CWT 33 Summer 2010 Issue for web.qxd

Traveller
C
A
N
A
D
I
A
N
W O R L D
Summer 2010 / Vol 8 / No 2
In This Issue
Asia
Zhengzhou,
China
North America
Las Vegas
North Africa
Cairo, Egypt
Canad
a’s
Only P
rint an
d
On-lin
e
Consu
mer Tr
avel
Magaz
ine
Printed on Recycled & Recyclable Paper
A word
from the editors
W
elcome to the Summer
2010 Issue of Canadian
World Traveller (CWT),
which is being distributed across Greater
Montreal, as well as in select locations in
the Greater Toronto Area.
The magazine is now in the seventh
year of its publication. This issue, as well
as all of our previous 32 issues, are
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We hope that our initiative will inspire
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Published by
Canadian World
Traveller
In this issue, we invite you to explore
Zhengzhou, China which has been called
the “Cradle of Chinese Civilization”
because of the many everyday things that
were invented there in ancient times.
We then spend a week at Las Vegas’
exciting new CityCenter, which is destined
to forever change perceptions of the old
“Sin City”. This sparkling revolutionary
urban complex offers the visitor much
more that just slot machines.
Finally we return to Cairo, Egypt to
learn more about the extraordinary
mosques and other structures built by the
little-known Fatimids, whose rule dated
back to the 10th century when their
empire grew to include all of North Africa
and parts of the Arabian Peninsula.
Happy Summer Travels
Table of Contents
Page
Zhengzhou, China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Las Vegas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cairo, Egypt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
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Graphic Artist
Advertising
Marketing
Distribution
Ecotourism
Contributors
Michael Morcos
Greg James
Al Cheong
Leo Santini
Tania Tassone
Royce Dillon
Dave Taylor
Tom Koppel
Habeeb Salloum
David J. Cox
Tania Tassone
Front Cover Photo: Zhengzhou, China
Printed in Canada
Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every
effort to verify that the information provided in this
publication is as accurate as possible. However, we
accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.
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Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
4
Zhengzhou
Cradle of Chinese Civilization
By Michael Morcos
I
t was a humid, overcast day and Mt.
Songshan, the sacred Chinese mountain
behind me, was hidden in the fog that
coiled over its slopes like a slumbering dragon.
In front of me, long rows of 1,200 yearold pagodas loomed through the mist, their tall
towers outlined with ghostly petal-shaped
eaves. Close by the "pagoda forest" stood an
ancient Shaolin temple, the birthplace of Kung
Fu and Zen Buddhism.
As I marveled at the majesty of China's
past, its ambitious, energetic present was only
40 kilometres away - the object of my visit, the
city of ZhengZhou, a metropolis of eight million
people that is both the cradle of Chinese civilization and an important part of this teeming
nation's rapidly evolving future.
See Zhengzhou, China on page 5
Zhengzhou, China
Continued from page 4
China’s Heartland
ZhengZhou is located on the Yellow
River in the central Chinese province of
Henan, 600 km south of Beijing. A transportation hub, its impressive airport boasts
a variety of international carriers serving
the city's dynamic manufacturing sector
and world-class tourist destinations.
Founded over 3,600 years ago by the
Shang dynasty of rulers, ZhengZhou was
China's first imperial capital, reaching its
pinnacle under the Song dynasty (9th 12th century AD), the golden age of
Chinese history.
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
Today, that storied past is visible in
hundreds of historic sites and attractions.
Wherever you wander, it quickly becomes
clear why the ZhengZhou area is considered the Chinese heartland - the region is
responsible for many of the innovations
that mark China's enormous contribution
to human progress over the centuries,
whether technical (the invention of indoor
plumbing, eyeglasses, paper, and the first
ever printing press), or cultural (the world's
first libraries, secular literature, and transcribed musical compositions).
And, yes, as befits an area that helped
develop rice cultivation, dumplings, and
pasta, the food is downright delicious.
A Modern Town
Given the wealth of history on display,
it may surprise visitors to see how up-todate ZhengZhou is. While the sheer number of people in the streets can be daunting, the city retains a pleasant atmosphere.
