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DAV ID C H A M BR E
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INTRODUCTION BY JE AN-BAPTISTE TRIBOUT
© 2015, LE S É DITIONS DU MON T- BL ANC
WWW.LE S E DITIONS DUMON T BL A NC.COM
C ATH E RIN E DE STIV E LLE, DIRECTOR OF TH E ÉDITIONS DU MONT- BL A NC
OTH E R TITLE S IN TH E MON TAGN E-CULTURE COLLECTION:
REGAR DS S UR LES A LPES, JACQUE S PE RRET, 2011.
MON T- BL A NC, PREMIÈ RES A S C ENSIONS , MIC H EL J U LLIE N AN D JACQUE S PE RRE T, 2012.
L A MON TAGN E À L A UN E , PHILIPPE BON H ÈM E, 2013.
ALPINIS M E, L A S AGA DES IN VEN TIONS , GILLE S MODIC A , 2014.
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IS BN : 978- 2-36545- 022-5
CON TE N TS
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TA BLE OF MAIN DIFFI CULT Y GRADES
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BIBLIOGR A PH Y
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A NOTH E R FRE NC H N E W WAVE . ... .. . ........ . ... .. ..... ... . .... ... ..... ... .. .. . ... . ... . ... . ... ... . .... . ... . .... . .. . . 9 7
+ PAT RIC K BER HAULT, A STAR IS LOS T .. ..... .. .... .... ... .... ..... ... . ... . ... . .... ... .. .. .... . ... . .... ... . . . . . . 9 8
. . .AN D BUS Y TIM E S IN EUROPE . ... .. . ..... ...... .. .. ... .. .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... . .... ... .. .. .... . ... . .... ... .... . .. 1 04
+ PAT RIC K E DLINGER, ... BE FORE H E BEC A ME ‘LE BLON D ’ .. .. ..... . .. ... .. ... .. ... .. .... .. .. ... ... . . . 1 08
+ J ERRY MOFFAT T, A WHIRLWIN D DEB UT .. .. ..... .. . ... .. ... .. ... .. .... .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... ..... ... . . .. . 1 14
+ C ATHERIN E DE STI VELLE , RO CK QUEE N .. .. ..... . .. ..... ... .. . ..... . ... ..... ... .... .... . . .. . .... . ... ... . . . . 1 18
TRIVIALIS ATION OF TH E E IGH TH GRADE .. .. ... ... .. ... .. ... .. ... .. ... .. .. .... . ... ..... ... .... .... . ... . .... . .. . . . 1 22
A PARIS GANG, TH E GROUP E F FECT . ... ... .. ...... .. ... . ..... . ... . ... . .. .. ... ..... ... .. .. .... . ... . .... . .. ... . . .. . . 1 23
‘ RAVAGE MOI’ . . .. . . . .. . . .. . . ... ..... ..... .... . ... . ... . .... ... .. ... ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... .. .. . ... . ... . .... . .. .... . ... .. . .. 1 30
TH E F IRST COMPETITIONS . ...... ... . ..... ... .. ... .. .... .. . .... . ... . ... . .... ... ..... ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... .... . .. . . . 1 31
EUROPE PRE AC H E S TH E GOOD WORD IN AM E RIC A .. .. ..... .. . ... .. ..... ... .. ... .... .... . ... . .... . .. . ... . . .. 1 36
+ PAT RIC K E DLINGER, H E WORE THE YELLOW J ER S E Y .. .. ..... ... .. ... ... ..... .... .. .. ... ..... ... .. .. . 1 38
T H E IN DIVIDUALIT Y OF TH E BRITIS H . ..... ..... .. ... . ..... .. ... . .... . ... ... .... . ... . .. .. .. .. ... .... . ... . .... .. . . . 1 40
PA S SING TH E TOR C H . . .. . . . ... ... .. .... .. .. ..... .... . ... . .... . .. .... . . .. . ... . .... ... .... . ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... .. .. . . . 1 44
+ WOLFG ANG G ÜLLICH , ALL FOR THE F9 .. ..... .. ... .. ..... . ... .. .... . .. .... . ... . .... ... .. . . .... . ... . .... . . . . 1 46
IN TH E COMPE TITION ARE N A . ... .. ... . .. ... ..... .. ... . ..... ... .. .. .... . ... . ... . . .. ... . .... . ... . .... .. .. ... ..... .. . . . 1 52
+ C HRIS S H ARMA , TH E FIR S T ROC K S TA R . ..... .. .. . .. .. ...... .. ... .. ....... .... ..... .. .... .... . .. ........ .. . .
+ JO S UN E BERE ZIA R T U, THE FEMA LE 9th DEGREE ...... .. ... .. .. ..... ........ ... .. ...... ..... .. .... ....
DAV E GRA H AM TH E A RTIST ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... .. ..... ..... ...... .... . .. .... .... . .. .. ...... . .... ..... ...... ..... .....
S OLO .......... ....... .. .. . .. .. ...... ... .. ...... ..... .. ... ...... .. ... .. .... .. ... .. ...... ... .. ....... .... .. ... .. .. .. .... .. .. ..
+ ALE X HON NOL D, FA CING THE WA LL . ..... .. .. ... .. ...... .. ..... ...... ..... .... . .. .... .... . .. .. ...... . .. .. ...
CLIMBING, A CHILD’ S GA M E ? ...... ..... .. .. . .. .. ...... .. ... .. .. ... .... .. .. ... . . .... .. ... .. ........ . .. ........ ... .. .
