- Marc de Grazia Selections

Transcription

MARC DE GRAZIA SELECTIONS
FINE WINES FROM THE GREAT CRUS OF ITALY
ESTABLISHED 1980
2016
THE WINES OF ITALY
In Italy we have over 2,400 different wines - both the largest wine production and greatest spectrum of diversity in the world. France
classified its growths into a hierarchy of crus over a century ago, and did so with remarkable talent and exactitude. We still have not done
so, and have only our D.O.C. – our own “appéllation d’origine” - or our stricter D.O.C.G. to guide the wine world towards the appreciation
of our great wines. It is patently not enough. In fact, the D.O.C.G. alone generates confusion; for example, one may taste Chianti wines
of such boggling diversity that one wonders at the significance of an appellation that groups them all together. Moreover, more often than
not, the laws governing the production of D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines hinder rather than help the imaginative and talented producer.
Thus, many quality-oriented wine-makers have started making truly remarkable wines disregarding the D.O.C. laws. But alongside these
we also have unscrupulous estates who, wanting to ride this highly esteemed “nouvelle vague”, have given us uninteresting wines at best.
Furthermore, non-D.O.C. wines can only adopt proprietary names which are too often unknown. Thus, to the wine-lover both at home and
abroad, the picture becomes all the more complex and nebulous. I should like to dissipate some of this confusion, to offer a direction. I am
only interested in wines of outstanding quality. This does not mean only in the greatest wines, but also in “petits vins” of unusual character
– pure wines that in their own class, and in their own right, are the best that one can possibly find. For, just as one would not drink great
Bordeaux or top flight Burgundy daily, so one would not drink Barolo or Brunello on an everyday basis - while one ought to still demand
and obtain very good wine with every meal.
To find a great wine one must first find a great cru. And although the Italian government has not classified them in any comprehensive way,
the hundreds of years of trial and error in our vineyards, and the results that unequivocally followed, have. With a careful but also critical
eye towards tradition and the experience that grows out of tasting and research, I have made my own classifications. My selections offer
them to you.
Secondly - as a wine does not make itself - one must find a great wine-maker. And I pride myself on my collaborator-friends, whom I repute
to be among the finest in Italy. They are the living matter of my selections.
Finally, perhaps my greatest pride has been the resuscitation of once great and famous appellations and their wines. To return dignity and
pride to winemaking in Frascati, Valpolicella, Soave and Verdicchio; to help produce extremely fine wine where the will to do so had been
systematically crushed by the mega-coop and industrial mentality, and the legislature that fostered and protected it. Please give these wines
a try, and I’m sure you will be captured by the self-same excitement and pleasure that captivated the multitudes that once made these wines
deservedly among the most famous in the world.
◊
THE ESTATES OF
Aldo & Riccardo Seghesio
Paolo Conterno
Bussia Soprana
Renato Corino
Silvio Grasso
PIEDMONT
Fratelli Revello
Carlo Revello
Mario Marengo
Luigi Pira & Figli
Moccagatta
Albino Rocca
Malabaila
La Morandina
Francesco Boschis
Stefano Massone
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
La Cadalora
Viticoltori Alto Adige
Kӧfererhof
Falkenstein
Putzenhof
LIGURIA
Giacomelli
EMILIA ROMAGNA
Poderi Fiorini
MARCHE
Boccadigabbia
Bisci
Le Terrazze
Tavignano
Villa Ligi
TUSCANY
Uccelliera
San Filippo
Podere Brizio
Scopetone
Le Potazzine
G. Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto
Il Palazzino
Monterotondo
Dievole
Lucignano
Ambra
Dei
Fontaleoni
Le Calcinaie
Casa di Terra
ABRUZZO
Filomusi Guelfi
PUGLIA
Santa Lucia
Masserie Pizari
CALABRIA
Calabretta
SARDINIA
Mura
UMBRIA
Pardi
VENETO
Cavalchina
Gini
Tamellini
Roberto Mazzi
Vigneti di Ettore
Cantine U. Bortolotti
LAZIO
Lorenzo Costantini
SICILY
Terre Nere
Cuppari
Le Vigne di Eli Ferrandes
Centonze
CAMPANIA
Salvatore Molettieri Cantina del Taburno
Antonio Caggiano
De Angelis
Benito Ferrara
Iovine
Colli di Lapio
108
110
112
114
116
PARDI 120
LORENZO COSTANTINI 124
SANTA LUCIA 148
MASSERIE PIZARI 150
CALABRETTA 154
TERRE NERE
LE VIGNE DI ELI
CENTONZE
CUPPARI
FERRANDES
158
160
162
164
166
MURA 170
CHAMPAGNE ENCRY (FRANCE) 172
ABRUZZO 126
CAMPANIA 130
PUGLIA 146
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE 78
VENETO 90
132
134
136
138
140
142
144
CALABRIA 152
BOCCADIGABBIA
BISCI
LE TERRAZZE
TAVIGNANO
VILLA LIGI
SALVATORE MOLETTIERI
ANTONIO CAGGIANO
BENITO FERRARA
COLLI DI LAPIO
CANTINA DEL TABURNO
DE ANGELIS
IOVINE
SICILY 156
PODERI FIORINI 104
MARCHE 106 EMILIA ROMAGNA 102
GINI 92
TAMELLINI 94
ROBERTO MAZZI 96
CAVALCHINA 98
PRENDINA, TORRE D’ORTI 99
CANTINE U. BORTOLOTTI 100
FILOMUSI GUELFI 128
SARDINIA 168
GIACOMELLI 76
80
82
84
86
88
UMBRIA 118
46
48
50
52
54
56
58
60
62
64
66
68
70
72
LA CADALORA
VITICOLTORI ALTO ADIGE
KÖFERERHOF
FALKENSTEIN
PUTZENHOF
LAZIO 122
UCCELLIERA
SAN FILIPPO
PODERE BRIZIO
SCOPETONE
LE POTAZZINE
GIANNI BRUNELLI
IL PALAZZINO
MONTEROTONDO
DIEVOLE
LUCIGNANO
AMBRA
DEI
FONTALEONI
LE CALCINAIE
PIEDMONT 12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
34
36
38
40
42
TUSCANY 44
A. & R. SEGHESIO
BUSSIA SOPRANA
PAOLO CONTERNO
RENATO CORINO
SILVIO GRASSO
FRATELLI REVELLO
CARLO REVELLO
MARIO MARENGO
LUIGI PIRA & FIGLI
MOCCAGATTA
ALBINO ROCCA
MALABAILA
LA MORANDINA
FRANCESCO BOSCHIS
STEFANO MASSONE
LIGURIA 74
VIGNETI DI ETTORE 8
CASA DI TERRA 10
NEW ARRIVALS 6
C O N T E N T S
TYPE OF VITICULTURE
INTEGRATED / SUSTAINABLE
Albino Rocca - Piedmont
Antonio Caggiano - Campania
Benito Ferrara - Campania
Boccadigabbia - Marche
Bortolotti - Veneto
Cantina del Taburno - Campania
Casa di Terra - Tuscany
Cavalchina - Veneto
Colli di Lapio - Campania
Cuppari - Sicily
De Angelis - Campania
Dei - Tuscany
Falkenstein - Trentino Alto Adige
Filomusi Guelfi - Abruzzo
Fratelli Pardi - Umbria
Fratelli Revello - Piedmont
Carlo Revello - Piedmont
Giacomelli - Liguria
Gianni Brunelli-Le Chiuse di Sotto - Tuscany
Iovine - Campania
Kӧfererhof - Trentino Alto Adige
Le Terrazze - Marche
Lorenzo Costantini - Lazio
Lucignano - Tuscany
Marengo - Piedmont
Masserie Pizari - Puglia
Mura - Sardinia
Paolo Conterno - Piedmont
Pira - Piedmont
Prendina - Veneto
Putzenhof - Trentino Alto Adige
Renato Corino - Piedmont
Roberto Mazzi - Veneto
Salvatore Molettieri - Campania
Scopetone - Tuscany
Seghesio - Piedmont
Silvio Grasso - Piedmont
S. Massone - Piedmont
Tamellini - Veneto
Uccelliera - Tuscany
Viticoltori Alto Adige - Trentino Alto Adige
PRACTICING ORGANIC
Bussia Soprana - Piedmont
Ferrandes - Sicily
Francesco Boschis - Piedmont
La Cadalora - Trentino Alto Adige
La Morandina - Piedmont
Le Potazzine - Tuscany
Le Vigne di Eli - Sicily
Vigneti di Ettore - Veneto
IN THE CONVERSION PHASE TO CERTIFIED ORGANIC
Ambra - Tuscany
Bisci - Marche
Dievole - Tuscany
Fontaleoni - Tuscany
Moccagatta - Piedmont
Podere Brizio - Tuscany
Fiorini - Emilia Romagna
Santa Lucia - Puglia
Tenuta di Tavignano - Marche
Torre d’Orti - Veneto
Villa Ligi - Marche
CERTIFIED ORGANIC
Calabretta - Calabria
Centonze - Sicily
Gini - Veneto
Le Calcinaie
Monterotondo - Tuscany
Podere Il Palazzino
San Filippo - Tuscany
Tenuta delle Terre Nere - Sicily
OTHER
Malabaila - Piedmont (low environmental impact)
Champagne Encry - France (practicing biodynamic)
For more detailed information please consult our website or the QR code at the page of each producer
NEW ARRIVALS
6
VENETO
TUSCANY
7
Azienda Agricola
Veneto
The estate was established in 1930, but the grapes started being vinified in 2011. Ettore Righetti, the owner and manager, was
the Director and President of Cantina di Negrar, a cooperative. Ettore is supported by his grandson Gabriele, who will shortly
finish his studies in oenology.
The 5 hectares of vineyards stand on the hills of Negrar, within the Valpolicella Classica zone, at an altitude between 250 and
400 meters above sea level. The vineyards are divided into two plots, on the western slope and on the eastern slope of the valley
of Negrar, one with a south-west exposure and one with a south-east exposure. The soil is quite varied: alluvial, basaltic tuff of
volcanic origin and clayey. All the soils are skeletal, a characteristic that makes the wines very flavourful, fresh and elegant. The
vineyards are planted with the traditional and indigenous varieties of Valpolicella: Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina,
Molinara, Pelara, Oseleta. The vines are between 15 and 40 years old.
The total average production is 40,000 bottles and the complete range of Valpolicella wines is produced: Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Valpolicella Classico DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso
Classico Superiore. A Rosso Veronese IGT - a blend of 60% Corvina ,30% Croatina, 10% Rondinella – completes the range.
The harvest is carried out by hand, the grapes are placed in boxes of a capacity of 6.5 kilograms. At first the grapes for
Valpolicella Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto are picked, then the grapes for Valpolicella and the Rosso Veronese are picked.
The vineyard management is strictly environment friendly and the estate is practicing organic.
The aim of this estate is to produce “classical” wines that can express the character of these indigenous varieties and of this very
special zone. Therefore, the practices in the cellar are not invasive with a very careful use of wood. Ettore and Gabriele prefer
wines that are fresh, with a right amount of acidity which makes them pleasant to drink and able to age for a long time. They
like clean, well balanced and elegant wines.
◊
8
Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Zone: Negrar
Varietals: 40% Corvinone, 35% Corvina, 15%
Rondinella, 10% Croatina
Vineyard Ext.: 0.7 hectares
Average Prod.: 4,000 bottles
Valpolicella Classico DOC
Zone: Negrar
Varietals: 35% Corvina, 30% Corvinone,
25% Rondinella, 5% Dindarella, 5% Molinara
Valpolicella Ripasso
Classico Superiore DOC
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Negrar
50% Corvina, 25% Corvinone,
10% Croatina, 10% Rondinella,
5% Oseleta
Type of Viticulture: Practicing Organic
Zone: Negrar
Varietals: 45% Corvina, 30% Corvinone,
15% Rondinella, 10% Croatina
9
Fattoria
Tuscany
Fattoria Casa di Terra is a family run estate in the heart of Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast (Maremma).
The Fattoria was purchased in 1956 when the grandparents of the present owners moved to Maremma from the Marche.
At first mainly fruit trees and vegetables were grown, as in most of the local farms, then in the 1990s vineyards gradually started
being planted reaching 45 hectares (33 of which are within the Bolgheri DOC appellation) from the initial 3 hectares. The
present vineyards were planted in 2002, 2003, 2004, 2011 and 2013. Vineyards for an extension of 12 hectares were planted in
the area of Cecina (a nearby town on the coast) in 2006 and in 2007. An additional 3.5 hectares are being planted at the moment.
The grape varieties are mainly French, typical of Bolgheri: Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot,
Malbec, Rebo (a cross between Merlot and Teroldego), Vermentino, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
The management of the owners Giuliano and Gessica Frollani, brother and sister, is truly “hands on”. Giuliano worked for many
years as a farm contractor for the neighbouring estates and he directly follows all the agricultural operations in the vineyards and
the cellar. Gessica, who was a professional football player in the Italian “serie A” (premier league), follows the administration.
The staff is young and very motivated. Diego Mugnaini is the on-premise oenologist and agronomist. Diego has worked with the
well known oenologist Alberto Antonini and has had experience abroad in Australia and in New Zealand. Emiliano Falsini, who
consults for other estates of our portfolio, is the consultant oenologist. Stefania Brunetti and Alberto Rossi, previously employed
by one of the largest Tuscan estates, follow the marketing issues.
The vineyards are kept as a garden. In one area of the property, the rows of vineyards are perpendicular to the coast and divided
by rows of olive trees, a really beautiful sight! Specific vegetation is sown on most of the aisles and no herbicides are used.
Viticulture is strictly sustainable. The vine training system is cordon spur. The soil is typical of Bolgheri: sandy-clayey, clayey
with pebbles, red ferrous clay with sand.
The new and modern 7,500 square meter cellar is built following eco-sustainable principles and it is designed so to blend in the
landscape. There is a lot of glass in order to use natural light and the colours are soft brown and greys as the soil of Maremma.
The cellar is equipped with 107 steel vats and with 400 French oak barriques that are gradually being substituted with tonneaux.
The practices in the cellar are aimed at keeping the integrity of the wines as much as possible and the fermentation of the reds
is spontaneous.
The wines are Bolgheri DOC Rosso, Bianco and Rosato and IGT/proprietary wines. The classical wine of the estate is Bolgheri
Rosso DOC Moreccio (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah) which was included amongst the best 100 wines in
the world by Wine Spectator with the 2007 vintage. The Vermentino Bolgheri DOC is mineral, elegant and extremely pleasant,
Bolgheri DOC Mosaico (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) shows how well these French varieties have
adapted to this beautiful Tuscan terroir. The total average production is 350,000 bottles/year.
The philosophy of the estate is to produce elegant and drinkable wines that are accessible to the professional and private
customer alike.
◊
10
Vermentino Bolgheri DOC
Zone: Bolgheri
Varietals: 85% Vermentino,
15% Sauvignon Blanc
Vineyard Ext.: 7 hectares
Bolgheri DOC Mosaico
Zone: Bolgheri
Varietals: 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet franc,
10% Petit Verdot
Average Prod.: 25,000 bottle
Bolgheri DOC Moreccio
Toscana Rosso IGT Lenaia
Zone:
Varietals:
Bolgheri
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40%
Merlot, 10% Syrah
Type of Viticulture: Integrated / Sustainable
Zone: Bolgheri
Varietals: 50% Merlot, 25% Malbec,
25% Cabernet Franc
Average Prod.: 50,000
11
PIEDMONT
If Tuscany with its moderately large estates and Renaissance villas and castles may be found to be reminiscent of Bordeaux,
Piedmont, bespeckled with microscopic properties whose average vineyard is no larger than two acres, is unquestionably more
akin to Burgundy. And just as all the regions above have their own predominant varietal, so does Piedmont. For although
the Dolcetto grape is responsible for delightfully fresh and fragrant wines; and largely thanks to the producers I collaborate
with, the Barbera grape has regained its status as a very fine varietal; and while in Moscato d’Asti we have one of the world’s
most appealing aromatic dessert wines; unquestionably the Nebbiolo varietal - responsible for Barolo and Barbaresco and
concurring largely in the makeup of many other fine wines - is king in Piedmont.
At their best, Barolo and Barbaresco can match any wine the world over, and Piedmont’s reputation as the greatest red wine
region of Italy largely stems from these oenological masterpieces. Yet in the not too distant past these wines suffered a loss in
popularity easily measurable by the ignorance that surrounded them both in Italy and abroad.
This has been largely due to the vast amounts of wine on the market that have not delivered what their reputation promised.
Moreover, the obvious diversity between wines produced in virtually adjacent vineyards has naturally generated confusion with
the consumer. Clearly, legislative seriousness is demanded here, where very small, but highly diversified microclimates cry out
for a cru classification.
Furthermore, improper winemaking coupled to the general unavailability of qualified information has led to the recklessly
widespread myth that Barolo and Barbaresco are wines packed with hard tannins, virtually undrinkable before a 10 year aging
period, whereas it is largely untrue that longer aging is required of a fine Barbaresco or Barolo than it is of a fine Bordeaux.
If this myth has been at least in part dispelled and if the demanding wine drinker is requesting the wines of Piedmont more and
more, no small thanks is due to the producers with whom I have worked for over three decades, for unquestionably it was they
and few others that pioneered and paved the way to quality for all to try and follow.
That Piedmont’s climate is more tasking on red wines than any other in Italy, and that inevitably great vintages are usually less
common than one would like them to be - this is true and must be admitted. But it is certainly no more problematic than the
climates of Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Accordingly, without exceptional crus backed by very talented winemakers, demanding world class wines from Piedmont would
be asking too much. But both of these we have, and my selection stands as proof: ever since I started my selection, nearly every
year at least one new producer from Piedmont irresistibly crept in. These are talented men who have dedicated themselves, mind
and body, to produce the greatest wines possible. Most of them have very small properties, but all have the finest crus, the will
and the drive, the pride and the capacity.
Each estate that you will find described here represents, vintage after vintage, the finest effort from each respective cru.
Over three decades ago, when I first started my selections, these estates were virtually unknown. More often than not, these
estates were ridiculed for employing simple yet unheard of, and certainly unorthodox, techniques of vinification.
Today, all the estates of my selection are known the world over for their splendid wines, valued as the finest expression of their
kind. Together they embrace many of the great crus of Piedmont in all their rich diversity. Their wines are in all ways outstanding,
yet in all ways fascinatingly and remarkably different.
◊
12
Main indigenous varietals
Nebbiolo
Barbera
Dolcetto
Moscato Bianco
Arneis
Cortese
13
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
The father of Riccardo Seghesio bought the estate in 1964 after the sharecropping system ended. At the time, the core business
of the farm was livestock, grain, maize and fodder. Only a small extension of vineyards were planted with Barbera, Dolcetto and
a little Nebbiolo on a south facing slope. Over the years more vineyards were gradually added to the present extension of 9.5
hectares. The grapes were vinified at the estate and sold in bulk. Riccardo and his brother Aldo then bottled the 1990 vintage of
Barbera and Dolcetto and the 1988 vintage of Barolo La Villa for the first time.
Riccardo, after Aldo sadly passed away, is supported by his nephews Marco and Sandro, both agricultural technicians, in the
vineyards and in the cellar and by his niece Michela, a trained commercial secretary, who follows administration and accounting
issues. Beppe Caviola is the consulting oenologist and Paolo Ruaro is the consulting agronomist.
Vigneto La Villa extends for 4 hectares and is made up by various vineyards: the oldest one was planted in 1957, while the
youngest was planted in 2005. Both the Baroli of the estate stem from these plots: Barolo La Villa is made from a selection of
the oldest vines, while a Barolo “base” is made from the younger vines. The exposure is a full south, the altitude is 270 meters
above sea level, the soil is mainly tuff with a percentage of clay. Half a meter underground blue tuff can be found. Spontaneous
cover crops are left on the aisles and in autumn the aisles are tilled and the grass is worked into the soil.
The vineyards of Barbera and Dolcetto stand on north, north-east facing slopes, the altitude is the same as La Villa and the soil
is a bit richer with less tuff and more clay.
The viticultural practices follow the protocol set by the 2078/92 EU Regulation which encourages the use of low environmental
impact methods and the preservation of natural resources.
The first part of the new cellar was built in 1997 and a second part was added in 2003. It is equipped with rotary fermentors,
stainless steel vats and a bottling line. The wines rest in large Slavonian oak casks (capacity 50 hectolitres) and in French Allier
oak barriques of medium toasting.
The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are strictly spontaneous.
The harvest is extremely meticulous: the grapes are picked by members of the family and by expert workers whom the family
knows well. The clusters are carefully selected, placed in plastic boxes and immediately taken to the cellar and crushed.
Barolo La Villa stands out for its elegance. It is similar to the Baroli of Serralunga and it maintains its structure and its elegance
in the great and small vintages alike. Its tannins are supple and sweet. It is pleasant to drink as soon as it is bottled, but it can
also age beautifully for a very long time. This Barolo remains perfect even after 15-20 years and this is mainly due to the soil of
the extraordinary vineyards it is made from.
Apart from the Baroli, the other wines of the range are also outstanding: the attractive and fresh Dolcetto, the fruity and pleasant
Barbera d’Alba, the floral and spicy Barbera d’Alba La Chiesa (made from the oldest Barbera vines) and the velvety Langhe
Nebbiolo.
The philosophy of the Seghesio family is to maintain the highest quality possible in the vineyard and in the cellar and to respect
the character of the wines.
◊
14
Barolo DOCG
Zone: Monforte d’Alba
Varietal: 100% Nebbiolo
Barbera d’Alba DOC
Varietal: 100% Barbera
Dolcetto d’Alba DOC
Barolo DOCG La Villa
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Varietal: 100% Dolcetto
Cru: La Chiesa
Monforte d’Alba
La Villa
100% Nebbiolo
4 hectares
10,000 bottles
15
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Silvano Casiraghi, who owns the estate together with Guido Rossi, has been in the wine business for 45 years. Till 2011 Silvano
had a wine distribution company working with French wines and with important Italian estates, he then decided to dedicate
himself full-time to his property.
Azienda Agricola Bussia Soprana was established in 1992, when Silvano purchased holdings in the homonymous zone. In 1995
other holdings in the zone of Mosconi were added when Guido Rossi became a partner and in 1999 other vineyards standing in
the Gabutti della Bussia zone were added. At present, the vineyard extension is 22 hectares (all located within the municipality
of Monforte d’Alba) in prized crus for the production of Barolo: Colonnello, Gabutti, Mosconi and Bussia Soprana.
The Colonello cru, of an extension of 0.5 hectares, is located right in front of the homestead at 380 meters above sea level with
a south/south-west exposure, the soil is loamy. The vines are approximately 65 years old.
The vineyards of the Gabutti cru stand within the homonymous district and extend for two hectares at 380 meters above sea
level. The exposure is south/south-west. The average age of the vines is 30 years except for some parcels with 50 year old vines.
The Mosconi cru is a magnificent amphitheatre of vineyards in the Mosconi district which produces the highest quality Nebbiolo,
Barbera and Dolcetto grapes. The soil is made up of calcareous marl of Miocenic origin and it is highly alkaline. The altitude is
350-400 meters above sea level, the exposure is south. These vineyards are extremely steep with a very narrow spacing which
makes mechanisation very difficult. The average age of the vines is 50 years and the vines of some parcels are 65 years old.
The Bussia Soprana cru is a group of vineyards in the homonymous district. The soil is made up of calcareous marl of Miocenic
origin. The extension is approximately 5 hectares. The vineyards have various exposures ranging from south, south-east and
south-west. The average age of the vines is 15-50 years.
Not all of the four Baroli made from the four different crus (in the very best vintages a riserva version is also made) are released
every year: only the wine that reaches the highest quality standards is bottled.
The Baroli mature in large Allier oak casks of a capacity of 30 hectolitres in order to maintain the character of the four crus
which very much differ the one from the other. Furthermore, these wines are released on the market not after a determined period
of time, but depending on their evolution.
The estate also has vineyards in excellent locations for the production of Barbera.
Bussia Soprana is practicing organic and meticulous and natural practices are followed in the vineyards. Grape yield is low, just
5 tons/hectare, resulting in not over 1 kilogram per vine (one grape cluster). The vineyards are harvested twice so to pick the
grapes only when they are perfectly ripe.
Silvano has an incredible passion and an incredible palate for wine: he tells us that he has “bathed” in it his whole life, having
worked for top châteaux in Burgundy and in the Champagne and for famous Italian estates. Silvano also has a particular passion
for Nebbiolo and has chosen vineyards in outstanding positions. All this is reflected in the wonderful Baroli and Barbere that
we are very happy to welcome in our selection.
◊
16
Barolo DOCG Mosconi
Cru: Vigna Mosconi
Barolo DOCG
Gabutti della Bussia
Cru: Vigna Gabutti della Bussia
Vigna Mosconi
Barolo DOCG Vigna Colonnello
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Cru: Vigna Mosconi
Monforte d’Alba
Vigna Colonnello
100% Nebbiolo
0.5 hectares
3,000 bottles
17
Piedmont
Azienda Vitivinicola
Ginestra is a historical cru as, since the end of the nineteenth century, it was considered a zone where Barolo of “superior”
excellence was made. The 15 hectares belonging to this estate are located in the best position of this wonderful steep (the
gradient here is 38%!) vineyard: calcareous-clayey soil, at the optimal altitude of 300-350 meters above sea level, mainly south
exposure and a part facing south-east, the microclimate here is ideal for the perfect ripening of the clusters. What more could a
viticulturist and wine-maker want!
The azienda is not only unique because of this extraordinary vineyard, but also because it has belonged to the Conterno family
for four generations (since 1886) and because to produce the perfect Barolo has always been the aim of the family members.
Tradition is followed in the ageing cellar, still the original one, where the wines rest in large French oak casks (35 hectolitres).
Very modern equipment, instead, is found in the vinification cellar where special vertical vessels are used: they have a tank
on the upper part into which the must is pumped (from the lower section) by special pumps that “drag” the liquid without any
contact with machinery parts. Depending on the quantity of must let into the lower section of the vessel, the cap can be just wet
or punched down without mechanical devices. With this method the extraction of colour and of aromatics is very efficient and
the great character of the Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto grown at the estate is maintained.
Barolo Ginestra, also in the “riserva” version in the best vintages, is made from a strict selection of the clusters and from the
older vines. Here the maceration with the skins is long in order to favour complexity. Barolo “Riva del Bric” is made from a
vineyard on the border -“riva” in Piedmontese dialect - of the southern face of the Ginestra cru, where the vines were replanted
13 years ago. The maceration with the skins is shorter so to make the wine more “ready” when released on the market.
The Ginestra cru is unmistakable in all the wines: the evident but velvety tannins supported by a wonderful freshness (in fact
Ginestra is called “the valley of austere and long-lasting Barolo”), the unique balsamic, mineral and spicy tones, the power and
the elegance.
◊
18
Barolo DOCG Riva del Bric
Cru: Vigneto Ginestra
La Ginestra
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
A Mont
Barolo DOCG Ginestra
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Monforte d’Alba
Vigneto Ginestra
100% Nebbiolo
3 hectares
15,000 bottles
19
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
After his father’s estate was divided in 2006, Renato established his own estate in the Arborina area. The vineyards stand in the
prized La Morra crus of Rocche dell’Annunziata, Arborina and Pozzo.
The cellar is extremely modern and equipped with vinification vats with temperature control and every year 30% of the barriques
(exclusively medium toasted French oak) are replaced with new ones.
Renato is a perfectionist in the vineyards: no chemical products are sprayed, only copper and sulphur is used, grass is left on
the aisles between the rows of vines and then it is tilled into the soil in the winter, which means that no herbicides nor fertilizers
are used either. He very carefully drops fruit at the end of July and shortly before the harvest so that the clusters that are picked
are perfect. The result is certainly outstanding: the single vineyard Barbera Vigna Pozzo joins the half dozen world class wines
produced by this varietal. A wine of stunning concentration, colour and length, it displays a phenomenal complexity of flavours
and aromas.
Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is a wine whose magical elegance and finesse are unrivalled in the whole appellation and brand
the cru as the “Musigny” of Barolo.
Arborina will no doubt remain the classic it has always been. An archetypal La Morra expression in its generous flesh, it
distinguishes itself from all other surrounding crus by a touch of austerity, that tannic grip in the finish which is the trademark
of this cru.
Renato also makes a Barolo Riserva, mainly from the older vines of the Rocche vineyard, a Barolo “base”, a Dolcetto and a
Nebbiolo d’Alba .
◊
20
Barolo DOCG Arborina
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Arborina
Pozzo
Zone: La Morra
Vineyard Ext.: 1 hectare
Barolo DOCG Rocche della Annunziata
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Zone: Vezza d’Alba
La Morra
Rocche dell’Annunziata
100% Nebbiolo
0.6 hectares
3,000 bottles
21
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
It is a pleasure to visit the Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso: it is a wonderful example of a family run estate and of a perfect
synergy between the members of the family. Alessio Federico, the present owner, passed his passion and dedication to his two
sons, Paolo (a specialist in food technology) and Silvio (an agricultural technician), and has always been supported by his wife
Marilena, who is also an excellent cook! Silvio prefers to work in the vineyards while Paolo follows the work in the cellar.
The estate was established in 1927, but the whole grape production started being vinified and bottled only in mid 1980s by
Alessio Federico who took over the management from his father Silvio. Since 1980 the vineyard extension was increased from
4.5 hectares to the 14 hectares of today. The agricultural practices are strictly environment friendly.
All the Nebbiolo vineyards stand within the commune of La Morra: Bricco Luciani and Bricco Manzoni, the historical crus of
La Morra and of the estate, Annunziata Vigna Plicotti and Giachini.
The volcanic Federico, in order to enhance the character of the different plots that make up his property, releases six Baroli: in
addition to Barolo Bricco Manzoni and Barolo Bricco Luciani, he offers a traditionally made wine (forty days of maceration
with the skins and aged in large Slavonian oak casks), two single vineyard versions from the Giachini and Plicotti crus and a
Barolo made with a blend of different vineyards.
As is common with many fine crus of La Morra, Bricco Luciani and Bricco Manzoni yield soft, deep and lush Barolo, the
Manzoni having a slightly more tannic attack. In youth these Baroli display in varying depths an undercurrent of sweet oak. As
