KITPLANES FOR AFRICA AIRCRAFT WING CONSTRUCTION

Kitplanes For Africa (Pty) Ltd
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
WING
APPENDIX AJ
KITPLANES FOR AFRICA
AMO: M660
AIRCRAFT
WING CONSTRUCTION
MANUAL
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NOTE:
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
WING
Please read the General Manual before proceeding.
Please read through the entire Wing Construction Manual before proceeding.
CONTENTS
PART 1
GENERAL PREPARATION
W5
PART 2
TRESTLE SET UP
W6
PART 3
SPAR PREPARATION
W7
MARKING RIB POSITION ON SPAR
EPOXYING OF THE RIBS INTO POSITION.
PART 4
INSTALLATION OF BOTTOM RIB SUPPORT ANGLE
W12
TRAILING EDGE
DIAGONAL WING BRACES
PART 5
PITOT TUBE
TURNING OF WING
W18
PART 6
INSTALLATION OF TOP RIB SUPPORT ANGLE
TESTING THE TANKS
WING TANKS
W20
TANK CAPS
FITTING WING TIP ANGLE BRACKETS
PART 7
INSTALLATION OF RIVET BACKING PLATES
AND CAP STRIPS.
W26
FITTING WING TIPS.
PART 8
SPAR STIFFENER ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION
W30
PART 9
INSTALLATION OF SPAR-ATTACHMENT REINFORCEMENT FITTINGS
NOTCHING-OUT OF REAR SPAR ROOT SECTIONS
W33
PART 10
FITTING WINGS TO THE FUSELAGE
RIGGING OF WINGS AND DRILLING OF SPARS
BUTT RIB INSTALLATION
FITTING JURY STRUTS
RIVETING LIFT STRUT BRACKETS
W36
FITTING LEADING EDGE CUFF
PART 11
HANGING AND RIGGING FLAPPERONS
W47
PART 12
VARNISHING OF WOODEN PARTS
COVERING PREPARATION
PRE COVER INSPECTION
W52
PART 13
FLAPPERON BALANCING
W53
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WING
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PART 1: GENERAL PREPARATION
WOODEN PARTS
1. Sand all wooden ribs, cap strips and spar stiffener webs and remove all sharp edges and splinters of the
routed edges. Clamp the ribs together and check that all are the same profile.
2. Make a 16mm high wooden block. This fits under one end of one spar on the trestle and is used to build
washout into the wing.
16mm wash-out block
STEEL PARTS
1. De-burr and sand smooth all steel parts supplied with the kit. All the welded parts require trimming and
filling until smooth-edged. If there are any weld lumps on the surfaces, file them flush. Most of the
components are made from laser cut parts amd the bolt holes are pre-drilled to size. The holes that require
rivets have been made to 3.3mm for Cleco use. Don’t drill out the holes until dry fitting is completed.
ALUMINIUM SPARS
1. If the four WSP-1 aluminium spar tubes are to be treated against corrosion, now is the best time to wash
out the interior of the tubes with a primer/protector. Do not treat the outsides of the tubes at this time.
2. Each spar has a serial number engraved on one end, record the numbers below for later inclusion in the
aircraft log book.
a) Left front spar: ________________________
b) Right front spar: _______________________
c) Left rear spar: _________________________
d) Right rear spar: ________________________
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PART 2: SETTING UP OF TRESTLES
1. Both wings are built on a simple trestle jig. The ribs will be laid out to build the wings upside down for easier
accesses to the spar attach brackets. Position the trestle with one at each end of the spars, 3300mm apart,
this allows the ribs to be placed on the trestle during covering. Make the trestle 1200mm high and the
crosspiece 1000mm long.
2. Use a spirit level, dumpy level or clear tube filled with water to adjust the trestle so the top of each is exactly
level with the other. Affix the legs to the floor (Screws or bolts) so that the trestles cannot move, this will
ensure that both wings are built the same. To stop the rear spar from moving, clamp or nail a wooden upright
(+/- 20x100mm) securely to the sawhorse crosspiece.
Warning:
Note:
To obtain the perfect wing to fuselage fit, the distance between the centres of the top bolt
holes on the front and rear carry through members on the fuselage and the distance
between the front and rear spar tops must be the same.
The distance between the top boltholes and the bottom bolt holes differ by 5mm.
3. Twist or washout is built in by placing a 16mm block/ spacer under the tip end of the front spar, wing
upside down. It is critical that the procedure is checked and rechecked to prevent ending with a “wing-heavy”
aeroplane.
Note:
Remember to build one left and one right wing!!
4. Reposition the washout block when finished building one wing and preparing to start the other wing.
The tip rib will now be on the opposite trestle.
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PART 3: SPAR PREPARATION, MARKING RIB POSITIONS AND EPOXYING OF RIBS
SPAR PREPARATION
1. The wing spars should be a minimum of 4010mm long. Trim off excess after the wings are assembled.
2. Most spars have a slight bow in them of approximately 5-10mm. Match the spars so that each wing has a
straight (straightest) and bowed spar. Use the straightest spar on the leading edge. To check for bowing, roll
the spar along the trestle. Place the spar on the trestle so that the bowed section is in the horizontal plane,
bowing outwards, (the distance between the spars is at its greatest at the middle of the spar). This way the
bowing will not affect the washout.
3. Use a felt tip pen and mark the four WSP-1 aluminium wing spars front left, front right, rear left, rear right
and the root and the tip sides (looking forward into the direction of flight determines left and right wings).
RH Wing shown as in jig (inverted)
MARKING THE RIB POSITIONS ON THE SPARS
Note:
The rib closest to the fuselage is called the ROOT rib and the rib furthers from the fuselage
is called the TIP rib
1. Using acetone or MEK de-grease the whole spar.
2. Use a permanent felt tip pen to mark the centre position of each rib on the spar. Begin by making a mark
40mm from the spar root (butt rib side). From this mark, the ribs are spaced outwards exactly 330mm apart
(centre of rib to centre of rib – not space between ribs!)
All rib spacing dimensions are calculated from the root rib. Lay the tape measure along the spar and mark the
spar at the following measurements in millimetres:
40, 370, 700, 1030,1360, 1690, 2020, 2350, 2680, 3010, 3340, 3670, 4000.
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Rib spacing 330mm apart from rib centre.
3. Using 80-grit water paper rough an area about 20mm wide, on the spar where the ribs are to be epoxied.
Be sure to roughen the aluminium enough or else the epoxy will not bond properly but avoid making deep
scratches in the aluminium.
Tip:
Mask each side of the area to be sanded. This will ensure a neat square sanded area
4. Clean the sanded area with acetone and remark the rib centre positions on the spars.
Re-check the measurements.
5. With a marking pen mark two broad bands (around the spar) on either side (20mm) of the position of rib # 8
(counted from the root rib, 2350mm from the spar end) Boldly mark “NO FILLET” on the spar. The fillet on rib
number 8 (Explorer) number 9 (Safari) is done after the lift strut bracket is installed!
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6. Take two 4mm ribs (one for each wing) and file out a 2mm slot as per drawing. This is to accommodate the
WBK lift strut bracket. Mark the ribs RIB number 8 Explorer, number 9 Safari.
CUT-OUT FOR LIFT STRUT BRACKET
RIB #8
EPOXYING THE RIBS INTO POSITION
1. Align the spars so that they are perfectly square and parallel too each other. To do this, mark the topcentres of the four spar ends. To set the spars square, measure diagonally from mark to mark as shown
below. These distances should be equal. Tape or clamp the spar tips to the sawhorses to ensure they do not
move.
