Vineyards and wines from Alsace - Vins d`Alsace, CIVA, grands crus

Vineyards and
wines from Alsace
Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins d’Alsace – 12 avenue de la Foire aux Vins
BP 11217 - 68012 Colmar Cedex – France –
+ (33) 03.89.20.16.20 - www.vinsalsace.com – [email protected]
History
P. 2-3
The Alsace wine region, a history of success
Geography
P. 4
Alsace, an extraordinary garden
Tourismus
P. 5-6
The Alsace Wine Route
Wines
P. 7-8
Portrait of the 7 Alsace varieties
P. 9
Three Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées
P. 10
AOC Alsace
P. 11-12
Crémant d'Alsace : a recognized tradition
P. 13-15
Alsace Grand Cru Wines
P. 16-17
The terms
"Vendanges tardives" and "Sélection de grains nobles"
Table
P. 18-21
Alsace wines with food
Market
P. 22-27
Alsace wines in a few key figures
1
History
The Alsace wine region, a history of success
Although wine may not have been invented in Alsace, there is no doubt that it has been
enjoyed here ever since the earliest of days.
The first traces of the
vine
Though only distantly related to present-day varieties, the grapevine existed
in the geographical region that was to become the Rhine valley long before
the appearance of man. Fossilized leaves of Vitis found in the region of
Constance provide formal proof of this.
Later periods of glacial activity destroyed many species of vegetation, but it
seems that lambrusques, or wild vines, still commonly found in forests along
the Rhine even a century ago, are descended from isolated patches of Vitis
vines that survived the climatic rigours of the time. The fruit of the vine was
appreciated by the Prehistoric population, as can be seen from the heaps of
grape pips discovered during the excavation of lake settlements.
However, although the fruit of the vine has been used in the region since
time immemorial, the evolution from simply gathering the wild grapes to the
actual cultivation of the vine only took place after the Roman conquest. From
the earliest days of the present era, vestiges indicate the growing
importance of viticulture : heaps of grape pips, fragments of wooden casks,
then gradually vine motifs beginning to be used to decorate pottery or in basrelief carvings. As early as 2nd century AD, records mention the transport of
wine along the Moselle and Rhine rivers, and prove how soon the commerce
of wine began.
The vineyards resist
invasion
Germanic invasion in the 5th century brought viticulture into temporary
decline, but surviving documents show how quickly the vineyards regained
even greater importance under the rule of the Merovingians and
Carolingians, thanks to the foundation of numerous dioceses, abbeys and
convents at that time.
The golden age (the
late Middle Ages and
the Renaissance)
In his survey of the history of viticulture in Alsace, Canon Barth reveals that
documents dating from before 900AD mention more than 160 winegrowing
localities. The great importance of the Rhine vineyards can be judged from
one of the articles in the Treaty of Verdun in 843AD, which divided up the
Empire that had been created by Charlemagne. This expansion continued
without interruption until it reached its zenith during the 16th century.
The numerous houses in the Renaissance style that can still be admired
throughout the region bear witness to the prosperity of that period, when
large quantities of Alsace wines were exported throughout Europe.
At that same time, many different regulations came into force concerning the
grape varieties (amongst which mention is already made of Traminer,
Muscat, Riesling and others), their cultivation and their vinification, as well as
extremely lucrative taxation to the benefit of the municipalities, the
monasteries and the nobility.
2
Calamities (various
wars and phylloxera)
The Thirty Years'War, a period of devastation by rampaging armies, pillage,
famine and pestilence, had devastating consequences not only for viticulture
but for all the other economic activities of the region. With the return of
peace, the cultivation of the vine gradually began to regain its former
importance, but the expansion of the vineyards was mainly due to the
planting of inferior vine varieties, in the direction of the plain, to the detriment
of the hillsides.
A royal Edict of 1731 attempted to remedy this situation, but without much
success. This tendency worsened after the Revolution, and from 23,000
hectares in 1808, the total vineyard area had reached 30 000 by 1828.
A period of overproduction ensued, wich was often fatal for the vineyards on
the hillsides. This was aggravated by the total absence of exports and a fall
in domestic consumption of wine in favour of beer. Furthermore, diseases
and phylloxera, and an uncomfortable political situation between 1870 and
1918, added to the difficulties.
From 1902, the vineyard area shrank gradually, until it reached 9,500
hectares in 1948, of which 7,500 hectares were Appellation Alsace.
Renewal after the First
World War
After the liberation in 1918, two economic tendencies strongly opposed each
other. On the one hand were those who advocated the production of quality
wines from traditional, noble grapes, whilst others were convinced that the
only solution was to produce large quantities of cheap wines from hybrid
and direct-production grapes. The choice of quality over quantity prevailed.
As most of the land subsequently taken out of vine production was on the
plain, so the best vineyards on the hillsides of the traditional winegrowing
localities were left intact.
The present day :
consecration of
the AOC
The evolution of the Alsace region to the production of quality wines was
consecrated in 1962 when it was awarded AOC Alsace status by the INAO.
Other appellations soon followed that of AOC Alsace : AOC Alsace Grand
Cru in 1975 and AOC Crémant d'Alsace in 1976. The most representative of
the professional associations (the association of winegrowers (AVA), the
association of producer-merchants (GPNVA), the federation of winegrowing
co-operatives (FCVA) and the union of independent winegrowers
(SYNVIRA), are all united to form the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins
d'Alsace (CIVA), in order to ensure the continued development of the
winegrowing region of Alsace and the ever-growing reputation
of the wines of Alsace.
3
Geography
Alsace, an extraordinary garden
Lining the eastern flank of the foothills of the Vosges, the vineyards of Alsace enjoy
maximum sunshine all day long. Facing mainly south or south-east, they benefit from the
autumnal "Indian summer" which ensures that grapes ripen slowly to full maturity.
A privileged climate
A mosaic of
exceptional soils
The Alsace Wine
Route : 170 joyful
kilometres
Protected from oceanic influences by the natural barrier of the Vosges,
the Alsace vineyards have practically the lowest rainfall in France (450 to
500 mm of precipitation per year).
