INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Wattage Decathlon EP's features include: full, four-channel aerobatic control (like the full-scale Decathlon), a one
piece wing, lightweight aluminum main landing gear and a battery hatch for quick, easy access to your flight battery. The
airplane also features a molded, clear windshield, side windows and a molded prepainted plastic cowling and wheel
pants. High-quality hardware, such as pushrods, control horns, clevises, main gear wheels and steerable tail wheel are
also included. The Decathlon EP is a no-compromise aircraft experienced hobbyists will appreciate. It makes a great
intermediate plane for park-flyer pilots looking for more performance.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY
Decathlon EP ARF Specifications:
The Wattage Decathlon EP ARF is distributed
exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors
18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
All contents copyright © 2004, Global Hobby
Distributors Version V1.0 July 2004
Kit Product Number 128389
1
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Wing Span: 28.75 Inches
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Wing Area: 151 Square Inches
●
Length: 24.25 Inches
●
Weight RTF: 14 - 15 Ounces
●
Wing Loading: 13 - 14.3 Ounces Per Square Foot
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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder & Throttle
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Motor Required: 370 w/3.67:1 Gear Box & 7.5 x 5 Prop
●
Radio Required: 4Ch or More Micro w/3 Micro Servos
●
ESC Required: 15 Amp Micro
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Battery Required: 8 Cell 5/4AAA 800mAH NiMH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Safety Warning ........................................................................... 2
Section 14: Balancing the Decathlon EP ARF ....................... 26
Introduction ................................................................................. 3
Section 15: Control Throws ..................................................... 26
Section 1: Our Recommendations ............................................ 4
Section 16: Preflight Check and Safety .................................. 27
Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required .................................. 5
Product Evaluation Sheet ........................................................ 31
Section 3: Kit Contents ............................................................. 6
Section 4: Replacement Parts .................................................. 7
Section 5: A Note About Covering ............................................ 7
Section 6: Stabilizer Installation ................................................ 8
Section 7: Hinging the Control Surfaces ................................ 12
Section 8: Landing Gear Installation ...................................... 15
Section 9: Motor and Cowling Installation .............................. 16
Section 10: Elevator & Rudder Control Systems Installation .. 18
Section 11: Aileron Control System Installation ..................... 20
Section 12: Windshield and Side Windows Installation ......... 22
Section 13: Final Assembly ..................................................... 24
SAFETY WARNING
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control
system and any other components purchased separately.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and
during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified
instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to
help you locate a flying field near you.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
OUR GUARANTEE
Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts
damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the
use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
2
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Wattage Decathlon EP ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new
airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success
the first time around!
WATTAGE DECATHLON EP ARF FEATURES
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Prebuilt from High-Quality Balsa and Light Plywood.
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Precovered with Real Iron-On, Heat-Shrink Covering Material
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Lightweight, Aluminum Main Landing Gear Bracket
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Molded Plastic Cowling, Wheel Pants and Tail Fairing.
●
Molded Clear Windshield and Side Windows.
●
Includes a Generous, High-Quality Hardware Package
●
Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 50 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings to Guide You
This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least
amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that
will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before
beginning assembly.
Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete and
straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the
small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
●
●
We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take
your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and
great flying airplane.
●
There are check boxes next to each procedure. After
you complete a procedure, check off the box. This will
help prevent you from losing your place.
●
☞
If you come across this symbol
, it means that this is
an important point or an assembly hint.
●
Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth,
both to protect the table and to protect the parts.
●
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please contact us at the
address below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Check out our website for more information on
this and other exciting Wattage products!
http://watt-age.globalhobby.com
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: [email protected]
CHECK IT OUT! We urge you to come check out our website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com. There you will find public
message boards frequented by other Wattage product owners and the Wattage support staff. This is a great place to learn about
new Wattage products, get help and suggestions for your current Wattage products or just simply hang out and chat with people who
share your same interests.
To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us.
Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and
tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important
information about your product as it becomes available.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.
3
SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new
Wattage Decathlon EP ARF. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with tips
and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations
may result in a poor flying airplane.
✦ When choosing accessories for your Decathlon EP ARF, such as servos, ESC, receiver and other
✦ IMPORTANT✦
related accessories, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the
overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.
What Motor Do I Use?
The Decathlon EP ARF is designed for use with the Wattage 370 power system. This power system includes a 370 motor,
3.67:1 gear box and a 7.5 x 5 propeller. Of course, other similar output power systems can be used. The Wattage 370
power system provides excellent power for good all-around flying at an affordable price. Matched with an 8 cell 5/4AAA
800mAH NiMH flight battery, you can expect this power system to fly the airplane for approximately 8 minutes per charge.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ Although direct drive motors can be used, you will need to supply and add motor mounting rails to the
firewall to mount your motor to. Motors that use a gear box with mounting tabs can simply be mounted to the front of
the firewall with the wood screws provided.
For high-performance flight, an Astro Flight 010 geared motor or similar brushless motor with matching ESC and 1100mAH
to 1400mAH 2-3 cell lithium-polymer flight battery can be used.
What Servos Do I Use?
The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos
that weigh no more than 0.34 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 11 ounces per square inch. Cirrus CS-4.4
servos, Cirrus CS-6.5 servos or Hitec HS-55 servos would be a perfect choice.
