CENSUS REPORT ACCESSORIES 2012 The U.S. Accessories

ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
ACCESSORIES
CENSUS
The U.S. Accessories Market
2012: $34.5 Billion In The Bag.
2012
In a more competitive retail reality that faces
the accessories industry, the latest industry statistics
give insight and provide opportunity
The Census Issue data is just the beginning.
The NPD Group’s market information services for the accessories industry help you monitor a multitude of accessories
categories across all retail channels.
It’s the industry data and expertise you need to address your most pressing business questions.
2013 Projected Market Share by Classification*
Use it to identify opportunities for expansion, enhance marketing strategies, improve product distribution, fine-tune
product development, benchmark results, and more.
Slippers/Casual Footwear 2.60%
Learn more.
Belts 1.06%
For more information, contact Charles Camaroto at 866-444-1411
Umbrellas 0.79%
Jewelry 34.88%
or email [email protected].
Handbags 30.12%
Sunglasses 5.39%
Scarves 1.45%
Small Leathergoods 6.18%
Hosiery 9.20%
Hats 1.04%
Watches 6.66%
Gloves 1.41%
* Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
I
n a year where consumers were bombarded
with pros and cons on the national elections, the
debt ceiling and the so-called fiscal cliff, not to
mention a slow job recovery and an economy that
seemed to inch along, American consumers showed
surprising resilience last year.
Whatever their views were on the nation’s
economic woes, American consumers still went
shopping, still crowded into stores on Black
Friday, and still bought even more from the
convenience of their personal computers, tablets
or even mobile phones.
Although retail sales improved—even if not as
robust as some had forecast—there’s still a long
way to go in many categories. But, fortunately
consumers continued to shop for accessories,
lured by their versatility, relatively low investment
and fashion savoir-faire.
One of the major motivating factors in the
continued strength of accessories sales is the role
24 ACCESSORIES
of the “need cycle.” Women have reduced or held
off on their fashion purchases for economic
reasons, but now they need to replenish their
wardrobes as a matter of necessity.
“Even though the economy is still sluggish and
paychecks are less in the New Year with the 2%
increase in Social Security taxes, women will still
opt to update their wardrobes,” says Marshal Cohen,
chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, Inc. “After
all, you can go just so long with wearing the same
outfits and expecting them to look right and even
more important fit right. The need cycle takes
precedence when updating your wardrobe is ignored
for too long.”
That means retailers and manufacturers need
more than ever to stay abreast of the nuances and
consumer buying patterns in an increasingly
competitive retail environment.
Hence, Accessories Magazine once again
provides the annual Accessories Census Report,
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
the only comprehensive guide to the state of the
accessories industry.
As has been the case in previous years,
Accessories has partnered with The NPD Group,
Inc., a global information company that is a leader
in retail tracking services and consumer panels in
a wide range of industries.
This report fuses Accessories’ proprietary
industry research with NPD’s latest statistics. The
result is a look at what happened in 2012
encompassing more than 90% of all accessories
sold in the United States.
“We are delighted to continue to partner with
Accessories Magazine on their Census Report,”
says Diane Nicholson, president, beauty, fashion,
and sports, The NPD Group, Inc. “NPD has the
unique ability to deliver the industry with the most
detailed and accurate insights. Exiting calendar year
2012, the industry enjoyed a healthy growth with many
of the smaller segments hitting it big.”
npd.com
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE/THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
KEY RETAIL TRENDS
• Being on the leading edge of women’s return to
fashion shopping, accessories boasted a 5% increase
in 2012. That was on top of a 4% increase in 2011.
• Improvements in average unit prices in some leading
categories helped push the total average unit
pricepoint to $16. But the accessories industry
posted a small decline in total unit sales, hit
primarily by declines in cold weathergoods units.
• Fashion, costume and bridge jewelry, which
represents more than a third of all women’s
accessories sales, continued to flourish with a 3%
increase in dollar sales and a 4% increase in units.
• Handbags, which had a 6% increase in dollar sales,
rebounded particularly strong with certain age
groups (such as 34 and under) and in smaller
silhouettes.
as gloves/mittens and mufflers. However, a wetter
year in some regions, helped lift umbrellas dollar
sales by 14%.
TOTAL WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES
U.S. Retail Sales Estimates
$ Billions
Projected 2013
$32.50
2012
$30.5
*Projections provided by Accessories magazine
dollar sales rose 15% while unit sales were up 11%.
• After suffering several years of sales declines,
fashion/sports watches made a strong rebound,
growing 18%—the largest increase that any
accessories category posted in 2012.
• Accessories sales in 2012 were in line—actually
slightly better—than other fashion categories.
According to The NPD Group, Inc., sales of
women’s apparel rose 4.2% last year (for the 12
months ending November 2012 vs. 12 months
ending November 2011). Meanwhile total U.S.
footwear sales were up 3% with women’s footwear
sales leading the way with a 4% increase.
• Though small in size, small leathergoods gave an
outsized 2012 performance:
• 2012 was one of the hottest years on record, which
didn’t help sales of cold weather merchandise, such
• In most categories, price isn’t the primary deciding
factor in an accessory sale. In fact, most accessories
sales last year were made at regular price.
• Sales by retail channel were similar to previous
years, with the exception of department stores, chain
stores and specialty stores which showed slight
increase in most accessories categories. Mass
merchants, on the other hand, posted slight declines
for the most part. The channel that had growth in all
categories? Online, including internet pureplays.
About the 2012 Annual Census Report:
Accessories Magazine and The NPD Group, Inc.
have collaborated on all the accessories categories
listed in the total chart. In addition to the consumer
information collected by NPD, this census contains
Accessories Magazine’s proprietary research of
industry statistics and trends incorporating classifications not surveyed by NPD, such as hairgoods
and casual footwear.
The Port Washington, NY-based NPD Group is
the leading provider of consumer and retail information for a wide range of industries. For more information, go to www.npd.com.
TOTAL WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES
U. S. Retail Sales Estimates by Category
TOTAL WOMEN'S ACCESSORIES
Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry*1
Fashion/Sport Watches*2
Handbags*3
Small Leathergoods*
Belts*
Gloves/Mittens*
Hats/Caps**
Sunglasses*
Umbrellas*
Slippers/Casual Footwear***
Hosiery**4
Scarves/Mufflers**
2012
Dollars
(billions)
$30.5
$10.7
$1.9
$9.0
$1.8
$0.4
$0.4
$0.4
$1.5
$0.3
$0.8
$2.9
$0.4
Dollar
% Chg
12 vs 11
5%
3%
18%
6%
15%
2%
-8%
1%
-11%
14%
-2%
4%
4%
2012
Units
(Millions)
2,600
821
56
197
110
30
48
26.6
84
26
52
1,100
33.5
Unit
% Chg
12 vs 11
-2%
4%
8%
2%
11%
-5%
-1%
-3%
-2%
1%
-6%
1%
-14%
*Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 12 excludes Fine Jewelry, Fine Watches, Luggage
***Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Footwear / 12 ME Dec 12
1
Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry = all women's jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold, or platinum
2
Fashion/Sport Watches = all women's watches under $350
3
Handbags defined as all Women's Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffel Bags, Messenger Bags, Backpacks, Sport Equipment Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags
**Statistics by Accessories Magazine
26 ACCESSORIES
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Average
Unit
Retail
$16
$13
$34
$46
$16
$12
$8
$11
$18
$10
$15
$3
$11
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
HANDBAGS
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Handbags have staged a comeback
with renewed consumer interest in
this classification.
