No. 8 - Capsule

capsuleshow.com
@#capsuleshow
JAN
2k14
COLLAB
BLAB
Trend forecasting group K-HOLE riffs
on the perks of brand opacity.
Brand collaborations think of culture
as either additive (+) or scalar (x). Collaborations work like content aggregators. They begin with the simple
idea of differentiated and delegated
roles, and 'teamwork' (you write, I publish) but quickly expand into a more
nebulous arena of authorless flow (no
one writes, everyone publishes).
points for different consumers. Initially,
the collaboration capitalized on the
jock strap logic of gay fashion choices. (Whatever looks hot in the gym
looks hot in the club, and vice versa.)
But discontented with their limited
appeal to the gay-urban-gym-bunnyclub-kid contingent, the collab quickly
went into overload and began adding additional players.
culture. Rapper $ added his name to
the mix to produce a limited edition
pair of rat-tailed matte black hightops. The new collab-collab (Rapper $ x Label M x Company C3) is a
smokescreen brand. It’s perfect for DL
culture, living somewhere between
hip-hop's embedded homophobia
and white gay men's fetishization of
black bodies. If Pop Ratchet is the
The Label M x Company C3 collabonew Bisexual (in terms of buzzworthy
ration has followed this trajectory. It Girl X, an up-and-coming rapper things ex-Disney stars do for attenLabel M’s popularity with Alpha gays from Harlem famous for anti-thigh tion at the VMAs) Label M x Company
and Company C3’s legacy sportswear gap flows, became the official face of C3 is vibing on that wave in an urban
line, long associated with soccer hoo- the brand, allowing the collab's iden- male market. It works in either Crown
ligans, allow for different emphatic tity to bleed into both black and gay Heights or Chelsea, spanning Tumblr
dashboards as tag-cloud-cum-product.
Brand collaborations present themselves like riddles, but they're actually
more like zen koans. They work in a lot
of different ways for a lot of different
people. No one answer unlocks their
meaning. Opacity is just as good at
announcing weirdness as it is at hiding secrets. It all depends how you
make it work for you.
////////////////////////////////////////////
For more of K-HOLE’s latest reports
visit khole.net
CONTRA //// New, prix fixe-only resto
with new menu each night. 138 Orchard St, New York contranyc.com
MISSION CANTINA
//// Mission Chinese chef Danny Bowdien takes on
Mexican cuisine on the LES. Try your
luck at getting a table. 172 Orchard
St, New York missioncantinanyc.com
Luca’s Travel Playlist
Luca’s created a playlist that’s perfect for listening
while on the road.
1 2 3 4 BEVERLY’S //// Minimalist bar caters
to the art crowd. 21 Essex St, New York
beverlysnyc.com
B
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S
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FORGTMENOT //// Honey surf shack
decor with cocktails like the Dirty Pickle Martini fall just on the right side of
pretentious. 138 Division St, New York
R
E
Luca’s hometown recommendations:
Restaurant: Walter Foods. Bar Steak is an absolute
classic. 253 Grand St, Brooklyn
Cheap Eats: Mexico 2000! This gem is tucked away
in the back of a bodega near the Hewes JMZ stop
on Broadway in Brooklyn. 367 Broadway, Brooklyn
Bar: Maison Premiere forever, and add some of
their delicious oysters to your perfect Manhattan.
298 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn
IV
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A
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Jetsetting aside, Venezia’s heart still lies in his hometown. “New York City is on fire right now, and I'm
not just saying this because I’m a native New Yorker.
The craft cocktail bars, the restaurants, the new
clubs in Brooklyn, the secret warehouse after-hours
all booming. It feels like a new New York.”
GOLDEN CADILLAC //// New 70’sthemed cocktail lounge, complete with
vintage Playboys in the bathroom. 13
First Ave, New York
goldencadillacnyc.com
169 BAR //// Still good and divey after all these years. 169 E Broadway,
New York 169barnyc.com
A
See Naked & Famous Denim at Capsule Berlin, Paris, New
York and Las Vegas
When he’s not travelling, Venezia’s always busy
on the home front, having just produced a major
single for legendary ‘90s pop diva Robin S, plus
more new singles and remixes as Curses, featuring collaborations with Cedric, the vocalist of Azari
and III, George Maple, Petite Meller. Under his label
Trouble and Bass, which specializes in hard-hitting
warehouse beats, Venezia is planning a series of
events in conjunction with techno masters Verboten.