Modern, well signposted, filled with
parks and gardens, and boasting a total
of nine 4- and 5-star hotels, ZhengZhou
generally feels airy and relaxed despite its
hustle and bustle.
The downtown radiates outward from
the central Erqi Memorial along five major
thoroughfares; within strolling distance are
5
the city's main shopping, entertainment
and eating districts. At night, downtown
side streets jam with vendors selling exotic
snacks and curios.
International Influences
I made sure to sample local cuisine at
lunch hour, trying signature dishes like hu
la tang (a spicy and sour soup with glass
noodles, seaweed, and meat) and
zhengjiao (long steamed dumplings).
Oftentimes, dining out became an
opportunity to meet well-wishers, or
passersby wanting to practice English.
China's recent rush to international
prominence is reflected by the attitudes of
its citizens, many of whom are knowledgeable about the outside world.
See Zhengzhou, China on page 6
6
Zhengzhou,
China
Ctinued from page 5
They are also influenced by it, as I
found out when I stumbled onto a wedding party - the groom resplendent in a
natty suit, his consort wearing a fairytale
wedding gown any Canadian bride would
die for.
The local touch? Two interlocked gold
padlocks held aloft by the happy couple,
symbolizing love for ever after.
Grand Heritage
Once comfortable in ZhengZhou's
humid subtropical climate (beware the
May-September rains), I set out to explore
the area's many cultural treasures. But
where to start?
The City God Temple, home of the traditional local deity? Or perhaps a stroll in
the Yellow River Scenic Area, its 13 kilometres of views dominated by 50-metrehigh granite busts of two legendary
emperors?
China's attractions, modern and
ancient, invariably tend towards the lavish
and grand; as a result, even the laziest
daytrip can quickly test the number of
adjectives in any tourist's vocabulary
("Colossal! Exquisite! Amazing!").
In the ZhengZhou region, I had to
choose between visiting the neighbouring
city of Gongyi's Song Emperor Tombs
(colossal) and heading to nearby
Xinzheng's Temple of the Yellow Emperor
(exquisite).
Instead, I plumped for a third option
112 km to the west but easily reachable
by bus: the amazing Buddhas of the
Longmen Grottoes just outside the city of
Louyang.
Longmen Ghettoes
At a time when medieval Europe was
building cathedrals, Chinese Buddhist
monks took a simpler but equally breathCanadian World Traveller Summer 2010
taking approach to the divine - they cut
vast shrines from the sheer rock of mountainsides, carving elaborately sculpted
caves (or "grottoes"), and transforming
whole cliff-faces into unsurpassable stone
statuary.
Though present elsewhere around
ZhengZhou (there are beautiful grottoes in
Gongyi, for instance), these incredible
achievements can be best seen at
Longmen, where monks laboured for 500
years creating one of the wonders of the
world, now a UNESCO World Heritage
Site.
The place itself is a revelation. Imagine
if you can a mountainside torn away to
reveal towering statues of the Buddha up
to 17 metres tall; everywhere the surrounding cliffs pitted with grottos and
niches (2,345 in all), their contents a
treasure-trove of over 100,000 religious
sculptures hewn from the sandstone rockface.
In many of the grottos, every inch of
space, including floors and ceilings, is
covered with devotional carvings.
On the cliffs outside, the giant statues
pose frozen in the rock, defying the teachings of Buddha himself that all things are
transitory.
Millennium City Park
ZhengZhou and its environs remain just
as absorbing after nightfall.
One evening I ventured to the smaller,
skyscraper-free city of Kaifeng (45 minutes
by train), long ago the residence of a
tourist named Marco Polo.
Upon arrival, I headed off to the
Millennium City Park, dedicated to the sort
of spectacle only the Chinese can pull off.
The park is based entirely on a famous
Song Dynasty picture, “Going Upriver for
the Qingming Festival”.
Details of the painting illustrating daily
life during Song times are recreated
throughout the elaborate theme park,
which features intricate period architecture, torch parades, and "10th centurystyle shopping."