FOR OLDIES TOO . .... ...... .. ... .. .. ....... .... .. . .... ...... .. ... . ..... ..... .. .... ..... .. .. . .. .... .. .. . .. .. .... .. . .. . . ...
I WOU LDN’ T TRUST HIM FURTH ER TH AN I COU LD ‘ SPIT ’ . .... ...... ..... .. .. . .. .... .... .. . .... ...... ..... . .
+ DE A N P OT T ER, THE MA N WHO WA NT ED TO F LY ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... .. ..... ..... ...... .... . .. .... .... . .. .
W H AT FUT URE FOR COM PE TITIONS ? . .... . .. .. ...... ..... .. ..... .......... . .......... . .... ........... .. ... ...... ..
PODIUMS A N D PEOPLE ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... .. ... .. .. ... .... .. .. ... . . .... .. ... .. ........ . .. ........... .. ......... .
TH E SPA NIS H WAVE ...... .. ... .. .. ..... ...... .. ... .. .. .... ... .. .. .... . .... .. ..... ........ . .. ........ .. . .. ...... .. . .. .. .
BOULDE RING TOO (W ITH A S M ALL F GRA DE ) . .... . .. .. ..... ...... .. .... . ...... ..... .... ....... .... ... .. ...... .
TH E BOU LDER A ND FOR A FE W E X TRA MOVES . .... . .. .. ..... ...... .. ... .. .......... . ........... .... ..........
A CON N ECTE D N ET WORK ...... ..... .. .. . .. .. ........ ... .. ..... ...... .. ... . ..... .. .. . .. .... .... . .. .. ...... . .. .. ..... ..
ME AN W HILE, ON T H E CLIFF S.. . ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ........ ... .. ..... ...... .. ... . ..... .. .. . .. .... .... . .. .. ....... .
+ AD AM ONDR A , T HE BE S T OF THREE WOR LD S . .... ...... ..... .. .. ... ........ .. .. ... .... .. ..... . . ... ......
+ TOMM Y C A LD WELL AND D AWN WA LL , MAK ING HI STOR Y ...... .. ... .. .. ... .. ........ ... .. ...... ..... .
IT ’ S A LWAYS BE T TE R A S A COUPLE ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... ..... .. ... .. .. .... ... .. .. .... .... . .. ............. ..........
K A LYM NOS, S UN, S E A A ND ROCK ...... .. ... .. .. ... .. ........ ... .. ...... ..... .. .... ..... .. .. . .. .... .... . .. .. ...... .
T H E C RAF TS M E N OF TH E F UT URE . .... ...... ..... .. .. . .. ........ .. ..... .... .. ..... . . ... ...... .. ... .. .... .. ... .. ...
GRADUAL S HIF TS IN E THICS . .... ... .. ...... .. .. . .. .... .... ... .... ..... ...... . .... ...... .. ... ...... .. ... .. .... ..... .
ABOUT TH E RO CK AN D M E N ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... ..... .. ... .. .. .... ... .. .. .... .... . .. ............. ... ........ .. . .. ...
03 THE AMAZ ING DEC ADE . ... .. . ... .. ...... .. .. ... .. ... ..... ... . .... .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... . .... ... .. .. .... .. . . . .. 9 4
05 T HE WORLD CONNECTS . .... ...... .. ... .. .. ... .... .... .. . .... ...... .. ... . ..... ..... .. ... ...... .. .. . .. .... .. .. 2 10
ONC E U P ON A TIM E IN TH E ‘ VA LLE Y ’ .. .. ..... .. . ..... ...... .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... . .... . .. . ... . .. .. ... ..... ... . . . . . . . 4 7
+ ROYAL R OBBINS , TH E UNCROW NED K ING OF YOS EMI T E .. .. .. ... ... ... .. ... .. ...... .. .... . ... .... . . . . . 5 0
M E AN WHILE, ON A S M ALL IS L AN D... .. .. ..... .. . ..... ... .. . ..... . ... . .... . ... .. . .... . . .. . ... . .. .. ... ..... .... . . . . . 5 4
+ CL AUDIO BAR BIER, A DAY TO GO DOWN IN HIS TORY . ... ... .. ... ... .. ...... .. .. ... . ... . .... ... .. .. . . .. . . 5 8
+ REIN HOL D ME S S N ER, F IR ST CLIM BER, TH EN A MO UNTAINEE R .. .. ..... .. . ..... ...... .. ... .... . . .. . 6 2
+ J OH N GILL , AT THE ROOTS OF TH E MOVEMENT .. .. ... ... .. ... . ...... ... .. ... .. .. .... . ... . .... . .. . .. .. .. . . . 6 4
T H E EM E RGE NC E OF FRANC E .. .. ..... . .. ..... ... .. . ..... . ... ..... ... .... .... . . .. . .... . ... ... . ... . ... . .... .. .. ... . .. . . 6 6
DE EP GORGE S . . . . . . . .. .. . . . . .. ...... ... .. .... . ... . ... . ... ... . .. .. . ... . .... .... ... ..... ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... . ... . ... .. . .. . 6 8
BRITAIN IS BACK . . ... . .. . . . ....... .... ... .. . ..... ... .. .. .... . ... .. ... ... .... .... . ... . .... . .. .... . ... . ... . .... .. .. ... . . .. .. 7 2
ONC E U P ON A TIM E IN TH E E A ST .. .. .. ... ... ... .. ... .. ...... .. .... . ... . .... .... .. . . ... .... . ... . ... . ... ..... ... . . . . . . 7 6
