Mens Feature 7pgs - Yonick Writing Co.
Transcription
Mens Feature 7pgs - Yonick Writing Co.
Men’s Jewelry Flexing Your Muscle in the Men’s Market The macho man has bitten the dust and been replaced by someone just as tough inside, but softer around the edges. As the men’s market for apparel, accessories and grooming products continues to gain serious ground, jewelers who aren’t capitalizing on the enormous potential that men’s jewelry offers are missing the chance to earn greater profits and new customers in a highly competitive playing field. D.SEIAG STAHL DESIGN By Deborah Yonick FIBO STEEL This fall, the latest must-have item in men’s what to wear. Cosmetic brands such as accessories is the bag. Expected to be a major Ella Bache say that men make up as much as growth area in the men’s market, the “man 40 percent of their salon customers in some purse” (aka “murse” or “manny pack”) is des- areas. There also is growth in men’s fashion tined to be a huge seller this season as young hottie celebrities like Jake Gyllenhaal and chains, with women’s stores like Esprit Orlando Bloom are slinging them over their offering men’s ranges, and department stores giving boutiqueshoulders, according to style experiences. Worth Global Style Men’s magazines are Network (WGSN), increasing their fashion the London research coverage, and not just and trends analysis for editorial reasons service for the fashion, either, but because design, and style they’re getting more industries. If men are ads. The men’s title sporting handbags, is FHM says its fashion there any doubt they’re DAVID HESTON and grooming advertising has increased wearing jewelry? The Average Joe is anything but average, 35 percent in recent years. Marketers attribute the phenomenon as more heterosexual men are acquiring a stronger aesthetic sense of themselves, to the feminist movement. As the presence spending more time and money on their of women has increased in men’s social appearance and lifestyle. Twenty years ago and working lives, men have changed the male fashion, skin care, and vanity in way they act. Straight men, some margeneral were identified with gay men. Now keters believe, also are changing because their female partners demand that they sexuality is irrelevant. Today’s new males are occupying their take greater care in their appearance. Moretime differently, as the “metrosexual” move- over, the workplace has changed. As the ment has gained momentum over the years. proportion of white-collar workers They go to the hairdresser rather than the grows, so does the need to look good. barber, visit the gym instead of playing sports, Although younger men are leading the avoid using soap because it’s too harsh on charge, men of all ages are enjoying fashion their skin, and even have difficulty deciding liberation. OUTFIT 4 BY Celebrity impact “Men are accepting jewelry as ‘manly’ fashion and the term ‘metrosexual’ is a high compliment today,” says retail management consultant Kate Peterson, president and CEO of Performance Concepts in Montgomery Village, Maryland, who notes that the idea of the male self-purchaser is not so far-fetched. Men represent about half of consumers in the country, yet they are a relatively untapped market from a jewelry standpoint, states Michael O’Connor, trends expert and senior vice president for Platinum Guild International USA in New York City. “We’re seeing more clothing, accessories, fragrance, and cosmetic manufacturers start to realize the potential of the men’s market and target them specifically. The jewelry industry needs to catch up and get their market share.” Popular male sports figures, musicians and actors have been the biggest motivators, pushing the fashion, accessories, and grooming categories along among mainstream men who are following their cues. David Beckham, Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise, and Hugh Jackman are among the poster boys. “The trend towards men’s jewelry is seen among popular male celebrities who are wearing more jewelry, and in more unusual designs,” adds O’Connor. “Even Clint Eastwood has been seen at awards shows with a lapel pin. Terrence Howard DIESEL wore a large platinum and diamond brooch to the Academy Awards, and Johnny Depp is regularly seen with lots of layered pieces. For the Emmy Awards, we expect to see more men venturing out of the ordinary, spicing up their classic tuxedos with pins, but also adding bracelets and rings to go with the obligatory watch, cufflinks, and shirt studs.” Jewelry brands are catching on to the value of celebrity endorsements. Men’s jewelry by the Italian brand Fibo Steel – mixing stainless steel with leather, rubber and carbon fiber – is pushing its latest line of handcuff-inspired