Song Dynasty Show
Henan Provincial Museum
Back in ZhengZhou, I visited the Henan
Provincial Museum (8 Nongye Rd in the
city's north end) to make sense of everything I'd seen. Housed in a mammoth
eye-catching pyramid, the museum boasts
an extraordinary collection of artifacts
from China's 8,000-year history.
Well-captioned in English (audio is also
available), the exhibits include many rare
relics, notably a burial gown made of jade
and some of the earliest musical instruments known anywhere (demonstrations
using replicas take place regularly).
Expect to see lots of gold, along with
priceless jewelry, ceramics, sculpture,
paintings, and porcelain.
Even more spectacular is the song-anddance production put on nightly at another Kaifeng theme park dedicated to the
Song era, the Qingming Riverside
Landscape Garden.
The show, "Dreamlike Prosperity of the
Eastern Capitol," depicts life in Bianliang,
the Song capital. Vivid, expressionistic,
and high tech, it features hundreds of costumed performers cavorting on extravagant stage-sets that defy belief.
My favorite part was the show's surrealistic second act, "The Butterfly Fond of
Flowers," which I thought couldn't be
topped until I went to see traditional Yuju
Chinese Opera in ZhengZhou itself another diverting evening spent in a mindboggling world of costumed finery, sumptuous sets, and idiosyncratic music.
Futuristic New City
Taking a break from tradition, I ventured into the "New City Zone," a massive
futuristic development that will double
ZhengZhou's size on completion in 2020.
Consisting of two circles of identical
skyscrapers ringing an artificial lake, the
New City is intended to be both a commercial and residential centre.
See Zhengzhou, China on page 7
Zhengzhou, China
Continued from page 6
Features include an already finished
performing arts centre (it looks like five
gigantic golden eggs), along with a 6-star
pagoda-shaped skyscraper hotel now
under construction, and a convention centre containing a 5,000-seat auditorium.
When done, fountains rising from the
central lake will come alive in elaborate
nightly shows, with jets of water reaching
building height. Movies will be projected
onto a screen of water vapor filling the
night sky, producing a cinematic experience visible kilometres away.
Mt. Songshan’s Temples
An hour from ZhengZhou lies Mt.
Songshan, one of China's five holiest
mountains.
Its tumbling scenery of crags, gorges,
rope bridges and temple complexes has
attracted visitors since the local Zhongyne
Temple was completed during the Qin
Dynasty in the 2nd Century BC.
Even more famous is the Shaolin
Temple at the mountain's base, built 700
years afterwards by Buddhist warrior
monks who founded both the esoteric
practices of Zen Buddhism and the martial
arts discipline of Kung Fu.
Destroyed many times by the monk's
opponents during its long history, the temple complex was only restored to its previous splendour in 1981.
Today, it continues to house a population of monks who remain devoted to
Buddhism's study when not putting on
hourly displays of acrobatic prowess and
wizardly martial skills for tourists.
Shaolin Music Ritual
Many of the Shaolin monks' feats
(smashing iron bars over their heads; balancing on spear points; flinging nails
through plates of glass without smashing
them) are astonishing to witness, as is the
7
extravagant "Music Ritual," a nightly show
put on during the summer.
Although expensive to see, the epic
production is well worth the admission
price: horses, chariots, boats, medieval
siege machines, and hundreds of whirling
monks all fill an outdoor stage to tell traditional battle stories enacted on a lavish
scale - a grand finale to the spectacular
sights of ZhengZhou.
For More Info on ZhengZhou:
China National Tourist Office
480 University Ave, Suite 806
Toronto, ON M5G 1V2
Tel: 416-599-6636 or 1-866-599-6636
Official Websites: www.tourismchinaca.com and www.cnto.org
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
8
Las
Vegas
Like You’ve Never
Experienced It Before!
By Greg James
L
as Vegas… Sin City, glitzy showgirls, 24-hour casinos, aging crooners, free drinks, mediocre cuisine,
quickie weddings, tacky recreations of the world's
iconic landmarks and a longstanding reputation as the "anything goes" capital of the USA! That's what most people
think of Vegas.
