No. 1 - Capsule

ISSUE No 1
MAY 2012
(capsule)
CAPSULESHOW.COM
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TWITTER/INSTAGRAM @CAPSULESHOW
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FACEBOOK.COM/CAPSULESHOW
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WEARETHEMARKET.COM
TALKING SHOP WITH
CHRIS GIBBS OF UNION L.A.
Union, the pioneering boutique that opened in New York City in 1989, fueled the invention and
forward motion of American streetwear and has continually set and raised the bar for retail in its
many incarnations. Chris Gibbs, former NYC shop boy, now owner of Union Los Angeles speaks
with Capsule’s Minya Quirk about the good old days, his weirdo past, the rebirth of Union’s L.A.
chapter and the secrets to his success.
MQ: So you worked at Union NYC (RIP) for a while, can you tell me in what capacity, but also, what led to that? I mean, you’re from Canada. What landed you on
Spring Street? And also, were you always into clothes?
CG: I wasn’t really into gear. I moved to New York and was working at a skate shop. I was dating (now wife) Beth back then. She was really tight with Harold Hunter
and all of them. She used to get me free Union/555 Soul/Supreme shit. After hanging out with her for a while I saw this whole other side of the game; models, clubs,
fun shit…not the dirt bag skating shit I did. When Aaron moved from Union to Supreme…Beth got me in at Union.
MQ: Year?
CG: Maybe ‘97? Over time i just kind of had an eye for what would sell and I eventually became the buyer. I literally just bought the shit I personally liked. I guess
that worked ‘cause I was a fan before working there. I still use that technique now. I buy what I like.
MQ: Well you have good taste. How’d that evolve? Are you saying you were NEVER into fashion in your younger years? Or was it an inventiveness that came with
those early streetwear years?
CG: I mean, I was like every kid. I wanted Nikes and shit and I would come to NYC for the summer and stay with my fam and get all the latest shit. But I was never
a “fashion” dude.
MQ: The youth culture today, it’s a totally different climate. With brands like 555 Soul, Supreme, PNB, it’s hard to explain to young people now how different it was
– that people were making this kind of clothing for themselves and their peers for the first time. It wasn’t a big marketing machine like it is now. It was so organic.
CG: In fact, it wasn’t till I moved here in ‘94 that I really got put on. I was into all those brands because they spoke directly to me. The one thing that might have set
me apart was that I was an outsider in New York. I lived in Brooklyn with my fam and they didn’t get me. My friends didn’t really get me either. I was like a mixed
nerd from Canada that loved underground hip hop, hated Biggie and skateboarded everywhere wearing vintage shit. Now, that would be a hipster. Then, I was a
weirdo. I guess I just embraced it and tried to be different.
MQ: You hated Biggie???? What’s wrong with you?!
CG: Biggie to me was like Darth Vader. He was the illest dude but he worked for the dark side. He commercialized hip hop in a way that I despised at the time. Now
I get it all and can just appreciate him for being dope. I still think he was the beginning of the end.
MQ: So where were you going to school and what were some other jobs you had?
CG: Medgar Evers! Then Baruch…This is going to be your weirdest interview ever. A Canadian that moved to Brooklyn to go to Medgar Evers, would skate to
school and hated Biggie.
MQ: I get all the good stuff.
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80 EIGHTH AVE/№ 202 NYC
IS
STYLE
ANY
GOOD?
Fashion commentator
Nick Schonberger
weighs in
Over the past decade, we’ve refined
collective sensibility while managing to
retain a healthy dose of youthful exuberance.
Even when toying with the traditional, we
buck the rules of decorum and wear, gasp,
monk straps without socks. Or, simply don
a fitted cap with suit. Yes, we’ve grown
up from a misguided interest in jerseys as
standard daily attire. But, we’ve never lost a
love for being a bit bold.
Thanks to our good friend the Internet, style
mutates faster than ever these days. However,
certain things remain the same throughout
history —we transfer from periods of
aggressive ornamentation to stripped down
elegance (and back) in a constant yin and
yang cycle. And, again thanks to the Internet,
the connection between prevailing trends has
once again tightened.
That is to say, ideas are happily intermingling
in ways never before imagined.
Liberty florals land on 5-panel caps. Blazers
take tiger stripe camouflage. Pendleton wool
of Native American influence forms the
bodies of varsity jackets.
