Restore mosaic/parquet guide

Transcription

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Wood You Like Ltd, 1 Sunnyside Villas, The Street - Great Chart, Ashford - Kent TN23 3AL, UK 01233 713725
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Free guide to restore your parquet floor without sanding
1.1
Why are mosaic floors back in fashion?
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1.2
Check-list before restoring/repairing
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1.3
To sand or not to sand?
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1.4
Repair/Restore/Cleaning Kits
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1.5
3 Easy Steps to Restore Your M osaic/Parquet Floor - without sanding
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S uccess stories (with or without sanding)
2.1
Hotel renovation
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2.2
The saga of the 5-finger mosaic floor painstakingly re-installed
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2.3
High praise for Saicos by DIY Grandma
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2.4
When patience is a virtue: extreme DIY project
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2.5
Something different than just Oak
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Free guide to restore your
parquet floor without sanding
Restore mosaic/parquet guide - 3
P ublished by Wood You Like Ltd
Why are mosaic floors back in fashion?
Since the 50's upto the 80's many bungalows (and other houses) were "fitted" out with a simple, easy to
supply and install solid wooden floor: the 5-finger mosaic floor.
Easy available materials.
Tropical wood-species such as M erbau, Rhodesian Teak and M ahogany were in sufficient numbers available
from (former) British colonies, cheaper - in those days - than European Hardwood species such as Oak.
Therefore many of the original mosaic floors are made from these three tropical species.
Bitumen, as dpm and adhesive, was also cheap to use (and health and safety regulation on VOC products was
not "invented" yet). Nowadays, it is illegal to be used inside homes due to (rightfully) changed VOC
regulations:
"Bitumen has been used as a sealant and waterproofing agent for over 8,000 years. It is a heavy black viscous
oil comprised of a mixture of sulfur, nickel, trace minerals, lead, chromium, mercury, arsenic, selenium, and
other toxic elements."
Carpets over mosaic
With the introduction of affordable synthetic wall-to-wall carpets this type of floorcovering became more and
more popular and many original mosaic (and other parquet floors) disappeared underneath it. The mosaic
"subfloor" formed an ideal base for carpets, grippers were simply nailed in place without any problems.
Every era has its own trends, and now (original) wooden floors are more and more replacing carpets to
establish a more healthier - no dust-mites hiding in the floor covering - more valuable, durable floor type.
Moving out, ripping out
When a bungalow comes up for sale now, because the owner is leaving either for the cemetery or old-peoples
home, new - young - owners more and more discover that underneath the existing floor covering a valuable
solid wooden floor is hiding.
And the trend nowadays in floor covering is more and more turning to easy to clean, eco-friendly and
hardwearing, long lasting products, such as wooden flooring.
The new owners then realise what "treasure" is actual underneath that - already planned to be replaced and
often horrible - carpet: an original wooden floor. And carpets are being ripped out left, right and centre all over
the UK to expose this original feature again.
And, of course, underneath old carpets other parquet patterns are being found too: from herringbone to
"fat-finger" mosaic (3 or 4 finger mosaic in larger tiles/blocks). As with a genuine mosaic floor, always worth
investigating if it can be brought back to its former grand glory.
Repair/restore and clean
But not all original mosaic (or other parquet) floors have survived the time hiding in a great shape.
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Some have tiles missing due to installation of central heating - and what did the plumber know of the
value of the floor he was simply ripping out to lay water pipes
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others have stains all over them from leaks or accidents where the damaged/stained carpets had been
replaced by perhaps the insurance company but no thoughts had been given to the "subfloor" (just cover
over it, no one will see)
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cheap carpet underlayment is sticking firmly to the wooden floor, various sets of grippers have punched
holes in the edges
No matter if you're a builder being asked to restore/repair the original floor or if you are the new owner of the
house giving it a go yourself, there are some simple steps to help you bring back this valuable and durable
wooden floor back to its original grandeur.
This guide will help you to check what is needed, what precautions to take, what steps to take in the process
and which products to use.
Check-list before restoring/repairing
Every home and situation is different, therefore this check-list cannot be regarded as complete for every
occasion. But based on our own and our clients' experience we do guarantee that it contains as much as
possible for most situations. If you feel your home and floor are in a different category of repair, just give us a
call and we will try to advice you more precise.
Missing tiles or fingers
Finding originals:
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Check in cupboards, under stair closets etc to see if the mosaic floor has been extended into there - you
might need to lift lino or vinyl floor covering.
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Check with neighbours - if they still have the original floor covering and have no plans to restore it, would
they be willing to "donate" tiles/fingers from an unobtrusive area?