Well, no more. CityCenter, the stunning new addition
to the world-famous Strip has changed all that!
See Las Vegas on page 9
Photos: Courtesy of CityCenter, Las Vegas
Las Vegas
Continued from page 8
A Complex for Our Times
The brainchild of MGM Mirage, now
renamed MGM Resorts International,
CityCenter is truly a city within a city.
This 67-acre complex of buildings,
plazas and "green" pathways brings
together within walking distance the very
best of accommodations, dining, shopping, entertainment and relaxation amenities in an eco-friendly, people-oriented
environment unheard of in the history of
Las Vegas and indeed the entire USA.
Form and function truly converge here
with impressive public art and innovative
architecture and interior design creating a
feast for the senses while maintaining a
human-scaled ambience. A popular saying goes, "What happens in Vegas, stays
in Vegas." However, after my short stay at
CityCenter, I couldn't wait to tell all!
Aria Resort & Casino
I had never stayed at a resort casino
before but the Aria belies what I'd heard
about such establishments.
The moment I entered the lobby I was
struck by its airy, elegant and almost
hushed atmosphere.
I would later discover that the worldrenowned firm of Pelli Clarke Pelli
Architects had designed this state-of-theart gently curving eco-friendly edifice.
The reception area staff of the Aria who
welcomed me in such a personable and
friendly manner made it nearly impossible
for me to believe that this was a 61-storied, 4,004-room hotel!
A 21st Century Room
The casino’s wide central aisle led to
the elevator that whisked me up to my
room. I knew that I was in Las Vegas the
minute I closed the door behind me.
The room's wall-to-wall blackout
drapes, followed by its sheer curtains,
silently slid open to reveal a stunning
bird's eye vista of the city's famous neoncovered Strip and the ridge of the snowcapped Spring Mountains beyond!
While the décor, furnishings and
amenities of my room where second to
none, it was the bedside touch-screen
monitor that impressed me the most.
All of the functions in the state-of-theart room, including the lights, air-conditioning, TV and curtains could be controlled from the pad-sized monitor without
getting out of bed.
City Within a City
Although I had never visited Las Vegas
before, many of my friends were amazed
when I told them that I hadn't ventured out
to see most of its clichéd flashy landmarks
that run along the Strip.
First of all, it actually rained quite a bit
during my four-day stay in late January.
Annual precipitation in Las Vegas is only
about 4.5 in (110 mm), which usually
occurs during the entire span of the winter
months but it seemed it all fell during my
visit, not something you would expect in
the Nevada desert.
But more to the point, there was so
much to see and do within CityCenter that
I had little time for anything else.
9
What follows is a brief overview of
some of CityCenter's fascinating and
impressive components.
Leaning Veer Towers
The first time I saw these two glass-covered, 37-storey towers leaning in opposite
directions (five degrees from centre), I
thought I was seeing things.
The two towers each feature approximately 335 condo-residences for those
who want to make Vegas their permanent
home. Because they tilt away from each
other, the residents of each tower can
enjoy unobstructed views.
World-Class Shopping
The towers rise from an equally spectacular shopping, dining and entertainment emporium, Crystals, which is a destination all by itself.
Crystals' eye-popping interior architecture and stunning indoor fountains vie
with the likes of Tiffany, Bulgari, Cartier,
Christian Dior, Fendi, Van Cleef & Arpels
and Versace for the attention of wellheeled shoppers or casual browsers.
What was most impressive was the lack
of any snobbery at these exclusive establishments. Maybe it's because they couldn't
tell if you were a big winner at the casinos
the night before!
See Las Vegas on page 10
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
10
Las Vegas
Viva Elvis! Viva Las Vegas!
I was thrilled to discover a Montreal
connection in Aria's opening show Viva
ELVIS, which was created and performed
by Montreal's own Cirque du Soleil.
This spectacular tribute to the late great
Elvis Presley explores highlights of his life
through dance, acrobatics and live music.