(continues on back page)
CG: No doubt. (continues on back page)
Photo: Union L.A./Illustrations by Ben Lamb
INTRODUCTIONS
SUMMER
BUCKET LIST
Capsule was started in 2007 to develop a global network of like-minded people that conceptualize, create,
desire and buy the clothes that epitomize a new utopian vision of forward progress. Artisans, strategists,
devotees and style leaders converge on Capsule to share this vision and bring it to life. When you come to
Capsule, you know you’re In Good Company.
Lawrence Schlossman
Nikky Chicanot
SAMI RAHMAN @OnceMusic
Creative Marketing & Special Events Manager for Thompson Hotel LES, NYC
Lives in: Tribeca NYC
What do you love about Capsule? The creativity is an inspiration
Favorite City to Visit: London
Favorite Book: Damn Good Advice by George Lois
Favorite Hotel: Thompson LES and Thompson Belgraves
Summer Plans: Visit my mum in India and Radio Head show
Coveted Item: Vintage fender amp from 1966
AISHA SPEIRS
Bureau Chief Americas at Monocle
Lives in: West Village, NYC
What do you love about Capsule? Bumping into brands and buyers that we know alongside new ones.
Favorite Restaurant: Le Cabanon, Cap d’ail. Simple, home-cooked food served up under trees
lit by fairy lights on a small cliff above the Mediterranean
Favorite Book: Invisible Cities by Italo Calvino.
Summer Plans: Regular trip to my family in the South of France and time with the other
half’s fam in Vermont.
Favorite Possession: My passports
KENYAN PARIS LEWIS @fakebykenyan
Prop Master
Lives in: Accord, New York
Personal Style: At any given moment I’ll rock a 40’s, 50’s or 70’s Dad look
What do you love about Capsule? The love that people share for Design & Fashion
Favorite City to Visit: Springfield, Ohio
Favorite Thing You Own: 1950 5 Window 3100 Chevy Pickup
Summer Plans: Sending time with my gals antiquing and hitting the swimming holes
KAZUMI SENSHU @peikazu
Designer, Thousands of Autumn
Lives in: Kamakura, Japan
What do you love about Capsule? Pre furnished including hangers and free breakfast!
Favorite Place to Visit: New Mexico
Favorite Restaurant: Otafuku in Torrance, CA
Favorite Hotel: Hazu (Okumikawa in Japan)
Favorite Possession: Homemade Hawaiian Quilt
Favorite Book: Anne of Green Gables
LUCAS BONNICHON @cuisse2gre
Founder of a French brand, Cuisse de Grenouille
Lives in: Paris, near Colette
Personal Style: Surf is my way of life
Mantra: DO IT!
What do you love about Capsule? This is the most fashionable and human show!
Favorite City to Visit: Lisboa : you can surf, work, meet, discover things, have party the same day
Favorite Restaurant: Le George, at Beaubourg in Paris
Favorite Hotel: Surfer’s Inn in Kuta LOMBOCK
Style Icon: Owen Wilson
Special Summer Plans: A Boat Surf Trip In Maldives!
SIMON HOGEMAN @tresbienshop
Co-owner/Buyer at Très Bien
Lives in: Malmö, Sweden, Scandinavia
Personal Style: Schizophrenic probably comes close to describing it, haha!
Favorite City: I like many cities but New York is always a favorite, no doubt
Favorite Restaurant: Belle Epoque in Malmö!
Coveted Item: For the upcoming fall, anything from the Marni collection
(which of course will be available at tresbienshop.com.)
Favorite Possession: Season ticket to Malmö FF’s home ground
(the greatest football team in the world!)
What do you love about Capsule? The food:-)
LAWRENCE SCHLOSSMAN @sartoriallyinc
Talks about men’s clothing on the internet
Lives in: Hoboken, NJ which is embarrassing so let’s say NYC
Personal Style: Refined casual
Style Advice: Wear whatever the hell you want to
Favorite City: Florence
Favorite Restaurant: Extra Virgin
Favorite Book: Flannery O’Connor’s collected short stories
Favorite Possession: Father’s vintage Heuer watch
What do you love about Capsule? You guys find the best brands before anyone else
Summer Plans: Outdoor aggressive cocktailing
NIKKY CHICANOT @lashmagazine
Founder and Editor in chief of Lash Magazine, lashmagazine.com
Lives: Between Paris and New York
Personal Style: Androgynous gothic with a twist of couture
Favorite Book: Less than Zero, Bret Easton Ellis
Favorite Hotel: Plaza Athenée in Paris and The Standard in New York
What do you love about Capsule? The mix between street/everyday fashion and high end goods
JEN MANKINS @birdbrooklyn
Owner and Buyer of Bird
Lives in: Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
Style Mantra: More color!
