PARA-USA EXPERT 14.45 Review,Para-USA 1911

Ruger American Rimfire® Wood
Stock (8329) 22LR Review
Like some, I have several .22 LR lever, bolt, pump, and semiautomatic rifles in the collection. With few exceptions, the
furniture on these rifles is polymer. While polymer furniture
has good qualities, one of those qualities is not “warmth” or
“character”. There is nothing like a well-cared for wood
stock; the smell and feel of even a poor wood stock example is
better than the cold, soulless, feel of polymer – regardless
of how much you dress it up with patterns and colors.
When my mind was echoing to the body the need for a good boltaction rifle in the “double-deuce” caliber, the search was on
for a good rifle-for-the-money. There was one caveat, however.
I did not need more magazines of vryi9ng types to fit varying
rifles. I wanted a rifle that would use a magazine that was
usable in other rifles. With that said, nearly all rifle
manufacturers have proprietary magazines for their rifles and
which are specific to those rifles. There is only one
manufacturer, as far as I am aware of, that incorporates a
magazine into the design of a rifle that can also be used in
other rifles – Sturm Ruger and Company, Inc. Specifically, the
rimfire line of rifles by Ruger. The problem would not be in
finding a bolt-action rifle in the “double-deuce” caliber, but
in finding a bolt-action rifle with wood furniture. Ruger saw
me coming.
With the Ruger M77 line now down to a single .22 LR product,
and that product sporting polymer furniture, the Ruger
American was the only option left to me. But, was it a good
option? Would I have to force myself to go to a European
manufacturer to get a quality “double-deuce” rifle like CZ USA
or Anschultz? I would rather buy American whenever possible,
of course, but sometimes that option is not available to us.
Luckily, and with Ruger, the option of buying a quality rifle
with wood furniture is entirely possible.
Enter the Ruger American Rimfire® Wood Stock (8329) 22LR.
THE BASICS:
THE LOCK:
Ruger Marksman Adjustable™
Trigger
The Ruger American Rimfire® Wood Stock (8329) 22LR comes with
the Ruger Marksman Adjustable™ trigger, which offers a crisp
release with a user adjustable pull weight that is between 3
and 5 pounds. With an adjustable trigger in mind, please
consider that to adjust the trigger pull weight, the barrel
and receiver assembly must be removed from the stock. The
receiver is held to the bedding with mounting screws that are
tightened to 35-foot pounds of torque in increments.
Personally, I would accept a somewhat heavy trigger rather
than possibly affecting accuracy by removing the receiver just
to do a DYI trigger adjustment. The trigger pull weight on my
Ruger American Rimfire is 3.5 pounds new and it will smooth
out with use. I see no virtue in pulling the action for an
ounce or two of pull. But, if you are serious about getting
the lightest trigger possible, I highly recommend that a
qualified gun smith do the work.
Standard 10-Round Ruger
Magazine (15 and 25-round
magazines can also be used)
Just forward of the trigger guard is an easy-to-use 10/22®style extended magazine release that provides smooth, no-fuss
removal of magazines – flush-mounted or otherwise.
One key feature that drew me to the Ruger American Rimfire
(8329) 22LR is the detachable, flush-mounted 10/22® BX-1 10round rotary magazine. The Ruger American Rimfire (8329) 22LR
also accept alls 10/22® magazines, including the BX-25®,
BX-25®x2 and BX-15®. This means that I can use the same
magazines in my 10/22 carbine and the Ruger “Charger” pistol.
Another feature of the action that is nice to have in a
rimfire rifle is that the Ruger American Rimfire 22LR can be
dry-fired safely and without damaging the firing pin or the
breach-face.
THE STOCK:
The
Ruger
American
Rimfire
(8329) 22LR features a singlepiece wood stock with laseretched “feathering” incorporated
on the grip and forend. I say
“featherings”
because
the
pattern reminds me of a windswept prairie fire or the feathers
of an Indian war bonnet.
The 13.75-inch LOP is nearly perfect for me with my long
reach. A rubber butt-pad makes for a comfortable length of
pull and for soaking up the horrendous recoil of the .22 longrifle cartridge.
The hand nestles into the almost pistol-like grip curve. The
trigger, bolt, and tang-mounted safety are all within reach of
the shooting hand.
Within the belly of the stock is a patent-pending Power
Bedding® integral bedding block system that positively locates
the receiver and free-floats the barrel.
A slight rise to the comb of the stock that is formed level to
the heel of the stock. There is something that calms the
nerves when the cheek contacts wood.
THE BARREL:
The 22-inch cold, satin-blued hammer-forged barrel results in
ultra-precise rifling that provides exceptional accuracy,
longevity and easy cleaning. A target-crown prevents damage to
the all-important muzzle end of the barrel.
As was mentioned previously, the barrel is bedded and is freefloating.
At the front of the barrel sits a
Williams™ fiber optic front sight
that overseas the target-crown
muzzle of the barrel. What is
interesting to note is that the
front sight appears to be the same
front sight as used on select
Ruger pistols – like the new Ruger
MKIV “Hunter” pistol. So far, this
type of sight has been the best
for me to actually see in the poor
lighting of the indoor range that I frequent.
At mid-barrel we find the adjustable, “V” slot, folding-leaf
rear sight. The folding leaf rear sight is adjustable for
elevation. The slide must be moved one graduation to change
the point of impact by approximately one inch at 25yards. Use
a small screwdriver with a blade tip that exactly fits the
screw-head. Loosen the screws only slightly so the slide
doesn’t move too freely. Move the slide in the direction you
want the point of impact of the bullet to move. When the slide
is positioned at the desired height, carefully tighten both
screws. Lateral (windage) adjustment is made by ‘drifting’ the
sight base in its slot. Place a short brass rod against the
sight base (and only the base) and tap the sight in the
direction you wish to move the point of bullet impact. Before
moving the sight, pencil mark an index line on the sight base
and rib so that sight movement can be detected. Note that the
rear sight blade can be reversed to give a square notch rear
sight picture.
The receiver is drilled and tapped for Weaver #12 bases, but a
3/8″ rimfire scope base is machined into the receiver.
60° bolt provides ample scope clearance and an easy-to-use,
receiver-mounted bolt release allows the bolt to be readily
removed without requiring a pull of the trigger, a unique
safety feature among rimfire, bolt-action rifles.
Moving on, I did find some roughness within bolt housing
itself. There are circular machining marks where, I felt,
should be smooth. This is a CNC process and I expect better
work than this, Ruger.
Also, the cuts in the bolt housing for the bolt handle where
the bolt slides into the bolt housing are not smoothly
finished; I can definitely see the wearing of the finish at
these edges. The edges are sharply defined where a rounding of
these edges would be better.
I realize that the Ruger American Rimfire is not an Anschultz,
or even a CZ, but c’mon Ruger – you could have done better!