• “Women returned to buy handbags in
2012, especially smaller silhouettes,
because they were an affordable
luxury they could justify spending on
as an investment,” says Marshal
Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD.
• Handbags continued their ascent
toward pre-Great Recession levels:
total dollar sales increased 6% while
unit sales rose 2%.
• The average unit retail was $46.
• Handbag sales to under-34 women
increased last year, while sales to older
age groups were flat or down.
WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Billions
Projected 2013
$9.5
2012*
$9.0
2011*
$8.5
*The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for
Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11
1
Handbags defined as all Women’s Bags, including Handbags,
Totes, Duffel Bags, Messenger Bags, Sport Equipment Bags,
Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and
Diaper Bags
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
• Although 54% of handbag purchases
were made on sale last year, 61% of
handbag sales were planned, not by
impulse.
• The vast majority of handbags, 75%
in fact, were self purchases.
• While most handbags continue to be
purchased in a store, online sales
continue to edge up, now accounting
for about 18% of sales.
• When asked what primary uses their
handbag purchases were for, 59%
said “for anytime.”
• Many reasons go into each handbag
purchase. Last year, women cited
these chief reasons in order:
styling/features, price, and brand.
• Only 19% of handbag sales last year
were purchased as gifts.
• There was a definite return to more
simplified styles, with shape and
structure telling the story rather than
lots of logos, hardware or bling.
Smooth leather added to this sleek
appeal in many cases.
• Interesting textures like wovens or
perforations were another way to add
subtle interest on structured shapes.
• Totes were very strong—easy to
understand, practical and versatile for
both the workplace and after. Their
ability to hold a laptop or tablet
computer was also instrumental to
their success.
• Top-handle bags (single or doublehandles) captured the ladylike trend.
• Underscoring the consumers’
attraction to the classic satchel, The
Cambridge Satchel company
(launched in 2008 with just $1,000
seed money) is now an $8 million
brand. The shape was modeled after
the basic British schoolboy’s satchel.
• Color-blocking—with its retro feel—
was a key trend in 2012, be it in
WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1
Wearer Age Groups
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
100%
6%
10%
17%
37%
16%
14%
Total 13 Yrs +
13-17
18-24
25-34
35-54
55-64
65+
% of 2012
Unit
Sales
100%
9%
12%
15%
34%
16%
14%
Average
Unit
Retail
$56
$41
$48
$61
$61
$59
$55
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 12
*Handbags defined as satchels, shoulder bags, clutches, cross-body bags, minibags
WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1
Style of Accessories
Total
Basic
Classic/Conservative
Sporty/Active
Trendy/Fashion-Forward
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
100%
25%
20%
9%
46%
% of 2011
Dollar
Sales
100%
23%
20%
8%
49%
Remaining percentage not specified
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12
1Handbags defined as all Women's Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffle Bags, Messenger Bags, Backpacks, Sport Equipment
Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags
28 ACCESSORIES
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ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
HANDBAGS
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
(CONT’D)
color-blocked leather, color-blocked
skins, or color-blocked mixed media.
• Small, boxy shapes with long
straps—often chains—were a key
item, selling at a lower retail than
larger bags and offering lots of
fashion punch.
• Small and medium silhouette
handbags—including satchels,
shoulder bags, clutches, cross-body
and minibags under 12-inches wide—
accounted for more than half the half
of the dollar volume share last year,
according to NPD.
• Cross-bodies were very strong for
their ease, comfort and newness.
Some bags offered adjustable straps
that could covert the cross body into
a shoulder bag.
• Clutches fared fairly well but not as
well as cross-bodies and totes. In
scale, clutches got larger and became
more of a day-to-evening item. The
oversized envelope clutch was key.
• Detachable straps (mainly chains) on
clutches were popular and easily
2012 Dollar
Share
2011 Dollar*
Share*
100%
100%
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
Department Stores
19%
18%
1.0
National Chains
10%
9%
1.0
Mass Merchants
9%
10%
-1.0
Specialty Stores
32%
30%
2.0
Internet Pureplays^
6%
5%
1.0
Catalog/Direct Mail
2%
2%
0.0
Home Shopping
3%
3%
0.0
Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs
8%
9%
-0.1
Other
12%
15%
-3.0
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
* 2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc. /Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11
1
Handbags defined as all Women's Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffel Bags, Messenger Bags, Backpacks, Sport Equipment Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags
^Internet Pureplays are retailers that offer internet as its primary “storefront.” This channel includes retailers like Amazon.com, eBags, Overstock, Zappos, Piperlime, etc.
Other includes Food and Drug Stores, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas, etc.
30 ACCESSORIES
• Women wanted to hold onto their
clutches without worrying about
them, so slip-through bands or
wristlet straps proved important.
• Aspirational brands in recognizable
names like Michael Kors and Kate
Spade did very well, often in shop-inshop boutiques within departments.
• “Faux leather” styles are getting more
toned down and classic, really going
after a woman who might not realize
that genuine leather bags have come
down in price.
• Wovens came on strong, especially
moving into Spring 2013. From
naturals to brights, from solids to zigzigs or other patterns, wovens added
textural interest.
• Quilting was key, and not just in
Chanel-inspired diamond shapes
(shown at left). Quilts were shown in
floral shapes, swirls, zig-zags and
linear motifs, as well.
• Minaudieres were a strong silhouette
but they had to be large enough to
hold a consumer’s cell phone.
Interesting elements—from studs to
lace to finger “rings”—helped them
attract a younger customer.
• Special occasion bags didn’t exhibit
the kind of growth that small
leathergoods showed last year.
WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
removed and slipped into the bag.
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• Printed python snake (or actual
python at the higher end) was a key
motif, done in neutrals or colors.
• For 2013, the Mod black-and-white
trend in optical checks, stripes and
color-blocks is key.
• The Celine “Trapeze” or trapezoid
shape was widely emulated.
• Jil Sander’s Fall 2012 show put icy
pales in the spotlight, driving the
trend into Spring 2013.
• Neon pops, namely paired with nude
bodies, look fresh for Spring 2013.
• Brands, such as Coach, collaborated
with celebrities and bloggers for
limited-edition capsule collaborations.
a division of Pan Oceanic Group | 15 W 37th St, 6th Floor | New York, NY 10018
Contact: Jerry Perry | 212-354-7744 ext 2458
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
SMALL LEATHERGOODS
leathergoods by preventing cyber theft
finally caught on. Look for even more
fashion-forward styles to boast RFID
properties going forward.
WOMEN’S SMALL
LEATHERGOODS
Retail Sales Estimate
$ Billions
Projected 2013
$1.95
2012*
$1.8
2011*
$1.5
• While smartphones of all brands and
sizes continue to increase in
popularity, when it came to selecting
snap-on covers to stock, many
retailers stuck to iPhone cases for
simplicity.
*The NPD Group, Inc. /Consumer Tracking Service for
Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12 ME Dec 11
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
• Beyond snap-on covers, retailers tried
to accommodate new versions of
smartphones, e-readers and tablets,
with one-size-fits-all designs when
possible. Quilted designs added
interest, as did embossed leather and
colored skins.
