NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC

NIKKOL PUREPHOS
Series
NIKKOL PUREPHOS Series
NIKKOL
PUREPHOS α
PUREPHOS LC
Structure
L-Arginine
acid type
(non-neutralized)
neutralized with L-Arginine
INCI
Cetyl Phosphate
Arginine Hexyldecyl Phosphate
CHINA
INCI
○
×
*Mono alkyl content >90%
NIKKOL PUREPHOS Series
NIKKOL
State of
aqueous
solution
PUREPHOS α
α-Gel
PUREPHOS LC
Liquid
crystal
(with Arginine)
☞Hold a huge amount of water
☞Forms the lamellar liquid
crystal easily(0～100℃)
Efficacy
High occlusive effect
Improvement of wrinkle &
skin texture
Anti-pollution effect
High moisturizing effect
Aplication
Moisture-rich gel, Milk,
Cream, etc
Lotion, Essence,
Oil Gel, etc
α-Gel & Liquid crystal
Free Water
Bond Water
Coagel
(Hydrate crystal)
α-Gel
Human
intercellular lipid
LC
Intercellular Lipid
( Image )
Polarizing microscope image
（Basic study）
Behavior of anionic surfactant
&
What is α-gel?
Behavior of surfactant solution
溶存状態
a
l
親水性
C
（Concentration）
充填パラメーター
会合構造
v/al1/3
構造
球 状
v
Tc曲線：みかけの溶解度曲線
ミセル
Tc curve
Ⅱ
Ⅰ
（Coagel）
（Micell）
1/3v/la  1/2
ｃｍｃ曲線：単分散溶解飽和濃度曲線
v/al1/3
クラフト点：３相が共存する３重点
a
v
cmc curve
液 晶
Ⅰ
（Monomer）
親油性
ＫＰ
Dissolves easily above the
T （温度）
Krafft temperature.
棒 状
逆ミセル
キュービック
1/3 v/la  1/2
ヘキサゴナル
1/2 v/al 1
キュービック
v/al 1
ラメラ
1  v/al
キュービック
1  v/al
逆ヘキサ
ゴナル
1  v/al
キュービック
1  v/al
球状
l
Crystals & Liquid Crystals (Usual surfactant）
Heating
TC
Coagel
Liquid crystal
Cooling
orthorhombic
Crystal
(Coagel)
Liquid crystal
Point
TC：Melting point of
hydrophobic part
Endo
(ＤＳＣ)
Phase transition temperature
Melting point of hydrophobic part
What is α-gel?
cooling
TC
α-gel
Position
α-Gel
Point
Liquid crystal
Fix
Mobility : Rotation
Liquid crystal
Moving
Free moving
Both structures are holding water between the lamellar layers
・α-gel：crystal
・LC：between crystal and liquid
Usually, α-gel is unstable.
α-gel forming agent that gives a new feel to products
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
表示名称 リン酸セチル
INCI
CHINA
INCI
Cetyl Phosphate
○
α-Gel
Specific features of
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α with Arginine
Forms an extremely stable α-gel by neutralizing with Larginine.
Can emulsify various cosmetic oils regardless of their type or
polarity.
Inhibits crystallization of poorly soluble lipids.
Can give the unique, light feel of α-gel to products.