bracelets, link necklaces, and novelty cufflinks with endorsements by soccer stars Gianluigi Buffon and Nelson Dida, goalies for the Italian and Brazilian national teams. Perhaps the best endorsements by celebrities are from those who design their own jewelry. Such is the case with Bon Jovi drummer, Tico Torres, who created a new line he calls “Rock Star Baby.” Torres developed silver jewelry designs following the birth of his son in 2004 to fill a void he saw in the accessories market for rock-androll-loving children and their parents. Distributed by Miami Steel (which also DAVID LIN supplies Fibo Steel in the USA, Canada, and the Caribbean), the collection has dog tags, bracelets, rings, and pendants. → ROCK STAR BABY JQ September/October 2006 September/October 2006 JQ BON JOVI RICHIE SAMBORA JEWELRY WORN BY BAND MEMBER 5 ◆ 84% wear a watch ◆ 63% have a fashion ring ◆ 46% don a necklace ◆ 26% sport a bracelet ◆ 19% wear earrings ◆ 18% use cufflinks The most popular price points for men self-purchasers: ◆ 9% spent less than $50 ◆ 19% spent $51 to $100 ◆ 25% spent $101 to $250 ◆ 17% spent $251 to $500 ◆ 13% spent $501 to $1000 ◆ 7% spent over $1000 ◆ 5% said they would not purchase jewelry for themselves What would inspire men to purchase more jewelry? ◆ 65% said more affordable prices ◆ 31% said better product selection ◆ 17% said more information ◆ 10% said better marketing BARBERISPRATI 6 Men’s Jewelry Men’s Jewelry Preferences An exclusive 2006 JCOC/JQ survey on men’s jewelry found that for those men who wear jewelry other than a wedding band: Buying stats (JQ/JCOC study) U.S. consumers spent nearly $60 billion on jewelry last year, with only 11 percent attributed to men’s jewelry purchases. But, both self-purchasing men and gift-giving women would be open to purchasing male jewelry if more options in product and price were promoted, MARK SILVERSTEIN IMAGINES says the Jewelry Consumer Opinion Council (JCOC), a research e-panel by MVI Mar- These results differed slightly from 2004 keting, Ltd. of Paso Robles, California. when bracelets were more popular than According to a study conducted exclu- watches in wish-list rankings. Moreover, sively for JQ by MVI Marketing from July diamonds are fast becoming a man’s best 19 to 25, some 3,284 JCOC members (15 friend; nearly 70 percent say they would conpercent were male) tallied their thoughts on sider wearing diamond jewelry, compared to men’s jewelry. About 73 percent of males sur- 21 percent in 2004. veyed reported wearing jewelry, comparable What would inspire men to purchase to results from a similar JCOC study in more jewelry? About 65 percent say more 2004. affordable prices, while Of the jewelryfor nearly a third, it is wearing men, 84 percent greater product selecwear a watch, 63 percent tion. In 2004, more have a fashion ring, and than a quarter each 46 percent don a neckrated design and indilace, with about 26 pervidual style most influcent sporting a bracelet. ential. As to what These results reflect 2004 would make guys more findings. More than a comfortable in a fine third of male respondents jewelry store, about a say they wear two pieces third each say a casual of jewelry at a time, over atmosphere and special a quarter wear three, and events geared to men, about 14 percent wear while nearly a quarter ERICA COURTNEY four pieces, also similar to 2004. Half pur- each say it would be helpful if sales associates chased their own jewelry, with over 40 per- were better trained in cent receiving it as a gift, akin to 2004. The selling men’s jewelry, most popular price points for self-purchasing and more advertising men were between $101 to $250 for 25 per- showed men wearing cent of those sampled, $51 to $100 for 19 trendy jewelry. → percent, and $251 to $500 for 17 percent. MAGICK This differed slightly from 2004 in the order of the top three, with $500 still the cap. About 7 percent would spend upwards of $1,000 on themselves. Regarding jewelry styles that men do not own but wish they did, about 30 percent want a fashion ring, over a quarter report desiring a watch, 20 percent each say bracelet and necklace, BIELKA while 14 percent want cufflinks. JQ September/October 2006 An exclusive 2006 JCOC/JQ survey on men’s jewelry found that for men who don’t wear jewelry, the reasons are: ◆ 31% said it is too expensive ◆ 26% said it is too impractical or dangerous for their jobs or hobbies ◆ 25% said it is too feminine or vain-looking ◆ 24% said it is too uncomfortable ◆ 13% said they were too unfamiliar with it ◆ 6% said they did not like the available styles The same survey asked women how they perceive jewelry on men: ◆ 50% would like their partner to wear more watches, fashion rings or bracelets ◆ 