Rabbit farming training manual

Canadian
Dorwan Giant
Rabbit
Farming
GuideBook
Contents
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Introduction
About Alcare Kenya Limited/Dorwan Internationale’ , Canada
Alcare Kenya Rabbit Farming Programme
Definitions to guide you in comprehending the training
Types of Rabbit Breeds in the world and Kenya
Facts about rabbit meat
Challenges/benefits of rabbit faming in Kenya
Why Dorwan Giant Rabbit for Kenya
Getting started
Essentials in Dorwan rabbit farming in Kenya
Selecting the starting breeding stock
Breeding and Producing Dorwan Rabbits
Rabbitry Management
Rabbit Diseases
Record Keeping
Marketing
Slaughtering and dressing
Rabbit Meat Recipes
AKL COMPANY’S RABBIT CONTRACT FARMING PROGRAMMES:
This is divided into four levels:
1. Dorwan Platinum
2. Dorwan Gold
3. Dorwan Silver
4. Dorwan Bronze
AS PER TRAINING SEE:
www.acarekenyafarms.kbo.co.ke
INTRODUCTION
Rabbit farming in Kenya is not new and has been gaining popularity over time.
The Government has been encouraging farmers to embrace the farming with relatively good results. Last year,
it came up with a rabbit farming strategy paper that will be used to develop a rabbit farming policy and
eventually a bill for parliament approval and law for the sector.
Indeed, rabbit farming has been a right of passage for many parents for their siblings to enhance
responsibility among their children through the use of indigenous species.
As agribusiness, however, , few farmers have embrace rabbit farming across the country and there is need
for farming awareness so as to accelerate the farming as well as rabbit meat consumption for a ready market.
Alcare Kenya Limited embraces rabbit farming as agribusiness and a commercial venture with objectives
of improving standards of living, provision of food, creating wealth and alleviation of poverty among all cadres
of Kenyans.
This training provides the farmer with basic details on how to do modest rabbit farming after joining our
farming programmes.
The information was carefully researched by Alcare Kenya Limited in conjunction with our franchisers,
Dorwan Internationale’, Canada who are the owners of the Dorwan rabbit breed .
ABOUT ALCARE KENYA LIMITED
In 2008, the founding Director, George Kibanya, felt the need to import a pure breed into the country after farming
the available breeds in the country.
After initial research with popular research bodies in Kenya, he imported the initial stock from Dorwan of over
2,000 Does and Bucks.
By end of the year, the population had grown to over 16,000 rabbits in our Solai Farm In Nakuru District and the
need for culling set in.
On culling more than 14,800 rabbits, he invested the proceeds in building a palatial home for the parents in
the same farm so as to indicate to potential farmers that rabbit farming can lead to great things.
In 2010, Canadian based Dorwan Internationale’ appointed Alcare Kenya Limited to spearhead farming the
Dorwan Giant rabbit in Kenya and export the rabbits to the company. AKL has been doing this to this date.
Dorwan Internationale’ is church based and deals in rabbit meat. It exports the meat to countries to big importers
of rabbit meat like Germany, Argentina, Australia, Great Britain, Italy and France among others.
The objectives of our rabbit farming are :
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Modern production and propagation of pedigree Dorwan Giant rabbits
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Dorwan rabbit breed sales to prospective farmers in groups or individual as starter breed stock
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Training and Equipping its farmers with comprehensive skills on the farming including production , management and
marketing
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Construction of Dorwan Giant rabbbit houses/ cages as per Dorwan internationals' Specifications
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Recruitment of suitable farmers for Dorwan Giant rabbit
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Supply of Dorwan Giant Rabbit meat, as pets and for research purposes to local and internationals markets including
butcheries, hotels, research institutions and other markets
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Undertaking research on rabbit farming
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Provision of rabbit insurance
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Working together with other stakeholders to promote the farming in Kenya
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Awareness programmes for rabbit meat and other products’ consumption
DEFINITIONS FOR THE RABBIT FARMING TRAINING
o Hutch - Rabbit House or cage
o Doe is a female rabbit
o Buck is a male rabbit
o Dam is the parent mother of a rabbit normally for breeding
o Sire is the male parent of a rabbit
o Breeding is the mating of Doe and Buck for reproduction
o Kiddling is when the rabbit is giving birth
o Gestation Period is period between breeding and kiddling
o Bunny is the young one of a rabbit
o Litter is a bunch of bunnies
o Kits are bunnies that are born by the Doe
o Weaning is the action of separating the young rabbit from the mother
usually after a month
o Serving is allowing the buck to impregnate the Doe
TYPES OF RABBIT BREEDS IN THE WORLD & KENYA
According to the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), there are 47
rabbit breeds in the world.
Out of these, about 7 breeds have been imported into Kenya
:
I.
Canadian Dorwan Giant
II.
California White
III. New Zealand White/Grey
IV. Dutch
V.
Chinchilla
VI. The Lops
VII. Flemish Giant
VIII. Angora
IX. Kenya One
*Others are Netherlands Dwarfs, Rarer, Harlequin, Rex, among others.
*The names of rabbits breeds are as a result of their colours, country
of origin, size, behaviour, cross breeding etc.
WHY CANADIAN DORWAN GIANT RABBIT?
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Canadian Dorwan Giant rabbit has the highest meat/bone ratio in Kenya
(80% meat and 20 % bone)
It matures well in both cold and hot areas, arid or semi-arid areas in the
country
It is resistant to common diseases in Kenya
A relatively small space is needed to commence farming the rabbit
It can take a wide variety of feeds that are commonly found in the
country.
It can rake in good results in a short period of time
Suitable for individuals, groups or corporates (to benefit vulnerable
groups in corporate social responsibility programs)
FACTS ABOUT CANADIAN DORWAN GIANT RABBIT MEAT
AND OTHER RELATED PRODUCTS
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It has high levels of protein
Its is low fat meat
It has no cholesterol hence suitable to health sensitive people
Quantity of the meat high
Suitable for the aged, those suffering from diseases like blood cancer, HIV/AIDS,
diabetes, high blood pressure, gout etc
Meat is easy to carry
Meat is easy to cook
Meat is easy to prepare as slaughtering and dressing a rabbit is easy
A Doe can produce 1000 % of her body weight as food in one year
Rabbit fur can be a separate source of income
Rabbit Manure one of the best for the farm
Rabbit urine can be used as a pesticide
Rabbit urine can be used as a foliar feed fertilizer
Rabbit skin can be sued to make items like unisex wallets, belts, phone pouches, indoor
and outdoor shoes etc
BENEFITS OF CANADIAN DORWAN GIANT RABBIT FARMING
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Rabbit cages take up small space in the compound
Rabbit meat is highly nutritious and recommended by health experts.