Tip:
To get the top centre of the spars, rest a straight edge across the two spars. Lightly scrape
the straight edge across the spar. This will be the top of the tube.
Spar alignment
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2. Lay out the spars on the trestles and slide all the ribs into position. Working from the root rib the ribs are
packed as follows:
Root rib = 6mm rib followed by two 4mm tank support ribs(see note), a 6mm rib, two 4mm ribs, a 6mm rib, rib
#8, 4mm rib a 6mm rib, two 4mm ribs and the 6mm tip rib.
Note:
Warning:
On the small (old)37-ltr tanks there is only one under tank & one 4mm rib
Ensure that the 16mm spacer is under the leading edge spar at the outer tip of the wing!
Upside down position.
3. Slide the ribs away from the marked areas. Re-clean the area to be epoxied with acetone. Once cleaned,
do not touch the area with your hands. Oil from your skin will weaken the bond.
Note :
READ GENERAL SECTION ON EPOXIES
4. First “tack” the ribs in to position and if all is ok permanently bond them in position. The epoxy is applied on
the inner side of the spar (side facing opposite spar) in the 2 o clock position
Mix a tablespoon each of the two parts of the epoxy WSA-D. Using a narrow spatula, apply a small amount
(drop) of the epoxy to the sanded spar area of the root rib. Slide the rib into place making sure that the centre
of the rib lines up with the spar mark. Do one rib one at a time. It is important that there should be adhesive
between the ribs and the spar. Make sure that the spacing is correct and that the ribs are 90º to the spars.
Use a spirit level to get the ribs vertical. Don’t forget to install the tank support ribs.
Use bungee, rope or strapping tape wound around the two main spars to pull the front spar snugly against the
ribs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!
Now recheck the alignment of the wing and spacing of the ribs before the epoxy sets. Ensure that the
flapperon attach ribs (6mm ribs) are positioned exactly 990mm apart. Masking tape or safety locking wire will
aid in holding the rib in position.
Once the epoxy has slightly set, re-check the ribs. Leave epoxy to cure.
5. While the epoxy cures, the support angles and trailing edges can be prepared. See STEP 4
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6. Once the epoxy has set, check all the measurements and ensure that the ribs are vertical to spars. Apply a
small “tack “of epoxy to the lower portion of the rib/ spar. This part may be combined with the support angle
and the trailing edge. See STEP 4
7. To strengthen the rib/spar bond, a fillet of epoxy, WSA-D is applied. Apply the epoxy paste around the ribspar mating surfaces. Make a good fillet of epoxy around the spar and rib but do not make the fillet too large.
This serves no purpose other than making the wing excessively heavy. After the fillet of epoxy has slightly set,
wet your finger and smooth the fillet.
TIP:
Purchase a few 10cc syringes from a pharmacy for use in applying a neat epoxy bead. If
cleaned with acetone before the epoxy hardens, the syringes can be reused many times.
Epoxy fillet
NOTE:
Do not apply an epoxy fillet to the under-tank ribs. The ribs need to be extensively trimmed
away to allow for the tank fitment.
Do not especially mix epoxy for the fillets. There is always excess epoxy from the spar
TIP:
stiffener, cap strips and other applications that can be used for fillets. If there are areas still
needing epoxy after the wing is done only then is fillet epoxy mixed.
.
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PART 4: INSTALLATION OF BOTTOM RIB SUPPORT ANGLE, DIAGONAL WING BRACES AND
TRAILING EDGE
BOTTOM RIB SUPPORT ANGLE (WST-1B)
1. The 12mm leg of the aluminium angle will be inserted into the slot in the leading edge of the ribs and the
19mm leg of the angle must fit into the recessed area to give the ribs a flush upper surface with the angle in
place. The top support angle runs from the tip rib to the 6mm rib before the wing tank section while the bottom
support angle runs to the root rib. The top aluminium angle does not protrude into the wing tank space. At
tank installation, the excess material will be removed.
Note:
Top of wing means “as wings are on the aircraft” not as the wing is built in the jig.
Slot for angle
2. De-grease and sand the inner and outer surfaces (full length) of the angle. Lay the WST-1B angle on the
wing in the rib slot. From the end of the root rib, make mark on the angle 3mm from the edge of the angle.
From this mark, space out the rib positions 330mm apart.
3. Apply structural adhesive, WSA-D to the ribs. Push the angle in place. Make sure the top of the angle is
flush with the rib surface. Also draw a little fillet of epoxy around the angle where it contacts the rib. Use
masking tape or wire to keep the angle in place, (marks on angle aligned with centre of ribs) until the epoxy
has set.
4. The WST-1A angle is epoxied in place once the wing has been turned over
TRAILING EDGE (WTE)
1. The plywood ribs are notched out at the trailing edge to accept the 3x12mm WTE aluminium trailing edge.
The flat bar runs the full length of the wing, starting at the root rib and ending at the tip rib.
2. As per the rib support angle, degrease, roughen and mark the flat bar. Make the first mark 3mm from the
root rib end (centre of the 6mm root rib). The rib spacing is also 330mm.
3. Mix some epoxy, WSA-D, and epoxy the strip to the ribs ensuring that there is epoxy between the rib and
the front of the strip. Trowel a small fillet of epoxy against the sides where it meets the ribs. Use masking tape
or safety wire to clamp the trailing edge into the rib slot.
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Most of the rib ears on the top and bottom of the trailing edge will be sanded away. See
sketch. Do not waste epoxy on the rear of the trailing edge.
4. When the epoxy has slightly set, check that the rib spacing marks are lined up with the rib centre line.
Rib side view, with & without “ears”
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DIAGONAL WING BRACES (WBR-1)
WARNING : SAFARI : Do not install the diagonal braces at this stage. The rivets will prevent the
alliminium doubler tube from sliding into position in the spar tube. Refer to PART 8 page W 30 for
doubler installation before continuing
Formatted: Font: Bold
Deleted: ¶
.
There are three Ø16mm x 0.9mm x1180mm, WBR-1, diagonal braces per wing. These braces are also called
drag and anti-drag braces. The braces will be fitted diagonally between the front and rear main spars from
6mm to 6mm ribs, except in the first section where the fuel tank fits in.
Diagonal wing braces
1. Form two vice jaw protector from some scrap aluminium/ steel plate. Press 40 mm of the one end of the
tube flat, then while still in the vice bend the tube over by about 33°. Measure the tube on the wing and if
needed trim the tube so that when the other end of the tube is flattened and bent over (in the opposite
direction), the diagonal brace is as close as possible to the 6mm rib.
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2. Trim the stage in the plywood ribs where the diagonal brace crosses the rib, so that the brace will lie on top
of this stage when in position. The brace must contact the spars on the horizontal centre line. You may cut
out all the other stages in the ribs to save weight.
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Trimmed rib
3. Drill four holes in a square pattern on the flattened area of each brace with a 4mm drill, making sure the
rivet heads don’t overlap. After priming / painting of the brace, apply some epoxy to the joint. Using four steel
rivets on each brace end, rivet the tubes in place. Remember to dip the rivets in primer. With excess epoxy
from the cap strips (or other areas), apply a small epoxy fillet around and behind each diagonal brace.
Brace fillet
4. Tie the braces to the rib with stainless locking wire. Additional epoxy can be applied between the brace and
the rib.
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Epoxy fillet, brace-spar-rib
Brace tied and epoxied to rib.