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Small leathergoods, one of the best
performing categories even during the
recent recession, continues to make a
strong showing. Dollar sales rose 15%
and unit sales were up 11%.
• “Small leathergoods has a momentum
thanks to technology. Consumers are
attracted to small leathergoods that are
colorful and can compartmentalize
their mobile phone, keys etc. They
offer fashion as well as function,” says
NPD’s chief industry analyst, Marshal
Cohen.
purchases: 11% said the leathergoods
“caught my eye while shopping;” but
23% are lured by price, 21% by the
styling or features, 14% by brand
name and 14% by price.
• The average unit sale was $16.
• One of the fastest-growing
classifications is mobile phone cases,
where sales grew more than 67% in
one year.
• There is deliberateness to small
leathergoods purchases: 64% were
planned and 61% of them were
purchased at regular price.
• Cases that held phones and credit
cards did very well. These bestsellers
were either on a wristlet or longer
strap for versatility.
• Women understand small
leathergoods now and they make a
good gift and self-purchase item.
While most small leathergoods
bought last year were as self
purchases, about 18% were bought
as gifts.
• The majority of small leathergoods
sales continue to be made in-store;
however, last year approximately 18%
were purchased online.
• When asked for the style of their
small leathergoods purchases,
consumers were nearly evenly split
between “trendy, fashion-forward”
(40%) and “basic” (41%).
• Consumers cited many reasons for
making their small leathergoods
32 ACCESSORIES
• The security advantages that RFID
blocking materials give small
• Manufacturers got creative in this
category too, adding “low-tech” items
like paper journals or datebooks that
often coordinated with tech cases.
• Wallets had a strong year, particularly
in designer brands such as Michael
Kors or Kate Spade that served as a
gateway into a designer brand for
consumers not willing to spend on the
handbags.
• Plaque logos added an upscale look
and brand identity.
• Colorful wallets were a way for
consumers to experiment with color
without a major handbag
commitment. Plus, they make it easy
for consumers to find the wallet in
their handbag.
• Wristlets also were an excellent
business, especially zip-around
wristlets for security and ease.
• Retailers are still experimenting to
find the right balance between
traditional small leathergoods and
new tech cases.
WOMEN’S SMALL LEATHERGOODS1
Style of Accessories
Total
Basic
Classic/Conservative
Sporty/Active
Trendy/Fashion-Forward
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
100%
41%
13%
6%
40%
% of 2011
Dollar
Sales
100%
40%
14%
6%
40%
Remaining percentage not specified
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12
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WOMEN’S SMALL LEATHERGOODS
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
Department Stores
National Chains
Mass Merchants
Specialty Stores
Internet Pureplays^
Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs
Food/Drug Stores
Other
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
* 2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group,Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 11
Other includes Catalog/Direct Mail, TV/Home Shopping, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas etc.
^A Pure Play is solely an Internet retailer with no physical store
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2012 Dollar
Share
100%
11%
6%
16%
30%
6%
5%
2%
24%
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
10%
6%
17%
29%
5%
6%
2%
23%
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
1.0
0.0
-1.0
1.0
1.0
-1.0
0.0
1.0
GLOBAL LEATHERS
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ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY
• While there are plenty of good deals
to be had in costume jewelry last year,
more than half the sales, 55%, were
purchased at regular price again last
year.
• The average unit retail remained at
$13 though consumers still showed a
willingness to trade up.
• Nearly 20% of jewelry sales were
made online, 4% more than in 2011.
Besides not having to worry about fit,
inexpensive jewelry such as a pair of
earrings could always be purchased as
an add-on to get the consumer to the
“Free Shipping” threshold.
• While about a third of jewelry
purchases were as gifts, 62% were
bought for the consumer herself.
• Although consumers admitted to
buying jewelry for occasions such as
WOMEN’S FASHION/COSTUME
AND BRIDGE JEWELRY1
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Billions
Projected 2013
$11
2012*
$10.7
2011*
$10.4
*The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for
Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11
1
Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry = all women’s jewelry
under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold or
platinum
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• 2012 was another good year for
fashion and bridge jewelry as
consumers bought more jewelry at
regular price, planned those sales and
bought them because they were
fashionable.
• “Fashion jewelry is still recovering,”
notes Marshal Cohen of NPD.
“Women are willing to invest in
jewelry because it’s an affordable
luxury, but sales still haven’t returned
to pre-recession levels.”
• For the second year in a row, jewelry
sales were up 3% while unit sales
rose 4%.
34 ACCESSORIES
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an evening out or dress-up during the
day, the vast majority, 53%, bought
jewelry suitable to wear “anytime.”
• About 50% of jewelry sales were for
what consumers described as
“trendy” or “fashion oriented,” the
biggest portion of any accessories
category.
• Key reasons consumers cite for
buying the jewelry they did? 29%
said the styling/features of the jewelry
and another 17% said the jewelry
“caught my eye while shopping.” In
third place was pricepoint.
• Jewelry is often a favorite or even at
the top of gift lists, but the largest
percentage of jewelry, 43%, is bought
for “no special occasion.”
• The popularity of certain jewelry
classifications tended to vary
regionally.
• The trend in fashion jewelry is almost
that there is no trend. More important
trends than ever hit at the same time,
or turn so fast that retailers can barely
keep up.
• The improved quality of inexpensive,
fast-fashion jewelry (from chain
stores such as Forever 21 or H&M)
continued to put pressure on better
specialty chain stores as well as
department stores.
WOMEN’S FASHION/COSTUME AND BRIDGE JEWELRY
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
2012 Dollar
Share
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
100%
Department Stores
8%
8%
0.0
National Chains
12%
11%
1.0
-1.0
Total
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
Mass Merchants
9%
10%
Specialty Stores
29%
27%
2.0
Internet Pureplays^
8%
5%
3.0
Catalog/Direct Mail
2%
3%
-1.0
Home Shopping
7%
7%
0.0
Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs
2%
3%
-1.0
Other
23%
27%
-4.0
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
*The NPD Group, Inc/Consumers Tracking Service for Accessories/12 ME Dec 11
1
Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry = all women's jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold or platinum
^Internet Pureplays are retailers that offer internet as its primary ‘‘storefront.’’ This channel includes retailers like Amazon.com, eBags, Overstock, Zappos, Piperlime, etc.
Other includes Food and Drug Stores, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas, etc.
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ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY
WOMEN’S FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY1
Occasion
Total
Anniversary/Birthday
As a Special Treat
Holiday
Wedding/Engagement
No Special Occasion
Other Occasion
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
100%
13%
15%
20%
3%
43%
6%
% of 2011
Unit
Sales
100%
13%
16%
18%
2%
43%
8%
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12
*Fashion/Bridge Jewelry=all women's jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold, or platinum
• Overall, earrings slowed down but
will pick up in 2013 if the Red Carpet
is any indication. At the Golden
Globes and Academy Awards, long
earrings, whether slim and linear or
larger in design, were everywhere,
often replacing necklaces completely.
• Stud post earrings were up as they
were a newer trend. Ear “cuffs” that
gripped or “climbed” the ear are a
growing niche look.