Hot summers, followed by sunny autumns and quite severe winters are
characteristics of a semi-continental climate.
This privileged climate favourises the slow, extended ripening of the
grapes, and gives wines with elegant aromas of great finesse.
The diversity of vineyard soils in Alsace has no equivalent anywhere in
France. Soils of clay, limestone, marl, granite, gneiss, schist, and even of
volcanic origin are intermingled for one easy-to-understand reason :
about 50 million years ago both the Vosges and the Black forest (in
Germany) were a single massif, and when it collapsed the Rhine plain
was formed.
As the Alsace vineyards are situated along the fault line between the
remaining massif of the Vosges and the plain, it is logical that their soil is
a mosaic of the collapsed ancient upper layers.
For the same reason, all 51 geographic locations that have been granted
the status of Alsace Grand Cru vary in size, some being extremely small,
as each one possesses its own homogenous geological characteristics.
Without a doubt, the most pragmatic and enjoyable way to assimilate the
technical details given above is to follow the Wine Route which, together
with the city of Strasbourg, is the foremost tourist attraction of Alsace.
The superb sights to be seen and the magical atmosphere that prevails
all along the way, give an added dimension to the understanding of the
wines of Alsace and the people who produce them.
4
Tourism
The Alsace Wine Route
The Alsace Wine Route runs along the foothills of the Vosges, up hill
and down dale, for more than 170 km.
At first sight, this Route is simply as pretty as a picture postcard.
Serried ranks of vines, historic walled villages, ancient half-timbered
houses, romanesque and gothic churches, Renaissance wells, the
proud ruins of Medieval castles, attractive, traditional inns and cool,
inviting wine cellars, all combine to make a charming and
unforgettable itinerary.
However, its real secrets are revealed only to those inquisitive visitors
who take the time to go off the beaten track. Between the two
gateways at Thann and at Marlenheim, it takes time to discover the
soul of the Wine Route, to meet the winegrowers, to taste their wines,
to stroll through Medieval villages until, far from the crowds, high
above, amidst the vines that line the vineyard trails, the visitor can
admire the views that are reserved only for the "happy wanderer".
At every stop, the culinary genius of Alsace becomes more apparent,
and makes it easy to understand why, with the complicity of its wines,
this is one of the most gourmet regions of France. Every one of its 170
kilometres gives the visitor an opportunity to enter into the spirit of this
wonderful region, where life is considered as a form of art.
The Wine Route winds its way along 170 kilometres through the main
vineyard area, but also includes an isolated sector around
Wissembourg in the extreme north of Alsace.
April in Ammerschwihr, 1st May in Molsheim, Ascension Day in
Guebwiller, July in Barr or in Ribeauvillé, the week of the 15th August
in Colmar, the harvest wine festivals in October... Everywhere are
festivals of wine, of winegrowing and wine fairs, which all keep
traditions alive and celebrate the wines of Alsace.
DISCOVER THE
HIDDEN ALSACE
The vineyard trails
Alsace off the beaten track : for a brief moment, leave the charm of
the Wine Route and explore one of the 46 vineyard trails that lead into
the heart of the vineyards and enable the visitor to discover the
hidden, vibrant face of Alsace.
Lined with numerous informative signposts, each vineyard trail
describes the work of the winegrower, the art of making Alsace wine,
and the differences between each grape variety.
During a walk lasting two hours at the very most, each vineyard trail
shows the diversity, colours and flavours of Alsace, to enable the
visitor to understand the personality of its winegrowers - which is
confirmed by tasting their wines !
5
46 wine trails wind their way through the heart of the vineyards and
picturesque villages:
Bas-Rhin : Cleebourg, Marlenheim, Wangen, Westhoffen, Traenheim,
Dahlenheim, Bergbieten, Wolxheim, Ergersheim, Molsheim, Mutzig,
Dorlisheim, Rosheim, Obernai, Bernardswiller, Heiligenstein, Barr,
Mittelbergheim, Epfig, Blienschwiller, Dambach-la-Ville, Scherwiller,
Châtenois.
Haut-Rhin : Bergheim, Hunawihr, Zellenberg, Riquewihr, Beblenheim,
Mittelwihr, Bennwihr, Sigolsheim, Kientzheim, Kaysersberg,
Ammerschwihr, Katzenthal, Turckheim, Eguisheim, Hattstatt,
Gueberschwihr, Pfaffenheim, Rouffach, Westhalten, Soultzmatt,
Orschwihr, Soultz, and the “Perles du vignoble” trail.
THE DISCOVERY OF
AN ANCIENT ART
The Museum of the
Vineyard and Wines of
Alsace
At the heart of the vineyard area, and only a few kilometres from
Colmar, the famous Château de Kientzheim, seat of the Confrérie St.
Etienne and former home of Baron Lazare de Schwendi, houses the
Museum of the Vineyard and Wines of Alsace.
From a fascinating re-creation of a "Winegrower's Cellar" down the
centuries, the magnificent surroundings serve to highlight the beauty
of the various exhibits : barrels, casks and vats from the earliest of
times to the present day, next to harvest carts and an antique vertical
wine press.
This Museum does not just bear witness to the history of the
vineyards and wines of Alsace, it is a vibrant tribute to the generations
of winegrowers who have forged the reputation and unique
personality of the wines of Alsace.
The Maison des Vins
d'Alsace, Colmar
As the information centre for the vineyards and wines of Alsace, the
reception area of the Maison des Vins d'Alsace proposes an interactive map of the vineyard region, activities concerning wine/food
matches, inter-active games - dioramas etc...
Regular tasting sessions are held here either as an introduction to the
wines of Alsace or in greater detail, both for the public and for
professionals.
Adress : 12 avenue de la Foire aux Vins - Colmar (next to the
exhibition centre, just at the northern exit from Colmar).
www.vinsalsace.com – [email protected]
DISCOVER ALSACE
AT ITS MOST
VIBRANT
The vintage in Alsace
In Alsace, the wine harvest usually takes place from late September to
late October, the dates varying each year according to the evolution of
the ripeness of the grapes. At this time of year, due to the pressure of
harvest work, it is not always possible to visit some wine cellars, and
so it is recommended to make appointments in advance.