+ THE T WO S IDE S OF TH E IRON C UR TAIN, BERND A R NOL D A ND HEN RY B ARBER .. .. ... .. . . . . .. 7 8
AM E RIC AN INSPIRATION . . ....... .. .. ...... .. ... . ..... ... .. .. . ... . ... . .... . .. .... . ... . .... ... ... . .... . ... . .... ..... . . . .. 8 2
+ J OH N BACH A R, A N D TH E S TONE MA ST ER S .. .. ..... ... ... .. ... ..... .. ... . .... . .. .... . ... . ... . .... .. . .... . . . . 8 4
T H E ‘ VA LL E Y ’ A LWAYS IN TH E LE A D .. .. ..... .. . ... .. ... .. ... .. .... .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... ..... ... . ... . .. .. ... . .. . . 8 6
H E ADING FOR TH E E IGH TH GRA DE . ... ... .. ... ... .. ... .. . ...... . .... . ... . .... .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... . ... .... . ... . .. . 8 8
T H E RE VOLUTION OF BOULDE RING . ... ... .. ... ... .. ... .. . ...... . .... . ... . .... .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . ... . ... .... . ... . .. . 9 0
T H E EULOGY OF FALLING .. ... .. ... . ..... .. ... ... ... ..... ... .. .. .... . ... . .. .. . ... ... .... . ... . .... .. . .... . ... . ... . . . . . . . 9 1
TH E INSPIRATION OF ‘ TH E S E VE N TH GRA DE ’ .. ..... .. .... .. .. ... .. ... .. ... . ... . ... .. .. .... . ... . .... ... ... .. .. . . . 9 2
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02 THE BIRT H OF A S P ORT .. .. ..... .. .. ... ... ...... . ... . .... .... ... ..... ... . . .. . ... . ... . .... ... ... . .... . ... . . .. . . . 4 5
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T H E E NGLIS H GE N TLEM AN A LWAYS CLIMBS F IRST. CLIMB W HE N YOU’ RE RE A DY .. .. ... .. ..... . . . . . 1 7
CLIMBING ON GRITSTON E .. ....... . ... ...... .. ... .. ... . .... .... ... ..... ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... . ... . ... . .... ... .. .. . . .. . 2 2
. . .AN D CLIMBING ON LIM E STON E .. .. .. .. ...... .. ..... ... . .. .... . ... . .... .... ... ... . . ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... .. .. . .. . . 2 6
+ PAUL P REUS S , THE LE GE NDARY FO UN DER .. ..... .. .... .... ... ..... ... .. .. . ... . ... . .... ... .. . . .... . ... . . .. . 2 8
A F TE R TH E F IRST WOR LD WAR . ..... .. .... .. ...... ..... ... .. .. . ... . ... . .... . .. .. .. . ... . .... ... ... . .... . ... . ..... .. . . . 3 0
T H E C RAZ Y 1930 s . . . .. . .. . . . ........ ... . ... ... . ... ... . .... . ... . .... .... ... ..... ... .. .. . ... . ... . .... ... ... . .... . ... . .. . . . . 3 2
+ EMILIO C OMICI, P OR TRAIT OF THE AR T IS T A S A CLIM BER .. .. .... .... ... .. ... .. ... ...... ... . .... . . . . . 3 4
MAGIC MUS H ROOMS ROUN D PA RIS . .... ...... .. ... . ....... .. ... . ... ..... ... .... .... . ... . .... . ... ... .... . ... . .. . . .. . 4 0
T H E MON U M E N TAL ‘ACTION DIR ECT E’ ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ....... .... .. ..... ...... .. ... . ..... .. .. . .. .... .... . .. .. .
A WOM A N AT TH E TOP OF TH E WOR LD . .... . .. .. ...... ..... .. .... . ...... .... . .... ...... . .... ..... ...... ..... .....
+ LY NN HILL , IT GO E S BOY S! ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ....... .... .. ..... ...... .. ... . ..... .. .. . .. .... ..... .. .. ... .... ..
+ ALE X A NDER HU BER, M ADE IN GERMA N Y . ..... .. .. ... .. ...... .. ... .. ........... ....... .... .... . .. ........ .
T H E CLIMBE RS R E BE L . .... ...... ..... .. .. . .. ........ .. ..... .... ....... . . ... ...... .. ... .. .... .. ... .. ...... ... .. ...... .
+ ST EFAN GLOWACZ , FR OM PL A S TIC TO A NTA R CT IC A ...... .. .. . .. .. ..... ...... .. ... .. .. .... ... .. .. .... ..
C H AMPIONS OF T HE WA LLS. .... ...... .. ... .. .. ... .... .... .. . .... ...... ..... .. .... ..... .. ... ...... .. .. . .. .... .. .. . .. .
+ YU J I HIRAYA MA , A CLIMBE R FROM THE E A ST ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ....... .... .. ..... ...... .. ... . ..... .. .. .
F RE NCH SUPREM ACY ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... ..... .. ... .. .. .... ... .. .. .... ..... .. ............. ... ........ .. . .. ...... .. . .. .
A NOT S O N ATUR AL RO CK A F T E R ALL ... . .... . .. .. ..... ...... .. ... .. .......... . ........... .... ... ........ .. . .. ...