• Trendy, all-fashion jewelry websites
like BaubleBar.com (now in its
second year with estimated revenues
of $11 million) have given major
brick-and-mortar stores a run for their
money. Last fall, the company opened
a retail boutique called The Bar with
plans to open more.
• Department stores responded with
stepped up branded jewelry, bringing
in newer brands and licenses like T
Tahari, Vince Camuto, Fossil or
House of Harlow 1960.
36 ACCESSORIES
• As a category, bracelets continued
their reign as an item in many
markets. This included everything
from beaded stretch bracelets to
stacked metal bangles to braided
friendship bracelets that evolved to
have more metal and stone. Spikes
and skulls are “new” again.
• While niche, the “body jewelry” trend
continued, including hand chains that
link rings to bracelets; and unique
over-the-chest chains.
• Cocktail rings slowed down, but
stackables that emulated fine jewelry
did best. Niche rings included over
the knuckles and tiny sizes worn at
the fingertips to complement nail art.
• Some manufacturers added heavier
platings of sterling silver over brass,
with retailers giving them placement
in bridge departments to much
success.
• Color was a key trend in 2012 and
will continue more so into 2013, from
mint greens and corals to stark black
and white.
• In bridge alternatives, the most
successful retailers kept average unit
retails up but offered more for the
money than what was found in a solid
.925 item. Retailers that lightened the
weight in alternatives (to emulate
flimsier solid silver at extremely low
pricing) were unhappy with results.
• Pantone named Emerald Green
(Pantone 17-5641) its 2013 Color of
the Year, so expect lots of greens like
malachite or emerald crystal.
• In the earring classification, hoops
remain the leader; however, drop
earrings came on strong in 2012, a
trend that continues into 2013.
• Color has also come into play on
colored chain and painted metals.
• Gold as a color is trending hugely
and two-tone has been outstanding.
Retailers are looking to do more in
solid rose gold and other color plates.
• Despite grumblings about the demise
of the statement necklace, the end is
far from here.
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
(CONT’D)
replace .925 sterling silver, where
prices are still high (sterling silver hit
price heights—reaching $37/ounce
in March 2012; at press time, it was
just over $31/ounce).
• Floral motifs were and will remain
key, from vintage-styled metal flowers
to colorful enamels.
• Spirituality-related motifs (evil eye,
Hamsa hand, infinity shape) sold very
well, often stacked together.
• Gold as a fashion jewelry plating
color was a higher percentage of
business in 2012 than the year prior.
Expect a significant rise in 2013.
• Gold/black combinations were a
particularly strong trend.
• In 2012, bridge jewelry was the year
of alternatives, with expansions of
metals that consumers could buy to
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
• In bridge, straight non-traditional
plated product can often look like
costume and the consumer does not
understand the difference in value.
• Retailers haven’t yet maximized
two-tone metal combinations.
• Gold vermeil (gold over .925 sterling
silver) continued strong.
• Bridge chain business was strong.
• There were some excellent boxed
programs as, once again, the retailer
used the alternative metals that show
excellent perceived value.
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
FASHION/SPORT WATCHES
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
sales rose nearly 11% while the $300
to $500 range, sales were up 6%.
• Although watches were purchased as
graduation, Christmas or Hanukkah
gifts, most, 42%, were bought for
“no special occasion.”
• Although consumers have their
smartphones, tablets etc., to give them
the exact time, fashion and sport
watches maintained their status as
fashion accessories. In fact, women’s
watches had a rebound in 2012 with
dollars sales rising 18% while units
were up 8%.
• With fewer markdowns (watch trends
have longer arcs than other
accessories), strong margins and a
high price/value equation, watches
remain attractive to retailers.
• “Bold-faced, bright watches provided
a strong fashion statement but at
reasonable prices,” says Marshal
Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD.
“They were attractive to both the
younger generation and middle-aged
consumers.”
• There’s a connection with fashion
jewelry where bracelets remain so
popular: this attention to the wrist has
helped drive watches with a strong
fashion component.
• While metal bracelets dominated
watches for a while (namely the
highly popular Michael Kors
“boyfriend watch”), leather straps
came back very strong for in the
second half of 2012.
• The average unit sale for a watch was
$34 last year.
• News of watches’ demise is greatly
exaggerated. Swatch Group, the
world’s biggest watchmaker, reported
a 26% increase in its 2012 profit.
And the U.S. Commerce Department
estimated fine watch sales were up
5.8% in 2012 to an estimated
$9.4 billion.
• Not only were 65% of the fashion and
sport watch sales planned, 58% of
sales were as self purchases, too.
• Watches continue to be the most
popular accessories category to be
purchased online; nearly a quarter of
them, 24%, were bought online.
• While most consumers, 61%, bought
watches suitable for anytime of the
day, about 12% said they purchased
them for work.
• There was a range of designs popular
in watches last year: about 44% were
identified as “trendy” or “fashion
forward” while another 45%
described their watch purchases as
“basic” or “classic conservative.”
• The three most important reasons
cited for buying watches were: 1.
Styling/Features, 2. Price, 3. Brand.
• Higher-priced watches picked up in
sales, too. In the $150 to $300 range,
38 ACCESSORIES
will gain strength in Fall/Holiday
2013, possibly spurred on by the
1920s-styles to be seen in the new
high-style “Great Gatsby” movie,
opening this summer.
• Larger sizes remained key, despite
talks about a major shift to
downsizing. A smaller boyfriend
watch, however, did pick up speed
while still maintaining its borrowedfrom-the-boys look.
• Smaller, ladylike bracelet watches
WOMEN’S FASHION/SPORT WATCHES1
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Billions
Projected 2013
$2.1
2012*
$1.9
2011*
$1.6
*The NPD Group/ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories/
12ME Dec 12 and 12 ME Dec 11
1
Fashion/Sport Watches = all women’s watches under $350
Projections provided by Accessories magazine.
• A new retail trend is the increase
in open-sell formats for more higherpriced merchandise.
• Leather is also the way to capture the
color trend, absolutely essential for
2013. White has become a 12-month
color, as winter white gained
popularity.
• Rose gold PVD looks remained
strong and still looked fresh.
• Tortoise remained a popular material.
• Black and gold was a powerful
fashion combination.
• Printed snake straps in various colors
did well, with high perceived value.
• While no longer “new,” ceramic
remained popular. Best colors remain
white and black, although blush
gained strength.
• Bright colors were shown for Spring
2013 and will continue into the Fall.
They look great in the showcase and
drive sales as well.
WOMEN’S FASHION/SPORTWATCHES1
Style of Accessories
Total
Basic
Classic/Conservative
Sporty/Active
Trendy/Fashion-Forward
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
100%
18%
27%
12%
44%
% of 2011
Dollar
Sales
100%
18%
25%
10%
47%
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12
*Fashion/Sport Watches = all women's watches under $350
WOMEN’S FASHION/SPORT WATCHES1
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
Department/National Chain Stores
Mass Merchants
Specialty Stores
^Other
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
*The NPD Group/Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories/12 ME Dec 11
^Other includes Off-Price, Factory Outlets, Internet Pureplays
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
2012 Dollar
Share
100%
27%
15%
21%
*37%
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
26%
15%
20%
39%
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New York, NY 10001
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Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
1.0
0.0
1.0
-2.0
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
HOSIERY/LEGWEAR
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Buoyed by the demand for
replenishment, hosiery benefited
from its fashion prowess at a price.