Moving rearward is the visible,
accessible and easy-to-actuate
tang safety. The tang safety is
integral to the pistol grip of
the stock. The safety is a twoposition tang safety. The safety
selector is located behind the rear bolt sleeve. The safety
selector can be moved from the “Fire” position to the “Safe”
position only when the firing pin is cocked. Fully raising the
bolt handle cocks the firing pin.
I
have to mention the bolt “angleof-the-dangle” and how far the
bolt handle extends from the
stock. Some say that the handle
extends to far from the stock
and could be accidentally bumped with the shooting hand. Being
accidentally bumped and disengaging the bolt is two different
things. Let’s just say that disengaging the bolt takes some
effort and any bolt, unless the safety locks the bolt, can be
disengaged with a little effort. For me, the bolt distance
from the stock allows me to slide the hand under the bolt
handle just like I do with larger caliber bolt-guns – with the
web of the hand, or the palm of the hand, and which is my
right hand regardless of whether I am shooting left or right
hand. Since I am a right-handed left-hand shooter of long
guns, my right (strong) hand does all the manual labor when it
comes to working the bolt or changing out a magazine. When I
transport a bolt gun, the bolt is removed from the firearm and
I don’t concern myself about if the rifle will fit in the darn
carrying case. Some people just need something to whine about
while they are eating their jeeze.
The bolt is easily removed from the action with the push of a
simple Bolt Release Button that is located on the left side of
the receiver.
OVERALL VISUAL APPEAL:
Ruger American Rimfire® Wood Stock (8329) 22LR has the classic
lines of a wood-furniture rifle – an America-made woodfurniture rifle to be exact. The polymer versions of this
rifle lack the flow, as the clean lines of the stock are
broken with the modular stock options, in my opinion. While
the polymer-stocked version says utility, the wood version
says tradition, and to each their own says I.
Everything on the wood-stocked version of this rifle makes for
a harmonious blend of components.
The texturing of the forearm and grip lend a visual appeal to
the rifle as they are not the usual checkering.
Overall, I find the Ruger American Rimfire 22LR with wood
stock visually appealing.
OVERALL RANGE APPEAL:
Since the Federal Target Grade Performance ammunition (40grain LRN @ 1200 fps) had performed so well in the Ruger MKIV
target pistol, I decided to give it a run in the Ruger
American Rimfire 22LR to establish zero. Then, I could play
with some other selected ammunition.
I would be shooting at a NRA Official 50 ft. Slow Fire Pistol
target at 25-yards distance while bench resting the rifle and
using the open sights that came with the rifle. I really
wanted some good performance out of the rifle, as I was not
enthused about topping the rifle off with a magnified optic,
although I knew that it was probably inevitable. Marksmanship
first – always; “scope-doping” could come later.
The bolt operates smoothly, but with a slight hint of drag,
and it is not going to be the quietest bolt to operate in the
forest; in fact, it is quite noisy. The bolt sounds somewhat
like a plastic zipper as it is moved throughout its range of
motion. The noise seems to be caused by machining marks within
the bolt housing itself.
The two-stage trigger is excellent for the intent of the rifle
– hunting, plinking, target shooting, but lacks the
preciseness of a good competition trigger. For the first
stage, press the Trigger Release until you feel a “wall” and
then press about 3.5 pounds more for the second stage of the
trigger to send the bullet downrange. The break is as crisp as
any 1911 trigger and no over-travel was detected.
It should be noted that the only purpose for the trigger is to
release the firing pin. The sear is pulled away from the sear
contact point with the firing pin, which allows the firing pin
to move forward under extreme spring tension and strike the
primer (rim) of the cartridge to be fired. In many ways, the
operation is the same as striker-fired firearms, as there is
no “hammer” per se.
Raising the bolt handle cocks the rifle. For this reason,
Ruger recommends that the safety be placed in the “Safe”
position before chambering a cartridge, or after chambering a
cartridge, that will not be immediately fired.
Also, take heed of the following warning, provided by Ruger,
with regard to ammunition.
And, no, Ruger magazines for the .22 magnum cartridge cannot
be used in this rifle; they just will not fit regardless of
any attempt to do so on your part.
I sent ten rounds of the Target Grade Performance ammunition
(40-grain LRN @ 1200 fps) to the NRA Official 50 ft. Slow Fire
Pistol target at 25-yards distance. Trying to see the font
sight was a challenge enough let alone properly align it with
the diamond of the rear sight. Nonetheless, I did manage too
put all ten rounds on paper – just not where I wanted. The
impact pattern was good in a vertical line, except that the
line was not centered on the center of the target, it was to
the right – by a large distance. There was some work to be
done here. My Son-In-law shot the rifle and it was evident to
both of us that the point of impact was high and right,
although his right was more to center than mine.
Surprisingly, the CCI Blazer that performed poorly in the
Ruger MKIV target pistol performed admirably in the Ruger
American Rimfire 22LR. All in all, the different brands and
weights of bullets fired performed about the same, as there
was no distinct winner.
Looking at the rear sight, it was evident that the center-line
of the adjustable elevation portion of the sight was about two
lines high of the reference center-line. A quick adjustment of
the rear sight (a Jeweler’s screwdriver is required) to bring
the two center-line together brought the impact down to a
reasonable enough impact point for me. Adjusting for windage;
however, is another matter entirely. Unfortunately, I did not
bring tools to drift the rear sight to the left and that had
to wait until I returned home; the rear sight was definitely
right-of-center (by measurement) and was quickly centered
using the proper tools. Further sighting-in, and possible
adjustment, would have to wait until the next range session.
I could not ask for a better trigger, with the exception of a
gritty Trigger Release. I vowed to take care of that when I
returned home, and a very light application of Ballistol on
the Trigger Release mechanism took care of the issue.
Eventually, a scope will be mounted and I am sure that Ruger
anticipates that most people will do just that. However, I
feel it just as anticipatory that a user will actually use the
open sights at some time or another, as I would if I had to
remove the scope for some reason or if I actually liked the
sights enough to use them, which I do when outdoors and in
good light where I can actually see them. (Actually, I wanted
to see how many times I could get away using the word
“actually” – and it is actually several times.)
Although I wasn’t impressed by my performance, the Ruger
American Rimfire 22LR is quite capable of giving the operator
good accuracy with open sights and even better accuracy with
magnified optics.
With a 13.75-inch LOP, some may find the stock too long for
their liking and this rifle may fail in that category for a
youth or person with short arms. I did feel that the comb of
the rifle was slightly high, but with a scope mounted, it
would be an advantage. The Ruger 10/22 might be to liking of
some rather than the long stock of the Ruger American Rimfire.
Or, rather than the wood stock Ruger American Rimfire option,
you might consider the polymer stock options; the polymer
stock option includes two interchangeable standard lengths of
pull stock modules that provide comb height options for scope
or iron sight use. By simply removing the rear sling swivel
stud, stock modules can be changed in seconds.
I think that you would like the Ruger American Rimfire in 22LR
or 22WMR once the rifle is dialed-in, with open-sights or with
a mounted scope.
