm
Ka
A
WŁ
PA
NA
JA
a
wsk
ałko
a
ln
Po
o
ieg
llot
Be
owa
Okop
Kacza
Chm
O
Kazim
O
NIEP
to
Kwia
wa
89 THE FIX
Get your caffeine fix (plus a slice of vegan cake)
and get your bike fixed at the super-stylish café
RELAKS. Then go next door and check out
vintage furniture rescued by local designers at
RESET.
Reset — open: Mon-Fri 12-20, Sat 11-19.
Relaks — open: Mon-Fri 8-21, Sat 10-19, Sun
10-18
ul. Puławska 48 (entrance from ul.
Dąbrowskiego)
ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE
POŁUDNIOWE
(CENTRE
SOUTH)
a
LESZN
Szarych Szeregów
Brylowska
88 A LOT OF PLOTS
Warsaw’s filled with DZIAŁKI - small gardening plots for growing flowers, vegetables or just
for people to relax on their own patch of greenery. The plot complex in Mokotów is probably the most central, with cherries and apple
blossoms blooming right near the Racławicka
metro station.
na
ien
WoS
lnoś
ć
Złot
zna
Żela
a
lkow
Karo
a
wskiego
87 GET LOKAL
LOKALNA means ‘local’ and best describes
this neighbourhood café that even serves its
own coffee blend. How local can it get?
Open: Mon-Fri 8:30–22, Sat 10-22, Sun 10-21
ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/5
(entrance from ul. Różana 42)
a
ocz
O
KIEG
iego
k
Gibals
ic
Stasz
Krzyżano
o
kieg
rows
Dąb
a
ieck
ka
iewicka
a
a
c
Mo
Żytnia
WAWELSKA
MALINOWA (‘Raspberry’). Some say this is
Ro in town, with classic vanilla and
the best stuff
ko
so
ws
chocolate upstaged
ka by outlandish flavours like
melon, tomato and meringue (9 zł per scoop).
Wi
Open: Mon-Sun 11-21
nn
ick
a
al. Niepodległości 130
sz
Mar
Sm
YŃS
WAR
ców
Wali
ars
Młyn
erga
Skiern
KA
ad
Ak
a
niczn
ŁA II
PAW
JANA
na
ol
ców
Wali
na
elb
Waw
a
Płock
IŃS
a
owska
Działd
icza
w
uto
91
Nar
Plac
KO
P
ecka
dzia
O
A
KASPRZAK
Dolna
Barska
Odyńc
Ludwiki
Doln
Sękocińska
ŁY
Mie
R
WA
TO
a
za
JER
MA
o
kieg
Da
lek
alińs
Mad
isk
cewic
Bema
ka
ic
ław
Rac
ZY
icza
kiew
Tysz
WA
utta
Narb
Sp
Niem
Joteyki
GR
iała
Wronia
a
Płock
y
Syren
A
Kaliska
purple on the
e ice cream at
y
SK
WOL
wska
ck out CENshop smaller
ff on sale here,
ooks from the
Plac Zawisz
o
Odo
ska
check out the
of Economics
and the ‘50s,
owskie metro
light over the
brary building
90
ka
lańs
E
SKI
LIM
O
OZ
H
r
Wikto
THE PARK
uge open park
port. Popular
rs and cyclists
ersities. Very
On weekdays,
Mon-Fri 8-18,
ed cafeteria at
lioteka Naro-
H
go
ckie
Mire
Kacza
w
Rako
a
jow
Kole
kieg
rows
Dąb
AL.