What Radio and Receiver Do I Use?
You will need to use a 4 or more channel radio system. The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or
less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good choice. We personally suggest using the Cirrus MRX-4II, the
Hitec 555 Micro or the Hitec Electron 6 Micro. If you do use one of the Hitec receivers, we suggest removing the case to
reduce the receiver's weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver, we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with
heat-shrink material to protect the internal components.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The MRX-4II receiver has a range of approximately 500 yards (~1/4 mile). Keep this in mind when
flying the airplane while using this receiver.
What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?
The ESC you choose should be matched to the specifications of your motor. If you're using the Wattage 370 power
system, the ESC you choose should be capable of handling no less than 10 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is
better. Your ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch. The Wattage IC-15A ESC is a good
choice for most power systems used in this airplane.
What Flight Battery Do I Use?
The flight battery you choose should be matched to the specifications of the power system you've chosen. This will
determine the number and type of cells you should be using. If you're using the Wattage 370 power system with the 3.67:1
gear box and 7.5 x 5 propeller, we have found that the Wattage 8 cell 5/4AAA 800mAH NiMH flight battery works best. This
flight battery is lightweight and produces enough power to fly the airplane with authority. It can also handle discharge rates
up to approximately 10 amps and can provide about 8 minutes of flight time on a full charge.
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Continued On Next Page
☛
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS, CONTINUED....
Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Decathlon EP ARF:
QTY. 1
145346
Wattage 370 Power System w/Gear Box and Propeller
QTY. 1
443534
Cirrus MRX-4II Micro Receiver
QTY. 1
4462xx
Cirrus Crystal for MRX-4II Micro Receiver
QTY. 3
444038
Cirrus CS-6.5 Micro Servos
QTY. 1
128484
Wattage IC-15A Micro Electronic Speed Control
QTY. 1
128538
8 Cell 5/4AAA 800mAH NiMH Flight Battery
QTY. 1
145310
Wattage Spinner for 370 Power System
QTY. 1
130108
Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Park Flyer Charger
QTY. 1
444713
Cirrus 12" Servo Extension (Optional)
The MRX-4II Micro receiver uses a 50U-compatible
micro crystal, Cirrus P/N 4462XX, XX being the
frequency number of your transmitter (e.g., if your
transmitter is on frequency number 52, the crystal you
would purchase would be P/N 446252).
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ When choosing the propeller and flight battery for your particular motor, double-check that the power system will
not draw more amperage than your motor is designed for.
The part number listed for the Cirrus servos is compatible with all radio control systems. This servo uses a universal connector. The
part number listed for the Cirrus MRX-4II Micro receiver is compatible with all radio control systems. This receiver features auto-shift
select. The part number listed for the Cirrus servo extension is compatible with Hitec and JR radio control systems. This item is also
available for Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems. The Wattage IC-15A Micro ESC is compatible with Futaba, JR, Hitec,
Airtronics-Z and others.
When you purchase the Cirrus MRX-4II Micro receiver, you must also purchase a Cirrus brand crystal compatible with the receiver.
The crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter.
SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your new Wattage Decathlon EP ARF. We
suggest having these items on hand before beginning assembly.
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑ Ruler
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑ Pencil
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567677
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue # 339176
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ #0, #1 & #2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Waxed Paper
❑ Adjustable Wrench
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑ Scissors
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120*
❑ Assorted Drill Bits
❑ Solder*
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977
❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes)*
*These items may be necessary for the installation of your power system.
5
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: [email protected]
✦✦✦✦
✦✦✦✦
✦✦✦✦IMPORTANT WARNING✦✦✦✦
Before assembling and flying your new Wattage Decathlon
EP ARF, it's important to double-check the wing for warps.
Because of the wings lightweight construction, it's possible
that a warp could have been introduced during the shipping
process. Please see page # 28 for more information.
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑ (1) Fuselage w/Battery Hatch Cover
❑ (2) 12-3/4" Threaded Pushrod Wires w/Z-Bends
❑ (1) One-Piece Wing w/Ailerons
❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Backplates
❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator
❑ (2) Nylon Clevises
❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
❑ (4) M2 x 8mm Machine Screws
❑ (6) C/A Style Hinges
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE AND WING PARTS
❑ (1) Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear Bracket
❑ (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire w/Tail Wheel
❑ (1) Molded Plastic Cowling
❑ (2) Molded Plastic Wheel Pants
❑ (1) Molded Windshield and Side Windows Set
❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels
❑ (1) Molded Plastic Tail Fairing
❑ (2) M2.5 x 25mm Machine Screws
❑ (1) Plywood ESC/Receiver Mounting Plate
❑ (6) M2.5 Hex Nuts
❑ (1) Plywood Flight Battery Mounting Plate w/Velcro Strap
❑ (4) M2.5 Flat Washers
❑ (6) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws
❑ (2) M3 x 10mm Wood Screws
❑ (2) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
®
❑ (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM
❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Self-Tapping Screw
❑ (2) 2" Threaded Pushrod Wires w/Z-Bends
❑ (1) Double-Sided Foam Tape
❑ (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
❑ (1) Decal Set
❑ (2) Nylon Clevises
❑ (1) Molded Plastic Servo Tray
❑ (6) C/A Style Hinges
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in
6
SECTION 4: REPLACEMENT PARTS
We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your new Wattage Decathlon EP ARF. Listed below are the replacement
parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering
directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Wattage products, you can order directly from us at the
address shown below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: [email protected]
Wattage Decathlon EP ARF - Complete ................ 128389 Hardware Set .......................................................... 143974
Instruction Manual ................................................. 143967 Landing Gear Bracket ............................................. 143975
Wing Set ................................................................ 143968 Main Gear Wheels .................................................. 143976
Fuselage Set .......................................................... 143969 Tail Wheel Assembly ............................................... 143977
Stabilizer Set .......................................................... 143970 Decal Set ................................................................ 143978
Cowling .................................................................. 143971
Windshield and Side Windows Set ........................ 143972
Wheel Pants Set .................................................... 143973
SECTION 5: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING
The covering material used on the Wattage Decathlon EP ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap
"shelf paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may
wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible
you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat
Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.
Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:
❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for
approximately 5 - 7 minutes.
❑ After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering.
Move the sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools
back down, it will return to its normal color.
☞ If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial
down and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color
streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.
PRO TIP We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct
sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could distort the molded plastic parts and/or cause the covering
material to wrinkle and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or flight battery.
7
SECTION 6: STABILIZER INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Fuselage w/Battery Hatch Cover
❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
❑ (1) One-Piece Wing w/Ailerons
❑ (1) Molded Plastic Tail Fairing
❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator
❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Self-Tapping Screw
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue
❑ Masking Tape
❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ Ruler
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
❑ Pencil
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE WING
❑ Carefully apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the
predrilled threaded wing hold-down hole in the fuselage.
✦ WARNING✦
✦ Allow the C/A to dry completely before
proceeding or you may inadvertently glue the wing
hold-down screw into the fuselage.
The C/A will harden the threads in the plywood, preventing
them from stripping out over time.
❑ Remove the two ailerons from the wing and set them aside for now.
☞ The ailerons are temporarily held in place for packing purposes, using thin plastic tabs in the hinge slots. These plastic
tabs can be thrown away at this time.
❑ After the C/A has fully cured, set the wing into the wing
saddle and secure it into place, using one M3 x 20mm
self-tapping screw.
☞ Don't overtighten the screw or you'll crush the wing.
It
only needs to be tightened until snug.
STEP 2: ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
❑ Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer and set it aside for now. Again, you can throw away the temporary
plastic tabs that are in the hinge slots.
8
Continued On Next Page
☛
❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering
material from the top of the stabilizer mounting sides.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ Remove as much covering material as
possible to ensure a strong glue joint.
❑ Using a ruler, builder's triangle and a pencil, carefully
measure and draw a vertical centerline across the top of the
horizontal stabilizer.
☞ The stabilizer has no top or bottom.
Choose whichever
side looks better to you for the top.
❑ Set the stabilizer onto the fuselage and temporarily align it.
When aligned properly, the centerline you drew on top of the
stabilizer should be lined up with the centerline of the fuselage,
at both the front and the back, and the trailing edge of the
stabilizer should be even with the back of the fuselage.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ There will be a large gap between the front of the stabilizer and the fuselage. This is normal. This gap
will be covered when you install the molded plastic tail fairing later.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing edge of the stabilizer in position, using a T-Pin. The front of the
stabilizer should be able to pivot from side to side and the back should stay firmly in place. Double-check that the centerline
of the stabilizer, at the trailing edge, is centered with the back of the fuselage.
❑ Use a ruler to carefully measure the distance between the
tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of
the stabilizer right or left until both of these measurements
are equal. When both measurements are equal, the stabilizer
is square to the wing.
9
Continued On Next Page
☛
❑ When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the
wing, use a T-Pin to hold the front of the stabilizer firmly in
place and aligned.
❑ With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front of
the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned
properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.
☞ If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220
grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher
side of the stabilizer mounting sides, then reinstall the stabilizer
and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure
until you are satisfied with the alignment.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to draw a
line on each side of the bottom of the stabilizer where it meets
the fuselage sides.
STEP 3: MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
❑ Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage.
❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the
covering material from between the lines you drew on the
bottom of the stabilizer.
✦ WARNING✦
✦ When cutting through the covering to remove
it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the
covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could
weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.
❑ Mix and apply a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer and to the top of the
stabilizer mounting sides.
❑ Set the stabilizer back into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy
sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use T-Pins to hold the stabilizer in place, until the epoxy has fully cured.
10
Continued On Next Page
☛
STEP 4: ALIGNING AND MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER
❑ Remove the rudder from the vertical stabilizer and set it aside for now. Again, you can throw away the temporary plastic
tabs in the hinge slots.
❑ Test-fit the vertical stabilizer to the top of the horizontal
stabilizer. When aligned properly, the trailing edge of the
stabilizer should be centered with the back of the fuselage and
the leading edge of the stabilizer should be centered with the
fuselage, at the front of the stabilizer mounting area. The
trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer should be even with the
trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer, too.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in
place, using a couple of T-Pins.
