chapter four whipping and splicing

CHAPTER FOUR
WHIPPING AND SPLICING
0401
Whipping
West Country Whipping.
Sailmakers Whipping
Common Whipping
Palm and Needle Whipping
0402
Splicing
Tools and equipment for Splicing
Types of Splice in the syllabus
Dogging
Back Splice - Hawser laid rope
Soft Eye Splice - Hawser laid rope
Short Splice - Hawser laid rope
Hard Eye Splice - Hawser laid rope
Seized Thimble eye
Soft Eye Splice - 8 Stranded Multi-plait rope
Soft Eye Splice - Braided Rope
0401
WHIPPING
A Whipping is the binding round the bare end of a rope to prevent the strands from
unlaying. It should be applied as taut as possible throughout the whipping, this will
prevent it from slipping off and prolong its life. Seaming or roping twine is used when the
rope is not too large, and small stuff is used on a large rope. When whipping man-made
fibre ropes use a man-made twine instead of natural fibre twine, this will avoid burning
the whipping if the end is heat sealed. The whipping should be about equal to
approximately one-and-a-half times the diameter of the rope. Care should be taken
when trimming the rope's end not to cut too close to the whipping to avoid cutting
through the whipping.
0401.1
West Country Whipping
This whipping is the easiest to do and can be applied to any type of rope or part of the
rope. Middle the twine on the rope in the required position, pass the two ends round the
rope in opposite directions and tie a half hitch; pass them round the rope and tie another
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half hitch opposite the first one on the other side; now bring the ends up and half hitch
them again, continuing in this manner, making half hitches every half turn so that the half
hitches lie alternately on opposite sides of the rope. Finish with a reef knot.
0401.2
Sailmakers Whipping.
This whipping is the most secure however it can only be used on hawser laid rope. It is
ideally suited to the end of a rope but can be applied in the bight when the rope has
been carefully unlayed then layed back up again. Care should be taken not to let the
strands unlay.
Unlay the end of the rope for about 50mm and hold it in the left hand pointing upwards,
with the middle strand farthest away. Make a bight in the twine about 200mm long and
pass this bight over the middle strand only, with the two ends towards you. With the
bight of the twine hanging down the back of the rope and the ends pointing down in
front, lay up the rope with the right hand. Leave the short end of the twine where it is
and, with the long end, pass the turns of the whipping, working towards the end of the
rope and against the lay. When sufficient turns are on, take the bight of twine, pass it
outside the whipping, following the lay of the strand around where it was originally put,
and pass it over the strand where it will come out at the end of the rope. Now haul
carefully on the short end so as to tighten the bight, then bring this end up outside the
whipping, again following the lay of the rope, then tie the two ends with a reef knot in the
middle of the rope and out of sight. Leave a short end then trim the ends of the rope
taking care not to cut through the reef knot.
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0401.3
Common Whipping
This can be applied to any type of rope, is ideally suited to the end of the rope however,
it can be applied to the bight of a rope. The longer the ropes end the greater the difficulty
it is to work. Place the end of the twine along the rope (I); pass the turns of twine against
the lay, working towards the end of the rope, and haul each turn taut. At a halfway point,
lay the other end of the twine along the rope (ii), then pass the remaining turns over it,
taking the bight of the twine over the end of the rope with each turn. Care should be
taken as the twine will begin to twist. When the whipping has reached the required
length (iii) haul the second end of the twine through the turns until tight. Trim off loose
ends. If the twine has twisted during the turns care should be taken when hauling the
second end through.
An alternative finish, which can be used when the whipping is on the bight of the rope, is
to take the last three or four turns loosely over one finger and pass the end back through
them. Work the turns taut and haul the end through and taut in the normal way.
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0401.4
Palm and Needle Whipping
This is a neat and more permanent method by applying a whipping using a sailmakers
palm and needle. When complete its appearance is similar to the Sailmakers Whipping.
It is ideally suited for use with Braided Man-made Fibre Ropes where a stronger, more
secure whipping may be required.
0402
SPLICING
Splicing is a method of joining the ends of two ropes together, or of making an eye in the
end of a rope, by interlocking the strands. Unless otherwise stated it should be accepted
that all splices reduce the strength of a rope by one-eighth. It is important therefore to
ensure that all splices are completed as tight as possible not only to retain strength, but
to ensure that in the event of the rope getting wet that water is absorbed less easily.
Care should be taken when un-laying any hawser laid rope to ensure that the yarns are
disturbed as little as possible; when tucking the strands they should be twisted in the
direction of their lay to regain their former tightness.
Basic Principles: Use natural fibre twine with natural fibre rope and man-made twine
with man-made rope if it is to remain on the rope.
A small whipping or stopper applied prior to un-laying the strands will
ensure that the first tuck of the splice will sit tight against the standing
part.
Make three tucks with natural fibre cordage and five tucks with manmade cordage.