UPDATE 11/13/2016 – SCOPE DOPING:
Sometimes I can be a dope. In this case, I am a scope dope.
I had purchased a Bushnell rimfire scope at my local Wal-Mart
to try on the Ruger American Rimfire. That was a bad decision
on my part, but I was able to salvage some good out of the bad
– maybe.
Range day did not go well! The cheap scope that I had bought
for the Ruger American just did not cut it. The target,
regardless of the distance, was blurrier than the reticle. I
decided that I had to replace the scope with a better one; a
Nikon or Simmons, maybe.
Well, I got back home and dismounted the Bushnell scope that
was on the rifle, and then realized that I had another scope
around here that I wasn’t using, and that I had purchased for
something else, which didn’t work out.
Rings were exchanged, placed on the “new” scope, and now sits
a Bushnell Banner 3-9×40 illuminated reticle scope on top of
the American Rimfire. Granted that it is a little bit heavier
than the Bushnell 22, and obviously larger – some may say too
large.
There is plenty of space between the bolt handle and the rear
lens housing and the center of the reticle can be illuminated
red or green. There is also plenty of space between the exit
lens housing and the barrel of the rifle. And, boy the target
is as clear as anything – unlike the other scope. The eye
relief is about 4-inches.
This scope is actually for larger calibers; .30-30 Winchester
or .308; recoil should not be an issue the .22 LR. It has 60
MOA of total elevation and windage adjustment (finger adjusted
after the caps are removed) w/ 1 click = 1/4 MOA at 100 yards.
It does have BDC, but I never use it with my relatively shortrange shooting anyway.
Do you think that I over-scoped for a .22 LR rifle? See
accompanying images.
Bushnell Banner 3-9×40 Scope – Can You Say, “Over-scoped?”
Plenty of Clearance for the Cocking Handle
OVERALL IMPRESSION:
It should be noted
Rimfire 22LR is the
is also a “compact”
there is also the
adjustments for LOP
that this version of the Ruger American
“long” version with its 20” barrel. There
version. Also, if you are not into wood,
polymer-stocked version that provides
and stock height.
Ninety-nine point nine percent of the time, the firearms that
I review are my personal firearms and I owe no company
allegiance when reviewing their products. I invest time and
good money and what I get for my money I report so that other
fine people, like those reading this review, can decide if the
product is worth their money.
The Ruger American Rimfire 22LR is considered, by some, as an
entry-level rifle. The term “entry level” I am going to
address in a separate article. As it is, the Ruger American
Rimfire 22LR is an excellent general purpose bolt-action
plinker, informal target shooter, or a bring-home-small-game
rifle.
One advantage of a bolt-gun over a semi-automatic is that the
bolt-gun tends to run cleaner. In a semi-automatic firearm,
burnt powder and debris will naturally be forced into the
chambering area due to the blow-back operation. With a boltoperated firearm, burnt powder and debris is forced forward
into the barrel and only a small residue of burnt powder and
debris may be found in the chambering area due to operating
the bolt.
While I did consider the CZ USA 452 Ultra Lux, I also had to
consider cost of ownership and what I was intending to do with
the rifle, and the Ruger American Rimfire 22LR won out.
Are there some issues with the Ruger American Rimfire 22LR?
Yes they are and I would like to see Ruger pay more attention
to their quality for those of us who really like Ruger
products or for those who would really like to enjoy Ruger
firearms. Sometimes, it is the little finishing touches that
can make a difference to a consumer.
My final impression of the Ruger American Rimfire 22LR rifle
with wood stock is of a utility rifle with traditional styling
and furniture. I like the looks of the rifle, I like the feel
of the rifle, and I like the way the rifle shoots – once it is
properly sighted-in.
DON’ JUS’ TAKE MY WORD FOR IT:
Regardless if you are interested in the wood-stocked or a
polymer-stocked version, you are primarily going to be
interested in how the Ruger American Rimfire performs. In
addition to my own findings, I have provided some links to
others who can take you down that road.
Ruger
American
Rimfire
Bolt-Action
22
LR
Rifle:
http://www.gunblast.com/Ruger-American22.htm
If anybody knows “double-deuce” rifles, it is 22plinkster:
RUGER
AMERICAN
RIMFIRE
REVIEW:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDuQewgO26E#t=26
And, here are some other reviews:
Ruger
10/22
vs
American
Rimfire
review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlOuFNWTfL8
Ruger American Rimfire .22lr – First Impression:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1stXjxONB0
Ruger
American
Rimfire
Review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXLAXrm89G8
RESOURCES:
Ruger
American
Rimfire:
http://ruger.com/products/americanRimfire/overview.html
Stock Exchange
If you have had a chance to read my review of the Mossberg 20gauge Tactical shotgun Mossberg 500 20-Gauge Tactical Shotgun
(54300), one of my peeves with shotgun was the stock that was
provided with the shotgun.
Standard Stock (Left) and
Replacement Stock (Right)
The LOP with the stock that came with the shotgun was 11inches without the butt pad. Adding a one-inch spacer took the
LOP out to twelve-inches. Mounting the butt pad extended the
LOP to 12.75-inches, which was still too short for my comfort.
A LimbSaver slip-on recoil pad was added to provide 3.75-inch
of LOP. This was more like it, but still shorter than my
desired 14.25-inch to 14.75-inch LOP. Why Mossberg decided to
place a “youth” stock on a “tactical” shotgun with a 20-inch
barrel is beyond me, but they did. I do admit to having a long
reach and, with a total six-foot wingspan, most stocks feel
too short.
Standard Stock (Bottom) and
Replacement Stock (Top)
I ordered a “normal” stock from Mossberg, a black polymer
unit, to replace the erector set that Mossberg called a stock.
With the new stock, according to Mossberg, I could expect a
LOP of 13.75-inches. That was more to my liking.
The grip pattern of the new stock was not as textured as the
original stock. The new stock did; however, provide a better
match with subtle pattern of the forearm.
Changing out a Mossberg 500 stock is a pretty simple affair
and is well worth the 10 minutes or so out of my life. A
standard Phillips screwdriver tip provides for the removal of
the butt-pad and spacer screws, and a long-shank, large, flattipped screwdriver (or a 3/8” socket) makes removal of the
stock mounting bolt a quick effort.
New Stock with 13.75-inch
LOP. The LimbSaver SlipOn Recoil Pad Extends the
LOP to 15″
Place the new stock in place and tighten the mounting bolt,
but do not over-tighten. The receiver of the Mossberg shotgun
is aluminum and so are the stock mounting threads. Snug is all
that is needed. Attach the butt-pad (with the provided screws)
with a Phillips screwdriver and, once again, I had an
operational shotgun. Not only did I have an operational
shotgun, but an operational shotgun with a LOP within my
operational range. The new stock (with butt pad) gave me a
13.75-inch LOP. Add the LimbSaver clip-on recoil pad and the
LOP moves out to an uncompressed 15-inches. For me, a 15-inch
LOP is perfect when I am just wearing a shirt or light vest.