they age, they move towards a fine, cedary and plum-plump middle-age. I would say they acquire the quiet, refined, leisurely
fabric and presence of a gentleman farmer.
Federico loves to experiment and he makes Barolo Turnè as wine was made in the past with a long maceration with the skins. In
the beginning this Barolo was made for fun, but the excellent results made Federico continue the production. The 2000 vintage
was the first release of the well balanced and very fruity Barolo Plicotti. The composition of the soil of the Giachini vineyard,
being sandstone and marl/limestone, makes the homonymous Barolo particularly elegant, with a lovely nose of spices, plum and
blackberry.
The estate also produces a seductive barrel-fermented Barbera from the Fontanile vineyard, as well as a traditional juicy Barbera,
a pretty and youthful Dolcetto and two different versions of Nebbiolo.
Federico is an enthusiast and he loves his work. But Federico is also a traditionalist. “I respect my father”, Paolo tells us. “he
is a man of great integrity. He continues to be passionate about his work, he believes in it….I hope that in the future we will
be able to continue being a simple and family run estate with strong ties to its terroir…”
◊
22
Barolo DOCG
Bricco Manzoni
Zone: La Morra
Cru: Manzoni
Barolo DOCG
Turnè
Zone: La Morra
Barolo DOCG Bricco Luciani
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
La Morra
Bricco Luciani
100% Nebbiolo
1.5 hectares
6,000 bottles
Zone: La Morra
23
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Enzo and Carlo Revello take over their father’s estate in 1990: their vineyards, once belonging to the local parish, boast parcels
in the crus of Giachini, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Conca dell’Annunziata and Gattera. In 1992 the first Barolo is bottled with no
cru designation, a last minute harvest under duress and with minimal equipment. Nevertheless, the wines show the gracefulness
of the best vineyards of La Morra. This is convincing and we sell the first wines. In 1993 some grapes still need to be sold
off in order to buy barrels and other equipment, but now Carlo and Enzo are prepared, and get rewarded with a remarkable
vintage. In 1994, for the first time, the grapes from Giachini are singled out and vinified separately, resulting in the depth and
concentration typical of this cru. In 1995 the hail reduced the harvest dramatically in the Rocche vineyard, but in 1996 Revello’s
tiny parcel (just 3,000 square meters) is finally vinified on its own, immediately betraying the extreme floral notes so unique to
this Chambolle-like cru.
Well, when I met Carlo and Enzo Revello, their integrity was immediately palpable and it was clear that we really only had to
work out a few details.
Finally, Barolo Conca, first release 1997 vintage - and Barolo Gattera - first release 1999 vintage - were added. A Barolo “base”,
a Barbera “base”, a barrique aged Barbera, a Langhe Nebbiolo and a Dolcetto complete the range of wines.
Viticulture is carried out with great respect for the environment and in the cellar the wines are not filtered nor clarified. The level
of SO2 is well below the limit foreseen for organic wines.
Starting in 2016 the two brothers decided to divide the property in two: each will have 50% of the vineyards so that the
vineyard extension of each azienda will be approximately of 7-8 hectares. Enzo will keep the original homestead and
cellar, and will maintain the same name of the estate and the original logo on the labels. Carlo has purchased a new
homestead and cellar in La Morra in the Santa Maria district, his estate will be called “Carlo Revello e Figli” and the
logo on the labels will be new. This decision was mainly taken in order to favour the new generation and also in order
to be able to offer a new estate. In fact the sons of Carlo and Enzo, Erik and Simone, have both attended the “Scuola
Enologica” of Alba (school of oenology). Elena, the daughter of Enzo, has graduated in foreign languages and is now
working at the estate receiving clients and organizing tastings; Niklas, the younger son of Carlo, is studying at the Liceo
Scientifico (scientific high school). Erik, Simone, Elena and Niklas are the future of these two estates!
◊
24
Zone: La Morra
Zone: La Morra
Barolo DOCG
Zone:
La Morra
Varietal:
100% Nebbiolo
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Zone: La Morra
25
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Enzo and Carlo Revello take over their father’s estate in 1990: their vineyards, once belonging to the local parish, boast parcels
in the crus of Giachini, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Conca dell’Annunziata and Gattera. In 1992 the first Barolo is bottled with no
cru designation, a last minute harvest under duress and with minimal equipment. Nevertheless, the wines show the gracefulness
of the best vineyards of La Morra. This is convincing and we sell the first wines. In 1993 some grapes still need to be sold
off in order to buy barrels and other equipment, but now Carlo and Enzo are prepared, and get rewarded with a remarkable
vintage. In 1994, for the first time, the grapes from Giachini are singled out and vinified separately, resulting in the depth and
concentration typical of this cru. In 1995 the hail reduced the harvest dramatically in the Rocche vineyard, but in 1996 Revello’s
tiny parcel (just 3,000 square meters) is finally vinified on its own, immediately betraying the extreme floral notes so unique to
this Chambolle-like cru.
Well, when I met Carlo and Enzo Revello, their integrity was immediately palpable and it was clear that we really only had to
work out a few details.
Finally, Barolo Conca, first release 1997 vintage - and Barolo Gattera - first release 1999 vintage - were added. A Barolo “base”,
a Barbera “base”, a barrique aged Barbera, a Langhe Nebbiolo and a Dolcetto complete the range of wines.
Viticulture is carried out with great respect for the environment and in the cellar the wines are not filtered nor clarified. The level
of SO2 is well below the limit foreseen for organic wines.
Starting in 2016 the two brothers decided to divide the property in two: each will have 50% of the vineyards so that the
vineyard extension of each azienda will be approximately of 7-8 hectares. Enzo will keep the original homestead and
cellar, and will maintain the same name of the estate and the original logo on the labels. Carlo has purchased a new
homestead and cellar in La Morra in the Santa Maria district, his estate will be called “Carlo Revello e Figli” and the
logo on the labels will be new. This decision was mainly taken in order to favour the new generation and also in order
to be able to offer a new estate. In fact the sons of Carlo and Enzo, Erik and Simone, have both attended the “Scuola
Enologica” of Alba (school of oenology). Elena, the daughter of Enzo, has graduated in foreign languages and is now
working at the estate receiving clients and organizing tastings; Niklas, the younger son of Carlo, is studying at the Liceo
Scientifico (scientific high school). Erik, Simone, Elena and Niklas are the future of these two estates!
◊
26
Zone: La Morra
Zone: La Morra
Barolo DOCG
Zone:
La Morra
Varietal:
100% Nebbiolo
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Zone: La Morra
27
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
This is a unique estate: it was established by the Marengo family in 1899 and now Marco manages it, very successfully, totally
on his own after his father Mario passed away in 2001.
The vineyard extension is just 6 hectares, but 1 hectare is in Le Brunate, a grand cru of La Morra (and one of the greatest crus of
the Langhe area) and 0.90 hectares are in Bricco delle Viole, one of the main crus of the town of Barolo. These two plots have
belonged to the Marengo family for three generations. The first vintage of Barolo to be bottled with Le Brunate on the label was
1974 while Barolo Bricco Viole was labelled as such starting from the 1997 vintage.
The vines of Le Brunate are 70-80 years old, the exposure is a lovely south/south-east, the altitude is 350 meters above sea level,
the soil is made up of marl, clay and silt.
Bricco delle Viole is so called because violets flower there before other zones, the exposure is also south/south-east, the altitude
is approximately 450 meters above sea level, the vines were planted at the beginning of the 1950s and the soil is clayey and
calcareous.
As his father before him, Marco has an extraordinary palate: it was and is quite an experience to taste the wines from the barrels,
first in the small and cluttered cellar in the town of La Morra and now in the new cellar that was recently built (the first vintage
to be vinified there was 2011).
The philosophy of Marco is to respect what the vineyards give him as much as possible, the work in the vines is more important
to him than the work in the cellar. In fact he follows natural agricultural practices: spontaneous grass cover is left on the aisles,
only sulphur and copper base products are sprayed, the vineyards are tended by hand (except for topping of the vines which
is done with a machine). In the cellar only SO2, and very little of it, is added to the wines, wild yeasts are responsible for the
alcoholic fermentation, no selected strains of bacteria are used to start up malolactic, the wines are not clarified nor filtered. The
wines age in French oak barriques of which only 15-20% are new so as to maintain the fruit.
Apart from the wonderful Barolo Brunate and the Barolo Bricco Viole, Marco also makes a Barolo “base” from two small plots
in La Morra, a Dolcetto and a Barbera aged for 15 months in French oak barriques. A very interesting Nebbiolo d’Alba is made
from an old vineyard in the Roero zone, the soil of which makes this wine fruity and extremely complex.
Since 2004 only 1,000 bottles of Barolo “Vecchie Vigne Brunate” were produced from two rows of over 80 year old vines of
Le Brunate cru and, starting from the 2009 vintage, this wine was bottled as a Barolo Riserva and released after six years from
the harvest.
◊
28
Barolo DOCG
Bricco Viole
Zone: Barolo
Cru: Bricco delle Viole
Zone: Castiglion Falletto
Average Prod.: 3,500-4,000 bottles
Barolo DOCG Brunate
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Valmaggiore
La Morra
Le Brunate
100% Nebbiolo
1.5 hectares
6,000 bottles
Zone: Vezza d’Alba
Cru: Valmaggiore
29
Piedmont
Vigna Rionda, Vigna Marenca and Vigna Margheria are reputed to be the best in the township of Serralunga and this estate
produces single vineyard Baroli from plots owned in all three of these crus (which can be seen from the azienda’s terrace).
In the 1950s grapes and bulk wines were sold. In the following years small quantities of Barolo “base” were bottled. In 1993 the
Baroli Margheria and Marenca were produced followed by Barolo Vignarionda in 1997.
The wines from these three crus are typical of the great terroir of Serralunga: mineral and austere. Barolo Margheria, made from
50 year old vines, is the most classical. Barolo Marenca and Barolo Vignarionda are structured, complex, with a lot of muscle
and age longer. The Dolcetto is outstanding, also made from vines in Serralunga. It is rich and concentrated and reflects the
character of this zone through and through. A pleasant and well balanced Nebbiolo d’Alba (in which the telltale smooth tannins
of Serralunga are detectable) and a Barbera d’Alba are also made.
The Pira family works as a team with the principal aim of expressing the extraordinary character of their vineyards in the wines.
Gianpaolo is in charge of the cellar, which has been completely renovated. His winemaking is meticulous aided by spotless
modern equipment. The use of wood is very careful: large Slavonian oak casks for Barolo Margheria and Barolo “base” (made
from the vines of Margheria and Marenca standing in the lower part of the slope), 30% new (or even less depending on the
vintage) small French wood for Barolo Marenca and for Barolo Vignarionda.
Gianpaolo’s father, Luigi, and his brother Romolo tend the vineyards: natural viticulture is pursued, no chemicals are sprayed,
low grape yields ensure concentration in the wines.
The azienda Luigi Pira has been part of my portfolio since 1996 and it acquires new accolades and enthusiasts every year.
◊
30
Barolo DOCG
Margheria
Zone: Serralunga
Cru: Margheria
Barolo DOCG
Vignarionda
Zone: Serralunga
Cru: Vigna Rionda
Barolo DOCG Marenca
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Zone: Serralunga
Serralunga
Marenca
100% Nebbiolo
2.2 hectares
7,000 bottles
31
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
The estate was established in 1952 by a family of viticulturists and it is named after the area where it is located. Franco and
Sergio Minuto, the present owners, are supported by Martina, Sergio’s daughter and a trained oenologist, and by Stefano,
Franco’s son, who has always worked at the estate.
The Barbaresco is made in three crus of radically different character, two in the commune of Barbaresco (Bric Balin and Cole)
and one in the commune of Neive (Basarin).
The area consists of small hills and of small valleys, the altitude varies between 240 and 300 meters above sea level. The area has
a very good ventilation so that springtime frosts are very rare, the climate is relatively mild, humidity does not stagnate (these
are the ideal conditions for good ripening of the clusters and to prevent diseases). But the character of the wines, according to
Sergio Minuto, is influenced not so much by this extremely favourable microclimate but rather by the type of soils.
The origin of the soils in Barbaresco (where the Bric Balin and Cole crus are located) is much more ancient than the origin of
the soils in Neive (where the Basarin vineyard stands) which are more recent and have a much higher percentage of sand. The
Barbaresco “Basarin” can be considered the wine that is the easiest to drink when released. The wines made from the other two
vineyards are more “austere” and “closed” at first and they need a longer time to open up and to express themselves, but when
they do you will be captured for life!
These Barbareschi age extremely well: a 1990 Barbaresco Basarin was recently opened together with a 1971 Barbaresco Cole
(40 years’ old!) and both were still fabulous!
At the estate, the agronomical practices of the last 20 years, in particular fruit thinning and topping of the vines, make it possible
to obtain an even quality of the wines. In fact, when in the past topping was not carried out, the canopy of the vines could
develop up to three meters (the shoots of Nebbiolo can grow up to 5-6 meters). With topping the canopy is two meters high at the
most and the vines are consequently “in balance” (balance is achieved when vegetative growth and fruit load are in equilibrium)
and they become resistant to diseases and insect attacks.
The vinification of the Barbareschi made from the three crus is the same: fermentation and maceration with the skins in horizontal
fermentation vats (equipped with an internal agitator and with temperature control) for 6-7 days at 30 degrees Celsius. The wine
is then racked off into stainless steel vats where the alcoholic fermentation is completed. Finally the wine matures in French oak
barriques (228 litres capacity, medium toasting, 70-80% new) for 18 months. Finishing in the bottle is 9-10 months minimum.
Finally, a remarkable barrel fermented Chardonnay, a “base” Chardonnay and small quantities of very fine Dolcetto and Nebbiolo
are made.
In short, under Franco and Sergio Minuto, the Moccagatta estate has gained for itself a spot among the finest producers in
Piedmont. Unfortunately, as seems to be the rule, here too great quality goes hand in hand with small quantities.
◊
32
Barbaresco DOCG
Cole
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Cole
Barbaresco DOCG
Basarin
Zone: Neive
Barbaresco DOCG Bric Balin
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Barbaresco
Muncagöta
100% Nebbiolo
3.4 hectares
15,000 bottles
Langhe Chardonnay DOC
Buschet
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Buschet
Varietal: 100% Chardonnay
Type of Viticulture: in the conversion phase
to Certified Organic
33
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
Angelo was a unique and positive person, he was fun, enthusiastic, generous and with a young spirit. He was also a perfectionist
and had an exceptional palate which made him a wonderful viticulturist and winemaker. It was always a pleasure to spend time
with him at dinners, tasting or at fairs. After his tragic death we are all going to miss him very much!
Wine has been bottled at this estate for four generations by the Rocca family and now Angelo ‘s son in law Carlo and his three
daughters Paola, Monica and Daniela continue making very fine red and white wines.
Three vineyards contribute to the production of the Nebbiolo grapes that go into the making of the lovely Barbaresco: Vigna
Loreto (within the larger cru of Ovello), Ronchi and Montersino, all remarkable crus of the appellation. The vines are 50-70
years old in Ronchi and 45 years old in Loreto and this, together with very strict vineyard management, results in a very low
grape yield, and in 40 hectolitres of wine per hectare at the most. The Montersino cru is in San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, the vines
are approximately 18 years old, the exposure is a beautiful full south and the altitude is 350 meters above sea level. From this
vineyard the homonymous Barbaresco is made.
The estate also offers small quantities of fruity Dolcetto and Barbera and a unique barrel fermented, stout bodied, rich still zesty
flavoured white wine from the Cortese grape, a fresh and fruity Chardonnay with interesting mineral notes and a pleasant red (a
blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Franc) called “Rosso di Rocca”.
The vineyard management of the Rocca family is meticulous, but wait till you see the harvest! Starting at the beginning of
August the vineyards are carefully checked and all clusters which do not reach perfection are eliminated. The white varietals
– in this case Cortese, Chardonnay and Moscato – are only harvested in the morning (the harvest of Moscato starts as early as
5 a.m.) and are placed in crates of a capacity of 300 kgs over a layer of dry ice. The ice evaporates, keeps the grapes cool and
intact (there is no liquid on the bottom of the crates) and dangerous oxydations are avoided. A portable freezer for the supply of
the ice follows the workers in the vineyards. The crates are then immediately taken to the cellar where the clusters are pressed
in very modern pneumatic presses. The red varietals follow the same procedure, without the dry ice, and are only harvested in
the morning on particularly warm days.
In the last three years the maceration with the skins has become slower and longer in order to enhance the classical character
and the elegance in the wines. Angelo had already started changing the wine making style by substituting barriques with large
oak casks.
Integrated insect and disease control has been followed here for the last 20 years: a public body periodically checks the vine
leaves and the wine for pesticide residues and sulphur and copper base products are prevalent. Minimum quantities of organic
fertilizer are spread and grass is left on the aisles between the rows of vines.
The cellar is of a very modern design and equipped with steel vats with temperature control. Small oak has been gradually
eliminated and the reds mature in 20 hectolitre German and Austrian oak casks. These are all exceptional wines that not
only reflect the unique terroir they stem from, but also the passion of this talented family as aknowledged by the Italian and
international specialised press.
◊
34
Barbaresco DOCG
Ovello Vigna Loreto
Zone: Barbaresco
Cru: Ovello Vigna Loreto
Barbaresco DOCG
Zone: Barbaresco, Neive, San
Rocco Seno d’Elvio
Cru: Montersino
Barbaresco DOCG Ronchi
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Barbaresco
Ronchi
100% Nebbiolo
2.7 hectares
10,000 bottles
Rosso di Rocca
Zone: Barbaresco, Ovello
Varietals: 80% Nebbiolo,
10% Barbera,
10% Cabernet Franc
35
Piedmont
Azienda Agricola
The Malabaila family, originally from Asti, were merchants and bankers: in 1349 Guidetto Malabaila lent large sums to Pope
Clemente VI when he was imprisoned in Avignon. The family also has a very old tradition in viticulture and wine making, as
shown in a document stating the purchase of land for the production of wine and dating back to 1362. This document refers to
Vigna del Castelletto from which Roero Castelletto, the top wine of the range, is made today. 1623 is the date of nine letters
where Amedeo of Savoy requests wines. In the 1900s Count Gerardo dal Pozzo Malabaila started bottling wine.
In the 1980s Corradino dal Pozzo Carrega Malabaila, the grandson of Gerardo, together with the oenologist and agronomist
Valerio Alfredo Falletti started ageing the wines and pursuing high quality. The grapes were vinified in the cellars of the
impressive castle of the estate - wine bottles dating back to 1200 were found there. In 1990 a new cellar, following an avant
guarde project, was built in Cascina Pradvaj, the present headquarters. An artificial hill was made over the cellar in order to
keep the temperature inside even.
The estate is now managed by Costanza Carrega Malabaila, wife of Corradino after he passed away two years ago, and her
daughter Lucrezia together with Valerio Falletti whose father also worked at Malabaila.
Sustainable viticulture is followed in the 22 hectares of vineyard, the soil of which is typical of the Roero, sandy-marly with
many fossils. Clones of Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera are multiplied in an old vineyard.
Great attention is given to tradition, but Costanza and Valerio do not want this to be a limitation: the vinification cellar is
extremely modern and the wines rest in French oak barriques, tonneaux and casks.
The total production is 100,000 bottles and the range consists in Roero DOCG, Roero Arneis DOCG (also in a “passito version”),
Barbera d’Alba DOC, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC and Birbèt (a biotype of Brachetto typical of the Roero, birbante meaning “naughty”
in Italian) a slightly sparkling and sweet wine. The estate ha recently released two refined Piemonte Spumante Metodo Classico
DOC: one a blend of Arneis and of Nebbiolo, the other a rosato (100% Nebbiolo). All the wines are extremely elegant, the
Roero with pleasant cherry, rose and violet notes, the Roero Arneis delicate and complex. Birbet is certainly worth a try, a truly
feminine wine!
◊
36
Roero DOCG
Bric Volta
Zone: Canale d’Alba
Cru: Bric Volta
Roero Arneis DOCG
Pradvaj
Cru: Pradvaj
Varietal: 100% Arneis
Roero Riserva DOCG Castelletto
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Canale d’Alba
Castelletto
100% Nebbiolo
3.49 hectares
6,000 bottles
Mezzavilla
Type of Viticulture: low environmental impact
37
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
La Morandina’s terroir is superlative and incredibly idiosyncratic. The Moscato grape, by nature most aromatic, is exalted by
the calcareous soil on which the 15 hectares of vineyard stand.
The Morando brothers’ Moscato is perfection: it has the richness that thoroughly satisfies coupled to a fragrant freshness that
prevents cloying; and the bouquet transcends Moscato with unique nuances of sage and mint.
In this estate strict organic practices have been utilized for over 30 years, in fact chemical pesticides and fertilizers are banned
in favour of sulphur and copper base products, manure and compost. Leguminous plants are sown on the aisles between the rows
of vines and biological control is normally used against some kinds of pests. Furthermore, Giulio and Paolo Morando closely
collaborate with the University of Turin, where their uncle Albino has taught viticulture for many years, and a considerable
amount of research work is carried out at La Morandina.
The estate offers two wonderful Barbera d’Asti, Barbera Varmat and Barbera Zucchetto, both issuing from very old vines: husky
and riddled with spice, these are pure examples of this rich soil, originating from the Miocene Epoch during which the Alps
continued rising from the sea (fossilized shells can be found in the ground). The vines of the Varmat cru are prephylloxera and
are 100-120 years old.
Giulio and Paolo also make a regular Barbera d’Asti and a stunning single vineyard Barbaresco, “Bricco Spessa” (a cru in the
township of Neive), made from 70-80 year old vines, mainly Nebbiolo Michet. This Barbaresco, due to the age of the vines and
to the biotype of Nebbiolo, can be considered an “austere” wine, with an intense aroma and a great structure that makes it suitable
for long ageing.
◊
38
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
Zucchetto
Zone: Montegrosso d’Asti, Costigliole
Cru: Zucchetto
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
Varmat
Zone: Montegrosso d’Asti,
Cru: Varmat
Moscato d’Asti DOCG
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Castiglione Tinella
Bricco Francia
100% Moscato
15 hectares
90,000 bottles
Barbaresco DOCG
Bricco Spessa
Zone: Neive
Cru: Bricco Spessa
39
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
Mario Boschis manages this lovely estate in Dogliani (province of Cuneo) supported by his two sons Paolo and Marco. This
Azienda is completely family run; there are no other employees. They have no designs or aspirations to do anything but remain
a small and very personal property.
Dolcetto di Dogliani has always been acknowledged as the finest expression of the varietal. The appellation rises all the way up
to 550 meters above sea level, a full 200-300 meters higher than the Dolcetto plantings in the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations.
The altitude powerfully enhances the bouquet endowing the Dogliani Dolcetti with a fragrance like no other. Moreover, these
wines in no way suffer that lack of substance or structure so common with wines made from high altitude fruit because, along
with altitude, this variety prefers an even climate and mainly calcareous soil and all these conditions are found here. On the
contrary, the Dolcetti of Dogliani are far more richly complex and age worthy than their lowland siblings. The advantages of
the zone are amplified for Boschis’ vineyards, they rest at the appellation’s highest elevations, with excellent exposures and a
prevalence of plantings from the 1940s and 50s.
The delightful labels of the wines are watercolours and engravings of Teresita Terreno, a local artist. Each represents distinctive
seasonal features of this area, informing us when the wines will be released and giving us hints of their natures. For example
there are strawberries on the label of Dogliani Pianezzo as it is the first wine of the range to be released on the market at
springtime. There is an easy, fine vinosity and floral freshness in this Dolcetto, reminiscent of a bowl full of mixed red fruit. The
label of Dogliani Superiore San Martino has an autumnal scene, harmonious and languishing in the year’s remaining warmth.
Dogliani Superiore Vigna Prey shows an austere hazy winter’s day frozen in snow. The label of Dogliani Superiore Vigna del
Ciliegio is designed, instead, by a close friend: this is the only Dolcetto which matures in wood (the others mature in steel), so
that the Boschis family decided that the label should also be different from the other ones.
The Boschis family also makes a Barbera d’Alba, a Langhe Barbera, a Langhe Freisa, a Piemonte Grignolino and a Langhe
Sauvignon Blanc. Hazelnuts are also grown on the clayiest soils. Fodder is produced for feeding 10 head of “Piemontese” cattle,
known for its delicious meat. The local dish “carne cruda” is nothing more than a simple tartar, but with this beef it is something
truly exquisite. Francesco, Mario’s father, used to work the vineyards with oxen of this breed and their manure is still used as
fertilizer. There are also some beehives which are a passion of Marco’s. As bees are very sensitive to pollution, environmental
friendly practices are strictly followed throughout the whole estate.
Mario’s two sons work full-time at the estate: Paolo is an oenological technician and is more experienced in the cellar, Marco is
an excellent viticulturist. They are both extremely dedicated and follow the philosophy of their father and grandfather making
improvements at the same time. Just as an example of their passion, when a new Dolcetto vineyard is planted, they carry out
selection massale on a prephylloxera vineyard from the late 1800s (a practice learned from their grandfather Francesco). Thus,
producing their own rooted cuttings, they are there their own nursery. This particular biotype of Dolcetto has a red stem, a low
yield and small berries with a thick skin.
◊
40
Dogliani Superiore DOCG
Vigna dei Prey
Zone: Roddino d’Alba
Cru: Vigna dei Prey
Dogliani DOCG
Pianezzo
Zone: Dogliani/Pianezzo
Cru: Pianezzo
Dogliani Superiore DOCG Sorì San Martino
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Dogliani
Sorì San Martino
100% Dolcetto
2 hectares
5,500 bottles
Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC
Vigna Le Masserie
Zone: Roddino d’Alba
Cru: Vigna Le Masserie
41
Azienda Agricola
Piedmont
Produced on a very poor calcareous soil from the Cortese varietal, in a region otherwise almost exclusively devoted to red wine,
Gavi is by definition the fine white wine of Piemonte.
Two wines are produced from the crus of Masera and San Cristoforo: the vineyards stand on a plateau at 250 meters above
sea level and the soil is calcarous and poor, ideal for the Cortese varietal. These two wines are different due to the period of
harvest (the grapes of San Cristoforo are picked later) and due to the vinification, which is shorter for the Masera after a cold
maceration with the skins in order to preserve the aroma. The San Cristoforo rests for a longer time on the lees, it is therefore
more structured and the aromatics develop slower. The work in the vineyard is extremely important for this type of wine,
its vinification is simple. In fact viticulture here is meticulous and natural. There are no problems due to insects so that no
insecticides are sprayed, grass is left on the aisles between the rows of vines. Where needed, lime is worked in the soil to make
it less acid and to consequently lower the acidity in the grapes (the vines stop vegetating when the acidity of the soil is too high,
when the acidity is lower they start vegetating again and the sugar/acidity balance in the berries is favoured).
A third Gavi, Camporosso, is made from vineyards standing in the zone of Francavilla Bisio at an altitude of 300-350 meters
above sea level. The type of soil, part clay and part limestone, makes the production naturally low and enhances the bouquet in
the wines.
Here we have a model estate that offers exceptionally fine Gavi, a crisp, lean and steely wine with piquantly high acidity and
sharply engaging nose.
Ideal as an aperitif, these Gavi are perfectly suited for fish, light soups and hors d’oeuvres.
◊
42
Gavi DOCG
San Cristoforo
Zone: S. Cristoforo
Cru: S. Cristoforo
Varietal: 100% Cortese
Gavi DOCG
Camporosso
Zone: Francavilla Bisio
Varietal: 100% Cortese
Gavi DOCG Masera
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Capriata d’Orba
Masera
100% Cortese
20 hectares
290,000 bottles
43
TUSCANY
Tuscany vies with Piedmont for the laurels of the best red wine region of Italy. Best known for its Chianti, Tuscany boasts a
complex spectrum of red wines ranging from Brunello di Montalcino - one of the world’s most engaging and longest lived wines
- to excellent everyday wines from lesser known appellations which will reward the consumer with fine quality at very affordable
prices.
Common to all red wines of Tuscany is the ubiquitous Sangiovese varietal. As will be clarified by the estate descriptions that
follow, the Sangiovese grape is present in all red wines in percentages running from 65% to 100%. This remarkable and versatile
varietal will yield - according to the area, appellation, cru and exposure in which it is grown, and to the percentages in which it
is used along with other varietals - an array of stunningly diverse fine wines. An ample oenological portfolio that ranges from