Dollar sales were up. Average unit
retail remained at about $3.
specifically for hosiery; 31% said
their hosiery purchases were
unplanned while 27% were planned
but hosiery wasn’t their primary
shopping reason.
• In 2012, 42% said they made their
hosiery purchases while shopping
• Hosiery was all about bright, bold
color on the legs—everything from
socks to tights to leggings. Colored
tights performed best in heavily
textured, heavy weights.
• Most hosiery purchases were self
purchases, though 22% were bought
for someone else.
• Tights had a very good year, as
consumers wore them under dresses
as well as shorts. Interest came from
patterns, openwork and cut-outs such
as diamonds, circles, stripes, etc.
• Hosiery continues to be sold mostly
• Sales by wearer’s ages tend to be
fairly equal for those ages 54 and
younger. Those ages 55 and above
account for the largest segment of
sales at 26%.
• Most hosiery is bought at regular
price while 40% was purchased on
sale last year.
in-store locations; only 7% was
purchased online last year.
WOMEN’S HOSIERY1
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Billions
Projected 2013
$2.9
2012
$2.8
2011*
$2.7
• Younger consumers love legwear—
tights, leggings or jeggings.
• Sheers are making a comeback, with
more ladylike dressing paramount.
• The 50 Shades of Grey trilogy
*2012 Figures and Projections provided by Accessories
Magazine
*2011 Figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking
Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11
sparked new interest in sexy boudoir
dressing (HYP launched a Fifty
Shades hosiery line including garter
sets, printed tights and more). Men
also buy these as sexy gift items.
WOMEN'S HOSIERY
Age Wearer
% of
Dollar
Sales
100%
12%
13%
16%
16%
17%
26%
Total 13 Yrs+
13-17
18-24
25-34
35-44
45-54
55+
% of
Unit
Sales
100%
13%
14%
17%
16%
17%
24%
Average
Unit
Retail
$3
• Lace had a good year, driven by a
retro vibe, from lace knee-high
trouser socks to lacy tights.
$3
$3
$3
$3
$3
$3
• In socks, multipacks expanded into
new silhouettes with novelty
categories returning.
• The hot boot trend drove boot sock
and tight sales. Wool boot sock styles
sold the best in many cases.
Source: The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / Jan-Nov 11/12
Other includes Food and Drug Store, Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc.
• Slipper socks and longer silhouettes
were surprisingly successful,
especially fleece-lined no-shows.
WOMEN’S HOSIERY1
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
2012 Dollar
Share
2011 Dollar
Share*
Pt. Chge. ’12
vs. ’11
100%
100%
Department Stores
13%
12%
National Chains
12%
11%
1.0
Mass Merchants
35%
36%
-1.0
Specialty Stores
18%
17%
1.0
Catalog/Direct Mail
1%
1%
0.0
Internet/Pure Plays
1%
1%
1.0
Off-Price/Factory Outlet/Warehouse Clubs
12%
13%
-1.0
Food/Drug
2%
2%
0.0
Other
5%
7%
-2.0
* The NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11
1
Hosiery = Socks, Sheer Hosiery, Tights
^Internet Pureplays are retailers that offer internet as its primary “storefront.”
Other includes Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc.
Souce: Accessories Magazine
40 ACCESSORIES
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
1.0
• In athletic socks, tech features
(wicking, etc.) remained important
with pops of neon on trims as key.
• Better fabrications sold but value
continued its importance
• Set in the ’80s, TV series “The Carrie
Diaries” is reviving retro emphasis on
colored tights, printed leggings, etc.
• For 2013, invisible liners are key, with
dots, animal, etc. Spring 2013 is all
about color, both brights and pastels,
stripes/dots/florals, as well as lots of
socks and pretty openwork.
• Fall 2013 will be all about great
pattern—especially abstracts and
geometrics—in legwear and leggings.
LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235
NEW YORK 212.564.4710
KBELLSOCKS.COM
A DIVISION OF RENFRO CORPORATION
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
SUNGLASSES
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Even though most accessories
categories had a good year in 2012,
sunglass business was an exception.
Dollar sales fell 12% though unit
sales only fell 2%.
• “Sunglass business was tough last
year. For consumers, it’s a need versus
a desire issue and frankly they felt
they could do without sunwear as a
must-have fashion item,” says
WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Billions
Projected 2013
2012*
2011*
$1.7
$1.5
$1.7
*The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories /
12ME Dec 11 and 12 ME Dec 12
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst
for NPD.
• The average unit sale for sunglasses
was $18.
• Sunglasses are among the highest self
purchase accessories categories. Only
12% were purchased as gifts.
• Though growing slightly, online sales
of sunglasses accounted for only 10%
of sales last year.
• Not surprisingly, 22% of respondents
said they bought their sunglasses for
outdoor use. The rest mostly use them
“anytime.”
• Trendy/fashion-forward sunglasses
were the style that most consumers
purchased, accounting for nearly half
of all sales.
• While about a third of sunglass sales
are for the styling or features of the
glasses, other important reasons
include: price (20%), brand (14%) or
other (14%).
• Sunwear has increasingly been shown
year-round at retailers and this year
was no different.
42 ACCESSORIES
completed in 2012, so the market can
expect more polarized fashion options
like gradient polarized.
• Sunwear remains the entry point to
many designer brands, so consumers
still are drawn to labels. Logos,
however, remain subtle and tasteful,
not overly flashy.
• Polarized lenses carry about a $40 to
$50 premium compared to regular
lenses but better in-store training and
consumer education is helping to
drive the category.
• Retro and cat eyes drove the business.
The cat eye trend may be a few years
old but 2012 was the year it really hit
as a key fashion shape. The oversized
cat was the most wearable but still
had a retro nod.
• For 2013, color is a key trend—pinks,
greens, yellows and shades of blues.
• Transparency and translucency will
increase this year in a wide range of
opacities, from clear to milky, from
blushes to brights. Lenses can be
tonal or in contrasting hues.
• Gradient lenses allowed for oversized
lenses that looked softer on the face.
• Plastic retro frames with a “geeky”
feel were also bestsellers especially in
heavier, non-beveled frames. This is
also a key fashion trend for frames in
the optical world.
• Going forward into 2013, expect
more flash mirror lens sunglasses as a
fashion trend, from basic silvers and
golds to more colorful selections.
• According to data from VisionWatch
(12 months ended September ’12),
sales of reading glasses were up
5.1%. Average retail prices of reading
glasses was $16.76, essentially flat
from 2011.
• In metals, the aviator continued its
reign, from basic styles to colored
metals or mixed media versions.
• Metal shield styles are uptrending as
a fashion statement.
• Mixed-metal combinations (metal
fronts with acetate temples) were
strong, offering the look of metal with
the comfort of plastic.
• For 2013, there will be increased
focus on lenses as consumers get
savvier to technologies such as
polarization. Once merely for sports
sunglasses, polarized lenses are
moving into the fashion world.