ÓW
ska
Sokoło
w
a
tow
Kwia
Róża
leżeró
ego
88
Rabsztyń
na
Szwo
M
A
BELWEDERSK
WSKA
NIAKO
a
na
Róża
GÓRCZE
89
wa
jo
Kole
zna
ela
SKIE
A
WSK
PUŁA
Korczaka
CZ E R
iowa
a
wieck
aliń
a
sk
Pań
as
WSKA
o
skieg
Mad
osza
Dług
n
Ro
Szarych Szeregów
utta
ŚCI
87
do
STA
ka
PyRnO
Wierz
go
ie go
saktore
B
ń
zy
Grenady
Żytnia D
Narb
Wiśn
Myśli
GŁO
86
ny
Syre
Przyokopowa
szo
Hrubie
Łazienkowska
sk
zoaw
iersk
Brylow
Kazim
iego
85
wsk
Krzyżano
J
WE
a
roysnkia
W
Par
JAZDOW
Ń
ZY
YS
DZ
MIĘ
ska
wska
M
RZAKAiecka
w
Rako
ga
ie c
a
na
Fabrycz
w
Karolko
Koźmiń
icka
ska
Rogaliń
Ła
tro
Jana Os
ow
Ł
WA
a
ka
wsk
rasz
ałko
Ond
iew
Skiern
a
Płock
śląska
Górno
ska
a
elsk
Pos
AL.aU
i ck
ow
ROWA
Kat
TOWA
I
ka
SK
br
Dą
sz
Mar
C
SOLE
sk
wiki
wa
rga
ko
w
a
ln
Po
elbe
Waw
ia
a
KA corner
his
bisis immensely
n or a particuood is served
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102 CONTEMPORARY ART IN
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Szarych Szeregów
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t
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lovers
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102
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arthouse
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pricey (main courses: 28-68 zł) QCHNIA ARaR
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roż
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u
kola
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Górn
a
over
the
park.
If
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can’t
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bothered
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go
in,
Niem
105 Hoż
cewic
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KIE
S
z
a
at
least
check
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stone
benches
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the
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br
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ki
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dró
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10
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quotes by the American artist Jenny
O
103
Piękna
Its
n
Koszykowa
Jote
Open:
Tue-Thu
&
Sat-Sun
11-19,
Fri
11-21,
yki
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Ch
104
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i
closed on Mon, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on Thu GR It may be the poshest neighbourhood and i
stytu
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o
K
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ka
Plac
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the
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and
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103 THE ROYAL ŁAZIENKI PARK houses make
KO it worth a trek to experiia
Bagatela
iejska
PIŃ
M
Plac Unii Lubelskiej
al. Wyzwolenia
SK
u feel like mingling with enFounded in 18th century as the king’s private ence its authentic
A
Plac
99 CAFÉ SALVATION
bohemian chic.
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11
s, visit the uni café on first Saving young Varsovians from
wic
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boredom
for Placsuburban pleasuredome, the ŁAZIENKI park
Filtrowa
WAWELSKA
N
There
a
iki 1
is Roone
of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions.
zdr
some years now is Saviour’s Square (Plac ZbaAgry
o
106 LOCAL INSTITUTION
kola
aged
A longżu lake, several
palaces, fake ruin of
an
wiciela) — one of the most charming public
Ro
KĘPA CAFÉ is Saska Kępa’s original them
so
amphitheatre, two greenhouses plus a flockkoof
ws
spaces in the city, surrounded with StalinAR
ka
w
Lite
klubokawiarnia, a favourite local hangout with in Sa
peacocks strolling around all add to its charm.
dró
ws white
Szwo
ching up on news from back ist porticos and towered
an over by the
ka
leżeró
Ole
w trade products
fair
Wi and a homely atmosphere.
but w
In
the
summer
you
can
even
take
a ride
on
nn
morning coffee at MITO — church spires. First to animate the square was
ick
a
here.
floren
Zoli
the lake in a gondola. The park is crowded on Get your ‘I love Kępa’ badge
Then
ed with fresh foreign news- the perennially hip COFFEE KARMA.