❑ Using a pencil, draw an outline of the base of the vertical
stabilizer onto the top of the horizontal stabilizer.
❑ Remove the vertical stabilizer and use a modeling knife to
carefully cut away and remove the covering material from
inside the outline you drew. Cut away and remove the covering
material from the base of the vertical stabilizer, too.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ Removing the covering material will ensure
a strong glue joint.
❑ Carefully glue the vertical stabilizer into place, using a
generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess
epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the
vertical stabilizer firmly in place and aligned until the epoxy
sets up.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ While the epoxy is drying, use a builder's
triangle to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is perpendicular
to the horizontal stabilizer.
STEP 5: INSTALLING THE MOLDED PLASTIC TAIL FAIRING
❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the back of the
plastic tail fairing, as shown. This will make it easier to align
and install the tail fairing.
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Continued On Next Page
☛
❑ Slide the tail fairing into place and check the fit.
☞ To achieve a perfect fit, it may be necessary to trim the
front edges of the tail fairing that curve over the leading edge
of the horizontal stabilizer. The back of the tail fairing will
likely be too long, so you'll need to trim it flush with the back of
the horizontal and vertical stabilizers after you glue the tail
fairing into place.
❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, carefully glue the tail fairing into place, using a thin layer of Formula 560
Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the tail
fairing in place until the glue completely cures.
SECTION 7: HINGING THE CONTROL SURFACES
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (12) C/A Style Hinges
❑ (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire w/Tail Wheel
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑ Waxed Paper
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Dubro T-Pins
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS
✦ Important Information About the C/A Style Hinges Included with Your Decathlon EP ARF✦
✦
The Decathlon EP ARF uses C/A style hinges to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges are designed to be glued into
place, using thin C/A. Do not glue these hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use
of any adhesive other than thin C/A could result in failure of the hinges during flight.
The control surfaces are temporarily held in place for packing purposes, using thin plastic tabs in the hinge slots. These
plastic tabs are not the hinges. Remove and discard them before hinging the hinging the control surfaces.
❑ Push two T-Pins through the center of three C/A style
aileron hinges, as shown.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The T-Pins will keep the hinges centered
while you are hinging the aileron.
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❑ Working with one aileron for now, slide one hinge into
each hinge slot in the aileron, making sure that you push
each hinge in up to the T-Pins. Don't glue the hinges into
place yet though.
❑ Push the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure that the torque rod wire
is firmly seated within the precut slot in the aileron. The aileron should be pushed firmly up against the trailing edge, so that
there is a minimal hinge gap (no more than 1/32" wide), and the end of the aileron should be even with the wing tip.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ You may need to cut the slot in the aileron for the torque rod wire deeper so that the aileron can be
pushed forward enough to result in no more than a 1/32" wide hinge gap.
❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the aileron from the wing, but leave the hinges in the aileron.
❑ Cut out a 1-3/4 x 1" piece of waxed paper.
❑ Slide the waxed paper between the torque rod wire and the
trailing edge of the wing.
☞ The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque
rod wire to the trailing edge of the wing.
❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the end of the torque rod wire to roughen the surface, then mix a small quantity
of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the end of the torque rod wire and into the predrilled hole and the precut slot in
the leading edge of the aileron.
❑ Push the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing and align the aileron as done previously.
❑ Remove the T-pins from the hinges, and while holding the
aileron tight against the wing, pivot the aileron down about
45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of
each hinge. Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of
the hinges.
☞ Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line, using
C/A Debonder.
❑ Allow the C/A and epoxy to dry for about 15 minutes, then
pivot the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges.
PRO TIP After the C/A and epoxy have fully cured, gently grasp the aileron and wing and pull on the aileron like you
are trying to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A
to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.
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❑ Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron to the wing, making sure to check the integrity of
the hinges after the C/A and epoxy fully cure.
STEP 2: HINGING THE ELEVATOR
❑ Hinge the elevator, using the same techniques that you used
to hinge the ailerons. The elevator is hinged using four hinges.
When hinging the elevator into place, make sure that the tips
of the elevator are even with the tips of the stabilizer and that
there is no more than a 1/32" wide hinge gap..
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ After allowing the C/A to fully cure, gently
pull on the elevator to check the integrity of the hinges.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
❑ Test-fit the tail wheel wire into the predrilled hole in the
leading edge of the rudder. When properly aligned, the tail
wheel wire should rest within the precut groove and the front
edge of the tail wheel wire should be flush with the leading
edge of the rudder.
☞ It may be necessary to cut the slot deeper to achieve a
perfect fit. This is important so that the tail wheel wire does not
interfere with the proper hinging of the rudder.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ With the tail wheel wire in place, double-check that the tail wheel is lined up with the bottom of the
rudder. This will ensure that the tail wheel will track straight with the rudder.
❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, remove the tail wheel wire and use 220 grit sandpaper to roughen only the
gluing surfaces of the tail wheel wire, then glue the tail wheel wire into place, using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.
Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
STEP 4: HINGING THE RUDDER
❑ Hinge the rudder, using the same techniques that you used
to hinge the elevator. The rudder is hinged using two hinges.
When hinging the rudder, make sure that the top of the rudder
is even with the top of the stabilizer and that there is no more
than a 1/32" wide hinge gap.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ After allowing the C/A to fully cure, gently
pull on the rudder to check the integrity of the hinges.
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SECTION 8: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear Bracket
❑ (6) M2.5 Hex Nuts
❑ (2) Molded Plastic Wheel Pants
❑ (4) M2.5 Flat Washers
❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels
❑ (2) M3 x 10mm Wood Screws
❑ (2) M2.5 x 25mm Machine Screws
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Adjustable Wrench
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR BRACKET
❑ Align the predrilled holes in the landing gear bracket with
the predrilled holes in the bottom of the fuselage.
❑ Install the two M3 x 10mm wood screws to secure the
landing gear bracket into place.
☞ The front of the landing gear bracket is straight and the
back is angled. Make sure that the straight side is toward the
front of the fuselage.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE WHEELS AND WHEEL PANTS
❑ Slide one wheel onto one M2.5 x 25mm machine screw.
❑ Thread one M2.5 hex nut onto the machine screw and up
against the wheel, then thread a second M2.5 hex nut onto
the machine screw and carefully tighten the two hex nuts
against each other.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The wheel should be able to spin freely
with little to no side-to-side play.
❑ Slide one M2.5 flat washer onto the machine screw and up
against the hex nuts.
❑ Carefully slide the machine screw into the precut slot in the
side of one molded plastic wheel pant, making sure that the flat
washer is on the inside of the wheel pant.
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❑ Slide the machine screw through the predrilled hole in the
main gear bracket and secure the assembly into place, using
one M2.5 flat washer and one M2.5 hex nut. Tighten the outer
hex nut securely while holding the two inner hex nuts firmly in
place with needle nose pliers.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ Before tightening the hex nut, make sure
that the wheel pant is lined up straight.
❑ Double-check that the wheel spins freely, then repeat the previous procedures to install the second wheel and wheel
pant assembly onto the landing gear bracket.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ Make sure that the wheel pants are lined up with each other when viewed from the side.
SECTION 9: MOTOR AND COWLING INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
❑ (1) Molded Plastic Cowling
❑ (4) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Ruler
❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Pencil
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ Masking Tape
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE MOTOR
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ This step describes the procedures for installing the Wattage 370 motor with 3.67:1 gear box. The
motor/gear box assembly you decide to use may be different, but the installation procedures should be similar, unless
you're using a direct drive motor. If you use a direct drive motor, you will need to make motor mounting beams and
secure them to the firewall, making sure to brace them adequately for the weight and power output of your motor.
We include three M3 x 12mm wood screws to secure your motor assembly to the firewall. Double-check that these wood
screws are compatible with your motor assembly before installing it into the airplane. If they are not, you will need to
provide your own motor mounting screws.
❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully measure and draw a
vertical centerline on the firewall.
❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully measure and draw a
horizontal thrust line on the firewall, 2" up from the bottom of
the firewall.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ These lines will help you line up your
motor assembly in the correct location, so that the cowling
will line up properly when it's installed.
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❑ Place the motor assembly up against the firewall. To align
it properly, the gear box should be centered over the vertical
centerline you drew and the top of the gear box should be
just below the top of the fuselage (about 1/32").
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ If you're are not using the Wattage 370
power system, use the horizontal thrust line you drew to
position your motor at the proper height. When positioned
properly, the motor shaft should be lined up with the horizontal
thrust line. This will ensure that the cowling will line up properly.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to mark the locations of the three mounting holes onto the firewall.
❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill pilot holes
through the firewall at each of the three marks you drew.
❑ Drip several drops of thin C/A into the three pilot holes and
allow the C/A to fully cure.
☞ The C/A will harden the surrounding plywood, making the
pilot holes stronger.
❑ Secure the motor assembly to the firewall, using three M3 x 12mm wood screws.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE COWLING
❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the molded
air-intake holes in the front of the cowling.
❑ Slide the cowling into place and align it. When aligned
properly, the front of the cowling should be centered around,
and about 1/16" - 3/32" behind, the front of the gear box.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use pieces of masking
tape to hold the cowling securely in place.
❑ With the cowling held firmly in place and aligned, drill four
1/16" diameter pilot holes into the cowling and through the sides
of the fuselage. Position two holes on each side of the
cowling, 1/8" in front of the back edge of the cowling. The
lower holes should be 1/2" up from the bottom of the cowling
and the upper holes should be 1-3/4" up from the bottom of
the cowling.
❑ Secure the cowling to the fuselage, using four M2 x 8mm
wood screws, then install your spinner and propeller to finish
off the installation.
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SECTION 10: ELEVATOR AND RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (2) 12-3/4" Threaded Pushrod Wires w/Z-Bends
❑ (2) Nylon Clevises
❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Backplates
❑ (4) M2 x 8mm Machine Screws
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits
❑ # 0 & # 1 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Ruler
❑ Modeling Knife
❑ Pencil
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ Masking Tape
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVOS
❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator and rudder servos, making sure to install the collets
with the flanges toward the bottom of the servos.
❑ Install the elevator and rudder servos into the plywood
servo tray, making sure to drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for
the mounting screws.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ When installed, the servo output shafts
should be toward the front of the fuselage, as shown. Each
servo should be pushed up against the outer edge of the
servo tray, too.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD WIRE
❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.
❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn
just large enough to fit the diameter of the threaded pushrod wire.
❑ Install the Z-Bend in the end of the threaded pushrod
wire into the hole in the servo arm that you just enlarged.
❑ Plug the elevator servo (right-side servo) into your receiver, then plug your ESC into the receiver and your flight battery
into the ESC . Turn on your radio system and center the servo, using the elevator trim lever on your transmitter.
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❑ Slide the threaded end of the pushrod wire into the
preinstalled nylon pushrod tube in the fuselage, then attach
the servo horn to the servo, making sure that the servo horn is
centered and points toward the side of the fuselage.
❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, to hold
the servo horn securely to the servo.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROL HORN AND CLEVIS
❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom, left side
of the elevator. When aligned properly, the centerline of the
control horn should be 9/16" out from the side of the fuselage
(at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be
lined up over the hinge line. The front of the control horn should
be angled slightly toward the fuselage side, too, so that it lines
up better with the pushrod wire.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark the locations of
the two mounting holes, then drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes
through the elevator for the control horn mounting screws.
PRO TIP Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes
and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the mounting area stronger.
❑ Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 8mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.
❑ Carefully thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and
snap the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn.
☞ Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it
from turning or twisting when threading on the clevis.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ You may need to bend the pushrod wire
slightly after it exits the fuselage side, so that it lines up
perfectly with the control horn.
❑ Double-check that both the servo horn and the elevator are still centered. If the elevator is not centered, adjust the
clevis until it is. Move the elevator up and down several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind. It should
operate smoothly in both directions.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD, CONTROL HORN AND CLEVIS
☞ The rudder pushrod assembly is installed using the same techniques that you used to install the elevator
pushrod assembly.
❑ Cut away and remove all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn. Enlarge the hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the
servo horn, then install the Z-Bend in the end of the threaded pushrod wire into the hole.
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❑ Plug the rudder servo (left-side servo) into your receiver, then plug your ESC into the receiver and your flight battery into
the ESC . Turn on your radio system and center the servo, using the rudder trim lever on your transmitter.
❑ Slide the threaded end of the pushrod wire into the
preinstalled nylon pushrod tube in the fuselage, then attach
the servo horn to the servo, making sure that the servo horn is
centered and points toward the side of the fuselage.
❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.
❑ Install the second nylon control horn and backplate onto
the right side of the rudder, making sure that the bottom of the
control horn is even with, and parallel to, the bottom edge of
the rudder. The clevis attachment holes should be lined up
over the hinge line, too.
❑ Carefully thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and
snap the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn.
☞ Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it
from turning or twisting when threading on the clevis.
❑ Double-check that both the servo horn and the rudder are still centered. If the rudder is not centered, adjust the
clevis until it is. Move the rudder right and left several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind. It should
operate smoothly in both directions.
SECTION 11: AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (2) 2" Threaded Pushrod Wires w/Z-Bends
❑ (2) Nylon Clevises
❑ (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
❑ (1) Molded Plastic Servo Tray
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Ruler
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ Pencil
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO
❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your aileron servo, making sure to install the collets with the
flanges toward the bottom of the servo.
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❑ Install the aileron servo into the molded plastic servo tray,
making sure to make small pilot holes for the mounting screws,
using the tip of your modeling knife.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The servo should be mounted on top of
the molded plastic servo tray, as shown.
❑ Test-fit the aileron servo tray assembly onto the wing. When
aligned properly, the servo tray assembly should be centered
over the precut aileron servo hole in the bottom of the wing and
the servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge of
the wing, as shown.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ You will need to cut a small notch in the
side of the servo tray, so that the aileron servo wire can
exit without interfering with the installation of the servo
tray assembly.
❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, use a pencil to carefully outline the base of the servo tray onto the wing.
❑ Remove the servo tray assembly and use a modeling knife to cut away and remove the covering material from within
the outline you drew.
❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the bottom of the servo tray assembly to roughen the
smooth plastic.
☞ Roughening the smooth plastic will allow the epoxy to stick better to the plastic.
❑ Glue the servo tray assembly to the wing, using a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy, using a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the servo tray assembly in position until the epoxy sets up.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHRODS
❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove two arms from a "4-point" servo horn.
❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, enlarge the hole in each remaining servo arm that is 5/16" out from the center of the
servo arm just large enough to fit the diameter of the threaded pushrod wires.
❑ Install the Z-Bend in the end of each threaded pushrod
wire into the hole in the servo arms that you just enlarged.
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❑ Plug the aileron servo into your receiver, then plug your ESC into the receiver and your flight battery into the ESC . Turn
on your radio system and center the servo, using the aileron trim lever on your transmitter.
❑ Attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure that the
servo horn is centered.
❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, to hold
the servo horn securely to the servo.
❑ Use two pieces of masking tape, taped between the ailerons and the wing, to hold the ailerons centered.
❑ Carefully thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto each threaded aileron torque rod wire. The adjustable control
horns should both face the aileron servo and they both should be flush with the top of the torque rod wires.
❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto each pushrod wire and snap
the clevises into the adjustable control horns.
☞ Hold the pushrod wires with a pair of pliers to prevent them
from turning while installing the clevises.
❑ Remove the masking tape from the ailerons and double-check that the servo arm and the ailerons are still centered. If
the ailerons are not centered, adjust the clevises until they are. Move the ailerons up and down several times to ensure
that the linkage assembly does not bind.
SECTION 12: WINDSHIELD AND SIDE WINDOWS INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (2) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws
❑ (1) Molded Windshield and Side Windows Set
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue
❑ Ruler
❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Pencil
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ Masking Tape
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE WINDSHIELD
❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the windshield smooth.
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❑ Place the windshield onto the fuselage and align it. When
aligned properly, the top of the windshield should be flush with
the top of the fuselage and the base of the windshield should
fit firmly around the curved shape of the fuselage. The sides of
the windshield should be parallel to, and overlap about 1/8",
the two vertical window pillars.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ You may need to trim the base of the
windshield about 1/8" shorter to achieve a perfect fit.
❑ When satisfied with the fit, hold the windshield in place and aligned, using pieces of masking tape.
❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, carefully drill two
pilot holes into the bottom corners of the windshield and through
the fuselage sides. Position each hole approximately 1/8" in
front of the back edge of the windshield and 1/8" up from the
bottom edge of the windshield.
❑ Remove the windshield and carefully drip several drops of thin C/A into the two pilot holes.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ Allow the C/A to fully cure before installing the windshield. The C/A will harden the surrounding wood,
making the mounting area and the pilot holes stronger.
❑ After the C/A has fully cured, secure the windshield to the fuselage, using two M2 x 8mm wood screws.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE SIDE WINDOWS
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The front and rear side windows are shaped differently to fit the front and rear window cutouts in the
fuselage sides. Make sure that you install them in the correct locations. They will fit properly only one way.
PRO TIP Before gluing the side windows into place in the next procedure, you may want to paint the exposed edges
of the window cutouts in the fuselage sides, using black paint. This will clean up the appearance of the windows after
they're glued into place.
❑ Carefully test-fit and glue the side windows into place from
inside the fuselage, using a thin layer of Formula 560 Canopy
Glue. Hold the windows in place, using pieces of masking
tape, until the glue dries completely.
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SECTION 13: FINAL ASSEMBLY
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (2) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
❑ (1) Battery Hatch Cover
❑ (1) Double-Sided Foam Tape
❑ (1) Plywood ESC/Receiver Mounting Plate
®
❑ (1) Decal Set
❑ (1) Plywood Flight Battery Mounting Plate w/Velcro Strap
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A
❑ 5/64" Drill Bit
❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron -Optional
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Solder - Optional
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes) - Optional
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE FLIGHT BATTERY AND ESC/RECEIVER MOUNTS
❑ Test-fit the plywood ESC/receiver mounting plate onto the
two balsa longerons, through the battery hatch. Notice how
the precut notches in the mounting plate fit around the balsa
vertical side braces.
❑ Test-fit the plywood flight battery mounting plate onto the
two balsa longerons, through the battery hatch. The mounting
plate should be pushed forward against the forward bulkhead
and the Velcro ® strap should be accessible through the
battery hatch.
❑ When satisfied with the fit, glue the two mounting plates into position, using a generous amount of thick C/A.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL
❑ Carefully solder the positive and negative motor wires to the motor wires on your ESC, being careful that the polarity is
correct. Make sure to use heat-shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.
☞ If you're using the Wattage IC-15A ESC and the Wattage 370 power system, simply plug the compatible bullet
connectors together, making sure that the polarity is correct. No soldering is required.
❑ Mount your ESC to the top of the plywood flight battery
mount, using a piece of double-sided foam tape.
❑ If your ESC features a micro switch, mount it in a convenient place on the side of the fuselage, using two small wood
screws (not included). We mounted our micro switch on the lower, left side of the fuselage.
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STEP 3: INSTALLING THE RECEIVER
❑ Plug the elevator, rudder and ESC leads into their proper slots in your receiver.
☞ If you want, you can plug a short aileron extension lead into the receiver to make it easier to plug in the aileron servo
when installing the wing.
❑ Mount your receiver to the top of the plywood ESC/receiver
mounting plate, using a piece of double-sided foam tape.
❑ To run the antenna, drill a small hole through the bottom of
the fuselage, behind the back of the battery hatch, then feed
the antenna out through the hole and tape the antenna to the
back of the fuselage, using a small piece of clear tape.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLIGHT BATTERY
❑ Set your flight battery into position on the plywood flight
battery mounting plate, then secure it into place, using the
Velcro® strap assembly.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ When you balance the airplane later, you
may need to move the flight battery forward or aft. The
location shown is only a general location and may differ
depending on equipment used.
❑ Install the battery hatch cover to the bottom of the fuselage,
using two M2 x 10mm flange-head wood screws.
☞ The pilot holes for the screws have been predrilled for you.
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ We strongly suggest removing the covering
material from over the precut lightening holes in the battery
hatch cover. These holes will allow incoming air from the
cowling to escape. This will enhance the cooling of your
motor and flight battery.
STEP 5: APPLYING THE DECALS
❑ Using a clean cloth, wipe the airframe down completely to remove any dust, debris and oil.