It is economical yet highly profitable over a short period of time
It can be done in any part of the country regardless of climate or weather
Rabbit fur and skin is highly valued for ornamental/classy products like
bags, wool products, etc
Veterinary services available
Rabbit feed is abundant and economical as they feed on most kinds of
animals feed as they feed on low quantities daily
Rabbit stool and urine is good manure for the farm
Price of rabbit breed and bunnies are affordable to all farmers
Canadian Dorwan Giant Rabbits have a market from AKL
Threat of predators is minimized by confinement
Rabbit Grass used to feed rabbits can be planted along riverside and hill
sides hence a good way of preventing soil erosion
Individuals, groups and corporates can easily venture into CDG Rabbit
farming for maximum benefits
CHALLENGES OF RABBIT FARMING
IN KENYA
Lack of market locally and external markets
Poor attitude towards rabbit farming
Rabbit diseases
Lack of suitable breeds
Lack of Government policy for rabbit farming
Low rabbit meat consumption/awareness of the
same
GETTING STARTED
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ACQUIRE WIDE KNOWLEDGE ON CANADIAN DORWAN RABBIT FARMING
THROUGH READING WIDELY, INTERNET, LITERATURE, TALK TO OTHER
FARMERS, LOCAL VET OFFICES, VISIT DIFFERENT RABBIT FARMS AND OTHER
FACILITIES
VISIT ANY OF AKL FARMS IN ANY COUNTY IN KENYA FOR CONSULTATION ON
C.D.G. CONTRACT FARMING AND TRAINING AT AKL
PLAN THE SIZE OF YOUR OPERATION FOR YOUR CANADIAN DORWAN GIANT
RABBIT FARMING
VISIT THE PRODUCTION FACILITIES AT OUR FARMS TO PURCHASE THE BREED, SEE
THE HUSBANDRY AND ASSESS YOUR STOCK SUPPLIER’S STANDARDS, RECORDS,
HEALTH OF RABBITS, CAGES, BREEDING ETC
PURCHASE BREED THAT WILL PRODUCE LARGE BUT NOT HUGE LITTERS (5 TO 10
KITS), RAISE A HIGH PERCENTAGE TO MATURITY AND PRODUCE GOOD QUALITY
ANIMALS
PREPARE THE RABBITS HEALTH WISE FOR THE NEW ENVIROMENT.
ESSENTIALS OF CANADIAN DORWAN RABBIT FARMING IN KENYA
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Rabbitry housing facilities
Equipment Required
Various Breeds
Rabbit Breeding guide
Benefits and Challenges of rabbit farming
Breeding Tips
Taking Good care of rabbits
Identification of the market
I, Rabbitry Housing/Caging
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Rabbits can be housed indoors (inside structure) or outdoors (open spaces)
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Should be well lit
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Should be well ventilated
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Should be facing away from wind direction
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Floor should be made of materials that will not keep urine and dropping from the rabbit
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Should be equipped with fodder, watering system and nest box made of wood, clay or normal dry
grass.
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Farmer should use affordable and locally available materials like timber, left-overs of timber used in
earlier buildings, etc
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House should be easy to maintain, clean and possibly move to another place in or out of the cage
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Outdoor housing is often less expensive and rabbits are usually healthier due to ventilation though
security should be enhanced
A rabbit house/cage should have the following:
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Comfortability for the rabbits : no protruding nails or wires that can injure the rabbits
Should be big enough to accommodate the rabbit, birth nest, (for nursing Does), feeding equipment and
to stretch and relax
Used oil should be used in the surrounding to keep away pests like safari ants and other harmful insects
Should be raised 0.6 metres high to protect it from dampness, rats and other predators and also provide
adequate ventilation
Roof should be slanting so that water runs off and canvas flaps be attached to all four sides and lowered
when the weather is bad
Although cages depend on the type of rabbits to be reared, smaller and medium breeds can use cages
ranging from 18 inches long by 24 inches wide to 24 inches by 24 inches square.
Should confine the rabbits and prevent them from escaping and also have enough room to move freely
The cages should be easy to clean, properly hinged and secured for safety
Walls should allow plenty of fresh air so as to allow it not to be too hot or cold and the door should be
big enough to enable feeding and cleaning of all parts.
Allow each rabbit to be kept on its own as bucks fight vigorously when put together
Must protect the rabbits from predators like cats, dogs, rats, poultry etc
Must protect the rabbits from adverse weather , plenty of air, adequate ventilation, cleanliness assured,
free from disease-causing microorganisms, not facing to wind direction, no direct sunlight, keep away
water that can be dangerous to the rabbit
Should allow easy and comfortable access by the care taker
Should be self cleaning and easy to clean
Be of reasonable cost, easy to maintain and durable
Each rabbitry should have excess cages set aside for isolation at different times of development of the
rabbits-at weaning time and at three (3) months of the rabbits at Mature adult stage of rabbits
Show animals should be secluded as they contract diseases at shows
Farmers joining our programmes MUST visit any of our five farms in Kiambu, Nakuru and Uasin Gishu
rabbits farms to see for themselves how the cages have been constructed as per the set specifications.
For moderate farmers, an automotive feeding and dinking system is most preferred.
ii. Equipment Required
a, The nest box or hutch
This is the most important equipment in rabbit production. It is used for reproduction/kiddling by the rabbit Doe and
also protects the young ones from adverse weather at the tender age after birth. It is made of wood, clay or dry grass.
Functions of the nest:
-Allows kindling and nursing by the doe
-Keeps young ones healthy and in a clean environment
-Keeps dampness from the animal’s urine
-Allows the Doe to scatter the nest for the young to adapt high temperature
-It’s a show of imparting responsibility of the Doe so as to get into the nest to suckle
as well as get to eat and drink in preparation of suckling the young and forits well being
-Allows movement in and out of the nest by the young and also not to leave the nest too early
recommended
-Allows the farmer to monitor production, remove any dead animals, introduce baby rabbits to be
fostered and change bedding materials easily, without destabilizing the doe and the young.
Features of the Nest:
Bottom:
*Should be hollow to allow young ones to huddle during low temperatures and disperse when temperature increases
*Prevents young ones from dislocation and swimming (bottom should be non skid)
*Should be designed to allow urine to run off and perforated to sixe 1 to 1.5 centimetres wide between the floor and the sides of the
box. Straw can be sandwiched between the two layers of mesh.