Open: Mon-Fri 10-22, Sat-Sun 11-20
and-r
weekends,
nice
and
quiet
on
weekdays,
open
– if you find paper too fussy. the punky bar PLAN B arrived, followed by
Open
daily from dawn till dusk. No cycling allowed! ul. Finlandzka 12a
a
w
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which
functions
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Warsaw’s
of
paintings
from
young
arto
z
Les
ul. Za
Bagatela
chicest bakery in the Plac
daytime
and a wine bar in
Unii Lubelskiej
107 F IS FOR FOOD
22, Sat-Sun 9-23
the evening. In spring and summer, the pave104 FREE CHOPIN CONCERT
ment out front of the latter turns into a semi8
The most pleasant way to experience Chopin’s FRANCUSKA, Saska Kępa’s main drag, is
legal late night al fresco hangout. If you feel
music is to attend a (free!) OPEN-AIR PIANO filling with more and more places to satisfy
utta
like going somewhere more quiet, try SPOTCONCERT at the Chopin monument all sum- your hunger no matter your budget. At No. 2
Narb
ST CITY
— there’s EFES, some say, the best kebab joint
KANIE
ZE
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A
meeting
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mer long.
hat Warsaw would look like
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a spy’)
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church.
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every
Sun
at
12
and
16
o
reg enough time
ist regime
had
Bato
well-designed RUCOLA (No. 6) and Saska
go place opens in the vicinity every few months,
ie
k
s
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to
aliń
Kępa’s oldest pizzeria RENESANS (No. 33)
Mad
so
the
summer
of
2012
belongs
to
Plac
ZbaDM housing district, opened
105 BREW BROWSING
that serves take away pizza by the slice and
CHARLOTTE’S fame is being rivalled
cka
ie
a model for future develop- Rakwiciela.
If
you
feel
like
trying
Polish
beer,
head
straight
w
o
legendary French fries. Follow this with coffee
by
MINISTERSTWO
KAWY,
another
stylish
grandiose housing blocks,
to MAŁE PIWO (ul. Oleandrów 4, open: Mon- and cake at F30 (No. 30). Pastries from LUKUspot
tucked
behind
the
church.
or workers’, larger-than-life
Sun 17-24). It is a very small place (as the name LLUS, packed in boxes adorned with Warsawa
utta
óżan
Narb
ry statues of workingR class
suggests), but it stocks probably the biggest se- themed collages are a great gift idea (ul. Wao
g
ie
k
rows 100 HIP STREETS
Seasons of Socialist Poland
lection of local, Polish beers, hard to come by lecznych 29).
Dąb
a
ns in the arcades along the ola
Mokotowska
has grown into
a gofashion street
at an average shop or pub. If you need a snack,
ńska
ńskie
li
a
d
d
Ma
utta
AC KONSTYTUCJI),
andO recently. Most of the places
stock pricy designhead down the street to OKIENKO (ul. Polna
Narb
a
108 FAIRY TALE CHURCH
Doln
gn with a volleyball player er gear from Paris and Antwerp, but
you can
22, open: Mon-Thu 9-22, Fri 9-24, Sat 10-24) –
No matter what your stance on religion and
ul. Koszykowa, restored in also find great pieces from young Polish brands
a small place serving Belgian-style fries.
a
go
óżan
how you behaved yourself in Warsaw last night,
ńskie StaDolnalabel RTURBOKOLOR
much left
like Warsaw street
(at
skatheMlavish
rof
adali
o
Wikto
kieg
stop by at Saska Kępa’s parish church to admire
rows
rs, but you can get a taste VETERAN skate shop, ul. Mokotowska
26) to
Dąb
na
the sixties interior complete with mock-Gothic
Róża
ńska
at the café BATIDA (open: super-sophisticated
and ANIAOKUCZYŃSKA
dola
concrete arches and fairy-tale-like frescoes.
ka
9-20, Sun 9-19,
corner
of
ul.
(ul.