• The purchase of Polaroid Eyewear by
fashion sunwear giant Safilo was
WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES1
Style of Accessories
Total
Basic
Classic/Conservative
Sporty/Active
Trendy/Fashion-Forward
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
100%
23%
16%
14%
47%
% of 2011
Dollar
Sales
100%
19%
13%
13%
55%
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 /12 ME Dec 12
WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
Department Stores
National Chains
Mass Merchants
Specialty Stores
Off-Price/Factory Outlets/ Warehouse Clubs
Food/Drug Stores
Other
2012 Dollar
Share
100%
11%
5%
15%
36%
6%
2%
25%
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine
*2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11
Other includes Internet Pure Plays, Catalog/Direct Mail, TV/Home Shopping, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas, etc.
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
11%
5%
17%
35%
7%
3%
23%
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
0.0
0.0
-2.0
1.0
-1.0
-1.0
+2.0
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6WLYH[PVUZ*LU[LY!:LH]PL^+YP]L:LJH\J\Z51 ;LS! www.iconeyewear.com
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
SCARVES/MUFFLERS
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Despite being business stymied by a
fashion trend downturn and muffler
business being chilled by warmer
weather, scarf/muffler business as a
whole managed a 4% increase in
WOMEN’S
SCARVES/MUFFLERS
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Millions
Projected 2013
$458
2012
$440
2011*
$428
*2012 Figures and Projections provided by Accessories
Magazine
*2011 Figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking
Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11
dollar sales last year.
• The average unit retail was $11.
• Similar to 2011, most scarves and
mufflers were purchased on sale,
approximately 54%.
• Nearly half of all scarves/mufflers
purchased last year were unplanned,
although 26% said they were their
primary reason for shopping.
• Although 70% of scarf and muffler
sales were self purchase, 30% were
bought for “someone else.”
• Most scarves/mufflers are purchased
in stores. In 2012, only 10% were
bought online.
• A warm 2012 winter saw consumers
replacing coldweather purchases
with lighter-weight wool scarves.
• Indeed, lightweight, oversized
scarves did well for their versatility
and were worn in all seasons.
• True coldweather merchandise sold
best in lighter weights or open knits
that worked as layering pieces.
• More expensive silk squares had
good sell-throughs as accessories to
the more ladylike fashion trend.
• Pricepoints tended to be polarized
with movement at both ends of the
spectrum.
• The No. 1 silhouette was the infinity
or loop scarf, which became a
powerful fashion staple. Easy-tounderstand and wear, consumers
flocked to this shape, which will
develop further for 2013 with new
treatments and mixed media.
• Infinity rings/loop scarves also
brought a new, younger customer
into the scarf market.
• Going forward, growth will come
not from unit sale increase per se but
from selling better qualities and
raising average unit price.
• Fortunately, the importance of color
and a growing print cycle have
helped the scarf business too. Prints
will continue into 2013.
• The pull-through fur scarf is an easy
item that will grow in importance.
• In coldweather scarves,
manufacturers and retailers are
moving away from weather-driven
offerings to create a fashion-driven
classification. Basics flopped as they
did not provide a reason to buy. Shine
was strong, namely Lurex threads.
• Icy pastels and soft pales were a
highly popular coldweather palette
(as well as traditional jewel tones).
• Ruffles added surface interest and
femininity.
% of 2011
Dollar
Sales
27%
26%
47%
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / Jan 11 to Nov 12
44 ACCESSORIES
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
.
RE
HE
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
My primary reason for shopping
26%
Planned, but not primary reason
24%
Not planned
49%
T
AR
ST
WOMEN’S SCARVES & MUFFLERS1
Planned Purchase
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
SCARVES/MUFFLERS
• For 2013, the industry aims to drive
higher sell-throughs by reasserting
balance of assortments to different
weights and more options.
• Embellishments and treatments with
mixed media will drive scarf and
muffler sales for 2013—from
studding to lace mixed with knits.
• Due to their exposure on the 2012 fall
runways, colored fur (real or faux) will
do even better in 2013, in solids and
creative color-blocking.
WOMEN'S SCARVES/MUFFLERS
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
2012 Dollar
Share
100%
10%
13%
9%
45%
1%
6%
8%
8%
Total
Department Stores
National Chains
Mass Merchants
Specialty Stores
Catalog/Direct Mail
Internet/Pure Plays
Off-Price/Factory Outlet/Warehouse Clubs
Other
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
9%
12%
10%
45%
1%
2%
9%
11%
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
1.0
1.0
-1.0
0.0
0.0
4.0
-1.0
-3.0
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine
* 2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12ME Dec 11
Other includes Food and Drug Store, Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc.
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• The National Oceanic and
Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)
called 2012 the “hottest year in the
lower 48 ever.” That didn’t help
glove/mitten business any—sales fell
8% in dollars and 1% in units.
• The average unit retail was $8.
• Consumers said that most of their
glove/mitten purchases were planned,
about 62%, but most of the sales,
about 53%, were at sale prices.
GLOVES/MITTENS
• Asked to describe the style of their
glove/mitten purchases, most
consumers, 41%, described theirs as
WOMEN’S GLOVES/MITTENS
Style of Accessories
Total
Basic
Classic/Conservative
Sporty/Active
Trendy/Fashion-Forward
WOMEN’S
GLOVES/MITTENS
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Millions
Projected 2013
2012*
2011*
$445
$440.3
$433.7
*The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories /
12ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
46 ACCESSORIES
% of 2012
Dollar Sales
100%
41%
17%
13%
29%
% of 2011
Dollar Sales
100%
39%
18%
12%
31%
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12
• Although most of the glove/mitten
sales were for self purchase, 30% of
sales were purchased as gifts.
• Though proper fit is an issue with
gloves/mittens, 14% were purchased
online, a slight increase from 2011.
“basic.” The second largest group,
almost 30%, described their purchases
as being “trendy/fashion-forward.”
2012 Dollar 2011 Dollar Pt. Chge.
Share
Share*
’12 vs. ’11
100%
100%
Department Stores
20%
21%
-1.0
National Chains
14%
13%
1.0
Mass Merchants
24%
25%
1.0
Specialty Stores
12%
12%
0.0
Off-Price/Factory
Outlets/Warehouse Clubs
7%
9%
-2.0
Other
23%
20%
+3.0
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures by Accessories Magazine
* 2011 Dollar Share figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 11
Other includes Factory Outlets, Off Price, Catalog/Direct Mail, Food and Drug Stores, TV/Home Shopping, Internet Pure Plays, etc.
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
• But citing what reason(s) they bought
their glove/mitten purchases, 27% said
due to the price; 18% said “styling/
fashion-forward” and 26% cited
“other” reasons for their purchases.
• Consumers demanded the ability to
use their smartphones and screens, but
touch gloves were best for swipeanswering phones, while fingerless
(or pop-finger or pop-top) were better
for more intricate typing and texting.
• Touch gloves at all pricepoints caused
some “significant overbuys” at retail
in some situations.
WOMEN’S GLOVES/MITTENS
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
And another 17% described their
purchases as “classic/conservative.”