With a medium to heavy coat, I simply pull off the LimbSaver
and operate with the 13.75” LOP. The LOP does not matter if I
am wearing, or not wearing, trousers.
Mossberg supplied a short stock with the long-barreled 20gauge Tactical shotgun, yet they offer a standard stock with
the shorter barreled shotguns like the 500 Tactical 6-shot.
However, and in Mossberg’s defense, an adjustable stock
version is available for the same shotgun that I have (500
Tactical
–
Adjustable
Stock
(#54301):
http://www.mossberg.com/product/500-tactical-adjustable-stock54301/) and that provides a 10.75″ – 14.25″ LOP. While it is
an adequate LOP range for most folks, I prefer full-size
stocks with a fixed LOP. Besides, a hollow full-size stock
allows me to stock the stock with survival supplies (fire
making materials, spare flashlight batteries, and long Slim
Jims) – just in case.
As with any firearm, you must make the firearm fits your
requirements. Exchanging stocks on the Mossberg 500 8-shot
Tactical 20-gauge was my way of making the shotgun fit me and
my needs, and I don’t think that I need to go farther than
that.
And in closing, if you need a short Mossberg 20-gauge stock
with limited adjustment capabilities (11-inches to 12.75inches), I just happen to have one.
IWB Hybrid Holster Care
The advent of IWB hybrid
holsters brought a new, and now,
very popular means of concealed
carry. Not only have hybrid
holster taken concealed carry by
storm, OWB hybrid holster are
also becoming popular. This
article; however, focuses in on
the IWB hybrid holster. Specifically, not about what the IWB
holster does for us, but what we need to do for the IWB Hybrid
holster.
IWB hybrid holsters are probably the easiest holster to slap
into place and begin to use on a daily basis over many other
holster types and materials. But, the IWB hybrid holster is
not without its considerations. We hope to address those
considerations in this brief article.
Not being an expert on hybrid holsters by any means,
especially in the leather care department, I enlisted the help
of my good friend, Steve, who is a retired leather smith and
knows his way around things leather. Steve is also known by
his Gun Toters forum name of M1911A1. Steve’s contribution can
be read at LEATHER BACKING CARE.
Let’s start this out with a few precautions regarding IWB
hybrid holsters.
PRECAUTIONS:
When you first receive your Kydex gear it is advised to test
fit it with an unloaded and safe weapon to make sure there is
no contact with your trigger. If you believe there is contact
between the trigger and Kydex, do not use the item and contact
the manufacturer.
Kydex:
KYDEX® plastic combines the beneficial characteristics of
acrylic and PVC. It has superior rigidity and formability but
is also tough, chemical resistant, and resilient.
Of the few precautions associated with an IWB hybrid holster,
the primary precaution could be summed up in one word – heat;
more specifically, excessive heat. Kydex, the outer shell of
the IWB hybrid holster, is a thermoformed plastic. If
subjected to high heat, it can lose shape. It is advised not
to leave your Kydex gear in a hot car on a summer day or
anywhere that is subject to extreme and/or direct heat.
Leather Backing:
The backing material may be made of cowhide (10-12 ounce) or
horsehide (7-9 ounce) or even of a synthetic material. The
backing may be single layer or double layer. The backing may
also consist of two different materials; one for the backer
and one for a liner. Layers are usually glued, stitched,
and/or heat bonded. Cowhide wears extremely well and horsehide
is poplar for its water/sweat resistant properties, although
“pressed” cowhide is becoming popular as a substitute for
horsehide. Backing colors may range from natural to heavilydyed and most are sealed and buffed in the high-wear areas.
Tan me hide when I’m dead, Fred
Tan me hide when I’m dead
So we tanned his hide when he died, Clyde
And that’s it hangin’ on the shed!!
Altogether now!
– Lyrics from: Tie Me Kangaroo Down Sport,Rolf Harris
Tanning hide into leather involves a process which permanently
alters the protein structure of skin. Tanning can be performed
with either vegetable or mineral methods. Vegetable-tanned
hide is not very flexible and is used for luggage, furniture,
footwear, belts, and other clothing accessories. Many gun
belts and holsters have been “vegetable” tanned. Chrome
tanning is faster than vegetable tanning (less than a day for
this part of the process) and produces a stretchable leather
which is excellent for use in handbags and garments. Chances
are that a “Chrome” tanning process is used for most IWB
hybrid holster products. For more information about leather
tanning, see Tanning: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanning.
For care considerations for the leather backing, see LEATHER
BACKING CARE (see how well that lead-in worked out!).
BREAK-IN:
Break-in of the holster will take place over a period of time
depending on a few variables. Like any great baseball glove,
it will get better with time. The leather will form to your
exact torso contours.
Examples of Alien Gear IWB
Hybrid Holsters
Some IWB Hybrid holsters are better at forming to your body
than others. Some manufacturers simply attach a backing to a
shell (or vice-versa) and call it a day without regarding how
the bending of backing material and the interaction with the
Kydex shell takes place. There are some manufactures that,
during manufacturing, provide a “give” area that allows the
backing to form to the body without placing stress on the
Kydex shell mounts. In other words, I would give “Bob’s
Bargain Basement and Hybrid Holsters” a pass on without
looking, thank you.
Give the IWB Hybrid holster some time to settle into your body
before making adjustments for cant, height, and tension.
CANT ADJUSTMENT:
Thanks to Alien Gear Holsters for this excellent
“Cant” Example
I once wrote an article on cant (Holster Cant – What You Can
and
Can’t
Do
About
It:
http://guntoters.com/blog/2015/06/26/holster-cant-what-you-can
-and-cant-do-about-it/) and I hope that you take the time to
read it at a later time.
Fortunately, there are many IWB Hybrid holsters that provide a
number of ways to adjust an IWN Hybrid holster for cant. A
cant adjustment range of 0-degrees to 35-degrees is not
uncommon and holsters are usually shipped with a built-in 15degree (FBI) positive cant.
The beauty of having these cant adjustments to you is that you
can experiment with cant angles until you find the one that
benefits you best – and you should be experimenting. You just
may find that the cant that you have lived with for so long is
not the best for you or for how you wish to carry the firearm.
A few minutes playing with cant adjustments just may turn your
IWB hybrid holster from a hip holster to an appendix holster
or even a cross-draw holster.
Anytime you remove the screws, be sure to use blue Loctite on
mounting and tension screws.
HOLSTER RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT:
The ride height of a holster can be expressed two ways; how
much of the firearm is above the waist or how much of the
firearm is below the waist. Holster ride heights are usually
expressed in terms like; high-ride, mid-ride, or low-ride.
Sometimes the holster ride height may need to be low to
prevent a short barreled firearm from being pressed outward
from the body at the butt, or because the operator has long
arms and a mid-ride or high-ride position places too much
strain on the shoulder to achieve a good draw stroke.
For me, I find that a mid-ride (with my desired cant) is
suitable for short-barreled and long-barreled firearms. Feel
free to experiment and find the best holster ride height for
you. Fortunately, IWB Hybrid holster manufacturers usually
provide adequate mounting point holes for you to experiment
with.