During the vintage, when nature yields its most noble harvest, the
autumn sunlight bathes the region in its warm glow, enhancing both
the sumptuous colours of the season and the joyful exuberance of the
grape-pickers.
6
The wines
Portrait of the 7 Alsace varieties
Contrary to other French wine regions, the wines of Alsace are not named after the villages or
vineyards from which they come, but after the grape variety from which each is made. Alsace
wines are made from seven grape varieties : Sylvaner, Pinot blanc, Riesling, Muscat d'Alsace,
Pinot gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot noir. All must, by law, be bottled in the region of
production, in the traditional, slender Alsace "flûte" bottle.
Sylvaner
Agreeably refreshing, lightly floral and discreetly fruity, it is often fresh
and lively.
Pinot blanc
Well-rounded yet delicate, it combines freshness and softness to
represent the happy medium in the range of Alsace wines. The
Auxerrois variety, from the same family, is more often than not sold
under the same name.
Riesling
Regarded as one of the finest white wine varieties of the world,
Riesling is widely considered as achieving its greatest success in
Alsace.
Vivacious, refined and crystal clear, its bouquet is delicately fruity, with
floral or sometimes mineral hints. It combines finesse, elegance and
character.
At first lively on the palate, it later reveals its fine balance and long
aftertaste.
It is a gastronomic wine par excellence.
Muscat d'Alsace
This unique wine is dry (contrary to Muscats from southern regions),
intensely grapey and aromatic, revealing the full flavour of the fruit.
7
Pinot gris
Powerful and opulent, with a deep colour, it is rich and well-structured,
with a long finish. Its bouquet is very complex, fruity and sometimes
slightly smoky. Thanks to its character, it can often advantageously
replace a red wine (with white meat, game...).
Gewurztraminer
Probably the best-known of all Alsace wines, and noted for its
exceptionally aromatic character, the Gewurztraminer is very
expressive. It has a deep colour and complex aroma of fruit (quince,
grapefruit, lychee), flowers (acacia, rose) and spices (cinnamon,
clove, pepper).
Rich, round and well-structured, sometimes slightly sweet, it is a
charming wine that can often age well.
Pinot noir
The only red grape variety in Alsace, it produces red or rosé wines,
wich are characteristically fruity with hints of cherry. When vinified as
a red wine, it can be aged in oak casks, which reinforces its structure
and complexity.
Klevener
Mention must also be made of a much more rare grape variety, the
Klevener de Heiligenstein. Produced from the Savagnin Rose variety
(a non-aromatic form of the ancient Traminer), the Klevener was first
planted at Heiligenstein (near Barr) in the early XVIIIth century. Now
grown only in Heiligenstein and its immediate vicinity, it is a wine that
is greatly appreciated. Round and well-balanced, its less-aromatic
character makes it ideal to accompany a meal.
8
The wines
Three Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées
All Alsace wines enjoy one of 3 Appellations d'Origine Contrôlées (AOC) :
) Alsace,
Defined in 1962, this currently represents 74% of total production.
) Alsace Grand Cru (always followed by the name of one of the 51 vineyards that have been
delimited within this Appellation).
Defined in 1975, these 51 delimited named vineyards represent 4% of total production.
) Crémant d'Alsace (sparkling wine made by the traditional method).
Defined in 1976, this represents 22% of total production.
The special Alsace
bottle
All Alsace wines (except Crémant d’Alsace) are always sold in their
typical “flute” bottle and, by law since 1972, must be bottled in the region
of production.
ƒ
Decree of 20 May 1955 relating to the « Rhine Wine » type bottle.
ƒ
Decree of 13 May 1959 concerning the use of the « Rhine Wine » type bottle.
ƒ
Decree of 30 June 1971 concerning AOC Alsace or « Alsace » wines, article D.
ƒ
Law of 5 July 1972 relating to the sale of AOC Alsace or « Alsace » wines.
9
The wines
AOC Alsace
AOC ALSACE
The status of AOC Alsace was awarded following long discussions on
a national level. French AOCs were set up by means of a preliminary
decree in 1935. However, negotiations with the INAO, the certifying
body, were interrupted due to the annexation of Alsace by Germany
during the Second World War.
At the end of the war in 1945, a regulation drafted by the Alsace
Winegrowers Association defined the Alsace AOCs. This ruling
served as a basis for the INAO definition of AOC in our region, but it
was only in 1962, 17 years later, that the official decree was finally
published and Alsace wines could enter the great family of French
AOC wines.
If the name of a grape variety appears on the label of an AOC Alsace
wine, it is made from 100 % of that grape variety. If no grape variety is
named, then the wine is made from a blend of several white wine
varieties, and so it is either called "Edelzwicker" or by a brand name.
In 2008, the maximum authorised annual yield per hectare for white
Appellation Alsace Contrôlée wines was 80 hectolitres per hectare
without PLC (= Plafond Limite de Classement, a reserve calculated
annually by the INAO), and 75 hectolitres per hectare without PLC for
Pinot Noir wines (60 hectolitres per hectare for “red” Pinot Noir wines).
The annual production limit is supplemented by an individual limit for
each white wine grape variety, which replaces the former limit
applying to the combined total of all grape varieties that was generally
used in Alsace.
The minimum ripeness levels currently in force, expressed in degrees
of potential alcohol, are 9,5° for Sylvaner, Muscat and Edelzwicker,
10° for Riesling, Pinot blanc and Pinot Noir, and 11° for Pinot Gris,
Gewurztraminer and Klevener de Heiligenstein.
Before going on sale, all AOC Alsace wines must be submitted to a
approval tasting panel under the control of INAO.
Alsace wines (except Crémant d’Alsace) are always sold in their
typical “flute” bottle and, by law since 1972, must be bottled in the
region of production.
AOC Alsace wines represent 74% of the total production, of which
92% are white wines.