Continued from page 9
Exclusive Vdara Hotel
and Spa
This unique 57-story crescent-shaped
hotel and spa offers 1,495 suites for those
who prefer a non-gaming environment. Its
Sky Pool & Lounge features 19 luxuriously
appointed retreat cabanas including six
spa cabanas.
Vdara's 10,000 square feet of conference space can accommodate up to 400
guests and its Silk Road restaurant offers a
contemporary Mediterranean menu.
One of the hotel’s most prominent
public art pieces is Nancy Rubins' towering
"Big Edge" installation. It consists of
colourful, life-sized, stainless steel and
aluminium canoes and other watercraft
suspended by nearly invisible cables in a
gravity-defying cluster some 50 feet above
the hotel’s driveway.
Smorgasbord of Food
and Drink
CityCenter's innovative green solutions
include everything from its specially
designed slot machine bases that double
as air controllers to the world's first fleet of
stretch limos powered by compressed natural gas.
On another fascinating tour, a representative from CityCenter's collaborator
WET guided us through the five exclusive
water expressions they created for
CityCenter.
These included Aria's stunning exterior
fountain featuring dancing shoots of
beaded water as well as the hotel's dramatic interior two-storied glass "waterfall".
It may seem strange that water features
in the desert would be environmentally
sound but the water used is constantly
recycled and has a cooling effect whether
indoors or outdoors.
There were many magnificent restaurants located at the Aria and elsewhere in
CityCenter.
Most memorable were the authentic
paella creations at Julian Serrano; Michael
Mina's signature fish and seafood dishes
at American Fish; the Latin inspired menu
at Beso and the succulent steaks lovingly
prepared by award-winning chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten.
Art and Architecture
East Meets West at the
Mandarin
Rounding out the unique combination
of properties located in CityCenter is the
47-storey Mandarin Oriental that is a revolution in sustainable design and a welcome oasis of non-gaming oriental calm.
The Mandarin Oriental's elegantly
appointed 23rd floor Sky Lobby, restaurant and bar offer some of the most
breathtaking views of Las Vegas.
During my Las Vegas sojourn, I attended a cocktail reception at the intimate
23rd floor Mandarin Bar where I was graciously served signature cocktails and creative titbits of finger food while marvelling
at the 225-degree glittering views of Las
Vegas spread out below me.
Green and Wet Features
While on an informative sustainability
tour, I discovered that CityCenter is the
largest private green development in the
world.
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
CityCenter's fine art collection that
seems to be found everywhere one turns is
just too large to be listed here. However I
cannot fail to mention a few outstanding
pieces.
On entering the Aria, one is struck by
Maya Lin's "Silver River", which is cast in
reclaimed silver. The 84-foot-long sculpture hangs over Aria's registration desk.
The late famed British sculptor Henry
Moore's contribution "Reclining Connected
Forms" was carved out of Roman travertine marble and is installed in "The Park"
between the Aria and Crystals.
Finally, the aforementioned "Big Edge"
by Nancy Rubins that stands in front of the
Vdara and Claes Oldenburg and Coosje
van Bruggen's "Typewriter Eraser, Scale X"
found near the Mandarin Oriental, are
both playful and imaginative - exactly
what great public art should be!
As to the spectacular architecture and
interior design of CityCenter's buildings,
the kudos go to the likes of Cesar Pelli,
Daniel Libeskind, Kohn Pedersen Fox,
Helmut Jahn, Rafael Viñoly, the Rockwell
Group, Norman Foster, Gensler and more
than 45 interior designers.
Dancing the Night Away
The evening I spent at HAZE Nightclub
in the Aria was truly mind-blowing.
The Light Group designed this huge
multi-levelled, surreal entertainment venue
where state-of-the-art technology controlled the amazing sound and light system. This was my last night in Las Vegas
and what a way to spent it!
A Fitting Farewell
An early morning massage at The Spa
at Aria was just the right remedy for that
old morning-after-the-night-before feeling.
On my way to the airport driving past
the old-style casinos, I mused at what
impact CityCenter would have on existing
perceptions of Las Vegas.