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
BELTS
WOMEN’S BELTS
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
2012 Dollar
Share
2011 Dollar
Share*
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
100%
100%
Department/National Chain Stores
27%
26%
1.0
Mass Merchants
22%
24%
-2.0
Specialty Stores
26%
25%
1.0
Other
25%
25%
1.0
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
*2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11
Other includes Factory Outlets, Off Price, Catalog/Direct Mail, Food and Drug Stores, TV/Home Shopping, Internet Pureplays, etc. Source: Accessories Magazine
WOMEN’S BELTS
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Millions
Projected 2013
2012*
2011*
$335
$340.8
$350.8
UMBRELLAS
KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012
*The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for
Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 and 12ME Dec 12
*Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Despite being overshadowed by
neckwear in many fashion accessories
departments, the belt category
improved last year after a decline in
2011. Dollar sales increased 2% while
unit sales declined 5%.
• The average unit sale was $12.
• Not surprisingly, most belts are
bought as self purchase. Most, nearly
• Belts continue to be an accessory that
women purchase in a retail store.
Only 8% were sold online last year
though that is up over previous years.
• Asked about their belt purchases,
consumers identified “trendy, fashionforward” 45%; “basic” 38% and
“classic/conversative” 13%.
• When asked why they bought their
belts last year, 27% said for the
“styling/features,” 21% for “the price”
and 23% cited “other” reasons.
• Stretch belts—particularly in 3-inch
than normal precipitation in other
that could drive up retail prices.
regions. So it’s no wonder umbrellas
• To be successful, belts had to be
posted a 14% increase in dollar sales
special or different to attract attention,
with a 1% increase in unit sales.
leaving the basic jean belt off most
• The average unit retail was $10.
consumers’ radars.
• Owing to the fact umbrellas may be
• Skinny belts continued, in ½-inch, ¾-
needed at a particular time for a
inch and 1-inch widths, offering a
specific purpose, 64% of them are
clean look at a nice price, often spiced
sold at regular price and 64% are
up with color or exotic skins.
bought as a planned purchase.
• Colorblocking was strong, with mixed
• More than three quarters of umbrellas
colors and materials.
are bought as self purchase; only 11%
• Python continued as the popular
are bought as gifts.
exotic skin look, adding value.
• While size and fit aren’t important in
Colored and metallic snakeskin was
umbrellas as in many accessories
key, even in embossed versions.
categories, only 9% were purchased
• Soft sashes added waist interest, but
online last year.
with no hardware to clutter the effect.
• Practicality, rather than fashion, is
• Corsets were a trend but had to be
umbrellas: 56% of consumers’
• Adjustable, dual- and multi-purpose
belts (i.e. a slip-on or snap-on buckle)
helped maximize purchases.
WOMEN’S UMBRELLAS
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Millions
• With people getting back to work and
the ladylike dressing trend, consumers
sought out more refined belts.
particularly with front interest.
contoured) waist bands will be key.
• Black-and-white will be key in 2013.
The Preciosa® GENUINE CZECH CRYSTAL™ trademark is a guarantee of the finest quality
Czech product, available only from Preciosa
probably the biggest impetus in
realistic (i.e. 2- to 3-inch widths).
• For Spring 2013, straight across (non-
48 ACCESSORIES
European tradition since 1915
the country last year, but so did heavier
of look but with less metal or leather
widths—were the shining stars,
• Stretch had the benefit of offering lots
Largest selection of crystal stones & beads in the world
• Drought may have hit many parts of
60%, were planned purchases, while
54% were bought at regular retails.
PRECIOSA®
COMPONENTS
purchases were described as “basic.”
• Of umbrella sales last year, 22%
were described as being
“trendy/fashion-forward,” another
Projected 2013
$236
2012*
$235
2011*
$234.5
*The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for
Accessories / 12 ME Dec 12 and 12 ME Dec 11
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
12% as “sporty/active.”
• Asked for the reason for their
umbrella purchase, most consumers,
34%, cited “other.” Price was second
at 28% and 14% for quality.
DISTRIBUTORS OF PRECIOSA® GENUINE CZECH CRYSTAL
STALTM
BEAD & TRIM, Inc. | 212-725-9845 | www.beadandtrim.com
Beads Factory, Inc. | 213-624-2121 | www.beadsfactory.com
John F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.com
Northeastern Importing Corp. | 212-242-4075 | www.northeasternimporting.com
porting.com
Pulver Importing, Inc. | 800-223-7858 | www.jfallen.com
John Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.com (Canada))
www.preciosa.com
co
com
OR CONTACT US AT
[email protected]
[email protected]
info@preciosa
com
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC.
2012 CENSUS REPORT
SLIPPERS/CASUAL FOOTWEAR
SLIPPERS
Sales vs. Regular
% of
2012
Dollar
Sales
% of
2011
Dollar
Sales
100%
100%
On Sale
46%
46%
Regular
Price
54%
54%
Total
Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for
Footwear / 12 ME Dec 12
slipper consumers, style trends are
toward younger, more fun and
contemporary slippers, not
“grandma” looks.
classification was $15.
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS
• Most slippers/casual footwear, some
54%, was purchased at regular price.
• Despite growth in indoor/outdoor
cross-over slippers and casual
footwear that increases the category’s
versatility, the business decreased
overall 2% in dollars and 6% in
units in 2012.
• The average unit retail was $15.
• Breaking out the flip-flop, thong
sandal business—a mainfloor growth
category for most retailers—sales
increased 21% in dollars to $1.6
billion. The average unit retail for this
• Although 44% of consumers say that
their slipper purchases were planned,
34% said theirs were unplanned.
• Slipper/casual footwear sales tend to
be self purchase, some 63% of sales.
• Even though most slipper/casual
footwear purchases were done
in- store last year, 19% of sales
were bought online.
• With the 18 to 25-year-old
demographic truly on the rise as
• No. 1 style? The moccasin, usually
with artisan/Southwest influenced
styles. Best were Southwest-styles in
neutrals or with bright stripes on the
footbed, turquoise-color accents, and
a fringed vamp for an authentic touch.
SLIPPERS
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Millions
Projected 2013
$821
2012*
$820
2011*
$785.5
*The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for
Footwear / 12 ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11
Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
SLIPPERS
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
Total
Apparel Specialty
Catalog/Direct Mail
Department Stores
Discount Stores/Mass Merchants
National Chains
Off Price
Online/Internet Pureplay
Shoe Chain
Shoe Stores
Other
2012 Dollar
Share
100%
4%
5%
17%
25%
12%
6%
7%
4%
5%
18%
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
5%
5%
17%
24%
11%
6%
5%
4%
5%
19%
Pt. Chge.
’12 vs. ’11
-1.0
0.0
0.0
-1.0
1.0
0.0
+2.0
0.0
0.0
-1.0
WHOLESALE,SIMPLIFIED
Expect the moccasin to continue as a
top seller this year, too.
• There’s a return to the soft sole for a
comfortable, cushiony, curl-up-onthe-couch slipper. The short bootie
style also performed extremely well.
• A scuff/clog with pretty sweater knits
was popular, especially with trims and
treatments for visual interest.
• Indoor/outdoor soles continue to be a
market driver especially to younger
consumers who use hard soles both
for indoor as well as outdoor wear.
Since comfort footwear remains so
strong, manufacturers are continuing
to improve arched footbeds and
outsoles for greater cushioning and
enhanced support.
• A sequined clog with dyed to match
fur in hot pink was popular in 2012,
particularly in specialty retailers. This
high-impact, statement piece offered a
wow factor at retail.
• The velour bootie, a perennial
favorite, continued as a top performer.