Mokotowska
61).
a
ic
ln
Do
ław
Rac
ul. Nobla 16
o
kieg
H
ji
ytuc
a
c
Pere
Sa
a
sk
a
Łuck
ka
Ślis
Fra
109
na
Sien
a
Złot
a
zna
Żela
na
dzia
ska
107 Obrońców
a
ieln
Chm
R
WA
TO
ka
cka
wie
wic
bro
Korczaka
ws
Krzyżano
o
Kat
Dą
elsk
Pos
Mie
a
a
s
Da
n
Ro
go
ie
sk
ń
zy
ncu
ska
do
108
ska
Pań
rda
STA
szow
iczna
II
ców
Wali
rda
a
Tw
Rondo ONZ
PRO
Walecznych
Hrubie
ka
bows
Grzy
Wronia
i
t
Mos nkowsk
Łazie
Z
WAS
ka
Przyokopowa
a
Karolkow
sk
Rogaliń
iewicka
Skiern
a
Płock
sk
Koźmiń
ka
A
KASPRZAK
101
c us
Fran
a
106
AL.
ski
rzybow
Plac G
w
s
Wa
sk
bow
Grzy
có
Wali
zy
do
n
Ro
A
TON
YNG
Gran
na
nia
Wro
I
to
ng
C
SOLE
y
Syren
br
Do
zka
lna
hma
Kroc
a
odn
Chł
na
a
grod
mio
ŁA
PAW
JANA
laz
a
ysk
Par
KA
ROWA
TOWA
SK
a
a
Płock
ie
ica
Stasz
sk
Ń
ZY
YS
DZ
elberg
Waw
Zw
rowsk
Jakto
ła
Bia
Że
cka
C
cLkEaNIE
ie
ow
i
ZIE
L. w
ls k a
Ao
Kat
br
Dą
a
owska
Działd
ow
zk
us
ci
MIĘ
arska
z
iewic
Ł
WA
Młyn
k
Tysz
a
lkow
Karo
e
Pos
IE
SK
ska
Sokola
Płocka
Ń
CI
cu
go Fran
Aga
wy
ka
tie
llo
Be
a
owa
Okop
E
CZ
SZ
Lu
dn
a
s
Sa
k
cus
kiego
Gibals
Fran
a
sk
E
EŻ
RZ
ś
Ko
yc
Wolska
Sied
pl.
Tw
a
iń
es
o
ieg
YB
y
ska
Lubelska
rz
W
sk
W
n
Syre
osza
Dług
t
ki
os zys
Św
uc
Kr
a
ernik
Kop
iego
lna
Smo
ynka
Wierz
GÓRCZE M tokr
W
ię SKA
.
(1962) in the back Nof
o the pavilion that houses
o
aL
zA
A new Olympic
in the sleek
is a collecnd Centre,
wic
SK
Ro Aniele
the bar & the café. The architect, the late Halina
W
O
J
tion ofKI3000
items of sports memorabilia and
Skibniewska, laid out the buildings in a configa permanent exhibition on Polish
Olympic vicwia
uration
that made it possible to save hundreds
i
Pa
ka
s
tories. If the sight zof
and silver owolipk
ew all these gold
na
N of fruit trees that had grown here before, makiel
ys
z
r
a
D
medals makes you
CI
Sk feel like practising yourself,
ing it like an urban secret garden
OŚ in the city.
RN
try the horse stable AGMAJA next door (open: ka
DA
I
e
ZAMOYSKIEGO
i
L
ul. Krasińskiego
36
s
lip
.SO
Miń
wo
ZAMO
Tue-Sun), which offers
horseback
rides along
AL
YSKIEGO
No
GROCHOWS
KA
the Vistula
(50
min./60
zł).
go
Woln
ckie
82 LOCAL GRUB
ość
Walecznych
Mire
Open:
Tue-Fri 9-17, Sat-Sun
10-17, tickets:
a Sat
ŻYWICIEL is a neighbourhood restaurant that
10/6 zł, free admission
Kaczon
acza
lna
takes pride in serving typicaloraWarsaw
cuisine,
ul. WybrzeżeK Gdyńskie 4
kt
ców
Ele the faint at heart,
Obroń
e.g. tripe (flaki – 16 zł). For
ki
irows
there are salads and other standard
internaŻytnia
pl. M
79 METROPOLISH
tional fare.
Voted the most beautiful of Warsaw’s metro
Open: Mon-Sun 10-23
a
O
ow
stations,
PLAC
WILSONA, at Żoliborz’s
main
LESZN
rod
Og
pl. Inwalidów 10
w
ó
square, is certainly the mostięextravagant,
with
zc
a
FINNISH SYMPATHY
Hidden behind the sleek German and French
a
cz you will find a bit of Scandinavian
na
nia embassies
aję
ew
Cz Z
Dr
countryside
right in the middle of a big Poler
ni ka
akm
ish city.
Ta owIt is an emergency housing estate
sk
built along
a Jazdów street in 1945 for people
SKA
WOLruined city. The prefabricated
S
returning
to the
ol
ec
ost
wooden
houses came from Finland via MSoviet
iego
zk
wsk
iato
ow
onup
P
Union
and
they
were
supposed
to
stay
just
sk
ieg
5 years obut somehow stayed, making up a calm
a
śląskheart
neighbourhoodGin
the
of the city. Only
órno
30 wooden houses
Ludwikisurvived to our times and
a
they will not lastFforever,
a look before
So
abryczn so have
lec
they are gone.
iel
lnik
Okó
k
zyńs
Gałc
a
Johna Lennon
Jazdów
C
sal
Fok
Myśliwie
c
a
ln
hmie
101
Top
a
ernik
Kop
k
Górs
Rabsztyń
wska
Sokoło
nów
ŚWIAT
alna
i
Matejk
iego
a
rat
zb Cicha
Ro
ery
ie
Skarp
al. Na
NOWY
j
a
jsk
ka
c
Ware
że
ze
Sew
IE
nickie
Konop
A
TAMK
ka
nac
Ordy
r
yb
W
rna
wa
Bro
na
Oboź
ka
lec
ka
ęca
Książ
IEŚC
DM
RZE
kiegoWie
Czac
KA
a
Ra
a
Prus Bartoszewicza
ZYS
R
TOK
WIĘ
a
dn
GO
W
A
łty
So
Żytnia
ow
Lip
TA
R
t
Mos kiego
ows
So
Grenady
s
ań
rm
Fu
EP
SKI
KOW
KRA
utta
g
Trau
śl
ow łop
Ka
iat
Pon
Złocienia
a
Marien szt
Wi
ow
ak
er
Si
ka
ńs
nie
Pa
uc
Kr
cked by the construction
site of
ki e
go
metro station, but
you can get
rom Świętokrzyski
Bridge.
t
YOU GAME?
arska
Bedn
shabby
pavilion next to a railway
EC is famous for its modernised
e (served until very late in the
a collection of games; games as
a
not as in
‘Playstation’
. From awellrow
na
Ka
i
rze
Ok
Zawiszy
zk
ow
s
ie
sk
ow
ot
oz
a
Ob
a
br
Do
ha
Cic
iel
Top
penhagen mermaid.ka The statue,
m
1939, was modelled
Ta on the stua Krahelska, who tragically
died
ki
st ows
Mo ąbrthe
n the uprising Sagainst
Nazis,
ol ko-D
ecląs
a new historical dimension
to the
Ś
Lu
d
na
a
kopow
Przyo
leya
C
ska
Rasz
y
ńska
As
nyk
a
GR
ck
a
rze
ska
liw
i
Bia
łob
ha
ka
s
łkow
sza
Mar
a
ln
Po
IEGO
ŃSK
Y
WAR
IE
DOWSK
AL. UJAZ
ka
rasz
A
al. S
zuc
Ond
iecka
Sz
cz
ęś
a
Krzyckiego
wsk
Kaliska
WSKA
NIAKO
CZER
Myśliw
kot
o
Krzywickiego
A
CK
ÓJ
E
kot
o
Mo
a
ska
em
ick
a
hn
ac
k
no
ieg
ws
kie
go
a
wsk
isk
Koźmiń
ka
a
BELWEDERSK
Mo
Tar
c
Sp
a
Jazdów
Johna Lennon
SASKA KĘPA
RASZYŃSKA
zyń
wieck
ka
ha
CHA
Lind
SOLE
at
ie
ejs
Myśli
Skarp
br
z
Ro
al. Na
ickiej
Wi
KIE
ZDOWS
A
BELWEDERSK
A
WSK
PUŁA
iowa
Wiśn
Dolna
Aryska
OWPa
I
SK
YŃ
Z
YS
DZ
MIĘ
Brylowska
WSKA
NIAKO
CZER
kiego
Bema
Konopn
cza
Kru
AL. UJA
ka
Ł
WA
102 CONTEMPORARY ART IN
w
zcó
A BAROQUE CASTLE
Szarych Szeregów
ycię
Zw
’a
KIE
lle
Art
lovers
cannot
afford
to
miss
the
CENTRE
u
IMS
ZOL
Ge
Br
EJKsiążęca
e
ERO
ŁazienkoART
W
J
wsk
a
.