Side of the Nest:
*Should have the entry for access into the nest to prevent crushing of the young ones Food and water should be put through this entry
while allowing enough space for the Doe in the cage
*Access hole for the dam should fairly narrow , square or round
*Acess hole should be 15 centimetres across
*,There should be a sufficiently high edge level with the Doe’s access hole to keep the young from leaving the box too early (before day
15)
*The nest box could also be installed below the level of the cage floors so that the babies can get back easily.
B, Feeder and Drinker
Feeder is used to feed the rabbits and drinker for give water. They could be made of plastic , metallic or clay with each container having advantages and
disadvantages.
Clay containers are most preferred because they cannot be easily toppled over , have minerals which are assimilated directly by the rabbits and can be kept
clean with less food or water droppings.
Both containers should always be kept clean for proper hygienically conditions.
The following should be observed:
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Should not be easily toppled over by the rabbits
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They should always be kept clean as rabbits will eat from them not from the floor and to avoid wastage and spillage of water
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They should be made to ensure no injuries are inflicted on the rabbits
C, Food Storage
A provisional plan should be made on food storage after they are bought on weekly or more in
advance. Wetness and being fed by other rodents should be avoided as feeds are fairly costly.
A room should be built and door tightly fitted to keep vermin out and shelves should be included so
as to store hay, drugs, containers and many more.
D, Waste Handling
From consumption of the food and water given to rabbits, waste and faeces is generated. The design of the house
should as per the amount of waste produces which depends on of the size of the animal and type of feed
If waste management is not well-done,it will be a breeding ground for disease-causing bacteri and insect pests like
flies and mosquitoes. It will also be a source of harmful ammonia.
Poor rabbitry management and disposal will lower the production of your rabbits: make them unpleasant for the
place and also the worker/breeder
Iii, Various Breeds
There is a wide variety of rabbit breeds available in the local market apart from the Canadian Dorwan Giant rabbit which is comparably superior to them. The
breeds should have the characteristics as highlighted earlier in this guide.
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Rabbit Breeding guide
Benefits and Challenges of rabbit farming
Breeding Tips
Taking Good care of rabbits
Identification of the market
Breeding and Producing Dorwan Rabbits
Canadian Dorwan Giant Rabbit are reared for meat purposes.
Clearly understand your drive to keep rabbits and select a good starting stock of rabbits according to the one or
more of the following:
For income generating by selling them to other people, breeders, pet lovers, meat buyers, fur dealers etc
For human consumption to feed to human being or animals
As pets
For research purposes
For skins and fur
For mature/fertilizer production
For right of passage
A mixture of all or some of the above
Our rabbit farming programmes involves the farmers building the cages either on their own or we build for them
at a cost. Any mistake in selecting a good breeding to start with may result in poor offspring and propagation
of stock.
At the same time, the farmer is required to keep records and results to prove the worth of his/her
rabbit breeds and reputation of your stock over time.
Farmers are advised to insist on the records from the breeder to see the quality of the stock. Look for
the following from the records:
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Average litter size of 5 inches or more
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Death rate (not over 10%)
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Dressing percentage (55-60% including heart,liver and kidneys)
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Health of the rabbits including disease history, vaccinations etc
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Feeding records on the various types being fed
A breeder who keeps good , accurate and reliable records is most preferred. Look around for the breeder’s rabbitry for
clues on the type of operation present and whether the records are true to the letter or imposed.
BREEDING AND PRODUCING RABBITS
1. Acquire the starting stock from Alcare Kenya’s Canadian Dorwan Giant Rabbit Farm
2. Rabbit Doe should be 6 to 7 months’ old and the buck should be 7 months and over.
3. One buck should serve not more than 5 Does for good results
4. Follow a strict breeding schedules since outward signs of heat are not always evident.
5. Do not breed brothers to sisters, father to daughters, mother to son etc unless for
genetic experiments.
6. Never breed the same unless the farmer is trying to get meat rabbits with certain
characteristics- our breeds go down to four generations hence a good threshold for
rabbits to mate and get good results
7.
Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects like malocclusion(wolf tooth), moon
eye, (cloudy cornea), or produce offspring (skull does not come together (except in
dwarfs).
8. Determine whether the sire or dam is responsible for passing the genetic defect and
eliminate it for breeding purposes
9. Strive to perfect the standard for the breed the farmer is mating
Naturally, the Doe should be taken to the Buck for mating and not
vice versa. The farmer should supervise the serving while putting the Doe in
the Buck’s cage severally over short spans of time to different bucks.
MATING
Place the female rabbit/Doe in the buck’s cage for breeding and never vice-versa to avoid fighting as Doe fights
to protect its territory.
The buck is even more protective so it will mark its territory once placed in the Doe’s cage with his smell while the
Doe struggles to eliminate the intruder as a fight ensues.
If a Doe is placed in the buck’s cage, the immediate sexual reaction is spontaneous. Mating should occur
immediately and Doe returned to its cage.
Females will come to heat when the male is around. They can mate any time and produce a litter as they do not
go through cycles like most other creatures.
Females will come to heat when male is around. They can mate any time and produce a litter as they do not
through cycles like most other creatures.
It takes 20 to 120 seconds for the Doe to get impregnated and the act itself takes less than second. Since Does
are calmer and weight less than bucks, it should be they to be moved. The mating should be supervised hence
the animals should be visible and the cage accessible for the Doe to be introduced and removed.
If a Doe consistently gives a mating problem, eliminate it from the herd. A good conception rate 90% or better.
The farmer should use the buck once a day or two to three times for short periods of time for some producers.
Smaller litters result from too frequent use of a buck so ensure the buck is used intersperse.
After separating the Doe from the Buck after mating, the Doe should be treated as if the mating did not occur
only slightly increase its ration.
When breeding, each Doe should be taken back to her own cage to have her litter after the gestation period
usually 30-32 days. Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur to prepare the nest.
At this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her
to abort the litter.
During gestation, ensure to know whether the Doe is pregnant or not using the following two methods:
1. Palpating:
This method is used to determine the Doe’s pregnancy at 14 days after mating. This is done by
feeling developed embryos in the horns of the Doe’s uterus. The two horns hold the embryos so they feel
like chains of marbles on each side of the middle of the abdomen.
The task is more difficult if you wait for more than 14 days and almost impossible
Grasp the ears and a fold of skin from the shoulders with one hand. Place your other hand under the body
between the hind legs and just in front of the pelvis. Place your thumb on one side and forefinger on the
other side of the uterine horns.