ROBERTA’S //// Taste what all the
hype is about. Just the best darn pizza around. Be sure to make reservations. This place is always packed.
261 Moore St, Brooklyn
robertaspizza.com
BARS/CLUBS
E
Luca Venezia is a DJ in demand, and the Manhattan native, now living in Williamsburg, is never at
home for too long, always jetsetting off to the next
city and the next party. Venezia, who cuts a striking figure in all in black (always) describes his personal style as “Romance in the black moon's light.”
He picks up his favorite designers like McQueen,
Westwood, Rick Owens and Musium Div at stores
like Izzue and I.T in Asia, OAK in Brooklyn, Mr. Porter
online and Liberty in London.
THE LEADBELLY //// Cheap cocktails,
oysters, live music and quirky décor
are reasons to visit this spot, from the
team behind farm-to-table pioneer
Fat Radish. 14 Orchard St, New York
theleadbelly.com
TUTU’S //// Feel the love at our very
own DJ Lucas’ very own cozy, neighborhood restaurant and bar. Go for
the gastropub fare and stay for the
great vibes! 25 Bogart St, Brooklyn
tutusbrooklyn.com
L
photo credit Adri Law (adrilaw.com)
Boards Of Canada — New Seeds
DJ Koze — Nices Wölkchen
Fad Gadget — The Box
Curses — The Deep End
(Holy Ghost! Day School Dub)
5 Maya Jane Coles — No Stick
6 Lee Foss — Stringer Bell
7 Curses — So Good
8 Moderat — Bad Kingdom
9 Hot Natured — Mercury Rising
10 Aphex Twin— IZ-US
11 Gorgon City — Cycles
12 Tangerine Dream — The Dream Is
Always The Same
E
But please, for your own well being, never read a
blog or a tweet or a status update again—or else
you'll end up just like the freaks I work with, checking
for trending topics instead of inventing new ones.
AN CHOI //// Tiny Vietnamese place
serving up he best Bun (noodle bowls)
on the LES. 85 Orchard St, New York
anchoinyc.com
Y
If you want to get fresh, if you want to know the
future of fashion, sit down with your granddad. He
might make you change his bedpan, but he'll also
tell you a thing or two about style. If your grandpa's
dead, which is completely understandable, hit the
streets of New York. There are tons of old, homeless
dudes on the corners and subway platforms of the
Big Apple who are wearing like five winter coats at
the same time—if that layering steez doesn't blow
your fashion mind, I don't know what will.
Factory Visit: Naked and Famous Denim, Canada
The Naked and Famous team have been part of
the Capsule Show family for as long as we can remember. A family-run business itself, Naked & Famous denim is all made in Canada in a factory
that’s been in the family for decades. “My family has
been manufacturing workwear for over 60 years
in Canada, and this factory is a testament to our
commitment to keeping domestic production alive
and thriving,” explains owner Brandon Svarc. “We
have many old sturdy machines from the 1950s and
60s, all made from metal with no plastic parts. We
even have a rare Union Special 43200G bulldog
chain-stitching machine which is Made in USA but
we had to track it down from a machine seller in the
countryside in Japan!” Naked and Famous proudly
boasts its Canadian provenance on every package. “We are proudly Canadian citizens, we love
hockey and snow, and we have local expertise and
experienced workforce. In Canada, we can make
things very quickly, communicate to the factory in
a language that we actually speak,” Brandon tells
us proudly.
PSULE
A
C
RECOMMENDS
RESTAURANTS
7
COPENHAGEN
Patrick Jørgensen, Rascals
Copenhagen doesn't have any rooftop bars, but there's a cemetery located right in the middle of my neighborhood, Nørrebro, called Assistens
Kirkegården and it's one of our favorite spots in the city. It's almost like
a gothic maze, without the vampires
and zombies, though you should be
aware of flashers lurking behind the
gravestones.