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You could try reclamation yards, but don't hold your breath to find a match. Because the way these tiles
(blocks of 5 fingers) were constructed you could find - if at all - a large collection of loose fingers all in
different wood-species, different sizes and different quality. If you find matching ones, make sure you
know if they are covered with bitumen or cleaned - could make a great difference in the price you should
pay for it.
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If tiles/fingers are missing in a noticeable area (around fireplaces for instance - a focal point in many
rooms) is it possible to lift tiles/fingers from an area which is/will be covered with a large piece of
furniture?
Alternatives:
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Source a different size - 9 times out of 10 your original floor has imperial measurements, modern 5-finger
mosaic comes in metric sizes - and use these as "border" around your floor, freeing up original fingers to
fill the gaps where it is most noticeable
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If you are in the fortunate situation to find more than one room with still the original mosaic floor, is it
possible to re-use all tiles from the smallest room and install a new modern sized mosaic floor in its place
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be bold and daring: install modern size mosaic tiles diagonal in a small or large part of the room to create a
new and exciting focal point.
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with other patterns, such as wider blocks in herringbone pattern of "fat-finger" mosaic, there are (still)
parquet manufacturers who can make new blocks in matching sizes.
Check the quality of:
Bonding:
At various spots on the floor, knock to hear if the blocks/fingers are firmly attached to the underfloor. If it
sounds hollow, check for movement of individual fingers. Loose fingers/tiles should be lifted carefully, cleaned
and re-bonded.
Do note that old bitumen (both on wood and underfloor) can become brittle over time. Therefore it is highly
recommended to remove as much as possible from both, otherwise you will only be glueing brittle bitumen to
brittle bitumen (even when you use bitumen-based dip-adhesives).
Wood:
little holes in the wood, are they caused by grippers or wood-worm? If the latter is feared, check if there is still
activity going on (powdery dust in/near holes) and treat the floor with an appropriate product. Do check
beforehand if effected fingers are still sound and don't disintegrate underneath some pressure applied to it.
penetrated moist: if some areas show black spots, check if there are visual signs of moist (does it still feel/smell
"wet/moist"?) and integrity of the finger. Long term exposure to moist can rot the wood and it could even
crumble into dust. Remove all bad fingers/tiles and replace them with new.
Underfloor:
if tiles/fingers are missing - or need to be lifted due to damage - check the state/quality of the underfloor. If
needed, repair concrete with acrylic screed - make sure this is applied level and given time enough to dry.
Finish:
if varnished before, is the finish flaky? Flaky varnish layers should be removed by sanding the whole floor.
To sand or not to sand?
One of the most daunting task in repairing/restoring an original mosaic/parquet floor is sanding the old floor to
remove the old finish layer and level out any height differences between old and new parts.
However, it is not always absolutely needed to sand every re-discovered floor.
Sanding needed if:
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the old varnish finish has become flaky or completely worn off in a large area
new mosaic is installed and has ended up higher/lower than the old part, causing a trip hazard
the original floor had been stained in a colour you absolutely hate
moist had blackened parts of the floor (but the wood itself is still sound)
We've created a special "7 Easy steps to repair/restore your parquet floor" which covers the sanding task
extensively.
Sanding not needed if:
None of the above applies.
Dirt, old stains (not stains to change the colour of the whole floor), old wax layers and grime can be removed
by proper, intensive cleaning of the floor without the need of hiring/using sanding equipment.
And fortunately, most of the rediscovered original mosaic/parquet floors fall in this category.
Even if there is some cause to sand the floor, such as scratches, it might be worth to consider if you could live
with the result without sanding. We've seen it frequently that DIY sanded floors, using the wrong equipment,
resulted in an even worse result than before the sanding started. Especially drum-sanders from the regular
hire-centres are notorious to create shatter marks on your floor (from the iron rod that keeps the sanding paper
wrapped around the drum).
On the following pages you will find various, specially created by us for you, Repair/Restore and Cleaning
Kits to use for the Easy Steps to bring back the original grandeur of your mosaic/parquet floor without sanding.
Repair/Restore/Cleaning Kits
Now you've decided your mosaic/parquet floor can be restored without sanding, we're down to the choice of
which Repair/Restore or Cleaning Kit would be best for you.
Even if you are still doubting if your floor does need sanding after all, using one of these kits will at least clean
all the dirt, grime and even old-wax layers off - saving you time and loads of abrasives later on when you
decide to sand the floor after all.