wines of great elegance and aristocratic suppleness, to wines of rich gracefulness and engratiating bouquets - each with specific
characteristics for which one may successfully search. When in the 60’s mass replanting was encouraged and subsidized, no
effort was made at the time towards clonal selection. Luckily, from the 1990s onwards, many high quality clonal selections
have been planted throughout the region. The estates which I represent are in the forefront of clonal experimentation, their wines
recapturing the wealth of flavours and intensity of the past with the added know-how of modern winemaking.
Although Tuscany as a whole has remarkable soils and climates which allow for decent wine to be made almost anywhere
below prohibitive altitudes, just decent wine simply leaves me rather unsatisfied. To find, make and release great wines is, and
always has been, my goal. As such the great crus and climates of Tuscany are of the essence, for these are the small and rare
geophysical loci which nature has gifted with the choicest soils and microclimates with respect to grape growing. Italy has never
given its crus a formal status of recognition, but winemakers and growers alike know them only too well: they are too important
in winemaking to be neglected. Finally, as crucial as the clones and the crus is the actual estate which produces the wines - for
the experience, will and imagination of the winemaker are what will exalt the superior qualities of the great raw material into
its finest expression: the great wine.
At the beginning of the 1960s and 1970s, when the DOC and DOCG classifications were established, crop allowances were
permitted to be too high and enforced varietal standardization had virtually destroyed nearly one hundred autochthonous
varieties that abounded less than a century ago. Today the production regulations have been revised and, although foreign
varietals including international grapes are allowed in the blends, many estates, and the ones which are part of our portfolio in
particular, are experimenting with and recovering autochthonous varietals and clones from old vineyards such as Foglia Tonda,
Pugnitello, Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, Ciliegiolo and many others.
Our aim has always been and is to really and fearlessly express terroir in the multifaceted panorama of Tuscany. For example,
what can Sangiovese do in a few crus of Carmignano or of Montepulciano? And believe me, it is unspeakably exciting, and it
shoulders you with pride and awe when, sipping a wine from a barrel, along with the novel flavours you feel a little, but precious
drop of wine truth is being re-established.
In the following section you will find estates described which combine the best grapes, the best crus and the finest winemakers of
Tuscany - in essence, the very special and unique creations of one of the outstanding wine regions of the world.
◊
44
Sangiovese
Canaiolo Nero
Colorino
Vernaccia
Trebbiano
45
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
Andrea Cortonesi, owner of Uccelliera, is a person who could be described as “salt of the earth”: the only son of a farming
family, he has worked in the fields since he was a teenager helping his father.
Andrea is not only an extremely talented winemaker, but he is also a fine entrepreneur who managed to purchase in 1986,
entirely thanks to his own devices, the initial four hectares of the estate, consisting of an ancient homestead and half a hectare
of old vineyards. He immediately planted two hectares of vines and in 1987 the first half hectare for the production of Brunello
was planted. The name Uccelliera, meaning aviary in Italian, probably dates back to the Middle Ages when falcons where raised
in this specific area. In the following years more vineyards, standing in different positions in respect to the homestead, were
added so to reach the present extension of 6 hectares.
To produce Brunello and Rosso by blending vineyards with different exposures and soils is a specific choice so that the character
of each vintage and of the terroir can be expressed following a “mimimum handling” philosophy. This is pursued through natural
vineyard management, the vines are sprayed only with copper and sulphur based products, the use of insecticides is very rare, the
vineyards are tilled so no weedkillers are necessary. Depending on the age of the vines, vineyard density is 3,000-5,000 plants
per hectare. The work in the vineyards, carried out entirely by hand, is focussed on obtaining perfectly balanced vines that yield
fully ripe and flawless clusters.
Andrea’s efforts continue in the cellar (a new cellar has been added to the old one and they are both built underground) where the
wines rest at a constant and natural temperature. At present Uccelliera is without any doubt one of the top estates of Montalcino,
the Brunello and Rosso are complex, intense, extemely supple and drinkable. An IGT/proprietary wine, Rapace, is also produced
and a new release is a selection of Sangiovese, aged in French oak (from ultracentenarian trees) and exclusively bottled in
magnums. The volcanic owner is not only a vigneron, he is also on the board of institutions for the management of the territory
of Montalcino and he has recently opened a very good restaurant near the lovely Piazza il Campo of Siena: the high level cuisine
of the creative chef can be considered part of the family’s tradition as Andrea’s mother is a wonderful cook and to have lunch
at the estate is an unforgettable experience!
◊
In 2006 Andrea started a new project, together with other producers of the area friends of his, with the aim of
enhancing the different aspects of the extraordinary terroir of Montalcino, and a Rosso and a Brunello are bottled
under the brand-name of “Voliero”. The vineyards stand at an altitude of 250-450 meters above sea level with
various exposures and the vines are between 10 and 20 years old. These wines are the expression of this terroir
and show finesse rather than complexity. The style is traditional: the wine rests in large Slavonian and French oak
casks , the Brunello for 30 months and the Rosso for four months. The wines are vinified at the estates of the friends
of Andrea’s while bottling takes place at Uccelliera. The touch of Andrea is unmistakable in these two lovely
wines!
◊
46
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese
Vineyard Ext.: selection over 1 hectare
(older vines)
Rosso di Montalcino DOC
Zone: Montalcino
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
6 hectares
20,000-22,000 bottles
Toscana IGT Rapace
Zone: Montalcino
Varietals: 70% Sangiovese,
10% Cabernet, 20% Merlot
47
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
Roberto Giannelli, who has a law degree and used to work in real estate, has had a passion for wine ever since he was a child.
At the end of 2002 he came into contact with the former owners (who owned the estate since 1972) through his wife and, after
a long negotiation, he bought Azienda San Filippo in 2003.
The four vineyards – La Storta, Le Raffiche, Le Lucére and La Smarrita – stand in the zone of Cerbaiona and all have an
excellent exposure. This zone is particularly cool, with a good night-day temperature range, making it particularly suitable for
growing Sangiovese and the wines tend towards elegance and finesse rather than power.
A great amount of work has been carried out since 2003: the management of the vineyards has been considerably improved, a
new vinification and ageing cellar was built and all the small and large oak barrels along with the fermentation vessels and the
cooling/heating equipment have been gradually renewed.
Roberto’s philosophy is to make the wine “in the vineyard”. All fertilizers, both organic and chemical, have been totally
eliminated, the vines are to “work” on their own without extra aid. With the support of Patrizio Gasparinetti, a very talented
agronomist, natural viticulture is pursued. A metereological station has been placed on the estate in order to schedule antiparasitic
treatments, strictly sulphur and copper based, only when necessary. Where the vigour of the vines has to be kept in check, grass
is left on every other aisle (the space between the rows of vines). Although this can be risky in some vintages due to the weather,
the grapes are harvested only when phenolic and aromatic ripening is complete.
Brunello matures in barriques toasted to a light level for the first 12 months and for a further 14 months in large oak casks.
When one tastes the wines of San Filippo one can only agree with the oenologist Paolo Caciorgna who describes them in two
words: equilibrium and elegance!
◊
48
Riserva Le Lucére
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Le Lucére
Lo Scorno
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Lo Scorno
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Le Lucére
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
Le Lucére
100% Sangiovese
3 hectares
18,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: Certified Organic
49
Tuscany
My first encounter with Brizio wines was at the end of an exhaustingly long day of bopping around Montalcino tasting big fat
Brunelli. The devious devil of dropdead drearyness was whispering to me how easy it would be to call and cancel, after all,
with my mojo running on empty and a seriously diminished interest therefore, what kind of a tasting would it be and wouldn’t
it be unfair to judge this producer in my lethargic condition? In my other ear, the archangel of earnest enterprise blasted and
chastised me for my laziness, shaming and rallying me into showing up. Taking the weight off my feet in Brizio’s office I sighed
and mechanically dragged the first glass across the table and hefted up to my mouth. Whoa! It was all vibrancy and it energized
me immediately. Not knowing, I asked what I was tasting. The 2003. Really? Well, that was remarkable given how most 2003
Brunelli were born tired and overcooked (much like I was feeling 30 seconds before). Then I learned it wasn’t even the Brunello,
it was the Rosso di Montalcino 2003! It was now beyond wanting to taste Brizio wines, I needed to taste them and five vintages
of Brunello later this was clear: Brizio Brunello is unrivalled for elegance and vigor. Is phat!
Roberto Bellini, from a northern Italian family of agricultural entrepreneurs, purchased Azienda Agricola Chiesa di Santa
Restituta in the 1970s and used to also manage the vineyards of Podere Brizio. Chiesa di Santa Restituta was then sold to Angelo
Gaja in 1996. Mr Bellini bought 50% of Podere Brizio and established a partnership with the Cannoni-Mazzi family who had
owned the estate since 1960. A modern and well equipped vinification and ageing cellar of an extension of 1,000 square meters
was finished in 2002: the ageing section is built underground in order to have an even temperature all year round, all the stainless
steel vats are equipped with temperature control and automatic devices to punch down the cap, the presses are pneumatic. Small
and large oak casks are of French Allier oak, barriques and tonneux are renewed every three years.
The total vineyard extension is 8.8 hectares of which 6.8 hectares registered for the production of Brunello, 1 hectare registered
for the production of Rosso and 1 hectare registered for the production of Sant’Antimo. Further 3 hectares of Sangiovese
vineyards (all registered for the production of Brunello) will be planted in 2015.
The excellent south-west exposure, the ideal type of soil and climate (in fact the area is protected from hail and storms by Monte
Amiata a mountain south east of Montalcino and 1,740 meters high) make the zone of Santa Restituta, where the vineyards of
Podere Brizio stand, one of the best areas of Montalcino.
The clones of Sangiovese were selected from the oldest vines of Podere Brizio when the vineyards were replanted (the vineyards
of Brunello are 30, 20 and 11 years old, while the vineyards of Rosso are ten years old). Yields are well below what the
appellation allows. Only the best clusters are chosen for the wines.
The estate is in the conversion phase to be certified organic.
In 2013 Podere Brizio changed its ownership and is now part of IAG Toscana Srl, together with Fattoria Dievole in
Chianti Classico.
The well known and talented oenologist Alberto Antonini now supervises all the phases of winemaking, while the agronomist
Lorenzo Bernini supervises the work in the vineyards.
◊
50
Brunello di Montalcino
DOCG Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Zone: Montalcino
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
6.8 hectares
20,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: in the conversion phase to
Certified Organic
51
Tuscany
Loredana Tanganelli and Antonio Brandi are a young couple of Montalcino who are now managing Scopetone, as Angela
Abbarchi decided to retire after her husband passed away.
The vineyard extension is now 2.5 hectares as 1.5 hectares, belonging to Loredana, have been added to the vineyards of the
estate.
Loredana is a passionate beekeeper and Antonio is a passionate viticulturist (he has previously worked for a local azienda),
together they decided to embark on this project supported by the well known and talented oenologist Maurizio Castelli and by
the agronomist Luca Felicioni.
The brand of the estate has been maintained so that the three wines – Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and a Toscana
IGT (also 100% Sangiovese and made from a vineyard in the zone of Montecucco, Tuscan Maremma) – have kept the label of
Scopetone. Vinification takes place in the old stone cellar of the estate and the wines, except for the IGT that does not see wood,
rest in 33 hectolitre large Slavonian oak casks.
Natural viticulture is pursued, as chemicals of any kind would damage the bees, leguminous plants are sown on the aisles
between the rows of vines and worked into the soil as green manure.
Brunello 2009 was the first vintage produced by Loredana and of Antonio and the wines of Scopetone are as lovely as ever!
◊
52
Zone: Collina di Montalcino
Vineyard Ext: 0.3 hectares
Sangiovese di Toscana IGT
Zone: Montecucco
Vineyard Ext: 1.5 hectares
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Collina di Montalcino
100% Sangiovese
0.8 hectares
4,400 bottles
53
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
“Le Potazzine” (meaning “chickadee” in the local dialect, small very lively birds with coloured plumage) is the nickname given
by the mother of Gigliola Gorelli (who owns the estate together with her husband Giuseppe who is an oenologist) to her two
granddaughters, Viola and Sofia. The estate was established in 1993, the year when Viola was born. Giuseppe also consults for
other wineries in the area.
The vineyards extend for 5 hectares, all registered for the production of Brunello, and only Sangiovese is grown: 3.50 hectares
are close to the newly built cellars and homestead and 1.50 hectares are nearby in the area of S. Angelo in Colle. The area is high
and airy so that there is little disease contamination. Therefore, no chemical products are sprayed, only copper and sulphur, and
no weedkillers are utilised. The vineyard near the homestead is endowed with a high water table, consequently the vines do not
suffer from hydric stress even in extremely hot summers. The vineyards are worked entirely by hand, the harvest is manual. The
grape yield never exceeds 6 tons per hectare.
Giuseppe believes in traditional and natural vinification: fermentation and maceration with the skins is long (approximately 1
month) with indigenous yeasts and without temperature control. The wines rest in traditional Slavonian oak casks of a capacity
of 30-50 hectolitres: the Brunello for 40 months, the Rosso (that could be considered the “younger brother” of Brunello) for
approximately 10 months and the Brunello Riserva, made only in exceptional vintages, for 50-60 months. The Brunello is not
filtered before being bottled in order to keep its aromatics intact. Following the minimum handling principle, bottling is carried
out by free fall without the use of pumps.
All this results in wines that are extremely pleasant to drink, with a great structure, with supple and elegant tannins and with a
perfect balance.
◊
54
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Le Prata, La Torre
Zone: Montalcino
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
Le Prata, La Torre
100% Sangiovese
4.6 hectares
17,000 bottles
Toscana Sangiovese IGT
Le Potazzine
Zone: Montalcino
55
Tuscany
Gianni Brunelli, a man of many interests, established “Osteria Le Logge” in Siena (which has become one of the top restaurants
of the city). In 1987 Gianni returned to Montalcino and purchased Le Chiuse di Sotto, an estate that had belonged to his father
Dino, with two hectares of vineyards standing at 200 meters above sea level in the northern part of the area. In 1989 Sangiovese
for the production of Brunello and of Rosso started being grown again. The vines of a small plot are still the original ones
planted by Dino in 1947.
The “Podernovone” estate was subsequently purchased. The property has a magnificent view on Monte Amiata and it is endowed
with 4.5 hectares standing at 350 meters above sea level, mainly Sangiovese with a small percentage of Merlot (that goes into
the blend of the IGT/proprietary wine “Amor Costante”). The soil of Podernovone, made up of calcareous-marly schists, reflects
light and heat thus favouring the ripening of the grapes. Four different vineyards stand on this property: “Olmo”, “Oliva”,
“Quercia” and “Gelso”.
The different climate of the two properties (fresh and airy at Le Chiuse di Sotto with a lot of rain in the summer and warmer and
ventilated at Podernovone) results in complex and elegant wines, as they are made from the vineyards of both estates.
After Gianni passed away in 2008, his wife Laura, who already used to work with him at the estates and at the restaurant,
takes care of the production and of the marketing of the wines. Paolo Vagaggini, one of the major experts of Sangiovese, is
the winemaker. The vineyards are followed directly by Laura Brunelli with the supervision of an agronomist, a friend of hers.
Sustainable viticulture is pursued, no weed killers are used, grass cover is left on the aisles between the rows of vines where
vigour must be kept in check, the training system is strictly cordon spur which also makes the grape yield lower. Manual labour
reaches 500 hours a year for each hectare of vineyard. Clusters are carefully selected at harvest and placed into small crates.
The Brunello and the Brunello Riserva are classic and traditional: long maceration on the skins (20-25 days) in steel, malolactic
in steel, maturation in large 30-35 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. These wines improve after a few years in the bottle. The Rosso
is fresh with a well preserved fruit. It is very pleasant and drinkable when young, but also after four or five years in the bottle.
Only 2,000 bottles of the IGT/proprietary wine “Amor Costante”, a blend of 20% Merlot and 80% Sangiovese, are released each
year. This is an extremely enjoyable and fresh wine with red fruit and wild berry tones.
The estate also produces an excellent olive oil.
◊
56
Riserva
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Podernovone, Canalicchio
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Podernovone, Canalicchio
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montalcino
Podernovone, Canalicchio
100% Sangiovese
4.3 hectares
10,000 bottles
Toscana Rosso IGT
Amor Costante
Zone: Montalcino
Cru: Podernovone
Varietals: 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot
57
Tuscany
Podere Il Palazzino, owned by Alessandro and Andrea Sderci, is located in Monti in Chianti, 20 km northeast of Siena, in the
southern part of Chianti near Gaiole. The estate is part of a network of farms and of country residences built or restored in the
eighteenth century during the land reform enacted by Leopold Hapsburg-Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany.
The Sderci family became owners of the estate in the mid nineteenth century. But wine started being produced and sold more
recently, at the beginning of the 1970s, when Alessandro and Andrea took over the management. The first vineyards were
planted then, replacing the earlier system of interspersing grapevines with olive trees and planting crops on the aisles between
the rows of trees and vines. As the original cellar was not large enough, a new underground cellar was built in 1996 under the
garden of the homestead.
Il Palazzino is an estate with a traditional style, but with an organic approach to viticulture. Also the wines are traditional with
an organic approach. This traditional style is reflected in the flag wine, Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese, which started being
made as a “supertuscan”, but that was then produced as a Chianti Classico. “Our job is to make Chianti Classico” Alessandro
Sderci tells us.
Edoardo, Alessandro’s son, works in the vineyards and Valentina, his daughter, works in the office together with Claudia, the
daughter of Andrea.
Natural viticulture has been followed for many years and the estate is now certified organic.
Environment friendly practices are particularly meticulous here and are carried out through canopy management, soil management
and grape yield management. In some vineyards, as an experiment, sulphur and copper base products are not sprayed any more
(although it is allowed by the regulations for organic viticulture) and a special mixture of seaweed, bee propolis and other natural
compounds that increase the defenses of the vines are utilised.
The 15 hectares of vineyards have been replanted with disease resistant clones, all Sangiovese except for Canaiolo Nero that was
planted in a vineyard of Casina Girasole.
In the cellar SO2 is reduced to a minimum quantity and nothing else is added to the wine. Only wild yeast is responsible for the
alcoholic fermentation aided by some additives in order to favour natural fermentation.
The ageing in wood depends on the type of soil of the vineyards so to maintain the character of the wines: the elegance of Chianti
Classico Grosso Sanese and Chianti Classico La Pieve, and the floral and aromatic quality of Chianti Classico Argenina. All
types of filtering have been eliminated.
Apart from Chianti Classico, the estate makes a Vin Santo del Chianti and three IGT/proprietary wines: Rosso del Palazzino
(95% Sangiovese, 5% other indigenous red berry varietals), Bertinga (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot. 20% Merlot)
and Stagi (100% Colorino).
Alessandro and Andrea are supported by the oenologist Luciano Bandini and by the agronomist Ruggero Mazzilli who specialises
in organic/sustainable viticulture.
◊
58
Chianti Classico DOCG
Argenina
Zone: Monti in Chianti
Cru: Argenina
Varietals: Sangiovese with a small %
of indigenous red varietals
Toscana IGT
Rosso del Palazzino
Zone: Monti in Chianti,
Lecchi in Chianti
5% other indigenous red
varietals
Average Prod.: 13,000 btls
Chianti Classico DOCG Grosso Sanese
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Monti in Chianti
Grosso Sanese
100% Sangiovese
2 hectares
10,000 bottles
Toscana IGT
Bertinga
Zone: Lecchi in Chianti
Cru: Bertinga
Varietals: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon,
20% Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot
59
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
The estate is located within the heart of the Chianti country, in Gaiole, and the homestead dates back to 1056. Monterotondo was
established in 1959 by the grandfather of the present owner, Saverio Basagni, after which it became a hobby for Saverio’s father.
Saverio and his wife Fabiana now manage the property as their principal activity. All the vineyards were replanted and now the
vineyard extension is 3.5 hectares (all within the Chianti Classico appellation), 3 hectares of which are planted with Sangiovese
and 0.5 hectares are planted with Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera and Colorino.
The philosophy of Saverio is to make excellent wine without the use of chemicals: in fact organic viticulture has been pursued
for 13 years and the estate has been certified organic since 2003.
The owner also firmly believes that the quality of the wine is exclusively determined by the quality of the grapes it is made from.
In fact the vineyards are carefully tended: specific plants are sown on the aisles between the rows of vines, the grape yield per
vine is kept at just 1-1.2 kilograms.
The cellar has been completely renovated over the years and it is equipped with stainless steel vats and a bottling plant. Only
Slavonian oak barrels and casks are used and the capacity is never below 5 hectolitres. Slavonian oak is preferred to French oak
as it is less “aromatic” and does not cover the fruit in the wine. Only the indigenous yeasts present on the grape berry skins are
responsible for fermentation and only, very little, SO2 is added to the wine.
The Chianti Classico Vaggiolata is named after the slope facing south/south-east of the estate (Poggio Vaggiolata). The altitude
(530-570 meters above sea level), the soil which is loose and “poor” and the exposure are the ideal conditions for Sangiovese
and for the other indigenous varietals (Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera) which make up the blend of this interesting, quite unique
and “full blooded” Chianti Classico, similar to a Brunello or to a Barolo with a character that greatly reflects the terroir. The
wine then rests in Slavonian oak casks (7.5-10 hectolitre capacity) for 12-14 months and it is not filtered before bottling.
Chianti Classico Riserva Seretina is made from a tiny plot facing south, just 3,000-4,000 square meters, planted with 20 rows
of vines which are carefully tended and harvested directly by the Basagni family. The blend is mainly Sangiovese with a small
percentage of Malvasia Nera. The clone is a clone of Sangiovese da Brunello that is particularly suited for the soil rich in
galestro (clayey schists) and with a very good drainage and which yields very pleasant wines with spicy tones and that will age
for a very long time. Slavonian oak casks (of a capacity of 7.5-10 hectolitres) are also preferred for this riserva where it matures
for 24-28 months.
Both wines area perfect match with “bollito misto” (mixed boiled meat), with “stracotto” (beef stew), with very seasoned cheese
or with Parmigiano Reggiano that has been aged for 30 months.
Saverio suggests to drink Vaggiolata during a meal, but to drink the riserva Seretina afterwards with friends, he also says that
one must make great wines, but they must be drinkable and in the case of Monterotondo it is certainly true!
◊
60
Riserva Seretina
Zone: Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
Varietals: 95% Sangiovese, 5% Malvasia Nera
Sassogrosso Malvasia di Toscana IGT
Zone: Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
Varietals: 75% Malvasia del Chianti,
15% Malvasia di Candia aromatica,
10% Trebbiano Toscano
Chianti Classico DOCG Vaggiolata
Zone:
Varietals:
Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo,
5% Malvasia Nera
Average Prod.: 7,000 - 8,000 bottles
61
Tuscany
When it was announced in November 2012 that Alejandro Bulgheroni had purchased the expansive Dievole estate in Chianti
Classico along with a 141 hectare property in Montalcino in December 2013, we barely noticed. Why would we? Experience
has taught us that the aims and results of such international investments in Italy have little in common with our interests at Marc
de Grazia. However, it most definitely caught our attention when the same company, just six months later, also acquired Podere
Brizio in Montalcino, an estate part of our portfolio. Then we learned that our old friend Alberto Antonini was chosen to oversee
the winemaking of both.
Dievole had built its reputation in the USA as more a marketing phenomenon than as a top-level Chianti Classico producer.
As such, it appeared to have worn out its welcome and has been without representation there for a number of years. This is
quite a squandered potential, given that Dievole is an important producer in the region, farming over 50 hectares of vineyards
for Chianti Classico with 30 more to come. The property totals nearly 400 hectares situated in Vagliagli in the Castelnuovo
Berardenga township. Dievole can be considered a small town in itself: pools and playgrounds, hiking paths and gardens, and
within a complex of recently renovated medieval structures there are restaurants and a luxury lodging consisting of 26 suites.
The property is astounding!
Dievole can document over 900 years of viticultural history on the property, but what is important, of course, is what they
are doing now. Our meeting with Dievole’s Presidente Enrique Almagro was a pleasant surprise: barriques have been ousted
and stacked high outside the winery. Inside, after passing through a long gallery of truncated conical fermenting casks, we
emerged into the main aging cellar lined on both sides with large oak casks, some Slavonian, some French. Alberto Antonini
and agronomist Lorenzo Bernini undertook the project with the clearest of visions for Dievole Chianti Classico, respecting and
nurturing the exceptional vineyards and applying the least intrusive methods of vinification (for details click on Dievole at
www.marcdegrazia.com). Giovanni Alberio, the on-premise winemaker, guided us through a dozen examples of Dievole’s 2013
Chianti Classico from various vineyard sites, all the while laying out the new vision for both winemaking and viticulture. There
was the proof, taste after taste, that they are already producing astonishingly pure and classic Chianti Classico.
The extraordinary opportunity to work with them quickly became apparent to us. After meeting the new Dievole team, we
recognized that today at Dievole there exists a very special confluence of history, investment, and experience, all supporting
Bulgheroni’s passion to produce distinctly pure, expressive, and compelling territorial wines such as Chianti Classico.
◊
62
Riserva Novecento
Zone: località Dievole,
Vagliagli (Siena)
Zone:
Varietals:
Average Prod.:
località Dievole, Vagliagli, (Siena)
90% Sangiovese, 6% Canaiolo, 4% Colorino
120,000 bottles
63
Tuscany
The fine microclimate and unique soil characteristics surrounding the medieval town of Lucignano, only a mile outside the
western border of the Chianti Classico, make it without a doubt the finest cru of the Chianti Colli Fiorentini appellation.
Of all the estates I have selected in Tuscany, Lucignano is the most consistent in quality, achieving remarkable results even
in the least favourable vintages. Its soils, moreover, (totally unlike those of the Chianti Classico), seem to be responsible for
the unusual resilience of the complementary Canaiolo varietal grown there, the quality of which I have never seen equalled
elsewhere, and whose relatively abundant presence in Lucignano’s Chianti certainly contributes to its unerringly fine quality.
Under these auspices, Niccolò, Ilaria, Angelica and Desideria Guicciardini (after their father, Count Lodovico, passed away
in 2003), together with oenologist Federico Staderini and agronomist Riccardo Galli, perpetuate the reputation that has made
the wines of Lucignano among the most sought after products of the Florentine hillsides. Since 1988 (when I decided to add
the Estate to my selections), Lucignano cultivates only the finest vineyards, having rented out the ones that they no longer felt
were up to the quality they required. The Chianti from this estate is a remarkably fine, fruity and soft wine gifted with a notable
bouquet, floral and berry-like, it is unlike any other Chianti I have encountered in this underrated appellation - a sign of the
unique characteristics of its cru. Significantly enough, Count Guicciardini was piqued at having to call his wine Chianti - in his,
and history’s, opinion, a ridiculous misnomer which appellation laws have fostered upon it. There was a time, before the advent
of mass media, when the cru of Lucignano was as well known and sought after as the best of the Chianti Classico. Those were
the days!
With its appealingly reasonable price it is my answer to the overwhelming output and encroaching presence of cheap and