Kapelvej 4, 2200 København N
If you actually saw the schlubs who work with me
at the internet, you'd never go to your computer for
#menswear again. For a while, I used to sit next to
a guy named Shoenice, who would suck down car
wax and motor oil for lunch right at his desk. There's
also a group of four dudes who work in office who
are on that weird Tumblr swag, wearing goofy stuff
like motorcycle helmets and Power Rangers costumes to the office even when it's not casual Friday. I can't ever get any work done, because every
time I get in a writing groove, they blast that damn
Baauer song and thinly concealed crotch is writhing in my face to the tune of "Harlem Shake." And
don't even let me tell you about the creepy dude
from Seattle who just hangs around the office cafeteria with a well-endowed horse on a rein and
his pants at his ankles. These people aren't men
you want to get sartorial tips from. They're maniacs,
degenerates, who can barely dress themselves, let
alone function in social situations without covering
their faces in feces, filming it, and uploading it to
YouTube for hits.
Unmissable and new to New York: Sleep No More
at the McKitrick Hotel, and any of their secret pop
up speakeasys. 530 W 27th St, New York
&
NEW YORK
Ben Burkman, Burkman Bros
Sushi Gari on the Upper West Side offer super fresh, high-quality fish prepared by master chefs. Try the salmon
sushi with warm tomato on top - it’s
delicious!
370 Columbus Ave, New York 10024
See Han Kjobenhavn at Capsule Paris, and New York.
Luca Venezia also known as the DJ Drop the Lime
and artist Curses, gives us reason to love the NY
nightlife scene again. @cursesforever
B
BERGEN
Iben Bergstrøm, Kaibosh
I love to get together with my friends
and have Sunday brunch at Nobel
Bopel, a small and charming cafè with
a retro vibe at Møhlenpris. Make sure
to show up early, their brunch is very
popular.
Welhavens gate 64, 5006 Bergen
I've been working at the internet for like three years
now, and I have to say, it is a complete shithole.
Anytime I'm not getting paid by the man to pulverize my fingers into the keyboard, I try to stay as far
away from it is as possible. Beside the carpal tunnel,
I avoid the internet because most of the content on
it is made by mentally disturbed people that belong in black leather, asymmetrical straight jackets.
Which is why I was a little perplexed when I was
asked to write a piece for the Capsule newspaper
that would tell dudes the best places to go to get
fashion advice on the net. Trust me when I say that
you should NEVER, under any circumstance, get ANY
advice from the internet—especially not on fashion.
The only thing the internet is good for is keeping Studio Visit: Han Kjøbenhavn, Copenhagen
Jergens in business and providing the world with a They’ve been on a roll since they opened up their
first store in Copenhagen in 2012. Jannik Wikkelsø
steady stream of Kanye West rants.
Davidsen, 32, and Tim Faith Hancock, 33 founded Han Kjøbenhavn in 2008. Now they have two
stores and 13 employees, their casual urban clothes
are sold to 300 stores worldwide.
“We started with glasses, as it was closely related to
the Danish architecture and furniture design that
we love. It’s timeless,” says Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen
about the bestselling frames, in their spacious Copenhagen studio. ”Then came the clothes. It’s about
making the things that we love ourselves,” notes
Tim Faith. “We wanted to create something where
brand, product, quality, wrapping, everything had
a unique and creative DNA,” he says, as Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen chimes in. “I don’t think there are a
lot of clothing brands with an all-round high level
of quality out there. You really need to be aware of
everything to create a brand. Clothes are superficial, so you need to be creative in anything you do.”
—Moussa Mchangama.
Favorite touristy thing to do in NY: Take the ferry
to the Statue of Liberty while the sun sets.
U
BERLIN
Jonathan Paskowitz, Lightning Bolt
Zur Letzten Instanz offers the best
schnitzel I have ever had. They say
it’s the oldest place in Berlin, from the
1600s. All I know is that it’s rude to
order two schnitzels at once for yourself. Just order one at a time!
Waisenstr. 14-16, Berlin, 10179
Capsule checks in with 2 great brands that
support local manufacture
Best place to be in NY at 3am: Leaving in a taxi to
hit the after-hours.
O
TOKYO
Masaya Kuroki, Maison Kitsune
In my hometown Tokyo, my favorite
place is Happo En. A peaceful place in
the middle of a big city, the garden is
really cool, you can enjoy the beauty
of Japanese tradition in any seasons.
Their tea house is amazing!
1-1-1 Shirokanedai, Minato-Ku,
Tokyo 108 8631
by Wilbert L. Cooper of VICE Magazine
New York Insider—
Luca Venezia
R
Capsule designers suggest underthe-radar places to visit around the
world.