64% like the look of it against a man’s skin ◆ 59% say men look good in diamonds ◆ 57% think jewelry makes a man more fashionable or trendy ◆ 54% think men look wellgroomed in jewelry ◆ 54% think wearing it is a sign of confidence ◆ 37% think it makes a man more handsome ◆ 37% think it is a sign of status of wealth VIANNA Men’s Jewelry Men Who Don’t Wear Jewelry, Women’s Opinions of Men in Jewelry As to why men don’t wear jewelry, the top answers for a quarter to a third of non-jewelry sporting guys include: it’s too expensive, impractical, or dangerous for their jobs or hobbies; it is too feminine or vainlooking; it is too uncomfortable. In gauging the habits of giftgiving women, nearly half say that the men in their lives wear jewelry. Over 80 percent say their guys wear a watch, 70 percent report a necklace, nearly half indicate a fashion ring, and 40 percent say a bracelet. More than half say their men wear precious metal jewelry without diamonds or gems, 45 percent report diamond jewelry and pieces set with colored stones. As for the women whose men do not wear jewelry, 63 percent say their guys have no interest, 48 percent say it’s impractical, and about a quarter say it’s uncomfortable or perceived to be too feminine. How do women perceive jewelry on their men? More than half would like to see their male XEN counterparts wear more of it, 10 percent more than in 2004, with a watch, necklace, fashion ring, and bracelet most attractive. About 59 percent also think men look good in diamonds. Around 59 percent find men sexy in jewelry, on par with 2004 results. Over half also agree that a man appears well groomed and fashionable in jewelry, expressing a sign of confidence. Some 37 percent agree that jewelry makes a man more handsome. About 41 percent say they prefer when men wear jewelry, 64 percent like the look of it against a man’s skin, and a third wish their men wore more of it. Nearly three quarters of the female respondents say CATHERINE ANGIEL DESIGNS they have purchased jewelry for a man before, similar to the 2004 survey. Watch, necklace and fashion ring were the top three responses, followed by bracelet and cufflinks, on par with 2004. Birthdays and Christmas rate as the top two occasions to purchase jewelry for a man, according to more than half of the female respondents, with 40 percent purchasing it because they saw something he would TENO like, and about a third each saying for Valentine’s Day or “just because.” Nearly half collectively would spend between $101 and $500 on men’s jewelry as a gift. Like their male self-purchasing counterparts, more than half of the women surveyed say affordable prices and a DE GRISOGONO third greater product selection would inspire them to buy more jewelry for men. → OSCAR HEYMAN 8 JQ September/October 2006 Men’s Jewelry BERNARD RELLER L.EDGAR DUFF DESIGNS JERRY SPAULDING 10 product that’s cool and current without being Hot products A July 20, 2006 article in The New York too pricey or mass-produced.” With this in Times, “Hanging by a Chain, A Young Man’s mind, Duff’s latest collection combines silver Secret Self,” identified design directions in with materials like rubber, turquoise and men’s jewelry for young guys who appreciate Greek leather. “It offers a playful yet serious archetypal symbols, and ethnic and organic approach to the men’s market,” she describes, inspired designs with meaning. The edito- noting that one of her best-selling pieces, called “Men’s Knight Out,” rial highlighted the trend is an armor helmet with a toward layering, and the cross pendant. importance of understated O’Connor believes that looks. It said that “jewelry more manufacturers are realhas largely lost the connoizing the opportunities and tations of effeminacy, class creating hip new lines. He or ethnicity that long kept sees Gothic-inspired designs it outside the mainstream.” as hot, with the use of crosses Peterson says that men and skulls popular. Manugenerally prefer subtle, facturer Bernard Reller of simple and functional Reller Inc., Gainesville, designs to unique, flashy, Florida says that pirate motifs high fashion looks, which have been in demand, paris why stainless steel ticularly because of the jewelry has become so “Pirates of the Caribbean” popular. “It sells incredibly movies. In addition to skullwell in just about every and-crossbone designs, he market I’ve seen, urban or crafts jewelry with salvaged suburban.” HEINZ MAYER coins that boast a real pirate Helena Krodel for the history. Jewelry Information Reller says he designs for Center (JIC) in New York men who don’t usually City says that the shift in bother with jewelry, like men’s attitudes toward jewhim. “What resonates well elry is not just relegated to with