Anytime you remove the screws, be sure to use blue Loctite on
mounting and tensioning screws.
MOUNTING HARDWARE:
Mounting hardware consists of clips, screws, nuts, and spacers
used to secure the Kydex shell to the backing and the backing
to your belt.
It is quite common for steel clips to be used to secure the
holster assembly to the belt; however, mounting variations may
also be leather straps with snaps, polymer J-clips, P-clips,
or other means. Although each has their advantages and
disadvantage, all are subject to stress and possible failure,
which means periodic inspections to ensure that failure – is
not an option.
Mounting screws follow Murphy’s Law; whereas, if one can back
out, one will back out. The use of blue Locktite helps to
mitigate one or more from backing out. Some IWB Hybrid holster
manufactures provide a couple of extra screws with the
holster. Chances are you may never need them, but like
carrying a firearm, it is better to have it and not need it
than…
TENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
A Black Arch Holster with
Two Tension Points
Tension points on IWB Hybrid holsters are not created equal. A
manufacturer may provide four separate tension point where
others my provide two tension points, or even one tension
point depending on the holster.
Most IWB Hybrid holster tension is adjusted at the factory
using either the actual firearm for your holster, or more
likely, an exact non-firing duplicate.
If the tension needs to be adjusted you can do so by
tightening or loosening the mounting hardware. Most IWB Hybrid
holster manufacturers provide rubber spacers that are
compressed with a tension screw to add or reduce tension. In
some cases, a separate set of rubber spacers and tension
screws are provided with the holster that allows you to
customize tension points to your liking.
In most cases, it is better to wear the holster with the
firearm for a few days to let things conform to each other
before making tension adjustments. It should become common
practice to check the tension of the holster to your firearm
on a regular basis.
Anytime you remove the screws, be sure to use blue Loctite on
mounting and tension screws.
KYDEX CARE:
As for the Kydex holster shell, and once removed from the
leather backer, you can clean with dish soap and warm water.
Dry with a hand towel, and then reassemble.
If the retention needs to be adjusted you can do so by
tightening or loosening the mounting hardware. Anytime you
remove the screws, be sure to use blue Loctite on mounting and
tension screws.
When you first receive your Kydex gear it is advised to test
fit it with a unloaded and safe weapon to make sure there is
no contact with your trigger. If you believe there is contact
between the trigger and Kydex, do not use the item and please
contact the manufacturer.
In some cases, the Kydex shell and the backing cannot e
separated due to stitching and or riveting of the shell to the
backing. In this case, a simple wipe down with a damp rag will
suffice. Prior to purchasing an IWB Hybrid holster that
incorporates stitching in its design, I would highly recommend
that you inquire about the material used for the stitching.
For example, the Kydex shells on all Black Arch IWB Hybrid
holsters are both stitched and riveted. Kevlar stitching is
used and moisture is not going to affect its strength
characteristics. Other manufacturers may use different
stitching materials (for example; reinforced, treated nylon)
and most are receptive to inquiries.
Kydex is extremely easy to care for and maintain. If your
Kydex gear gets dirty, dusty, or debris in it all you have to
do is wash it out with warm soapy water and let it air dry.
After it is dry it is advisable to wipe the inside down with
gun cleaning oil.
On gear that has user adjustable belt loops/clips, after you
adjust the ride height, use blue thread locker to secure the
screws.
You should check the hardware at least once a week to make
sure the screws are not loose.
KYDEX (RE)FORMING:
There are times when the Kydex shell may need to be re-formed.
I had one case with a Kydex shell where the impression for
inside of a trigger guard was a bit too much and affected how
smoothly the firearm could be inserted and removed from the
holster. I felt that the holster needed a little less tension
at the trigger guard. Reforming the Kydex meant the
application of heat while applying a tool at the desired area
to raise the center portion of the trigger guard area of the
holster.
Although Kydex is forgiving, it can also be not so forgiving
when re-forming the Kydex goes completely wrong; you can end
up with a useless Kydex shell unless you plan out what you are
intending to do, where you are intending to do it, and how you
are intending to do it. Once heated to malleable temperature,
things need to happen very quickly and the heat needs to be
removed just as quickly.
Just for your edification, here are some things to know about
Kydex:
When forming KYDEX sheet, it is better to rely on the sheet
appearance during heating than on fixed cycle times.
Forming temperatures – Guidelines – The Kydex should not
exceed:
204°C (400°F).
165 – 177°C (330 – 350°F) for < 1.50mm (0.060”).
182 – 196°C (360 – 385°F) for 1.50mm to 3.20mm (0.060”
to 0.125”).
196 – 204°C (385 – 400°F) for > 3.20mm (0.125”)
Ideally the core sheet temperature should be within 10°F of
the surface temperature.
As KYDEX sheet is heated, the inherent stresses in the sheet
will relax. The following is observed in the Kydex forming
process:
Stage I: The heating is marked by wide undulations and
softening.
Stage II: The material will start to form small ripples
(known as oil canning).
Stage III: The material will start to smooth out and sag
(KYDEX sheet will generally sag less than other
thermoplastics due to its high melt strength).
Stage IV: The ripples will have smoothed out indicating
that most stresses have been removed. 10 to 30 seconds
afterwards the sheet is ready to form.
Heat Gun:
Don’t be tempted to borrow the wife’s blow dryer in place of a
heat gun. Blow dryers don’t get hot enough, or move enough air
to really do a good job with Kydex. Find a local Harbor
Freight store and grab a cheap heat gun, or order one on
Amazon. Obviously an 1100* heat gun is a lot hotter than a
hair dryer, so exercise some caution when using it, and
always, always, keep it moving. If you leave it in one spot
too long, it will scorch the plastic. If you get a dual mode
heat gun, the lower setting will be a lot more forgiving.
Of course, you can always contact the holster manufacturer and
ask for an adjustment of the Kydex. Most hybrid manufacturers
don’t mind making their product right for you (there are
exceptions of course). However, no manufacturer will
appreciate receiving a holster back for adjustment with a hole
burned through the Kydex shell due to your screw-up. Plain and
simple, if you don’t feel comfortable enough to perform the
Kydex re-form, don’t do it even though you may have the
competence and tools to do so.
LEATHER BACKING CARE:
Many thanks to M1911A1 for providing the information that
follows:
Steve’s Note!
This leather-holster-care segment of the article will be
useful to all users of all leather holsters, not only to those
using the hybrid form.
First, are you sure that it’s leather? Some hybrid-holster
makers use synthetics that look and feel a lot like leather
for their holster-backing pieces. Pseudo-leather requires care
that is very different from that demanded by real leather, and
it’s easier too. But other than to say that Lexol works well,
we won’t discuss artificial leather here.
If it is real leather, next we must look at the holster
maker’s intentions, and also at your own needs. Is the leather
soft? Flexible? Thick? Stiff? What purpose does the leather
serve, and how well does its present condition suit that
purpose, and suit you?