NE W DE VE LOPME NT . .... ... .. ...... .. .. . .. ........ ....... ........... . . ... ...... .. ... .. .... .. ... .. ..... .... .. ..... .....
TH E A KIRA C A S E ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ........ ... .. ..... ...... .. ... . ..... .. .. . .. .... .... . .. .. ....... .. .. ..... .... .. ... . . ..
A FRAGILE H ERITAGE ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... .. ..... ..... ...... .... . .. .... .... . .. .. ...... . .... ..... ...... ..... ...... .. . .. .
BUOUX, CEÜ S E, SIU RA N A , E ND OF T HE MILLE NNIUM CLIF FS ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ....... .... .. . .... ......
C H ARIS M ATIC A LLY YOUR S ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ........... .. .. ... .... .. .. ... . . .... .. ... .. ......... .. ..... ...... .. . .. ...
+ FRE D NIC OLE , GENT LE ST R ENGTH . .... ..... ...... .. .. . .. ........ ....... .... ....... . . ... ...... .. ... .. .... .. ..
A N DA LUSIAN MISTS ..... ...... .. .. . .. .. ....... .... .. . .... ...... .. ... . ..... .. ... .. .... ..... .. .. ... .... .. .. . .. .. .... .. . ..
CITI US, A LTIUS, FORTI US, F RE E CLIMBING TAK E S OVE R . ..... .. .. ... .. ...... .. ... .. ....... .... ....... .... .
T H E T URN OF T HE CE NT URY ...... .. .. . .. .. ...... ..... .. ... .. .. .... ... .. .. .... ..... .. ............. ... ........ .. . .. ..
01 THE TIME OF ADVE NTURE . ...... .. ... ....... . .. ... ..... . ... . .... .... ... .... . ... . .... .. .. ... .... . ... . ... . .. . . 1 5
04 TIME FOR NINE ...... .. ... .. .. ... .. ........ ... .. ...... ..... .. .... ..... .. .. ... .... .... . .. .. ...... . .. .. ...... ... .. .... . 1 54
FORE WORD . . . .. . ... . . .. . . . .. . .......... .. .. .. .. . ... . .. .. ... . .... ... .. .. .... . ... . .... . ... .. . .... . ... . ... . .. .. ... ...... . .. .. . 1 1
1
PRE AMBLE . . ... . .. . . . .. . . . .. . ... ...... .. .... .... . ... . .... . .. . ... . ... . ... . .... .. . .... . ... . .... .. .. ... ..... ... .. . . .... .. .. .. . . . 9
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TH E
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A DVE N TURE
16
17
-YLLJSPTIPUN^HZKLÄULK`LHYZHNVPUV\YIVVRLe 8ème degré (The 8th Grade)
in words which still apply: ‘When the climber uses only their hands and feet on the
unevenness of the rock to progress. The protection points are only there for the climber’s
safety in case of a fall but they are not used as an aid to progress and stopping or
resting on them is forbidden. It is up to the climber to make the most of what the rock
VќLYZ;OL[LYTºMVYIPKKLU»PUKPJH[LZ[OH[MYLLJSPTIPUNKVLZUV[TLHUJSPTIPUN^P[OV\[
rules. There are rules and they should be obeyed. From being just a physical activity,
in this way, free climbing has acquired the status of a sport’.
CLIMBING,
THAT IS, ASCENDING STEEP OR EVEN VERTICAL TERRAIN USING
JUST YOUR HANDS AND FEET, IS PROBABLY AN ACTIVITY AS ANCIENT
AS HUMANITY ITSELF. GATHERING FOOD, HUNTING, SPIRITUAL
AND RELIGIOUS QUESTS AND, MORE MUNDANELY, THE NEED FOR
PROTECTION FROM WILD ANIMALS, BAD WEATHER AND HOSTILE
GROUPS HAVE, SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL, LED PEOPLE TO SEEK
OUT HIGH PLACES THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO REACH. FROM FUNERAL
SITES PERCHED HIGH UP CLIFFS IN AFRICA, SUCH AS THOSE OF
BANDIAGARA, TO THE ANASAZI AMERINDIANS AND THE GATHERERS
OF SWALLOWS’ NESTS OR HONEY IN ASIA, THE BOLDNESS WHICH
DROVE THESE PIONEERS AND THE CLOSE RELATIONSHIP THEY HAD
DEVELOPED WITH THE ROCKS IS STILL ASTONISHING.
PAGE 14:
RUDOLF FERHMANN ON THE THREE FINGERS TOWER,
The birth of rock-climbing as a leisure and sporting activity goes back to the
late 19th century, originating in Europe in various locations far apart from each other.
In those ‘heroic’ times equipment was rudimentary and often cobbled together, so
rock-climbing was a dangerous passion attracting bold, adventurous people.
ELBSANDSTEINGEBIRGE, 1917.
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PAGE 16:
LEF T: OW E N GLYN NE J ON E S ON DE R BYS HIRE,
GRITSTONE, 1888.
CENTRE: JAMES W. PUTTRELL (1868–1939), GRITSTONE
PIONEER, 1885.
RIGHT: BOULDERING SESSION, FEET LEADING! MOSE-
T H E E NGLIS H GE N T LE MA N A LWAYS
CLIMBS FIRST.
CLIMB W H E N YOU’ RE RE ADY.
DALE, LAKE DISTRICT, UK, 1890.