I know this city-within-a-city had dramatically changed mine. During my stay I
hadn't spent a single quarter on the slot
machines and yet had experienced one of
the best times of my life.
More Info on CityCenter:
www.citycenter.com
www.arialasvegas.com
12
Egypt
Exploring
the Cairo of
the Fatimids
By
By Habeeb
Habeeb Salloum
Salloum
"You must walk Cairo's Muizz li'Din Allah Street! It's full of
history. I'm still in awe at what I've seen." Husn Abboud, a
budding Arab Canadian writer seemed to be in a trance
as she related to me the high point of her trip to Egypt.
Now, a year later, I stood with Ahmad, the
muezzin (the official appointed to call adherents to
prayer) of Al-Hakim bi Amr Allah Mosque, atop Bab AlFutuh, one of the three remaining of the 60 gates of the
city's once all-encompassing 10th century Fatimid walls.
As I surveyed Muizz Street below me, I thought of Husn's
words that had given me the urge to explore this venerable city within a city.
Over 1,000 years have passed since the foundation of this ancient town was laid yet still Fatimid Cairo
abounds with domes and minarets. Even though from my
vantage point, the town appeared rundown, it still had
the majesty of history.
See Egypt on page 13
Egypt
Continued from page 12
Undiscovered Cairo
Long noted for the Giza Pyramids with
their Sphinx and the city's Museum of
Antiquities, Cairo has other equally
appealing tourist attributes. It is abounds
in intriguing Islamic monuments, virtually
unknown to the vast majority of visitors
from the West.
The city's magnificent historic mosques
with their appealing domes and minarets
are a world of history and exoticism, waiting to be discovered.
More than the pharaohs' monuments,
colourful oriental bazaars and plush
hotels, these mosques will, no doubt, one
day draw streams of visitors. Still hidden
from the view of western travellers, they
are like underground gems waiting to be
mined.
Unlike in the neighbouring countries,
there still remain a good number of historic places of worship in Egypt since the
country never suffered the same fate as
the Arab lands of the “Fertile Crescent”
where Crusaders and Mongols destroyed
most of the ancient monuments.
Capital of Fatimid Empire
With the planet Mars in the ascendant,
the first stone of Cairo was laid by
General Gawhar who had conquered
Egypt for the North African Dynasty, the
Fatimids (a Shicite Islamic sect).
He named it Al-Qahira (the
Conqueror), the Arab name for Mars,
from which the name Cairo is derived.
Subsequently, the city became the capital of the Fatimid Empire, which once
included all of North Africa and parts of
the Arabian Peninsula.
In the centuries that followed, Cairo
flourished and became one of the most
prosperous urban centres in the world.
Historic Street
The town Gawhar established, remnants of which were spread out below us,
has remained the heart of Cairo until our
13
times. Of course, the rulers that followed
added their own touches. Ayyubids,
Mamluks, and later, Ottomans, all embellished Muizz Street, the main avenue of
See Egypt on page 14
Magnificent Mosques
For visitors not acquainted with the
Islamic face of Cairo, a guide well versed
with its mosques and Islamic history is a
must.
To get an overview of the hundreds of
these Muslim houses of worship, the itinerary should include four historic mosques:
Ibn Tulun, Al-Azhar, Sultan Hassan and
Muhammad Ali, representing the handiwork of the main Islamic dynasties in
Egypt. All of these mosques are open to
tourists and are worth lingering visits
However, if one is to get a real feel of
historic Cairo, visiting the well-preserved
Fatimid district is a must. It was established on the 5th of August in 969 A.D.
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
14
Egypt
Continued from page 13
the Fatimid city, with their structures - the
highest and most varied concentration of
medieval monuments in the city.
Duing these centuries, medieval Cairo
became one of the towns of the Arabian
Nights. Ibn Buttuta, the famous 14th century Arab traveller, after visiting the city,
wrote: "I arrived at length at the city of
Cairo, mother of cities, mistress of broad
provinces and fruitful lands, boundless in
the multitude of buildings, peerless in
beauty and splendour..."
As I gazed on these historic monuments, I thought of the emirs and sultans
who had vied with each other in erecting
a more magnificent mosque or madrasa
(school).