Do not attempt palpation unless the Doe is calm or you may damage the embryos. With a little practice ,
you will learn to determine pregnancy even earlier than 14 days.
2. Mate the Doe with the buck once again. Since the Doe has two uterine horns, it is possible for one horn to
be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a
hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uterine to not form right, causing her to pass blobs
instead of babies as the date of kindling. This method is not only risky but also inaccurate.
Note that non-pregnant Does are re-bred immediately and only mate rabbits of the same breed except
breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation
False pregnancy
This happens when the Does is expected to kindle after the gestation period fails to do so. It
happens a
with Does expected to kindle for the first time. Always separate Does at least 18-20 days prior to
kindling
after mating. About 18-20 after stimulation, the Doe may pull fur and attempt to make a nest, but
she
won’t keep it clean. This is a sign of false pregnancy.
Kindling
Put a lot of hay, pine shaving or straw in the bedding area by the 21st day so that the Doe can
start building
the nest. The farmer should place a nest box in her cage on any time after the 21st day after
breeding for use
by the kindling rabbit/Doe.
Privacy is necessary at this stage at Kindling and slightly afterwards. Too much activity can lead to
cannibalism (the mother antagonizes the litter before eating the babbies).
Handling the Babbies can lead to death unless when necessary having petting the mother first
and get
her scent on your hand before touching the babies.
The average commercial litter consist of 5 to 10 kits with litter size of 3 inches to 8 inches . They
are born hairless
and with closed eyes. Their eyes will open after 10 days approximately. If saw dust becomes
stuck in the eye or
the eyes have not opened after 10 days, use a damp cotton and warm water to gently wipe the
eye, 48 hours
after birth, observe and count the kits, removing any dead animals.
When the litter finally arrives, do not expect every kit in the litter to be the same size, like multiple
human births
each kit will be different size and weight.
The litter should be kept warm and do not frequently hold them, use cotton wool or dry grass to keep
them warm.
After birth, she will feed her kits at dawn and dusk by standing over them for them to suck.
Baby rabbits will nurse only once or twice a day. It is normal if the mother spends most of the time
outside the nest.
Some rabbits will become slightly more aggressive while other will not mind being peeped at. Due to
this, behavior, quickly
peep when the mother is out of the nest. Rub your hand over the mother before touching the babies.
The Doe raises her babies through instincts. As such, do not touch the babies until 7 days
old otherwise you will change the way they smell and the mother will reject them or treat
them as foreigners leading to her killing them or leaving them for the dead.
Make sure there is no direct sunlight to the babies as it is highly sensitive at this stage.
Do not be upset or worry if the Doe kills or abandons her first litter.
Cannibalism
These are common problems in rabbit farming caused by
the following:
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Extreme nervousness of the first litter Does. They should be given more chances and then culled if cannibalism
recurs.
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Poor feeding method on unbalanced diet or lack of food altogether
III.
Strange dogs, predators or people can cause the Doe to stamp her feet and mash the young
IV.
Moving nest box makes the Does feel insecure and she is easily disturbed
WEANING
The young ones are weaned after 30 days. At this time, the litter will begin to nibble at solid food
as early as two weeks of age. They should be weaned early even with this observation unless it
is between four or five weeks after birth.
At this time, they begin to ingest bacteria that will eventually become part of their normal gut
(flora). The pH of the intestine is changing and the babies are ingesting many potentially
harmful bacteria. Now the kits can be separated with the mother. It is recommended to change
the mother to another cage and leave the kits where they are used to reduce stress on them which
can lead to diseases or even death. The mother can easily handle the environment of another
cage more than the kits.
SEPARATION AT 3 MONTHS
When rabbits are three months old, they should be separated again where brothers and sisters
should be kept in separate cages. This also allows faster maturity when alone, minimizes fights and
do not breed thus eliminating unexpected results and small litters. If this is possible, the farmer
can separate the Does from the bucks and keep each group separately.
Some males should be castrated at this point to be kept together since they cannot fight
hence minimize cost of building more cages.
Female rabbits can also be spayed to prevent further reproduction hence gain weight for sale.
Female rabbits can produce up to 50 live rabbits annually, with births high during the warm weather. They
produce an average of 5 to 10 babies in a litter. A slow breeding schedule makes the Doe hard to breed ,
makes the buck’s loose some of their viability and causes conception percentage to drop. Following an
accelerated breeding should eliminate problems. A buck and doe remain profitable for two years if fed and
managed properly. Their usefulness must be based on results rather age.
Determining Sex of a rabbit
Knowing the sex of a Rabbit can be a difficult task but having an experienced personnel may help ( See the
diagram below of how to determine sex of a rabbit:
To determine sex of a rabbit the farmer needs
to:
1. Hold the rabbit with hind legs and the back facing you
2. Restrain the head with one hand gentle pressure with the other and apply the
3. While applying pressure to the vent area, you will see the anus, the opening closest to the tail
4. The opening farthest from the tail is the genitals.
MALES
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The male organ will appear as a tubular protrusion
Its round in diameter, very light pink in young males and has a rounded tip with a smaller circular opening at
the centre.
In most bucks you will notice the testicles on each side to the penis.
They are like small mounds under the skin and in older males are not covered with fur.
Bucks can sometimes withdraw the testicles into their abdomen
FEMALES
You will see a pink slanted oval protrusion with a slit versus a small round opening when the pressure is applied.
Other Sexual differences in older rabbits:
More physical differences between the sexes appear as rabbit’s age on. Bucks have blockier
heads and are smaller than Does of the same breed. Most adult Does of medium or large
breeds will have a dewlap, which is the large fold of skin under their chins. Does have nipples,
whereas, bucks do not. However, the nipples may be difficult to find on a Doe that has not had
a litter. So, similar to the testicles in the males, even if you cannot find the nipples on a rabbit,
the rabbit could still be a Doe.
Handling rabbits
Handle your rabbit as much as possible to gain its confidence. Never pick up the rabbit by the ears or ears
especially when you want to palpate the Doe when you are taking Doe to the buck and when you check the Does
litter after kiddling.
Rabbits should be handled only when necessary since they are very delicate animals. Never handle them in the
following ways:
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Lift the rabbit by the years or by the scruff of their necks
Stroke from the top of the rabbits head back
Do not put your hand out to be sniffed like a dog as the rabbit may take it as an attack. They do not like their nose and
chin touched.