Favorite Book: The Corrections, Jonathan Franzen
Favorite Hotel: Home Hotel in Buenos Aires
Summer Plans: Driving tour of Scandinavia in July
What do you love about Capsule? It brings together the best group of young, developing designers
CAMILLE VINCENT @fshopperparis
Stylist for L’Express Style and les Echos Serie Limité, Fashion Consultant for mondefile.com and
thefabshoes.fr & Personal Shopper, fashionshopperparis.com
Lives in: Paris
Personal Style: Glamour & Chic
Style Mantra: Better overdressed than underdressed
What do you love about Capsule? The concentration of trendy and avant-garde brands and the
new designers.
Favorite City to Visit: Los Angeles
Favorite Restaurant: Le Schmuck in the 6ème in Paris
Favorite Hotel: Palais Rhoul & Spa in Marrakech
Style Icon: Vanessa Paradis for her bohemian look, Diana Vreeland for elegant eccentricity,
and Scarlett Johansson for the glamour
Sami Rahman
Aisha Speirs
Surf.
Be trill.
Get buck.
Find wifey.
Roast a goat.
Get corn rows.
Grow tomatoes.
Buy more underwear.
Go fishing in a clean lake.
Wear boat shoes on a boat.
Throw a crab and scrimp boil.
Learn the true meaning of love.
Smoke a doobie with Danny Brown.
Go camping with #menswear dudes.
Learn a word that’s cooler than doobie.
Throw a sandwich across the room and yell YOLO*!
Have my YOLO lifestyle sponsored by a beer company.
Convince the youths of America to just stop it with dubstep.
Answer dumb questions with HELL YEAH, FUCKIN’ RIGHT.
Enjoy an evening at Pumps, Bushwick’s premier gentleman’s club.
Go to an A$AP Rocky show and not get punched in the eye this time.
Lucas Bonnichon
Simon Hogeman
Kenyan Lewis
Kazumi Senshu
MARC BEAUGÉ
Journalist, style writer, launching a brand, Larose
Lives in: Paris
Personal Style: A pair of used APC jeans with something lame
Style Mantra: If people turn to look at you in the street, you are not well dressed
Favorite City: Scopello, Sicilia
Favorite Restaurant: Le Bascou, Rue Réaumur, Paris
Favorite Book: Les Particules Elémentaires, Houellebecq
Favorite Hotel: Not Chateau Marmont
Favorite Gadget: An electric razor for cashmere sweaters, very pleasurable
What do you love about Capsule? The beards!
With summer months in limited
supply it’s best to make a list of all
you hope to do. Here, our own
James Harris shares his plans.
*YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE
Jen Mankins
Camille Vincent
Bruce Pask
Marc Beaugé
BRUCE PASK @brucepask
Men’s Fashion Director of T Magazine: The New York Times Style Magazine
and a menswear stylist/fashion editor
Lives in: The East Village, been there for years, and years…and years.
Style Advice: Be yourself, but do make an effort
Favorite Restaurant: I had pretty much the most perfect dining experience
ever at Radio in Copenhagen recently.
Favorite Hotel: Amansara in Siem Reap, Cambodia was unforgettable.
Style Icon: I’m always impressed by a really well put together stranger.
Favorite Possession: My little cottage at the beach
Summer Plans: Spending as much time as possible at the aforementioned cottage.
POSTCARD FROM
R AMBLERS BONE
A spring/summer road trip is the perfect plan for expanding
one’s personal experience and enjoying nature at its most
exciting; and photographers Mikail Kennedy and Sean Sullivan
are on a monthlong journey across the American West
sponsored by Wolverine, which they call Ramblers Bone.
They sent us this postcard!
The road from Zion to Moab in Utah is the edge of the world, we kept seeing signs for Hell’s Backbone miles
and miles out, then we rode it. Straight up the side of the mountain till you’re riding the spine, just you the
road and the wind whipping across the desert to drop you down below. Samuel Johnson said: “The use of
traveling is to regulate the imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as
they are.” Well I’ve seen the road meet the sky and keep going. –Mikail and Sean
For more info check out ramblersbone.com
Photo Credit: Mikael Kennedy
In good company
In fantastic spaces!