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α with
Arginine formed stable α-Gel
☞α-gel formation：below the Tc, wide concentration
Normally, below the Tc,
water & surfactant will
separate
(crystalize)
クラフト点以下でも層間
に多量の水を自然に膨潤
Stable
α-Gel
（Purephos α with L-Arginine）
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α with
Arginine
After 3month @ RT
Left : NIKKOL PUREPHOS α + KOH 5% solution
Right : NIKKOL PUREPHOS α + Arginine 5% solution
Neutralized
with KOH
Neutralized
with Arginine
Need
Stable
Arginine
α-Gel
With KOH
（Crystalized）
With Arginine
（α-Gel）
Water
Crystal
α-Gel
Stabilization of polar lipids
A
B
Ingredients
A
B
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
2.0
2.0
L-Arginine
1.0
1.0
Cetanol
3.0
3.0
1.0
NIKKOL Chimyl alcohol
Water
to 100
to 100
Able to stabilize/incorporate polar lipids such as cetanol
in an aqueous formulation
Performance of
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
How to Use
Emulsifying
ability
Emulsification
procedures
Effect of
・Oil
・Salt
・pH
・Fatty alcohol
Efficacy
＆Safety
・Improvement
of wrinkle &
Skin texture
・Anti pollution
・occlusive
・safety
How to Use
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
Dissolve PUREPHOS α in the oil phase
Dissolve the neutralizer, L-arginine,
in the aqueous phase
Use Homomixier
Add water phase to oil phase
Can use the
paddle mixier
Check
the
stability
carefully
Performance of
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
How to Use
Emulsifying
ability
Emulsification
procedures
Effect of
・Oil
・Salt
・pH
・Fatty alcohol
Efficacy
＆Safety
・Improvement
of wrinkle &
Skin texture
・Anti pollution
・occlusive
・safety
Emulsifying ability
-oil types and oil amountIngredient
NIKKOL Purephos α
Cetanol
Liquid oils
L-Arginine
Xanthan gum
Glycerin
Water
配合量
(wt.%)
1.30
3.00
x
0.70
0.30
5.00
to 100
X
Can emulsify various
cosmetic oils
If you want to maintain the viscosity,
you can use the fatty alcohol or
water-soluble polymer.
※1 ○：after 1 month, 45℃, no separation, viscosity reduction
※2 ◎：after 1 month, 45℃, no separation
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
○
○
◎
◎
◎
NIKKOL Sugar Squalane
○
○
◎
◎
◎
NIKKOL Macadamia nut oil
○
○
◎
◎
◎
Dimethicone(6cs)
○
○
◎
◎
◎
Cyclopentasiloxane
○
○
◎
◎
◎
Emulsifying ability
-Effect of cosmetic oils on the
viscosity-
Viscosity increases due to the oil content
Emulsifying ability
-Effect of FattyalcoholIngredient
NIKKOL Purephos α
Cetanol
wt.%
1.30
X
Squalane
10.00
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
10.00
L-Arginine
0.70
Xanthan gum
0.30
1,3-BG
5.00
Glycerin
5.00
Water
Cetanol
content
0%
1%
3%
5%
7%
9%
45℃, 1month
△
△
○
○
○
○
○ : Initial, OK / after 1 month, 45℃, no separation
△ : Initial, OK / after 1 month, 45℃, separation
to 100
Cetanol content(%)
Cetanol increase the viscosity and stabilize the emulsion
Emulsifying ability
-Effect of pHIngredient
wt.%
NIKKOL Purephos α
1.30
Cetanol
3.00
Squalane
10.00
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
10.00
L-Arginine
0.70
Xanthan gum
0.30
Buffer*
x
1,3-BG
5.00
Glycerin
5.00
Water
to 100
pH
3.5
4.6
5.2
7.0
7.4
Emulsion
state
×
○
○
○
○
〇：Emulsifiable ×：Unemulsifiable
Prepare the formulation
between
pH 4.5 to pH 7.5
Citric acid/Sodium Citrate
Emulsifying ability
-Effect of electrolytesIngredient
wt.%
NIKKOL Purephos α
1.30
Cetanol
3.00
Squalane
10.00
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
10.00
L-Arginine
0.70
Xanthan gum
0.30
NaCl or MgSO4
X
1,3-BG
5.00
Glycerin
5.00
Water
to 100
Salts
0.25%
0.50%
1.00%
1.50%
NaCl
○
○
○
×
MgSO4
×
×
×
×
〇：Emulsifiable ×：Unemulsifiable
emulsification becomes impossible
・NaCl > 1%
・MgSO4 ≧ 0.25%
Instructions for Use of NIKKOL
PUREPHOS α
Dissolve NIKKOL PUREPHOS α in the oil phase.
L-arginine: a quantity approximately equivalent to
half of the NIKKOL PUREPHOS α.
A usage amount of 0.5-5.0 wt% is recommended.
Avoid excessive addition of electrolytes as it will
affect emulsification
To stabilize the viscosity, add a water-soluble polymer,
or a fatty alcohol.