cheaply made wines that have invaded the markets of the world.
The estate also offers a lovely Vin Santo and a Chianti Riserva.
◊
64
Chianti Riserva DOCG
Zone: S. Casciano and Montespertoli
Varietals: Sangiovese, Colorino, Canaiolo
Vin Santo del Chianti DOC
Zone: S. Casciano Val di Pesa
Varietals: 80% Trebbiano,
20% Malvasia Bianca Toscana
Average Prod.: 5,000 half-bottles
Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG
Zone:
Cru
Varietals:
S. Casciano Val di Pesa
Lucignano
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo,
5% other red berry varietals
65
Fattoria
Tuscany
In Italy the name of Carmignano, a small hillside town northwest of Florence, has been synonymous with fine wines since the
13th century, and documents attest to a sale of Carmignano in 1396 at four times the price of other contemporary prestigious
wines. So great was its reputation that Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, decreed in 1716 that the appellation be
strictly controlled, as well as the harvests and the sales, whether local or abroad. The confines of the ancient appellation remain
identical to this day, making it one of the smallest D.O.C.G. areas of Italy.
The wine itself has a physiognomy all of its own for, although its varietal makeup is similar to that of the Chianti (high
percentage of Sangiovese), a minimum of 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc is compulsory in its blend. These varietals were
introduced in the area by Caterina de’ Medici in the XVI Century and called Uva Francesca (French grape). In addition there is
an allowance of 20% of Canaiolo Nero and up to 10% of other varietals including Merlot, Syrah and such native Tuscan vines as
Colorino, Mammolo, and even some Occhio di Pernice. Thus, in Carmignano we find wines characteristically richer than those
of the Chianti: of more obvious structure and colour, more prodigal in their longevity and of better defined character. And yet
Carmignano is not what one would call a big or tannic wine, nor does it have the rigour of a Brunello di Montalcino. Its richness
is smooth and accessible and its bouquet expresses itself in finesse rather than in power. It likes wood, but not too much of it
and, rightly (for once!), the laws governing its production demand only eight months in wood, twelve months for the Riserva.
The Ambra estate has its vineyards in four of the best crus of Carmignano: Santa Cristina in Pilli, Montalbiolo, Elzana and
Montefortini, close to the Etruscan tomb bearing the same name.
Giuseppe Rigoli, the agronomist who owns the estate, mainly employs Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo Nero. Thus, Ambra’s
Carmignano has a concentration and deep aristrocratic “robe” quite unique among its leaner siblings.
The estate is small, the total vineyard extension 20 hectares. The total output is only about 800 hectolitres which is a yield of
only about 40 hectolitres per hectare; an indication of the rigid grape selection that goes into the making of this wine.
Since the 1985 vintage, a Carmignano riserva has been produced, aged in small French oak (500 and 350 litre tonneaux) and
from the estate’s vineyards of highest elevation, called Montalbiolo, producing a wine of unmatched elegance. 1995 brings
the debut of a second Riserva, Vigna Elzana: still Galestro soil but here clay is a defining component and the resulting wine is
powerful, warm-natured and opulent.
The other wines of the estate are Carmignano S. Cristina in Pilli and Carmignano Montefortini Podere Lombarda (made from the
vineyards standing in the homonymous crus); a fruity and fresh Barco Reale, the young version of Carmignano; a Barco Reale
di Carmignano Rosato made with Sangiovese grapes harvested early and vinified in a separate vat (with maceration with the skins
for 4 hours at a low temperature); a 100% Trebbiano white and a Vin Santo di Carmignano (aged for 6 years in oak “caratelli”,
small barrels of a capacity of 50-100 litres).
◊
66
Carmignano DOCG
Riserva Elzana
Zone: Carmignano
Cru: Elzana
10% Cabernet
Carmignano DOCG
Santa Cristina in Pilli
Zone: Carmignano
Cru: S. Cristina in Pilli
10% Canaiolo Nero,
10% Cabernet,
5% other red berry varietals
Carmignano DOCG Riserva Montalbiolo
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Carmignano
Montalbiolo
70% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Nero, 10% Cabernet
Certified Organic
Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC
Zone: Carmignano
Varietals: 75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo Nero,
10% Cabernet, 5% other red berry varietals
67
Azienda Agricola
Tuscany
The estate was established in 1964 when Alibrando Dei, the grandfather of Caterina, purchased Bossona where he planted a
vineyard (from which Dei’s top wine, Vino Nobile Riserva Bossona, is made). In 1973 the Martiena property was added together
with the beautiful villa which was restructured in the 1930s by the well known architect Piacentini. During the first years the
grapes were sold. The family then decided to start making wine and in 1985, which was an exceptional vintage, a cellar was
rented in the centre of the town of Montepulciano and the first bottles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano were produced. In 1989
a cellar with modern equipment was built next to the villa.
Caterina has personally managed the estate since 1991 when she left her career in the theatre.
The vineyard extension is 55 hectares, divided between the zones of Martiena, Bossona, La Ciarliana and La Piaggia on the
slopes of the hill of Montepulciano.
The varietals grown are mainly the ones utilized in the blend of the estate’s Vino Nobile: Sangiovese and Canaiolo. A small
percentage of the varietals is international and these grapes go into the blend of the red proprietary wine “Sancta Catharina”.
Another small percentage is made up of white varietals (Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano) for the production of Bianco di
Martiena (a second proprietary wine) and of Vin Santo di Montepulciano.
All the phases of wine production now take place in the impressive new cellar entirely built in Travertino marble (from the Dei’s
quarries) and glass. Energy is produced by photovoltaic panels and the temperature is kept even by a geothermal system. The
cellar was built excavating the slope of a hill under the old cellar and it resembles one of the fossil shells that are found in the
soil of the azienda.
Dei produces a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano of truly superior breeding. Powerful and austere, its rich, elegant warmth betrays
a firm underlying structure.
This estate is certainly a reference for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano worldwide due to the extremely high quality of the wines. ◊
68
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
Riserva Bossona
Zone: Montepulciano
Cru: Bossona
Vineyard Ext.: selection over 13 hectares
Rosso di Montepulciano DOC
Zone: Montepulciano
Cru: Bossona, Martiena
5% Canaiolo Nero, 5% Merlot
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Montepulciano
Bossona, Martiena
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Nero
Toscana Rosso IGT
Sancta Catharina
Zone: Montepulciano
30% Cabernet Sauvignon,
30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot
69
Tuscany
Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the only Tuscan white wine with a historical identity and, at its best, with a wonderful and lively
personality. Its reputation dating back to the Middle Ages, the wine’s ebullience was duly noted by Michelangelo who with
a perceptive poetical flight described it as a wine that “kisses, bites, stings and caresses”, perfectly capturing its delicate yet
sinewy character. This wine was the first in Italy to be awarded the DOC status in 1966, which was then upgraded to DOCG in
1993.
The parents of Franco Troiani (the talented owner and manager of the estate who tragically passed away in June 2014 and whom
we all miss) moved from the Marche to Tuscany in 1959 and purchased the estate. In the 1990s a large part of the vineyards
were replanted. The Vernaccia clones were collected, and still are today, from the the oldest vineyard of the property, planted
in 1980. Two or three hectares of vineyards are replanted every year. An extremely modern and partially underground cellar was
built in 2001. To have modern and sophisticated equipment is particularly important for Vernaccia as this grape has a delicate
nature and a very very fragile skin that breaks easily when reaching full ripeness.
Fontaleoni’s vineyards stand on a prevalently calcareous soil (originating from the Pliocene Epoch) at the ideal altitude of
200-250 meters above sea level. The vine training systems are guyot and cordon spur, the traditional ones of the area, vineyard
density is 4,500 plants/hectare.
Vineyard management is meticulous and carried out entirely by hand: only sulphur and copper base products are used, very little
and only organic fertilizers are spread, grass is left on every other aisle. Grape yield is kept low by thinning the buds during the
budding phase and the clusters at veraison (the phase when the berries change colour) and before harvest. The estate is in the
conversion phase to be certified organic.
The touch of Paolo Caciorgna, who consults for Fontaleoni, is evident in the lovely wines. Three Vernaccia di San Gimignano
are made: two “base” versions and a Vernaccia made from a selection of the best clusters grown in the best vineyards. A Chianti
and a Chianti Colli Senesi are also produced.
Franco’s son and daughter now run the estate: Matteo, an agronomist, manages the cellar and the vineyards and Simona, who has a
degree in foreign languages, takes care of the marketing issues.
◊
70
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Casanuova
Zone: S. Gimignano
Varietals: 95% Vernaccia, 5% Chardonnay
Vineyard Ext.: selection over 13 hectares
Riserva
Zone: S. Gimignano
Varietal: 100% Vernaccia
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Zone: S. Gimignano
5% Canaiolo
S. Gimignano
100% Vernaccia
15 hectares
70,000 bottles
Certified Organic
71
Tuscany
Along with the Fontaleoni estate and perhaps a few others, Tenuta Le Calcinaie happily testifies to the rebirth of quality oriented
Vernaccia, a concept all but abandoned for nearly a generation. Simone Santini is the estate’s factotum. Gifted with an archetypal
Tuscan sense of humour - keen, refreshing, flippant and pungent, he in fact much resembles the Vernaccia he makes, a prime
example of why this appellation was the first to deserve formal D.O.C.G. recognition. For, indeed, Vernaccia di San Gimignano
really deserves the reputation that, with Soave and Orvieto, made it pre-eminent among Italian white wines.
A wine with a brilliant and nervous disposition, angular and vibrant, yet smooth in the finish, with the bitter-sweet almond
touch characteristic of the varietal, Le Calcinaie’s Vernaccia is a pretty and coquettish creature, of which, of course, one would
wish one had much more than the little that is made. Even rarer is the Vernaccia Vigna ai Sassi, a single vineyard selection, that
matures on the lees in steel for two years - and turned just a bit thoughtful and reticent in nature.
Simone Santini’s red wines have also turned a few heads. The Chianti Colli Senesi is a wonderfully pure example of the supple
Sangiovese that the San Gimignano climate and terroir will yield, a round, baby-faced wine of exceptional friendliness and
candor. And the IGT/proprietary “Teodoro” is a show stopper - loaded with layers of rich texture, made more jammy by the
presence of Merlot and Cabernet and small oak aging - remarkably satisfying stuff from the Great Santini! The estate also offers
a Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva and another IGT/proprietary wine, “Gabriele”, 100% Merlot.
The estate is certified organic since 2001.
◊
72
Riserva Vigna ai Sassi
Zone: S. Gimignano
Cru: Vigna ai Sassi
Varietals: 90% Vernaccia, 10% Chardonnay
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Zone: S. Gimignano
5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
S. Gimignano
Le Calcinaie
100% Vernaccia
5 hectares
35,000 bottles
Toscana Rosso IGT
Teodoro
Zone: S. Gimignano
Cru: Le Calcinaie
Varietals: 75%Sangiovese,
20% Merlot , 5% Cabernet Sauv.
73
LIGURIA
This is one of the smallest regions of Italy, its surface being 5,420 square kilometres. It is a long and narrow strip of land that
extends from the south of France to northern Tuscany. The major part are mountains and the rest are hills. Its coasts, which in
some areas are extremely steep, extend for 346 kms. Its climate is mild, due to the breezes of the Ligurian sea and due to the fact
that the region is protected by the Alps and the Apennines. Liguria is a region of seamen (Cristoforo Colombo was from Genova),
of merchants, of farmers and of mountain people. Genova was, and still is, one of the most important ports of the Mediterranean.
If you want to see what “heroic” viticulture is all about visit the lovely Cinque Terre that has been declared World Heritage by
UNESCO in 1997.
The cuisine in Liguria is delicious and extremely interesting: as pastures were scarce because of the morphology of the region,
there is a great variety of fish dishes, there is a great use of herbs, the delicious Ligurian olive oil is used in the cooking, there
is a great variety of different kinds of pasta and there are excellent game dishes. For many aspects, Ligurian cuisine can be
considered the true Mediterranean cuisine.
Our selection offers you wines made within the Colli di Luni DOC appellation in the eastern part of the Region in the province of
La Spezia (this appellation also extends to the province of Massa Carrara in Tuscany). Luni used to be an important port during
the ancient Roman times and the wines that were made in this area were very much appreciated at the time. The Vermentino
varietal finds its ideal habitat in this area and has been grown here for centuries.
◊
74
Rossese
Ormeasco
Pollera Nera
75
Vermentino
Pigato
Azienda Agricola
Liguria
The estate was established in 1993 when Roberto Petacchi started managing the vineyards of his grandfather Pietro Giacomelli.
The 11 hectares of vineyards stand in the area of Castelnuovo Magra, the southern zone of Liguria on the border with Tuscany,
in the heart of the Colli di Luni appellation. The climate here is mild, due to the proximity of the Tyrreanean sea, and this
combined with the soil rich in minerals, results in wines with a distinctive and special character. Viticulture is strictly integrated
and sustainable. Roberto makes two single vineyard Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC, a Colli di Luni Rosso DOC, a Liguria di
Levante Rosso IGT and a Liguria di Levante Bianco IGT.
The Colli di Luni Vermentino “Pianacce” is 100% Vermentino grown in the homonymous cru and it is an intense straw yellow
that acquires golden reflections with age. Mediterranean herbs, white fruit and slight tones of acacia flower and wet stone entice
the nose, while the wine is dry, full bodied, supple and round in the mouth. A saline note in the long aftertaste provides balance
and pleasantness. Vinification takes place in steel tanks with temperature control and the wine matures for at least 8 months on
the lees.
The Colli di Luni Vermentino “Boboli” is made from the older vineyards (50/60 years old) of the estate planted according to
the “old recipe” for the whites in this zone, i.e. 95% Vermentino and 5% Malvasia grapes. The original blend is maintained
in the modern version of this wine. Compared with “Pianacce” Boboli offers more complexity and structure and it improves
considerably after three or four years in the bottle. The colour is straw yellow with bright golden reflections, the nose shows a
lovely complexity with fragrant notes of grapefruit, mint, tropical fruit with a distinct mineral note in the finish.
“Pergole Basse” is a fresh and fragrant red vinified and matured in steel in order to maintain the fruit of the young Merlot vines it
is made from. 2011 is the first vintage bottled. The production is very limited, 7,000 bottles from a small vineyard that stands in
front of the Gulf of La Spezia, 50 meters above sea level. The salty sea breeze endows this wine with a great personality despite
its recent history. “Pergole Basse” is an intense ruby red with a typical blueberry and raspberry nose, it is dry, smooth and very
fruity in the mouth with a slight almond aftertaste.
These wines are made from different vineyards and with different blends, but they all show Roberto’s passion for this unique
terroir.
◊
76
Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC
Boboli
Zone: Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)
Cru: Vigneto Boboli
5% Malvasia di Candia
Liguria di Levante
Rosso IGT Pergole Basse
Zone: Castelnuovo Magra
(La Spezia)
Varietal: 100% Merlot
Colli di Luni Vermentino DOC Pianacce
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)
Vigneto Pianacce
100% Vermentino
5 hectares
32,000 bottles
Liguria di Levante Bianco IGT
Paduletti
Zone: Castelnuovo Magra (La Spezia)
30% Trebbiano, 10% Malvasia
77
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
This is the most northern region of Italy, through which the Adige river flows, and it is made up of two distinct areas also from
an oenological point of view. This region has revealed itself, in the last three decades, as the area with the greatest potential for
white wines in Italy, although it also offers excellent reds. The terroirs and the climates here are remarkably suited for the vine,
the microclimates fabulous and highly diversified and the technology of winemaking among the most sophisticated in the nation.
The Institute of San Michele all’Adige is one of the oldest and best oenological schools in Italy and one of the most important
research institutes in Europe. Tiziano Tommasi, owner of La Cadalora, has been working here as a researcher for many years.
Vines were grown in this region since 2,000 BC and the ancient population of the Raetians, later conquered by the Romans,
used to preserve wine in wooden barrels. During the medieval times viticulture was continued by the monasteries. The wines of
Trentino Alto Adige were well known and appreciated also in Germany and in Austria up to modern times. Unfortunately the
vineyards of this region were not spared by Phylloxera, Oidium and Peronospora at the end of the 1800s and at the beginning
of the 1900s.
The landscape is extremely varied: high peaks of the Alps, luscious green valleys, beautiful lakes. The vineyards are cultivated
as gardens.
The cuisine is also extremely varied and quite different to the rest of Italy: of Germanic-Austrian influence in Alto Adige (also
known as South Tyrol) and of Venetian influence in Trentino.
Due to the combination of the unique microclimates, soils and advanced technology, lovely wines are made from allochtonous
varietals (such as Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Riesling, etc) and autochtonous varietals (Lagrein, Schiava
or Vernatsch, Casetta, Marzemino, Gewürztraminer). Furthermore, environment friendly practices have been the rule in this
region for a long time.
◊
78
Lagrein
Schiava
Marzemino
Casetta
Gewürztraminer
79
Azienda Agricola
Trentino Alto Adige
Situated in the town of Santa Margherita, in the southernmost part of Trentino, the estate of La Cadalora extends its 12 hectares
of vineyards in three different plots: about 5 hectares on the calcareous soils close to Marco di Rovereto and the remaning 7
hectares in two calcareous conoids of Valle Cipriana and San Valentino, at the foothills of Monte Zugna. The soils of the latter
contain higher percentages of clay while the former are gravelly/sandy and calcarous.
In the eighties Rodolfo and Tiziano (a trained oenologist from the renouned Institute of San Michele all’Adige) took over
the management of their father’s estate and immediately set to work: the traditional “Pergola Trentina” training system was
modified in order to obtain a vineyard density between 5,000 and 8,000 vines/hectare ensuring a maximum of 1 to 1.5 kgs of
grapes per plant. Viticulture became strictly environment friendly by eliminating chemicals: “sexual confusion” practice is
followed for insect control, only Bordelaise poultice is sprayed and grass is left on the aisles. Green pruning, topping of the vines
and deleafing keep the plants balanced and when necessary and depending on the varietal, fruit is thinned by cutting the second
cluster or the “wings” of the clusters.
The varietals grown are Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, a little Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Marzemino and
Casetta (these last two planted right after World War One, Casetta being a very ancient and rare varietal).
Tiziano’s son Michele is now working full-time at the estate. He graduated in oenology in Italy and at the renowned University
of Geisenheim in Germany with a thesis on forecasting models for vineyard management.
The stile of Tiziano is one after my own heart. The white wines are superbly characterized by a rich, buttery structure and
powerful varietal aromas. The level of the reds is also very high, the wines made from Casetta and Marzemino are extremely
interesting and intriguing and definitely worth a try.
La Cadalora represents more than the discovery of a fine producer, it is the long sought find of a winemaker who, thanks to his
outlook and capacity, produces outstanding wines from Italy.
◊
80
Pinot Grigio Vallagarina IGT
Gazzi
Zone: S. Margherita Vallagarina
Cru: Gazzi
Varietal: 100% Pinot Grigio
Gewürztraminer
Vallagarina IGT
Varietal: 100% Gewürztraminer
Pinot Grigio Vallagarina IGT
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Santa Margherita, Vallagarina
100% Pinot Grigio
3 hectares
35,000 bottles
Pinot Nero Vallagarina IGT
Vignalet
Varietal: 100% Pinot Nero
81
Trentino Alto Adige
Viticoltori Alto Adige is a cooperative representing and operating as a co-ordinating and consulting agency to 5 Cantine Sociali
of the Alto Adige. By grouping together highly specialized and highly qualified producers, Viticoltori has initiated the most
fruitful quality-oriented oenological innovation of the region, for it finally allows the very finest crus of Alto Adige to be known
in their integrity.
The process is simple and effective. The oenologist of the cooperative works closely with the oenologists of the various wineries
and choses only the best lots of wine to be bottled thus ensuring the highest quality possible. And here it must be added that the
Trentino-Alto Adige boasts the finest white wine oenologists in Italy and the best school of oenology of the nation. All aspects
concerning viticulture are supervised by a provincial committee that collaborates with the agronomists of the wineries.
At the beginning of 2006 Viticoltori has developed a new selection of wines that groups the most representative varietals grown
in South Tyrol - Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lagrein, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Schiava
(Vernatsch), Müller Thurgau and Gewürztraminer - from the very best crus.
Remarkable to the neophyte will be the recognition that there is no single cru where all varietals thrive at their best. Rather, each
varietal has a particularly felicitous cru of its own which, due to geophysical aspects of soil, exposure and microclimate, yields
the finest wine of its kind.
Pinot Grigio is presented in two bottlings in the new selection: a “base” version from the vineyards of the Bassa Atesina hills
and a top line wine from vineyards in the Oltradige region. Both areas are long known for their superb white wines and offer the
ideal growing conditions for this particular varietal. These wines are full but soft to the palate with a good acidic balance with
a slight note of ripe fruit. The aroma is of tropical fruit and honey. Truly lovely wines!
Lagrein is a typical varietal of Alto Adige and it is mentioned in XVII Century documents of the Benedictine Monastery of Muri
near Bolzano. It produces full-bodied wines, with red berries and violet notes.
Schiava (Vernatsch) is another grape often found in this region. Viticoltori bottle this light and fruity wine produced from a
number of small vineyards in the township of Appiano-Eppan.
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir give superb results in this part of Italy and these wines are among the best one can taste.
Müller Thurgau and Gewürztraminer grapes are traditionally grown in Alto Adige and Viticoltori offer an excellent version of
wines made from these varietals.
I am extremely happy to be able to present this interesting and well-priced range and all the wines are definitely worth a try! ◊
82
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio
Zone: Bassa Atesina
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Noir
Zone: Appiano
Varietal: 100% Pinot Nero
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio Kristall
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Oltradige
100% Pinot Grigio
15 hectares
150,000 bottles
Alto Adige DOC Lagrein
Zone: Bolzano
Varietal: 100% Lagrein
83
Tenuta
Trentino Alto Adige
Weingut Kӧfererhof is located in the Isarco Valley, the most northern tip of Italy. The 5.8 hectares of vineyards of the estate are
planted on loose and loamy-sandy soils at an average altitude of 650 meters on sea level. The farmstead dates back to the twelfth
century and since then grapes have always been grown and wine was sold directly at the farm. The Kerschbaumer family has
run the estate since 1940.
Up to 1995, when the cellar was completely rebuilt and wine started being produced again and estate bottled, grapes were sold
to Abbazia di Novacella, the local Co-op. Günther Kerschbaumer is the agronomist and winemaker and the wines produced are
typical of this area and more similar to the wines made across the border in Austria than to the traditional Italian whites. Dense
plantings (6,000-7,500 vines per hectare) combined with altitude, high temperature during the day and cool nights in summer
result in fresh, aromatic and fruity wines with a good structure and mineral notes.
The Kerschbaumers make eight Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC wines from the classical varietals of the region: Pinot Grigio,
Sylvaner (a “base” and a single vineyard wine are produced), Kerner, Müller Thurgau, Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer and
Riesling.
◊
84
Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC
Pinot Grigio
Zone: Varna/Novacella
Sylvaner
Varietal: 100% Sylvaner
Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC Kerner
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Novacella/Varna
100% Kerner
3.6 hectares
25,000 bottles
Gewürztraminer
Varietal: 100% Gewürztraminer
85
Azienda Agricola
Trentino Alto Adige
The estate has belonged to the Pratzner family for 400 years. It is located at 675 meters above sea level on a sunny hill near the
village of Naturno, in the lower Venosta valley, 12 kilometres from the town of Merano in Alto Adige. The climate of this lovely
valley is dry and windy. The soil is poor and difficult to cultivate. The altitude and the prehistoric rock of the soil are ideal for
the production of white wines with great character and of delicate reds. The vineyards stand above the picturesque castle of
Naturno and have been managed with a great passion for over 15 years by Franz Pratzner, the present owner, together with his
wife Bernadette. Franz is the agronomist and the wine maker of the estate as well.
The vineyards, all with southern exposure, extend for 12 hectares and are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir,
Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Apple trees, peach trees and Schiava (Vernatsch) vines were previously cultivated in this location.
The vine training system is espalier (Guyot) and the vineyard density is 9,000-12,000 vines/hectare.
Sustainable/integrated viticulture is pursued, grass is left on the aisles between the rows of vines, and specific leguminous plants
are sown every 5-6 years. Copper and sulphur base products are mainly sprayed and only organic fertilizers are used.
The cellar, with very modern equipment, has been totally renovated in the last two years. Acacia casks, of a capacity of 10-40
hectolitres, are used to vinify and mature the white wines, which are kept on the lees till bottling. Acacia wood is neutral so that
the complex aromatics of the wines are maintained.
The wines are rich and structured, the fruit is intense and complex with a lively and fresh acidity.
The Italian and international specialised press consider the Riesling one of the best produced south of the Alps.
The average production is approximately 90,000 bottles/year.
◊
86
Alto Adige Val Venosta DOC
Pinot Bianco
Zone: Naturns (Bozen)
Varietal: 100% Pinot Bianco
Sauvignon
Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alto Adige Val Venosta DOC Riesling
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Naturns (Bozen)
100% Riesling
7 hectares
45,000 bottles
Pinot Nero
Varietal: 100% Pinot Bianco
87
Trentino Alto Adige
This small, family run estate south of Bolzano, was bought at the beginning of the 1950s by the grandmother of Roman
Mottironi, the present manager. The vineyard extension is approximately 5.5 hectares, while 1.5 hectares are grown with apple
trees. Wine has always been made at Putzenhof, Roman’s grandfather used to make a white and a red, bottled in 1 litre bottles,
with local grape varieties.
In 2009 Roman started bottling and labelling the wines made with the estate grown grapes.
The vineyards are located in three different zones, all with a particularly favourable microclimate for viticulture.
The Pinot Noir vineyards stand in Salorno in the Mazzon zone, which is considered the best cru for this variety in Alto Adige.
The altitude is 500-600 meters above sea level, the soil is porphiric, sandy and clayey, the exposure is south-west.
The Kerner vines stand in Valle d’Isarco which is particularly suitable for this grape variety (in fact all the Kerner vineyards of
Alto Adige are located in this area). The altitude is 500 meters above sea level, the exposure is south-west, the soil is sandy and
clayey.
The other vineyards of the estate (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Lagrein) stand on the hills south-east of Bolzano. The
exposure is south-west and the soils are porphiric, sandy and clayey.
Environment friendly agricultural practices are followed. Weed killers have been banned 15 years ago and cover crops are left
on the aisles between the rows of vines. Instead of dropping fruit, the clusters are cut in half in July, removing the lower part
which ripens later. Only products approved by the protocol for organic viticulture are sprayed in the vineyards.
Roman is supported by a young and talented oenologist, Mirko Maccani, and their combined efforts result in fresh, flavourful
and mineral wines.
The range of wines, all Alto Adige DOC, includes three whites made with Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Kerner and three reds, a
Lagrein, a Pinot Nero and a Bozner Leiten (meaning hills of Bolzano, a blend of 85% Schiava and 15% Lagrein and Pinot Nero).
The total average production a year is 35,000-37,000 bottles.
Azienda Putzenhof also offers six delightful rooms in its agriturismo.
◊
88
Alto Adige Valle d’Isarco DOC
Kerner
Zone: Bolzano
Varietal: 100% Kerner
Alto Adige DOC Sauvignon
Zone: Bolzano
Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alto Adige DOC Pinot Nero
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Bolzano
Pinot Nero
1.4 hectares
5,000 bottles
Alto Adige Bozner Leiten DOC
Zone: Bolzano
Varietals: 85% Schiava,
15% Lagrein and Pinot Noir
89
VENETO
This region, once one of the poorest and from which many people had to migrate in order to find work, is now one of the
wealthiest. When one visits Veneto nowadays it is incredible to think that in the past scurvy was rampant in some areas as
“polenta” was the staple diet.
As in most Italian regions viticulture and winemaking are an ancient tradition: the Romans improved the techniques of the
Etruscans and of the Raeti (another ancient population that inhabited Veneto) and the wines of the Colli Euganei and of the area