The goal of Capsule is to provide a forum for the best brands in the world to collectively
present product to the very top tier of retailer and the fashion press corps. Beyond that,
we pride ourselves on providing a fantastic atmosphere; whether an indescribable vibe, a
neighborhood that inspires, or a building that’s had myriad previous lives, Capsule is always
special. It’s with great pride that we present some new venues for S/S 2013:
Cite de la Mode
34 Quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris
Men’s June 29-July 1
Women’s September 28-30
Basketball City
Pier 36 at South St New York, NY
(between Clinton & Montgomery)
Men’s July 23&24
Women’s September 18-20
We’re just some Americans in Paris bringing some knockout clothes
to the most exciting fashion week in the world. Well, that’s what we’ve
always thought. But when the city had plans for building a centralized
hub of fashion commerce and buzz, and invited yours truly to partner
with them in venue and spirit, we couldn’t help feeling a little bit
flattered and fancy. Cite de la Mode has already been home to the
Lanvin showroom and some super high profile runway shows for a
few seasons, it’s got (like our NYC venue) sick river views and brand
new finishings, plus a lineup of special events, clubs and exhibitions
planned with the likes of Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons, Silencio,
Le Baron, Le Pompon and more…whoa. In the 13th arrondisement, just
a hop skip from le Marais. We’re so excited.
When we stumbled upon 75,000 square feet of blank canvas,
brand new, temperature controlled, kitted out space on our fair
isle of Manhattan, well, we were pleased to say the least. Beautiful
bathrooms, a mezzanine from which to overlook the show floor
and built in lighting options galore would be enough. But plop the
whole thing down on the Lower East Side, throw open the doors for
direct East River access and finish everything with a panorama that
includes the majestic bridges plus the Statue of Liberty and you’ve
got the spot for what promises to be our most amazing New York
show ever.
EXPLORE PARIS!
Our new neighborhood, the 13th Arrondissement, has plenty of stuff to do. One
of the highlights is La Butte aux Cailles – a bit of Paris that’s not on the average
itinerary. The emergingly hip neighborhood of La Butte aux Cailles offers a
glimpse into old Paris. Narrow cobblestone lanes lined with local craftspeople,
exquisite art deco architecture and a late night bar scene make this corner of the
13th a quaint place to visit.
EXPLORE THE LOWER EAST SIDE!
Capsule’s moving back to the LES and we cant wait to get back to that historic
district. The show is just a quick walk to Essex Street Market, an indoor
market place featuring artisanal food and craftsmen which began in 1940 as
part an effort by Mayor Fiorello H. LaGuardia to find a new place for pushcarts
and street vendors to do business off the crowded streets of the area. Take a
look inside this historic location.
Postbahnhof
Straße der Pariser Kommune 8
10243 Berlin
Men’s & Women’s July 5&6
To us, Berlin is a city so teeming with an unmatched combo of history
and raw, new energy it makes sense for Capsule to move into one of
the city’s most exciting venues. Postbhanhof was formerly (1842) a
train terminal and then later, devoted to the postal system. It boasts the
historical beauty that modern structures lack – think big gothic windows
and massive halls both at street level and above, and a completely
refurbished interior which means smooth sailing from a production
standpoint. A convenient location, bananas views and space to breathe.
We can’t wait!
EXPLORE BERLIN!
Berlin is known for its flea market scene and trendy markets pop up all over the city
in the summertime. The Antikmarkt Am Ostbahnhof is located quite close to the
Postbahnhof and is worth checking out. Old postcards, stamps, coins, antique jewelry,
East German artifacts, and antique house wares is a lot of what you’ll find there.
Open Sundays.
The Venetian 3rd Fl Ballroom
3355 Las Vegas Blvd South
Las Vegas, NV
Men’s & Women’s
August 20&21
Were you there for our second Las Vegas show? When
we were in a (relatively) tiny ballroom and the place was
packed with editors, cool kids and all the best buyers?
That was a goodie. Lucky for all of us, and just to keep you
on your toes, we’re headed back to the third floor of the
Venetian ballrooms, to our cozy nest, but this time as you
may have guessed, we’ve got the whole floor. Right off the
Grand Canal Shoppes. You know, where the mime is. Follow
the Rococo carpet and fly with us. It’s gonna be a fantastic
summer.
EXPLORE VEGAS!