Note:
o For a first time rabbit owner, you should place the rabbits in their cages once you get home and wait for 48 hours before
handling them to avoid very grumpy young rabbit from the start
o It is best to use hands and support the back legs properly
Picking up the rabbit
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With the rabbit facing you, place your hand under the rabbit’s chest and stomach
Balance the rabbit on your right hand and lift it up a little
Place your left hand under the rump of the rabbit until the rump is resting on your hand
Move the rabbit forward until its head is secure tucked under your left arm
Remove your hand or gently lay your right hand on the back of the rabbit added safety while moving
Examining a rabbit from its cage
a.
Removing the rabbit from the cage
Put left arm in the cage and place your left hand palm over the rabbits shoulder with your
thumb in front of the ears
Gently cup your hand around the shoulders and squeeze your thumb against your index
finger, gasping the rabbit to the point that you have control over the rabbit. Put your right
hand in the cage under the rabbit’s belly, lifting the rabbit to the cage door. See the
illustration below:
b. Flipping a rabbit to show the Underside
• Have the rabbit facing your left side and firmly hold the
rabbit’s ears and scruff in the palm of your right hand
• Lift the rabbit with your left hand cupped around the
hindquarters
• Support the rabbit with your left hand as you turn the
rabbit over
• Complete the turn, resting the hind quarter on a table so
your left hand is free to examine the rabbit
C. Finish the examination
Reverse the turn and set your rabbit down again.
You may use the other hand if it easier for you.
RABBITRY MANAGEMENT
A. Nutrition
B. Diet Essentials
C. Feeding rabbits through their stages
of development
D. Health
E. Aeration
F. Record Keeping
A.
Nutrition
Rabbits have to have real food. Pellets have everything a rabbit needs. Adult rabbits can be fed around 25
grammes of pellets for ½ kilogramme of rabbit.
Pellets are the most important in the younger stages of rabbit development at bunny stage because they are highly concentrated in nutrients, helping to
ensure proper weight gain. A quality pellet food should be high in fibre (18% minimum) and nutritionally balanced.
As rabbit grows, pellets should be lessened and food with higher quantities of hay
and vegetables.
Avoid over feeding the rabbits since a fat Doe does not reproduce efficiently. Care should be taken on the amount of
food being fed to the breeding animals.
Baby rabbits , pregnant and breastfeeding rabbit Does should always have food and water in their cages. Feed Doe with
pellets unlimitedly., wilted grass, hay and plenty of clean fresh water.
Rabbits eat hay to help their digestion as well as fruits and vegetables.
At AKL’s Dorwan Giant rabbit farm, we have many large size breeds and also raise animals for meat, we feed 18% protein
ration. This is inadequate for dwarfs who are minority at our farm and we are not ready to have different feeds for
different breeds.
Rabbits have a unique digestive system and must be able to move at all times to remain healthy.
A rabbit develops gastritis it stops eating or does not have access to some type of feed. It becomes increasingly difficult
to restart the digestive system. It is advisable to divide their daily food ration into multiple feedings and provide high
quality hay for them to graze on.
Changing or introduction of new foods
This should be done gradually over a period of 5 to 6 days. The first two days feed your rabbit the old pellet and then
each day add more of the new brand.
Make sure you monitor closely the rabbits during these change over time. Discontinue immediately the new feeds if
you notice a significant change in the rabbit’s health or behaviour.
Do not change food too quickly as this is not good for your rabbit.
B. DIET ESSENTIALS
Hay:
Rabbits have fresh hay available 24 hours a day. Rabbits less than 7 months old may have alfalfa hay, but older rabbits should have
grass hays such as timothy or oat hay.
Hay is essential to a rabbit ‘s good health , providing the roughage that helps reduce the danger of hair balls and other blockages.
When you give your rabbit forage, like haye,keep the forage off the cage floor by trying it together in a bunch and hanging it from the
ceiling or wall of the cage or placing it in a place far away from where the rabbit urinates or defaces. Try not to put your rabbit feed
directly on the floor of the cage where it will be dirtied by urine and droppings. Dirty food can make a rabbit sick.
Try to keep your rabbit’s forage dry. If your rabbits eat wet forage, they may get sick with diarrhea. If forage is wet when you cut it, let
it wilt/dry a little bit before you give it to your rabbit.
Rabbits need clean water at least twice a day . Ideally, fresh water should be available round the clock. They are subject to
dehydration so make sure they always have plenty of water. Each day, change the ware in the dish or water bottle with fresh water.
Vegetables
Vegetables provide valuable roughage as well as essential vitamins
At the age of three months, start introducing vegetables a little at a time. This way, you will be able to know which food may cause
digestive upset.
Eliminate those that may cause diarrhea or soft stool while continuing to add new vegetable varieties including leafy ones and of
different colours. Once rabbit is used to the vegetables, feed it at least different kinds daily for a mix of nutrients.
Chewing Items
It is important to prevent uneven tooth wear that comes as a result of little chewing by the rabbits as this causes
enamel to grow on the sides of the teeth. The spikes cause oral pain and excessive salivation (slobbers) and also
cause reluctance to chew , inability to close the mouth and eventual reduced food intake.
As the teeth continue to grow , the situation deteriorates resulting to severe malnutrition if not stemmed.
Chew sticks and gnaw of untreated wood of various sizes and shapes should be given to the rabbits apart from
vegetables and hay.
Minerals and Vitamins
Depending on age and health status of the rabbits, the vet may recommend minerals and vitamins for each rabbit available
from agro-vets.
Studies on the calcium and phosphorus requirements of growing rabbits show that they need less than lactating Does.
Commercial pellets contain enough minerals. Block or spool salt is not needed under normal circumstances , but you can
regularly complement with multivitamins to be sure they are getting balanced mineral levels.
C. FEEDING RABBITS THROUGH STAGES OF DEVELOPMENT
To ensure healthy development, digestion and weight, rabbits, rabbits need to be fed differently at different stages
of their lives so long as you avoid sudden changes in diet as new foods should be introduced gradually.
Fresh water should always be provided and clay water containers are recommended as compared to all
other containers.
Quality pellets, fresh hay, fresh clean water and fresh vegetables are the cornerstone of any good adult rabbit diet. Any other
diet element is treat and should be given in limited quantities and in varying quantities according to the age of the animal.
Baby Rabbits
A baby rabbit or kit feeds on its mother’s milk for the first weeks as this milk contains high levels of antibodies that protect the
kit from diseases.
After three weeks, the kit will begin nibbling on hay and pellets and by seven (7) weeks the baby rabbit can fully handle feeding
on hay and pellets in supplementation of the mother’s milk.
Kits are usually weaned from mother’s milk completely by 10 weeks of age depending on the breed.