Though far from a contemporary
style, it proved popular for gift-giving
and not just for Baby Boomers.
College girls love them, too.
• Ballet flats are still important but the
moccasin is overtaking them.
• Smoking slippers may not have had
the sales volume that softer, cozier
styles did, but they still made a strong
fashion statement and will remain a
powerful flat silhouette. The penny
loafer look with its stylized, preppy
feel is expected to be more important
going forward, namely in fun colors.
• Sweater knits remain popular but
Nordic looks continue to evolve with
more experimental treatments in
crushed velvets, terries, microfibers,
suedes and velour.
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• Fur remains a key material in natural
and dyed-to-match colorations.
• Regarding animal prints, women
never seem to tire of leopard.
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
*2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Footwear /12 ME Dec 11
Other includes Athletic Specialty, Factory Outlet, Sporting Goods, Warehouse Clubs, etc.
50 ACCESSORIES
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
99 Madison Avenue | New York, NY 10016 | P: 201.706.4580 | [email protected]
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, I NC.
HATS/CAPS
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
30% said they specifically went
shopping for their hat purchases.
• While most hats/caps were bought as
a self purchase, 28% were purchased
for someone else.
• The vast majority of headwear is
purchased in a store location, but
11% were sold online in 2012.
• Although headwear enjoyed sales
increases in recent years, sales slowed
down to only about a 1% gain in
2012. This left retailers blaming a
warm winter and struggling to
understand soft spring/summer sales.
• In 2012, the fedora remained the
most popular silhouette, but trended
toward a broader-brim fedora or
Panama hat.
• The average unit retail was $11.
• With fedoras sold “on every street
corner” however, the industry rallied
to create new and innovative styles
and approaches, featuring mixed
media—anything to give the
consumer a reason to buy.
• Women continue to look for more
than pricepoint in their hat/cap
purchases. Last year 64% of the
purchases were made on headwear
that wasn’t on sale.
• Hats/caps are true accessories, mostly
bought on impulse. Last year, 55%
were unplanned purchases. Another
• While straws had some bright spots,
overall they were a disappointment.
This baffled retailers optimistic about
consumers’ heightened desire for
increased sun protection.
WOMEN’S HATS/CAPS
Retail Sales Estimates
$ Millions
Projected 2013
2012
2011*
2012 CENSUS REPORT
• Openwork straws provided more
breatheability as well as fashion
patterns in the weave.
$328.7
$326.8
$320.5
• Oversized floppies reduced in scale
*2012 Figures and Projections provided by Accessories Magazine
*2011 Figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking
Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11
% of
2011Dollar
Sales
My primary reason for shopping
30%
35%
Planned, but not primary reason
16%
25%
Not planned
55%
40%
Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / Jan 11 - Nov 12
KEY RETAIL
TRENDS 2012
• Hair accessories had a strong year,
driven by various pop culture
influences that helped renew
consumers’ interest in the category.
• Although “The Great Gatsby” movie
WOMEN’S HATS/CAPS
Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution
2012 Dollar
Share
2011 Dollar
Share*
100%
100%
Department Stores
7%
5%
National Chains
10%
9%
1.0
Mass Merchants
11%
12%
-1.0
Specialty Stores
35%
34%
+1.0
Catalog/Direct Mail/Internet Pureplays
5%
3%
+2.0
Off-Price/Factory Outlet/Warehouse Clubs
9%
11%
-3.0
Other
23%
26%
-3.0
Total
Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine.
*2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11
Other includes Food and Drug Store, Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc.
52 ACCESSORIES
• For Fall 2012, fur felt cloches were a
strong feminine silhouette, certainly
propelled by PBS’s historical hit
series “Downton Abbey.”
• Looking forward into 2013, trims and
embellishments are minimal,
permitting shape and form to steal the
show. Silhouettes are ladylike and
feminine. On the other side, glamour
with embellishment and saturated
colors make strong statements:
femininity mixed with edge.
• Fedoras remain the key silhouette
with broader brimmed versions
offering more versatility, taking the
consumer from the beach to a
nightclub in a way that an oversized
floppy hat cannot.
• For 2013, trend manufacturers are
really banking on fashionable
baseball caps (see photo) seen on
many fashion runways, to inject
newness and revive the classification.
HAIRGOODS
WOMEN’S HATS/CAPS1
Planned Purchase
% of 2012
Dollar
Sales
into more manageable sizes. Those
that weren’t packable did not sell
through as they were too impractical
and too dramatic for anyone but the
boldest fashion star.
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM
Pt. Chge. ’12
vs. ’11
2.0
was delayed from its scheduled
Holiday 2012 release, it was still a
main influencer of trends. “Downton
Abbey,” originally set in the 1910s,
was full of gorgeous hair pieces, too.
In 2013, Season 3 is set in the 1920s,
giving women lots of inspiration for
hair clips, jeweled combs and flapperinspired beaded headbands.
• Soft headwraps with ornamentation
were key. These ranged from stretch
fabric with a brooch detail (usually
clear rhinestone), to beaded
headbands backed with felt and
secured with elastic. Thinner softer
bands could be worn in the hair or
across the forehead.
• Neon and other brightly colored
clip-in hair extensions (a la Nicki
Minaj) added some trendy touches
that appealed to women from tweens
to twenty year olds.
GAME CHANGER
ASIA MAJOR
Wild animals like zebras and cheetahs have left the Big Game
reserve this season and joined their domesticated cousins like the
cow. With the graphic black-and-white trend spilling over into Fall,
our favorite animal prints are those in stark contrasts, whether
Mother Nature intended them that way or not. From left, Pre-Fall
2013 fashions from: Givenchy, Christopher Kane, Jason Wu.
Prada wasn’t the only designer looking East last season,
nor will it be the last. As fashion designers turn to Asia for
fashion inspiration (not to mention a new breed of highend consumers), they will find plenty of ideas at “Asia
Week New York.” The week-long fair opens March 15,
2013 with the largest number of gallery participants since
its inception. Above: Tane Seed Maio Motoko 2011 installation of fold screens 61 x 61 inches each, at the Lesley
Kehoe Galleries during Asia Week New York.
WELL-HEELED
With over 150 stunning contemporary specimens on display, The Museum at FIT
would be wise to prepare for
stampedes of high-heeled,
shoe-obsessed visitors. “Shoe
Obsession,” currently showing and running through April
13, 2013, shows exactly why
retail shoe departments everywhere are expanding. From
top: Roger Vivier Eyelash heel pumps, Fall 2012-13;
Alexander McQueen brace shoe, 2010, from the Collection
of Daphne Guinness.
FOXY LADY
Sly and sleek, the fox has already found its
way onto fashion runways, and now it’s
appearing as an accessory motif. Here, a
fox struts its stuff on a Jill Stuart silk
dress, an elegant Melvin leather cuff and a
cuddly Accessory Collective knit cap.
PEARLY GIRL
Get those pearls out and that ’do up…Holly
Golightly is back! “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” hits the
Broadway stage this month, bringing classic ladylike fashion along with it. Starring Emilia Clarke
(unrecognizable without her “Game of Thrones”
platinum hair), the show is sure to have many
iconic accessories moments. Opening
March 20, 2013 (previews begin March 4).
54 ACCESSORIES
| MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM