A basic guide to cosmetic formulation

A Basic Guide to
Cosmetic &
Toiletry Development
John Woodruff
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1
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
2
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
3
What is a cosmetic product?
European Regulations specify 6 functions for
cosmetic products, namely:
to perfume
to clean
to change the appearance
to protect
to keep in good condition
to correct body odours
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4
To perfume
Perfume
Toilet waters
Mists & sprays
Aromatherapy preparations
Bath additives
Shower gels
Deodorants
Body lotions
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These products
should
not penetrate the skin
but perfume
compounds
including essential
oils may do so.
5
To clean
Soap
Syndet bars
Bath additives
Shower gels
Cleansing emulsions
Scrubs
Cleansing masks
Shampoos
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These products should
not penetrate the skin
but they do affect the
skin surface (Stratum
corneum – SC), they
can remove skin lipids,
affect skin barrier
properties, increase
cell turn
- over, change
pH & cause loss of
moisture
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To change the appearance
Decorative cosmetics
Foundation creams
These products should
Blushers
not penetrate the skin.
Lipsticks & eye shadows
Fake tans
Cover fine lines & wrinkles
Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*
Freeze facial muscles*
DHA tanning*
Skin lightening*
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*These products need
to penetrate the S.C.
7
To protect
Sun protection
Barrier creams
Antiseptic washes
Anti-oxidants*
Protect immune system*
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These products should
not penetrate the skin.
*These products need
to penetrate the S.C.
8
To keep in good condition
Moisturise
Occlusive film
Humectants
NMF*
NMF = Urea, cholesterol,
sodium lactate, lactic acid,
amino acids, phospholipids,
sodium PCa, water
Anti-oxidants*
Support immune system*
Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*
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*Generally these
products need to
penetrate the S.C.
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To correct body odours
Deodorants
Antiperspirants
Cleansing*
e.g.washing
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These products should
not penetrate the skin.
*These products may
affect the S.C.
10
Field of application
The field of application of cosmetics is to
one or more of the following:
the epidermis
the hair system
the nails
the lips
the external genital organs
the teeth
the mucous membranes of the oral cavity
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11
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Field of
Application –
anywhere
visible, with
or without
swimming costumes
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12
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
13
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Brief
A clear concise document produced by the
marketing department after extensive
market research with intended claims
clearly defined.
Or
Woolly description full of pitfalls like
“Natural” & “Organic” and claims changing
as new ideas occur to originator.
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14
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Packaging
Already identified and selected as the
ideal pack form to contain and deliver the
product.
Or
To be decided!
Usually after 2 months stability testing on a
product with a quite unsuitable rheology for the
final pack choice.
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15
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Bench Mark
An exciting & innovative product with clear
functional benefits & with a similar selling price to
the product required.
Or
Two or three totally different products, all 3x the
selling price of the product required.
Does the bench mark meet the product
requirements?
Claims, market niche, legislation?
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16
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Time Table
A program agreed between all concerned,
allowing sufficient time for formulation, testing and
proceeding to manufacture via pilot scale batches.
Or
Marketing has a slot promised by a major store 5
months ahead. That is plenty of time surely!
Remember formulations can fail at any
stage.
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17
Tip
Read the brief and also read between the
lines:
If “natural” claims then reduce non-naturals
to a minimum & no animal ingredients
If “organic” avoid all proscribed ingredients
E.g. Ethoxylated materials
Most preservatives / colours / minerals /
petroleum-based materials etc.etc.
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18
Tip
Read the brief and also read between the lines:
If one customer, obey special requirements
If for sensitive areas, mucous membranes etc.
avoid unsuitable colours & preservatives
Mucous membranes
in the vicinity of the eyes
on the lips
in the oral cavity
on the external genital organs
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19
Tip
Read the brief and also read between the lines:
Identify target consumer
Young – greasy, acne
Old – mature, dry, sensitive, lacking radiance &
resilience
Cleanse, tone & leave alone
Cleanse, desquamate, moisturise, cover up
Middle – combination skin
Protect & moisturise
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20
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
21
Sources of Information
Look at the bench mark & competitors products?
Do they deliver their claims?
If so how?
cosmeticsdesign-europe.com
Chemidex.com
Cosmeticsbusiness.com
Suppliers representatives & web sites
Trade press & relevant articles
Conference presentations
Patent literature
Text books
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22
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
23
The Regulations
Ignore at your peril
EU 76/768/EEC – The 7th Amendment
And all subsequent amendments
The Cosmetic Products (Safety)
Regulations 2004 SI 2185
Customer-specific requirements
e.g. Boots GR-10
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24
The Regulations
EU 76/768/EEC – The 7th Amendment
It lists those materials that cosmetics must not
contain
Those materials subject to restrictions in field of
application and/or maximum allowed %
A positive list of colours
A positive list of antiperspirant materials
A positive list of preservatives
A positive list of UV absorbers
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25
Mucous membranes
Be aware
More prone to irritant reactions
Restrictions on colours
Restrictions on preservatives
More stringent microbial rules
Only ingestible products i.e.those with
A.D.I., should be applied to the lips
Tip - match pH to area of application e.g.
Eyes are 7+/- 0.2 / Skin is ~5.3
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26
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
27
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries for the
Global Marketplace
EU / USA / Japan / Brazil etc.
Each area has own regulations
Particularly affecting
Colours
Preservatives
Antiperspirants
Sunscreens
Also
Labelling
Names of ingredients
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28
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
[email protected]
29
Cost effective formulation of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Start with current material inventory
Don’t add cost without adding value
Keep it simple – but effective
Look at methods of production
Colin Hession
Process plant availability
Heating costs / cooling costs / mixing costs
/ processing time costs
Fill using current machinery
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30
Tip
Think commercially
Use materials that are already in current stock
wherever possible
Use laboratory mixing equipment which
represents that available in the factory
Think of the likely batch sizes
Can they be made with existing equipment?
If there is a problem can the formula be revised?
Can the product be filled with existing equipment?
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31
Tips
Use laboratory mixing equipment which
represents that available in the factory
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32
Tips
Use laboratory
mixing equipment
which represents
that available
in the factory
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33
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation Techniques
[email protected]
34
Stability and preservation of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Preservative choice affected by
Regulations
Type of product
pH of product
Leave-on or Wash-off?
pH < 6 / pH > 7
Other ingredients
Parabens inactivated by ethoxylates
Phenoxyethanol thins many emulsions
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35
Stability and preservation of
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Stability checking is essential
Minimal requirements are stability testing at 4C /
RT / 40C for 3 months plus light where applicable
45C used by some companies
Freeze / thaw cycles
Test in final packaging
A product should remain stable for minimal 36 months at
RT
Continuing preservative efficacy over testing period is
essential
PAO = Period After Opening – depends on product type
and packaging
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36
Tip
Decide which preservatives can or cannot be
used
Talk to marketing. Talk to microbiologist
The choice could affect your product stability
Make selection of perfume a priority
Talk to marketing and talk to the supplier
The choice could affect your product stability
If possible incorporate these two items in
development samples from the outset
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37
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Formulation Techniques
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38
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Cosmetic functions
to perfume
to clean
to change the appearance
to protect
to keep in good condition
to correct body odours
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39
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Functional products are those for which a
claim can be made, and which meet that
claim.
They consist of the vehicle and the active
ingredient(s).
The two parts must be compatible and the
final product must be pleasant to use.
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40
Claims substantiation
All proposed claims and methods of
substantiation should be agreed at the start of
product development so that a clear justification
of claims can be provided from controlled
laboratory trials.
User trial results (responses from 50 people) or
raw material data or a combination of the above
can be used.
From Boots document to own label suppliers
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41
Functional skin care
The vehicle and the active ingredient(s).
The two parts must be compatible and the
final product must be pleasant to use.
Which comes first?
Depends on many factors
Product form
Packaging
Claim
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42
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
To keep in good condition
Remove dead skin cells
Protect from UV radiation
Support immune system
Protect from free radical species /ROS
Replace lost lipids
Moisturise
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43
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Narrowing the choice
Cost
Supporting the claim
Check that claim support data is realistic and believable
Will the product support the level of use on which claims
data is based?
Compatibility with vehicle
Compatibility with packaging
Safety assessment
Patent search
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44
To keep in
good
condition
Remove dead skin cells
Wash
Scrub
Tape stripping!
Peels including enzymes e.g. Papain
Alpha hydroxy acids – AHAs
Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid
/ salicylic acid
Fruit acids
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45
AHAs: Selecting the active
Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid
Proprietary mixtures e.g. Acifructol Complex ex Gattefosse
Aqua (Water)
Citric Acid
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
Citrus Medica Limonum Extract
Lactic Acid
Malic Acid
Propylene Glycol
Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract
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46
AHAs: Safety & legal issues
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that glycolic and lactic
Acid are safe for use in cosmetic products at
concentrations <10%, at final formulation pH >3.5
Boots recommendations
Glycolic acid must be less than 4% in formula and
pH of final product must be > 3.8.
Lactic acid must be less than 2.5% in formula and
pH of final product must be > 5.
If total AHAs are more than 4% then wording
must appear on pack recommending
consumers use products with AHAs in
conjunction with sunscreen products.
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47
AHAs: Selecting the active
Possible choice
Glycolic acid
Plus proprietary mixture
Combines effectiveness with natural claims
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48
AHAs: Designing the vehicle
Parameters
pH 4 – 5
Electrolytes
Low oil content
Penetration required
Possible forms
o/w emulsion
foaming mousse
light scrub
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49
AHAs: Designing the vehicle
o/w emulsion
Emulsifier suitable for pH 4 – 5
Oil or ester resistant to acid hydrolysis
Penetration enhancer ?
Balance efficacy against safety
Urea or ethoxydiglycol
Or soften SC with emollients
Anti-irritation ingredient e.g. Bisabolol
Perfume / Preservatives / Rheology modifier
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50
AHAs: Possible formulation
3.00%
Glyceryl stearate
1.00%
PEG-100 stearate
3.00%
Caprylic / capric triglyceride
1.00%
Paraffinum liquidum
Aqua to 100%
0.05%
Disodium EDTA
2.50%
Glycolic acid
3.00%
Mixed fruit acids
5.00%
Ethoxydiglycol
0.50%
Bisabolol
0.20%
Xanthan gum
Fragrance
Preservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl paraben
pH adjusted to 3.8 – 4.3
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51
To keep in
good condition
Protect from solar radiation
Why we should do so!
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52
To keep in
good
condition
Protect from solar radiation
Sunscreen Actives
Organic screens
Less expensive
Well known properties & technology
But possible irritation
Possibly unstable
Product / pack interactions
Inorganic
Safe
Broad spectrum
But whitening on skin
Drag on application
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53
UV Protect: Selecting the active
Dependent on
Required SPF
Is UVA protection required?
Intended market – legislation?
Intended vehicle & pack form
Clear gel
o/w emulsion
w/o emulsion
Oil
Spray
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54
UV Protect: Selecting the active
Possible answer
Organic UV absorber
plus inorganic dispersion
Not suitable for oil or clear gel
e.g. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate – UVB
TiO2 dispersion in oil phase to extend UV
protection into UVA or
ZnO dispersion for increased UVA
protection
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55
UV Protect: Designing the vehicle
Design parameters
pH
ZnO approx 8
Effect of inorganic dispersion aid
Solubility of active
Skin penetration not wanted
Water-resistant
Pleasant to apply
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56
UV Protect: Possible formulation
3.00%
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
2.00%
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
5.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
1.50%
Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane
0.50%
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
12.50%
Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil
3.50%
Cera Alba (Beeswax)
3.50%
Sorbitan Palmitate
Aqua (Water) to 100%
2.00%
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
2.00%
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica
3.50%
Polysorbate 20
0.30%
Sodium Lactate
Fragrance / Preservatives
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57
To keep in
good
condition
Support immune system
Abstract USP 6,843,995
The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation
containing an active complex comprised of an
extract from truffles (Tuberaceae) in a
cosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized.
A preferred active complex is one that additionally
contains a champagne product. Cosmetic
preparations containing this active complex lead
to an improved stimulation of the immune
system, an improved regenerative effect and thus
to an improved balance in the ecosystem of the
skin.
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58
Support immune system
Possible formulation
Truffles
Champagne
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59
To keep in
good
condition
Anti- oxidants
Protect against free radicals
Vitamin E - Tocopherol
Vitamin C – Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compounds
Ferulic acid
Superoxide dismutase
BHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds
Numerous plant extracts e.g.
Lycopene from tomatoes
Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract
Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract
Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract
Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extract
Salix nigra (Willow) bark extract
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60
To keep in
good
condition
Replace lost lipids
As skin ages the ceramide content of the SC
decreases.
Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are
effective in restoring lost lipids and the barrier
functions of the skin.
Ceramides AKA Sphingosines (9 identified)
Fatty acid = linoleic acid particularly effective
Together with cholesterol, lamella structures are
formed, which penetrate upper SC.
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61
To keep in
good
condition
There is a water
- gradient from the lower levels of the
skin to its surface where it evaporates as transepidermal
water loss (TEWL)
There is a decrease in moisture content from the base
layers to the surface (70%- >10%)
As skin ages it loses more moisture but all skin may be
subject to increased moisture loss through
environmental conditions
Moisturising is the basic requirement for nearly all skin
care products
Moisturise
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62
Moisturise
Select the active
The choice of moisturising ingredients is
very wide
Petrolatum & other oils & fats form an
occlusive film, virtually preventing TEWL
Lanolin has moisture holding properties
and can penetrate upper SC
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63
Moisturise
Select the active
Glycerin & other hygroscopic humectants
attract water to themselves; with more moisture
on the skin there is a reduction in loss through
evaporation
Proteins hold moisture and are substantive to
skin
NMF duplicates the skin moisturising system
Lamellar structures penetrate SC, restoring its
natural barrier properties
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64
1,2,6-Hexanetriol
Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate
Lactose
PEG-8
Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium
PEG-9
Chloride
2,3-Butanediol
Chitosan PCA
Acetamide MEA
Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan CopolymerLupine Amino Acids
PEG-90
Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
Choline Chloride
Lysine PCA
Polyamino Sugar Condensate
Adenophora Stricta Root Extract
Copper PCA
Maltitol
Polyglyceryl Sorbitol
Agarose
Corn Glycerides
Manganese PCA
Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
Alanyl Glutamine
Diglycerin
Mannitol
Polyglycerylmethacrylate
Albatrellus Confluens (Mushroom) Extract
Dimethyl Imidazolidinone
MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk
Potassium Lactate
Albumen Extract
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Menthyl PCA
Potassium PCA
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides
Erythritol
Methoxy PEG-10
PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
Algae
Ethoxydiglycol Oleate
Methoxy PEG-100
PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
Aloe Andongensis Extract
Ethylhexyl PCA
Methoxy PEG-16
PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine
Aloe Andongensis Leaf Juice
Fructose
Methoxy PEG-40
PPG-6-Sorbeth-245
Aloe Arborescens Leaf Protoplasts Glucamine
Methyl Gluceth-10
PPG-6-Sorbeth-500
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Gluconic Acid
Methyl Gluceth-20
Propylene Glycol
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Glucosamine
Orange Peel Wax
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Amidinoproline
Glucose
Panthenol
Saccharide Isomerate
Anserine
Glucose Glutamate
PCA
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Arginine PCA
Glucuronic Acid
PEG-10
Sesame Amino Acids
Bacillus/Rice Bran Extract/Soybean Extract
Glycereth-12
Ferment Filtrate
PEG-10 Propylene Glycol
Sodium Aspartate
Backhousia Anisata Leaf Extract
Glycereth-20
PEG-100
Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate
Banksia Spinulosa Flower Extract
Glycereth-26
PEG-12
Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate
Benzyl Hyaluronate
Glycereth-7
PEG-135
Sodium Glucuronate
Bidens Pilosa Extract
Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate
PEG-14
Sodium Lactate
Bifida Ferment Extract
Glycerin
PEG-15 Butanediol
Sodium PCA
Bifida/Soybean Extract Ferment
Glycol
PEG-16
Sorbeth-20
Bis-hydroxyethyl Tocopherylsuccinoylamido
Hexacosyl
Hydroxypropane
Glycol
PEG-18
Sorbeth-30
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Hydrogenated Honey
PEG-180
Sorbeth-40
Bittern
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate PEG-2 Lactamide
Sorbeth-6
Bixa Orellana Seed Oil
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
PEG-20
Sorbitol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PEG-20 Acetate
PEG-200Copolymer
Sucrose
Black Strap Powder
Butyl Ethyl Propanediol
Hydroxyethyl Sorbitol
PEG-240
TEA-Lactate
C30-45 Alkyl Methicone
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey
PEG-32
TEA-PCA
Calcium Fructoborate
Inositol
PEG-4
Trehalose Dihydrate
Calcium PCA
Lactamide MEA
PEG-40
Urea
Caprylyl Glycol/Glycerin/Polyacrylic Acid
Lactamidopropyl
Copolymer Trimonium ChloridePEG-55
Urea-D-Glucuronic Acid
Carnitine HCI
Lactic Acid
PEG-6
Xylitol
Caryocar Coriaceum Seed Oil
PEG-60
Xylitylglucoside
Cellulose Succinate
PEG-75
Yeast Polysaccharides
Moisturising
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65
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
The brief
Target skin type & area of application
Claims
The cost
Petrolatum / glycerin etc are cheap
Ceramides / yeast ferments etc are
expensive
Botanicals have consumer appeal
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66
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
The pack form
Spray / bottle / tube / jar
The vehicle
Gel / lotion / cream
Other actives
Multi-functional
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67
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a gel
What thickening system?