•Regulation No. 45-2675 of 2 November 1945 concerning the definition of Alsace
Appellations d’Origine, modified by law No. 70-8 of 2 January 1970, decree No. 71-554
of 30 June 1971 and the decree of 4 September 1974.
•Decree of 4 February 1997 concerning the denomination Klevener de Heiligenstein.
10
The wines
Crémant d'Alsace : a recognized tradition
The unique character and impeccable quality of Crémant d'Alsace has made it a considerable
success, not just in Alsace itself but throughout France and in neighbouring countries. Today,
Crémant d'Alsace is the market leader in at-home sales of AOC sparkling wines in France.
One century of history,
and AOC status since
1976.
At the end of the last century, several companies in Alsace, established
both in the vineyard area and in the cities of Strasbourg and Mulhouse,
produced sparkling wines using the Champagne method. This tradition,
somewhat in decline during the first half of the 20th century, was
maintained until AOC Crémant d'Alsace status was awared by the
decree of 24th August 1976. This decree gives Alsace wine producers the
new framework necessary for the production of quality sparkling wines, with
requirements that are comparable to those imposed on Champagne
producers themselves.
Today, over 500 producers belong to the Syndicat des Producteurs de
Crémant d'Alsace (Crémant d'Alsace Producers' Union).
A harmonious blend
of grape
Crémant d'Alsace owes its elegance and originality to the unique
character of the grape varieties of Alsace, allied to the natural
advantages enjoyed by its vineyards : a dry and sunny climate, slopes
that face the rising sun, and special geological characteristics.
Grapes for the production of Crémant d'Alsace are generally picked
first, at the very start of the harvest, when they offer for vinification their
optimum balance harmony.
Crémant d'Alsace wines are made from the following varieties :
y Most Blanc de Blanc Crémants come from the Pinot blanc, which
makes them soft and delicate.
y Riesling gives the Crémants a more lively fruit character, full of
elegance and nobility.
y Pinot gris makes Crémants rich and round, while Chardonnay brings
style and lightness.
y Pinot noir is the only variety to produce Crémant d'Alsace rosé or,
more rarely, a Blanc de Noir full of charm and finesse.
Production
requirements (decree
of 24/08/1976 modified
by the decree of
20/02/2002)
y Wines destined for Crémant d'Alsace production can only be made
from white or red grapes grown within the region of production of
Alsace wines.
y The starting date for the AOC Crémant d'Alsace harvest is fixed by
the Regional Experts Comittee for Alsace Wines, and is generally a few
days before the harvest date for AOC Alsace still wines.
y Before the harvest, winegrowers are obliged to declare to their town
hall which vineyards are intended for the production of Crémant
d'Alsace.
y Each batch of grapes must be sufficiently ripe, with a minimum natural
sugar content of 145 grams of sugar per litre, that is the equivalent of
8.5° potential alcohol.
11
y The maximum authorized annual yield for AOC Crémant d'alsace in
2008 was 80hl/ha without PLC ((= Plafond Limite de Classement, a
reserve calculated annually by the INAO).
y 150 kg of grapes must be pressed to obtain 100 litres of juice
destined for the production of Crémant d'Alsace, with compulsorily
separation of the "rebêche", which must be at least 2% of the original
volume entitled to the appellation.
y Grapes must be harvested manually and transported in containers
holding less than 100 kgs, and put whole into the press.
y The equipment used to receive and crush the grapes must be
specially inspected and approved by the INAO.
y Archimedes screws and chains must be removed from presses.
y A register of pressing must be kept.
y Crémant d'Alsace must undergo a secondary fermentation in bottle,
which must take place exclusively in Alsace. The wine cannot be
bottled before 1st January following the harvest. The length of bottle
ageing on the lees cannot be less than 9 months.
y Before sale, all wines destined for AOC Crémant d'Alsace are subject
to the analysis and tasting tests required by law for this appellation.
Evolution of
production and sales
From less than 1 million bottles in 1979, the annual production of
Crémant d'Alsace has grown spectacularly since 1980, to meet
increasing demand not only in France but also on export markets.
Actually, production of Crémant d'Alsace represented 33 million bottles
, which is 22 % of all Alsace wines.
The surge in demand for Crémant d'Alsace explains its increasingly
important share of Alsace wine production. Sales have multiplied by 14
in 26 years, up from 2.2 million bottles in 1982 to 30 million bottles
today.
Belgium
Germany
Denmark
USA
Sweden
Switzerland
Nederland
Italia
ƒ
ƒ
2,13 million
1,66 million
370 000
296 000
182 000
123 000
103 000
67 000
bottles
bottles
bottles
bottles
bottles
bottles
bottles
bottles
Decree of 26 August 1976
Decree of 20 February 2002
12
The wines
Alsace Grand Cru Wines
While Alsace wines are traditionally known by their familiar grape names : Sylvaner, Pinot
Blanc, Riesling, Muscat d'Alsace, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir, the Appellation
Alsace Grand Cru gives an added dimension, "terroir", the unique influence of the vineyard
itself on the wine.
Fifty-one sites have been delimited according to strict criteria of geology and micro-climate, to
make up the mosaic of Alsace Grand cru vineyards.
These exceptional vineyards vary in size from 3 to 80 hectares, each having its own specific
character and personality, according to its geology, aspect and slope. With an annual average
of more than 45 000 hl, Alsace Grand Cru wines represent only 4 % of total Alsace wine
production.
Appreciating Alsace
Grand Cru wines
In order to taste Alsace Grand Cru wines under optimum conditions, it
is best to follow a few simple hints on storage and serving :
Although Alsace Grand Cru wines are agreeable to enjoy when they
are young, they will gain from being kept for much longer (5 to 10
years, or even more in the finest vintages), preferably in a dark, well
ventilated cellar with a constant temperature (10°-15°C / 50°-60°F).
The bottles should be stored on their sides so that the wine is in
permanent contact with the cork.
Alsace Grand Cru wines should be served cold but not chilled (at
about 8°C / 45°F), in a slender, long-stemmed clear crystal glass.