(All links below, including the Kit names in bold, will open in a new window for your convenience)
Previously oiled/wax floors
If you are certain the original floor has been treated (perhaps ages ago) with oil or wax we have three options
for you, depending on the state of the finish itself:
No trace of finish at all:
Intensive Cleaning/Repair Kit for oiled/waxed floors
Complete kit to clean old dirt, grime etc from your rediscovered parquet floor with the eco-friendly M agic
Cleanser and apply a new oil coat in the sheen you prefer: from ultra-mat to high gloss (most popular sheen is
Satin-M at). Premium HardWaxOil in this kit covers 10 sq m in two coats.
This Kit can also be used if your floor has some traces of old varnish on it which can be hand-sanded off first
(hand-held belt-sander or handy small multi-funtional tool such as Fein M ulti-master).
Small areas without finish:
S mall Repair Kit (includes care products)
For instance where you have added a small area of new tiles/fingers and the remaining part of the floor only
needs some TLC. This Kit contains a small tin of Premium HardWaxOil (0.125 ltr) enough to cover 2 sq m in
two coats and two cleaning/caring products.
(Do not use this when the remainder of the floor still has varnish on it which does not need sanding, you
cannot combine the two type of finishes).
No bare wood at all:
EcoLine Cleaning Kit for all floor finish types: waxed/oiled/lacquered/varnished.
If your floor has not bare patches or new additional wood fingers/blocks, this is the most eco-friendly restore
kit you can have:
The M agic Cleanser will remove all the dirt, grime etc, the EcoLine Wax-Care Spray will bring back its original
lustre and keep it healthy, protected against dirt and drips. The EcoLine Wash-care can be used for future
regular moist cleaning.
Eco-friendly, the way forward.
Saicos Products are produced in accordance with the latest scientific researches regarding the best treatment of
wood.
Products are a professional and easy-care natural finish for all interior wood, environmentally friendly and
complying with the natural demands of wood. They are based on natural raw materials, is moisture regulating
and allows the wood to breathe (like the human skin). The wood retains its natural beauty.
Environmentally friendly - no biocides - no preservatives - safe for children's toys.
Varnished floors - or not sure what finish:
The above EcoLine Cleaning Kit is also highly suitable for parquet floors with an undamaged varnish/lacquer
finish. All three products can be safely used on all floor finish types to give you a clean and protective
replenished surface.
Not sure what to use?
The above Kits are carefully selected and combined by us - Wood You Like Ltd - based on our own and many
of our (DIY) clients experiences. They combine the most often ordered and used products for the task in hand
and conveniently packed in one box for you.
If, however, you are not sure what Kit to use for your floor, or if you feel none of the combinations contains
everything you need for your specific task, just give us a call on 01233 - 713725 during opening hours to
discuss further/alternative options. Or use our Support Service and ask your question through this online
system.
Another option is to browse our secure webshop on the following categories:
Care/Repair Kits
Restoration
Floor Oils
M aintenance
Adhesives
Fillers
3 Easy Steps to Restore Your Mosaic/Parquet Floor - without sanding
Hidden Treasure Exposed
What is a nicer surprise than to remove the carpet from a room in your home and to discover a valuable original
parquet floor is hiding beneath it! Especially when you consider that installing a brand new parquet floor costs
around £ 125.00 - £ 145.00 per sq m. And that’s just for a simple herringbone or basket weave pattern.
Your new discovery will at least need some TLC to bring back its grand lustre it had before it was
‘covered-up’. Follow our “3 easy steps" below and you will start enjoying your valuable, easy to clean and
anti-allergic original parquet floor in no time at all.
For all materials needed we’ve included a list of quality products underneath.
If your floor is missing some blocks, has damaged blocks – damages from plumbing comes to mind - or you
notice areas where the blocks no longer stuck firmly down on the underfloor see our guide "7 Easy S teps to
Repair/Restore your Parquet Floor".
But 9 times out of 10 some extra TLC is the only thing needed and to be honest, sanding down an authentic
'old-fashion' design parquet removes much of its appealing character.
Step 1: Cleaning carpet residue, old layers of wax and old dirt
Carpet residue
Depending on how long the carpet has been down and how this was installed you will find more or less old
carpet underlayment and carpet grippers sticking to your wooden floor. Some old fashioned 'elbow grease' has
to be applied to remove most of this without damaging your valuable discovery.
Carpet grippers should be remove with care by gently lifting the gripper out of the wood. Sticking a chisel
under one end of the gripper and by careful wriggling it should come off without damaging your wooden floor.
Or use a screwdriver to lift the staples out of the gripper first, that way when you have to use more force only
the gripper itself takes the blunt of it.
Tear of as much of the carpet underlayment as possible manually - consider it a labour of love.