of Vicenza were famous. In the following centuries viticulture was abandoned due to the barbaric invasions and it flourished
again starting from the XI Century and under the “Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia” (the Most Serene Republic of Venice).
In 1709 an extremely cold winter destroyed the major part of the vineyards and at the end of 1800s Phylloxera, Oidium and
Peronospora annihilated many indigenous grape varieties. Consequently grape varieties were introduced from France and
from other regions of Italy and were grown together with the autochthonous varieties that survived. In Veneto viticulture and
winemaking are extremely important, but it is also the first region in Italy for wine consumption.
This region rightly attracts the largest amount of tourists in Italy each year due to its impressive historical and artistic sites
and its places of interest. There is much more to see apart from Venice and Verona (although even after numerous visits to these
fantastic cities there is always something new to discover) and each town is a jewel. And when you are tired of sightseeing you
can relax in one of the spas in the Colli Euganei or on the lake of Garda where there are many hot springs.
The cuisine is extremely varied and, as Veneto was dominated by the “Serenissima” for over three centuries till 1797, the
influence of this powerful Republic is still felt for example in the use of spices, reminiscent of the trade with the East. Otherwise
you can try a vast array of sea and fresh water fish dishes, seafood, meat dishes (horse and even donkey meat is traditional in
Verona), pork products, incredible risotto (try a risotto made with “Vialone nano” a typical rice variety), home made stuffed
pasta and so on. Many vegetables are typical of Veneto such as the delicious “radicchio Trevigiano” cut in half and grilled.
The producers of our selection mainly make wine with autochthonous varieties grown in the best areas of Soave, Valpolicella,
Valdobbiadene and Custoza. They are all family run wineries with a long tradition and make it possible for you to taste “the real
thing” in the glass!
◊
90
Corvina
Corvinone
Rondinella
Molinara
Garganega
Glera
91
Azienda Agricola
Veneto
The Gini family is one of the oldest of the area going back as far as the 1500s. Documents of the 1600s and 1700s were found
stating purchases of land and of vineyards (the cru Contrada Salvarenza is mentioned) confirming that this has always been a
family of vignerons. Claudio and Sandro now manage the estate after their father Olinto left us a few years ago, and Matteo,
Sandro’s son, is working full time at the estate, mainly in the cellar.
All of the 25 hectares of vineyards planted with Garganega grapes of the estate stand within the Soave Classico appellation.
The historical vineyards of La Froscà and of Contrada Salvarenza have always belonged to the family. Other vineyards, with
an excellent position and with old vines, were purchased in the 1980s: these are the vineyards of Foscarino, Montegrande,
Casanova (all three with volcanic topsoil) and of Volpare.
La Froscà is the name of the hill where the crus of La Froscà (on the top of the hill) and of Contrada Salvarenza (in the centralmiddle part of the hill) are located. The topsoil is volcanic while the deeper part of the soil is calcareous. The oldest vines are in
Contrada Salvarenza (from 60 to 100 years old), one third of the vines are prephylloxera and consequently ungrafted. The hills
of Monteforte boast the highest vineyard density in Europe, in fact it reaches 95-96%. The cru of Col Foscarin, 4 hectares of
Soave Classico from which the grapes for the homonymous Recioto are selected, is at the back of the La Froscà hill.
Only natural practices are followed in the vineyards and in the cellar.
The Soave Classico, far from being a “base” wine, is the result of a careful selection of 5 or 6 crus of Garganega all in exceptional
positions. The vines are all 60 or more years old (bear in mind that Claudio and Sandro never planted a vineyard of Garganega
in their life!). The soil of these crus varies from volcanic to calcareous so that this wine has an exceptional complexity.
The Soave Classico Contrada Salvarenza is made exclusively from grapes grown in the vineyard of the same name. The clones
were selected by Claudio and Sandro’s great grandparents from their best vines in order to make high quality wine. This wine is
still wonderful after many years: at the dinner that the Gini family has every year during Vinitaly, 1990 and 1999 bottles were
opened and they were fantastic!
The single vineyard La Froscà Soave Classico is another masterpiece. The same grapes are responsible for Gini’s splendid Grand
Cuvée Brut Millésimé (48 months on the yeasts!).
The vineyards of the estate do not only stand within the Soave Classico, but other 33 hectares (now all certified organic) were
planted in a wonderful area on the hill of Mirabello, on the border of the Soave area, surrounding the village of Campiano, at 600
meters above sea level and which includes the appellations of Monti Lessini DOC and of Valpolicella DOC. This is an incredible
and uncontaminated zone and it originally was a tropical sea: the calcareous, smooth and stratified rock which is seen in the
vineyards and at the side of the dirt roads is in reality the primordial barrier reef!
Campo alle More (100% Pinot Noir), Maciete Fumè (100% Sauvignon Blanc) and a Monti Lessini DOC white are produced
here and soon the Gini family will delight and surprise us with a Valpolicella and an Amarone wine vinified in the impressive
new cellar they are building!
◊
92
Soave Classico DOC
Salvarenza
Zone: Monteforte d’Alpone
Cru: Salvarenza
Varietals: 100% Garganega
Soave Classico DOC
La Froscà
Cru: La Froscà
Soave Classico DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Recioto di Soave Classico DOCG
Col Foscarin
Monteforte d’Alpone
100% Garganega
12 hectares
110,000 bottles
Type of Viticulture: Certified Oragnic
93
Veneto
Azienda Agricola
When Gaetano Tamellini contacted me through a common friend, bringing me a superlative bottle of Recioto he had
bottled for family use, I was interested to hear that he wanted to start bottling, instead of selling grapes to the Coop. He came to see me for advice. So we talk, reciprocally visit, build a relationship, and we begin. Having furnished
the cellar from scratch with state of the art equipment just in time for the 1998 harvest, I send in Paolo Caciorgna,
the best white wine maker I know, to follow each step of the vinification. In the meantime Gaetano and his brother
Pio Francesco work beyond any call of duty in order that the difficult harvest may yield the loveliest of wines.
The members of the Tamellini family have been vignerons for three generations. Gaetano, an agricultural
technician, and Pio Francesco, a chemical engineer, make wonderful Soave DOC and Soave Classico DOC from
26 hectares of Garganega. Gaetano manages the work in the vineyards and Pio Francesco is in charge of the cellar.
The Garganega grape finds its natural habitat on the hills of Costeggiola and of S. Vittore (in the province of
Verona) due to the calcareous and volcanic soil, the excellent exposure and the mild climate. The major part of
the vines is over 40 years old, while the vines standing on a surface of about 9 hectares are now 10 year old.
The practices in the vineyards are strictly environment friendly: integrated insect and disease control is followed. Copper
and sulphur base products are utilised in prevalence. No fertilizers are used. Natural cover crops (grass cover) are
left on the aisles between the rows of vines. The soil is not tilled and the turf is left in place. The use of insecticides is
substituted by the “sexual confusion” practice. The harvest is manual and the workers carefully select the clusters.
The bins, used to carry the grapes from the vineyards to the cellar, are meticulously washed with a jet cleaner.
The cellar, initially in the basement of Pio Francesco’s home, was enlarged in 2003. The equipment is modern, steel vats with
temperature control (all the wines are vinified and matured in steel), the clusters are pressed whole in a pneumatic press which
is saturated with nitrogen in order to prevent oxidation. The S02 used in the wines is below the limit set for organic wines.
The philosophy of the Tamellini brothers is to make extremely natural wines, with minimum interventions in the
vineyards and in the cellar. Every year small adjustments are made in order to reach this aim. Gaetano and Pio firmly
believe in Garganega as proved by the 26 hectares planted with this grape variety. For this reason they have made a
delicious Spumante with the traditional method to show how versatile this grape can be and how well the wine can age. ◊
94
Soave Classico DOC
Le Bine de Costiola
Zone: Soave
Millesimato Extra Brut
Soave DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Zone: Soave
Soave
100% Garganega
20 hectares
200,000 bottles
95
Veneto
This estate is located on the hills of Negrar, one of the five municipalities of the historical area for the production of Valpolicella
and Amarone wines within the province of Verona.
The Mazzi family has a long tradition in viticulture and wine making (wine was produced here since the early 1900s) and in
1960 Roberto Mazzi, a trained agronomist, started bottling the wines of the vineyards standing on the hills of Calcarole, Castel,
Poiega and Villa. The estate was initially called “Sanperetto” after the district where the farmstead was built in the 1800s.
The two sons of Roberto, Antonio and Stefano, are now at the helm and continue the tradition of making excellent Valpolicella
Classico, Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella.
The vineyard extension is 7 hectares, all within the Negrar valley and within the Valpolicella Classica zone, and it is divided
into five vineyards, which are among the best crus of the appellation. The exposure is south-west, and the grape varieties are
the traditional ones: 70% of the vines are Corvina and Corvinone, 20% are Rondinella and 10% are Molinara. The vine training
system is guyot and the age of the vines varies from 10 to 35 years. Natural viticulture has always been pursued and grass is left
on the aisles between the rows of vines.
The Poiega vineyard stands at 220 meters above sea level, the loamy-clayey soil is of alluvial origin and it is rich in limestone.
The Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, that go into the blend of the homonymous Valpolicella Superiore, dry for 40 days
before being crushed.
The Calcarole vineyard stands at 240 meters above sea level on the highest part of the Poiega hill. In the best vintages Recioto
is made from these grapes that are dried till the end of February.
The Mazzi family consider the grapes of the Villa vineyard more suitable for the production of Amarone, called Punta di Villa
due to the shape of the vineyard. The age of the vines varies from 5 to 20 to 30 years and the altitude is 250 meters above sea
level. The grapes are dried till the first-second week of January.
The Castel vineyard has been recently purchased and it stands above the Villa vineyard at 350 meters above sea level. Stefano
and Antonio decided to bottle a second Amarone, made from the Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes, with different
characteristics in comparison to the Punta di Villa Amarone as, due to the different position, the grapes have a higher sugar
content and particular balsamic notes. The clusters are dried till the first-second week of January.
The Valpolicella Sanperetto is made from a small vineyard next to the farmstead, together with the grapes from the other
vineyards that are not dried.
The wines of the Mazzi family reflect the best characteristics of this wonderful terroir, finesse and fruit are enhanced rather than
structure, they are extremely pleasant and drinkable even after many years.
Since the end of the 1980s, Roberto together with his wife Fiorella, has been dedicating himself to cooking, a great passion of
his. If you are in the Valpolicella stop at the family’s “eno-agriturismo” and experience a wonderful dinner, with a delightful
family and with lovely wines!
◊
96
Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC
Sanperetto
Zone: Negrar
Crus: Poiega, Villa, Sanperetto, Castel
Varietals: 70% Corvina and Corvinone,
20% Rondinella, 10% Molinara
Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC
Poiega
Zone: Negrar
Cru: Poiega
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Punta di Villa
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Negrar
Villa
70% Corvina and Corvinone,
Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOCG
Le Calcarole
Zone: Negrar
Cru: Calcarole
20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina
97
Veneto and Lombardia
Luciano Piona is an old friend and a sailor like me. He took me to the
Ristorante “Al Ponte” in Sommacampagna (that since then has become a “must”
during the Vinitaly Fair) for the first time and there I tasted the excellent wines
that he produces together with his brother Franco. I am now very happy to
include the three estates of the Piona family in our selection.
◊
Azienda Agricola
(Custoza, a district of Sommacampagna, province of Verona)
The estate was established at the beginning of the 1900s, when the first vineyards were
purchased. The cellar was built later and part of it was used as a distillery of grape marc till
1967. In 1962 Cavalchina was the first winery to call the white wine of this area (a blend of
Fernanda, Trebbiano and Garganega grapes) “Custoza” and to sell it in Rome and in Milan,
the most important markets of the time. Only the grape varietals that are most suited for the
area are grown, yields are kept low and only the best clusters go into the wine that is bottled.
Modern technology is used in the cellar, but tradition is also respected. The wines produced
are: Bianco di Custoza DOC, Bianco di Custoza Superiore DOC, Bardolino DOC, Bardolino
Chiaretto DOC, Bardolino Superiore DOCG.
Vineyard extension: 40 hectares - Total average production/year: 373,500 bottles.
◊
Bardolino DOC
Zone: Custoza, Sommacampagna (Verona)
Varietals: 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, 10% Molinara
Vineyard Extension: 7 hectares
98
Azienda Agricola
(Monzambano, province of Mantova)
This estate was purchased by the Piona family in 1958 and vineyards were planted. The
origins of La Prendina go back to the times of the Gonzaga, Lords of Mantova (XIV century).
In the beginning the wines were released with the label of La Cavalchina and the first wine
with the label of La Prendina was a Merlot bottled in 1980 for the famous chef Gualtiero
Marchesi. As of 1990 the wines of this estate have their own brand. Environment friendly
practices are followed in the vineyards in order to favour the concentration in the wines,
without altering but enhancing the main characteristics of the different grape varieties. The
wines produced are: Merlot Garda DOC, Alto Mincio Pinot Grigio IGT.
Vineyard extension: 50.33 hectares - Total average production/year: 360,000 bottles.
◊
Provincia di Mantova
Pinot Grigio IGT
Zone: Monzambano (Mantova)
Cru: Casina, Prendina
Vineyard Extension: 25 hectares
Azienda Agricola
(Marcellise, in the Valpolicella zone, province of Verona)
The estate, in the Valpolicella area, is named after the ancient watchtower of the Castle
of Montorio. Terracing where the farmers used to grow olives, grain and vines can still
be seen. The Piona family recently purchased this land and planted vineyards with the
indigenous varietals of Valpolicella. The soil here is the typical red soil of the area mixed
with white chalk. This type of soil combined with the altitude gives great elegance to
the wines and makes them suitable for a long ageing. As in the other two estates, natural
practices are followed in the vineyards, the grape yield is kept low and only the best
clusters are vinified. Modern technology is used in the cellar bearing tradition in mind.
The wines produced are: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella Superiore
DOC, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC, Rosso Provincia di Verona IGT.
Vineyard extension: 10.61 hectares - Total average production/year: 71,500 bottles. ◊
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Type of Viticulture: in the conversion phase to Certified Organic
99
Zone: Marcellise (Verona)
15% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta
Vineyard Extension: 4.67 hectares
Cantine
Veneto
It was not easy to find a Prosecco that could satisfy our requirements, but finally we came in contact with Cantine Umberto
Bortolotti and the wines are a great addition to our portfolio. The average production, although approximately 900.000 bottles a
year, is by no means large in comparison to other wineries in the Valdobbiadene area.
The Cantine was established in 1947 by Umberto Bortolotti who had a real passion for Prosecco; together with a group of friends
he founded the “Consorzio di Tutela del Prosecco” (Consortium for the safeguarding of Prosecco), the Prosecco brotherhood and
he also set up the National Fair of sparkling wines in 1963.
The cellars have been at their present location since 1954 and have recently been completely renovated. The business is now run
with much enthusiasm by Umberto’s son Bruno together with his nephew Daniele and this winery is a perfect blend of extremely
modern technology and respect for tradition. A small group of grape growers within the Valdobbiadene appellation has been
carefully selected over the years, together with oenologist Enrico Baratto and Marika Zanatta today, ensuring that only grapes
of the highest quality are vinified. All of the wines are made by the Charmat production method.
There are two main lines of wines; the Linea UB where the Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG is predominant along with a few
other grape varieties and the Linea Codice Bortolotti that includes 3 millésimé sparkling wines.
Four DOCG single vineyard wines have recently been released: Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Rolle “Piai Alto”,
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di S. Stefano “Montagnole”, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Col S. Martino
“Vigneto Castel de Donà” and Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Vigneto Àltena. “Rive” means “steep hill” in local dialect.
This indication on the label is only allowed for sparkling wines that represent the essence of the terroir they derive from. The
wines are produced from vineyards located in a single village where the maximum allowed grape yield is reduced to 13 tons per
hectare. The harvest from theses old vines has to be manual and the vintage must be shown on the label.
All wines will satisfy even the most discerning customers and are ideal not only as an aperitif or with desserts, but also for
unusual and interesting food matches. Apart from the delicious Prosecco, the sparkling Nosiola and Lagrein are definitely worth
a try.
◊
100
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup.
Extra Dry DOCG 47
Zone: Valdobbiadene
Varietals:90% Glera
(previously called Prosecco),
10% Pinot Bianco
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup.
Extra Dry DOCG
Zone: Valdobbiadene
Varietal: 100% Glera
(previously called Prosecco)
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Sup. Brut DOCG
Zone:
Valdobbiadene
Varietal:
100% Glera (previously called Prosecco)
Rosato Lagrein Brut VSQ
Zone: Casteller, Ravina (Trento)
Varietal: 100% Lagrein
101
EMILIA ROMAGNA
Although Emilia-Romagna is considered a single entity, Emilia and Romagna are two distinct wine regions. In the following we
will describe Emilia as a producer of the province of Modena is part of our portfolio.
The economy of this area of Italy makes up a considerable part of the national GDP, but unfortunately it was hit by a very strong
earthquake in May 2012: 55 people lost their lives, many were injured and a few thousand people had to leave their homes.
Historical buildings, schools, factories and farms were badly damaged.
Viticulture and wine production started with the Etruscans, followed by the Romans. The wines were very much appreciated in
the medieval times and prospered in the following centuries till Phylloxera ravaged this region destroying 90% of the vineyards
at the end of the 1800s. The vineyards were subsequently replanted, but, as in the other Italian regions, many grape varieties
were unfortunately lost.
Lambrusco wine started being made in the XVIII century and it immediately had an incredible success. It is made with the
homonymous grape varieties (Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Grasparossa, Lambrusco Salamino and others) which can be
considered the most indigenous varieties in the world as they represent the genetic evolution of the “vitis silvestris occidentalis”
which was domesticated in the zone of Modena.
Emilia is very rich from a historic, artistic, agricultural, economic and gastronomic point of view: the capital Bologna is also
known as “Bologna la grassa” (fat Bologna).
If you are on a diet and you have to eat “spa food” you are in the wrong place: this is the land of Parmigiano Reggiano, of
Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello, cotechino, tagliatelle all’uovo, tortellini, lasagne, cappelletti, bollito misto alla
Modenese just to name a few dishes of the extremely vast gastronomy of Emilia. Many dishes go back in time as, for example,
the “pasticcio ferrarese di maccheroni” a kind of pie made with sweet pastry and stuffed with maccheroni, mushrooms, truffle
and meat or “erbazzone dolce” made with thinly sliced boiled chard mixed with ricotta, sugar and almonds. And what about
the heavenly Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena? Emilia is also famous for fruit and vegetable production, such as the
crunchy and delicious Vignola cherries.
What is better than a glass of high quality Lambrusco, as we offer in our selection, to wash down this lovely food or a glass of
sparkling Pignoletto to drink together with a plate of “tortellini in brodo”?
◊
102
Lambrusco di Sorbara
Lambrusco Grasparossa
Lambrusco Salamino
Lambrusco Ancellotta
Pignoletto
103
Emilia Romagna
Poderi
Ten years of searching have finally found us a small Lambrusco estate of irresistible quality in the province of Modena and that
has been owned and managed by the Fiorini family for four generations. Alberto and Cristina, brother and sister, are now at the
helm and continue to produce outstanding Lambrusco, one of the most typical and authentic wines of this area, supported by
Umberto Bertolani, a well-known oenologist and a point of reference for sparkling wine and for Lambrusco in particular. A new
estate within the Colli Bolognesi DOC appellation has recently been purchased and there is now a very intriguing Pignoletto
frizzante to offer - Pignoletto being an indigenous white varietal of the area. But this is not all: the family also produces a
heavenly Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena “affinato” (aged for 12 years in wood) and “extravecchio” (aged for 25 years
in wood)!
The Lambrusco grape varietal is ancient, it was mentioned by Virgil, Cato and Varro as “Labrusca vitis”*, meaning a wild vine
that produced clusters with a tart flavour and that used to grow on the borders of fields. The family of Lambrusco is quite vast
and each biotype is quite different. The ones that yield the best wines are the Lambrusco di Sorbara, the Lambrusco Salamino
(so called for the shape of the clusters which is similar to a salame) and the Lambrusco Grasparossa. All three of these varietals
are grown at Poderi Fiorini.
The vinification method at the estate is utilised only by a few other producers. For the reds, pre-fermentative cold delestage is
carried out: the clusters are crushed and the must is pumped into steel vessels with temperature control, once a day 50% of the
liquid is pumped into vats and kept at 4-5 degrees Celsius for 6-7 hours, after which the must is pumped back into the vessel
with the skins. This process is repeated for 4-5 days for the Lambrusco Grasparossa, while it only lasts for a few hours for the
Lambrusco di Sorbara. In this way freshness, fragrance and aromas are perfecty preserved. The must is then racked in order to
separate the liquid from the skins and kept at 0 degrees Celsius. The vinification process continues in autoclave (long Charmat
method that favours the forming of a fine and persistent “perlage”) where the alcoholic fermentation takes place together with
the “prise de mousse” for approximately 60 days. All the Lambruschi are remarkable and very different wines to the industrial
ones that unfortunately invaded the market: they are elegant, fruity, floral with a pleasant freshness that “cleans” the mouth.
The gem of the estate is “Vigna del Caso”, 50% Lambrusco di Sorbara and 50% Lambrusco Salamino, refermented in the bottle.
It is not filtered, the perlage is extremely fine, a delicate yeast note delights the nose, the flavour is dry and with a pleasant
bitter finish.
If you have doubts about Lambrusco being a high quality wine try these and you will discover a new world (possibly with
classical dishes of the lovely cuisine from Emilia)!
◊
* although the name is the same - Labrusca meaning “wild” in Latin - this vine is part of the European (Vitis Vinifera) grape
varieties and it has nothing in common with the Vitis Labrusca which is part of the American vine species
104
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro
DOP Becco Rosso
Zone: Castelvetro and Savignano sul Panaro
Varietal: 100% Lambrusco Grasparossa
Lambrusco di Sorbara DOP
Corte degli Attimi
Zone: Bomporto, Sozzigalli
Varietal: 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP
Terre al Sole
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Castelvetro and Savignano sul Panano
100% Lambrusco Grasparossa
2 hectares
15,000 bottles
Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOP
Spazzavento
Zone: Spazzavento
Varietal: 100% Pignoletto
to Certifed Organic
105
MARCHE
This region of Italy may be “off the beaten track” for the average tourist visiting Italy, but it is one of the richest regions in
cultural assets: 500 historical squares, more than 1,000 monuments, 37 strongholds, 106 castles, 15 fortresses, thousands of
churches of which 200 are Romanesque, 96 abbeys, 183 sanctuaries, 77 historical theatres that have been completely restored
and that are in use, 315 libraries where ancient books are kept. Rossini is from this region and every August his works are
represented at the Rossini Festival in Pesaro. Many artists were born or have worked in this region: Lorenzo Lotto, Gentile da
Fabriano, Botticelli, just to name a few… The natural sights are wonderful too: the Frasassi caves near Ancona are among
the largest and most impressive in Europe, the white beaches of the Conero on the Adriatic are reminiscent of the Caribbean.
The ancient Greeks founded Ancona at the beginning of the IV century B.C. and introduced viticulture. Varro and Cato wrote
about the vineyards on the Adriatic coast and Pliny the Elder used to admire the wines of Ancona.
Although the region was ravaged by Phylloxera, as the rest of Italy, between the end of the XIX Century and the beginning of
the XX century, the vineyards were rapidly replanted and many of the indigenous varietals survived. French varietals were
introduced in mid 1800s to Civitanova by Paul Hallaire, superintendent of Napoleon the Third, and are still grown at the estate
of Boccadigabbia, which was part of the 100 poderi (100 holdings) of the Bonaparte Administration.
The vast offer of different wines is perfectly matched by the vast offer of the cuisine and gastronomic products of the Region:
Vincisgrassi a regional version of lasagne (named after the Austrian prince Windisch-Graetz who was greatly impressed by this
dish when he arrived in Ancona in 1799 to free the city from the Napoleonic troops), the delicious Olive Ascolane (large green
olives stuffed with herbs, meat and cheese and fried), Ciauscolo (a soft and spicy salame), the many wonderful fish dishes (the
Marche is the third largest fishing region in Italy).
Our portfolio offers an overview of the best wines made from the most significative varietals: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and
Verdicchio di Matelica made with the homonymous varietal, Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero mainly Montepulciano, Pergola
Rosso made with Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola (an ancient varietal that is actually a clone of Aleatico) and the wines made with the
French varietals introduced under Napoleon the Third.
◊
106
Montepulciano
Sangiovese
Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola
Verdicchio
107
Azienda Agricola
Marche
For many reasons Boccadigabbia is one of the most interesting domaines in the Marche region. Until 1950 the estate belonged
to Prince Luigi Girolamo Napoleon Bonaparte, direct descendant of the Napoleon we all know. In fact, ever since the early 19th
century, French grapes were planted at Boccadigabbia under the Napoleonic administration, varietals the locals described as
“bordò” and “francesi” - a heritage unfortunately totally lost in the breakdown of the imperial properties that ended in their sale.
It, then, makes perfect sense that Elvio Alessandri, the present owner, decided to plant Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot
Gris, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon alongside the traditional Sangiovese, Ribona, Montepulciano and Verdicchio: the choice
had a historical as well as qualitative significance.
Elvio’s son Lorenzo works full time at the estate, the vineyards are supervised by the agronomist Luca Severini and the cellars
are managed by the oenologist Francesco Pennesi with the consultancy of the well known oenologist Emiliano Falsini.
The 23 hectares of vineyards stand on hills in two separate zones, Civitanova and Macerata. The zone of Civitanova is right on
the sea, the soil is sandy and clayey, the exposure is a lovely south and the altitude is approximately 70 meters above sea level.
The hills of the zone of Macerata, 30 kilometers inland, are higher, about 200 meters above sea level, the exposures are various,
the soil is also sandy and clayey. The summer in both zones is warm and the winter, due to the proximity of the sea, is mild.
The international grape varieties are grown in Civitanova, while the Italian varieties are grown in Macerata. The vine training
systems are cordon spur and Guyot, the vineyard density is about 3,600 vines/hectare. The estate takes part in a programme
financed by the Marche Region for viticulture with a low environmental impact, so that the practices in the vineyard are strictly
environment friendly.
There are two cellars, an extremely modern one in Civitanova, which was completed in 2010, and an older one in Macerata, that
was bought together with the vineyards by Elvio in 1996. The cellar in Civitanova is on two levels, the top level for vinification,
bottling and storage, the lower level for ageing. An electronic panel controls the steel vinification vats and also the humidity of
the ageing cellar where the wine rests in French oak barriques. The ceiling of the ageing cellar is made of copper that does not
generate electrostatic charge. The cellar in Macerata is equipped with steel vats, glazed concrete vats, barriques and a bottling
plant.
Cold maceration with the skins before fermentation is carried out both for the whites and the reds, the alcoholic fermentation
(together with the maceration with the skins) of the reds is short. A minimal quantity of SO2 is used in the wines as they are
vinified, aged and bottled in the cellar next to the vineyards, so that the wine is racked very little and it is only moved when
already in the bottle.
The philosophy is to maintain tradition with the aid of modern technology, but also to maintain the particular character of the
wines made with the Italian and international grape varieties of the estate. The international varieties have now been grown
at Boccadigabbia for over 100 years and have adapted to this zone producing wines that have a definite typicality. Elvio has
certainly succeeded in producing a multifaceted and lovely range of wines!
◊
108
Marche IGT
Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte
Zone: Civitanova Marche
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Marche IGT
Sangiovese Saltapicchio
Zone: Macerata
Rosso Piceno DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Civitanova Marche
Montepulciano, Sangiovese
6.5 hectares
60,000 bottles
Marche Bianco IGT
Garbì
Zone: Civitanova Marche, Macerata
Varietals: 40% Chardonnay,
40% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Verdicchio
109
Azienda Agricola
Marche
Verdicchio is a commonplace name among wine consumers. But few, even among the experts, know that there are two appellations
where Verdicchio is produced - Castelli di Jesi and Matelica - both employing the same Verdicchio varietal, but yielding wines
so radically different as to really call for a more definite distinction than the one employed today.
The wines from the Castelli di Jesi appellation are responsible for Verdicchio’s reputation as a supremely drinkable wine of
refreshing simplicity and very affordable price.
Verdicchio di Matelica is still virtually unknown outside of its appellation, a very small township couched in the hilly rural
central part of the Marche region. The Bisci estate is without doubt Matelica’s finest expression, its owners devoted solely to
quality: rigorously enforcing short pruning and the strictest cluster selection during harvest; bottling only wine from first run
must, and actually skipping vintages when not entirely satisfied with the final result. Releasing their Verdicchio (they produce a
regular, a single vineyard and a riserva) after most others have already been consumed, the Bisci estate makes a clear statement
as to the character of its wines. These wines are rich, creamy, engagingly structured of remarkable amplitude and length on the
palate. When young the bouquet has varietal grassy qualities backed by a spicy nature that with age evolves into complex and
seductive resinous suggestions, displaying characteristics so bold and distinctive as to warrant a redefinition of both varietal
and wine.
Bisci also produces a Passito (100% Verdicchio) and three Marche Rosso IGT: “Villa Castiglioni” (70% Sangiovese and 30%
Merlot), “Fogliano” (a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot) and “Piangifame” (100% Sangiovese and only made in the best
vintages) .
◊
110
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Vigneto Fogliano
Zone: Matelica
Cru: Fogliano
Varietal: 100% Verdicchio
Marche Rosso IGT
Villa Castiglioni
Zone: Matelica
Varietals: 70% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Marche Rosso IGT
Piangifame
Matelica
100% Verdicchio
10 hectares
46,700 bottles
Certified Organic
Zone: Matelica
111
Marche
Fattoria Le Terrazze which has belonged to the Terni family since 1882 is situated on the foothills of Monte Conero. When the
‘mezzadria’ share-cropping system ended in the 1960’s and with the advent of the Rosso Conero DOC regulation, a new chapter
was opened on the farm when Antonio’s father, then owner, decided to concentrate on the production of quality wines capable
of competing with nationwide and international markets. Rosso Conero, or at least its ancestor, has been produced in this small
hilly enclave since Roman times, suggesting long-standing evidence of viticulture in the area. The farm is perched on a hilltop
less than two kilometers from the coast and is composed of a large 18th century building which hosts both the bottle storage area
and the barrel room where the wine is aged. Fermentation takes place in a modern building which was built on the premises in
1982.
The 1980’s mark a turning point for the winery when the present owners, Antonio nuclear physicist and Bob Dylan fanatic and
his wife Georgina, transformed the winery into one of the best examples of its kind in the Conero area. In 1995 they decided to
plant an experimental vineyard with the idea of producing some new clones of the Montepulciano grape variety. Later, between
1999 and 2001 most of the old Montepulciano vineyards were replanted using the newly acquired clones. A few hectares of
Merlot and Syrah were also planted in that period. In 2010 the Chardonnay vineyard was also replanted, this time on a cooler
north-facing slope.
The most common grape variety grown on the premises is Montepulciano which stretches across 10.8 hectares of land. There
are also 2.6 hectares of Merlot and Syrah and 2.2 hectares of Chardonnay. The density of the vines is calculated at 5,700 vines
per hectare, mostly trained with the spurred cordon. Great attention is given to selection of the grapes, allowing a maximum
yield of between 5-7 tons per hectare. Grapes are harvested by hand, collected in 20 kg boxes and immediately brought to the
fermentation building for crushing.
The winery is designed with the object of allowing the greatest accuracy in winemaking. Great care is taken in the barrel room
to ensure the best conditions during the aging process and particular attention is paid to the task of selecting the best wines to
be matured in barriques of Allier oak.
Two of Fattoria Le Terrazze’s wines are made entirely from Montepulciano grapes: Rosso Conero DOC and Sassi Neri Conero
DOCG Riserva. Praeludium, a younger and lighter version of Rosso Conero is produced with Montepulciano blended with 15%
of Syrah grapes. Chaos IGT is made from Montepulciano/ Merlot/ Syrah grapes. The Donna Giulia classical method sparkler
is also Montepulciano based, using free-run must. To complete the range: Chardonnay IGT Le Cave and PinkFluid rosé made
from Syrah grapes.
Georgina and Antonio are supported by the talented and well-known winemaker and agronomist Federico Curtaz.
◊
112
Conero DOCG Riserva
Sassi Neri
Zone: Numana
Varietal: 100% Montepulciano
Marche Rosso IGT
Chaos
Zone: Numana
Varietals: 50% Montepulciano,
25% Merlot, 25% Syrah
Rosso Conero DOC
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Numana
100% Montepulciano
7.5 hectares
44,700 bottles
Rosso Conero DOC
Praeludium
Zone: Numana
15% Syrah
113
Marche
I get great deal of pleasure poring over the varied and unique histories of the people and farms with which I work. So many
reach back to Renaissance and Medieval times involving generations upon generations of families, some noble, some not, all
fascinating. But the saga of the owners of this estate, the Lucangeli Aymerich di Laconi lineage, takes the cake.
The Aymerichs were originally Ostrogoths who descended into the Iberian peninsula at the time of the German tribal migrations.
By the turn of the last Millennium they had arrived in Sardinia. The activities recorded in Catalonia reveal participation
in the reconquest of Lerida in 1140 and Valencia in 1239. An Aymerich named Guillermo, during the conflict between the
excommunicated King Pedro and Charles of Valois brokered the papal truce in 1283. In 1286, at the court of Aragon, Arnaldo
arbitrated Alfonso IIIs claim to the throne. By 1476 their coat of arms included Aragon and Sicily and Emperor Charles V in
1535 granted the addition of the imperial two-headed eagle and the extraordinary right for the nobility to pass through the
females of the family. All Dons and Donnas with a capital D - Grandees of Spain 1st class! Through the centuries we find
Knights of the highest order in Spain and Italy, Governors, Viceroys, Bishops and Senators. Aymerich became one of the most
important names of Sardinia. Did I say names? Marchese di Laconi, Count of Villamar, Viscount of Valuri, Baron of Ploaghe,
Lord of Stuanu, Crastu, Lionesu, Riutortu and Montis di Ledda. But what brought us together was the connection of Aymerich
to the Lucangeli of the Marche: Stefano marries Beatrice (who sadly recently passed away).
The Tavignano estate has been fully reconstructed: villa, surrounding houses, and most importantly the vineyards and cellars.
The total vineyard extension is 30 hectares of which 15 planted with Verdicchio and the rest dedicated to red grape varieties.
Verdicchio in the Jesi area contrasts sharply with that of Matelica. Instead of massive structure, straw colours, exotic bouquets
and weighty mouth-feel, Jesi offers less musculature, greener tints, aromas of flowers and fresh fruit, a crisp palate sensation
closing with a hint of bitter almonds. Tavignano’s single vineyard Misco Verdicchio (also produced as a Riserva), however, is
rich - but deliciously plump rather than heavy.
◊
114
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
Superiore DOC Misco
Zone: Cingoli, Jesi
Cru: Misco
DOC Riserva Misco
Zone: Cingoli, Jesi
Cru: Misco
Superiore DOC Villa Torre
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Cingoli, Jesi
100% Verdicchio
8 hectares
40,000 bottles
Rosso Piceno DOC Cervidoni
Zone: Cingoli, Jesi
25% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauv.
115
Marche
The Tonelli family have been vignerons for three generations. In 1985 Francesco, an agronomist and a sommelier, decided to
leave his job as a teacher and to dedicate himself completely to viticulture and wine making: he searched for rare and old vines
of Vernaccia Rossa - a clone of Aleatico grown in the area since 1234 when the town of Pergola was founded by the inhabitants
of Gubbio - and had them reproduced by specialised nurseries. He also helped to establish the tiny “Pergola” appellation (of
a total vineyard extension of barely 45 hectares and made up of just 3 producers). Francesco is supported by his son Stefano,
an oenologist, who, after having worked for a few wineries in Australia, is now helping his father with passion and dedication.
The Pergola Rosso wines are delicate, they are unique: rose petals, wild strawberries, raspberries and many other aromas delight
the nose, they are fresh and harmonic in the mouth. The must ferments in temperature controlled steel vessels, malo-lactic takes
place in glazed cement tanks, after which the wine rests in the bottle for a few months. “Grifoglietto” is made from a vineyard
that can be defined a “cru” with vines that are over 50 years old. “Vernaculum” is made from vineyards in the districts of
Montalfoglio and of Montevecchio.
Two passiti can also be tasted: one 100% Vernaccia rossa di Pergola and one mainly Biancame (an indigenous white varietal of
the Marche) vinified and matured in “caratelli”, small 50 and 100 litre oak barrels.
These wines prove the diversity of terroirs in Italy and how one can always be amazed and delighted by their offspring!
◊
116
Pergola Aleatico Superiore DOC
Grifoglietto
Zone: Grifoleto, Pergola
Cru: Grifoleto
Varietal: 100% Vernaccia Rossa di Pergola
(Aleatico clone)
Pergola Passito DOC
Aprico di Grifoglietto
Zone: Grifoleto, Pergola
Cru: Grifoleto
Varietal: 100% Vernaccia Rossa di
Pergola
(Aleatico clone)
Pergola Aleatico DOC Vernaculum
Zone:
Montalfoglio, Montevecchio,
Grifoleto - Pergola
Varietal:
100% Vernaccia Rossa di
Pergola (Aleatico clone)
Passito Ambreo di Grifoglietto
Zone: Montalfoglio, Grifoleto - Pergola
Cru: Grifoleto
Varietals: 90% Biancame,
10% Moscato Bianco
117
UMBRIA
Umbria, “the green heart of Italy”, is one of the smallest regions in the country and it is the only one that is landlocked. It is
mainly hilly and mountainous and the river Tiber flows in the middle. Be sure to include this region during one of your trips to
Italy: its artistic and natural sights are breathtaking, the food is divine and the wines are wonderful! Every time one visits this
region one discovers something new: did you know, for example, that there is a whole underground town below Orvieto? The
“Orvietani” used to hide there in the old days during sieges sometimes for months. There is also a flower mill dating back to the
Medieval times! Or, if you like water sports, go rafting or kayaking on the Nera river which is right under the Marmore falls
(165 meters high). Each town of this region is a jewel and luckily modern urbanization has not been so disruptive as it has been
in other parts of Italy.
The history of wine here is ancient: the Etruscans grew vines since the VII Century B.C. and the wine was used for religious
purposes. Viticulture was then continued by the Romans and by the Cistercian monks and by the followers of Saint Benedict
of Norcia. The Papal States ruled from the XIV till the XVIII Century and the wines of Orvieto in particular were the ones
appreciated by the various popes. Luca Signorelli, who painted the beautiful frescoes of the Duomo of Orvieto, was granted
1,000 litres every year of the local wine as payment for his services. In those days vinification took place in subterranean tuff
(“tufo”) caves where the temperature was low and even throughout the year. Consequently the alcoholic fermentation never was
completed and the wines remained sweet.
To experience Umbrian cuisine is like going back in time: all dishes have a different, more authentic, taste. This region is famous
for its pork products and Norcia is renowned for its delicious prosciutto and various other cured pork meat products. “Norcino”
(inhabitant of the town of Norcia) has become a synonym for a person who cures pork meat. One can also find heavenly black
and white truffles. Try the mouth watering “bruschetta al tartufo” (toasted slices of bread with black truffles, garlic and olive
oil) or the “pizza pasqualina” a sort of “panettone” made with cheese that is eaten at Easter. Although Umbria is famous for
meat and game, one can find very good freshwater fish in the delightful little towns around the Trasimeno lake.
Our portfolio offers you the wines of the Fratelli Pardi estate in Montefalco, a historical Umbrian town with an ancient
viticultural and winemaking tradition.
◊
118
Sagrantino
Sangiovese
Procanico
Grechetto
Verdello
Drupeggio
Malvasia Toscana
119
Umbria
Cantina
The origin of Sagrantino is uncertain: in Naturalis Historia Pliny the Elder mentioned the Itriola grape grown within the
area where Sagrantino di Montefalco is now produced, but it is likely that this varietal was brought by the Franciscan monks
returning from their travels in Asia Minor in the XIV-XV century.
Montefalco, one of the few towns in Italy where vineyards were planted within the city walls, boasts a very old tradition in
viticulture and winemaking: already in 1400s laws regulated this sector and starting from 1640 the beginning of harvest was
established by a decree of the town council.
Moreover, the agricultural planning of the XV century can be seen in the wonderful frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli of the
Monastery of San Francesco, in the cellars of which the great-grandparents of the present owners used to vinify their grapes
from 1919 to 1945. The wines were then sold throughout Umbria and in the Vatican City. After 1945 the family decided only to
sell grapes up to 2002 when a new winery was established and wine started being bottled again.
The Pardi family has owned a textile factory for three generations, the only one in Umbria where cotton and linen are still woven
with traditional mechanical looms, and the same passion and research for beauty and perfection can be now found in the wines.
Six different wines are made: a Sagrantino secco (matured in wood for 18 months, robust, but elegant, with a fantastic nose
of red berries with slightly spicy notes); “Sacrantino” a single vineyard Sagrantino secco (matured in wood for 18 months); a
Sagrantino Passito (made with grapes that are dried for two months on straw mats before being pressed, it is sweet, intense,
fruity, ideal with desserts or cheese); a delicious Montefalco Rosso (a blend of mainly Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Sagrantino), a Montefalco Bianco (60% Grechetto, 25% Trebbiano and 15% Chardonnay), a Trebbiano Spoletino
and a Grechetto.
◊
120
Montefalco Rosso DOC
Zone: Montefalco
Varietals: 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino,
15% Merlot and Cabernet Sauv.
Montefalco Bianco DOC
Colle di Giove
Zone: Montefalco
Varietals: 60% Grechetto,
25% Trebbiano Spoletino,
15% Chardonnay
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montefalco
100% Sagrantino
6.93 hectares
12,000 bottles
Sagrantino di Montefalco
Passito DOCG
Zone: Montefalco
Varietal: 100% Sagrantino
121
LAZIO
Our selection offers you wines made in Colle Mattia, a historical area within the Frascati DOC appellation in the beautiful
Castelli Romani zone. Vines were grown here since the ancient Roman times due to the fertile volcanic soil and the mild climate.
The wines were praised by the ancient Roman poets and historians, by popes and cardinals who had luxurious villas in this
lovely part of Italy.
The wines of the “Castelli Romani”, in the modern times, were, and still are in most cases, produced on a large scale without
much attention to quality. Now many producers are carrying out a strict selection of the clones of the indigenous varietals,
such as Malvasia del Lazio and Cesanese, which together with careful practices in the vineyards and in the cellar result in very
interesting and high quality wines.
The cuisine in this region, and in this area, due to the history of Lazio, is hearty, but basically “poor”, it is also greatly
influenced by the Jewish cuisine (in Rome there is one of the most ancient Jewish communities in the world). There is great use
of innards and of second choice parts of beef: such as “coda alla Vaccinara” (stewed ox tail), “pajata” arrosto (roasted veal
intestines). Vegetables and pulses have a very important part in the gastronomy: “carciofi alla Giudia” (artichokes cooked in
oil, an ancient Jewish recipe), “puntarelle” (the tips of a particular type of chicory served with a sauce made with anchovies,
garlic and olive oil), “vignarola” (a delicious pulse stew) just to name a few dishes. As there were many sheperds here, lamb
dishes, such as “abbacchio a scottadito” can be enjoyed in the local restaurants. Needless to say that you should include the
“Castelli Romani” in one of your trips to Italy!
◊
122
Cesanese
Sangiovese
Trebbiano
Malvasia del Lazio
Malvasia di Candia
123
Lazio
Although we successfully worked with the wines of Villa Simone for over a decade, we decided to follow Piero Costantini’s
nephew and winemaker Lorenzo when he purchased, with his wife Fulvia, a small estate in Colle Mattia, one of the oldest areas
of wine production in Frascati. The limited production, just 50,000 bottles, and the fact that Lorenzo is concentrating all his
efforts and talents in the production of his own wines, convinced us to include his azienda agricola in our selection.
Lorenzo graduated at the Istituto di San Michele all’Adige (one of the best schools in Italy for viticulture and oenology) and
worked as director of the famous Tenuta Ca’ Bolani in Friuli and then for his family’s estate in Frascati.
Lorenzo and Fulvia’s vineyards stand in a zone where the historical estates of Frascati are located as the altitude (350 meters
above sea level) and a perfect exposure make it ideal for viticulture: in fact the high temperature during the day and the
cool nights favour aromas, while the volcanic/clayey soil, rich in minerals, and in potassium in particular, makes the wines
particularly sapid. The azienda is tiny, the vineyard extension is only 5.5 hectares, sustainable practices are followed and only
sulphur and copper base products are used. Bottles are stored in the hand hewn tufo (tuff) caves on the estate. In the old days
one third of the whole production of Frascati wine was vinified in these vaults, 15 meters underground.
Two wines are produced, a lovely and elegant Frascati Superiore (DOCG from the 2012 vintage) and a supple and fruity IGT red
(a blend of mainly Sangiovese and Cesanese), first release the 2007 vintage.
Lorenzo has also released two IGT/proprietary wines: a white (a blend of Malvasia del Lazio and Sauvignon Blanc) and a red (a
blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot) from vineyards of a friend of his in the Maremma Laziale (province of Latina). The vineyards
are in a lovely position facing the sea. The soil here is clayey and, although the climate can get very warm, the area has an
excellent ventilation. The grapes are then vinified at a local winery for which Lorenzo consults.
◊
124
Borgo del Cedro Lazio Rosso IGT
Zone: Colle Mattia, Frascati
Varietals: 45% Cesanese, 45% Sangiovese,
10% Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauv.
Borgo del Cedro Lazio IGT
Malvasia Sauvignon
Zone: Latina
Varietals: 50% Malvasia del Lazio,
50% Sauvignon Blanc
Borgo del Cedro Frascati Superiore DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Colle Mattia, Frascati
30% Trebbiano, 30%Malvasia del
Lazio, 40% Malvasia di Candia
125
ABRUZZO
This beautiful region is geographically in central Italy (although it is considered part of southern Italy by the Italian Statistical
Authority) and it faces the Adriatic sea with approximately 150 kilometres of coast. It is also one of the most mountainous regions
of the peninsula with many sky resorts and three national parks where one can sight chamois, bears, wolves and golden eagles.
An unforgettable experience is to go on a cross-country skiing excursion in the parks (there are guides who can take you) in early
spring when there is still snow: crocuses grow where the snow has melted and tracks of many animals can be found. Abruzzo
is impressive also from an artistic point of view. Sadly the town of l’Aquila, with its lovely churches and monuments, was badly
damaged by an earthquake in 2009 during which 308 people lost their lives and 1,600 people were badly injured. This region
was one of the poorest in Italy till a few decades ago and many “Abruzzesi” had to migrate to other regions of Italy or abroad in
order to find work. Luckily the economy gradually got better and it is now one of the best in the southern area of Italy. The wines
of this region were very much appreciated by the ancient Romans. Viticulture and wine making were then depressed due to the
barbarian invasions, but subsequently picked up thanks to the monasteries and flourished during the Renaissance. This region,
as the rest of Italy, was ravaged by Phylloxera at the beginning of the 1900s and unfortunately many indigenous varietals were
lost. Consequently Montepulciano and Trebbiano became the main varieties of this region and were grown focussing on quantity
rather than on quality. Luckily many producers have inverted this trend and the quality of the wines of Abruzzo has now greatly
improved. Indigenous varietals, such as Pecorino, Passerina and Cococciola are now grown again. The cuisine of this region
is extremely varied and has a lot to offer: delicious fish specialties on the coast, meat dishes, salami (try the “mortadella di
Campotosto” better known as “coglioni di mulo” or “mule’s balls”) and cured meat, fruit and vegetables in the inner zones. The
saffron of Novelli is famous and it is found in many lovely recipes. The olive oil of Abruzzo has gained three DOP (denominazione
di origine protetta – protected origin denomination) for the “Aprutino Pescarese”, “Colline Teatine” and “Preturziano delle
Colline Teramane” olive oils. This is certainly a region to explore!
◊
126
Montepulciano
Pecorino
Cococciola
127
Abruzzo
In the unappropriately vast appellation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, where the Montepulciano grape is cultivated in a spectrum
of climates, altitudes and pedological conditions that is boggling in its variety, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo D.O.C. can present
itself to the neophyte with characteristics so varied as to make one wonder why all these radically different wines go by the
same name.
Tocco di Casauria, a small town of the Abruzzi region (in the province of Pescara) has always produced a Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo with qualitative characteristics that brand it as unique among wines produced in other areas of the Abruzzi. Within
this township we find the county of Ceppeto, where the Filomusi Guelfi Estate is situated, and where the microclimate is so
outstanding as to warrant its qualification as a veritable cru.
Filomusi Guelfi’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is blessed with a richness and a depth of colour indeed rare. Its bouquet is powerfully
evocative of cherries and currants, its structure firm and concentrated, its taste ample and generous on the palate with a lingering
finish of berries and liquorice. The cellar is located in an historical building that dates back to the end of the fifteenth century,
but the equipment is extremely modern!
The range of wines of the estate also includes a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore (a cherry
red rosé wine) and two whites: Le Scuderie del Cielo (a blend of Chardonnay, Malvasia Bianca Toscana, Sauvignon Blanc and
Cococciola) and Pecorino (made with the homonimous indigenous varietal).
◊
128
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo
Superiore DOC
Zone: Tocco di Casauria
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Riserva DOC
Zone: Tocco di Casauria
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Tocco di Casauria
Ceppeto
100% Montepulciano
6.8 hectares
45,000 bottles
129
CAMPANIA
Viticulture and wine making are an ancient tradition in Campania: the Greeks founded “Pitechusae” on the island of Ischia
around 770 b.C. and “Cuma” on the coast in 750 b.C., introducing their own vine varietals and probably domesticating types
of vines that were found in the area. Wine was quite different in those days as a number of aromatic herbs, honey and even sea
water were added as preservatives and to counteract acidity. It was also used as a remedy against many ailments (for example
red hot gold leaf was added to ease the suffering of lepers) and to disinfect wounds. During the Roman times, Pompei was
considered the capital of wine and the wines produced in Campania the best (Falerno and Massico were the ones with the
highest reputation) and served at the Roman emperors banquets. The Greeks introduced the art of pruning and, as today, there
were renowned vintages, production zones and even cooperatives. Rome had a port and a market especially dedicated to wine.
It is not by chance that southern Italy was also known as “Enotria” (the land of wine)! Viticulture was especially developed
along the coastal zones as wine was mainly carried on ships stored in clay amphorae (in case you visit the Eolian island of
Lipari, do not miss the archeological museum, where you can see a great number of these amphorae recovered from shipwrecks).
The majority of the indigenous varietals that are grown nowadays in Campania date back to the Roman and Greek period, as
testified by the historians of the time. Although viticulture in this region has had mixed fortunes and many indigenous varietals
were lost especially due to phylloxera (and the late introduction of resistant rootstocks in comparison to the rest of Italy) and to
the decline of agriculture in general, Campania is one of the areas in Italy where the greatest number of autochtonous varietals
have survived. The wine produced with Greco has been celebrated throughout the centuries and the varietal was grown by the
Romans with the name of “Aminea Gemella”; Aglianico (although there are various schools of thought regarding the origin of
the name) is a distortion of “Hellenico” (Greek); Fiano is probably a corruption of “Apianis” (“apis” meaning bee in Latin) a
grape varietal described by Pliny and Columella; Coda di Volpe (meaning fox tail due to the shape of the clusters) is mentioned
by Pliny the Elder in his “Naturalis Historia” as “Cauda Vulpium”; Falanghina may originate from “Falernina” the grape
varietal from which white Falerno was made; Piedirosso is also found in the works of Pliny.
Coastal viticulture, that thrived during the Roman times, was in great part abandoned, also due to the pressure of urban areas,
and this explains why high quality wines are now produced in inland zones such as Irpinia or Benevento. In fact three out of four
appellations that were awarded the DOCG status are in the province of Avellino (i.e. Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di
Tufo), also called Irpinia after the tribe that inhabited this area 3,000 years ago (their totem was the wolf, “hirpus”). This is a
hilly-mountainous area, where winters are relatively mild and summers are cool, there is ideal rainfall and ventilation making
it particularly suitable for viticulture. Harvest is later here in comparison to the rest of Italy, in fact Aglianico is often picked at
the beginning of November under snow. Therefore, the clusters ripen slowly and for a long time resulting in elegant and refined
wines, with a strong personality and that fully express the unusual character of this territory.
Cantina del Taburno, a cooperative that gives technical assistance to 300 small growers in the province of Benevento and that
vinifies the grapes in a modern cellar, is giving great impulse to high quality wine making thanks to Luigi Moio, a well known
and extremely talented oenologist and professor at the University of Naples and now also professor at the Faculty of Oenology
and Viticulture in Avellino.
The estates that have been selected for our portfolio are the ones that best represent the unique and wonderful combination of
knowledge and culture of this land together with the character of these ancient grape varietals: please try and taste all this in a
glass of wine of the Taurasi, or of the Greco di Tufo or of the Lacrima Christi we offer you!
◊
130
Aglianico
Piedirosso
Sciascinoso
Fiano
Greco
Falanghina
Coda di Volpe
131
Azienda Agricola
Campania
The Azienda Vitivinicola Salvatore Molettieri was established in 1983, but viticulture and wine making have been a tradition
of the family for four generations.
The work in the ancient family vineyards and thirty years of experience at the estate are part of the knowledge of Salvatore,
vigneron and wine maker and, thanks to this, the estate now has an important position on the national and international markets.
Salvatore is supported by his four sons, Giovanni (the oenologist and agronomist of the estate), Giuseppe, Luigi and Paolo in the
management of the estate and by his wife Angela, the keeper of the family traditions, and a fantastic cook!
The vineyards of the estate stand on the hills of Montemarano, one of the seventeen small towns which are part of the Taurasi
DOCG appellation. This area is surrounded by mountains which offer protection against winds and hail. It is one of the best
areas for the Aglianico grape variety. The altitude is 500-550 meters above sea level. There is an excellent temperature range
between day and night. It is also an area with an optimal ventilation that prevents disease. The soil is semi-compact clay with
gravel (called rapillo in the local dialect).
The Aglianico vineyards extend for approximately 13 hectares. Vineyards of Greco in Montefusco (within the Greco di Tufo
DOCG appellation) and of Fiano in Lapio (within the Fiano di Avellino DOCG appellation) are contracted.
The “Cinque Querce” vineyard (of approximately 9 hectares), the cru of the estate, stands in the Iampenne district of Montemarano.
A selection of local Aglianico clones is grown here, some vines are pre-phylloxera and they are ungrafted. The vine training
system, previously the traditional “raggiera” (also called “Pergola Avellinese or “Tennecchia”), is now a double modified guyot
in order to ensure a good ripening of the clusters. In the other vineyards the training system is double modified guyot and single
guyot. 4.5 hectares were replanted in the “Cinque Querce” vineyard between 2014 and 2015.
There is great attention to the environment: no weed killers are used, grass is left on the aisles and only copper and sulphur base
products are sprayed. Only organic fertilizer is used every 6-7 years.
The spacious and modern new cellar, a large part of which was built by excavating rock, was completed in 2005. It is equipped
with 100 and 150 hectolitre steel tanks with temperature control, French oak barriques and large oak casks. A part of the large
casks is made of Slavonian oak (50-80 hectolitres) while a part is made of mixed Slavonian and French oak (60-70 hectolitres).
The cellar is also equipped with a bottling and labelling line. Above the cellar a tasting room and a professional kitchen have
been built.
The wines produced are: Taurasi DOCG “Vigna Cinque Querce”, Taurasi DOCG “Vigna Cinque Querce” Riserva, Taurasi