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PART 5: PITOT TUBE AND TURNING OF WING
PITOT TUBE
The Pitot tube is fitted to the bottom of the LEFT wing. Initially the Pitot tube will be dry fitted; the permanent
installation is done just before wing covering. Once installed the wing cannot be stored flat against anything
because of the protruding Pitot tube. Its easier fitting the LE cuff without the pitot installed.
Pitot fitted under left wing
1. Ream the intake of the Pitot so that no sharp edges will affect the airflow into the tube. Install the Pitot
tube on the bottom of the left wing, on the rib (number 7 Explorer, number 8 Safari) inboard of the lift strut
attach bracket. Move the tube forward so that the end of the tube is inline with or ahead of the leading edge.
Notch the cap strip/ leading edge cuff so that the tube is flush against the rib. Using epoxy and stainless
locking wire, affix the tube to the rib, ensuring that the tube is pointing straight forward with the tip alighned
with the leading edge and at least 130mm below the bottom of the wing. This will ensure that the tip clears the
pressure wave produced by the wing leading edge in flight.
2. Install the plastic Pitot tube line at the end of the tube, securing it off with locking wire and epoxy. Drill 6mm
holes in the rib, as near to the rear spar as possible. Route the plastic tube through holes to the root rib. The
tube will pass behind the wing tank and protrude into the cabin through the cut out in the root and butt ribs,
just forward of the rear spar.
The tube is routed with the fuel lines forwards to the instrument panel, for attachment to the airspeed indicator.
As the aeroplane allows for pressure changes inside the cabin, no static line is required and the static vents
on the instruments can be left open.
Check the pitot line for leaks before covering! Temporarily fit some soft hose like surgical
rubber to the pitot inlet end, Temporarily fit the airspeed indicator to the cockpit end of the
TIP:
pitot line. Whilst watching the ASI, clamp and roll the surgical rubber to get an indication on
the ASI till about mid range is indicated. Leave clamped in this position for about 30 minutes
and check for a decrease in the indication. There should be none. Investigate if there is. Do
not over pressurise the pitot line as the bellows in the ASI is easily damaged!
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TURNING OF WING
1. Remove all the tapes and clamps. Lift the wing from the trestle and turn it over. It will be noted that the
bottom angle prevents the front spar from resting on the trestle. If the trestles are properly spaced the wing
can be moved so that a rib rests on the trestle.
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PART 6: INSTALLATION OF TOP RIB SUPPORT ANGLE, TESTING THE TANKS, INSTALLATION OF
TANKS AND CAPS
TOP RIB SUPPORT
1. WST-1A top angle is spaced from the TIP rib. Prepare and install as the bottom angle. Do not trim the
section protruding into the wing tank bay. This will be trimmed later.
TESTING The WST-1A top angle is spaced from the TIP rib. Prepare and install as was done for the bottom
angle. Do not trim the section protruding into the tank bay, this will be trimmed later.
TESTING THE TANKS
1. The supplied fibreglass fuel tanks have a volume of 50 litres each. They are manufactured using a special
fuel resistant resin and can be used with either automotive or aviation fuels. The wing tanks are lowered from
above into the root section of each wing between ribs # 1 and # 4. The tanks are handed, one for the left and
one for the right wing. The filler cap is outboard and the outlet is inboard against the root rib.
The supplied tanks have been leak-checked but it is wise to perform this check
again before installing the tanks. Seal the outlet and fuel drain, fill to the brim
with fuel and place the vented cap on. Do not pressurize. Leave the tanks to
stand for a few days and check for leaks.
If a leak is found, contact Kitplanes for Africa.
Warning
Left wing and tank. Tank fits against root rib, under cap strip.
Do not install the wing tanks until the root rib fillets have been completed and
the ribs varnished.
Note
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WING TANK INSTALLATION
1. Sand and smooth out any rough fibreglass remains and sharp edges, with water sandpaper. The front
portion of the tank is rested on the front spar and the rear section is then lowered until the tank overhang
contacts the spar. The tank is supported by the front and rear overhangs that rest on the spars.
2. The tank must be moved sideways, under the root rib cap strip, until it contacts the root rib. This will prevent
the shrunken fabric from bowing the rib. The tank side-overhang can be slightly trimmed so that the tank
contacts as much of the root rib as possible.
Tip:
Make a round tube from copper mesh, 50-100mm long (used by hydraulic shops). Insert
and silver-solder in the end of the 3/8” tank outlet. This makes an efficient tank strainer.
CAUTION: if the tank overhang is trimmed too short the tanks can leak on the seam
3. To install outlets. The tanks have two plates, with threaded nipples, bonded into them. The drain, situated at
the bottom of the tank, is threaded for the ¼” BSP valve and the fuel outlet, situated on the side of the tank, is
threaded for the 3/8” BSP hose barb.
Check that there is no resin on the thread of the nipples. If the fittings are very tight, run a tap through to clear
the thread.
4. Clean the thread on the nipple and the hose barb/ drain with acetone/ MEK. Apply some LOCTITE to the
thread of the drain and hose barb. Screw into the nipple. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN as the bonded plate may
become dislodged, causing the tank to leak.
Note:
The hose barb and drain come standard with taper threads; we run a die-nut over the thread
to get a straight thread. If the thread is tapered or the fitting does not screw all the way in,
cut/ clean the thread with a die-nut.
If LOCTITE is not available use a medium strength epoxy for the fittings in position.
Tip:
Make a round tube from copper mesh, 50-100mm long (used by hydraulic shops). Insert
and silver-solder in the end of the 3/8” tank outlet. This makes an efficient tank strainer.
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Wing tank drains
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5. The tank is kept in place with silicone sealer between the tank edges and the spars. Clean the tops of the
spars and the bottoms of the tank overhangs with solvent. Use a good type of automotive silicone and lay a
bead on both spars where the tank overhangs will rest. Insert the tanks, recheck position and clean up the
remaining silicone with a wet finger.
6. Epoxy two wooden members between the lower side of the tank and the rear bottom of the root rib. This
will prevent the fabric from buckling the rib.
7. Epoxy the two cap strips over the top rear section of the under tank rib. Space the cap strip above the tank
so that they are level with the root & rib 4
TANK CAP
Tap the last 25 – 30mm of the, WT-5, with a M10 die-nut. Turn a M10 nut onto the end. Cut a piece of cork
packing so that it fits on the inside of the cap. Drill an undersize hole in the centre of the cap and packing,
insert the vent tube tightly about 15mm deep. Turn the cap on the tank and with the cap in closed position;
twist the vent tube inlet to face forward. Remove the cap and turn a M10 washer and nut onto the thread.
Lock the vent tube in position.
Do not over tighten the nut, as the tube will break.
Note:
Fig #
Part #
1
Part description
Qty/assey
Vent, fuel tank
1
2
N010
Nut M10
2
3
W010
Washer m10
2
4
WT-2
Cap, fuel tank
1
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Notes
Owner to thread
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WING TIP SUPPORT ANGLES
1
WY
Fibreglass wingtip LEFT
1
2
WE-1
Wing tip mount angle
1
3
WE-1
Wing tip mount angle
1
4
WRB-1
Wing rib 6mm
5
5
WRB-2
Wing rib 4mm
6
6
WSP-1
Wing spar
2
Trim to fit
INSTALLATION OF THE WING TIP SUPPORT ANGLES
The removable wing tips are secured to the outer portion of the tip rib, onto an aluminium angle that is affixed
to perimeter of the tip rib.