Don't use a damaged metal scraper to remove the last bits of foam, make sure if you use a sharp object that the
edge is straight. Hard plastic scrapers might work better. As last resort use M ineral Spirit or lacquer thinner but always read the instructions carefully before you use these chemicals, wear gloves and face-protection and
make sure there is sufficient ventilation in the room!
Old wax-layers
If you notice a dark, sticky substance on the floor, your original parquet floor has been treated with too much
wax in the past. 'Wax-removers' from most brands only work on newly installed floors, not really on wax that
has been covered over for years. In our experience using White Spirit still works best to remove these old
layers. Again, when using chemicals always read the instructions carefully, wear gloves and face-protection
and make sure the room is well ventilated.
Or you could give it an intensive eco-friendly cleaning with Saicos Ecoline M agic Cleanser that soaks in the
old wax and grime layers and is simply removed with non-fluffy cloths.
Old dirt
After you removed the carpet you will notice a layer of dust and dirt, no matter how well or often the carpet
has been vacuum cleaned. Either use a soft broom or decent vacuum cleaner (preferably a cylinder cleaner with
brush nozzle; the wheels of an upright cleaner could scratch your floor when too much pressure is applied) to
remove it. For reluctant dirt use a (clean) hard brush to shift it.
After this rigorous treatment most dirt will have gone. To finish the cleaning part of the job use a natural
detergent (cleaning soap, for instance Wash-care or even M agic Cleanser) diluted in water to remove the
remaining dirt. Don't use washing-up liquid, that might be good for your hands but is not suitable for wooden
floors! Wash the floor with a small quantity of water (well-wrung out cloth), use a scrubber if needed.
For persistent dirt leave the solution on the floor for 5 minutes and then with a clean cloth remove it again.
Rinse your cloth regularly with clean water and then wash the floor for a last time with cleaning soap as first
described. Give the floor time to dry.
Your floor is now clean, but will look dull and pretty sad.
Step 2: Applying much needed maintenance
Depending on the finish type your newly discovered floor has - varnish/lacquer or wax/oil - you will need a
suitable maintenance product. Power Wax or Wax-polish on a varnished floor will create a slippery surface.
If you are not sure what type of finish is originally used you can try to determine this as follows: in an
inconspicuous area, corner or behind a door, apply two drops of water. If, within ten minutes white spots
appear under the drops of water, the floor has a wax/oil finish. (To remove the white spots, gently rub the spots
with 000 steel wool dampened with wax.) If the finish does not flake from scratching with a coin and white spots
do not appear from the drops of water, the floor has a surface (lacquered/varnished) finish.
Update Feb 2011: Saicos Wash-care and Saicos (VOC-free) EcoLine Wax-care Spray are suitable for all floor
finish types - see below
For a varnished/lacquered floor most maintenance product come in the form of a polish, for an oiled/waxed
floor you have the choice between a polish or a hard wax (power wax). If your floor is really dull and looks
rather tired it's best to apply power wax, a bit more hand-and-knee work but your floor will definitely love
you for it.
Polishes: shake the closed bottle firmly, open the lid and sprinkle the polish undiluted over your floor and use
an applicator to spread it out. Leave to dry out for 10 - 15 minutes
The brand new S aicos EcoLine wax-care spray is even easier to use, just spray a tiny little bit on the floor,
spread out with a polish applicator, dry in 5 - 10 minutes. VOC-free and suitable for both oiled and lacquered
floors!
Hard wax (power wax): scoop some wax out of the tin and drop it on your floor. Spread and rub the wax out
with a none-fluffy cloth, small areas at the time. Leave to dry out for 10 - 15 minutes.
If your old floor looks really tired apply a second coat of the power wax in the same way.
Step 3: Buffing the floor
Buffing your floor after applying the maintenance product will give a better result.
M ost electric small buffing machines are too light for this work, they will hardly have any buffing effect on
your wooden floor. Either use a semi-professional buffer with a large white pad or, which still works best, an
'old-fashion' buffing-block made of cast-iron (weights 7 kg!) - comes with our 100% guarantee.
The movement of the pad or buffing block will warm the applied maintenance product, spreading it our even
more evenly and allowing the wood to absorb it more. Plus it reduces the time your floor feels slippery. After
every buffing stroke you will see your floor come back to live more and more until you've brought it back to
its original and sparkling lustre. Specially an oiled/wax floor will start to show its natural beautiful character
again.
It's recommended to apply a maintenance product at least every 5 - 6 months, more often in heavy traffic
areas, to keep your wooden floor protected against dirt and drips and to feed the wood for long term durability.