Locally Grown
T
L
ES
AL FAV
C
O
Never Trust the Internet
cursesforever.com
soundcloud.com/cursesforever
twitter.com/cursesforever
facebook.com/cursesforever
PAUL’S BABY GRAND //// Paul Sevigny’s new hotspot is being heralded
as the new Beatrice Inn.
2 Avenue of the Americas, New York
SUBJECT //// Elaborate cocktails and
plain old PBRs are both the stars at
this tiny hangout spot. 188 Suffolk St,
New York subject-les.com
BPMW Showroom
at Capsule
BPMW is also representing A\W 14 collections by...
In addition to its regular roster of brands, BPMW will proudly
offer presentations from two incredible Tokyo-based brands at
Capsule New York Men’s. Both will be making their New York market debuts.
BEDWIN AND THE HEARTBREAKERS
Industry vet Masafumi "Bebetan" Watanabe founded Bedwin
and the Heartbreakers in Fall 2004 and since then, the brand
has risen through the ranks of Japanese sportswear and picked
up a cult following of loyal watchers around the world via the
#menswear internets. Known for subtly freaking American sportswear staples, a sophisticated take on basics and a signature
high level of quality production and finish, Bedwin is in-the-know
style meets function.
Cash CA—Covetable quality with tons of fashion creed. Elka—With materials fit for a construction worker but
British heritage, Japanese style. See them at NY Men’s designed by Norse Projects, Elka's fashion collection is
& Las Vegas.
style perfection. See them at NY Men’s & Las Vegas.
NEIGHBORHOOD
The New Kids
Stop by and say hi to these Capsule newbies
NATIVE YOUTH
Based in: England Known for: Eccentric British design with a focused and unique design aesthetic. AW14 Highlights: Updated
classics—such as the lightweight fisherman jacket. See them at:
Paris, New York, Las Vegas /////// native-youth.com
COMMON CUT
Based in: Portugal Known for: Contemporary footwear made in
Portugal AW14 Highlights: architectural inspirations. See them
at: Capsule New York /////// commoncut.com
PROSPEKT SUPPLY
Based in: New York Known for: Their first ever piece, an anorak
dubbed "Product No. 1: Windbreaker"—dubbed "the Mercedes
Benz of Packable Windbreakers" by GQ. AW14 Highlights: A series of quarter and full zip moleskin and twill jackets, as well as a
full zip version of Product No. 1. All entirely crafted in Vancouver.
See them at: Capsule Las Vegas /////// prospektsupply.com
AMBASSADORS BY VERGINIA
Based in: Japan Known for: Minimal design footwear and
sneakers. AW14 Highlights: Tons of texture featuring wool, calf
hair, velvet, and mouton. See them at: Capsule New York
UNBRANDED
Based in: Montreal Known for: Jeans that offer a great fit, solid
construction and top quality selvedge denim. No celebrities or
marketing. AW14 Highlights: Introducing black chinos this season See them at: Capsule New York, Las Vegas
/////// theunbrandedbrand.com
NOBLE DENIM
Based in: Cincinnati Known for: Durable, classic menswear staples made in North America using environmentally conscious
methods. AW14 Highlights: Jeans, shirt jackets See them at:
Capsule New York /////// nobledenim.com
AVEC
Based in: Nørrebro Known for: Time will tell...AW14 Highlights:
Fashions inspired by space migration, intelligence increase and
life extension. See them at: Capsule Berlin, Paris, and New York.
/////// avecstasy.com
ADIDAS ORIGINALS
Based in: Herzogenaurach Known for: A luxe take on the adidas lifestyle. AW14 Highlights: Adidas shell parka—a 2.5-layer
herringbone parka with functional seamsealing tapes on all
inside seams; bonded chest pocket with seasonal Russian red
dawn camo print. See them at: Capsule Berlin, Paris, New York,
Las Vegas /////// adidas.com
JEROME DREYFUSS HOMME
Based in: Paris Known for: Sophisticated and practical accessories. AW14 Highlights: Combining canvas and leathers, playing
mix and match with colors/textures. See them at: Capsule New
York /////// jerome-dreyfuss.com
STOW & SON
Based in: Madrid Known for: Handsewn, sustainable footwear
made from premium materials from Spain and Portugal: vegetable tanned full-grain leather, premium suede, natural cork
footbeds, natural crepe soles. AW14 highlights: Solid motorcycle boots, suitable for wearing both on and off the bike.