☞ We suggest using rubbing alcohol to wipe the airframe down in the areas where the decals will be applied.
❑ Cut out each of the decals and carefully apply them to the airframe, using the photos on page # 28 for reference.
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SECTION 14: BALANCING THE DECATHLON EP ARF
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Ruler
❑ Masking Tape
✦ IMPORTANT✦ It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose
control and crash!
Center of Gravity Location:
1-5/8" - 1-3/4" back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.
✦ WARNING✦ This is the recommended C/G range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C/G in the middle of
the range (1-11/16"), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane.
It is not recommended that the C/G be located any farther back than 1-3/4".
☞ Balance the Decathlon EP ARF with the flight battery installed.
❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage. Apply two short pieces of masking tape onto the bottom of the wing, 1-11/16" back
from the leading edge, measured at the fuselage sides.
❑ With the airplane rightside up, place your fingers on the masking tape, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the
airplane falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery back far enough to bring the airplane into
balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery forward far enough
to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift
it up with your fingers at the C/G location. The tail should NOT drop.
☞ Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved fore or
aft within the C/G range to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more
responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.
DO NOT FLY THE AIRPLANE BEYOND THE RECOMMENDED BALANCE RANGE OR AN
UNCONTROLLABLE CRASH COULD RESULT!
SECTION 15: CONTROL THROWS
We recommend setting up the Decathlon EP ARF using the control throws listed below. These control throws are
suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.
TEST-FLYING
Ailerons:
5/16" Up
5/16" Down
Elevator:
1/4" Up
1/4" Down
Rudder:
3/8" Right
3/8" Left
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.
✦ VERY IMPORTANT✦
✦ After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and control throws, we strongly suggest doublechecking that the clevises are snapped completely closed.
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Continued On Next Page
☛
Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the
sport-flying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do
aerobatics with ease.
SPORT-FLYING
Ailerons:
9/16" Up
9/16" Down
Elevator:
1/2" Up
1/2" Down
Rudder:
5/8" Right
5/8" Left
✦ IMPORTANT✦
✦ The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.
✦ VERY IMPORTANT✦
✦ We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended sport-flying
settings unless you are a proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and
result in a possible crash if you are not careful.
SECTION 16: PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY
●
Check the operation of the throttle. To do this, do the following:
A) Plug the flight battery into the ESC and turn on the radio system.
✦ WARNING✦ Do not turn the receiver on unless the transmitter is turned on first. Always turn the transmitter on first.
Never allow hands or clothing to get in the way of the propeller when the radio is turned on. Sudden unwanted radio
signals, or turning the radio on with the throttle stick set at full throttle, can turn the motor on unintentionally. Always
make sure that the throttle control stick is set to idle before turning on the transmitter.
B) When the throttle control stick is at the idle position, the motor should be off. Moving the stick forward should
turn on the motor. Gradually moving the stick to the full forward position should result in the motor running at full power.
☞ Some ESCs will give you more proportional control than others. Your ESC may also have a manual control adjustment
screw that must be adjusted prior to using the ESC. (Refer to your ESC's operating guide for further information.)
●
Check the condition of the transmitter batteries. They should be fully charged.
●
Check every screw, bolt, nut and glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded.
●
Double-check that you've installed and tightened the servo horn retaining screws on the servos.
●
Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the flight battery installed.
●
Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.
●
If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for
your first few flights.
●
Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.
●
Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage. The only exception
to this is if the excess antenna is properly wound around an antenna bobbin.
●
Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead
to motor and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce motor efficiency and power.
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CHECKING THE WING FOR WARPS
The Decathlon EP ARF's wing is built extremely light. This is one reason that the airplane flies so well using a number of
different power systems. Because the wing is built so light, though, it is susceptible to warping when the covering is applied
and shrunk tightly around its surface. The factory checks every wing for warps before they put them in the box, so it's
unusual to receive a wing that's warped, but it's still a good idea to double-check yours as warps can be introduced during
the shipping process.
Follow the procedures below to check the wing for warps and to remove any warps that might be present. We don't suggest
flying the airplane if the wing is warped because this condition will introduce bad flight characteristics in such a
small airplane.
❑ Place one wing panel on a flat work table bottom-side down. Allow the aileron torque rod to hang over the end of the
table. Without pushing down on the wing, check to see if there is a gap between the work table and any of the four corners
of the wing panel. If there is a gap under one or more corners, this means the wing has a warp in it.
❑ To remove the warp, secure the end of the wing opposite the warp to your work table using some soft weights, or better
yet, have someone else hold the end of the wing firmly.
❑ Using a heat gun or heat iron (a heat gun works best), heat the covering material on the top and bottom of the wing
panel. When the covering starts to wrinkle, gently twist the end of the wing panel in the opposite direction of the warp, while
holding the other end of the wing panel solidly, and reshrink the covering tight to hold the wing panel in its new position.
❑ Recheck the wing panel for warps. When done properly the entire surface of the bottom of the wing panel should be flat
against your work table.
❑ Repeat the previous procedures to check the second wing panel for warps.
DECAL POSITION REFERENCE PHOTOS
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1)
Kit: Wattage Decathlon EP ARF # 128389
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