Holster Care Kit from White
Hat Leathers
If it’s soft and flexible, you can’t stiffen it. You can make
soft leather softer, and you can make flexible leather even
more flexible, and even soft. And if it’s stiff, and instead
you want it flexible or soft, you can change things. But be
aware that, once changed, there’s no going back. Also be aware
that almost all leather-cleaning and leather-preserving
products act as softeners.
The list of leather cleaners and preservers is long, and new
ones pop up now and then, so there’s no comprehensive catalog.
But new preparations are usually just slightly different from
older models, or merely a rebranding,
classifications are useful enough.
so
general
Cake-wax shoe “polish,” for instance those flat cans labelled
Kiwi, leads the pack. That’s closely followed by saddle soap,
a fairly ordinary soap that contains a large amount of
glycerin. Then there are the liquid-wax products like Lexol,
containing wax and glycerin, and in some cases a soap
solution. Finally, there are animal-fat-based oils, typified
by neatsfoot oil. In last place, least useful, come the
volatile liquids loaded with Teflon particles or Moly
(molybdenum disulfide), and even powdered graphite.
Regardless of the stuff you’re going to use, you should first
clean your leather by scrubbing it, inside and out, with a dry
toothbrush. No water. No soap. Get all of the dust, grit, and
crud off of every surface and out of every crevice. Of course,
you’ll be doing this to the Kydex parts of your hybrid rig,
too. Right? That’s because even dust will eventually destroy
leather, Kydex, and also blued steel.
“Rough Out” side is against
the body as shown in this
worn IWB Hybrid holster
example and is the most
susceptible to moisture
The only preparation among those listed that will not
materially soften leather is cake shoe wax, used just as you
would to polish your shoes. However, it only beautifies and
preserves. It doesn’t clean. If the leather you’re working on
has been wet-formed, and is now almost as stiff as wood, for
instance providing a permanent dimple to immobilize your gun’s
safety lever, use only cake wax on it. Don’t soften it, or
you’ll lose that important wet-formed dimple. Since the
leather part of a hybrid IWB holster is not out in the open,
and its beauty isn’t an important issue, you can use
colorless, “neutral” shoe wax on it. The bonus is that there
will be no color to rub off onto your clothes.
You might be tempted to use cake furniture wax, for instance
Johnson’s or Minwax, because it’s easier to apply than shoe
wax, but it probably isn’t a good idea. The volatile solvent
which makes this wax soft isn’t good for some leathers, and it
carries the soft wax deeply into stiff leather, thereby
eventually making it softer than you might want it to be.
Even a holster made of
Chipmunk hide will need care
An old cowboy proverb says that if you use saddle soap on your
leather, it’ll last for 100 years; but if you use neatsfoot
oil on it, it’ll only last for 75. There’s a lot of truth in
that. A scrub with a toothbrush and an application of
neatsfoot oil will remove a lot of surface dirt, and it
certainly will soften and preserve the leather by quickly and
deeply lubricating its interior fibers. But embedded dirt that
the oil couldn’t remove will eventually tear the leather
apart. Neatsfoot oil is probably the best, and quickest,
leather softener available, but it will stain clothing.
On the other hand, saddle soap is, first of all, soap; and
soap is better than most things at dissolving and floating out
deep-down dirt. Saddle soap leaves glycerin behind. It’s a
fiber lubricant and leather softener, but each application
doesn’t leave very much of it. It only softens leather after a
long series of applications. The short-term leather-softener
part of saddle soap is the water you use to make it into
leather-cleaning suds. If you apply saddle soap with a heavy
hand, that water will quickly remove the safety-lever dimple
that you might want to keep.
Lexol is the most-used liquid-wax preparation for cleaning,
preserving, and, yes, softening leather. Lexol leather
preserver is really good stuff, but it’s only for use on
leather that is either already soft, or that you want to make
softer. The Lexol people make a separate cleaning product, and
it, too, will soften leather as a byproduct of its use. There
are other liquid-wax preparations, some containing vegetable
waxes and some bearing more or less beeswax. Vegetable wax,
for instance carnauba, is good, but beeswax alone may end up
flaking off. The liquid which carries the wax will most likely
soften leather. That said, if the maker of your holster
specifies, or even sells, a liquid preservative, it’s probably
the right thing to use.
This Holster example can
serve in IWB or OWB roles
Teflon- or Moly-bearing liquids are not leather softeners
because the liquid part evaporates too quickly to have an
effect. These preparations slick-up the leather surface,
supposedly making break-in unnecessary and the draw-stroke
quicker. But be absolutely certain that this is what you
really need, because the stuff is very hard to remove, and at
worst it may be permanent. Instead, the best holster break-in
is a long series of repeated practice presentations. The
Teflon- or Moly-treated surface may become just a little too
slick, which will adversely affect pistol retention and safe
use.
In the old days, too-tight leather holsters could be slickedup a little by rubbing powdered graphite onto their interior
surfaces. Some people made a slurry of graphite and Vaseline,
which made application a lot easier. Graphite adds less
slickness than does Teflon or Moly, and thus might be helpful,
but it creates a permanent mess which stains guns, hands, and
clothing; and the Vaseline, if you use it, softens leather
somewhat.
Choose leather cleaners and preservatives thoughtfully,
according to the end result you’re looking for. Control their
effects with careful application, remembering that if you go
too far, you may not be able to reverse the process. And place
most of your faith in the dry toothbrush, your most potent
weapon against grime.
Other very informative articles by Steve (M1911A1) can be
found at http://guntoters.com/blog/author/m1911a1/ But, don’t
go there just yet.
MAKING THE CUT:
Cross Breed Super
Deluxe w/Combat Cut
Tuck
A sweat shield protects the firearm from body moisture. Some
manufacturers allow you to decide the “cut” of the sweat
shield, which may be a “Standard” cut or a “Combat” cut. In
cases, the “Combat” cut may be the standard, but in other
cases a “Combat” cut may cost you a little extra in cash.
Crossbreed Holsters, LLC defines a Combat Cut as such:
The Combat Cut is where we trim away some of the leather from
behind part of the grip of your pistol, leaving leather
coverage behind the trigger guard and slide. This allows a
firmer grasp on the gun during the draw stroke. This
modification will sacrifice a little bit of comfort but does
increase the draw speed. This is an extra cost option because
this cut is made to follow the contour of the individual
firearm; the look of this cut varies from one holster to
another depending on holster type, leather type, and gun
choice. Approximately 20% of our customers prefer this
option, while the others either have no preference or feel it
sacrifices too much comfort. If you are unsure, don’t order
it. We can do it later if you would like; but once it’s done,
it’s done.
As a side note, I perform surgery on any IWB Hybrid holster
that I use for the 1911-based pistol to prevent any negative
interaction between the sweat shield and the thumb safety on
the pistol.
I leave it up to the individual to decide what type of sweat
shield is good for their particular purposes.