Congratulations
You are now the pride owner of a valuable, durable, easy to clean and anti-allergic original parquet flooring.
Remember, a newly installed parquet floor would have set you back £ 125.00 - £ 145.00 per sq m. With these
3 easy steps you do this labour of love for a lot less!
Take good care of it now, it will reward you for years and years to come!
Success stories (with or without
sanding)
Hotel renovation
From the desk of UK's importer of Saicos Products:
One of our clients used the M agic Cleanser when renovating hotel room floors and said it saved him from
sanding the floor as it got rid of all the dirt and cleaning soap on the floor. He applied Saicos premium
HardWaxOil on top.
Use 1: 10 dilute with water and apply on the floor and leave it for 20 minutes and clean the floor with a wet
mop/wiper. Leave the floor to completely dry(8 hours) before re-oiling or re-waxing.
The saga of the 5-finger mosaic floor painstakingly re-installed
Once in a while a conversation in our inbox turns into a complete and wonderful saga. Read on......
(Whole "conversation" published with approval of our client)
Why HardWaxOil?
Question: Why should I use Hard Wax Oil rather than A Good quality Varnish such as M ega, Bono Nova etc
on my Parquet Floor which I am currently restoring? This is a 5 finger parquet. I have in the past used the
above varnish very successfully on in excess of 5 or six pine and oak floors and wonder why you would
choose the HWO finish? I would also like to buy your M odern Parquet Floor Adhesive to re-install a few
loose 'fingers' that have become loose-do you deliver to the Saltdean area of Brighton? Thanks for your help, I
enjoyed your web pages.
David H
Hi David
Thank you for your question. You are absolutely free to choose whatever finish you like, if you prefer varnish
then who are we to stop you?
We prefer an oil (HardWaxOil for Oak, single oil and wax-polish for tropical species) because in our and many
of our clients experiences it is easy to apply, and brings out the character of the wood much better than a
varnish. Oil allows the wood to breathe while it is protected against dirt and drips. Also, damages can be
repaired locally without having to sand the whole floor to prevent patches where new varnish overlaps old
varnish.
What wood-species is your parquet floor?
If you only have a few loose blocks/fingers, grip-fill can be used. No need to purchase a minimum tub of 7.5
F.Ball B91 adhesive.
Hand sanded!
Hello Karin, Thank you very much for your quick and candid and very informative rely-nothing like a direct
answer I say. I didn't mean to portray myself as a Smart Alec but re-reading my email I see that I could have
been more friendly. I'm sorry for any offense.
I'm actually really interested in HWO - my floor is an oak parquet. So following your reply I might well
apply it. I have hand sanded it - yes hand sanded about 1000 sets or blocks. I did the same with my dining
room - I don't like sanders -dangerous things. Each set or bloc contains 5 'fingers'. Each finger is four and a half
inches inches long by one inch wide by 3/8 thick. Perhaps between 50 or 60 'fingers' have come away from
their blocs so I need a good adhesive to stick them back to their respective block. Do you sell such an
adhesive? Also what price is the HWO? M y hallway is 12 sq meters.
Finally I have been told that HWO is not very easy to apply. You would appear to think differently - how
easy is it really to apply? Look fwd to your reply.
Hi David
Absolutely no offense taken! Wow, hand sanded all of it, that must have taken a time.
What type of underfloor do you have? If it is really single fingers here and there missing from a block of 5 you
could either use the below mentioned gripfill, or apply F.Ball B91 or B92 adhesive to the back of the finger
with a notched trowel "knife"
As for the ease of applying HardWaxOil, in our opinion it is more forgiving to small application mistakes than
varnish/lacquer. Reading and following the instructions of use will of course make it easier - we will supply
you with our own instructions of use, containing more tips than the instructions on any of the brands.
All it needs is a bare sanded, dust and grease free (as dust free as possible, on site you never have the "perfect
conditions"), a plastic tray, a polish applicator (or professional HardWaxOil applicator - if you plan to do
more floors over time), a non-fluffy cloth (or medium coarse pad if you are using a semi-professional buffing
machine) and applying the second coat within 36 - 48 hours. And not to panic when after the first coat the
floor looks a bit patchy - it happens, and normally applying the second coat will sort this patchiness.
Hope this helps
What products?
Hello again Karin, thanks for all the info. I have a concrete floor under the parquet.
When the parquet was put down it was stuck to the concrete floor by bitumen therefore before I can re adhere
the blocks and fingers to the concrete floor I will first have to remove the old black bitumen - not an easy job.