1. Cut the 4 lengths of 19 x 12mm aluminium angle, two 870mm long and two 830mm long. Notch the 12mm
leg of the angle so that the 19mm portion follows the contour of the rib.
2. Starting as close to the front spar as possible, bend the angle to the tip rib shape. The 19mm portion must
face outwards from the tip rib.
TIP:
A neat curve of aluminium angle can be obtained by marking 2cm intervals on the 12mm angle
and carefully cutting through to the 19mm angle with a hacksaw.
3. Where the angle crosses the rear spar, file out a recess that clears the epoxy fillet.
4. Space and drill 10 rivet holes, in the 12mm leg. Place the 12mm leg of the angle against the outside of the
tip rib, move the top of the angle so that it lies flush with the top of the rib. The cap strip, when installed will be
higher than the angle. Back-drill trough the rivet holes into the rib.
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Wingtip angle
5. Roughen and de-grease the angle. Apply epoxy to the angle and rivet the angle to the rib. Clean all excess
epoxy from the top of the angle.
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PART 7: Installation of flapperon -rib gusset Backing Plates and cap strips.
Backing plate detail
WARNING:
The angled WFL-6 backing plate forms the foundation of the flaperon mounting brackets and
is a very important load bearing component of the flight controls, take extra care in this area.
1. The backing plates are installed on the 6mm ribs only, the root and tip ribs require 1 wider bracket
each. The remaining 3 internal 6mm ribs require 2 narrower brackets each, 1 each side of the rib.
The laser cut flaperon-rib brackets attach to the top of the wing only and require the WFL-6 gussets to be
fitted below the cap strip and riveted through the rib. Apply epoxy to the rib-gusset and gusset-strip surfaces
before riveting. Evenly space 5 x 3.2 mm rivets.
2. Thoroughly de-grease and roughen the WFL-6 backing gusset plates in preparation for bonding.
3. Position in place, ensure that the gussets are flush with the top of the ribs before final bonding and riveting.
This will provide a continuous flat surface for the cap strips to be bonded to. Note that the root rib and tip rib
backing plates will be fitted so that the plate edge is flush with the outboard side of the respective ribs. The
other 3(per wing surface) back plates are fitted either side of the rib.
Picture showing WFL-6 gussets riveted and epoxied in place with flaperon hangar brackets dry fitted in
position over the cap strip.
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FITTING THE CAP STRIPS.
1. The 25mm wide plywood cap strips are installed on the ribs to provide a bonding surface for the fabric.
WARNING:
Although this may eliminate the need for rib stitching, it is COMPULSORY that the fabric be
securely bonded to the cap strips.
2. It is ideal to have the centre of the cap strip aligned with the centre-line of the rib however this is not always
possible, as the ribs tend to bow slightly from humidity.
WARNING:
DO NOT TRY AND BEND THE RIB TO GET THE CAP STRIP & RIB CENTRE LINE
ALIGNED, AS THIS WILL CAUSE THE CAP STRIP TO “DIP”, GIVING AN UNEVEN
FABRIC SURFACE.
3. The cap strips are placed on the rib from the edge of the trailing edge until half of the rib support angle. It is
best to start fitting cap strips on the top of the wing and then turning the wing to do the bottom.
Cap strip installation
4. Mark the centre line of the rib onto the rear of the trailing edge and onto the rib support angle.
Make a mark 12.5mm either side of the rib centre line on the trailing edge and the angle support.
Mark the centreline on one end of the WCS-1 cap strips,.
Draw a line 10mm from the edge of the 19mm leg of the WST-1A&B angles. This is the starting point of the
cap strips on the angle.
5. Start on the underside of the wing from the root rib. THE ROOT RIB CAP STRIP LIES FLUSH WITH THE
OUTER EDGE OF THE RIB AS DOES THE TIP RIB. Mix epoxy and apply a thin coat to the top of the rib
area, the brace angle where cap strip will contact, trailing edge where cap strip will contact and to the backing
plate. Lay the cap strip on the rib starting from the line on the rib angle and working towards the trailing edge.
Temporarily secure the cap strip to the rib with masking tape. Run a straight edge over the cap strips
between ribs to ensure that the cap strip is flat on the rib.
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6. The other cap strips are epoxied in the same manner except that they are centred on the ribs. Fill the small
gap on the 4mm ribs in the cut out where the backing plate would have been inserted. Once the epoxy has
been applied to the rib align the cap strip centre line with the rib centre line.
TIP:
Lay straight planks across 3 or more ribs on top of cap strips whilst curing to ensure the cap
strips bond flat onto the ribs.
7. Trim the cap strips flush with the trailing edge. Turn the wing over and epoxy the top cap strips the same as
the bottom strips. Note that the root rib cap strip does not have an angle to attach to between rib and tank bay.
Take care to ensure that the root rib strip does not sag while the epoxy cures.
8. Trim the cap strips flush with the trailing edge. Turn the wing over and epoxy the top cap strips the same as
the bottom strips. Note that the root rib cap strip does not have an angle to . Take care to ensure that the root
rib strip does not sag while the epoxy cures.
Cap strip with backing plate. 6mm rib shown
9. Leave the top tank ribs for last. Use excess cap strips to build up the tank cap strips so that they are level
with the adjacent cap strips.
10. Cut the excess cap strips in half (12.5 mm) strips. Measure the distance between the cap strips on the
trailing edge (about 305 mm), cut the cap strip to length and bond onto the trailing edge, between each cap
strip. Repeat on both sides of the trailing edge. This gives a better bonding area for the fabric cement.
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Trailing edge with cap strip
FITTING THE WINGTIPS
Trim to size and dry fit the fibreglass wing tip.
The wing tip should remain removable to enable internal wing inspection later on.
Wing tip dry fitted in position.
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PART 8: MANUFACTURE AND INSTALLATION OF SPAR STIFFENERS
Fig
Part Number
Part description
Qty/assey
Notes
1
WST-1B
Rib support angle bottom
1
Cut to
length
2
WLE-2B
Nose cuff section
4
Trim to fit
3
WSS
Wing spar stiffener
2
Fabricate
4
WRB-1
Wing rib 6mm
5
5
WRB-4
Wing tank rib
2
6
WTE
Wing trailing edge
1
7
WSP-1
Wing spar
2
The "I-beam" stiffeners spread the load from the lift strut attachment along the spar.
1. Fabricate the four WSS spar “I-beam” stiffeners. Trim the 6mm plywood webs and cap strips to the same
length, not less than 1200mm. Drill a 6mm hole in the centre of each plywood web, 125mm from each tip.
Cut a fish-mouth notch in each end. File and sand all edges smooth. The fish mouth will prevent stress
concentrations on the spars at the ends of the stiffeners.
NOTE : SAFARI : The doubler should be inserted in the spar tube from the wingtip side to a position that will
place the doubler halfway over the liftstrut position. This is approximately 2000 mm from the root of the
wingspar to the inboard edge of the doubler. Effectively placing the outboard or wingtip edge of the doubler
approximately 1000-1100mm from the wingtip edge of the spar tube.
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I-beam stiffiner
WCS-5
WSS-1
Fish mouth
cut-out
WCS-5
TIP:
Make a simple jig on a wooden bench to clamp the parts for the I-beam in while bonding.
"I-beam" jig
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Sander
SECURE THE STIFFENER IN POSITION
2. Drill two 3mm holes in the exact top of the front and rear spars, position the holes so that they will allow
screws to be tapped into the spar stiffeners inboard of the fish-mouth ends. Countersink the holes in the spars
so that the tapered heads can be flushed.