Avoid kinking the rope when tucking. With new rope use a fid to open
up the strands.
Always finish the splice by dogging the ends, do not cut of the strand
ends as these will unlay in due course. (Tapering and serving are an
alternative way to finish the splice but are not included in the Sea
Cadet Syllabus).
There are a number of different principles that have to be adopted with man-made fibre,
hawser laid rope, compared to natural fibre rope.
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The fibres and strands should be disturbed as little as possible. Each strand should be
marled or taped up every 50mm along its length to maintain its form (it has a tendency to
unlay very quickly and work loose). Firm whippings of twine (or tape) must be used and
the ends of the strands must be heat fused.
0402.1
Tools and Equipment for Splicing
A sharp knife, seaming twine or other sailmakers twine, pvc insulating tape or masking
tape (paper masking tape is best), a fid, (a pointed wooden spike made of hardwood)
are the basics required for splicing. A hot knife, candle or butane burner will be required
to heat seal man-made fibre rope.
Other tools such as a Swedish Fid may be available, this has a channel down which to
run the tucking strand whilst the standing strand is being held open, and for splicing
braidline (a more advanced splice) hollow fids or hooks are required.
0402.2
0402.3
Types of Splice (In the Syllabus)
Back Splice
This is used for finishing the end of a rope, which is not required to be
rove through a block or any eyed fitting. It prevents the end from unlaying.
Eye Splice
A soft eye splice is used for making a permanent eye in the end of a
rope.
Hard Eye Splice
A soft eye with a thimble spliced in it. Used to prevent unnecessary
wear when a metal object e.g. a shackle, continually comes in contact
with the rope.
Short Splice
This is used to join two ropes that are not required to pass through a
block or any eyed fitting.
Dogging
This is a method of finishing splices made in all types of hawser laid rope and multi-plait
man- made rope. The end of strands are secured to prevent the splices from unlaying.
With three stranded rope, having completed the required number of tucks, split the
strands in half then marry one half to the adjoining one over the top of the standing
strand and twist up tight. Apply a West Country whipping round both strands.
A Tip: (This will prevent the whipping from being pulled off).
Before commencing the whipping, pass the twine under the standing strand
where it is to be applied, middle up the twine then cross the ends; take the ends
round the strands in opposite directions and tie an overhand knot, pushing it
down as close to the standing strand as possible, hauling the twine taut Bring the
ends round to the front and tie another overhand knot, then complete the
whipping to the required length.(Use the same number of turns on each of the
west country whippings to ensure that they are all the same size).
Having completed dogging each of the strands, with a sharp knife carefully trim the ends
ensuring to take care not to cut too close to the whipping.
When dogging eight stranded, multi-plait rope, whole strands are married and whipped
using a West Country whipping.
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0402.4
Back Splice - Hawser laid rope
a. Apply a short whipping or stopper at a distance from its end equal to 20 times
the diameter of the rope, then unlay the strands to the stop. Whip the ends of
each strand. (Competent splicers may choose to omit this practice).
b. Make a Crown Knot and work this tight up against the whipping or stopper (i).
c. Cut off the whipping/stopper and then tuck each strand over one strand and
under the next, to the left and against the lay of the rope (ii). After each strand
is tucked, twist and pull each strand taut until each strand is uniform. Repeat
the tucks twice more until three full tucks have been made (iii).
d. Complete the splice by Dogging the ends.
0402.5
Soft Eye Splice - Hawser laid rope
a. Whip the rope at a distance from its end equal to 20 times the diameter of the
rope, then unlay it to the whipping. Whip the ends of each strand. (Competent
splicers may choose to omit this practice).
b. Decide on the size of the eye required (the crown and the start point on the
standing part may be marked), and bend the rope to make the eye, with the
whipping level to the start point. The middle and left strands should be on top of
the rope. Care should be taken so as not to put a twist in the rope.
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c. Tuck the middle strand (A), from right to left, under the nearest strand on the
standing part.
d. Tuck the left hand strand (B), under the next strand on the standing part.
e. Turn the rope over so as to bring the right hand strand (C) on top, then tuck the
strand from right to left under the unoccupied strand on the standing part. (This
will provide a locking strand for the splice).
f.
Starting with the right hand strand, twist and pull each of the strands taut; then
continue tucking twice more until three full tucks have been made.
g. Complete the splice by dogging the ends.
0402.6
Short Splice - Hawser laid rope
a. Whip each rope at a distance from its end equal to 20 times the diameter of the
rope. (This whipping has been omitted from one rope in the diagram).