While Las Vegas is not known for its sightseeing and cultural
opportunities, we’ve found that the best way to see it all is from the
air. Take a hot air balloon ride and get a glimpse of Sin City from
1000 feet up. There’s no telling what you’ll see since the balloon flies
with the prevailing winds. The flight patterns and landing sites vary
due to the changing wind directions. And,when you’re back on the
ground you’ll enjoy a champagne toast.
THE WORLD IS YOUR
VENDING MACHINE
Catching up with Arnaud Delecolle, of The New York Art Department
Urban beekeeping can be an attractive
pastime or microbusiness, and while it can
be dangerous, the rewards are sweet. When
handling bees, it’s always wise to “Suit up.
And know the signs of anaphylaxis,” Whitney
warns. Whitney’s bees produced several
dozen pounds of honey last season, which she
packaged into small jars as gifts for friends,
and uses in a wide range of recipes. One of
her favorites? The perfect summer daiquiri,
which can be achieved by blending rum,
some honey, some fresh lime and
grapefruit, and ice.
Succulent plants are water-retaining plants adapted to arid climates or soil conditions.
Because of this, these chubby little shrubs make great office plants because they store
water in their leaves, stems, and also in roots, and therefore need very little attention.
They also add a welcome bit of life and greenery to what can sometimes be an
otherwise drab environment.
We selected over 100 plants and planted them in a cedar wood frame with a galvanized
steel mesh overlay and a waterproof backing board that was built especially for the
purpose of creating a wall-hanging garden. We are waiting patiently as the plants take
6-8 weeks to root in their new home. By June, when Capsule Paris kicks off, the plants
should be established enough for us to be able to hang the frame.
For those of you who would like to try this at home, we recommend selecting a wide variety of
succulent plants, of varying shapes, sizes and colors, in order to create a dramatic impression.
TO FINISH FIRST
YOU MUST FIRST FINISH
Arnauld Delecolle built his first empire, Alife, with his partner Rob Cristofaro and after years of success the gentlemen are onto the next one. Their new venture,
The New York Art Department is a small creative studio that does branding consultancy for third parties and releases original content and works by the artists
they represent.
Their most well known creation to date is titled The Art Machine, a vending machine that sells small pieces by a range of 50 artists costing anything from $5 to
the thousands. It was on display at The Hole gallery on Bowery for the majority of its life, a space that the NYAD has a longstanding relationship with. Delecolle
and Cristofaro have been friends with The Hole owner, Kathy Grayson for over a decade and the gentlemen are now acting as creative directors for the retail
space that functions to support her gallery.
David Einsiedler of Hamburg-based furniture house PLY shows us
how to re-finish an Eames Chair
The Hole Shop features works hand-chosen by Delecolle and his partner, based on a criteria of “goodness” that basically amasses to a collection of objects
the men find unique, interesting and worthy of appreciation. The shop not only exists as a source of profit and an event space, it is also intended to be a site for
cultural conversation that celebrates spontaneity and creativity outside the confines of a corporate structure.
The New York Art Department is planning a series of not-to-be-missed summer events, including its grand opening and first curated show in June. In July the
shop will host a book signing with Montreal pornographic filmmaker, Bruce La Bruce, as well as release a series of products with club owner and all-around
playboy, Andrei Saraiva of Le Baron. We caught up with Arnaud Delecolle to find out what the entrepreneur is up to in the midst of his new project.
Capsule: Will there be gory, pornographic zombies at the Bruce la Bruce book signing?
Arnauld Delecolle: YEAH – Naked zombies, blood spattering all in the gallery. But you’ll have to ask Kathy more about that.
C: The Art Machine was a favorite piece at The Hole for a long time–if you could buy one thing out of a vending machine, all logistics aside, what would it be?
AD: You mean like the world is my vending machine?
C: Totally.
AD: Small house by the beach in New York. I would even go South to Jersey Shore. I’m down with the East Coast. Maybe Long Island? Or Maine and New
Hampshire—beautiful beaches, its just insane. Stuff that I’ve only seen in movies, New England beach house republican-old-money type stuff.
C: What are you tired of seeing in the art world?
AD: The Hole is one of the few places that there is some creative expression that can happen without the confines of total corporate sponsorship. I think
corporate sponsorship is wonderful and it makes a lot of things happen and I’m grateful for it. But some art has just become so limited. Especially in the fashion
world. Rob and I are spontaneous people and the NYAD is a place for spontaneous creative discussion and products and ideas. Trying to add some interesting
perspectives to a conversation that could easily get stale.