men are designs that the young. She sees men of relate to their passions, such all ages embracing their as sports, sailing, fishing, own unique style and DIAMOND PEAK flying, diving, and even accessorizing to personalize their looks. Next to watches, she reports treasure hunting. “Men prefer robust jewstrength in cufflinks, and a greater move- elry that will survive an active lifestyle, with ment toward wearing bracelets, fashion rings clasps that are durable, easy to manipulate, and pendant necklaces, especially motifs that and interesting.” Reller has had great suchave talisman significance. She also reports cess with his cable rope designs. “Rope is a demand for alternative metals like steel, traditional motif for jewelry, especially for sailing folk. Old time sailors would weave tungsten and titanium. The problem in the men’s jewelry market scraps of rope into bracelets and other ornahistorically has been a lack of design choices, ments. I use modern materials like stainless reminds designer Lauren Duff of L. Edgar steel, titanium and gold to recreate this Duff, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, who believes ancient art form. I also make clasps that are men are looking for a break from the miniature versions of marine and industrial traditional. “The challenge to con- hardware like the pin (or bow) shackle and sumers is finding the right niche snap shackle.” → STEPHEN WEBSTER JQ September/October 2006 Men’s Jewelry CAESAR’S DESIGNS Men tend to like heavier jewelry that is chunky in appearance, describes O’Connor, who notes that guys are opting for white metal jewelry with increasing interest in platinum for its durability. “They also like jewelry that’s comfortable to wear. Additionally, men like unusual mixes of materials and textures that create a masculine look, so designers are using matte and/or brushed finishes in combination with unique elements, like a bracelet set with a platinum plate on a black leather strap.” Despite men’s preference for the simple and rugged, they are interested in sparkle, CHRIS AIRE and less are afraid of diamonds on watches, bracelets, rings, and other pieces, says O’Connor. Designer Chris Aire has a great selection of dog tags and other diamond-studded styles. More often than not, the diaVICKIE RIGGS DESIGNS monds used are more subtle, as in the “Meteor Burst” cufflinks by Vickie Riggs of San Diego, California. Her design sets rutilated quartz doublets in 18K gold with a shooting star imagery of scattered diamonds. Bands are popular for men, but different than weddings rings in that they are wider and worn on the right hand, typically the index or middle finger, says Caesar Azzam of Caesar’s Designs Jewelry Creations in Pittsburgh. Men’s fashion bands are often more interesting in texture like the architectural styles of Niki Kavakonis of Toronto that mimic the ridged Doric columns of ancient Greece. New York City designer Catherine Zadeh, who has been crafting men’s jewelry for the CATHERINE ZADEH DESIGNS past decade, says cufflink sales in the last two years have been phenomenal as more men are realizing they can wear them on dress shirts with jeans. Next, bracelets are becoming more important, which Zadeh crafts in buffalo horn and alligator with 18K gold and sterling silver in her latest Fiero and Fence Collections that also include pendants and rings. Accessories like belt buckles have become a must have for jewelers, advocates designer Gina Nigrelli of Jules Smith Designs, St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. “We design belt buckles made to order and have found them to be a great introductory piece for men,” says Nigrelli, who is preparing to launch a full men’s line. What retailers can do Historically, retail jewelers have shied away from delving too deeply into men’s jewelry, opting to rely on diamonds and the bridal market to carry their sales. Yet, the biggest segment of their business has been yielding the smallest profits, forcing retailers to explore other categories. Elizabeth Chatelain, president of MVI Marketing, reminds jewelers that three-quarters of male consumers surveyed wear jewelry, with half buying it for themselves. Nearly three quarters of polled female consumers have purchased jewelry for men before. “The market exists. Our surveys show that men enjoy wearing a range of jewelry styles, with an affinity for diamonds, and women like to see men in jewelry. Both selfpurchasing men and female gift givers report that greater product selection and more affordable prices (not exceeding $500) would inspire them to buy more men’s jewelry. Christmas and birthdays are the most popular time for gifts of men’s jewelry, followed by Valentine’s Day, so greater attention