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If a small whipping is applied this may be left in the splice, larger
whippings will have to be removed.
b. Unlay the strands to the whipping and whip their ends.
c. Marry the two ropes so that one strand of each lies between two strands of the
other (i).
d. Ensure both whippings are married as tightly as possible. (A whipping may be
applied round the join to prevent them slipping). Stop the ends to one rope, (in
the diagram ends C,D, & E to rope B - not shown in diagram).
e. Remove a large whipping then commence tucking over one strand and under
another. (In the diagram (ii) strands F over C, under E, then G over E, under D,
then H over D, under C). Remove the stop and tuck the strands on the opposite
side ensuring that the strands are twisted and pulled tight to ensure a close
join. Complete three full tucks on each side then complete the splice by
dogging all strands.
0402.7
Hard Eye Splice - Hawser laid rope
(Often referred to as a Thimble Eye). The thimble eye is formed by fitting and splicing
the end of a rope round a thimble, the splice holding the thimble in place. It is important
therefore to ensure that the thimble is the correct size and the splice is as tight as
possible to prevent the thimble from falling out.
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a. Whip the rope and unlay it to the whipping, then whip the ends of the strands.
b. Form the eye round the thimble with the whipping near to the neck of the
thimble. Apply a stop (or constrictor knot) to hold the thimble in place: apply a
second stop at the crown of the thimble ensuring that the rope has been kept
taut; then apply a third stop at the opposite neck.
c. Commence tucking the strands in exactly the same way as for the soft eye
splice. When the first tuck is completed for all three strands, twist and haul
each strand as taut as possible then continue with the remaining tucks.
d. Remove the stops from around the thimble. If the splice has been completed
correctly the thimble will be firmly gripped, if it is not, it is best to start again.
e. Complete the splice by dogging the ends as normal.
0402.8
Seized Thimble Eye
This is an alternative to the thimble eye and is just as efficient. It is ideal for converting a
soft eye to a hard eye and then allows for the thimble to be easily removed or replaced.
The soft eye splice needs to be larger than the thimble. When the thimble has been
inserted and stopped in place, a flat seizing is applied to seize the thimble in as tight as
possible. When required to remove the thimble to revert to a soft eye the seizing is
simply removed.
This method may be used on all types of rope including wire rope.
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0402.9
Soft Eye Splice - 8 stranded Multi-plait rope
a. Make a throat seizing at a distance from its end of approximately 20 times the
diameter of the rope (point of splice), then unlay the strands. (Ends may be
whipped)
b. Marry pairs of Z strands (right hand lay) and pairs of S strands (left hand lay),
making four pairs in all. The ends may be whipped or taped together.
c. Commence the tucking sequence by passing pairs of Z strands under the
nearest convenient pair of Z-lay strands in the standing part of the rope,
followed by the adjacent pair of S strands, tucked under the pair of S-lay
strands of the rope unoccupied adjacent to the Z lay. (Fig i).
d. Turn the rope over and repeat with the remaining pairs of strands until the first
full tuck with paired strands is complete. (Fig ii).
e. Divide all four pairs of Z and S strands and tuck these strands singly, one S
strand under one S strand in the standing part and one Z strand under one Z
strand in the standing part (Fig iii). Complete this tucking sequence for four
tucks thus giving a total of five tucks to the splice (Fig iv).
f.
Finally complete the splice by dogging the ends (Fig v).
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0402.10 Soft Eye Splice - Braided rope
This splice if completed correctly will return 95% of the strength of the rope.
a. Cut off the heat sealed end and push back the outer case exposing 10cms of
inner core. Holding the end of the case to the core, push back the slack for
about 1 metre. (An overhand knot can be tied to prevent the slack recovering).
b. Bend the rope and measure 30cms from the end of the case and mark (A) then
mark (B) to the size of the eye required.
c. With Swedish fid or pricker, open the case at mark (B) by lifting the strands
making a small hole through which the inner core can be seen, then hook out
the inner core. Pull out the core completely and the rope appears to have two
tails. Pass a piece of tape around the inner core at point (C), then taper the end by removing
50% of the yarns. The end may be taped.
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d. Insert the splicing needle at a position 35cms from (B), taking care not to
ensnare the inner core, push the needle down inside the outer case until if
emerges at (A). Thread the tapered end into the eye of the needle.
e. Pull the splicing needle through the case and keep pulling until the eye has
formed and the end of the inner core has emerged. Now push back some of
the loose case in the outer cover towards the eye ready for the next stage of
the splice.
f.
Unpick and cut out 6 yarn ends approximately 5cms from the eye end of the
outer case tail. Insert the splicing needle 20cms from the neck of the eye and
push through, exiting at point (B). Thread the outer cover tail then pull this
through the middle of the rope.
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g. The splice should now have the outer cover tail and the inner core tail
emerging from different positions (and preferably on different sides). Pull
everything tight and give the splice a good snatch to bed the yarns down then
trim the ends with a sharp knife. Finally run a hand over the outer cover from
the eye end down until the cut ends disappear inside the rope.
h. If a thimble is required this can be inserted while the eye is being formed and
before the ends are pulled tight.
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Option Two
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Stitch and Whip Method
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