The British had been visiting the Alps throughout the 19th century and it was during
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England, then still a wild and unfrequented region, the new middle and upper classes
discovered the pleasure of outdoor activities during their summer holidays. The Lake
District and the Peak District (both National Parks today) were the birthplace of British
YVJRJSPTIPUN ;OV\NO H[ ÄYZ[ [OPZ ^HZ ZPTWS` H TH[[LY VM JSHTILYPUN HIV\[ VU [OL
outcrops, some of these adventurers, most of them young, soon became much bolder.
-YVT [OL U\TILY VM JSPTIZ UH[\YHSS` [OL` ^LYL HSS ÄYZ[ HZJLU[Z NYHK\HSS`
increased, with or without a rope. That said, the almost complete absence of protection
made it very dangerous for the leader, even when roped.
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CRAG.
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EARLY BRITISH CLIMBERS RELAXING AT A GRITSTONE
At the same time and in the same place, a charismatic character emerged:
Oscar Eckenstein. Looking like a cross between an old sea-dog and an Old Testament
prophet he was a man of many talents and an adventurous explorer. In 1902 he led
[OLÄYZ[ZLYPV\ZL_WLKP[PVUH[[LTW[PUN[VJSPTI2[OLZLJVUKOPNOLZ[TV\U[HPUPU[OL
world, accompanied by his friend, the occultist Aleister Crowley who was also a bold
JSPTILYVU[OLJOHSRJSPќZVM[OL:\ZZL_JVHZ[,JRLUZ[LPU^HZ[OLPU]LU[VYVMJYHTWVUZ
and the modern short ice axe. Extremely strong (he could do one-arm pull-ups), he
was one of the founders of bouldering, a form of rock-climbing requiring balance and
a command of footholds and grips on boulders a few metres high and in this respect
was several decades ahead of his time. The volcanic rocks of the Lake District and
Wales were ideal for this type of climbing.
19
18
>7/HZRL[[:TP[O^HZHU\UKLYNYHK\H[LH[6_MVYK<UP]LYZP[`^OVÄYZ[]PZP[LK
the Lake District in 1881 with some university friends. Being athletic, he enjoyed
JSPTIPUN [OL YVJRZ PU [OL ]PJPUP[` ^P[OV\[ HU` LX\PWTLU[ UV[HIS` ^P[OV\[ YVWLZ /L
must have enjoyed the sport because he returned year after year, tackling increasingly
KHYPUNJSPTIZPU^OPJO[OLYL^HZUVYVVTMVYLYYVY/PZTVTLU[VMNSVY`JHTLPU
with Napes Needle, a sharply pointed arrow-shaped rock which had defeated so many
attempts that some compared his eventual conquest of it to that of the Matterhorn two
KLJHKLZLHYSPLY0U[OLLUK^P[OV\[HU`HY[PÄJPHSHPKHUK^P[OV\[HU`ILSH`PUN/HZRL[[
Smith reached the summit, where his photograph was taken in the traditional manner.
As a result he was hailed as the founder of British rock-climbing, ‘by fair means’,
a reasonable description since it really was free climbing with bare hands.
A few years later, the technical level was raised further by a London professor,
6^LU.S`UUL1VULZ/H]PUNHSS[OLX\HSP[PLZVMHTVKLYUJSPTILYZ[YLUN[OHNPSP[`HUK
KHYPUN OL WYLMLYYLK [V MVJ\Z TVYL VU [OL PU[YPUZPJ KPѝJ\S[` VM H YV\[L [OHU VU [OL
conquest of a new peak. In this respect he was similar to Eckenstein but he was very
KPќLYLU[^OLUP[JHTL[V[HSRPUNHIV\[P[-VYº6.»JSPTIPUN^HZHWLYMLJ[VWWVY[\UP[`
to publicise himself, while Eckenstein, like his friend Crowley, saw it mainly as an inner,
personal achievement. In 1897 OG set his heart on a wide crack some 20 metres high,
the Kern Knotts Crack. In order to climb it free, he chose to practise it on a top-rope.
This new technique enabled him to master it very quickly. It is interesting that even then,
some people were already condemning these practices as unfair, because they deviated
from tradition. Today the crack is rated MVS (Mild Very Severe), the equivalent of a good
French 5. Owen Glynne Jones was the inventor of this English adjectival grading system
HUK OL W\ISPZOLK VUL VM [OL ÄYZ[ YVJRJSPTIPUN N\PKLIVVRZ [V [OPZ YLNPVU ^OPJO KPK
much to popularise this new sport.
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NYP[Z[VULJSPќVM>OHYUJSPќL,KNLVU[OLV\[ZRPY[ZVM:OLѝLSK6U[OLZLJSPќZZLSKVTTVYL
than 15m high, he developed ‘outcrop climbing’, in contrast to the objectives of Victorian
JSPTILYZ)LJH\ZLP[^HZLHZPS`YLHJOLKI`W\ISPJ[YHUZWVY[>OHYUJSPќL^HZWYVIHIS`
the most popular crag in the world on the eve of the 20th century with already over 100
routes. Progressing with limited safety measures and sometimes even on his own, he
L_WSVYLK[OLTVZ[VI]PV\ZJYHJRZMYLLJSPTIPUNV\YWYLZLU[KH`ÄM[ONYHKLZHUK^HZHSZVH
WPVULLY VM JH]PUN /L Z\IZLX\LU[S` ZWYLHK OPZ ^PUNZ JSPTIPUN PU >HSLZ [OL 3HRL
District, Scotland and as far as the Alps. Today he is recognised as one of the founding
fathers of climbing as a sport.