Performance of
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
How to Use
mulsifying
ability
Emulsification
procedures
Effect of
・Oil
・Salt
・pH
・Fatty alcohol
Efficacy
＆Safety
・Improvement
of wrinkle &
Skin texture
・Anti pollution
・Occlusive
・safety
Improvement of wrinkle
(instant result)
Test Formulation
Ingredients
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
PUREPHOS
α
2.00
POLYSORBATE-60
試験条件
試験製剤
CETEARYL ALCOHOL
PUREPHOSα含有製剤
プラセボ製剤
Placebo
5.00
3.00
3.00
SQUALANE
10.00
10.00
10.00
10.00
被験者数
男性6名
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE
測定部位
左右半顔ずつ
CARBOMER
塗布時間
30分 (即効性)
ARGININE
1.00
0.20
PHENOXYETHANOL
0.40
0.40
測定方法
画像診断(VISIA Evolution)
-明瞭なシワの個数
To 100.00
To 100.00
WATER
0.20
Improvement of wrinkle
(instant result)
**
*
Purephos α
*;p<0.05
**;p<0.01
Placebo
Improve the wrinkle immediately
Improvement of wrinkle
(instant result)
Plascebo
PUREPHOS α
Before apply
In 30 min
after apply
Improve the wrinkle immediately
Improvement of the
skin's texture
(instant result)
Test Formulation
Ingredients
NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
PUREPHOS
α
2.00
POLYSORBATE-60
試験条件
Test
PUREPHOSα含有製剤
プラセボ製剤
被験者数
男性5名
測定部位
前腕屈側部
脱脂方法
アセトン/エーテル (カップ法)
40分間
塗布時間
測定方法
CETEARYL ALCOHOL
Placebo
5.00
3.00
3.00
SQUALANE
10.00
10.00
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE
10.00
10.00
CARBOMER
0.20
ARGININE
1.00
0.20
30分 (即効性)
PHENOXYETHANOL
0.40
0.40
マイクロスコープ
WATER
To 100.00
To 100.00
Improvement of the
skin's texture
アセトン/エーテル
脱脂後
(instant result)
製剤塗布30分後
製剤塗布30分後
(2値化)
PUREPHOS
α
Placebo
Improve the skin’s texture immediately
Anti-pollution effect
**
Sample
DPE
*;p<0.05
**;p<0.01
*
Episkin LM
24h
MTT
DPE; Diesel particulate Extract
Purephos α
Placebo
Can protect the skin from the pollution
Safety Information
of NIKKOL PUREPHOS α
Human patch test
Sensitization test
Safety product
Negative
(20 volunteers, 24h
closed patch, 10%
arginine aq.)
(62 volunteers, RIPT
method, 10% arginine
aq.)
AMES & Eye Irritation are being conducted
Moisture Cream
(NIKKOL PUREPHOS α : 1.40%)
INCI
Ingredient
A
Cetyl phosphate
NIKKOL Purephos α
Glyceryl Stealate
NIKKOL MGS-BV2
Batyl alcohol
NIKKOL Batyl alcohol EX
Cetanol
Squalane
NIKKOL SugarSqualane
Dimethicone
B
Arginine
Glycerin
BG
Preservative
Water
Procedure
1. Heat A and B to dissolve.
2. Add B to A with homomixer mixing.
3. After mixing, cool down to RT with stirring.
Note
pH（10%, 25℃）： 6.5～7.5
Viscosity (B type, No.4, 6rpm, 30sec.)：75000～85000 mPa・s
wt.%
1.40
1.00
1.00
3.50
6.00
17.00
0.70
5.00
5.00
q.s.
To 100
。
Milk Essence
(NIKKOL PUREPHOS α : 0.70%)
INCI
Ingredient
A
Cetyl phosphate
NIKKOL Purephos α
Batyl alcohol
NIKKOL Batyl alcohol EX
Cetanol
Squalane
NIKKOL Sugar Squalane
Dimethicone
B
Arginine
Glycerin
BG
Xanthan gum(2 % solution)
Preservative
Water
Procedure
1. Heat A and B to dissolve.
2. Add B to A with homomixer mixing.
3. After mixing, cool down to RT with stirring.
Note
pH（10%, 25℃）： 6.5～7.5
Viscosity (B type, No.4, 6rpm, 30sec.)：2500～4500 mPa・s
wt.%
0.70
0.50
1.50
2.00
2.00
0.35
5.00
3.00
10.00
q.s.