So to properly complete my task I gather that I will need the following items;
Sufficient HWO for say 15 sq/mt
A Polish Applicator (has this to be collected from your shop?)
Adhesive to attach the detached fingers to the blocks of 5
Adhesive to attach the blocks or single fingers to the concrete floor
Notched trowel knife
Various cloth buffers (I will not be using a commercial or domestic polisher as I don't have one-does this
matter very much?
A good set of instructions
Anything else? Are you able to supply all or most of these items?
Hi David
You are right to remove as much bitumen as possible, it will effect the bonding time of the adhesive.
The HardWaxOil applicator is the one that I can no longer dispatch by courier because of the changed
mechanism of the tool (longer metal bar as gripper for the sponge). You could use what we normally call the
(maintenance) polish applicator: a simple t-bar with woolen sleeve. M ore and more DIY-ers (and even
professionals) use this to apply the HardWaxOil on small jobs.
You need either 2 x 1 ltr HardWaxOil natural (1 ltr covers 10 sq m in two coats) or 1 x 1 ltr and 2 x 0.25 ltr.
I'll add some cloths to your order (clean but discarded tea towels from hotels etc - not up to standard for them,
extremely useful for us). Instead of using a buffing machine some of our clients have used our 7kg buffing block
(cast iron with bristles underneath) where the block is wrapped in a plastic back to keep the bristles clean,
then wrapped a cloth around it and used the block to spread out the applied HardWaxOil.
The buffing block is also an ideal, eco-friendly, maintenance tool so if you buy this you will have a
maintenance tool at the same time to use for years and years to come.
RAF billets?
Karin, Sorry I haven't spoken to you yet but I will - I'm busy sanding down my study (4mx3m=12sqm) as I
want to purchase enough materials for both jobs. Will you please add that into your cost calculations.
Does the HWO have a long shelf-life? How do you manipulate the polish applicator? Is it simply by pushing
like a broom/mop?-much like the old hand buffers we used to have to polish our billets with in the RAF?
Rgs,DH
Sorry in the delay in getting back to you. Best would be then to order 2 x 1 ltr and 4 x 0.25 ltr. Although
HardWaxOil has a long shelf life, it can go off once opened.
Whenever an ex-soldier/navy person comes in our showroom and sees our cast iron buffing block (with broom
stick attached, have to sell them without due to delivery charges) it does indeed remind them of that
honourable task of polishing the billets
So you use the T-bar polish applicator with the woolen sleeve to apply the HardWaxOil to the floor, then
with a plastic bag and cloth wrapped around the buffing block spread it out and work it in (gently).
The project gets bigger and bigger!
Hello Again, I've been on my knees for two weeks finishing sanding the hall and just now my studio. In
addition I have cleaned, free from Bitumen, 326 fingers, sanded all six sides, cut to shape and size by hand
where needed and replaced them in the hallway and filled in all the small cracks and spaces between the
squares.
Only now need to sand with 80 Grit and finish with 120 grit (both Hall and Studio-but both already looking
great - how some folk can paint on an Oak floor without covering up and how others (plumbers) tear up and
replace in places with concrete a parquet floor is a puzzle - but I got it all off or dug up.
The studio is 274 'fingers' short so I'm having them made by a local small (two man) joinery company whom
I've had many dealings with in the past-used to work next door to them. I have had to take the skirting off both
rooms so I am replacing them with Oak skirting - only problem this comes in 20 M M thickness whilst the old
stuff was 15mm. So that means the Archives of the doors have to come off - I had already planned to have
new Oak doors fitted - this project is getting bigger but manageable.
So now to the Wax Oil-a question for you. I am loathe to put this on in advance of the skirting in case of
builder/joiner damage. Are my fears needless?
A question on Wax Oil from my wife! Are we liable to be needing Wellington boots to wade through the oil?
Visions of the Gulf oil spill comes to mind-does it really soak in leaving a sound dry surface? I am taking a big
step into the dark having never used this treatment before and after all my hard work I really need a great finish
- no patchiness or wet areas etc - reassurance needed please..!
I think that is you up to date, thanks for your various messages - sorry for tardy response.
Best Wishes & Thanks, David H.
Hi David
Wow, that's what I call feed back and keeping us up to date! Would love to publish this - with your agreement
- on our blog about the efforts some of our DIY clients got to to re-instate a valuable original feature in their
home.
For the skirtingboards you can "paint" it on afterwards, as long as you have a non-fluffy cloth ready to spread
it out better and even kind of buff it in (you can even go over non-treated areas with the cloth).
We know the Gulf oil spill is not something anyone wants, but rest assured, it will not happen on your floor
(or you'll have to drop the can of HardWaxOil onto it by accident!).