3. On the fabricated and rounded "I-beam", draw a centre line along the top cap strip. From the middle of the
cap strip, measure out the position where the two countersink screws will be. Mark the positions of the screws
to correspond with the holes drilled in the spars with a felt tip marker.
4. Slide the I-beam into the spar until the holes and marks line up with each other. Check that the I-beam web
is vertical, drill a small pilot hole into the I-beam, dip the 4x12mm wood screw into structural adhesive and
screw them into the stiffener-caps.
TIP:
Revision:
Fabricate a tool to manipulate the I-beam in the spar, getting it in position.
Cut a 3m piece of wood, make a fish mouth on the end of it and use it to slide in and engage
the stiffener fish mouth. Twist and/or push as required. If pushed too far, push back from the
other end.
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5. Fabricate the WSP-3 spar attach reinforcement fittings according to the drawing below. Cut the tube in
four 100mm sections. Split the tube in half, from the front left corner to the right rear corner. Open the tube
so that it fits snugly in the spar. Drill the 4. rivet holes, according to the sketch, through the spar and the steel
insert. There are 5 rivets along the back and 2 rivets on the front (open side). Remove the insert and ream all
the rivet holes, paint the insert with steel primer. Install the steel insert in the spar with the opening pointing
forwards for front spar and rearward for the rear spar. Remember to dip the riveand install wet.
STEP 9: INSTALLATION OF SPAR ATTACHMENT REINFORCEMENT FITTINGS AND NOTCHING-OUT
OF REAR SPAR ROOT ENDS FOR WING FOLDING.
SPAR REINFORCEMENT FITTING
SPAR ATTACH REINFORCEMENT FITTINGS
1. Fabricate the WSP-3 spar attach reinforcement fittings according to the drawing below. Cut the tube in
four 100mm sections. Split the tube in half, from the front left corner to the right rear corner. Open the tube
so that it fits snugly in the spar. Drill the 4.0 rivet holes, according to the sketch, through the spar and the
steel insert. There are 5 rivets along the back and 2 rivets on the front (open side). Remove the insert and
ream all the rivet holes, paint the insert with steel primer. Install the steel insert in the spar with the opening
pointing forwards for front spar and rearward for the rear spar. Remember to dip the rivets in primer and
install wet.
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Spar reinforcement fitting
Spar reinforcement fitting installed (rear spar)
DRILL THE SPAR BOLT HOLE ON THE REAR SPAR.
WARNING:
This is a critical part of the wing to fuselage assembly. ONLY PLAN TO DRILL THE TOP
HOLES ON THE REAR SPARS at this time. Take your time to do the job properly and
ask yourself: "Do I really want to have to build this wing again?"
NOTE:
Please familiarise your self with the General manual, particularly the section on drilling of
holes. Read carefully, measure carefully, drill a safe, accurate and neat hole. TAKE
YOUR TIME!
1. Use a straight edge across the tops of the spar roots to find the exact top, draw along lightly to mark.
2. Lightly scribe the top centres for both rear and front spars. The mark on the front spar will be used later.
2. On the rear spar, accurately mark 20mm in from the end along the straight edge scribe mark.
3. Centre punch the mark on the rear spar top.
4. Start drilling a 3.2mm pilot hole, on the top of the rear spar only, not top and bottom! Take care to
ensure the hole stays on the mark, draw slightly if required.
5. Increase the hole size to a close tolerance clearance in 3-4 stages to take the 8mm spar bolt.
6. De-burr the hole.
7. Repeat on the other wing rear spar.
CUT OUT FOR WING FOLDING
After inserting the rear spar reinforcements and drilling the top rear spar holes, material may be removed to
allow folding back of the wing.
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Wings can be folded on the Bushbaby and Explorer. Due to the design change on the
fuselage of the Safari, wing folding is not possible.
Cut off the excess spar at the wing tip end, leave 2cm protruding from the tip rib.
POSITION AND TEMPORARILY FIT LIFT STRUT BRACKETS
Fig #
Part #
Part description
1
WLS-L or R
Lift strut
Qty/assey
2
N010W1
Lock nut rod end
2
3
WLS-3
Rod end bearing 10mm
2
4
B0865W2
Bolt 8X65mm
2
5
W008
Washer 8mm
2
6
NY008
Nylok nut
2
7
WBK
Lift strut bracket
2
8
WLS-2
SPACERS; Ø12 x 50mm
4
Cut and trim to fit
9
WLS-1
BUSHES: Ø10 x 32mm
2
Trim to fit
1
Notes
Left or Right
1. Drill out the rivet holes to 4.1mm in the WBK lift strut brackets. De-burr the holes on both sides.
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2. Prime the lift strut bracket.
3. Measure the position of the WBK lift strut brackets on the spars. For the Explorer this is a point
approximately 2170 mm (between ribs no 7 and 8) outboard from the root end of the spars to the centre of the
8mm lift strut attach bolt hole. For the Safari this point is between ribs 8 and 9. Position the two brackets on
the spars so that the rear bracket angles inwards by 10 degrees and the front angles inwards by 20 degrees.
(Viewed along the spar) Notch out ribs 8 (4mm ribs) around the spar hole (front and rear) so the two
extensions of the bracket will fit through them. Temporarily clamp the lift strut brackets in position using
2X70mm hose clamps per bracket. Do not drill any holes yet!
Lift strut bracket temporarily clamped
PART 10:
FITTING OF WINGS TO FUSELAGE, RIGGING OF WINGS AND DRILLING OF SPARS
FITTING JURY STRUTS AND RIVETING LIFT STRUT BRACKETS.
LEVEL THE FUSELAGE AND SECURE IT TO THE GROUND
TIP:
Check the accuracy of your spirit level! Test by taking a reading noting the position of the bubble,
rotate the level 180 degrees on the same surface and read again. If the bubble is in a different
position the level requires calibration.
1. Level the fuselage for-aft and port-starboard using a spirit level on the aft spar carry through and along the
top of the entry between the door hinge points. Always try to use the same area for reading of levels. Do not
set the spirit level over a weld.
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2. Lift tail and support level.
3. Secure some scrap wood planks to the floor with wall plugs and screws. Use scrap wood to put under the
forward undercarriage leg brackets. Screw wood screws through the u/c brackets into the wood. Shim
between the u/c bracket wood and the planks on the floor to level.
4. When the fuselage is level for-aft and side-side, secure it to the ground through the scrap wood so that it
will not move when the wings are fitted.
Fuselage level and secured to the floor.
RECORD THE SPAR BOLT HOLE POSITIONS
1. Find and mark the centre of the front spar carry-through tube, measure centre to centre from the boltholes
in this tube.
2. Note the distance from the centre mark on the carry-through tube to the centre of the bolthole on both the
left and right wing sides, A and B. Measure from the centre of the boltholes in the rear spar carry-through
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forward to the centre of the boltholes in the front carry-through, C and D. These should be approximately
696mm.
3. Record measurements for A, B, C and D. These measurements will be needed later in order to locate the
exact spot to drill through the tops of the forward spars into the bolt holes.
4. Measure and record the diagonal measurements between the front and rear spar bolt holes.
Tip
Turn points on some old M8 bolts in order to accurately locate the spar hole centers. If you
do not have access to a lathe you can use a power drill and a rotating grindstone to do this.
POSITION THE WINGS ON THE FUSELAGE
1. The spar-fuselage mounting points on the fuselage require some rounding off before the spars will fit over
them.