C: What’s on your summer bucket list?
AD: Just took one thing off my bucket list and shaved half my face. Hashtag bucket list. [laughs]
SUMMER
STYLE
Now that the weather’s getting a bit warmer, I’m obsessed
with obnoxious short sleeve shirts. We’ve seen them all
over the European catwalks of late, but my favourites are
loud Hawaiian versions like Leonardo DiCaprio wore in
Romeo and Juliet. I’m pretty sure it’s all I’m going to be
wearing this summer, and no doubt I’ll be doing the same
thing next year, too. Real men go floral.
Isaac Hindin-Miller, Menswear Blogger
I hope that for Spring 2013 we’ll see a trickle-up trend of
designer sunglass brands using colorful mirrored lenses.
The market seems ready for the redefinition of the Oakley
Frogger. I just had polarized gold Oakley lenses put into
my black Persol frames, because the only other option
was those cheap street vendor styles.
Micah Johnson, Stylist
Romeo and Juliet 1996
Over at Capsule headquarters, the spirit of spring
has taken root in our offices, and we’ve decided to
exercise our green thumbs by planting a hanging
succulent garden.
DO YOU
READ ME?!
Jessica Reitz of Berlin’s coolest curated
magazine and bookshop, Do You Read Me?!
recommends the perfect summer reads.
Shop the store at Capsule Berlin!
BOOKS
Berlin, Freunde von Freunden
Future Beauty, Akiko Fukai
Chanel, Her Life, Justine Picadie
MAGAZINES
Endless
Inventory
There’s nothing like grilling in the summer,
and we’ve partnered with Sailor Jerry to whip
up some amazing barbecue and refreshing
cocktails at Capsule Berlin. Grab a grill and a
glass and try these recipes at home!
Pulled Pork Butt
Ingredients:
120ml orange juice
60ml lime juice
60-80ml Sailor Jerry Spiced
1 medium white onion, chopped
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons ancho chili powder
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 bay leaf whole
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 pork butt
Instructions:
1. Combine first 11 ingredients
in a bowl and stir.
2. Place pork roast in a slow
cooker and pour marinade
over it.
3. Cook over low heat 4-5 hours,
turning every 45 minutes to an
hour, until it falls apart.
4. Serve on a bun with coleslaw
and pickles on the side.
Backyard Tea
Ingredients:
2 parts Sailor Jerry Spiced
1 part iced tea
2 parts lemonade
David posing with his refurbished Eames Chair and shoe rack
Walking through New York City carrying a
bunch of bees with you is a sight that even
jaded New Yorkers don’t see every day. But
Whitney Fuller, Sales Manager of the Ace
Hotel NY raises the fuzzy insects on the roof
of the hotel and has had some pretty funny
moments transporting her charges. “One day
I was in Union Square waiting for a friend to
help me carry my newest package of bees. I
got approached by, like, 60 people, the most
perfect cross section of New Yorkers: a mom
with her son in a superhero mask who asked
a hundred questions – he wasn’t afraid at all;
this guy who told me stories about the wild
hives in the banyan trees he used to climb as
a kid in the Caribbean; hipsters with Leicas;
an unnaturally tanned gentleman with a gold
necklace on Bluetooth who had probably left
the city once in his life – he wanted to know
how to start a hive. Cops. The cops were the
best,” she laughs.
CAPSULE
GOES GREEN
Photo Credit: Mordechai Rubinstein
HONEY
CHILD
R
Instructions:
Add all ingredients to an icefilled, gallon jug, & add a
sliced lemon.
I like combining design classics from Eames, Jacobsen or Saarinen with the rough patina of industrial objects. We look for original industrial stuff to use in
other contexts as an ´unestablished furniture´. For example at the moment we are restoring shoe-racks from a Czech shoe factory. The racks were originally
used for gluing the shoes on the top, and then they were put inside for drying. Combining well-known forms with unknown furniture, smooth surfaces with
rough ones, simply nice objects and objects with a defined use, objects like this with, for example, an old black fiberglas dining chair from Eames, makes me
really happy.
REFURBISHING AN EAMES CHAIR
1. Remove the old leather or fabric
2. Remove the foam with something like nitro
3. Dismount the legs
4. Fill the original holes in the seat with a black epoxy glue
5. Clean the legs by sandblasting
6. Re-paint the legs
7. If necessary, renew the shock mounts under the seats
8. Re-mount the legs
PLY was created in 2011 to outfit companies with special and vintage furniture.