ABOVE LEFT: PINNACLE RIDGE ON AMPHITHEATER
BUTTRESS, CRAIG YR YSFA, WALES, UK, 1905.
ABOVE RIGHT: THE FAMOUS NAPES NEEDLE, LAKE
DISTRICT, PICTURED HERE IN 1961. HIS FIRST ASCENT
IN 1886 BY WALTER PARRY HASKETT SMITH WAS A
MILESTONE FOR CLIMBING IN BRITAIN.
BELOW, FROM LEFT: WALTER PARRY HASKETT SMITH
( 1859–194 6) , ON E OF TH E FATH E RS OF ROCKCLIMBING. / JAMES W. PUTTRELL (1868–1939). / OWEN
GLYNNE JONES (1867–1899). / OSKAR ECKENSTEIN
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(1859–1921).
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;OL V[OLY NYLH[ SLNLUK VM [OL WLYPVK ^HZ :PLNMYPLK /LYMVYK /PZ ^HZ HUV[OLY
meteoric rise, brutally brought short by the First World War. Born in 1891, he was a
disturbed child who would probably be described as hyperactive today but he was
L_[YLTLS`NVVKH[ZJPLUJL"Z[\K`PUNWO`ZPJZHUKTH[OLTH[PJZH[4HUJOLZ[LY<UP]LYZP[`
HUKILJVTPUNVULVM[OLÄYZ[LUNPULLYZZWLJPHSPZPUNPUHLYVUH\[PJZ([[OLHNLVM
^P[OOPZMYPLUKZ1VOU3H`JVJRHUK:[HUSL`1LќJVH[OLºYLPU]LU[LK»NYP[Z[VULJSPTIPUN
leaving the cracks and venturing onto the much more dangerous slabs. Like Paul
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Preuss, the practice of down-climbing, which seemed to him a guarantee of safety in
the event of it being impossible to move forward, would be carried out with just a piece
of rope round the waist or, often, even solo.
( YLTHYRHISL WOV[VNYHWO [HRLU PU I` [OL MHTV\Z TV\U[HPULLY .LVќYL`
>PU[OYVW@V\UNZOV^Z[OL`V\UNTHU/LYMVYKHJJVTWHUPLKI`.LVYNL3LPNO4HSSVY`
who 12 years later would be part of the greatest mystery in the history of climbing
when he and Andrew Irvine vanished near the summit of Mount Everest. The pinnacle
VM /LYMVYK»Z JHYLLY ^HZ [OL Flake Crack on Scafell, the second-highest ‘mountain’ in
England, in the Lake District which, today, still has a local grade of E1 5b, equivalent
[V H TVKLYU -H" [OPZ ^HZ JVTWHYHISL [V [OL TH_PT\T KPѝJ\S[PLZ MV\UK PU :H_VU
Switzerland at that time and by Paul Preuss in the Dolomites (see further on). Then in
1\S` [OL-PYZ[>VYSK>HYILNHUHUK/LYMVYKPU[OL\UPMVYTVM[OL9V`HS-\ZPSPLYZ
was killed by a shell in 1916.
In 1913, John Laycock wrote Some Gritstone Climbs, a rock-climbing guidebook
MVJ\ZPUN VU [OL ILZ[ JSPTIZ PU [OL 7LHR +PZ[YPJ[ 0U P[ OL KLZJYPILK MVY [OL ÄYZ[ [PTL
the incredible potential of climbing on gritstone which would be the cradle of the best
)YP[PZOJSPTILYZVM[OL[OJLU[\Y`HUK[OLSVJHSJP[`VM:OLѝLSKILJHTL[OLZWPYP[\HS
capital of British rock-climbing. Thus, one of the strongest rock-climbing traditions was
born which, with its strict ethics, continues today under the name of ‘trad’ (traditional).
0U JVU[YHZ[ ^P[O TVYL Y\NNLKS` TV\U[HPUV\Z JV\U[YPLZ PU [OL <UP[LK 2PUNKVT P[ PZ
normal to start with rock-climbing and then to move on to mountaineering.
ABOVE LEF T: SIEGFRIED HERFORD (1891–1916)
ON CASTLE NAZE, GRITSTONE, UK.
ABOVE RIGHT: SIEGFRIED HERFORD, DURING THE FIRST
ASCENT OF THE GREAT FLAKE, LAKE DISTRICT, 1914.
BELOW LEF T: SIEGF RIE D H ER FORD AN D GEORGE
MALLORY AT PEN Y PASS, 1912.
BELOW RIGHT: SIEGFRIED HERFORD CLIMBING THE
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MANTELSHELF, SCAFELL PINNACLE, 1914.
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02
TH E
BIRTH
OF A
S PORT
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ME AN WHILE,
ON A S MALL IS L AN D...