Best is to shake/stir the can first and then pore an amount in a plastic (paint) tray. We normally start at the
edge of the floor with a sponge or polish applicator dipped in the tray first. Do small areas first, say 30 cm
band in front of the wall. Go over the freshly applied HWO with a non-fluffy cloth to spread it out better and
to buff it in a bit.
Continue the rest of the room by starting a little bit over the already treated area, so no dark or accentuated
edges appear.
I've attached our own instructions of use for HardWaxOil (tells a bit more than you normally find on the tin).
Just take your time, make sure the floor is clean and dry before you start (although some dust etc will never
absolutely be band). If possible, after you have applied the HWO to the whole room, go over it with a
semi-professional buffing machine using a medium coarse pad.
It does happen sometimes that after the first coat you will see more or less patched of shiny or dull spots.
Nothing to worry about, in those areas the wood has absorbed more or less than the surrounding area.
Applying the second coat (within 36 - 48 hours!) will normally take care of this. Even if after the second coat
has dried you could see some patchy areas - DO NOT APPLY A THIRD COAT! Leave it for a week or so
and when these patches are still noticeable, just apply some liquid wax-polish (maintenance product).
Hope this helps and looking forward to some pictures of the end result.
Thanks for quick response and re-assurance. Yes of course, use any material of mine you might wish to. I have
pictures of 'before' and I'll take some of 'after and make sure you get copies.
So we are now eagerly awaiting the "before and "after" pictures, and we're sure you are too! And we're are
also sure you are as much in awe of the painstaking preparations David has/is taking to lovely restore his
mosaic floor.
Stay tuned for the next chapter in this saga.
High praise for Saicos by DIY Grandma
DIY-ers come in all shapes and forms and ages.
M rs M . Lewis, a grandmother from Swansea, decided in June it was high time to restore the original parquet
floor in her house. Gaining knowledge about the steps to take from the "7 Easy Steps to Restore/Repair your
Parquet Floor" she became confident she could do all the works herself.
Tropical Combo
When she first contacted us, the hardest part - sanding the old finish off - was already done. She just needed to
know which finish would be best for her tropical floor and we advised to use the "tropical combo" from
Saicos.
Saicos doesn't call the combination of the two oil products this way, we baptised it ourselves last year when
we had to look for an alternative for the thin oil (Euku oil 1) which, due to VOC regulations, was not longer
being produced. Our own experience with Saicos Colour Wax Clear extra thin, followed by one coat of Saicos
Premium HardWaxOil (or in lesser traffic areas with Saicos Wax-Polish) proved to us it was a very worthy if
not better alternative.
(Side-note: Saicos' Colour Wax products are a thin oil and not - as the name suggests - a wax).
Tropical wood species are oily of themselves, which, when applying HardWaxOil as first coat, can result in
patchy areas when the oil in the HWO can not penetrate the wood enough before the wax part of the HWO
starts doing its work. Therefore it is better to apply a thin - single - oil first, which can do its work to
penetrate the wood for long term protection undisturbed, followed by one coat of HardWaxOil.
Uncertainties gone
This week M rs Lewis called us again with high praise for the "Tropical Combo". (Image courtesy of
WP-clipart)
It had been so easy to apply, she told us, and brought out the original grandeur of the parquet floor in no time
at all.
"And it is so hardwearing! I don't have to worry about the floor when my grand children visit, it doesn't show
anything at all."
One worry she did have after applying the Colour Wax Clear was the fact it seemed to dry up a bit dull, not
what she had expected. But after applying the coat of HardWaxOil the sheen of the original tropical floor
showed up, dissolving her fear she had not applied the first coat correctly.
"You should tell this better in your guide! You know how people are uncertain about these things, doing this
for a first time, and telling them upfront what to expect takes away these uncertanties."
Point taken, M rs Lewis.
The reason M rs Lewis called us was one little area of the restored floor stayed dull, she thought it might have
had something to do with sanding this particular area more than others - closing the grain. Should she apply a
second coat of HardWaxOil there?
In these cases we recommend to treat the spot with wax or wax-polish first, 9 times out of 10 this solves the
dullness and it rather quickly to do.
(Side-note: one of the advantages of using HardWaxOil over varnish/lacquer is the fact you can "repair" small
areas locally without having to sand down the whole floor again. Varnish/lacquer applied only on a small area
can result in a patchy appearance when new finish overlaps with old finish, this will not show when you use
HWO.)
Now she experienced the great result of her first floor restoring project M rs Lewis has changed her mind about
buying new rugs to put on the floors of the bedrooms, covering the original parquet in there.
