A Modern Heirloom

A Modern Heirloom
Created by Susan Fears
Sewing with the 8 Series
A simple blouse becomes a designer blouse
with the clever additional of heirloom sewing
details.
The BERNINA 8 Series Sewing Machines
make adding heirloom touches to your projects quick, easy and fun. Whether you are
creating a sophisticated blouse for an adult
or a special occasion dress for a child, the
intuitive features on BERNINA 8 Series
Sewing Machines allow you to achieve
success on even the most delicate fabrics.
Supplies
Machine & Accessories
• BERNINA 820 Sewing Machine
• BERNINA Serger
• BERNINA Pintuck Foot #32
• BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10C
• BERNINA Clear Embroidery Foot #39C
• BERNINA Clear Embroidery Foot #39
• Button Sew-On Foot #18
• 8-series Cording Device
Blouse Pattern & Fabric
• Short Sleeve Fitted Blouse Pattern of choice;
darts are okay
• Linen fabric - quantity according to pattern
• Blouse notions selected according to pattern
Notions for Embellishment
• Double needle (2.0/80)
• Wing needle, size100
• Topstitch needle, size100
• 60 wt cotton thread, Ecru
• 12 wt cotton thread, Ecru
• DMC Perle Cotton size 8, Neutral color
• Aqua Mesh Stabilizer
• Aqua Film Stabilizer
• Best Press Starch Alternative
• OESD LightWeight Tear-Away Stabilizer
• Appliqué Scissors
Visit www.berninausa.com for additional projects and information.
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The Pattern
•
Select a Short Sleeve Fitted Blouse pattern; darts
are ok.
•
One option would be the Tailored Shirt pattern
from the BERNINA My Label 3D Pattern Software
with modifications:
◊ Short Sleeve
◊ Added Ruffle 3” x 30” for an 18” center front
length
◊ Omit the sleeve placket and cuff from the My
Label shirt
•
Select linen fabric and notions according to pattern.
•
For units with heavy decorative work, especially
pintucks, cut a block of fabric. After the embellishments, cut the actual sleeve pattern. Apply this
general rule to any pieces where the stitching may
affect the cut width (and fit) of the pattern.
•
Serge the edges of the blouse pieces with a threethread overlock stitch.
•
Treat the fabric with Best Press to prepare for
decorative wing needle and double needle effects.
•
Thread the machine with 60wt cotton embroidery
thread top and bobbin. Activate manual threading
for the 8-series machines.
•
Select Stitch #701 and adjust the SW=
4.1 and SL=3.05.
•
Stitch 2 rows approximately ½” apart.
•
Select Stitch #6 (Triple Straight stitch) using the
default settings and stitch in the middle of the previous stitches and then on both sides (for a total of
3 rows). Use Clear Embroidery Foot #39 or Clear
Foot #34 (5mm style foot).
•
Sew this pattern on both front blouse pieces.
Embellishing the Blouse Front
•
Select an area between the center front and the
fitting darts for vertical wing needle work.
•
Install the Wing Needle, size 100, and set the
security program accordingly.
•
Attach Clear Embroidery Foot #39C.
Tip: For sewing long rows of stitches, use the
Start/Stop button rather than the Foot Control and
set the speed of the machine to a comfortable
speed.
Manual Threading
©2010 BERNINA of America, Inc.
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Decorative Stitchwork on Sleeves
•
Note: It is best to work with a block of fabric when
using the double needle as it causes the fabric to
draw in and may decrease the width of the sleeve
needed for wearing comfort.
•
Set the machine up for double needle sewing with
a 2.0 double needle, 60 weight thread (top and
bobbin) and set the security program accordingly.
•
Set up a personal
program and fill with
stitches for project.
With the 8-series you
can name them per
project.
•
Identify the center of
the sleeve fabric block
and sew 4 columns of
corded pintucks about
1” apart. Don’t forget
to mirror image the
pattern for the second
sleeve.
8 Series Cording Device
•
To set up for corded pintucks, attach the cording
device to the machine with the provided screw.
Insert a soft cord, such as DMC Perle Cotton Size
#8 in a color that will not show through the fabric,
unless shaded corded pintucks is desired.
•
Select Stitch #723 and be sure the double needle
limitation is set. Set the stitch width to 6.6 and the
stitch length to 2.7. Stitch in between 2 of the pintuck channels using the Clear Embroidery Foot
#39C.
•
Select Stitch #324 and stitch in the other 2 pintuck
channels.
•
Select the triple straight stitch #6, install the Wing
Needle and set the security program.
•
With Pintuck Foot #32, guide the stitched pintuck
in the second to the last groove and add the Wing
Needle Work.
•
If additional stabilizer is required, press 2 sheets of
Aqua Film until they are crisp. Use a medium heat
iron, press cloth and no steam. Cut into strips to
support the decorative stitches such as #723 and
#324.
See Stitch Chart on next page.
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•
The Stitches from side to side are:
Stitch
Foot
Needle
Thread
Other Notes
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
1
32
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
324
39C
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Corded Pintuck
Default settings
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Default settings
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
1
32
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
723
39C
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
1
32
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
324
39C
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
1
32
Double Needle 2.0
60 wt cotton
6
32
Wing 100
60 wt cotton
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Corded Pintuck
Default settings
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Stitch Length=2.7
Stitch Width = 6.6
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Corded Pintuck
Default settings
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Default settings
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Corded Pintuck
Default settings
Let groove of foot ride on adjacent pintuck for
parallel stitching
Ruffled Front Edge
Chloe Hem
• Press ½” seam allowance on one long side.
•
•
Move the Needle Position 1 to the left of center
and attach Edgestitch Foot #10C.
•
Guide the folded edge to the blade and stitch the
narrow zig-zag.
Set machine for Stitch #2, with a Stitch Length of
0.85 and Stitch Width of 1.5.
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•
Trim close to the stitching using appliqué scissors.
•
Repeat for the short sides.
•
3 sides will be finished, the other will sew into the
center front seam.
Wing Needle Combination
•
Leave the Aqua Mesh stabilizer to provide stabilization for the combination.
•
Install the wing needle, size 100, and set the security program accordingly.
•
Attach Clear Embroidery Foot #39C.
•
Thread the machine with 60wt cotton embroidery
thread top and bobbin.
•
Open the Combi-Mode and add stitches #711 and
#32.
•
Adjust stitch #711 to stitch length =5.2 and stitch
width =3.05.
•
Adjust Stitch #32 to a stitch length of 2.
•
Stitch on the ruffle close to the decorative edge.
•
Wash out the stabilizer and press.
Off the Edge Stitches
•
Place 2 layers of Aqua Mesh stabilizer under the
fabric.
•
Insert a 100 Topstitch needle and thread needle
and bobbin with 12 wt cotton thread.
•
Attach Clear Embroidery Foot #39C to the machine and select stitch #631.
•
Sew the stitch so that part of the stitch falls onto
the fabric and the rest of the stitch falls onto the
Aqua Mesh stabilizer.
Assembly
•
•
Once the decorative work is completed, finish
putting the top together.
•
Use the serger to quickly finish the inside or use
French seams.
•
Use the BERNINA Dual Feed for even stitched
seams and hems if necessary.
•
All hems are folded up and stitched with a triple
straight stitch (#6) and the wing needle.
•
Use the buttonhole features to customize the buttonhole; adjust the buttonhole slit width, buttonhole
length and buttonhole width. Use Foot #3A to ensure all buttonholes are the same size.
•
Use the Button Sew-On Foot #18 to attach buttons
easily and securely.
•
Enjoy!
Stitch around all 3 finished edges.
©2010 BERNINA of America, Inc.
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