What I would consider an
ill-designed IWB Hybrid
holster
I have also seen examples of IWB Hybrid holsters that are
simply a circular, rectangular, or wildly exaggerated cut of
leather with a Kydex shell plopped in the middle them – and
some of them are not so inexpensive. If these makers are
making things on the cheap, what can be expected of the
quality of backing and the Kydex shell that should be formed
to your particular handgun? Please look at the functionality
of the holster before purchase!
The last item on the cut list (that was a pun) that you should
get into your noggin’ is that the sweat shield will bend
outward. The sweat shield (standard, combat, or whatever) is
leather and leather is flexible; cows and horses would not
want it any other way. The sweat shield works two ways; it
protects the firearm from body moisture and it protects your
body from the firearm. The sweat shield bending outward is
normal and the firearm prevents it from bending too far. In
other words, the holster is intended to be worn with a
holstered firearm. Concern yourself only if the sweat shield
has attained such flexibility to the point that it flops over
and interferes with you holstering the firearm; that’s a sign
that you need a new holster, Binky!
REPLACEMENT PARTS:
Most IWB Hybrid holster manufacturers can provide, at a cost
or not, replacement parts for your holster to include, nuts,
screws, washers, and clips. Some holster manufacturers will
even include some screws and washers with the product and this
may also include a wrench for adjusting screws.
If you decide to forego what is offered by the manufacturer,
and instead decide to opt for hardware from your local big-box
hardware store, go for the stainless-steel hardware as it is
less susceptible to corrosion from body sweat and other
moisture.
THE BOTTOM LINE:
There are some good IWB Hybrid holsters on the market today,
and bad ones. Some may come with the Kydex shell as an
integral part of the holster or a Kydex shell that can be
changed out for another shell that fits a different pistol or
revolver as your carry needs change. This article was not
intended to say that one manufacturer’s holster is better than
another manufacturer’s holster – I leave that decision up to
you.
Of course, there are also IWB holsters that are all Kydex or
leather (sans mounting hardware), and care of Kydex and
leather found in this article apply to them as well.
Do your research, select you desired IWB hybrid holster,
adjust it to your needs, and then treat it with respect
through proper maintenance.
RESOURCES:
The
Truth
About
Kydex
Holsters:
http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2014/02/robert-farago/truth-k
ydex-holsters/
I’m Getting Weak!
I
am
right-handed, but I am left-eye dominant. Although I shoot
handguns right-handed, I shoot long guns left-handed. I figure
that being cross-eye dominate is better than being dominantly
cross-eyed.
Being a right-handed handgun shooter, the right side is also
the strongest side. Like most, I favor the strong side, but I
also realize that there may be times when I need to shoot a
handgun with the weaker hand and this usually involves
swapping the handgun from the strong hand to the weak hand. I
don’t practice this strong-side-to-weak-side exchange often
enough at home or when I ma at the range; the concentration is
primarily strong-side draw to strong-side shooting stance.
I find that we like to challenge ourselves, even with little
things, although shooting a firearm would not be considered a
little thing as it is a serious matter. My challenge to myself
was not only to better my weak-side shooting skills, but to
totally immerse myself into weak-side training. Now, weak-side
gun handling is more than simply going to the range and
shooting weak-side for each shooting session. If I carry
strong-side, which I do, I am not really committing myself to
weak-side gun handling. To be fully effective as a weak-side
handgun operator, I also needed to carry the handgun on the
weak side. Moreover, this also meant practicing the draw
stroke from the weak side, presenting the pistol, acclimating
to the grip, acclimating to the trigger, and putting rounds
downrange effectively. In short, I am trying to undue a
plethora of years practice, handling, and packing a pistol on
my strong side to become an effective weak-side gun handler.
The ultimate goal is to become as comfortable operating from
my weak side as I am operating from the strong side. Some
folks are naturally ambidextrous; I am not one of those folks.
Aside from the fact that my right side is older than my left
side, and has experienced most things from the right side, I
felt that it was time for the left side to play catch-up.
One of the first things that I had to consider for this
endeavor was what firearm to consider for this transition.
Although, the 1911-based pistol is my first love, it was
discounted. Although discounted for several reasons, the
primary reason was safety.
I would be operating the 1911 from my non-dominant side. While
I have done so, it was usually through transitioning the
firearm from one hand to the other and not carrying or
performing a draw-stroke from the left side with the weak-side
hand. Additionally, there is the locating of the 1911’s thumb
safety, which is on the left side of the pistol. While
advantageous to the right-handed shooter, its location is not
friendly to the left-handed shooter even though many lefthanded shooters do just fine with the 1911, but they operate
the pistol with their strong hand and it becomes more natural
to them. I am transitioning to the left hand (my weak hand)
and htat is not natural to me.
There is also the case of the left-side thumb safety being
located on, now what would be, the outside of the pistol. The
thumb safety of the 1911, when carried on the right side, is
somewhat protected from things. Unless the 1911 is equipped
with an ambidextrous thumb safety, the chances for the thumb
safety being knocked “off safe” is relatively low. With a
left-side thumb safety 1911 being carried on the left side;
however, that odds of the thumb safety being knocked off safe
is the same as with a 1911 that is equipped with an
ambidextrous thumb safety, which are a little higher than
normal. I like odds to be a little more in my favor when it
comes to safety, and since I am learning a new skill. I need
those odds to be way more in my favor. The 1911-based pistol
was out as my “learning” tool.
Black Arch Holsters ACE-1
GEN2 IWB Holster
What was needed was a pistol that was “lefty” friendly and
what that meant was a pistol with no left-side safety lever,
or a minimally-sized one. Lefty-friendly also meant an
ambidextrous magazine release button was in order. Luckily, I
did not have to go far to find a pistol that fit the bill – it
was sitting on my right hip nestled nicely in the Black Arch
ACE-1 GEN2 IWB holster – the Springfield XDM 4.5 that I have
been carrying for a while now. While not without an external
safety, the grip safety would provide a measure of safety
while I got the hang of things left handed. This all leads to
the fact that it is extremely difficult to draw a pistol with
the left hand from a right-handed holster; a left-handed IWB
holster would have to be ordered. Once again, Black Arch
Holsters got the call and a left-hand ACE-1 GEN2 IWB holster
for the Springfield XDM 4.5 was ordered. The holster, when
received, will receive the same “cant” treatment as my right
hand holsters. There was also another method to my madness.
Since the new holster will also work with Springfield XDM 3.8,
either the right-hand or left-hand holster could serve as a
place to house a back-up firearm; the XDM 3.8 (which can use
the magazines from the XDM 4.5) or another XDM 4.5. The mind
is always clicking.
As far as carrying spare magazines go – nothing changes. I
carry spare magazines on my right appendix position normally.
While carrying does not change, I would be handling the
magazines with my strong hand, which is much less clumsy than
my weak hand and that makes it better for me. Also, consider
that I operate a long gun left-handed and that means that most
operations are done with my strong hand; magazine reloads,
pump operation, bolt-operation, magazine release and install,
etc. In my mind, it is actually an advantage to shoot weakside and let the strong hand do all the heavy work. It is all
a matter of knowing what hand is supposed to do what.