Ply.de See the finished rack and other PLY finds at Capsule Berlin
WHAT’S
YOUR TYPE?
Every designer has a favorite type­face. Going beyond
conveying information, fonts help to express taste,
style, opinion, and attitude. The typeface a designer
uses — and how he has manipulated it — reveals the
personality and aesthetic of the designer himself. A
new series of books from Gingko Press, I Love Type
explores some of the most popular fonts right now –
Futura, Avant Garde, Bodoni and DIN — examining
the history, and appeal of these type-faces, as well
as how the same font can impact the impression can
be altered to create different moods and generate an
entirely original effect.
BPMW
80 8TH AVE/No 202
NEW YORK, NY 10011
IS
STYLE
ANY
GOOD?
(cont.)
TALKING SHOP WITH
CHRIS GIBBS OF UNION L.A.
(cont.)
MQ: Ok so you were living with family (what family) in what part of Brooklyn?
CG: My dad is the youngest of 10. An immigrant from Barbados. Everyone else left Barbados and moved to Brooklyn
Photo Credit: Shaniqwa Jarvis
except him. He moved to Canada. I would spend summers here and go to summer school at Pratt. When I graduated from
high school, I moved in with my auntie and her daughter in the Clinton Hill co-ops. Beth used to live on Clinton and
Myrtle. We met on the Hoyt-Schermerhorn subway platform, where I kicked my game!!!
MQ: Ok, so you were in at Union. Describe the vibe, the people, the everyday of it. Then a little about what you wanted to
do once you got the buyer position.
CG: Shit. It was one of the easiest gigs on Earth. At the time we sold like 80% of our shit to Japanese students and tourists.
They were the only ones that really got it. The rest we sold to the NYC tastemakers (djs, socialites, designers, all around
the coolest heads in the city). So I met so many amazing people…and everyone would kind of meet up and just hang out
and talk shit. It was like the barbershop but for creative people and half the time I was there alone…and it was quiet too…
not like the big business this has all become. We had a bench out front where I would either read books for like 5 hours
a day on or sleep. Then some Japanese kid would come in. Buy up half the store and that was our day. Becoming buyer
was more gradual. It just kind of came to be over time. Again, I would just start ordering the shit I wanted. I was a weirdo
so at the time you could find me wearing a like a vintage suit with a torn up sweater…then I would remix that shit with
the hottest kicks in the game and a throw back, so heads couldn’t front! I would find brands that I liked personally, so I
wouldn’t have to pay full price.
MQ: So tell me about the dissolving of the NYC shop, the relocation to LA – how did you land the keys to the castle?
CG: I moved to LA (following Beth) like 8 years ago. I didn’t
immediately come to Union out here. In fact I barely knew Eddie (Cruz). The two stores were kind of separate.
It wasn’t really until Supreme opened out here that I came back to Union. When I started back at Union then…it
was really the first time the two stores (NYC and LA) were connected. I would share my buys with NYC. The
main reason that the NYC store closed is not totally known to me…if I had to guess I would say it’s related to
the same reason I got the keys out here. Streetwear, for lack of a better term, was created by and sold at Union
(through the trifecta of James Jebbia, Mary Ann Fusco and Eddie Cruz) in my humble opinion. But it blew up,
went commercial and the two Unions couldn’t compete with the masses…I mean Macy’s was now carrying the
type of shit we enjoyed exclusives on for so long. Eddie (my boss at the time) and I differed on how to move
forward. I wanted to go more high-end eclectic and he wanted to go more streetwear. We finally just came to an
agreement to let me buy him out and do my thing…it worked out.
MQ: Can you talk about some of the brands you bought for the store in NYC?
CG: We broke Rogan Denim. Rogan used to hand deliver the stuff to me. We broke Adidas Originals, believe
it or not. PRPS denim, all the OG streetwear lines: 10 Deep, Social Studies, Elements of Style, Snafu, Ssur etc.
Duffer UK, Maharishi, Mackintosh…we used to sell Mackintosh way back in the day, Ken Sport mix tapes and
shit…plus we used to parallel buy the ill kicks and shit from Japan. This was before Nike figured out there was
money to be made with limited edition sneakers here in the US.