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2. Carefully round the tube ends with a file so that the spar will turn on the rear mount and slide over the front
mount as the folded wing swings out into position. Where the length of the tube must be reduced, take more
material off the bottom, leaving the top rounded but as close to the original height as possible.
3. Position the wing spars onto the fuselage-spar mounts, drop the 8mm rear spar bolts into the holes drilled
on the top of the rear spars. Temporarily support the wings on trestles in this position, taking care not to exert
up or down torque loads on the fuselage spar carry through. Adjustable trestles and one or two helpers will
make this a lot easier.
4. Fit the lock nuts then turn the lift strut rod end bearings all the way into the lift struts. Then turn out the rod
ends 3 to 4 turns and set the lock nut lightly.
5. Fit the lift struts to the fuselage and the lift strut rod ends to the lift strut brackets, don’t forget the bushes
and spacers.
NOTE:
WARNING:
Revision:
Do not use the nylok nuts at this time as the lift struts will be removed again.
When the wing has been fitted to the fuselage and no bolt is fitted to the front spar carry
through, the wing could swing back if unrestrained, possibly damaging the wing.
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CHECK THE SWEEP ON THE WINGS
Sweep is the position of the wing in relation to the fuselage, forward or aft.
When both wings have been positioned on to the fuselage, symmetry and sweep need to be determined by
means of plumb lines, datum lines and measurements.
1. Mark the datum line on the floor. Stretch a chalk line on the floor below the front spar along the wing span
of the aircraft exactly perpendicular to the axis of the fuselage.
2. Attach 3 plumb lines (thin line with a little weight at the bottom e.g. Pyramid fishing sinkers) to the root,
middle and tip of the rear of each front spar. Secure them with masking tape.
3. Sight down the 6 lines and move the wingtips for and aft until the lines are all lined up. Move the wings until
the six lines are equally far from the bottom datum line on each side.
4. Measure the distance from each trailing edge wing tip to the same point low down on the tail post. These 2
measurements will be the same when the sweep of the wings is the same.
Standard engine installations and weights do not require forward or rearward sweep of the wings to get the
final centre of gravity position right. If you are fitting an exceptionally heavy engine with a non factory engine
mount there may be a need to incorporate some forward sweep. Please consult the factory.
5. Measure from each wingtip to the tail post to ensure both wings are equidistant from the tail post. If not,
correct and recheck the plumb lines. Remember, a very small movement at the root end of the spar will
translate into a much larger movement on the tip end of the spar. When you have it right, the distances from
the tail post will be the same within 3-6mm and the plumb lines will all line up. This will also mean that the
wings are perpendicular to the fuselage. Clamp the front spars in this position securely. A small G-clamp
works nicely.
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WASHOUT AND DIHEDRAL
Washout is the twist built into a wing so that the wingtip will have a lower angle of attack than the wing root.
This will result in the wing root stalling before the wing tip, which is desirable to prevent wing from dropping
during a stall as well as maintaining better roll control during the stall. The KFA wing needs 16mm of
washout, measured at the tip rib.
Dihedral is the angle at which the wing tip is higher than the wing root when looked at from the front of the
aircraft. It is built into the wings of an aircraft to increase roll stability. The higher the dihedral the more the
aircraft will tend to return to the wings level position during turns, which is desirable up a point. An aircraft with
to much dihedral will resist roll control input thus causing the aircraft to be less manoeuvrable, it will also stall
at a higher speed due to the tilted lift vectors. High wing monoplanes are inherently stable as the centre of
gravity is located below the wings. A high wing can therefore be built without any dihedral and still be
reasonably stable. It will however put a higher workload on the pilot in active air. If high manoeuvrability is
required then a dihedral angle of between 0 degree and 1 degree is used, for more stability a dihedral angle of
between 2 and 3 degrees is used. We opted for the golden middle road by using a dihedral angle of 1.5
degrees, which provides both good stability and manoeuvrability.
WARNING:
It is important to have exactly the same amount of dihedral and washout on each wing.
CHECK THE WINGTIP WASHOUT
1. Ensure fuselage is level, for and aft, side to side.
2. Set up a trestle to support a straight edge across bottom of the spars protruding from the tip ribs.
3. Level the straight edge with the bottom of the forward spar touching the top of the straight edge.
4. Measure the height of the rear spar above the level straight edge. It should read 16mm.
5. If required, slacken the aft lift strut bracket clamps, move the rear spar up or down to achieve the 16mm
required, retighten the clamps.
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MEASURE AND SET DIHEDRAL
Method used for checking levels and angles with a water level made of clear plastic tube.
This method has proved to be very accurate and cheap and can be used to set dihedral angles, wingtip wash
out, and incidence angles between wing and stab.
Materials required:
•
15 meters of ¼ to ½ inch plastic tubing. is used filled with a
•
Solution of water, food colouring and a very small amount of liquid dish washing soap. The soap is
•
5m tape measure.
•
Line and line level.
used to reduce the surface friction in the tube.
• 2 X 2m planks.
1. Use planks to make an upright support for the tube at each point in front of the spar but not touching it, the
tube must remain stationary when the wing is moved up or down. Secure the tube to the uprights, extending
above the wing. Position the uprights with the tube attached to visually intersect the tube/spar at 3175mm
from the inboard spar ends, halfway between ribs 10 and 11.
2. Stretch a level line to measure and mark the datum from the bottom of the forward spar to the water tube
support. Mark the datum on the water tube.
3. Fill the tube with colored water solution till it rises exactly 83mm above the datum.
4. Slack off the hose clamps holding the lift strut brackets to the spars and carefully adjust the wing height till
the bottom of the front spar at the 3175mm point lines up with the water level at 83mm above the datum. This
equals a wing dihedral of 1.5 degrees.
5. Securely clamp the lift strut brackets in this position.
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DRILL THE BOTTOM REAR SPAR HOLE
Once satisfied that sweep, washout and dihedral have been checked, the rear spar bottom hole can be
drilled.
1. Ensure the forward spar is securely clamped in position and the wing is well supported.
2. Remove the rear spar 8mm bolt from the top rear spar bolt hole.
3. Using the top spar bolt hole and spar carry through lug as a guide, drill out the bottom hole to 8mm
clearance, take care not to remove material from the carry through lug.
4. Refit the 8mm rear spar bolt.
5. Repeat on the other wing.
FOLD THE WING
NOTE:
Wings can be folded on the Bushbaby and Explorer. Due to the design changes on the
fuselage of the Safari, wing folding is not possible.
The wing can now be folded for the first time. Use a helper on the wingtip, move slowly and ensure that the
Rear spar cut out has sufficient clearance to clear the spar carry through as the wing rotates.
Repeat on the other wing.
NOTE:
Due to an accumulation of tolerances and the length of the wing, the wing tips may not line up
exactly when folded. Of more importance is the symmetry and rigging of the wing for flight.
DRILL THE FORWARD SPAR BOLT HOLES AND CARRY OUT FINAL RIGGING CHECKS.
Once satisfied that sweep, washout and dihedral have been checked again, the forward spar top and
bottom holes can be drilled.
The recorded measurements A,B,C and D are now needed.
1. With the wing spars in place, the rear spar bolts in and the wing secured in position, use these
measurements to position a mark on the top of each forward spar over the carry through lug as accurately as
possible.
2. Centre punch the marks.
3. Drill out the 8mm clearance holes in 3 stages. After the first stage, sight into the hole and check the
alignment with the carry through lug. Draw the hole into position during the rest of the drilling if not exactly
centred, taking care not to ream out the carry through lug.