Juveniles
These are rabbits at the age of between 7 weeks and 8 ½ weeks. They weigh between weaning and 7 months, the young rabbit
can have an unlimited amount of pellets and hay.
At three (3) months of age, small amounts of vegetables should be slowly introduced in small bits at a time. If any vegetable
cause digestive problems, avoid feeding it in the future.
Young Adults
These are rabbits with ages of 3 months onwards and at the stage of being introduced to grass, hays and oats. These feeds should be available
all day long.
The fibre in hay and grass is crucial in making the digestive system work properly.
At this stage, they will require little hay as well as fewer pellets. Hay has more calories and calcium for developing rabbits.
Do not feed pellets to the young adults in unlimited quantities, but ensure to follow the rule of ½ cup of pellets per kilogramme of body weight
daily.
To make nutritional gain, you must increase your rabbits ‘ intake of vegetable and hay.
Mature Adults
These rabbits should be fed on a lot of hay, grass and oat hay. You should reduce the pellets portion of the diet.
A standard guideline is ¼ cup of pellets per 3 kilogrammes of body weight per day. Several servings of vegetables are required (2 cups
per 3 kilogrammes of body weight daily). Make sure to choose dark leafy greens and feed at least three different kinds daily.
Seniors
These are rabbits that are six (6) years and over and can be fed the same diet as mature rabbits if they do not
have weight loss problems.
The farmer needs to increase pellet intake if the pet is not able to maintain its weight.
The caution here to the farmer is he/she should not overfeed the rabbit. Twice a day during morning and night is
good enough except on instances where the rabbit is pregnant and need food throughout both during and after
the pregnancy.
Foods to avoid feeding to the rabbits include lettuce (harmful to the digestive system) and poisonous plants like
fox glove, yew, creeping, creeping butter cup and all plants from bulbs. Also Avoid tubers like onions, arrow
roots, cassava a and sweet potatoes.
D. HEALTH
Cleanliness
Healthy and productive rabbits need clean and dry homes. The area in and around the cages should be clean
always. Dirt, droppings and urine should be removed frequently to keep away germs that could cause diseases.
Thorough cleaning should be taken care of every weekend. Spot cleaning should be done on need basis and keep
cleaning including hosing, scrapping and burning, should be done a minimum of twice each year.
Daily cleaning include removing dropping and left over food. Food and water troughs should be cleaned daily and use
a detergent or disinfectant to clean the troughs and sun dry them to avoid infections.
The cages should be disinfected regularly at least once a month and every time a rabbit is removed to another cage to
prevent disease spreading. Through the movements.
Most important of all, ensure you clean food and water troughs daily.
Reasons foe cleanliness:
a) To prevent the eggs(cysts) of the parasite coccidian in the digestive tract does not mature and hatch through
faeces/droppings and become infectious. This may lead to contracting coccidiosis.
b) To prevent wetness in the cages which is a common cause of pneumonia.
c) To keep away vermin like rats and pests like safari ants attracted by dirt in the cages.
E. AERATION
Aeration is allowing enough air to the rabbits to ensure raising health rabbits. They also require a constant change of air. Do not keep them closed up and ensure to use wood all through in cage construction.
Rabbits also require sunlight hence it is important to provide sunlight to all rabbits since they get vitamins.
F. RECORD KEEPING
It is the only way to know what you are doing for timely, informed decision-making and sound management.
The better the records, the better these practices are in rearing your rabbits in as far as knowing whether the farmer is making a profit or loss in your rabbit farming life.
Keep only necessary records after deciding what you need.
Some of the vital records include:
i.
Breeding records like date, breed and buck used
ii.
Kindling dates and number born, dead and alive
iii.
Number and weight of weaned rabbits
iv.
Average weight at market time and age of rabbits at that weight
v.
Expenditure (including utilities)
vi.
Sales
vii.
Record of visitors to your farm by date and their comments about your farming
Benefits of good records include:
a)
Helps in improving the farm and the business
b)
Determining whether an accurate , comprehensive and up-to-date history is currently recorded for each rabbit by comparing existing practice to a set standard
c)
Assisting in knowing the accurate data of each rabbit being sold to prospective buyers for breeding, research or for meat.
d)
Helping in knowing when to breed and when not to-this avoid breeding father to daughter, defective animals, sister to brother , mother to son and so on.
e)
Showing which Doe is bred by which buck to avoid in breeding and breeding defective Dams and Sires
f)
Helping in tracking growth, breeding or any other activity incase there are changes from normal to routine issues like change in diet, cage, environment , weather etc.
g)
h)
i)
Assisting in budgeting and
planning on food and water rations for your rabbits. Amount of food, hay and water to give and whether you
are making a profit or loss are determined.
Identifying changes to improve the quality and standard of recording rabbit’s historic occurrences and to determine if these have
been effective or not.
Helping in following up on various issue to be done on the rabbits like vaccinations, treatment, vitamins , supplements et cetera
Its usually a good idea to select rabbits to breed whose ancestry has evidence of good productivity and good genetics. That is where
productivity records and pedigrees listing show winning come in handy. Keep productivity and show records of your herd just for this
purpose.
See below an example of rabbit farming record keeping :
DORWAN GIANT RABBIT FARM
10
CAGE 10
NO.
CANADIAN
DORWAN
GREY DOE
DATE SERVED
10.05.2010
DOE
D.O.B.
NO.OF
LITTER
DEAD/ALIVE
EXPECTED
DATE OF
NEXT
SERVICE
MARKETING
(LOCAL & EXPORT)
Market in Kenya (Local Market):
The fact is that there is no structured market
for rabbits, rabbit meat and other products in Kenya although there is spirited efforts to promote the
market.
The Government, research bodies and other institutes of learning have strived to create awareness on
this area occasionally providing extension services and training to the rabbit farming sector. The full
impact of all these efforts are yet to bear any meaningful economical benefits.
Notable efforts locally are efforts of research made by University of Nairobi's Faculty of Veterinary
Medicine in Kabete, Nairobi County, the International Livestock Research Institute (ILRI),
Government’s Ngong Research station among few others.
Rabbits meat is not a common delicacy in Kenya and awareness programmes need to be put in place
to improve the situation. It is only 5% of rabbit meat is consumed in the country with all the abundance
of the meat .
It is against this background that AKL’s Dorwan Giant Rabbit introduced a buy-back -guaranteed farming
that all farmers under the programme enjoy. In the programme , AKL buys all the Dorwan rabbits
reared by the farmer.