These are gastronomic wines par excellence, and an Alsace Grand
Cru wine can accompany every course on the menu.
Muscat d'Alsace is an ideal apéritif, Riesling Grand Cru is the perfect
partner for all seafood, fish and shellfish, Pinot Gris is perfect with
white meats, game and foie gras, while Gewurztraminer is unrivalled
with exotic and Asian food, cheese and dessert.
Background to Alsace
Grand Cru wines
Experts appointed by the INAO (Institut National des Appellations
d’Origine des vins et eaux de vie) have delimited a total of 51
individual production sites, which are protected by means of very strict
regulations.
To be entitled to AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) Alsace Grand
Cru status, as defined by the decree of 24 January 2001, a wine must
come from grapes picked by hand in one of the strictly defined sites
within the limits of the Alsace wine region of production.
A winegrower wishing to produce AOC Alsace Grand Cru wine must
declare before 1 March each year, exactly which vineyards and grape
varieties are destined for such wines.
Beyond fixing the rules of production, the decree of 24 January 2001
reinforces the role of each winegrowers union in the management of
each Grand Cru site (plantation policy, specific starting date for the
vintage, possibility of imposing a higher minimum ripeness level for
each site and grape variety, fixing the annual PLC for each site…).
13
Only four grape varieties are authorised for AOC Alsace Grand Cru :
Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat d’Alsace.
However, the decree of 21 March 2005 authorises the use of the
Sylvaner variety for AOC Alsace Grand Cru Zotzenberg and in the
blended wines of AOC Altenberg de Bergheim.
The decree of 12 January 2007 also authorises blended wines for
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Kaefferkopf.
To be entitled to AOC Alsace Grand Cru status, wines must exceed
the minimum natural potential alcohol level defined by decree for each
grape variety and for each site :
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Riesling and Muscat
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Zotzenberg Sylvaner
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim Pinot Gris and
Gewurztraminer
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim Riesling,
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim blend
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Kaefferkopf Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Kaefferkopf Riesling
AOC Alsace Grand Cru Kaefferkopf blend
11°
12,5°
11°
14°
12°
14°
12,5°
11°
12°
Every vine planted since 1 September 2000 must be cultivated
according to new regulations concerning the density of plantation,
distance between rows, and height of vegetation. Vineyards must
be planted with a minimum density of 4500 vines per hectare.
Grapes must be picked by hand.
In addition, new regulations concerning pruning now apply to all
vineyards, concerning the distance between the horizontal wires
and the number of buds authorised per vine depending on variety.
All vineyards must be pruned to a maximum of from 8 to 10 buds
per m2 according to the grape variety.
The maximum authorised yield is 55hl/ha, plus from 0 to 20% of PLC,
but the maximum yield of 66hl/ha must never be exceeded.
It is compulsory for the label of all AOC Grand Cru wines to mention,
besides its AOC Alsace Grand Cru status, the named vineyard
(terroir) and the vintage year. In general it will also state the name of
the grape variety, except for blended wines (Kaefferkopf and
Altenberg de Bergheim).
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Decree of 24 January 2001 concerning AOC « Alsace Grand Cru ».
Decree of 21 March 2005 concerning AOC « Alsace Grand Cru ».
Decree of 12 January 2007 concerning AOC « Alsace Grand Cru ».
14
The Grands Crus of
Alsace
51
Named vineyards
defined
Named vineyard (village)
Altenberg de Bergbieten
Altenberg de Bergheim
Altenberg de Wolxheim
Brand (Turckheim)
Bruderthal (Molsheim)
Eichberg (Eguisheim)
Engelberg (Dahlenheim and Scharrachbergheim)
Florimont (Ingersheim and Katzenthal)
Frankstein (Dambach-la-ville)
Froehn (Zellenberg)
Furstentum (Kientzheim and Sigolsheim)
Geisberg (Ribeauvillé)
Gloeckelberg (Rodern and Saint-Hippolyte)
Goldert (Gueberschwihr)
Hatschbourg (Hattstatt and Voegtlinshoffen)
Hengst (Wintzenheim)
Kaefferkopf (Ammerschwihr)
Kanzlerberg (Bergheim)
Kastelberg (Andlau)
Kessler (Guebwiller)
Kirchberg de Barr
Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé
Kitterlé (Guebwiller)
Mambourg (Sigolsheim)
Mandelberg (Mittelwihr et Beblenheim)
Marckrain (Bennwihr et Sigolsheim)
Moenchberg (Andlau et Eichhoffen)
Muenchberg (Nothalten)
Ollwiller (Wuenheim)
Osterberg (Ribeauvillé)
Pfersigberg (Eguisheim and Wettolsheim)
Pfingstberg (Orschwihr)
Praelatenberg (Kintzheim)
Rangen (Thann and Vieux-Thann)
Rosacker (Hunawihr)
Saering (Guebwiller)
Schlossberg (Kientzheim)
Schoenenbourg (Riquewihr and Zellenberg
Sommerberg (Niedermorschwihr and Katzenthal
Sonnenglanz (Beblenheim)
Spiegel (Bergholtz and Guebwiller)
Sporen (Riquewihr)
Steinert (Pfaffenheim and Westhalten)
Steingrubler (Wettolsheim)
Steinklotz (Marlenheim)
Vorbourg (Rouffach and Westhalten)
Wiebelsberg (Andlau)
Wineck-Schlossberg (Katzenthal and
Ammerschwihr)
Winzenberg (Blienschwiller)
Zinnkoepflé (Soultzmatt and Westhalten)
Zotzenberg (Mittelbergheim)
Principal geological soil
type(s)
Marl-limestone-gypsum
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Granite
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Granite
Clay-marl
Limestone
Marl-limestone-sandstone
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone & loess
Marl-limestone-sandstone
Granite and limestonesandstone
Argilo-marneux-gypseux
Shale
Sablo-argileux
Marno-calcaire
Marl-limestone-sandstone
Sandstone-volcanic
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone
Marl-limestone with scree
Stony-sandstone-volcanic
Sandy-Clay
Marl
Limestone-sandstone
Marl-limestone-sandstone
Granito-gneiss
Volcanic
Dolomitic limestone
Marl-limestone-sandstone
Granitic
Marno-sableux-gypsum
Granitic
Marl-limestone
Marl-sandstone
Stony-clay-marl
Limestone
Marl-limestone-sandstone
Limestone
Limestone-sandstone
Sandy-sandstone
Granitic
Granitic
Limestone-sandstone
Marl-limestone
15
The wines
The terms
"Vendanges tardives" and "Sélection de grains nobles"
Either of these two terms may be used on labels of wines of AOC Alsace or Alsace Grand Cru.