4. Drill through the bottom of the forward spar.
5. Fit the 8mm bolt or clevis pin.
6. Check the washout at the wingtip and the dihedral for the final time. If any fine adjustments are required,
make these by turning the lift strut bracket rod ends in or out, a maximum of 3 threads is allowed to show
above the the rod-end lock-nut after final torque.
7. Set the final torque on the rod end bearing lock nuts.
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DRILLING AND RIVETING THE LIFT STRUT BRACKETS.
1. Drill the holes in the lift strut attach brackets through the spars starting at the centre and working up
towards the sides. Drill the holes in all four brackets while keeping them clamped. The hole size must be
4.1mm to take the 4mm stainless steel rivets. Do not rivet the lift strut brackets to the spars yet.
BUTT RIB INSTALLATION
1. Locate the butt ribs, FRB-1, (supplied with the fuselage kit) on the fuselage mounting brackets, FB.
2. Slide the FB brackets onto the fuselage tubes.
3. If you have not already installed the cap strips on the butt ribs, do so before proceeding. Install the cap
strips so that the cap strip sides are flush with the out side of the butt ribs.
4. Slide the butt ribs up against the root ribs. You may have to bend the tubes on the fuselage to get a more
precise match with the wing root rib. Use a 0.5 mm shim to space the butt ribs just slightly apart from the root
rib for fabric covering clearance.
5. Position the butt ribs so that the top surfaces of the butt ribs match the top surfaces of the root ribs. Clamp
the butt ribs in position.
6. Mark the position of the FB brackets on the butt ribs for drilling through the holes in the tabs
7. Take the butt ribs out again.
8. Drill and rivet the FB brackets to the FRB-1 butt ribs in the positions marked.
9. Put the butt ribs back, slide into position.
10. Final fitment of the butt ribs is detailed in the Finishing manual, page 16.
FITTING JURY STRUTS
Locate the WJS-4 jury strut attach brackets (x4) supplied with the wing kit. These secure the jury strut to the
spar.
Locate the WJS-3 jury strut attach clamp (x4) supplied with the wing kit. These secure the jury strut to the lift
strut.
1. With the wing and lift strut in place, position a jury strut clamp WJS-3 around each leg of the lift strut.
Position the top of the jury strut approximately 109cm from the root of the spar (halfway between the root
attach point and lift strut attach point).
2. Use 70mm hose clamps to clamp the WJS-4 jury strut attach brackets to the spar and temporarily attach
the jury strut. Make sure that the jury struts are parallel with the centre line of the fuselage and that the lift
struts are perfectly vertical with the jury struts attached. Slide the bottom of the jury strut up and down the lift
struts until they are perfectly vertical (You will have a much stronger lift strut in the negative “G” loading
condition if the lift struts are vertical).
3. Drill the holes in the spars for the jury strut attach brackets and attach with the 4.0 x 8mm steel rivets. Dip
the rivets in primer before setting.
NOTE:
Revision:
If the jury struts are to be removed and painted be sure to mark its location on the lift strut
so it can be reinstalled correctly. If you plan to install speed fairings to the lift struts, the
location of the clamp is critical because the fairing will be notched out to allow for the clamp.
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WING
REMOVE THE WINGS TO COMPLETE THE NEXT STEP.
LEADING EDGE CUFF FITMENT
The fibreglass leading edge cuffs are moulded to the shape of the leading edge.
Trim the leading edge cuff sections (4 per wing) to fit.
The separate sections start, meet and end on the 6mm ribs.
The leading edge cuffs are bonded to the ribs, top and bottom rib brace angles with epoxy.
Notch the cuffs where required to accommodate the cap strips on the rib brace angles.
Cut cuffs to accommodate lift and jury strut brackets.
Cleco and clamps holding cuff in place.
Cutout in leading edge cuff for the lift strut bracket.
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RIVET THE LIFT STRUT BRACKETS TO THE SPARS
1. Whilst the drilled lift strut brackets are clamped in place, mark them left front, left rear, right front and right
rear before removing them from the spars.
2. Clean, de-burr, prime and paint the drilled WBK lift strut brackets.
3. Lightly de burr the holes in the spar by hand using a 6mm drill.
4. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the inside surface of the brackets.
5. Refit the brackets in the correct positions, lightly clamped.
6. Dip, insert and set the SS4808W4 steel rivets, starting at the middle of the brackets and working outwards.
TIP:
Revision:
There are 168 of these rivets to install. Though it can be done with an ordinary pop riveter, it
will greatly help if you can borrow or hire a pneumatic riveter for this part of the job!
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PART 11:
NOTE:
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
WING
FLAPERON PREPARATION, FLAPERON ATTACHMENT BRACKETS AND RIGGING OF
FLAPERONS.
The flaperons and brackets are first dry fitted to the wing, rigged then removed for
wing covering and later permanent fitment.
FLAPPERON PREPARATION, FIT THE FLAPERON BALANCE HORN WELDMENTS
1. Prepare the fibre glass flaperons by drilling a 4mm moisture drain hole in the extreme rear of the bottom
skin below each hanger hinge. Sand the flaperons, removing any sharp edges or burrs.
2. Find and mark the position of the rivet back plate for the balance horn mounting, moulded in, just outboard
of the 3rd flaperon hangar.
3. Ream, deburr and prime the WFL-10 weldment plate to take the AL3208W3 3.2 x 8mm rivets.
4. Bend the WFL-10 balance horn weldment plate to the shape of the flaperon aerofoil. The plate will be
positioned with the rear edge starting approximately 2cm from the trailing edge on the bottom side of the
flaperon.
5. Using a 3.3mm drill, drill and rivet the WFL-10 weldments onto the flaperon. Do not permanently fit the
WFL-3 lead weights to the WFL-10 weldments at this time. Final flaperon balancing will be done after rigging
and painting.
6. As with all fibreglass parts, prime with MS primer.
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DRY FIT THE WFL-4 FLAPERON BRACKETS TO THE WING
Locate the four WFL-5 flaperon hangar weldments.
Locate the 20 x C0616W1 6x16mm cap screws, 6mm washers and non nylok nuts for temporary fitting.
The WFL-4 flaperon brackets must be mounted on the trailing edge of the wing so that
WARNING:
the WFL-5 flaperon hangar weldments hang in a straight line. This will avoid binding of
the controls.
DRY FIT THE WFL-4 FLAPERON ATTACHMENT BRACKETS
1. Insert a WFL-7 nylon bush into each of the four loose WFL-5 flaperon hangar weldments.
2. Assemble mirrored WFL-4 brackets to the three WFL-5 flaperon hangar weldments per flaperon,
incorporated when the flaperon is constructed. The other two WFL-5 weldments are slid onto the outboard
and inboard ends of the flaperon spars.
3. Mark the centreline of the 6mm ribs number 4, 7 and 10 on the trailing edge of the wing.
4. Place single wider WFL-4 brackets onto the TOP root rib and tip rib capstrips with hangar tab butting up
with the trailing edge of the wing. The “foot” of the tip rib bracket faces inboard whilst the “foot” of the root rib
bracket faces outboard. Ensure that the WFL-4 brackets are parallel with the rib centre line, the predrilled rivet
holes line up with the centre of the capstrip.
5. Drill 3.3mm holes and cleco these brackets in position. Do not install the brackets permanently as the
wings first have to be covered. Remove the brackets in order to index a line for all the other brackets.