Carbomers / cellulose / mineral /
alginates?
pH restraints?
Clarity required?
Oils & Fragrance create problems
Compatibility issues?
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68
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a gel
What thickening system?
Exposed to light?
Photo-degradation
Thinning and/or discolouration
Preservative system?
Mixing requirements?
Heating / cooling / high shear / slow
mixing
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69
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
Select gel form
Carbomer
pH 5.5- 7.5
No electrolytes
Water- soluble actives
Chelate ions
Protect against UV
Cold mixing possible
High shear not required
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70
Moisturising gel
Carbomer based
Chelate + UV Absorber (EDTA2Na +B4)
+ Neutraliser (e.g. NaOH or TEA or AMP)
+ Preservative system (e.g. Parabens)
Humectant (e.g. Glycerin or PG or Sorbitol)
Active e.g.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Hydrolysed wheat protein
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71
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a lotion
What emulsifying system?
Anionic / cationic / non
- ionic
w/o or o/w or w/Si/w
pH restraints?
Compatibility issues?
Fragrance / polar & non
- polar oils
Stability
Preservative system?
Mixing requirements
Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
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72
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a cream
What emulsifying system?
Anionic / cationic / non
- ionic
w/o or o/w or w/Si/w
pH restraints?
Compatibility issues?
Stability
Use of hydrocolloid
Preservative system?
Mixing requirements
Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
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73
Moisturising emulsions
Aqueous Phase
Oil phase
Emulsifier system
Rheological modifier
Preservative system
Active ingredients
Fragrance
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74
Moisturising emulsions
Aqueous Phase
Humectant / Moisturiser – CTFA makes no difference but JW
thinks of humectants as hygroscopic materials used as much
to keep the product moist as for moisturising skin.
Humectants
Glycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol
(PEG) & various sugars
Moisturisers
Innumerable – 398 from Acetamide MEA to Zymomonas
Ferment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water!
Actives
Most actives are water-soluble
Preservative system
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75
Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Cognis
Cascading theory
means select a
number of emollients
so that the sensorial
feel is spread
throughout the time
of application.
Cosmetics should feel
good!
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76
Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Degussa
surface tension [mN/m]
PP = pour point, CP = cloud
point
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15
19
2
caring, rich
27
26
25
light,
light, fresh
fresh
24
16
23
22
25
21
22
20
19
1
18
17
2
10
viscosity [mPas]
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100
No. INCI Name
PP (CP) [°C]
1 Cyclopentasiloxane
<-30
2 Diethylhexylcarbonate
<-30
3 Isopropyl Myristate
8
4 Hexyl Laurate
-11 (-2)
5 Isopropyl Palmitate
14
6 Decyl Cocoate
16
7 Ethylhexyl Palmitate
1
-6
8 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
9 Ethylhexyl Stearate
8
10 Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
0 (2)
11 Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
-2 (5)
12 Decyl Oleate
-6 (4)
13 Cetearyl Isononanoate
9 (12)
14 Isocetyl Palmitate
0
15 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
-4
16 Cetyl Dimethione
14 (18)
17 PPG-3 Myristyl Ether
0 (3)
18 Mineral Oil
-19
19 Octyldodecanol
-30 (-20)
20 Avocado Oil
< -30
21 PPG-11 Stearyl Ether
-11 (-1)
22 Dimethicone
0 (13)
23 PPG-14 Butyl Ether
< -30
24 Triisostearin
< -30
25 Cetyl Dimethione
-5
Size of circles:
proportional to spreadability
Color of circles:
polar
non-polar
77
Moisturising emulsions
Oil Phase
Watch out for
Rancidity
Oil phase incompatibilities e.g.
Waxes crystallising
Dimethicone / Mineral oil
Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Does
it stay homogenous when cooled?