See them at: Capsule Paris and New York //// stowandson.com
Motorcycle and custom car culture, London streetwear and rock
and roll are among cornerstone inspirations for NEIGHBORHOOD, one of Japan’s most OG and well-respected streetwear
brands. While newbies may just be getting turned on to all that
the Ura-hara scene has to offer menswear, make no mistake—
NEIGHBORHOOD, the brainchild of founder/designer Shinsuke
Takizawa, has been doing it well since 1994. Often imitated and
highly coveted, this is the real deal.
10
B
Gloverall—An ever-evolving range of outerwear, fitted Headporter—Bags and accessories of inimitable style
to the modern man with a traditional approach.
from Japan that drive the in-the-know fans wild.
See them at NY Men’s & Las Vegas.
See them at NY Men’s.
Mark McNairy New Amsterdam—Taking classic Ameri- Norse Projects—Pared-down essentials of impeccable
can menswear staples and turning them on their heads. quality and quiet good taste. The Danish aesthetic at it's
See them at NY Men’s & Las Vegas.
best. See them at NY Men’s & Las Vegas.
Penfield—Archival inspired designs and time-honored Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen—Where fashion-forfabrics, Penfield was created for the outdoor lifestyle. ward and basic, trendy and timeless, aspirational and
See them at NY Men’s & Las Vegas.
accessible collide. See them at NY Men’s & Las Vegas.
P
YEARS OF
MAKING
FASHION HAPPEN
C
M
@bpmwagency
W
ü
ü
ü
ü
Digital marketing
Social media
Public relations
Sales
ü
ü
ü
ü
Runway shows
Event production
Branding
Consulting
bpmw—agency.com
ANKS!
H
T
On a chilly weekend in December, Capsule opened
its doors to the public for the very first time with
Capsule Market Square—a Holiday Pop Up shop.
Our photographer captured all the action.
#capsulemarketsquare
Capsule Dates
& Locations
Tutu's × Stoli Pop Up
At Capsule
New York Mens Jan 21 & 22
We’ve invited Tutu’s—one of our favorite hangouts
in Bushwick to set up shop again this season and
they’re creating some amazing cocktail using Stoli
vodka. Stop by the bar daily around 5pm and get
happy! @tutusbrooklyn.com @stoli
Basketball City
299 South St (at Montgomery St)
Las Vegas Feb 17—19
The Venetian, 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd
Basketball City
299 South St (at Montgomery St)
Paris Womens Feb 28—Mar 2
NEW VENUE—Tapis Rouge
67 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
Register to attend at capsuleshow.com
Strike A POSE!
Guidebook On-the-go
We’ve gone digital! Our beautiful printed guidebooks are now a thing of the past. We’re all future
forward and all of our exhibitor information and
imagery can be found in an online directory at capsuleshow.com. And hey, we’ve got an app for that
too. Download it now to stay in touch with all your
favorite Capsule brands.
The Motley Presents
SUN DRI ES
JAN
21—22
Explore new sundries, get a trim with
Fellow Barber, grab a drink in the lounge.
Complimentary samples while supplies last.
Featuring…Buckler's, CB I Hate Perfume, Fellow Barber,
Imperial Barber Products, Lafco, Land by Land,
Port Products, Recipe for Men, Ursa Major
#capsulesundries @capsuleshow @themotley
299 South St (at Montgomery St)
A selection of fine
grooming & apothecary brands
Capsule New York Men’s
New York Womens Feb 22—24
Create an Instagrammable moment with our photo
booth partner, POSE on the upper level. Snap some
pictures in the Pose photo booth and make this
Capsule one you’ll never forget. poseypose.com
Catch A Ride With Uber
Let us offer you a ride to or from Capsule in a private car. We’ve partnered with Uber—the on-demand car service that works via an app on your
smartphone. Just download the Uber app, enter
your personal information, and the code CapsuleNYC14. Drop a pin on your location and request
a pickup on your device. You’ll be notified by text
when your driver has arrived. New Uber users receive $25 off NYC.
Gram it.
@capsuleshow.com
#capsuleshow
#viveladifference
#roadtocapsule