DOCG “Renonno”, Irpinia Aglianico DOC, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Greco di Tufo DOCG. The average total production is
approximately 66,000 bottles/year
“Quality” is the word that defines the philosophy of this estate. Salvatore has reached his aim which is to bring the name of
Montemarano out of the boundaries of Irpinia with his wines.
◊
132
Taurasi DOCG
Riserva Vigna Cinque Querce
Zone: Montemarano
Cru: Cinque Querce
Varietal: 100% Aglianico
Irpinia Aglianico DOC Cinque Querce
Zone: Montemarano
Cru: Cinque Querce
Taurasi DOCG Vigna Cinque Querce
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Montemarano
Cinque Querce
100% Aglianico
3 hectares
15,000-18,000 bottles
133
Campania
The estate was established in 1990 by Antonio Caggiano with the help of Professor Luigi Moio, who is one of the major experts
on Aglianico and who still consults for the estate. Antonio is also a professional and very talented photographer. Antonio used
to have a building enterprise and he decided to build a cellar, in 1990, that was supposed to amaze. The cellar, which is hewn in
rock and built underground, is really amazing and was completed in 1995. In the meantime vineyards from the finest crus were
bought and plots of land were purchased and planted with selected clones of Aglianico.
A modern part of the cellar with very modern equipment was designed by Pino and Lorella, both architects and son and daughter
of Antonio, and was completed in 2008. Pino, who has a real passion for wine, is now at the helm with the support of Antonio.
The estate could potentially produce one million bottles/year, but Antonio and Pino have chosen to keep the production at
150,000-160,000 bottles/year.
The Taurasi wine is named after this town in Irpinia which is an important centre for viticulture and wine making. The Aglianico
grape grown in Taurasi has an ancient history dating back to the anicent Greeks. The Taurasi wine was awarded the DOC status
in the 1970s. The production area was extended to 17 communes. In 1993 Taurasi acquired the DOCG status.
The zone of Contrada Sala is airy, the altitude is 350-450 meters above sea level. The exposure is south-west. The great
Aglianico grape finds ideal conditions here. What makes the difference is the soil which is clayey-calcareous. The microclimate
is particularly favourable: it is cool at night and warm during the day so that Aglianico, which is harvested at the end of October,
can ripen slowly and well. In the autumn the colours are wonderful as stated by the photos of Antonio Caggiano which one can
admire at the estate.
The total vineyard extension is 26 hectares, 23 hectares of Aglianico and 3 hectares of Fiano. The vineyards of Aglianico are all
in Contrada Sala, while the Fiano vineyards are in Lapio. Vineyards of Greco (located in Tufo) and vineyards of Falanghina (in
the area of Benevento) are contracted. Disease and pest control is carried out following a programme of the Campania region for
the respect of the environment and for the care of vines. The vines are sprayed with copper and sulphur base products. The aim
of the agricultural practices is to make it possible for the vines to defend themselves. This is obtained by making the roots of
the vines grow deep into the soil, so that the plants are not affected by rain and by high temperature, and by keeping the canopy
and the fruit of the vines well balanced. Spontaneous cover crops are left on the aisles or the soil is tilled depending on the
vineyard. The average grape yield is 6 tons/hectare. There still are a few prephylloxera vines. The age of the vines varies from
10-15-30-40 years. Over the years the hectares of vineyards were increased by carefully studying the characteristics of this zone.
The wines produced are: Taurasi DOCG “Vigna Macchia dei Goti”, Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC “Salae Domini”, Irpinia
Aglianico DOC “Tarì”, Fiano di Avellino DOCG “Béchar”, Greco di Tufo DOCG “Devon”, Irpinia Bianco DOC “Fiagre”,
Campania Falanghina IGT, Passito VDT “Mel”.
“We are not interested in quantity, but in quality” Antonio Caggiano tells us. “Micro per macro. One must read how much work,
suffering and love are in a glass of wine”.
◊
134
Irpinia Aglianico DOC
Tarì
Zone: Taurasi
Cru: Costa
Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC
Salae Domini
Zone: Taurasi
Cru: Sala
Taurasi DOCG Vigna Macchia dei Goti
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Taurasi
Macchia dei Goti
100% Aglianico
4 hectares
14,000 bottles
Fiano di Avellino DOCG
Béchar
Zone: Lapio
Varietal: 100% Fiano
135
Azienda Vinicola
Campania
Gabriella Ferrara and her husband Sergio, who own and manage the estate, are the fourth generation of viticulturists of their
family. Gabriella’s great grandfather planted vines on his property and he used to bring vegetables and wine on foot and with
a donkey to the town of Tufo. The first vintage that was bottled was 1991. Salvatore Molettieri introduced Marco de Grazia to
Gabriella in 1995. The vineyards are managed by Gabriella and by Sergio and they are supported by the well know oenologist
Paolo Caciorgna in the cellar. The total average production is now 50,000 bottles/year
The altitude of the San Paolo district, in the commune of Tufo, where the estate is located, is 500 meters above sea level, the
excellent exposure is east/east-west. The soil is white, clayey and mixed clayey. When the soil is tilled, now and then sulphur
rocks come to the surface as there are sulphur quarries (now closed) nearby. These hills are surrounded by higher mountains
which protect this area. During the summer months it is warm during the day and cool at night and this, as you know, favours
the aroma of the wines. It is also very airy here so that there are no problems with disease nor insect attacks to the vines.
The total vineyards extension is 12.5 hectares: 8 hectares of Greco, 1 hectare of Fiano, 3.5 hectares of Aglianico.
The Greco vineyards are really beautiful, some are bordered by woods, and they are all in the district of San Paolo. The vine
training system is guyot which makes the grapes ripen approximately 15 days earlier in comparison to the traditional systems.
The harvest here starts around the 8-10 of October. A future project is to use the clones of a vineyard with 60-80-90 years old
vines to plant the new vineyards. The Ferrara family has recently purchased 3 new hectares planted with Greco and 0.6 hectares
have been replanted. The age of the vines is from 5 years to 40-60 years. Each year small plots are replanted. Vigna Cicogna, a
vineyard of 1.5 hectares, is the cru if the estate. The vines are between 15 and 60 years old.
The viticultural practices are naturally environment friendly: no weed killers are used, grass is left on the aisles, only sulphur
and copper base products are used. The declivity of the vineyards is quite high so that most practices are carried out by hand.
The Aglianico vineyards are in Montemiletto, within the Taurasi DOCG appellation. The altitude is 500-700 meters, the exposure
is east, the zone is very airy. The soil is white and mixed clayey. The vines are between 10 and 15 years old.
The Fiano vineyards are in the zone of Lapio. The altitude is 500 meters above sea level, the exposure is east. The vines are
approximately 20 years old.
The old part of the cellar dates back to 1860, a new part was added in 1998. The cellar equipment is very modern as Greco grapes
and must tend to oxidize. The red wines mature in new and second use French oak barriques depending on the wine.
The wines produced are: Greco di Tufo “Terre d’Uva” DOCG, Greco di Tufo DOCG “Cicogna”, Campania Aglianico IGT
“Passo del Lupo”, Fiano di Avellino “Sequenzha” DOCG, Campania Greco IGT “Due Chicchi”, Irpinia Aglianico DOC “Quattro
Confini”, Taurasi DOCG “Vigna Quattro Confini”.
“When the wine is fermenting” Gabriella tells us. “we can foresee the quality of the wine that will be made. Il buon giorno
viene dal mattino (a good day can be seen since the morning). We want to maintain the characteristics of the terroir and of the
grape variety. Greco di Tufo must be made only here!”
◊
136
Greco di Tufo DOCG
Cicogna
Zone: San Paolo di Tufo
Cru: Vigna Cicogna
Varietal: 100% Greco
Aglianico Campania IGT
Passo del Lupo
Zone: Montemiletto
Greco di Tufo Terre d’Uva DOCG
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Irpinia Aglianico DOC
Vigna Quattro Confini
San Paolo di Tufo
100% Greco
7.15 hectares
27,000 bottles
Zone: Montemiletto
137
Campania
Fiano is a gentleman’s wine. And it must have always been so. It makes no concessions to today’s ubiquitous “fruitiness”. It
is gentle but firm, smooth, elegant and somewhat reserved. It must be full and rich, but never loud: rather sustained by the
effortless viscosity that is its grip. In aging it gains in stage presence and authority. Authentic Fiano, such as the wine produced
by Clelia Romano whose family has grown grapes for four generations, is a rare wine: then it is fine and subtle and thoroughly
rewarding.
The estate is in Arianiello, a small district located in the higher area of the town of Lapio. Lapio is also where most of the Fiano
di Avellino DOCG wine is produced and it is one of the few zones in Italy with two DOCG appellations, in this case Fiano di
Avellino DOCG and Taurasi DOCG.
This is a family run estate: Clelia’s husband Angelo takes care of the vineyards and their daughter and son, Carmela and
Federico, manage the cellar and the marketing issues. Angelo Pizzi is the consultant oenologist and Maurizio Petrillo is the
consultant agronomist.
The altitude in Arianiello is 600 meters above sea level. The conditions here are ideal for high quality viticulture: there is a wide
temperature range especially in the summer, it is cool at night and warm during the day. The soils are calcareous-clayey with a
good drainage and this zone is very airy. The exposure is a full south.
The 8 hectares of Fiano vineyards stand in Scarpone, Stazzone and Masseria which are subzones of Arianiello. The vines are
10-15-20-25 years old and the training system is guyot with a vineyard density of 2,500 vines/hectare. Each plot has definite
characteristics which contribute to the final blend of the wine. The agricultural practices are strictly sustainable.
The family also owns a small vineyard of 0.5 hectares of Aglianico, where the vines are 15 years old, right next to their home
and one additional hectare of this variety has recently been planted. 4 hectares of Aglianico vineyards in Venticano (a town
within the Taurasi DOCG appellation) are contracted.
The cellar is equipped with a pneumatic press that works in absence of oxygen, stainless steel vats with temperature control, a
bottling and labelling line. The reds are matured in French oak tonneaux and barriques. A minimum quantity of SO2 is added
to the wines.
The wines produced are: Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Taurasi DOCG “Andrea”, Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC “Donna Chiara”,
Greco di Tufo DOCG. The average total production is 50,000-60,000 bottles/year.
◊
138
Taurasi DOCG
Andrea
Zone: Venticano
Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC
Donna Chiara
Zone: Venticano
Fiano di Avellino DOCG
Zone:
Crus:
Colli di Lapio
Scarpone, Chiano, Stazzone,
Compare
Varietal:
100% Fiano
Greco di Tufo DOCG
Alèxandros
Zone: Tufo
Varietal: 100% Greco
139
Campania
Cantina del Taburno, is located at the base of Mount Taburno, an inactive volcano, in the small town of Foglianise, in the province
of Benevento. Mount Taburno is part of “La dormiente del Sannio” (the sleeping woman of the Sannio) so called as its profile
resembles a sleeping woman. The Cantina was established in 1972 as a cooperative with 15-20 associates. In the early 1980s it
was acquired by the Agricultural Consortium of Benevento (established in 1901) and the cellar was enlarged with funds of the
European Community. Dr Nicola De Girolamo, the director, is also the director of the Agricultural Consortium of Benevento.
The grapes that are vinified at Cantina del Taburno come from approximately 400-450 hectares of vineyards, belonging to 330
small viticulturists, standing in the territory of towns in the area of Mount Taburno: Foglianise, Torrecuso, Vitulano, Campoli del
Monte Taburno, Castelpoto, Apollosa, Bonea, Montesarchio, Ponte, Tocco Caudio, Paupisi and Benevento. The viticulturists are
part of a Cooperative and their vineyards are supervised by an agricultural technician (employed by the Cooperative), Alfonso
de Angelis, and by Filippo Colandrea, the on-premise oenologist of Cantina del Taburno. Rita Pessina, a food technologist, is
responsible for laboratory analyses (in a well equipped and modern lab) and for quality issues. Professor Luigi Moio, who is
a very well known University professor and one of the major wine makers in Campania, has consulted at Cantina del Taburno
since 1998. Professor Moio teaches oenology at the University of Naples and is the coordinator of the graduate course for
viticulture and oenology in Avellino. Students from Avellino and from Naples carry out experimental projects, write their
graduation thesis and train here.
The grape varieties grown are mainly indigenous and, as in Irpinia, have an ancient origin. The main red grape variety is
Aglianico, also called Aglianico di Torrecuso. This particular biotype of Aglianico is more similar to the Aglianico grown in the
Vulture (in the region of Basilicata) than to the Aglianico grown in the Taurasi DOCG appellation. In fact the cluster is larger
and the sugar is slightly less concentrated in the berries. The main white variety is Falanghina, widely grown in Campania and
especially in the province of Benevento. It seems that the biotype of Falanghina grown in the area of Benevento is indigenous
of Bonea, a small local town. Other varieties, which all date back to the ancient Greek and Roman times and which are grown
in the Taburno area, are Piedirosso, Sciascinoso (red), Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe (three white varieties). Small quantities of
other Italian and international varieties are also grown.
The impressive and well equipped vinification and ageing cellars were enlarged in the early 1980s.
All the wines of Cantina del Taburno are extremely pleasant to drink, they maintain the characteristics of the ancient zones
where the vineyards stand and the characteristics of the ancient grape varieties they are made from, but at the same time they
can be easily appreciated by the modern Italian and international customers. The total average production is approximately
1 million bottles/year (considering all labels), mainly Falanghina del Sannio DOP and Sannio Aglianico DOP. Aglianico del
Taburno (produced as “Delius” , “Bue Apis” and “Albarosa”, a rosé) acquired the DOCG status starting from the 2011 vintage.
The other wines are Beneventano IGP (non DOC wines). The whites are made with Fiano, Greco and Coda di Volpe, the reds
with Piedirosso and Aglianico. Two sparkling wines are also produced.
◊
140
Sannio Aglianico DOP
Fidelis
Zone: Taburno
Aglianico del Taburno DOP
Bue Apis
Zone: Taburno
Taburno Falanghina del Sannio DOP
Zone:
Taburno
Varietal:
100% Falanghina
Falanghina Spumante
Extra Dry VSQ Folius
Zone: Taburno
Varietal: 100% Falanghina
141
Azienda Vinicola
Campania
“Campania Felix” - joyous Campania - as it was already known 2000 years ago, due to the felicitous nature of its soils and
splendid climate, when its wines were already famous, quoted by Pliny, Horace and Ovid, and exported throughout the Roman
Empire - has long been a love of mine. Not only for the extraordinary nature of its ancient and noble varieties, but also for the
exemplary nature of its people, whose openly friendly character seems to effortlessly combine pride, integrity, unparalleled
musical talent and a peculiarly carefree sort of fatalism: God knows it has to be good for wine.
The De Angelis family displays just such virtues. Combined with the talent and dedication of their winemaker, Angelo Valentino,
they make a formidable team.
Three the wines of my passion in this tiny cellar in the heaven that is Sorrento. Mythical wines, spawned at the foothills of the
Vesuvius; red, white and rosato with the same evocative name: Lacrima Christi. All from timeless varietals, planted there, it
seems, since the beginning of time.
The Lacrima red, a purple son of the Piedirosso grape, flamboyantly spicy and gay, quasi Dionysian in its exhuberant convolutions
on the palate - a dancer of a wine, lightfooted, carefree and effortlessly fragrant. A pure, irrepressible and contagious joy!
The Lacrima Christi white, mainly Coda di Volpe, is a tender, feminine creature, velvety and aromatic. Of a silvery, luminous
nature, it teases and caresses the palate, yielding and holding back at once: simply lovely.
The Lacrima Christi rosato, a blend of Aglianico, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso (an indigenous grape variety of Campania) with
its lovely nose of raspberry and violet and its intense pink colour, is irresistibly fresh and fruity in the mouth.
◊
142
Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio
Bianco DOC
Zone: Boscotrecase sul Vesuvio
Varietals: 80% Caprettone (Coda di Volpe),
20% Falanghina
Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio
Rosato DOC
Zone: Boscotrecase sul Vesuvio
Varietals: 30% Aglianico, 60% Piedirosso,
10% Sciascinoso
Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Boscotrecase sul Vesuvio
70 % Piedirosso, 30% Aglianico
10 hectares
40,000 bottles
143
Vini
Campania
The members of the Iovine family have been viticulturists and have produced wine for four generations since 1890. They own
approximately 15 hectares of vineyards in the Sorrento Peninsula, in Irpinia and in the zone of Benevento, but they also supervise
the vineyards of growers with whom they have worked for many years. Especially in the area of the Sorrento Peninsula, property
is extremely fragmented (some vineyards extend for barely 1 hectare) it is therefore a condicio sine qua non to buy grapes.
The soil is volcanic (made up of deposits of ashes and pyroclastic material from millennia of volcanic eruptions), the vineyards
are steep with a gradient of up to 45% and stand on terraces with a width between 10 and 1.5 meters. The training system is
mainly Pergola Sorrentina, a traditional method which is an integral part of this wonderful landscape. The vineyards can only be
worked, in the best of cases, with motocultivators and with small tractors and, in the most difficult cases, completely by hand.
The harvest is carried out with mules. Needless to say, natural viticulture is pursued and only copper and sulphur base products
are sprayed. The vines (the varietals here are Piedirosso, Aglianico and Sciascinoso also known as Olivella due to the olive shape
of the berries – the average age of the plants is 50 years old) are ungrafted and therefore exclusively Vitis Vinifera Europea,
as phylloxera does not survive in these soils. Each parcel has a little nursery, where the vines with the best characteristics are
propagated by offshoots (called calatoie in the local dialect). The wines are Penisola Sorrentina DOC and made in the Gragnano
and Lettere subzones. Both these zones have a very particular microclimate: the zone of Gragnano is high, the altitude is 400
meters above sea level, it is a natural conch protected by the sea breezes and the Faito mountain creates a wide day-night
temperature range which favours aromatics and fruitiness in the wines. In fact Aniello, the oenologist of the family, told us that
even in very hot summers nobody uses air conditioning here, as the climate invariably cools off in the evening. The zone of
Lettere stands right above the plain of Pompei and it is subject to the sea winds and breezes, the day night temperature range is
narrower and the wines are sapid. The wines of this area are ancient: they were very much appreciated by the Romans who had
numerous country villas where wine was made and also shipped and later the popes used to drink these wines especially in the
summer. These wines can be defined petit vins, they are not wines to be matched with roasts nor they are to be aged, but they
are a good match with pizza and, although they are red, also with fish and vegetable dishes.
We would like to make you try the wines of Iovine and in particular four Penisola Sorrentina DOC of which three are sparkling.
Bear in mind that these are the typical wines of the Neapolitans, the young Gragnano is released a few months after the harvest
for Christmas. The blend is Aglianico and Piedirosso with approximately 10% Sciascinoso (that favours the second fermentation)
for the sparkling wines and 50% Aglianico and 50% Piedirosso for the non sparkling “Terre delle Sirene”. In Terre del Gragnano
the wine referments in the bottle and it is released in April following the harvest. For the other two sparkling wines, the second
fermentation takes place in an autoclave. A traditional method is used to induce the second fermentation: a small quantity of
must of Falanghina and Coda di Volpe (decanted and kept in refrigerated tanks) together with yeast is added. These wines are
extremely drinkable, pleasant, fruity, the Lettere with a more sapid touch and, as stated by a Neapolitan painter of the 1800s,
“one can drink two bottles without going home drunk…”
Our selection also offers the wines from the Benevento and Irpinia areas.
◊
144
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso
Gragnano DOC
Zone: Pimonte, Gragnano (Naples)
Varietals: 60% Piedirosso, 30% Aglianico,
10% Sciascinoso
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso
Lettere DOC
Zone: Lettere, Casola (Naples)
Varietals: 50% Piedirosso, 40% Aglianico,
10% Sciascinoso
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso Gragnano
DOC Terra del Gragnano
Zone:
Varietals:
Pimonte (Naples)
50% Piedirosso, 40% Aglianico,
10% Sciascinoso
Penisola Sorrentina Rosso Sorrento DOC
Terra delle Sirene
Zone: hilly area of the Sorrento Peninsula
Varietals: 50% Piedirosso, 50% Aglianico
145
PUGLIA
Vines were grown and wine was made since 2000 BC by the Phoenicians followed by the ancient Greeks who colonized southern
Italy between the VIII and VII Century BC. The wines of this region were very much appreciated by the ancient Romans as
reported by Pliny the Elder and by other poets and historians of the time. Frederic II Hohenstaufen, who built the beautiful
“Castel del Monte” castle in 1240, was an “ante litteram” wine enthusiast. Viticulture flourished during the medieval times
and in the following centuries. Up to 1919, when unfortunately the vineyards were hit by Phylloxera also in this region, great
quantities of Apulian wine were sent to northern Italy and to France to make up for the lower production due to the terrible
aphid. It then took a lot of hard work and many years in order to replant the vineyards and to recover the grape varieties.
The Apulians give a lot of importance to good food: in fact the cuisine of this region is unique. Just to give you a couple of
examples, during Easter the hostesses of the Apulian “masserie” (or estates) have contests on who can produce the major
amount of courses for the Easter lunch without using a freezer! A McDonald’s restaurant had to close down in the town of
Altamura because the inhabitants, quite rightly so, preferred the autochtonous “focaccia”: pensioners used to buy a piece of
“focaccia” and eat it in the McDonald’s restaurant only because it had air conditioning (the summers are extremely hot in this
region)!
Although wine production in this region has followed criteria of quantity rather than quality for a very long time, many producers
are now focussing on the recovery and improvement of the indigenous varietals and on the production of high quality wines with
extremely interesting results. Our selection offers you lovely wines from two lovely zones: the “Castel del Monte” appellation,
where the homonymous castle stands, and the Salento Peninsula, the “heel of Italy”, where one can visit the breathtaking
baroque town of Lecce.
◊
146
Uva di Troia
Negroamaro
Primitivo
Fiano
147
Puglia
On the Adriatic coast in the region of Puglia about sixty kilometres south of the spur of Italy’s boot lies the port town of Trani.
In full daylight the clean bright whiteness strikes the eye. At sunset, instead of the usual yellow and orange hues, the town turns
a delicate pink. The entire port enclosure is constructed above and below from Pietra di Trani, a local white marble-like stone.
The Romanesque Abbey of Santa Maria di Colonna, of the same reflective stone, rests massively and immaculately at shore’s
edge. Fifteen kilometers inland from Trani, just beyond the town of Corato and rising 300 meters above is the Santa Lucia farm.
A few kilometers further and rising higher, stands the extraordinary octagonal castle built by the Swabian emperor Friedrich II,
visible except on the rare cloudy day. It is from this singular structure that Castel del Monte D.O.C. gets its name. The castle
has recently been included among the UNESCO world heritage sites. Here, the summers are long and hot, so hot that one’s spirit
sags and wilts. The single-level villa of about 300 square meters - from the same Pietra di Trani and dating back to the arrival
of the family - has walls so thick that a complete bathrooom was carved into one. Inside it is cool and in the subterranean cellar
the temperature is never above 16° C, even in the hottest July and August days.
Santa Lucia consists of 15 hectares of vineyard producing approximately 50,000 bottles per harvest. The vineyards are worked
as if they were a garden, by hand and by people who know every plant and the idiosyncrasies of each nook and cranny. Vineyard
density is 5,500 vines per hectare, the vine training system is mainly single Guyot, except for some recently planted Negroamaro
vineyards where the training system is cordon spur.
The vineyards are all in the Santa Lucia district west of Corato and the crus are Melograno, Santa Lucia, Tufaroli and Castigliola.
The red grape of this area is Troia (Troy), which like its western cousins in Campania, Greco and Aglianico, has its origins in
Greek antiquity. The other grape varieties grown at Santa Lucia are Bombino Nero, Negroamaro (both indigenous varieties of
Puglia), Aleatico, Fiano and Malbec.
The main wine is Castel del Monte Rosso DOC (strictly 100% Uva di Troia) also made in the Riserva version.
Aging of Santa Lucia Castel del Monte Rosso is mostly in large Slavonian oak casks and lasts for about 8 months, followed by
12 months in glazed cement tanks, after which it rests in the bottle for further 6/12 months. The Castel del Monte Riserva sees
18 months of French oak barriques and rests 12 months in bottle.
The Rosso is dark and luscious with a medium body betrayed by a full feel on the palate. The Riserva is finer, more tantalizing
and with a longer finish.
The estate also offers three proprietary/IGT wines: “Gazza Ladra” (100% Fiano and named after the opera of Rossini), “Gazza
Nera” (100% Negroamaro) and “Gazza Rubina (100% Aleatico).
Santa Lucia is managed by Roberto Perrone Capano, a trained economist: his family has owned land in this lovely part of Puglia
since 1628! The estate’s winemaker, Emilia Tartaglione, is supported by the oenologist Paolo Caciorgna, who successfully
consults for many southern Italian wineries. The vineyards are supervised by the Tuscan agronomist Alfredo Tocchini.
◊
148
Castel del Monte Rosso DOC
Riserva Le More
Zone: Corato
Cru: Tenuta Castigliola
Varietal: 100% Uva di Troia
Fiano di Puglia IGT
Gazza Ladra
Zone: Corato
Cru: Santa Lucia
Varietal: 100% Fiano
Castel del Monte Rosso DOC
Vigna del Melograno
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Corato
Vigna del Melograno, Viale Nero
100% Uva di Troia
8 hectares
30,000 bottles
Certified Organic
149
Puglia
I met Giordano Emo Capodilista during a sailing cruise at the Egadi islands in Sicily. Giordano, whose mother is from Lecce,
and Francesco Marra, an agronomist and a “DOC Leccese” established the estate in 2005.
Masserie Pizari is in the “heel” of Italy in southern Salento, between Gallipoli and Leuca, in the Feudo d’Ugento (the ancient
“Ozan”) in an area where Negroamaro and Primitivo vines have been grown for centuries, in fact there are 3 hectares of vines
“en goblet” that are over 60 years old. The area is called “Conca d’oro” (Golden Conch) and the soils are clayey, red and rich
in potassium. The vineyards are a few kilometers from the sea and it is rare to find such an extension of agricultural land in this
position. Giordano and Francesco are supported by the oenologist (an “orthodox” oenologist according to Giordano) Andrea
Boaretti, a Venetian who is devoted to the Salento region and who consults for other wineries in Puglia.
The cellars, that have been totally restructured, are located right next to the old Salento “Sud-Est” railway and were built in the
1930s by a Piedmontese who used to grow grapes and send them north.
Only the best clusters are used to make the Salento Rosso Negroamaro, the Salento Rosato Negroamaro and the Salento Rosso
Primitivo; grape yield is kept low (as shown by the production of just 33,000 bottles over 10 hectares) and temperature control
in the vats ensures a perfect fermentation (which is quite an achievement in such a hot climate!). The result is fresh, fruity and
flawless wines that give a pure taste of this secluded and beautiful part of Italy.
◊
150
Salento Rosato IGT
Negroamaro
Zone: Ugento
Varietal: 100% Negroamaro
Salento Rosso IGT
Primitivo
Salento Rosso IGT Negroamaro
Zone:
Ugento
Varietal:
100% Negroamaro
Zone: Ugento
Varietal: 100% Primitivo
151
CALABRIA
Italy is shaped like a boot and Calabria is the point of the boot. The coastline extends for 780 kilometres. 48% of this region is
made up of hills, 41.8% of the surface is made up of mountains. It is a region that, due to its morphological characteristics and
due to the fact that there are no islands off the coast, is quite separate from the rest of Italy.
Our selection offers you wines from a very ancient area, Cirò Marina (in the province of Crotone), that was a Greek colony
called Cremissa. In fact the Cirò wine is the modern version of Krimisa, a wine that was given by the ancient Greeks to the
athletes winners of the Olympic games. During the Byzantine dominion (VI-IX Century A.D.) viticulture flourished and many
Armenian and Georgian grape varieties were introduced into the area. For many years, till phylloxera destroyed the vines, the
wines of Calabria, and of Cirò, were used to improve the wines of Central and Northern Italy because of their intense colour
and because of their high alcohol strength. After phylloxera the vineyards were replanted and the production of quality wines
started again.
The appellation of Cirò D.O.C. dates back to 1969, among the first in Italy. The small zone of Cirò Classico DOC (the zone of
Cirò DOC, without the “classico” indication is instead very extended) only includes the communes of Cirò and of Cirò Marina.
The main grape varieties that go into Cirò Rosso and Cirò Bianco are respectively Gaglioppo and Greco Bianco. Gaglioppo is
an ancient variety which expresses its full potential on the hills of Cirò Marina, due to the sea breezes and the clayey-calcareous
soils. The area is also protected by the Sila plateau, about 60 kilometers inland. Greco Bianco (at least 85% is compulsory in
the Cirò Bianco D.O.C.) was brought to this area by the ancient Greeks. The shape of the cluster of Greco Bianco is different
to the one of the other types of Greco, such as, for example, the Greco from which the Greco di Tufo wine of Campania is made.
The wines that we have chosen for you are made in a small certified organic estate, owned and managed by an extremely
dedicated and talented oenologist/viticulturist.
◊
152
Gaglioppo
Greco Nero
Greco Bianco
Mantonico Bianco
153
Calabria
The estate is located in northern Calabria on the Ionian sea coast. It is a hilly area right on the sea and the Sila plateau, the most
extended plateau in Europe (150,000 hectares!), stands approximately 60 kilometres inland.
The members of the Calabretta family have been viticulturists for four generations and have produced wine since the 1970s.
The father of the present owner, Cataldo Calabretta, had a vine nursery. Cataldo studied oenology and viticulture in Milan and