For the specific farmer who knows the benefit of rabbit meat, the following methods are applicable:
Start by consuming rabbit meat yourself and
introducing the concept to your family, friends,
neighbours, etc starting from people in your locality
and in your phonebook for higher returns.
Introduce rabbit meat to your meals especially when
you have visitors
Joining rabbit associations or forming one as a group
so as to forge synergies suitable to marketing of the
rabbits and their products more efficiently
The farmer needs to target youths, individuals, other
farmers, hotel and restaurants and local butcheries.
Target research institutions.
Target persons who would liken to keep rabbits as
pets.
EXPORT MARKET
Global importers of rabbits meat and other products include:
oArgentina
oSpain
oNetherlands
oGermany
oCzech republic
oUnited Kingdom
oItaly Russia
oSwitzerland
oPortugal
oUSA
oCanada
oChina
oGermany
oCzech republic
oUnited Kingdom
o France
Rabbits for Breeding
This is the biggest market so far in Kenya
especially owing to the increasing demand
among the middle class for rabbit keeping.
A weaned rabbit is fetching as much as Kes.
2,000 onwards while mature ones are at Kes.
4,500 onwards.
Rabbits for medicinal use/laboratories
This is the best market for rabbits from the fact that it is an export business hence very lucrative once the
market is established.
A farmer in Mwingi has been exporting live rabbits to a drug manufacturing firm in South Africa at Kes. 15,000
for a 3 month old rabbit. A prominent politician from Central Kenya has established a market in Egypt and China.
Rabbit Urine
Rabbit urine is used as a direct insecticide and a foliar feed fertilizer. Unfortunately, this market is not
exploited due to small production and poor construction of cages. Our modern self cleaning hutches for our
farmers can produce urine of economical magnitude for collection and hence ensure nothing goes to waste.
Manure Production:





Rabbits good manure quality should be used in the gardens as fertilizer
It can be used to rear fish worms for fish or chicken. They build worm beds outside
the rabbitry so they can provide the proper moisture for the for the worms help
break down manure and can cause some drying before being fed to the fish or
chicken
Manure can be sold to either farmers on a large scale since it has high nutrients and
high recommended
Manure should be kept in a single heap away from the rabbit cages to keep away flies
and other insects
Keep the manure away from hutches to keep away the stench
• Rabbit Skins and Fur
• Rabbit skins are used as far since ages ago. They are used for the
manufacture of felt, miscellaneous toys and other times. The market
demand and value, type and number of rabbits being slaughtered, the time
and facilities are all factors that influence whether the fur should be saved
and prepared for marketing by the big farmer.
• Quality and value depend on the animal being slaughtered. Young animals
produce poor quality fur and less value while those from adult rabbits are
superior in quality.
• Those with dense fur not easily removed from the skin the most desired
• Upon removal from the animal, fur preparation process starts. Cuts and
tears should be avoided and fat should be removed. Ads fur is removed turn
them inside out while still warm and moist. Place them on wire stretchers or
shapers with the front leg casings on one side. The shapers extend or expand
the pelts to their full length, but do not stretch them out of shape. Hang the
skin in a well ventilated drying area, but not in direct sunlight. After the skins
are dry the wire shaper is removed. Do not use salt or other chemicals on
skins.
SLAUGHTERING AND DRESSING RABBITS
People love high-proteinous and low fat lean meat in this era and therefore rabbit meat is very ideal and highly
recommended even by medical practitioners and nutritionists.
The farmer also needs to know about slaughtering, dressing and packaging.
Slaughtering procedure
There are two methods of killing the rabbit, that is, through dislocation of the neck and striking the skull hard quickly
behind the ears.
In the first method, the rabbit is held firmly by the rear and head and stretched full length. Then with a hard sharp pull, the
head is bent backwards to dislocate the neck.
In the second method, a blunt stock is used to incapacitate the rabbit by hitting the skull making it unconscious.
After either of the above methods, the rabbit is hung by one of the hind legs above the hock joints of the legs and then cut
between the points across the lower part of the body. Remove the tail and pull the skin down and forward over the
body. The forefeet are then removed.
The next step involves cutting the skin around the hock joints of the legs and then cut between these points across the
lower part of the body. Remove the tail and pull the skin down and forward over the body skins of the body. The
forefeet are then removed.
The next step involves cutting the skin around the hock joints of the legs and then cut between these points across the
lower the lower part of the body. Remove the tail and pull the skin down and forward over the body. The skins of the
young age rabbits are easily removed in this way more than for the old rabbit.
Handle the skin well avoiding unnecessary cuts while slaughtering especially if you are intending to sell the skin.
While the carcass is still hanging , remove the viscera. Make a cut from the lowest part of the abdomen near the anus to
the mid-point of the lowest rib. The intestinal tract and lungs are normally removed. Liver, kidneys and heart remain
in the carcass. Remove the carcass from the hanger and cut off the rear feet at the hock joint.
Wash the carcass clean with water to remove hair and any other soil or debris and store it at a cold temperature. The
carcass should not be held in water for a long time as this may contaminate it due to excess moisture.
Dressed may be sold whole or can be cut into pieces or parts. Various types of marketing devices (plastic cartons and trays)
are available for packaging one or more carcasses.
Dressing Percentage
This is the relationship between the weight of a
dressed carcass to the weight of the live animal
as a percentage(%).
It depends upon the quality of the animal at
slaughter, breed, age, amount of fat and the
number of internal organs left with the carcass.
Animals with good meat characteristics have
higher percentages than thin animals. Normally
the liver, heart and kidneys remain with the
carcass and are included in the carcass weight.
DRESSING PERCENTAGE OF NEW ZEALAND AND DUTCH RABBITS AT DIFFERENT AGES
AGE
CANADIAN
DORWAN GIANT
RABBIT
DUTCH
8 WEEKS
60%
60.3%
13 WEEKS
75%
63.3%
Mature
80%
62.8%
DRESSING RABBITS:
Animals that are in average condition or slightly better than better than average have dressing percentage of about 55% while good quality animals reach dressing percentage 0f 60% or
higher. Normally, dressing percentage increases with age until rabbits approach maturity.
Other additional information
Rabbits are extremely territorial. The territorial behavior include depositing marking pellets at the boundaries of their territory, urinating and aggressive behaviour like digging, circling and
fighting.
When introducing new rabbits, territory must be considered to eliminate the possibility for development of any territory behavoiur in the rabbits.
Use a water bottle with nozzle set on steam to break up any fights if they if they occur. Spray the instigator before a fight actually occurs by watching on
aggressive instead of working on breaking up existing fight.