They designate exceptional wines produced according to some of the strictest criteria of any
AOC wine in France.
The quintessence of
"terroir"
The semicontinental climate of the Alsace wine region, with its very low
rainfall and remarkable sunshine during the autumn period, makes it
eminently suitable for the production of over-ripe grapes and to the
development of noble rot (botrytis cinerea). In the very finest vintages, long
after the normal harvest is over, Gewurztraminer, Pinot gris, Riesling and
Muscat grapes are carefully hand-picked when they have reached maximum
opulence.
Vendanges tardives and Sélection de grains nobles wines come from
grapes with extremely high levels of natural sugar (the minimum levels are,
together with those required for vin de paille in the Jura, the highest of all
french AOC wines) and are wines of exceptional class.
The difficulty and unpredictability of their production and vinification, added
to their necessarily high cost, meant that for the past decades only a handful
of Alsace producers specialized in such wines.
It is fitting that the considerable effort made by these pioneers was rewarded
by the official recognization of vendanges tardives and sélection de grains
nobles wines by ministerial decree on 1st march 1984.
Vendanges Tardives
Sélection de Grains
Nobles
They are produced from late-picked grapes of the Gewurztraminer, Pinot
gris, Riesling or Muscat varieties, generally several weeks after the official
harvest. The identity of each grape variety and its aromatic character are
enhanced by the phenomenon of concentration and by the development of
noble rot.
They are produced by successive selective pickings of grapes affected by
noble rot (botrytis cinerea). The character of the grape variety is often more
discreet, due to the sheer concentration of expression and to botrytis
cinerea. The full, intense aroma, full body, mellow character and long finish
make these wines true masterpieces.
16
Strict conditions of
production
To benefit from the specific mentions "Vendanges tardives" and "Sélection
de grains nobles", wines of AOC "Alsace" and "Alsace Grand Cru" must
meet the following very strict criteria of production :
• they must come from grapes picked by hand, not by machine
• they must come from one single grape variety and be declared and sold
•
•
•
•
•
under the name of that grape variety,
they must indicate their vintage year,
they must come from one of the authorized grape varieties
(Gewurztraminer, Pinot gris, Riesling or Muscat) with a
minimum natural ripeness level as shown in the table below,
they must not have been chaptalized,
their harvest must have been declared in advance to the local I.N.A.O.
office (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée des vins
et eaux-de-vie),
they must have been presented for and successfully passed the
analytical and blind tasting examinations required for each specific
mention.
MENTION "VENDANGES TARDIVES"
sugar g/l
Gewurztraminer
.....................................
Pinot gris
...............................................
Riesling
.................................................
Muscat d'Alsace
.....................................
potential alcohol degree °
Decree
Vintage 2008**
Decree
Vintage 2008**
243
257
14°4
15°3
243
257
14°4
15°3
220
235
13°1
14°0
220
235
13°1
14°0
MENTION "SELECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES"
sugar g/l
Gewurztraminer
.....................................
Pinot gris
...............................................
Riesling
.................................................
Muscat d'Alsace
.....................................
potential alcohol degree °
Decree
Vintage 2008**
Decree
Vintage 2008**
279
306
16°6
18°2
279
306
16°6
18°2
256
276
15°2
16°4
256
276
15°2
16°4
* coefficient 16,83 g/l
** In order to reinforce the specific quality of these products, minimum ripeness levels were increased from the 2001 vintage
onwards (within the framework of the annual modifications adopted by the National Committee of the INAO). The Decree
itself will be formally updated at a later date.
Reference to the text of law relating to Alsace Vendanges tardives and Sélection de grains nobles wines :
* The decree of 1st March 1984 relating to wines of both AOC "Alsace" and "Alsace Grand Cru" (concerning the 2 mentions
nd
"Vendanges tardives" and "Sélection de grains nobles"), whose article was modified by the decree of 2 December 1999
(article 1, clause 1).
17
The Food
Alsace wines with food
The great diversity of Alsace wines makes them ideal partners for an incredible variety of
cooking styles.
All Alsace wines, AOC, Alsace Grand Cru and Crémant d'Alsace, are
just as perfectly suited to gastronomic occasions as they are to simple
everyday meals and informal get-togethers. They are perfect matches
to even the most exotic kinds of cuisine, from poultry to shellfish to foie
gras to game to cheese and even as an apéritif… A wide variety of
international tastes that we invite you to discover.
SERVING AND STORING ALSACE WINES
Serving
Alsace wines should be served between 8 and 10°C. Overchilled, their
delicate aromas can not be fully expressed. Warmer, they appear
heavier and lack their attractive natural freshness. It is best to use
clear glasses, with a tall stem (to avoid being warmed by the hand)
and a tapered bowl, which concentrates the aroma. Crémant d'Alsace
should be served in tall flûte glasses (better than flat, saucer-shaped
ones) at between 5 to 7°C.
Storing
Ideal conditions for the conservation of Alsace wines are a cool cellar
with a stable temperature (10 to 15°C), neither too dry nor too damp,
with the bottles laid on their sides. Though they can be enjoyed young,
at from 6 months to 5 years after the harvest, the finest vintages (like
1983, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1997), and Grand Cru, Vendanges Tardives
and Sélections de Grains Nobles wines, will all benefit from longer
ageing.