FOR
CONTEMPORARY
(CSW).
The
a
D
O
L
go
a
ck
A
D
o
mowskie
dzk
a
nd
II LU
ogro
a
Ro
reconstructed baroque Ujazdowski Castle
Now
ARM
dzk
jowa
AL.
ogro
Cz
Kole
Plac Trzech Krzyży
Plac Zawi
110
(Zamek Ujazdowski) hostserniadaring shows of
102
szy
wia
ko
Żura
ws a decent perinternational
and Polish artists,
a
ka
ki
Prus
Ocz
manent collection, a bookshop, the KINO.LAB jowa
ólna
Wsp
Kole
arthouse cinema, a cosy café and the artsy yet
Pla
cN
pricey (main courses: 28-68 zł) QCHNIA ARaR
i
t
Mos nkowsk
ozd
Da
TYSTYCZNA restaurant with stunningośląviews
roż
Agry
ska
Łazie
lek
u
kola
a
Górn
over the park. If you can’t be bothered
to go in,
Niem
cewic
Matejki
KIE
S
z
a
at least check
out
the
stone
benches
in
the
LIM
zna alyc
O
br
Fa
Myśliwie
OZ
c main entrance, adorned with
JER
ley leading to the
AL.
Szwo
Sękocińska
le
109 SOCIABLE CAFE
Piękna
ż
erów Holzer.
quotes by the American artist Jenny
103
Its
name, TOWARZYSKA, means ‘sociable’
Jote
Open:
Tue-Thu
&
Sat-Sun
11-19,
Fri
11-21,
yki
ina
op
Ch
104
The easternmost outpost of
tucji
closed on Mon, tickets: 12/6 zł, free on Thu GR It may be the poshest neighbourhood and indeed it is.
Filtrowa
nsty
Filtrowa
ZY
Barska
J
hipster café culture in Warsaw.
side
of
the
river
but
great
new
ul.
Jazdów
2
ŁazienkowskaMthis
AŁ
WE
O
Y
Ko
LUD
sz
MII
Open:
Mon-Sun
9-till
late
R
yk
a
z
d
A
ich
a
ow
cafés, a beautiful park
wic and modernist
AL.
Ak
uto
a
c
Nar
ul. Zwycięzców 49
Mo
Plac
ka
and ul. Koszykowa).
103 THE ROYAL ŁAZIENKI PARK houses make
Reja
KO it worth a trek to experiia
agatela
PIŃ
M
al. Wyzwolenia
SK
Founded
in
18th
century
as
the
king’s
private
WAWELSKA
A
Plac
É SALVATION
ence its authentic bohemian chic.
Zba
110 CAKE MAKERS
wic
iela
g Varsovians from boredom
for Placsuburban pleasuredome, the ŁAZIENKI park
WAWELSKA
Na
There are very few things in this city that manis
of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions.