should be given to marketing men’s jewelry for these occasions.” → NIKI KAVAKONIS JULES SMITH DESIGNS 12 JQ September/October 2006 Men’s Jewelry Chatelain also emphasizes the need for jewelers to appeal to what men like, and consider hosting more special events geared to men, as well as running more ads that depict men wearing jewelry to promote the possibilities. She says it’s important for retailers to alleviate men’s concerns that jewelry is uncomfortable, impractical, too expensive, and only for women. Retailers also need to encourage women, who are in their stores more often than men, to consider gent’s jewelry for gifts. “Even when she is shopping for herself, plant the seeds.” Incorporating men’s jewelry takes a greater commitment in inventory and marketing than jewelers have traditionally invested. O’Connor says that jewelers can improve “their representation by augmenting their selections of men’s jewelry in-store, as well as displaying it in a more prominent position and targeting men specifically in their marketing efforts through direct mail, list-sharing with local businesses that cater to men, and advertising in magazines that reach male readers.” Peterson advocates OUTFIT BY W2M advertising to gift-giving women in traditional women’s magazines as well, with the message that “he can look good, too.” She also reminds jewelers that romance and fashion don’t have to be mutually exclusive concepts. “How often have we seen jewelry ads on TV where the hunky man giving a ring to a woman is actually wearing a piece of jewelry himself, other than maybe a wedding band? Stores can start making a statement that jewelry is about a look, style, and fashion, and that men deserve to decorate themselves, too.” Having pictures in the store window of Hollywood moguls sporting the latest trends is a smart way to attract business. Krodel OUTFIT 14 BY suggests a press book showing clippings of male celebrities wearing jewelry. She also notes that while many jewelers have limited display space to carry extensive lines, look books of available styles can show the possibilities. She also advocates wish-lists for men. Atlanta jeweler, Goldwasser, calls it “the vault” on the company’s website, with private passwords allowing clients to view and add to their lists. Duff advises jewelers to reach out to existing clients to start promoting this market segment. She encourages jewelers to open their minds to new men’s products. “Don’t limit your offerings to what you’ve seen available in the past. Think rock star, rap mogul, or Hollywood icon. Keep offerings wide enough in range that they’ll appeal to business executives and the growing youth market. Everyone enjoys fun on the weekend; give them something they can wear while having it.” JQ EMIL KRAUS Menswear Trends Menswear collections for F/W 2006-2007 are an eclectic blend of “old meets new” with emphasis on military-inspired clothing, mixing the vintage styling of the 1940s with updated themes. Medals, badges, and pins adorned tailcoats and distressed leather jackets, bags and hats. Camouflage incorporates logos, paint splatters, and animal and plant life. Nautical influences are seen in chunky, fisherman knits and naval-inspired brass button trims. Accessories are an integral part of the whole package with bowlers and top hats, as well as work boots laced to the ankle, and men’s handbags. S/S seasons have always brought to mind simple lines and crisp whites. For 2007, designers took this look to another level, mixing it with unexpected fabrics, colors and silhouettes. The hottest trend is dressy shorts and short suits with hemlines just above the knee in cool whites of varying tones such as vanilla, parchment, and ivory mixed with splashes of vivid citrus orange, canary yellow, cobalt blue, and bold red. The essential white suit is slim with narrow trousers in surprising lamé. Subtle decorative placements such as caviar beading and sequin trims highlight hems and trace collars. A spin on casual looks is the addition of funky sunglasses, shiny metallic loafers, or bejeweled tiepins and glittering cufflinks. The big shirt also is trendy. Sports and resort wear are standout themes. Although the emerging trends work particularly well for a younger market, men in their 30s, 40s, 50s, and older can take elements of style from the various design directions to incorporate into their own look. But, while trends come and go, classic looks remain timeless. Validating the staying power of a true classic was the thunderous standing ovation actor George Clooney received when he joined Italian designer Giorgio Armani at the close of his runway show in Milan earlier this year clad in a signature Armani suit. Y-3 JQ September/October 2006