"They are too beautiful to stay covered up really and now I know how well and simple your Tropical Combo
products work I'm more than confident I can bring back their grandeur too."
Who are we to argue?
In our secure webshop you will find everything you need to repair/restore your own original parquet floor too
- or if you live in Kent, you can even let us do the works for you.
When patience is a virtue: extreme DIY project
DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)
Last year, around Christmas, we received the following email:
Hello, We are going to extend our floor area of basket woven wooden tiles, size 2x11.5 cm, 5 strips make one
square. We can only find second hand matching tiles. After cleaning the the edges of the strips, can they be
glued good side down, making a patterned square, onto a base, which then can be glued to the cement floor.
The top will then be sanded smooth to remove bitumen/cement. The cleaned floor will then be fine sanded and
sealed.
What kind of adhesive can be used to preglue the tiles on some kind of a base. What kind of base can we use
for this? Surely each strip does not have to be glued individually onto the cement floor? One should be able to
make a larger square first, for easier laying. Thank you so much for giving us advice on this. Looking forward
to hear from you. Kind regards and M erry Christmas.
Hi Jack
Thank you for your question. These mosaic floors normally come in tile-form with either "mesh (string)
backing" or felt-backing.
Would the mahogany we have available not suit you?
Otherwise, cleaned "fingers" can be glued individually to the concrete (and you'll be surprised how quickly you
can do this once you get the "rhythm"). Often works better than trying for form a blocks of fingers first and
installing the 5 fingers together.
If fingers and floor is clean of bitumen, F.Ball B91 is the adhesive to use
Hope this helps and M erry Christmas to you too.
Hi, So impressed to have got an answer so instantaneously!!
We most likely will try to lay the "fingers' one by one, as you suggested. What will our old knees look like?
We will let you know about the end result!
We are in South Africa, close to Cape Town, so we won't buy anything from you! Thought we let you know.
Kind regards,
Jack
Hi Jack
Thanks for the reply. Knees will no doubt hold firm
Looking forward to an update (with images if possible!)
And that is exactly what our South African friends did last month: pictures which tell their own story of this
extreme DIY project":
We would like to give you an update of our flooring.
We had an extension done to our house and this needed a matching continuation of our parquet flooring.
The kind of parquet we needed was the ' basket weave ' pattern. We got hold of second hand pieces ( 5"x1"),
dirty looking ones in bags. We bought them with a rather reluctant feeling.
The wood is Kiaat/wild teak/Pterocarpus angolensis.
They were all cleaned, fumigated and sorted into different colours and placed into bundles of 5 'fingers' with an
elastic band put around them.
The concrete floor got a 2 layer water proofing laid by a roller brush.
We were fortunate to get hold of a man, Henry, who knew the trick of laying/glueing the parquet.
The glue used was Pekay's wood block adhesive.
The tiles were laid with the old glued side up, showing the cement still attached to the tiles.
The floor was sanded.
The floor was treated with 3 coats of Bona Novia.
Have a look at the photos we have attached. We are happy with the matching floors. The end result looks very
good.
All of them went over the "sand bench"
Then they were "bundled" per 5 fingers, ready to be installed.
Bundle by bundle - with the "concrete side up" the mosaic is installed
After the floor is sanded to remove the concrete/screed and level the pattern, the manual filling of the gaps
starts.
The end result and a very great result it is
Something different than just Oak
Late last year we were asked to sand down and restore an original Parquet floor, herringbone pattern. Our
clients was not really sure what wood-species his floor was, it looked a bit dark: stained wood or a dark
species?
Sanding reveals all
The minute our "work-horse" started its work, removing the old finish layers, it became clear not one but
various wood-species were involved here! Oak, Walnut, some Iroko and M aple and perhaps some other ones
(some wood-species are difficult to determine, knowing there are around 3000 different species all in all!)
Sanding the wood bare and eliminating all height differences with our workhorse "Viper" re-exposed this truly
unique parquet floor for the first time in many, many years.
A final sanding with the "M ultidisk" prepared the floor for the new finish: natural oil this time to let every
wood-species involved show off its own character.
As final treatment the floor received a thorough buffing.
Our client was amazed his floor had turned from dark and spotty into this bright, "glowing" and very, very
colourful original parquet floor.
If you have an original parquet floor in your home (inherited from the previous owners) the old dark and
spotty finish on it might just cover a marvelous treasure too! Call the professionals to do a small test with a
professional sander and who knows, you could well have a valuable floor in your own home without realising
it at the moment.

Restore mosaic/parquet guide

Transcription

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