The British, living up to their legendary originality, also invented a rating scale with
two parts which is anything but clear and simple, however it is perfectly adapted to
[OLPY WOPSVZVWO` VM IVSKULZZ Z`Z[LTH[PJHSS` HZZVJPH[LK ^P[O [LJOUPJHS KPѝJ\S[` ZLL
appendix). It is hard to compare it to other scales because its progression is intentionally
]LY`JSVZL[V^HYKZ[OL[VWHUKHZPTPSHYYH[PUNJHUYLÅLJ[]HY`PUNKPѝJ\S[PLZ
In <UQ\Z[PÄHISL 9PZR&, a history of British climbing and mountaineering, Simon
Thompson gave a clear summary of the social evolution which has also taken place in
other Western countries: ‘Before the First World War and even in the years between the
wars, most top level climbers were middle-class if not upper-class, for whom climbing
^HZ H WSLHZHU[ WHZ[PTL I\[ SP[[SL TVYL (M[LY [OPZ [YHKP[PVU VM W\YL HTH[L\YPZT
declined. Greater specialisation has made the world of climbing less varied and perhaps
in some ways less interesting but there is no doubt that it has contributed to raising
its technical level. One of the most ironic aspects of the emergence of working class
people in the world of climbing is that as top climbers, many of them became professionals and worked less at conventional jobs than the more prosperous classes whom
they succeeded.’
In the early 1950s, the most famous climber was undoubtedly the young Joe
Brown, a trained plumber. Bold and visionary, especially in relation to climbing cracks
of variable widths, he was also one of those pioneers using nuts or chocks, wedgeshaped metal pieces with wire or rope attached which enabled belaying in cracks
instead of using pitons. This resulted in a faster, cleaner kind of climbing. From the
Peak District to Wales, Joe Brown made some immortal classic climbs such as Right
Eliminate, Cemetery Gates (E1 5b, 1951) and Cenotaph Corner (E1 5b, 1952).
/L VM[LU JSPTILK PU H YVWLK WHY[` ^P[O +VU >OPSSHUZ [OYLL `LHYZ `V\UNLY [OHU OPT
4VYLZVSPKHUKZ[VJRPLY>OPSSHUZHSZVL_WHUKLK[OLYHUNLVMKPѝJ\S[PLZVUNYP[Z[VULMVY
L_HTWSLPU ^P[OOPZÄYZ[HZJLU[VMGoliath)\YIHNL:V\[O,H[OLLX\P]HSLU[
of a F6c).
Nicknamed ‘The Baron’, Joe Brown was, like Royal Robbins on the other side of the
Atlantic, a methodical, reserved leader who had a very long career, making more than
ÄYZ[HZJLU[ZV]LYÄ]LKLJHKLZ>OPSSHUZVU[OLV[OLYOHUKRUV^UHZº;OL=PSSHPU»
(the title of his biography), was famous for his exuberance, like many climbers enjoying
H KYPUR PU [OL W\I HM[LY H OHYK KH`»Z JSPTIPUN /L KPLK PU 0U THU` ^H`Z OL PZ
YLTPUPZJLU[VM>HYYLU/HYKPUNHUK[OLVWWVZP[LVMOPZJVU[LTWVYHY`9V`HS9VIIPUZ
LEFT: DON WHILLANS (1933–1985), ‘THE VILLAIN’.
RIGHT: PETER CREW.
–
PAGE 54:
ABOVE: JOE BROWN.
BELOW: JOE BROWN DURING THE 60S AT CLOGWYN
DU’R ARDDU.
new places to climb, notably on the pleasant English, Scottish and Welsh coasts. For
L_HTWSL .VNHY[O VU /VS`OLHK 4V\U[HPU VU [OL PZSHUK VM (UNSLZL` H O\NL OLHKSHUK
V]LYSVVRPUN[OL0YPZO:LH^HZL_WSVYLKI`4HY[PU)V`ZLUHUK)Ha0UNSLPU 1\Z[
traversing under the crag above the sea is an adventure in its own right, surrounded
by seagulls and seals. Boysen was probably the most gifted climber of that period,
setting new standards in the Lake District and Wales with ascents such as Nexus
(E2 5b, on Dinas Mot, 1963), The Medlar,H The Skull,H HUK
Capital Punishment,JVU6N^LU»Z:\PJPKL>HSS 1
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In 1962, Pete Crew, a brilliant climber of 20 years old, made a big impression by
ILPUN[OLÄYZ[[VJSPTIGreat Wall,HVU*SVNN`PU:UV^KVUPH"HJSPTIVU^OPJO1VL
Brown himself had given up on two attempts, restricted by his decision to use no more
than two pitons per pitch. In the 1960s, a new generation was taking over, discovering
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;OL JSPќZ VM .VNHY[O L_WLYPLUJLK H NVSKLU HNL PU [OL SH[L Z
with gems such as Citadel,II`1HJR:[YLL[.LVќ)PY[SLZHUK
A Dream of White Horses /=: H I` ,K +Y\TTVUK HUK
Dave Pearce. In 1979, Drummond climbed Nelson’s Column in
London as a protest against apartheid in South Africa and in 1971,
still at Gogarth, Alan Rouse raised the bar climbing Positron (E5 6a),
[VKH`»ZLX\P]HSLU[[VHKVYH-HNYHKL!º;OLÄUHSWP[JOPZL_tremely impressive, requiring total commitment after the crux move’,
to quote the description in the 1977 Gogarth guidebook. Arriving
in one piece at the top of each of these pitches was an adventure
in itself and this achievement was followed by free-climbing and
L]LUZVSVÄYZ[HZJLU[Z
What all these legendary British climbers from the 1950s to the
1970s had in common was that they were better than anyone
else at being able to transfer the technical skills acquired on their
‘little’ lumps of rock and ice onto the highest mountains of the world.