Dragging / greasiness / odours
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78
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Anionic
o/w
More commonly associated with cleansing
surfactants
SLS - irritant
TEA-Stearate – OK for cleansers / not leave-on
Potassium cetyl phosphate – forms liquid
crystals, worth attention
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79
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Cationic
w/o
More commonly associated with hair
conditioning
Irritancy concerns
However at least one material supplier is
promoting their use with the following claims:
Cationic O/W emulsifier based on renewable raw
materials with excellent emulsifying properties
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80
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Cationic
Excellent emulsification behaviour
Light emulsions, matte finish
Powdery, smooth and dry skin feel after
application
Low greasiness, stickiness or tack
Inherent moisturisation
Substantive to skin
Extraordinary and unique skin feel
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81
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Non-ionic
o/w or w/o
Selection using HLB system possible
Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated pair
e.g. Sorbitan stearate / Polysorbate
- 20
Alkoxylated alcohols
e.g. Ceteareth
- 20
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But move against ethoxylates!
82
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Recent introductions of sucrose esters and
understanding the benefits of liquid crystal
formation is driving new formulations
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83
Moisturising emulsions
Benefits of liquid crystal formation
Water, fatty acids,
cholesterol,
triglycerides and
ceramides form the
lamellar (layered) gellike lipid system of the
horny layer.
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84
Moisturising emulsions
Non-ionic liquid crystal forming emulsifiers
Cetearyl glucoside
Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivate
Sucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearate
Sorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurate
Cetearyl polyglucoside
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Cetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2
dipolyhydroxystearate
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85
Moisturising emulsions
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86
Moisturising emulsions
Liquid crystals are
states of matter that
exist in between the
solid and the ordinary
liquid phase. The main
characteristic of the
phase is the existence
of partial ordering
(positional and
orientational) like that
of the crystal phase but
the phase has the
ability to flow like a
liquid.
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87
Moisturising emulsions
Oil Phase
Refer to Cognis cascading theory of emollients
Degussa selection chart
Cyclopentasiloxane stops soaping up
Vegetable oils are polar (& popular)
Capric/caprylic triglyceride is good stuff
Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and/or glyceryl
stearate helps stabilise LC structures
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88
Moisturising emulsions
Rheology modifier
Xanthan gum
Minerals – e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / Laponite
Carbomer
Acrylates copolymer
Sclerotium Gum
Mannan
Modified starch
Gum tragacanth
Alginates
Silica
Cellulose derivatives
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89
Moisturising emulsions
•Preservative system
•Affected by other ingredients
•pH
•Market trends
•Active ingredients
•Affected by marketing claims
•Other ingredients
•pH
•Fragrance
•No Fragrance / Perfume / Essential Oils
•Affected by named allergens
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90
Moisturising emulsions: possible formulation
7.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride
2.50% Cetearyl alcohol
5.00% Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil
1.50% Cyclopentasiloxane
0.01% Ceramide
0.10% Tocopherol
Aqua (Water) to 100%
0.08% Disodium EDTA
1.50% Cetearyl polyglucoside (emulsifier)
0.20% Xanthan gum
0.50% Niacinamide
5.00% Glycerin
1.00% Sodium PCa
3.00% Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
2.00% Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract
Preservatives / Fragrance / pH adjusters
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91
DLC Question
A major brand of moisturising lotion lists its
ingredients as
Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinum
liquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl
Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100,
Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance,
Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin,
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium
EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4.
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92
DLC Question
Claims are: Softens and smoothes for radiant skin.
Light, Non
- Greasy Formula.
Dermatologist Tested.
Non
- Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores).
Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin with
immediate surge of active moisture to soothe dryness
without greasy feel.
Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essential
fluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple.
Restores- Works like the essential fluids abundant in
young skin to help restore skin to its natural beauty and
diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
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93
DLC Question
Using your knowledge of
ingredients briefly describe the function of
each ingredient in this product, give your
best guess for the % by weight of the
individual ingredients and in no more than
100 words write a label description of the
properties of this product aimed to sell it to
a consumer.
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94
DLC Question
Aqua
Cetyl Palmitate
Glycerin
Paraffinum liquidum
Petrolatum
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Hydroxystearate
Stearic Acid
Steareth 100
Dimethicone
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Octyldodecyl Myristate
Fragrance
Potassium Hydroxide
DMDM Hydantoin
Iodopropynyl
Butylcarbamate
Tetrasodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Red 4
95
DLC Question
It is your task as head of product development to
reformulate this product in order to make strong
moisturising claims and to avoid using materials
that are no longer perceived as appealing to
consumers. There are no financial restraints on
the material costs.
Finally, list the reformulated product ingredients
in descending order of concentration, show their
approximate % in the new formula and rewrite
the label copy to appeal to the target consumer.
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96
If you get it right!
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97
And if you get it wrong!
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98
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99