6. With the WFL-4 brackets fitted to the WFL-5 weldments, use the flaperons as a jig to ensure that the rest of
the brackets line up correctly.
7. Slide the end WFL-5 weldments onto the flaperon spars, lift and support the flaperon while bolting it to the
root and tip rib brackets clecoed in place.
8. Still supporting the flaperon, line up the holes in the WFL-4 brackets.
9. Use the brackets as a template to drill through the capstrips and backing plate gussets. Check that the
WFL-6 backing plates do not separate from the cap strip when drilling through them.
10. Cleco the brackets in place after drilling.
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1
2
3
3
11
4
5
12
10 9
8
6
7
Fig #
Part #
Part description
Qty/assy
1
WFL-5
Flaperon hanger
1
2
WFL-7
Nylon bearing, flaperon hanger
1
3
SS4808
Rivet steel, 4.8 x 8mm
4
4
WFL-2
Control horn, flaperon
1
5
B0625
Bolt 6 x 25
1
6
FCT-4
Push-pull tube
1
7
N006
Lock nut, 6mm
1
8
FC-1
Rod-end bearing, 6mm female
1
9
W006
Washer 6mm
1
10
WI006
Wing nut, 6mm
1
11
WFL-1
flaperon
1
12
WFL-8
Bearing, 4mm nylon sheet
1
Notes
Bottom 2 not shown
To FBM-B mixer
Right hand shown
Flaperon control horn assembly, right hand
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WING
DRY FIT THE BOTTOM FL-4 FLAPERON ATTACHMENT BRACKETS
With the flaperons hanging from the top WFL-4 brackets:
1. Drill and ream a hole to clearance size in the WFL-8 nylon sheet bearing to fit over the WFL-2 control horn.
The nylon bearing will be positioned inboard of the tabs welded onto the fuselage.
2. Slide the WFL-8 bearing onto the control horn and slide the control horn tube over the flaperon spar, control
horns pointing forward. Do not rivet in position at this time and do not trim off excess spar length yet either.
3. Mark and drill the WFL-8 bearing through the fuselage tabs. Secure the bearing to the tabs with screws and
nuts.
4. Check that the WFL-5 inboard and outboard flaperon hangar weldments are hanging at the same angles to
the wing. Tighten the capscrews to hold this angle.
5. Assemble the bottom WFL-4 bracket sets onto the WFL-5 weldments with capscrews and nuts. One each
on the tip and root rib, pairs on ribs 4, 7 and 10.
6. Hold the brackets up to the bottom of the wing, drill and cleco in place onto the capstrips and backing
plates.
7. Drill an additional hole on each WFL-4 bracket through the top bracket, trailing edge flat bar and bottom
bracket.
8. Repeat on the other wing.
TIP:
Mark all the WFL-4 brackets, top and bottom, left and right and numbered for later
installation in the same positions.
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RIVETING THE CONTROL HORNS AND RIGGING THE FLAPPERON CONTROLS
Complete this step once the control system installation section of the Fuselage Construction Manual has been
completed.
With the wings rigged, flaperons installed, control horns fitted facing forward and the WFL-8 nylon bearing in
position:
RIVETING THE FLAPERON CONTROL HORNS.
1. Make a template to rig the flaperon control horns. Cut a wooden block 5-15mm thick and 200x350mm high
and long. On both sides of the block draw a line 350mm long, 15mm from the edge. Drill a 3.2mm hole on
the line 165mm from one end. Using the 3.2mm hole and the line as a reference, draw a 5-degree line. On
the other side of the block draw a 19.5-degree line. Now drill the 3.2mm hole to 19mm. Accurately split the
block along the 350mm line.
2. Draw a pencil line along the inboard flaperon chord.
3. Position the template against the flaperon end on the fuselage side with the half circle under the flaperon
spar and the top of the template on the trailing edge of the flaperon. Adjust the angle of each flapperon horn,
by using the reference lines, in relation to the flaperon chord as indicated by the tip of the template. Right horn
5 degrees down. Left horn 19.5 degrees down. Right and left as when seated in the aircraft.
4. Drill four 4.1mm holes through the flapperon horn and aileron spar – two each on opposite sides of the
tube but not opposite each other. De-burr, prime and rivet with SS408W2 4.0x8mm steel rivets.
NOTE:
Revision:
Install the rivets so that they do not interfere with the WFL-8 nylon bearings.
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RIGGING THE FLAPERONS
1. Centre the control stick laterally and clamp it securely in position.
2. Adjust the flap push-pull tube FCT-3 so the angle between the belly (datum) of the aircraft and the FBM-A
flap mixer bellcrank is 11 degrees up as shown.
3. Centre the angle of attack of the flaperon. To create a datum, take a 1500mm long straight edge and insert
it between the wing and the flapperon. Place the straight edge on the underside of one of the ribs just
outboard of the strut bracket. The measured distance between the straight edge and the leading and trailing
edge of the flapperon must be the same. Clamp the flaperon in this position.
4. Adjust the length of the right and left FCT-4 push-pull rods, set the lock nuts and install them. .
5. Trim the flaperon spar so that 20mm of tube protrudes past the outboard flaperon hanger. Trim any excess
spar protruding from the flapperon control horn.
STEP 12: VARNISHING OF ALL WOODEN PARTS
Sand any areas on the ribs and cap strips that you may have missed or that may have become dirty.
Mask off the outer surfaces of each cap strip with masking tape. Do not to varnish the cap strips or the leading
edge cuff, where the fabric attaches.
Once all the bonding is done and all the wooden parts are installed, a clear polyurethane wood varnish is
applied to protect all the wooden parts.
Be sure to varnish the insides of the cap strips and down into the V created where the top and bottom
capstrips meet at the trailing edge.
Apply 2 thinned coats.
NOTE:
Revision:
If you wish to treat the outside surfaces of your aluminium spars, now the best time to paint
over all the bare aluminium surfaces.
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WING
PREPARATION FOR THE PRE-COVER INSPECTION
1. Inspect all fabrication work on the wings. Make sure all epoxy joints are complete and strong. Clean all
epoxy residues and smooth the cap strips, leading edges and trailing edges. The smallest particle will appear
like a mountain below the fabric covering. Make sure that all exposed parts are corrosion protected and that
the wings are ready for covering.
3. If the fuselage assembly is completed, arrange for a civil aviation approved inspector to do the pre cover
inspection on the aircraft. Have the airframe logbook available sign out the inspection. Temporarily assemble
the complete aircraft for the inspection.
Completion Date:
Name:
Deleted: ¶
PART 13: BALANCING THE FLAPPERON
BALANCING THE FLAPERON CONTROL SURFACE
Control surfaces with a pivot point aft of the leading edge require the leading edge to be slightly heavier than
the trailing edge in order to avoid control surface flutter.
Control surface flutter can rapidly lead to destruction of the control surface in flight with
potentially fatal consequences. Do not neglect this step!
WARNING:
When all fabrication, fitting, rigging and painting of the flaperons is complete:
1. With the flaperons fitted in position, disconnect the FCT-4 flaperon push-pull rods.
2. Ensure no binding in the flaperon spar hinge, if required the WFL-5 weldments can be bent very slightly in
order to avoid binding in the pivot slots of the flaperons.
3. Slide the WFL-3 lead filled T head into the WFL-10 balance horn elbow.
4. Move the T head in or out to achieve a slight nose heavy condition on the flaperon.
5. Drill, deburr and rivet the T head in position at 4 places along the trailing edge using 3.2x8mm rivets.
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