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Sounds Of Gujarat Navaratri, the most important festival in Gujarat, is best known for its typical dances –Dandiya and Garba Raas. The entire state moves to the rhythm of these dances that last for nine nights or Navaratri. Shashi Sahai takes us on a discovery of Gujarat during its most festive moments, to show also its cultural and architectural heritage that has a unique mix of Hindu, Islamic and Jain art and also the influence that Father of modern India, Mahatma Gandhi, continues to have over this state where he was born and spent his formative years. Navaratri People labour for months to design, stitch, assemble or buy the best get-ups for Navaratri. This is the period when the women of Gujarat shop for entire wardrobes of chaniya-cholis, the most popular dress during Navaratri. For once, even the men preen themselves pretty much as a peacock, from their colorful turbans to embroidered shoes, embroidered jackets called kediyas and jhabba kurtas. The entire atmosphere is one of revelry and celebrations for the nine nights leading up to the eve of Dusserra, the day when Goddess Durga is said to have defeated the demon, Mahishasura, and Lord Rama defeated and killed demon king Ravana who had kidnapped his wife, Sita. The dances are usually centred around mandvi, a structure erected for the purpose, which is illuminated by traditional lamps or diyas placed in niches. The most popular dance during the festival is the Garba for women and Garbi for men, performed in a circle with the dancers clapping hands, snapping fingers or striking small sticks to the tal or beat. Sarkhej Roza mosque The architectural diversity of Gujarat is reflected in the whole state. The recorded history of Gujarat begins with the Maryan dynasty in the 3rd century. The most important period in the history of temple architecture in Gujarat was the reign of the Solanki rulers in the 11th and 12th centuries. Soon afterwards, the state fell to the invading Islamic armies and led to the formation of the Gujarat Sultanate, which developed an important provincial style of architecture blending Hindu and Islamic design elements. Majestic and serene, Sarkhej Roza is a mosque, tomb and royal complex dedicated to the memory of Shaikh Ahmed, the spiritual advisor of the sultan Ahmed Shah. The Roza was a retreat for successive rulers, each one adding a garden or pavilion. Modhera Sun temple One of the finest example of Hindu architecture in Gujarat is the Sun Temple at Modhera. Built in the 11th century, the temple has a huge tank in front that has groups of shrines along its steps. The temple has a 52 columned portico with intricate carvings including depictions of scenes from the epics. The sanctum was designed to allow the sunlight to illuminate the main statue, no longer in the temple. Land of Mahatma Gandhi A tour of Gujarat offers an insight into the life and philosophy of the Mahatma. In 1917, Gandhi established the Satyagraha Ashram along the Sabarmati River in Ahmedabad. He chose a barren location so that he could experiment with farming, livestock and other ideas. It was from this ashram that Gandhi began his non cooperation movement and evolved from Mohandas to the Mahatma. The Shaking Minarets The Shaking Minarets or Jhulti Minar of Siddi Bashir mosque in Ahmadabad have been built by a slave of the Sultan Siddi Bashir in 1461. In fact, there was no specific reason to build the minarets to shake, but people say that it was built so in order to avoid damages during earthquakes. Each minaret is three storied tall with delicately carved stone balconies around each storey. These minarets are about 21.34 meters high. If either of the minarets is shaken the other too vibrates after a few seconds. What causes this vibration is still a mystery 42 India & You November-December 2008 India & You November-December 2008 43 Ahmedabad Ahmedabad became the capital of Gujarat in 1414, replacing Patan. The rich mercantile class has played an important role in the prosperity of the city. In the markets, one can find womenfolk work on embroidery made in villages by Gujarati nomads or tribals. The best 44 India & You November-December 2008 known of Gujarat’s handicrafts are those related to its rich and colorful textiles. One of Ahmedabad’s greatest contributions from the Sultanate period is its outstanding architecture, which is also the testament to the Muslim – Jain – Hindu synthesis of that time. Siddi Sayid Mosque: This mosque was the last significant monument of the sultanate period. The delicate ‘tree of life’ motif (pix on top) has become the distinguish symbol of Ahmedabad. India & You November-December 2008 45 Champaner Figuring on the UNESCO’s World Heritage list, Champaner is one Gujarat’s most remarkable archaeological zones with Hindu temples and stepwells. There is also a mosque within the fortified city -- Shahr Ki Masjid. It is an imposing structure on a hig plinth, with a central dome, two minarets 30 meters in height, 172 pillars, seven mehrabs, and carved entrance gates with fine stone jalis. Largely rural, Champaner possess a rich nature and wildlife as well as hills spiritual retreat 46 India & You November-December 2008 India & You November-December 2008 47