The forest of minarets of these structures today help to give Cairo its
Arab/Muslim atmosphere and make this
area of the city a picture of oriental splendour.
Minarets of Al-Hakim
As we walked down from Bab Al-Futuh
to the door of Al-Hakim Mosque (9901013), Ahmad turned to me, "Did you say
that you were of Syrian origin? Are you a
Druze?" I was somewhat astonished, "No!
Why do you ask?"
He said that money was needed to
complete the renovation of the mosque
and he thought that if I were a Druze I
would consider donating some money.
The Fatimid ruler, Al-Hakim bi Amr
Allah, who built the mosque, is important
in the Druze (a Muslim sect) religion.
However, in Islamic history, Al-Hakim is
famous for his eccentricities and arbitrary
edicts. He declared himself divine and
gave birth to the Druze sect - found today
in the greater Syria area.
His mosque, noted for its unique
minarets, was allowed to fall into ruins
until it was recently renovated by funds
from the Bohras, an Ismaili Shi'i sect,
found in India.
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010
Travelling Back in Time
From this controversial mosque, walking down Muizz Street was like travelling
back centuries. A traveller will never find
so much history concentrated in one spot.
There are at least forty interesting historic structures in the area - for those
interested in Islamic history, all worth
exploring. Crowning these monuments are
those structures that go back to the
Fatimid age.
Architectural Gem
After a few minutes walk, I stopped to
examine the Al-Aqmar Mosque (built
between 1121-1125), a true seminal
monument, important in Cairo's architectural history.
One of the few Fatimid buildings still
almost intact, it contains among its decorations a unique stone facade, fine examples of Fatimid woodcarving and many
historical inscriptions.
Outside the mosque, a young welldressed youth, noting that I was trying to
read an inscription commented, "I see you
are interested in our old mosques! Don't
you think that we should be moving into
the future, not always thinking of the past?
We need technical colleges, not religious
monuments."
I did not have a chance to answer
before he disappeared in the crowd. Like
many students throughout the Arab world,
he believed that emphasizing the historic
past was preventing the country from
moving into the modern age.
Centre of High Learning
Past a series of other venerable monuments, I reached Al-Azhar Mosque - the
greatest gift the Fatimids gave to the
Muslim world.
Founded in 970 by Gawhar, it soon
began to play an important role in the
religious life of the Muslim world, and this
has continued until our times. Also, at a
very early stage, it became a centre of
high learning. Today, it competes with the
Qarawiyin Mosque in Fez, Morocco, as
being the oldest university in the world.
In recent years, the subjects taught
there have been modernized. In addition
to the traditional studies, commerce, medicine and science have been added.
Today, Al-Azhar and the nine other
campuses it administers, cater to over 100
thousand students.
Through the centuries ruler after ruler
expanded the mosque until in our times it
has become a great combination of styles
- all blending well together.
Only the Central Court and a few other
minor parts of the mosque go back to the
Fatimid era.
Trinkets, Tea & Thoughts
After exploring this world-renowned
mosque-university, I roamed through the
edging Khan al-Khalil, one of the greatest
oriental bazaars in the world, ending my
day by purchasing a few souvenirs, of
course, after much bargaining.
Tired, I sat down in the very crowded
Fishawi's Tea House, much frequented by
entertainers, intellectuals and tourists.
Here, over a cup of tea, I contemplated
the passing scene. The 250-year old cafe,
still operated by the same family, consisted
of two long parts divided by a much-used
alleyway. Between the bumps of passersby, I thought of the Fatimids and their surviving monuments.
These impressive structures are well
worth exploring not only by those travellers interested in the history of Islam and
its civilization but also by anyone who
wants to discover Egypt beyond its famous
pyramids and temples of the Pharaohs.
More Info About Egypt:
Egyptian Tourist Authority in Canada
2020 University, Suite 2260
Montréal, QC H3A 2A5
Tel: 514-861-4420 Fax: 514-861-8071
Email: [email protected]
Official Website: www.egypt.travel
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