-VYPUZ[HUJLPU 1VL)YV^U^HZ[OLÄYZ[[VJSPTI[OLT
Kangchenjunga, the third highest summit on earth and the following
year he climbed the challenging Muztagh Tower in the Karakoram
range. From the Central Pillar of the Frêney (Mont Blanc, 1961) to
the South Face of Annapurna (1970), the likes of Chris Bonington,
>OPSSHUZ ^P[O OPZ PSS\Z[YPV\Z JVTWHUPVUZ +V\NHS /HZ[VU HUK +V\N
Scott) were among the great climbers of the day. Whillans also
designed the eponymous sit-harness used by many young free
climbers in the 1980s and still in use today. Martin Boysen took part
in the great climbing expeditions of the time, including Trango Tower
and the South West Face of Everest (1975). As for Alan Rouse, an
outstanding and determined mountaineer, he died in the tragic summer of 1986 on the
ZSVWLZ VM 2 [OL ZLJVUK OPNOLZ[ TV\U[HPU VM [OL ^VYSK OH]PUN ILLU [OL ÄYZ[ )YP[PZO
mountaineer to reach its summit.
In the rest of Europe, except perhaps in the new German Democratic Republic,
a country about which there is less information for obvious reasons, climbing mostly
[VVRWSHJL^P[OHY[PÄJPHSHPK[OV\NOZVTLTHLZ[YVZTHKLHZJLU[Z^P[OK\IPV\ZWYV[LJtion. Georges Livanos, known as ‘Le Grec’, is well-known both for his climbing exploits
and his inimitable literary style: his book Au-delà de la verticale is a classic and he has
ZL[YLJVYKZMYVT[OL+VSVTP[LZ[V[OL*HSHUX\LZVM4HYZLPSSLZ/PZTHZ[LYWPLJLYLTHPUZ
his 1951 route on the Su Alto peak, at the heart of the enormous North West Face of
the Civetta in the Dolomites.
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BELOW: SONIA AND GEORGES LIVANOS (1923–2004).
ABOVE: ALAN ROUSE (1951–1986).
RIGHT: A DREAM OF WHITE HORSES, GOGARTH, 1968.
BELOW LEF T: MARTIN BOYSEN.
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ABOVE LEF T: GOGARTH, NORTH WALES.
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69
DE E P GORGE S
([[OLOLHY[VM[OL(SWLZKL/H\[L7YV]LUJL[OLJSPќZVM[OL=LYKVU.VYNLHYLILH\[PM\S
to look at but they also command respect because of their height of up to 300m and their
PZVSH[PVU+PZJV]LYLKI`JSPTILYZPU [OLÄYZ[YV\[LZ^LYL[OLVI]PV\ZVULZ[OLNYLH[
JYHJRZVM[OL,ZJHSuZJSPќ!La Demande in 1968, the Éperon Sublime and Luna-Bong in
.\`/tYHU-YHUsVPZ.\PSSV[HUK1VwS*VX\L\NUPV[^LYLZVVUQVPULKI`)LYUHYK
Gorgeon and his friends: Jacques Nosley, Jacques Keller and the guide Pepsi.
(UH[P]LVM4HYZLPSSLZ-YHUsVPZ.\PSSV[^HZ[OLTVZ[[HSLU[LK/LSLHYULKOPZZRPSSZ
in the nearby Calanques, that ‘sea and mountain’ paradise which earlier on had proK\JLK SLNLUKZ Z\JO HZ .HZ[VU 9tI\ќH[ HUK .LVYNLZ 3P]HUVZ 0U [OL WVZ[^HY `LHYZ
this enormous white limestone massif rising from the Mediterranean became the most
active climbing centre in the South of France. There, climbers experimented on the vertical rock and all the techniques which subsequently were so successful in the Verdon. In
[OL*HSHUX\LZVYPU*OHTVUP_[OLÄYZ[YLWLH[VM[OLDirecte américaine aux Drus), Guillot
HUKOPZJVTWHUPVUZ[HJRSLK[OLTVZ[KPѝJ\S[P[PULYHYPLZPUYLJVYK[PTLZHUKTH[JOLKPU
free-climbing the level achieved by Messner in the Dolomites at the same time. Guillot’s
career has been long and varied and included the rescue of German climbers in the Drus
in 1966 plus expeditions to the West Pillar of Makalu in Nepal and FitzRoy in Patagonia)
and today he is still an active and accomplished modern free climber.
In the early 1970s climbers were attracted by the big aid-climbing walls such as
the Paroi Rouge, the Mousson, the Castapiagne Rouge. The legend of the Verdon was
born: stark shapes and perfect verticality, everything contributed to the international
YLW\[H[PVUVM[OLNVYNL([ÄYZ[P[^HZ[OL[LYYPM`PUNJYHJRZ^OPJOTHKL[OLOLHKSPULZ
CLAUDE CASSIN AND FRANÇOIS GUILLOT, VERDON,
1968.
–
PAGE 69:
ABOVE LEFT: FRANÇOIS GUILLOT.
CENTRE LEFT: CHRISTIAN GUYOMAR (1948–2011),
FREE-CLIMBING ON LES DEUX AIGUILLES, ONLY
PROTECTED WITH SKYHOOKS.
ABOVE LEFT: RON FAWCETT FREEING LE TRIOMPHE
D’ÉROS, MOUNTAIN COVER, 1978.
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RIGHT: L’ESCALÈS, CROWN OF THE VERDON GORGES.