Roone
zdr
ow is Saviour’s Square (Plac ZbaAgry
ożu
106
LOCAL INSTITUTION
kola
aged to survive seven decades. IRENA is one of
A long
lake,
several
palaces,
fake
ruin
of
an
ne of the most charming public
Ro
KĘPA CAFÉ is Saska Kępa’s original them: a cake business that has been operating
so
amphitheatre, two greenhouses plus a flockkoof
ws
e city, surrounded with Stalinka
owa
w
Lite
klubokawiarnia, a favourite local hangout with in Saska Kępa since 1937, changing locations
peacocks strolling around all add to its charm.
Lesz
dró
ws white
Szwo
and towered
an over by the
ka
leżeró
Ole
w trade products
fair
Wi and a homely atmosphere.
but
within
the
same
neighbourhood.
Their
In
the
summer
you
can
even
take
a ride
on
nn
. First to animate the square was
ick
a
here.
florentynki — tiny caramel-chocolate-almondZoli
the lake in a gondola. The park is crowded on Get your ‘I love Kępa’ badge
lly hip COFFEE KARMA.
Then
and-raisin cookies — are legendary.
weekends, nice and quiet on weekdays, open Open: Mon-Fri 10-22, Sat-Sun 11-20
ar PLAN B arrived, followed by
Open: Mon-Fri 9-19, Sat-Sun 9-18
daily from dawn till dusk. No cycling allowed! ul. Finlandzka 12a
E, which functions as Warsaw’s
ul. Zakopiańska 20
Bagatela
y in the Plac
daytime
and a wine bar in
Unii Lubelskiej
107 F IS FOR FOOD
In spring and summer, the pave104 FREE CHOPIN CONCERT
nt of the latter turns into a semiThe most pleasant way to experience Chopin’s FRANCUSKA, Saska Kępa’s main drag, is
Bat
ht al fresco hangout. If you feel
music is to attend a (free!) OPEN-AIR PIANO filling with more and more places to satisfy
mewhere more quiet, try SPOTCONCERT at the Chopin monument all sum- your hunger no matter your budget. At No. 2
— there’s EFES, some say, the best kebab joint
SZPIEGIEM (‘A meeting with
mer long.
in town. Pizza lovers can choose between the
ny bar behind the church. A new
May-August, every Sun at 12 and 16
well-designed RUCOLA (No. 6) and Saska
n the vicinity every few months,
Kępa’s oldest pizzeria RENESANS (No. 33)
er of 2012 belongs to Plac Zba105 BREW BROWSING
that serves take away pizza by the slice and
RLOTTE’S fame is being rivalled
If you feel like trying Polish beer, head straight legendary French fries. Follow this with coffee
RSTWO KAWY, another stylish
to MAŁE PIWO (ul. Oleandrów 4, open: Mon- and cake at F30 (No. 30). Pastries from LUKUehind the church.
Sun 17-24). It is a very small place (as the name LLUS, packed in boxes adorned with Warsawutta
Narb
suggests), but it stocks probably the biggest se- themed collages are a great gift idea (ul. WaP STREETS
lection of local, Polish beers, hard to come by lecznych 29).
has grown into
a gofashion street
at an average shop or pub. If you need a snack,
ńskie
li
a
d
Ma
t of the places
stock pricy designhead down the street to OKIENKO (ul. Polna
a
108 FAIRY TALE CHURCH
Doln
Paris and Antwerp, but
you can
22, open: Mon-Thu 9-22, Fri 9-24, Sat 10-24) –
No matter what your stance on religion and
t pieces from young Polish brands
a small place serving Belgian-style fries.
a
óżan
how you behaved yourself in Warsaw last night,
Dolnalabel RTURBOKOLOR
street
(at
o
kieg
stop by at Saska Kępa’s parish church to admire
rows
kate shop, ul. Mokotowska
26) to
Dąb
the sixties interior complete with mock-Gothic
ńska
icated and ANIAOKUCZYŃSKA
dola
concrete arches and fairy-tale-like frescoes.
ska 61).
a
ln
Do
ul. Nobla 16
ok
Wid