Information - The Sewing Coach

Silk possesses classy qualities like a smooth sheen and brilliant colours, plus
it's pleasant to wear. This most noble of all natural fabrics exudes elegant
shimmer. Yet it's easy to work with and just needs gentle treatment
Information
Silk is a marvellous miracle of nature! The greedy little silkworm eats vast amounts of
mulberry leaves to produce fabulous threads! The silkworm and its threads only
have one "family tree" - the mulberry. About 30 days after birth the silk worm
starts spinning threads to create its own cocoon. The threads from cultivated silkworms are used to make fabulous silk fabrics like chiffon, satin, organza, taffeta
and crepe de Chine…
Wild silk is made by wild silk-worms, the most famous being so-called "tussah"
silkworms. Their silk is more robust than cultivated mulberry silk and the threads
are less regular, thus reducing both the sheen and colour intensity.
Handle With a Gentle Touch
CUTTING OUT:
Before you start cutting, preshrink the silk, interfacings (some new interfacings do not
need preshrinking), and underlinings. Generally suit-weight silks don't shrink badly and
can be pre-shrunk by pressing with a good steam iron or hanging over a tub filled with
very hot water.
To layout the silk, use a `with nap' layout to avoid possible shading differences. Spread
thick, nubby, or bulky fabrics in a single layer with the right side up for easier cutting.
When cutting lightweight materials for linings, backings and blouses, cover the cutting
table with a vinyl tablecloth, flannel side up.
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To control slippery fabrics, make a paper sandwich with the silk inside. Cover the table with a
piece of paper, spread and smooth the silk over it and place the pattern on top. Pin and
carefully cut through all layers.
To avoid marring with pins, use weights or place fine pins within the seam allowances.
TIP: Pins are easier to use when inserted parallel to the lengthwise grain.
TRANSFERRING MARKINGS:
The prefered method of tranfering construction marlings is using tailors tacking. But you can
use any method except wax chalk, but always test to be sure it will not stain permanently.
You can use dressmaker's carbon paper and tracing wheel, preferably with a smooth rotor. It's
absolutely essential to use white carbon paper on any thin, delicate, transparent or light-coloured
fabric. Never use carbon paper in a contrasting colour as it could show through to the fabric's
right side. Always try out your carbon paper on a fabric remnant first and always trace onto the
wrong side of the fabric!
When both sides of the fabric look the same, identify the right side with a small mark. If the
fabric isn't easily marred by pins, place a small safety pin at the upper right-hand of each
garment section. If it is easily marred, I sew a single cross stitch.
PRESSING:
Press silk with a dry iron at the silk (cool) setting. If you have a steam iron, remember to first
completely empty the water container - any drop of water could leave an indelible mark on silk!
ALWAYS Press the fabric from the wrong side.
BUT if pressing must be done from the right side, then first cover it with a thin ironing cloth, e.g.
batiste, to avoid producing any unsightly shiny areas.
INTERFACING:
Fusible Vilene/PeIlonG785(from Freudenberg) is ideal for silk. Press it on with a dry iron at a
silk (Cool) setting. This thin interfacing can also be used on fine transparent silk fabrics e.g.
chiffon. G 785 is available in white, skin-tone and black at textile shops.
CONSTRUCTION:
Use universal needles (size 70 or 80) for your sewing machine. Microtex needles in finer sizes 6070 are recommended for delicate silk fabrics.
Important: only use a needle with a perfect point because any defects could damage the thin
threads or even tear holes in the silk fabric. Sew seams with a stitch length setting of
2 to 2.5 mm; smaller stitches will not make the seam any stronger and larger stitches will cause
puckering.
• Use universal polyester thread for the seams.
• Use a finer machine embroidery thread or darning thread for neatening/clean finishing
the raw edges.
Tip: Use pinking shears to finish raw edges on silk seams.
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FABRIC CARE:
Taffeta, silk brocade, chiffon, satin, georgette, organza as well as printed silk fabrics must all be
dry-cleaned because their dyes could "bleed" in the wash. If you wish to wash your single-colour
blouse or top yourself, then only by hand or by machine at a hand-warm temperature and on the
delicate cycle. Silk should not be wrung or spun dry- and never put in the dryer. Do not dry in
direct sunlight or near a radiator! Press all silk garments while they are still slightly damp.
EXTRA TIP:
Avoid stressed seams (e.g. centre seams on trousers/pants) from pulling open by
ironing 2-cm wide bias strips of Vilene; Pellon G 785 interfacing or fusible seam tape
onto fabric over marked seamlines before stitching them up
SILK
GLOSSARY OF SILK TERMS
Charmeuse: A lightweight silk that is soft and drapes well. It has a smooth satin face and
dull finish back.
Chiffon: A very light fabric in a plain weave, usually transparent.
Crepe: A lightweight fabric with a pebbly surface obtained by using high twist yarns.
Crepe de chine: A lightweight fabric with a plain weave, very drapey.
Douppioni or douponi: Refers to the thicker thread made when two silk worms nest
together. More casual reference is to Indian made silk using doupioni thread, usually has a
nice sheen, slub, and a slightly crisp hand.
Habutai: Smooth soft plain weave silk. Often referred to as China silk.
Momme: Japanese unit of weight (equal to 3.75 grams) used to describe weight of silk
fabrics. (The numbers increase with the increase weight.)
Noil: Actually refers to fiber length, but is casually used to refer to silk fabric made from short
fibers. The fabric is slightly rough to the touch and may have specks of irregularities of fiber
that add to its appeal.
Organza: A light, thin, transparent stiff fabric.
Pongee: A thin tan-colored silk fabric.
Shantung: Silk woven from wild silk, has slubs, and a subtle sheen.
Tussah: Refers to silk fabric made from wild silk rather than cultivated silk. Usually has
many slubs and takes a less intense dye appearance.
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