Toys
Rabbits like to play and are very active at night than in the day. Give them a clean and empty soda can and place a thin block or board in their cage for them
to chew. A block of wood should be place in the cage for the rabbit to get off the wire.
TEETH
They have two lower incisors and four (4) upper incisors. They have 28 teeth and two of the upper incisors are small and hidden behind the larger two.
Rabbit teeth continue to grow throughout its life.
To keep the rabbits’ teeth worn down, a pine of wood or board is ideal.
Trim teeth that are deformed from birth or from injuries then the rabbit will have its teeth trimmed regularly so the rabbit can continue to eat properly.
Check his teeth to make sure they are corrected aligned and that none of them are broken. The farmer will only be able to view his front teeth because the
rabbit molars are very deep in the mouth.
Your vet will have to check the molars periodically once, say twice, a year to ensure they are correctly aligned.
Toe Nails
Rabbit nails should be trimmed regularly to prevent human scratches and snagging toe nails. Use dog or cat nail trimmers.
Testicles
The testicles of the male rabbits are very mobile and they can pull them down into the abdomen and may not be appararent on inspection.
Male rabbits will often spray their urine to mark their territory. Males should not put in the same cage as they will fight hard trying to protect their territory.
Other behaviours include:
1.
Sniffing to indicate the rabbit is annoyed or just talking to you
2.
Grunting showing that it is usually angry or ready to bit
3.
Circling your feet means that it is indicating sexual behaviour
4.
Shrill cream m shows the rabbit is dying
5.
Spraying the cage shows that the males that are not neutered are making female rabbits in this matter in this manner as well as their territory.
Females will also spray.
6.
Chinning their chins on items means that they are trying to identify what belongs to them
7.
False pregnancy-usually unsprayed females may build a nest and pull hair from stomach and chest to line the nest. They may stop eating as
rabbits do the day they give birth.
8.
Bunny hop means a sign of happiness
9.
Begging-they beg mostly for sweets. Beware to spoil them with treats to avoid overweight.
10.
Territory Dropping: Droppings are not in a pile, but they are scattered especially after entering a new environment
11.
Playing : rabbits like to push objects around. Avoid rearranging the cages especially during cleaning.
OUR RABBIT FARMING PROGRAMMES
1.
DORWAN BRONZE FARMER
This is the lowest cadre of rabbit farmers for the farmer to join our programme. The farmer buys a
minimum of six mature served rabbits, five females and one male. The Does were served by
completely different Bucks and the Buck supplied will take over after birth in one months’ time.
A bronze farmer constructs 15 cages so that the empty 9 are used at weaning and separately
brother from sisters at three months of the life of bunnies.
This farmer must however embrace insurance of the 6 rabbits. At starting level so that if any rabbit
dies or is stolen after 30 days, AKL can replace. Sufficient evidence and documents are required
before replacement by the company.
2.
DORWAN SILVER FARMER
This farmer purchases 10 served Does and 2 Bucks and builds 24 cages so that the 12 empty cages
can be sued for weaning and
separation of brothers and sisters at 3 months.
The earlier a rabbit is put in its own cage at young age the better so as to give it a formidable
foundation to reach the maximum weight of 8 kilogrammes.
This farmer must embrace insurance for all the 12 rabbits.
DORWAN GOLD FARMER
This is the highest cadre of farmers at Alcare Kenya Limited. The farmer buys 20 served Does and
4 Bucks.
Apart from the farmer embracing insurance, he/she must embrace other conditions set out by
Alcare Kenya Limited so that the farmer can replicate what AKL does.
For all our farmers, we purchase back the rabbits that they rear
after five months.
3.
RABBIT MEAT RECIPES
Recipe 1: Roast Rabbit
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time, 1.5 hours. Serves 4.
Ingredients:
2 tsp cooking oil
2 tbsp finely minced onion
¼ cup finely minced celery
2 cups soft bread crumbs
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper
¼ tsp ground dry ginger
¼ tsp soy sauce
¼ cup chopped water chestnuts
1/3 cup chicken broth or rabbit stock
1 rabbit, about 4 to 7 lbs (whole)
1 tbsp soft butter
½ tsp paprika’2 tsp marmalade
2 tsp bottled steak sauce
Method:
Heat oil in a small skillet. Add onion and celery,
saut’e until soft. In a large bowl,mix onion, celery
and next 7 ingredients. Spoon into cavity of
rabbit,fasten with skewers. Blend butter and
paprika , brush on surface of rabbit.Roast,
covered , at 350Degrees farenheight for 50
minutes after juices begin to sizzle. Mix
marmalade and steak sauce, spoon over rabbit.
Roast uncovered, 20 minutes longer.
This recipe will go well with yams and garden
vegetables.
RECIPE 2: FRIED RABBIT IN BREADCRUMBS
Ingredients:
2 TB Milk
1 OZ Flour
¼ tbs Salt
¼ tbs Black pepper
1 Fryer size rabbit, cleaned – cut into serving pieces
1 egg-lightly beaten with 1 T water
3 oz Fresh breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil for deep frying
4 Parsley sprigs
Method:
Place milk on one bowl and mix together flour, salt and
pepper in another. Dip rabbit in milk then flour
mixture, coating thoroughly. Set aside for 10
minutes
Combine egg and water in one bowl and breadcrumbs
in another. Dip rabbit first in egg mixture, then
breadcrumbs, coating thoroughly. Fill a large frying
pan one third full with oil. Set over moderate heat
until it reaches 360 degrees F or cude of dry bread
dropped into oil turns brown in 50 seconds.
Fry the rabbit pieces for 20 minutes or until tender
when pierced with a fork. Remove from the pan and
drain on paper towels. Arrange on a serving dish
garnish with parsley sprigs and serve immediately .
This can be served with sautéed potatoes and any
fresh green vegetables.
Recipe 3 : Boneless Rabbit Stew
Ingredients:
1 whole rabbit
Flour
Ground black pepper
Garamasala
Slow cooker or casserole dish
Vegetables to taste (celery is good)
Cut the rabbit into three sections, then cut off all easily removed meat
with a knife and then cut this into small (1/2 inch) cubes. Dredge cubes
in flour with black pepper and garamasala to taste. Put remaining bones
and meat into a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and
simmer for five minutes. Put boiled bones through sieve, keeping the
stock. Let bones cool . Sauté cubes in small amount of vegetable oil
until browned. Remove remainder of meat from cooled bones by hand.
Put all ingredients (except bones!) into casserole or slow cooker, bring
to the boil and then simmer until cooked.