WHITE ALSACE WINE MATCHES
Sylvaner
Classic matches : Light, crisp and refreshing, Sylvaner goes well with
shellfish, oysters and mussels, with snails and grilled fish, as well as
with charcuterie and cold meats.
Unusual matches : Sylvaner will lighten rich, hearty country dishes,
and especially fondues. It is difficult to associate wine with vinaigrette,
but Sylvaner's liveliness and crisp, flinty tang make it a fine partner for
salads and crudités.
Pinot blanc
Classic matches : Soft and delicate, Pinot Blanc is a subtle foil to
fish, poultry and white meats.
Unusual matches : Pinot Blanc is delicious with all egg-based dishes
: baked egg, omelette, quiche. It is also a nice match for mild cheeses
(crème de Gruyère, carré frais…).
18
Riesling
Classic matches : Noble and distinguished, Riesling is the ideal dry
white wine for all great occasions, partnering the most refined,
delicate gastronomic dishes : fish, white meats and poultry in not-toospicy cream and white wine sauces.
Unusual matches : Riesling is also perfect with exotic dishes, like
those with citrus, lemon and grapefruit flavours, as well as raw fish
(sushi). Its fine acidity and mineral character will enhance the flavour
of dry goats' cheese too.
Pinot gris
Classic matches : Its opulently long, rich, sometimes smoky taste
and velvety fullness makes Pinot Gris a perfect partner for flavourful
dishes like foie gras, white meats, poultry in sauce and even game
birds.
Unusual matches : Pinot Gris, with a powerful character and
autumnal hints (mushrooms, moss, fallen leaves) perfectly matches
full-flavoured foods like sweetbreads, calves' liver and kidneys, and is
ideal with all mushroom-based dishes.
Gewurztraminer
Classic matches : Richly aromatic, Gewurztraminer matches all
strongly-flavoured cheeses, like Munster, Maroilles, Livarot, blue
cheeses etc. The aromatic character of both cheese and wine are
mutually complementary, with the wine adding a firm structure and
spicy flavours. Gewurztraminer is also perfect with all desserts that
are not too sweet.
Unusual matches : Gewurztraminer's aroma is an explosion of fruit,
flowers and spices. This makes it particularly suited to the exotic
perfumes of Asian, Indian and Moroccan cuisine. The daring alliance
between Gewurztraminer and the trio of ingredients so dear to
Mediterranean tradition : tomato, anchovy and olive oil, is another
revelation !
Gewurztraminer
vendanges tardives
The sweeter the dessert, the more it calls for a late-picked Vendanges
Tardives or even a Sélection de Grains Nobles wine. But both wines
can also be savoured luxuriously on their own.
Muscat d’Alsace
Classic matches : Not to be confused with the sweet Muscats of the
Mediterranean, dry Alsace Muscat is a wonderful apéritif, thanks to its
freshness and unique fruit aroma (like biting a fresh Muscat grape).
Unusual matches : Muscat is naturally suited to all vegetable and
vegetarian dishes, whether raw or steamed. Thanks to its slight
acidity, it is an ideal wine to serve with asparagus.
Crémant d'Alsace
Classic matches : Crémant d'Alsace wines are ideal partners for all
celebrations. They match the finest dishes : caviar, canapés, fish and
white meats, and enliven cocktail parties and informal get-togethers.
Unusual matches : With desserts or with fresh fruit.
19
RED ALSACE WINE MATCHES
Pinot noir
Classic matches : The Pinot Noir develops characteristically lingering
red fruit aromas (notably cherry). Depending on its style of vinification
(as a rosé, a light red wine or an oak-aged red wine) it will partner a
wide range of dishes, from charcuterie to red meats.
Unusual matches : Enjoy it with a gratin of soft fruit.
Crémant rosé
Made from the Pinot Noir grape, which gives its characteristic
fruitiness, it is recommended with charcuterie and cold meats.
ALSACE WINES MATCH EVERY MENU
Apéritif
• Canapés, savouries, sausage
rolls, quiches, cheese straws,
pizza, prunes in bacon
Cold starters
• Classic salads, charcuterie, eggs
• Crustaceans, shellfish, seafood
• Fish terrine, raw fish (sushi)
9 Crémant d’Alsace, Muscat
d’Alsace, Gewurztraminer
9 Sylvaner, Pinot blanc,
Pinot noir
9 Sylvaner, Riesling, Pinot blanc
9 Riesling, Sylvaner
9 Gewurztraminer
• Spicy salads (Asia, Mexico,
Morocco, India)
Warm starters
Foie gras
9 Pinot gris, Gewurztraminer (also
Vendanges tardives) and Crémant
d'Alsace
• Quiches, pies, soufflés
• Snails
9 Sylvaner, Pinot blanc
9 Sylvaner
9 Pinot blanc, Muscat d’Alsace
Asparagus
Fish
• Grilled, cooked in butter or in
cream sauce
• Cooked with spices or stronglyflavoured ingredients
9 Riesling, Pinot blanc, Crémant
d'Alsace
9 Pinot gris,
Gewurztraminer, Riesling
20
Poultry and white meats
• Roast poultry
• Poultry in sauce
• Roast pork or veal
• Rabbit
• Duck
• Exotic recipes (spicy, full-
9
9
9
9
9
Pinot blanc, Riesling
Riesling, Pinot gris
Pinot blanc, Pinot gris
Pinot gris
Pinot gris, Pinot noir
9 Gewurztraminer
flavoured or sweet-and-sour
dishes)
Offal
Red meat
Game
Cheese
• Calves' or chicken liver
• Kidneys
• Tripe in white wine sauce
• Pinot Noir (especially when vinified as a red wine)
• Pinot Gris or Pinot Noir (according to the recipe)
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
ƒ
Dessert
9 Pinot blanc, Pinot gris
9 Pinot gris, Pinot noir
9 Riesling
ƒ
Fresh and young, mild
cheeses : Pinot Blanc
Dry goat's cheese
Cheese fondues
Soft cheeses, matured ripe
cheeses (Munster, Pont
l'Evêque, Maroilles), blue
cheeses
Hard and other cheeses
9 Pinot blanc
Pastries, tarts, creams,
mousses : Gewurztraminer
9 Gewurztraminer, (and also as
Vendanges Tardives)
9 Riesling
9 Sylvaner
9 Gewurztraminer
9 Pinot noir
To relax after the meal
Vendanges tardives and Sélections de grains nobles
Outside the context of
the meal
ƒ
Receptions and informal get- 9 Crémant d’Alsace, Muscat
togethers
d’Alsace, Gewurztraminer,
Vendanges tardives and Sélections
de grains nobles
21
The vineyard area
Alsace wines in a few key figures
15 535 hectares of vineyards produce an average harvest of 1,15 million
hectolitres of AOC Alsace wine per year, that is over 150 million bottles.