MQ: Break down the product mix now at your Union; what you buy, what’s selling and why…
CG: We have a special relationship with Visvim. It’s our top brand and we have kind of grown together. It’s not
something we planned, it just happened. They best represent the kind of stuff that does well for us – high design,
high quality updated classics made by one of the best designers of our time. We have about 70% Japanese
product. My feeling is, the best shit is coming from them. They took our streetwear and made it better. I feel like although the prices are high, they make sense for
what you’re getting. And it’s still cheaper than many European goods. But we look everywhere…one of our favorite brands is this line called TEN C, they’re out of
Italy. Another great seller is a local guy, Tantum. He was/is a customer who was inspired by what we do and started his own thing. Best part is, it’s a fair price point.
We are killing it with his stuff. He has become a top seller literally overnight!
MQ: So you’ve successfully built Union 2.0 – your Union. I think all eyes are on you (they should be) for what’s at the forefront of cool guy style. How you have
done it and what are your secrets to success?
CG: Well…I like to think it was more of a progression and less of a change. My Union was inherited and I learned from the best and still try to keep that spirit. We
are built for and by the golden era of hip hop; as we grow up our styles mature but the foundation of rebellion, creativity, diversity and fun that represents that golden
era is still here when you look at version 2.0 For the most part, as I have been saying…I wanted to buy what I was into and I wasn’t into graphic tees, fitted hats and
sneakers anymore. I mean I will probably always be a sneaker head, but my taste was diversifying too. I wanted something new. I wanted quality, style, design and
a sprinkle of fashion. Some shit that was fresh and unique but still wearable and not costumey. So I started getting really surgical with the edit. In terms of secrets
to my success, there are maybe a couple. 1. The main thing is that I always buy with the end user, the customer in mind. That’s big. We are not conceptual…and
although that might not be great for press, the press ain’t shopping here. 2. Hard work…sounds blazey but I ran this store like it was mine, even when it wasn’t. I took
pride in every aspect (and still do). 3. Lastly, passion. We are all really into what we do and people pick up on it and respect it. We are more than happy to share why
we have a $1200 boot in here and what makes it special. If that’s not your thing…cool we are never condescending. Oh one more thing: we still remember our roots.
Contrary to popular belief, we still have inexpensive options here. We still want a young kid, new in the game to be able to come here and be down.
We’ve come along way from all-over print
hoodies.
Once firm distinctions in urban tribal dress
are fading. In part, it is because the surface
knowledge passed through Tumblr and
wordpress sites ignores any real cultural
connotation. We learn the visual markers
of styles, rather than the values that backed
their original conceptions. Old timers may
thumb their noses at new ideas, but there are
positives.
We actually have forged something of a
generational identity.
Wait, what? Yes, in an era where we so
many children live off older folks nostalgic
musings, an odd mix-matched aesthetic has
grown from the ashes of “streetwear.” The
uniform has become a sort of anti-uniform,
with a prevailing YOLO attitude flashing a
middle finger at conventions. Once it was
considered edgy to wear chucks with a suit.
Now, we don’t blink at brogues with shorts.
(Though, sometimes, we might roll our eyes).
Chosen garments flow in and out of rotation
from a broad sweep of influences. The pieces
come together through universal obsession
with pattern. Even hiking shoes are covered
in leopard. It’s really quite remarkable.
We are at the apex of a tumultuous decade.
Culture at large has faced obvious traumas,
and these have lead to characteristic
retrenchment in style. But, we’ve also tackled
(as much as possible) the wilds of new media.
Our current style reflects a leaning forward
while looking backward. It also shows that
while our footing might be unsure, the power
of our stride hasn’t diminished.
Few people embody the current zeitgeist like
one of my fellow co-workers. His zest for
life is matched by a passion for playful dress.
Unafraid he pulls from any and all possible
looks. In fairness, he often borders on the
ridiculous. Yet, at his best, he mixes elements
from Savile Row to skate with deft hand.
Cultural references points connect naturally;
patterns that should never find space together
somehow mingle in chorus of “yes, I can do
whatever the fuck I want.”
Is style today good?
Who knows. And, who cares. There is, most
importantly, a true sense of fun.
You can buy classic, but classics change. I
didn’t come up with the phrase (in fact it is
a paraphrased line from the Britcom Peep
Show), but it fits. Classic is no longer static. It
fluctuates with taste. Breaking hierarchical
traditions, we’re notably understanding
classic as a plural and taking the better bits
from everywhere.