worked for various estates in Italy from 2000 to 2008. In 2008 he established this estate with his sisters Maria and Michela.
Between 2008 and 2012 the old cellar was restructured together with the existing glazed concrete vats (these are frequently
found in the cellars of southern Italy).
In 2012 the Cirò Rosso Classico was bottled for the first time, an ancient wine the origin of which goes back to the Greeks
and the Bizantines. This Cirò is made exclusively with Gaglioppo grapes, the vineyards stand on hills (the average altitude is
approximately 150 meters above sea level) and the vines are freestanding. Cataldo says that his Cirò is the expression of the
century old experience of the “Cirotani” viticulturists and that is why the “arciglione”, an instrument used to prune freestanding
vines in this area, is designed on the label of his wines.
The estate is certified organic, only green manure (mainly leguminous plants) is used as fertilizer and only copper and sulphur
base products are sprayed. The vineyards are worked strictly by hand. There is no use of insecticides as there is no need, the area
being very ventilated. Only wild yeasts are responsible for the fermentation of the wines and the vats of the cellar are equipped
with temperature control.
Cataldo also makes a Cirò rosato (100% Gaglioppo), a Cirò Bianco (95% Greco Bianco and 5% Malvasia), a rosato made with
Alicante (which is the name for Grenache in southern Italy), a passito made with Malvasia and a white made with Ansonica. ◊
154
Cirò Rosato DOC
Zone: Cirò Marina (Crotone)
Varietal: 100% Gaglioppo
Cirò Bianco DOC
Varietals: 95% Greco Bianco,
5% Malvasia
Cirò Rosso Superiore Classico DOC
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Cirò Marina (Crotone)
100% Gaglioppo
11 hectares
3,300 bottles
Calabria Bianco Ansonica IGP
Varietal: 100% Ansonica
155
SICILY
Sicily, due to its history, its art and its climatic, geographic and geological characteristics is very different from the rest of Italy
and more than a region it could be considered a “universe”.
Fruit and vegetables have another taste here and to sample the dishes of the extremely diverse and rich Sicilian traditional
cuisine is an unforgettable experience: the influence of the Greek, Arab, Spanish, and French dominations mingle and result in
flavours that are impossible to find anywhere else. The original recipes are improved as, for example, fish couscous which is a
Sicilian “piatto forte”. Even the salt from the ancient saltworks of Mothia near Trapani is one of the most flavourful of the whole
Mediterranean. And what to say about the divine “granite” (crushed ice flavoured with fruit or almond paste) or the mouthwatering “gelo di melone” (a delicious watermelon jelly)?
Fossil vines, dating back to the tertiary period, were found on the slopes of the Etna. Before the Greeks (who occupied Sicily
between 800 and 500 b.C. and who improved viticulture and wine making), vines were grown by the “Siculi” a population from
peninsular Italy. They used to venerate “Adranos”, the god of wine (and Adrano is the name of a large town on the southern
slopes of the Etna), long before the introduction of the Greek “Dionysos”.
Sicilian wines started being exported throughout the Mediterranean during the IV century b.C. and were greatly appreciated by
the Romans.
Under the Arab domination viticulture was restricted to the production of raisins (hence the name “uva sultanina” meaning
“sultan’s grape”) even though the population continued to drink wine (its consumption was forbidden in public). Strangely
enough the Arabs introduced the technique of distilling wine and pomace, but mainly for medicinal purposes.
Fortunately there were better times for wine: in 1700s and 1800s wines from the Etna were exported to the whole of Europe from
the port of Riposto, and Marsala wine has become famous thanks to John Woodhouse, Benjamin Ingham and Vincenzo Florio.
Phylloxera that ravaged the island in 1880-1881 and the recent massive introduction of international grape varietals sadly
caused the loss of many indigenous Sicilian grape varietals, that had adapted to the climatic and soil conditions over the
centuries. Although the Sicilian territory would be more suitable for the production of red wines, 75% of the varietals at present
grown are white.
The production of bulk wine is still predominant and the growers who bottle are a small percentage, but there is now more
awareness of the value of autochtonous grapes and many more high quality wines are being made.
We would like to invite you to taste the “real thing” having selected estates in the zones where indigenous varietals have
survived and where wine is still made respecting tradition: the Etna, the island of Pantelleria, the area of Trapani and that of
Ragusa. These areas are profoundly different the one from the other and give you an idea of how unique the island of Sicily
is. All this is reflected in the wines: your senses can be intrigued by a “burgundian” Etna Rosso, a luscious Nero d’Avola or a
sensuous Passito di Pantelleria!
◊
156
Nerello Cappuccio
Nerello Mascalese
Nero d’Avola
Frappato
Grillo
Catarratto
Carricante
Moscato Bianco
Moscato di Alessandria
157
Sicily
Tenuta delle Terre Nere is the fruit of over 30 years of passion and work in the world of fine wine. And an extraordinary location,
as well - this “island within an island” that is the Etna – that my brother and I chose. And that, I sometimes believe, actually
chose us. A place where nature is prodigal but also severe. And here I try with all my heart to express as purely as possible the
refined and multifaceted microcosm of this ancient volcanic land. With respect, care and hard farm work, always in organic
balance.
The estate is located on the northern slopes of the volcano, with vineyards between the village of Solicchiata and the town of
Randazzo, the area historically recognized as the finest in the appellation for fine red wines. The property consists of over 30
hectares, divided into 10 parcels in four crus, with a total vineyard surface of 23 hectares, which we mean to enlarge to 30-32
hectares. Except for 6 hectares recently planted, the vines of the rest are between 50 and 100 years old. The vines of one parcel,
having survived phylloxera, have reached the venerable age of 130-140 years old. The soils differ very much from cru to cru,
and even within the crus themselves. The same is true of the altitudes, our vineyards ranging between 600 and 1,000 metres
above sea level.
Four parcels lie in Calderara Sottana at an elevation of 600-700 metres. By far the rockiest cru in the appellation, in the roughest
parts you can’t see the soil for the black volcanic pumice carpeting the vineyards.
Two vineyards lie in Guardiola, between 800 and 900 metres altitude, on very poor soil: volcanic sand mixed with basaltic
pebbles and traces of ash. Both are steeply sloped and tightly terraced, causing all vineyard work to be done manually.
Two more properties lie in Feudo di Mezzo. Very old vines, also terraced, traditional alberello plantings, very tightly spaced,
also worked exclusively by hand. Loose deep volcanic ash roughed up by a good measure of small volcanic pebbles.
In Santo Spirito we have two vineyards as well. Although adjacent to Guardiola, the soil is dramatically different: a rich deep
volcanic ash so fine as to call to mind talcum powder, were it not jet black.
Besides estate owned vineyards, Terre Nere has long term leases on 4 hectares and buys grapes from small local vignerons who
follow our organic procedures.
All our wines are produced from local varieties, and all are D.O.C. Etna. We produce two versions of Etna Bianco. One from a
field blend of Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia and Grecanico. The other, from Carricante alone, is barrel fermented.
Our remarkable Etna Rosso issues from both old and young vines of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio throughout our
properties, and some acquired grapes as well.
The very much sought after Etna Rosato, cherished for its luminous and mineral nature, is also produced from Nerello Mascalese.
The very finest grapes from the oldest vines in our four crus are vinified and bottled separately after 16-20 months of wood
aging. These single-vineyard bottlings represent the finest expression of the Etna appellation.
Finally, a word must be spent on our Etna Rosso Prephylloxera. Born of a tiny parcel in Calderara Sottana, whose vines survived
phylloxera, it is the quintessence of Nerello Mascalese and Calderara Sottana, and by extension, the heart and soul of this
volcanic terroir.
◊
158
Etna Bianco DOC
Cuvèe delle Vigne Niche
Zone: Castiglione di Sicilia, Randazzo,
Milo, Biancavilla
Varietal: 100% Carricante
Etna Rosso DOC
Santo Spirito
Zone: S. Spirito District,
Castiglione di Sicilia
Cru: S. Spirito
Varietals: 98% Nerello
Mascalese,
2% Nerello Cappuccio
Etna Rosso DOC Prephylloxera
- La Vigna di Don Peppino -
Etna Rosso DOC
Calderara Sottana
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Calderara Sottana District, Randazzo
La Vigna di Don Peppino
98% Nerello Mascalese,
Zone: Calderara Sottana District, Randazzo
Cru: Calderara Sottana
Varietals: 98% Nerello Mascalese,
159
Sicily
This small estate on the northern slope of Mount Etna was recently established by Marco de Grazia, owner of the nearby Tenuta
delle Terre Nere. “Establishing Le Vigne di Eli - Marco says - was effortless. A simple act of love towards my little daughter
Elena (Eli). It happened in 2006. I was offered first one, then another, tiny vineyard, both in exceptional crus: Feudo di Mezzo
and Moganazzi-Voltasciara. I bought them, and since the parcels were so small and fine, I was somehow reminded of Elena. Thus,
Le Vigne di Eli was born. To use Elena’s drawings as labels came naturally because I love her art work. And equally naturally
came the impulse to have this “child’s estate” be a help to children in need. Thus a substantial part of the small proceeds go to a
childrens’ hospital, the Ospedale Pediatrico Meyer in Florence. With this, the “children’s project” came full circle.
Today, seeing the growing appreciation for Eli’s very fine wines, I’ve selected more tiny parcels of outstanding quality,
contracting them, and releasing a bit more very fine wine. This includes a lovely Etna Bianco from a vineyard in Milo. And in
the future I know I’ll surely be tempted by other precious little parcels. We’ll just have to wait and see.”
Etna Rosso Moganazzi-Voltasciara is made from a small parcel in the township of Castiglione di Sicilia. The vineyard stands at
an altitude of 700 meters above sea level, the vines are over 80 years old, the soil is made up of volcanic ash with black pumice
and volcanic rock.
Two parcels yield the grapes that go into Etna Rosso Pignatuni. From 2014 there will be a third. The vineyards are adjacent,
the vines over 60 years old. The vineyard maintenance is organic and impeccable. The soil very much like a “little Calderara”:
extremely stony, but a smaller, more pebbly sized stones, and at 650 metres altitude. Pignatuni’s wine stands to Calderara’s much
like a Barbaresco would stand to a Barolo: it has a princely finesse rather than a regal authority. An elegance rare even for an
appellation as elegant as Etna.
Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is made from 0,30 hectares of vineyard in the homonymous district within the township of Randazzo.
The vines are over 55 years old, the altitude is 750 meters above sea level, the soil is almost unalloyed volcanic sand. We rarely
produce more than three barrels. The wine from this cru is particularly rich, with very soft tannins, making it a velvety and
voluptuous to the palate.
These three Etna Rosso Crus all mature for 18 months in oak and are not filtered before being bottled.
The entry level Etna Rosso comes from a vineyard in the Savina cru, just South-West of Calderara Sottana. Not only has it the
structure and depth of its old vines, but that ineffable identity that comes from a single vineyard. Good drinking indeed.
The Etna Bianco is made exclusively with Carricante grapes of a vineyard in Milo, just one hectare, at 750 meters above sea
level. After cold maceration on the skins, it is vinified and ages in large oak casks and in tonneaux for 10 months and is released
after 8 months of finishing in the bottle.
However, in a recently bought parcel of Moganazzi-Voltasciara, the estate decided to plant Carricante and Catarratto. Soon,
therefore, these grapes will be blended into the Vigne di Eli’s Etna Bianco cuvèe.
◊
160
Etna Rosso DOC Pignatuni
Zone: Randazzo
Cru: Pignatuni
Etna Rosso DOC
Zone: Randazzo, Castiglione di Sicilia
Etna Rosso DOC Moganazzi
Volta Sciara
Zone:
Cru:
Varietals:
Castiglione di Sicilia
Moganazzi - Volta Sciara
Etna Bianco DOC
Zone: Milo
Varietal: 100% Carricante
161
Sicily
Centonze Srl was established in 1998 by a family of oenologists, Giovanni Centonze together with his son and daughter Nicola
and Carla. Giovanni is a well known Sicilian oenologist and former president of the Association of Sicilian oenologists.
Nicola studied viticulture and oenology at Conegliano Veneto (considered one of the best university level courses in Italy) and
set up a consultancy company together with Vincenzo Bambina, also a very well known Sicilian winemaker, in 2000.
Nicola consults for a number of estates located in the most suitable zones for viticulture throughout Sicily and follows all phases
of production from the planting of the vineyards to the bottling of the wines. At these estates the best grapes, in the best vineyards
and standing in the most significative terroirs, are chosen, vinified and bottled with the label of Centonze. Approximately 20
hectares of vineyards belong to the company in the area of Trapani.
The wines are mainly made with indigenous varietals, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria). The
range also includes the only DOCG wine in Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (the blend being Nero d’Avola and Frappato), that
dates back to 1606 when the town of Vittoria was founded by Vittoria Colonna Henriques daughter of the viceroy of Sicily. This
Cerasuolo (from “cerasa”, cherry in Sicilian dialect), entirely vinified in steel, is extremely pleasant and drinkable, with delicate
floral and fresh red fruit notes.
The philosophy of the company is to offer wines that express at best the various Sicilian terroirs, but that can, at the same
time, be easily appreciated and understood. Nicola and Giovanni, supported by Vincenzo Bambina, have given an important
contribution to modern winemaking in the region and the Centonze label is a guarantee for high quality and typicality.
Tasting these wines will make you experience a tour of Sicily that I am sure you will find highly rewarding!
◊
162
Sicilia DOP
Nero d’Avola
Zone: Western Sicily
Varietal: 100% Nero d’Avola
Vittoria DOP
Frappato
Zone: Eastern Sicily
Varietal: 100% Frappato
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
Zone:
Varietals:
Average Prod.:
Eastern Sicily
60% Nero d’Avola, 40% Frappato
12,000 bottles
Sicilia DOP
Grillo
Zone: Trapani
Varietal: 100% Grillo
163
Azienda Agricola
Sicily
The “P. Cuppari” agricultural Institute of Messina has its headquarters in a Benedictine monastery dating back to the 1500s. It
stands on a hill from which there is a breathtaking view of the whole strait of Messina. Wine was produced throughout the whole
history of the monastery, but high quality wines were made starting from the 1900s when the “Royal School of Agriculture” was
established. Indigenous vine varieties were planted and modern equipment, such as a very avant-garde crusher destemmer, was
purchased.
The “Faro” DOC appellation was established in 1976 and the Institute took part in the drawing up of the production regulation.
In 1978 the first vineyard for the production of “Faro” wine was planted on the Institute’s land. In 2005 the vineyards were
replanted and the vineyard extension was increased up to 4.5 hectares. A cellar with modern equipment was built within the
warehouses of the monastery.
The ancient Greek population of the Phari colonized this area and it seems that the “Faro” wine was named after them. Viticulture
and wine making goes back as far as the Mycenean period (XIV b.C.!!) in this area of Sicily. The Romans also appreciated
the wines from Messina very much. At the end of the 1900s the wines from this area were exported to France after the French
vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera. At the end of the 1800s there were 45,000 hectares of vineyards in the province of
Messina, but at present the vineyards extend for just 900 hectares (here we intend the total vineyard extension, including the
Faro DOC appellation).
The Faro DOC appellation is tiny, just 40 hectares of vineyards all within the area of the commune of Messina (which is included
in the larger area of the province of Messina).
The “P. Cuppari” Institute is the first producer of the appellation for vineyard extension (4.5 hectares) and the second for bottle
production/year (8,000-8,500 bottles).
The “San Placido” Faro DOC - a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nocera (an indigenous varietal), Nerello Cappuccio, Nero d’Avola
and Sangiovese – is a very special wine, as all the phases of production in the vineyard and in the cellar are followed by the
students of the agricultural school. The first vintage to be bottled was 2010. The vinification is supervised by the oenologist
Nicola Centonze (who owns Centonze Srl – part of our portfolio – together with his family). Furthermore, all the earnings from
this wine return to the school to finance its courses, to buy equipment and to finance this project.
This wine matures for 12 months in French oak barriques and tonneaux. The nose is rich and intense, with notes of red berries
and Mediterranean spices. In the mouth it is well structured, persistent and slightly sapid. Try it with red and white meat dishes,
game, with swordfish or with “Pesce stocco alla ghiotta”, a typical dish of Messina which is stockfish and potatoes cooked in
a sauce of tomatoes, celery, onions, capers and olives.
◊
164
San Placido Faro DOC
Zone:
Varietals:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Calonerò (Messina)
20% Nerello Cappuccio,
10% Nocera, 5% Nero d’Avola,
5% Sangiovese
4.5 hectares
8,500 bottles
165
Azienda Agricola
Sicily
The island of Pantelleria is a luminous volcanic fragment that lies at the center of the Mediterranean Sea, between the continents
of Europe and Africa, exactly 40 nautical miles from Cape Mustafà in Tunisia and 60 nautical miles from Cape Granatola in
Sicily.
The climate is humid and windy, the predominant Scirocco and Maestrale blowing hard most of the year. Mean temperature is
25°Celsius in August, at harvest, and rainfall, at a yearly 349 mm, is the lowest in Europe.
The island’s noble varietal is Muscat of Alexandria, planted in individual “conche” (dugouts), 20 cms deep, in order to protect
the vines from the wind. The grape was most probably brought to Pantelleria by the Arabs around 800 A.D. - though previous
vineyards planted by the Greeks certainly existed, and a Passito was equally produced - and was employed to produce raisins as
well as wine. In fact, the grape is locally known as Zibibbo, “Zebib” being the arabic for raisin. And still today, notwithstanding
a growing agricultural depression, Zibibbo remains the island’s farming staple, both in raisin form and in wine. Indeed, the only
significant wine of the island - aside from small quantities produced for local consumption - is Passito di Pantelleria, a wine
produced from dried grapes, obviously the finest expression of this Muscat.
The Ferrandes family is of Spanish descent, established in Pantelleria in the 15th century. The tradition of producing Passito
di Pantelleria, possibly Italy’s most ancient dessert wine and the island’s claim to fame, was passed on from father to son and
is perpetuated today by Salvatore Ferrandes. The estate’s entire production (of raisins as well as wine), is strictly organic. The
Muscat grapes, carefully open-air dried for two weeks against lava stone walls, are crushed and then fermented in tiny vats given the 2,500 litre production! - deep in the estate’s 17th century cellars. The wine decants and is left to mature for 1 year
minimum, whereupon it is bottled.
The result is unique and truly remarkable. And, indeed, in mythology we find the Carthaginian goddess Tanit (Carthage being
the closeby current day Tunis), substituting divine Ambrosia with the ancient Passito from Pantelleria (following Aphrodite’s
advice!), in order to seduce much desired Apollo, the inflexible Lord of the shining sun.
The wine’s colour is a rich gold with deep amber hues. The bouquet is powerfully aromatic, clearly reminiscent of dried apricots
and figs, hazelnuts and vanilla, layers upon layers of spice and musk - an unforgettable fragrance! On the palate it is honey-rich
and deep-toned, a divinely lingering wine, truly embodying the full solar sensuality of the Mediterranean spirit.
For this jewel, as for all Sicilian wine and experience, I am deeply indebted to my friend and excellent winemaker Salvatore
Foti.
◊
166
Passito di Pantelleria DOP
Zone:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Pantelleria
Moscato di Alessandria
1.6 hectares
2,500 litres
167
SARDINIA
Sardinia is the second largest island of the Mediterranean. It is unique, very different from the other islands and from the other
Italian regions. Its beaches are spectacular, its turquoise sea reminiscent of the Caribbean. But there are also high mountains,
such as Punta La Marmora that is 1,834 meters high. About 50% of the soils is granitic. The climate is mild in the winter, but it
can get extremely hot in the summer, sometimes up to 45 degrees Celsius!
Our selection offers you wines from Gallura in the northern part of the island. Here there are lovely Romanesque churches,
mysterious archeological sites, where one can see the impressive “nuraghi”, cone shaped towers built by an ancient Sardinian
civilization that ruled the island from 1,800 B.C. till the second century A.D. The contrast in the landscape is incredible: white
beaches and granitic hills and mountains some right on the sea. There has been a great development of touristic sites, such as
the famous “Costa Smeralda”. Although Sardinia is very crowded in the summer, it is always possible to find beaches and towns
“off the beaten track”.
Needless to say, viticulture is very ancient in Sardinia and was developed by the Phoenicians and then by the ancient Romans.
Unfortunately the vineyards were destroyed by the Barbarians, but viticulture was practiced again in the XIII and XVI centuries.
Vermentino was probably imported from Spain in the XIX century. It seems that also the red indigenous grape varieties of
Sardinia - such as Bovale Sardo, Carignano, Cannonau, Monica – descend from varieties imported from Spain in the XV century.
Although phylloxera destroyed a large part of the vineyards, these ancient varietals were replanted and many producers are
concentrating on high quality wines made with these grapes.
Although Sardinia is an island, the traditional cuisine is not based on fish. Sardinia has an ancient tradition of sheep farming
and it is famous for its delicious cheese, its pasta (“malloreddus”), roast suckling pig (“porceddu”), lamb, lovely vegetable
dishes and much more. Due to tourism a fish cuisine has been developed over the last thirty years.
As mentioned before, we are happy to offer you some fantastic wines from Gallura, made by a fantastic family: try the mineral
and flavourful Vermentino and the very particular fresh and fruity reds and, in case you have not been, you will want to visit
this impressive part of the world!
◊
168
Cannonau
Bovale Sardo
Carignano
Monica
Vermentino
169
Sardinia
For the first time our selection now offers you some very special wines from Sardinia and from a very special estate.
Azienda Vitivinicola Mura is in the north west of the island near Olbia, six kilometres inland and was established in 1975 by
Filippo Mura, the father of Salvatore and Marianna, as a hobby. He planted 7 hectares of vineyards on the old bed of a river
after levelling the land out and removing a lot of the granite rocks. A huge granite rock can still be seen among the vines.
The sea breezes meet here with the breezes that blow from the mountains creating a particular microclimate and lowering the
temperature in the afternoon and at night. Bear in mind that the temperature can go up to 40-41 degrees Celsius in August!
Since 1999 Marianna and Salvatore work full time at the estate after Filippo entrusted them with the management. Marianna
is the wine maker, she has a degree in biology and one in oenology and viticulture and has specialised her knowledge in white
vinification in Friuli working for a season at the estates of Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore. Salvatore is an agricultural
technician, he manages the vineyards, together with Marianna, and he follows the marketing of the wines.
At present the vineyard extension is 13 hectares, 8 hectares are planted with Vermentino, the rest are planted with indigenous
red varietals such as Cannonau, Bovale and Carignano. The altitude is 150-200 meters above sea level, the soil is made up of red
clay, it has little organic matter and is rich in white, pink and purple quartzite and in granite.
According to recent studies, Vermentino was imported from Spain in the XIX century either directly by ship and grown at first
around the town of Alghero or it was brought to Sardinia through the south of France, Liguria and Tuscany. While is seems that
Cannonau is most definitely an autochthonous grape. The traditional wines of Sardinia were red, the production of white wines
is more recent.
The vineyards are beautifully tended, herbicides and chemical products are banned, grass is left on the aisles between the rows
of vines, only copper and sulphur are sprayed in order to prevent disease. When needed, manure from local farms is spread.
Because of the hot climate during the summer the vines are deleafed very little. The younger vines are irrigated as the clayey
soil dries easily.
Because of the composition of the soil and the vicinity of the Tyrrhenian sea, the Vermentino di Gallura (this is the only DOCG
appellation in Sardinia) of the Mura family is particularly mineral, sapid, it has a lot of structure. Furthermore, these wines have
a good acidity, due to the cool afternoon breezes, that make them fresh and vibrant.
Marianna’s version of Cannonau is different from the traditional one: the grapes are harvested earlier, the maceration with the
skins is short (five days) so as to make fresh and fruity wines, with cherry and strawberry notes, wines that are appreciated also
by a young public.
Marianna and Salvatore speak about their estate with enthusiasm and with love and this can be felt drinking these wines.
◊
170
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG
Cheremi
Zone: Azzanidò and Monti districts
(Olbia-Tempio)
Cru: Mura vineyards and
a small plot in Monti
Varietal: 100% Vermentino
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC
Cortes
Zone: Azzanidò and Monti districts
(Olbia-Tempio)
Cru: Mura vineyards and
a small plot in Monti
Varietal: 100% Cannonau
Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG
Sienda
Zone:
Cru:
Varietal:
Vineyard Ext.:
Average Prod.:
Isola dei Nuraghi IGT Baja
Azzanidò district (Olbia-Tempio)
Mura vineyards
100% Vermentino
3 hectares
18,000 bottles
Zone: Azzanidò (Olbia-Tempio)
Cru: Mura vineyards
Varietal: 80% Cannonau, 15% Carignano,
5% Bovale Sardo
171
France
The vineyards stand in the well known zone of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Reims) one of the 17 Grand Crus of Champagne, in the
heart of the Côte des Blancs.
Enrico and Nadia, Enrico’s companion both in business and in life, are two Italians (which sounds unusual for the Champagne
area) who produce champagne with their vigneron (a récoltant-manipulant, harvester-producer aka chef de cave) Jean Michel.
Enrico has always had a great passion for Champagne but his core business in life deals with environmental and rehabilitation
engineering, through the “hydroseeding” technique, a process based on the use of slurry seed and mulch. This technique is
applied to steep vineyards in order to prevent erosion and to provide oxygen to the vine roots.
When Enrico was working as an environmental engineer first in Tuscany then in the Champagne region he had the chance to
meet Jean Michel, his future wine maker. That is when his adventure in Champagne began.
The name “ENCRY” is given by the union of Enrico’s nickname “Enry” and the letter “c” which stands for “champagne”.
The Maison is registered as “Veuve Blanche Estelle” and it is enrolled among the récoltants-manipulants: those small producers
that harvest, produce and market their wines directly. This is the reason why the indication “R.M.” is found on the label.
The result: vins de plaisir, appreciated throughout the world, with a wide range of creations, the variety of which will fit all
occasions perfectly. The aim of Maison Vue Blanche Estelle is to keep up the good job by producing finest champagne that
enables to seduce and to gain those consumers looking for “ENCRY”, which means not only the prestige of a Grand Cuvée but
also a brand that excels in taste and elegance. An excellent discovery of rare pleasures and sensations.
The Maison produces 4 different wines, all Chardonnay based:
BRUT - 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
ZERO DOSAGE - 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
MILLESIME 2005 - 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
GRAND ROSE - 95% Chardonnay - 5% Vin Rouge de Pinot Noire - Grand Cru
The total average production amounts to 30,000 of bottles each year.
◊
172
Champagne - Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru - Grande Cuvée
“ENCRY” Zéro Dosage
Zone: Le Mesnil Sur Oger (France)
Champagne - Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru - Grande Cuvée
“ENCRY” Millésime 2005
Champagne - Blanc de Blancs - Grand Cru
Grande Cuvée “ENCRY” Brut
Zone:
Varietal:
Zone: Le Mesnil Sur Oger (France)
Le Mesnil Sur Oger (France)
100% Chardonnay
Type of Viticulture: Practicing Biodynamic
173
THE STAFF OF
Co-Director:
Mr Sebastian de Grazia
Ms Mery Paternò
[email protected]
Tax Consultant and Head of the Department:
Mr Francesco Marconcini
Accountant: Ms Sandra Giannini
[email protected]
Ms Valentina Barbieri
[email protected]
Accountant: Mr Dario Zenti
[email protected]
Mr Gabriele Corsi
[email protected]
Secretariat-General Services
Accountancy Department
Founder and Managing Director:
Mr Marc de Grazia
Ms Elisa Cambi
[email protected]
Sales Co-ordination
Ms Letizia Simoncini
[email protected]
Editing, Website
Ms Lucia Borchi
[email protected]
Ms Susan Michahelles
[email protected]
Ms Martina Vogt
[email protected]
UK Market
Ms Bianca Novakovic
[email protected]
Ms Luciana Girotto
[email protected]
174
Producer and Client Co-ordination
Ms Patrizia Chiari
[email protected]
Mr Antonio Ciccarelli
[email protected]
deGrazia Imports LLC (US Market)
www.degraziaimports.com
President: Ms Anne Zakin
[email protected]
C.O.O.: Ms Stacy Sherman
[email protected]
[email protected]
Western Regional Manager: Mr Robert Tucker
[email protected]
Eastern Regional Manager: Mr Ross Bouchard
[email protected]
Regional Sales Manager: Ms Stephanie Maschek
[email protected]
Accounting & Compliance: Ms Julie Wipff
[email protected]
Italian
English
French
German
Spanish
Croatian
Languages Spoken
Marc de Grazia Selections S.r.l.
Address: Borgo degli Albizi, 10 - 50122 Firenze (Italia)
Tel: +39.055.200311 Fax: +39.055.20031250
General E-mail address: [email protected]
Web page: www.marcdegrazia.com
175

- Marc de Grazia Selections

Transcription

Similar documents

Now here`s a honey. Big mouthful of shapely

Château Hostens-Picant is a major vineyard lo- cated on

Sanger Technical Sheets Consilience R10

CLAROSCURO Pinot Noir 2015

Sustainability

Cover Page - Bridgeview Wines

fiorile grecanico igt di sicilia duca di castelmonte wines from

Celebrating 34 Years of Winemaking in Amador

The Bacchananlian Society of Cincinnati

Pop, pop, fizz, fizz: rosés add the sparkle fizz