To 100
しっとりもっちり、潤い密封ジェル状化粧水
Pure Gel Lotion
INCI NAME
CETYL PHOSPHATE
BATYL ALCOHOL
CETYL ALCOHOL
SQUALANE
DIMETHICONE
ARGININE
GLYCERIN
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
BETAINE
SODIUM HYALURONATE,WATER
CARBOMER
preservative
WATER
TRADE NAME
A Phase
NIKKOL Purephos α
NIKKOL Batyl Alcohol EX
NIKKOL Sugar Squalane
KF-96A-6cs
B Phase
PUREPHOSの中和 : 0.35%
カルボマーの中和 : 0.15%
(1%a.q.)
Carbopol 981
C Phase
WATER,GLYCERIN,CITRULLUS VULGARIS
(WATERMELON) FRUIT EXTRACT,PYRUS
AquaSpeed
MALUS (APPLE) FRUIT EXTRACT,SODIUM
PCA,SODIUM LACTATE
PROPANEDIOL,WATER,RHAMNOSE,GLUCOS
Teflose
E,GLUCURONIC ACID
WATER
wt%
0.700
0.500
1.500
2.000
3.000
0.500
10.000
5.000
0.500
1.000
0.150
q.s.
to 100
1.000
1.000
5.000
25% Shea Butter
*Now investigating
the stability
DEEP MOISTURE BUTTER
INCI NAME
CETYL PHOSPHATE
CETYL ALCOHOL
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA
BUTTER) FRUIT
unknown
DIMETHICONE
DIMETHICONE
HYDROGENATED
RETINOL,CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE
ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN,GLYCERYL
CAPRYLATE
TRADE NAME
A Phase
NIKKOL Purephos α
Star Shea Butter Refined
wt%
1.3000
6.0000
25.0000
NIKKOL GS-MHL
KF-96A-6cs
KF-96A-350cs
7.0000
2.0000
0.5000
NIKKOL Retinol H10
1.0000
NIKKOL Nikkogard 88
0.7000
B Phase
GLYCERIN
XANTHAN GUM,WATER
ARGININE
(2%aq)
HYALO-OLIGO
WATER
5.0000
10.0000
0.7000
0.1000
40.5000
C Phase
FRAGRANCE
0.2000
Lamellar liquid crystal forming agent for
low-viscosity, water-based formulations
NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC
表示名称
ヘキシルデシルリン酸セチル
INCI
Arginine Hexyldecyl Phosphate
CHINA INCI
None
Liquid Crystal
Specific Features of NIKKOL
PUREPHOS LC
Lamellar liquid crystals are formed simply by
dispersing a small amount in water.
It has high moisturising ability due to the
lamellar liquid crystal structure.
Suitable for water-rich formulation, Lotion,
Essense, etc.
Can also be used as an emulsifier.
Lamella liquid crystalline
ability of PUREPHOS LC
Dispersion phase
PUREPHOS LC + water
Can forms lamellar liquid
crystals within a wide range of
temperature and concentration.
Purephos LC
Lamella liquid crystalline
ability in water phase
‘Maltese cross’ texture indicating the existence of lamellar liquid crystals at both concentrations
of 1% and 3%
NIKKOL PUREPHOSLC
1 % aq. solution
NIKKOL PUREPHOSLC
3 % aq. solution
20 µm
20 µm
Lamellar liquid crystals are formed simply by dispersing a
small amount in water.
Moisturizing Effect of NIKKOL
PUREPHOS LC
Moisturizing effect of NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC (n=10)
Safety Information of
NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC
Human patch test
Sensitization test
Safety product
Negative
(20 volunteers, 24h
closed, 10% aq.）
(62 volunteers, RIPT
method, 10% aq.)
Instructions for Use of
NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC
Dissolve NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC in the aqueous phase.
Do not need to use the neutralizer
a usage amount of 0.5 - 5.0 wt% is recommended.
Avoid excessive addition of electrolytes as it will
affect emulsification.
To increase or to stabilize the viscosity, use a fatty
alcohol or aqueous polymer solution, etc.
NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC
Spot Oil Gel
Ingredients
wt%
PUREPHOS LC
1.00
Glycerin
6.30
Water
2.70
Oil
preservative
Total
To 100
q.s.
100.00
少量の界面活性剤で様々な油剤を多量に
含んだゲル製剤を調製できます
Fin.
Thank you for your kind attention.