Alsace wines represent :
z 40 % of total agricultural turnover in the Alsace region (above 60 %
of its crop production)
z 18 % of total French production of still white AOC wines.
Evolution of
production for all AOC
Alsace (Alsace, Grand
Cru, Crémant)
SURFACES AREA IN PRODUCTION
15 600
15 535
15 500
15 448
HECTARES
15 400
15 300
15 305
15 298
2005
2006
15 230
15 200
15 082
15 100
15 000
14 900
14 800
2003
2004
2007
2008
TOTAL PRODUCTION BY VOLUME
1 131 443
800 000
1 151 749
1 000 000
1 081 690
1 263 564
HECTOLITRES
1 200 000
1 154 892
1 400 000
1 004 078
Production
characteristics
2007
2008
600 000
400 000
200 000
0
2003
2004
2005
2006
The surface area of the vineyards has been in constant progression over the
past 30 years.
Its future expansion however remains limited.
22
Evolution of
production area by
grape variety for all
AOC Alsace (Alsace,
Grand Cru, Crémant)
between 1969 and
2008
Total area in production 9 441 ha
SY
27,3%
1969
PB
11,0%
CH
10,6%
Mél.
8,0%
RI
12,7%
PN
2,1%
PG
4,1%
GW
20,6%
MU
3,6%
Total area in production 15 535 ha
2008
PB
21,2%
RI
21,7%
SY
8,9%
CH
0,6%
autres (CHD+KH)
1,3%
Mél.
0,6%
PG
15,2%
PN
9,6%
CH
CHD
GW
KH
MEL
MU
PB
PG
PN
RI
SY
Chasselas
Chardonnay
Gewurztraminer
Klevener de Heiligenstein
mélange
Muscat d’Alsace
Pinot Blanc
Pinot Gris
Pinot Noir
Riesling
Sylvaner
GW
18,6%
MU
2,3%
The area planted with Sylvaner has declined considerably over the past
decades, having been replaced notably by Pinot blanc and Pinot Gris. During
the same period, the area planted with Riesling has risen significantly.
23
837 696
822 973
839 602
1 000 000
872 766
1 003 183
1 200 000
824 806
Evolution of AOC
Alsace production by
appellation (Alsace,
Grand Cru, Crémant in
hectolitres)
235 705
32 942
43 278
44 972
223 942
41 557
214 946
45 435
40 473
200 000
140 632
400 000
248 775
600 000
273 733
HECTOLITRES
800 000
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
0
2003
AOC Alsace
Alsace wine
professionals
AOC Alsace Grand Cru
AOC Crémant d'Alsace
There are 4;930 winegrowers in Alsace, of whom 1.840 farm more than
2 hectares, covering almost 90 % of the total vineyard area.
Only about 960 operators sell their wine in bottles, and of these some 210
account for more or less 90 % of the total volume. In 2008, sales were split as
follows :
9 individual winegrowers : ..................... about 20 % of Alsace wine sales
9 co-operative wine cellars : ................... about 37 % of Alsace wine sales
9 producer-merchants : .......................... about 43 % of Alsace wine sales
Turnover and sales
Alsace wines generate a turnover of some 500 million euros in their region of
production (that is, 40 % of agricultural turnover in Alsace region).
About 25 % of total sales are exported, almost 38 million bottles for 2008,
principally to the Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, USA, Canada,
Sweden and in Great Britain. Alsace wines are sold in over one hundred
countries.
24
Evolution of sales of
Alsace wines (all
appellations) on the
home and export
markets
1 300 000
1 200 000
1 100 000
1 000 000
HECTOLITRES
900 000
800 000
700 000
600 000
500 000
400 000
300 000
200 000
TOTAL
METROPOLE
EXPORT
100 000
0
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
25
1- By hectolitres
Hectolitres
350 000
300 000
250 000
200 000
150 000
100 000
50 000
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004
2003
2002
2001
2000
1999
1998
1997
1996
1995
1994
1993
1992
1991
1990
1989
1988
1987
1986
1985
1984
1983
1982
1981
1980
1979
1978
0
The decrease of sales observed from 1990 on are mainly due to the
German market, but is balanced after 1993 by the development of the
other major markets.
2- By value (K€)
milliers d'euros
130 000
120 000
110 000
100 000
90 000
80 000
70 000
60 000
50 000
40 000
30 000
20 000
10 000
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004
2003
2002
2001
2000
1999
1998
1997
1996
1995
1994
1993
1992
1991
1990
1989
1988
1987
1986
1985
1984
1983
1982
1981
1980
1979
0
1978
Evolution of exports of
AOC Alsace wines
during the past 20
years (excluding
Crémant)
After 1993 values within UE are estimated on average price only based on
shipments from the biggest exporters.
26
Export of AOC Alsace
(excluding Crémant) to
the 10 major markets
1-By volume
The fall in volume on the German market is mainly due to declining sales of
Edelzwicker.
At the same time, the Benelux union, the Netherlands and Denmark have
become fast-developing strategic markets (all Francophile countries with a
large proportion of white wine drinkers and high purchasing power).
2- By value
www.vinsalsace.com
CIVA - 12 avenue de la Foire-aux-Vins – BP 11217 - 68012 Colmar Cedex - France
Tél. : + (33 )03 89 20 16 20 - Fax. : + (33) 03 89 20 16 30 - mailto:[email protected]
27