I normally shoot handguns from a modified, right side Weaver
shooting stance, but can transition pretty smoothly from a
right-side modified Weaver to an Isosceles shooting stance to
a left side modified Weaver shooting stance and back through
the Isosceles to the right side again. The difficult part,
until I am totally used to carrying on my weak side, is to
remember that I am starting from the left side and not the
right side. I see a lot of left-side drills in my future.
However, there is an upside to all of this.
I am enough of a realist to know that if I encounter a sticky
situation my natural inclination is to fall into the old habit
of going to my right (strong) side for the firearm. Now this
discussion is heading into the two-gun carry that is well
beyond where I want to go at this time, but I have to say that
it needs to be considered; I won’t unravel years of carry and
shooting experience from one side of the body and expect it to
go away just because I decide to carry and shoot from a
different side of the body.
As I struggle through this concept of weak side carry and
handgun operation, I’ll try to keep you abreast of the
progress. I think that there are people, like me, that want to
be as proficient with the handgun as possible and sometimes
that takes removing ourselves from our comfort zone in order
to expand our performance base. I know that it sometimes takes
a while to learn something new. I just hope that this old dog
can pick up some new tricks.
UPDATE 11/09/2016
Since I started this article, several things have come to
light. I had to make several adjustments to the holster and
that the body is not created equal on both sides. Some would
say that the latter was true and the former was a necessity
due to the latter. The fact remains that I favor my right
side, my strong side, and which comes natural to me. The
carrying of the pistol on the left side, my weak side,
revealed that certain injuries can indeed affect the
spinal/hip alignment that can make the carrying of a pistol a
not so pleasant experience, aside from the fact that drawing a
pistol from the weak side can be performed with practice –
lots of practice.
Initially, I had set the cant adjustment to the holster the
same as it would be if carried strong side, which is a little
greater than the 15-degree cant provided with the holster. By
the second day of wear, the holster and the weight of the
pistol were wearing on my left hip to the point that I had to
shift the holster far more rearward than what I would consider
a normal carry position. While the holster became tolerable
when standing, sitting with it was another matter.
I returned the cant setting to its original position, but
decided to drop the ride height of the holster further into
the trousers. That did help a bit, but it also strengthened my
belief that the human body was not intended to carry a pistol,
because there is no area that is flat on the human body. The
butt of the pistol dug into my side, and the front section of
the holster dug into my thigh when I sat. I again shifted the
holster slightly rearward to relieve the pressure on my thigh.
At least sitting was a little bit more comfortable, until it
wasn’t.
A driving test was in order. Surprisingly, the holster rode
well but I soon realized just to what disadvantage I was at
carrying on my left side while driving. If I were in a country
where the steering wheels are on the right side of the
vehicle, there would not be as much issue as I was
experiencing. With the seat belt properly fastened, accessing
the firearm is a venture worthy of a contortionist. The left
arm must be able to clear the back of the driver’s seat and
the inner part of the driver’s door. This could only be done
if I leaned quite a bit to my right, which meant pulling
against the shoulder strap of the safety belt. I found that if
I pulled the shoulder strap with my right hand, and it did not
lock into place, I could draw the pistol with my left hand
relatively easy while contorting my body to the right – but
there was no place for the muzzle of the pistol go except to
sweep across my body at some point or points, and that was not
good. Also, there was just not a good way to shoot out of the
driver’s side window (if I had to) without also contorting the
body, although shooting out of the passenger side window with
my left hand could be done. With our American vehicles, a
right hand draw has a definite advantage, from a right-to-left
cross-draw holster, a right-side hip (or IWB) holster, or even
a right-handed shoulder holster.
While you might say that a left-hand shoulder holster or a
left-to-right cross draw holster might help things, consider
that the left arm is still restricted in movement by the inner
panel of the driver’s door. Now, if the steering wheel was
centered in the vehicle…
More to come as I indulge in the quest for carrying left.
REMORA IWB Mag Holder Carry
All
I have reviewed the REMORA DUAL MAG HOLDER (IWB)
(http://guntoters.com/blog/2013/05/19/product-review-remora-iw
b-double-magazine-pouch/) and my modification of it
(http://guntoters.com/blog/2015/08/09/remora-dual-accessory-ho
lder-iwb-modification/). The modification, so far, has been a
success and I thought that it might be an interesting endeavor
to perform a like modification on the REMORA IWB Mag Holder
Carry All that contains three pouches, but with a twist.
The REMORA IWB
Mag Holder Carry All was selected for modification due to its
characteristics as outlined by the manufacturer:
REMORA IWB Mag Holder Carry All. Original “No Clip, Non-Slip”
holder features our non slip material that allows for a no
clip design.
Includes 1 Mag Holder Carry All (3 compartments)
Each compartment can accommodate a single stack .22 to a
double stack .45 mag, speed strip, small flashlight, or knife.
The Carry All can be worn on the front, back or around the
hip.
Measurement:
9 x 4.5 x 1/2 inches.
Exterior color options:
Non
Non
Non
Non
Slip
Slip
Slip
Slip
Black
White
Punch
Pink Punch
Lining Options:
Standard Denier: smooth black denier (my choice).
Black Ultra Plush: upgraded lining that gives a smoother
draw as well as an ultra plush interior for your mag.
Modification Option:
Sweat shield: protects the user’s mag from body oils and
sweat.
MY MODIFICATION OPTION:
The Original “FrankenMora”
With the modification of the REMORA DUAL MAG HOLDER (IWB), I
used a J-clip to ensure that the holder would not slip down
inside of the pants. The REMORA DUAL MAG HOLDER (IWB) works
great inside a cargo pants pocket; magazines can be retrieved
without the entire unit coming out with them. If the REMORA
DUAL MAG HOLDER (IWB) is worn IWB; however, there is a chance
that you might be chasing it down inside the leg of your
trousers. Although the REMORA DUAL MAG HOLDER (IWB) has
excellent gripping capabilities, it also has its limits.
Let’s face it – we all have to go to the bathroom sometime and
sometimes we have to go, well, number two. This entails (for
most of us) dropping trousers and underwear. The REMORA
products, as good as they are, really do not take to this
human interaction with porcelain well; the magazine holder
must be removed and set aside. There is also that time when we
are getting ready for a good nights sleep and need to hang up
the pants; the magazine holder must be removed and set aside.
One answer to halt the occurrence of said slippage, or having
to remove the unit and set it aside, is to ensure that the
magazine holder, or holster, is securely attached to the belt.
My “FrankenMora” modification, although it does work as
planned, has one weakness – the J-clip. The J-clip could work
it way out of position with the belt when belt tension is
released when “droppin’ trou” for the aforementioned events.
The obvious solution is to go for a more secure attachment
system.
The “FrankenMora 2” Components
Hark! The “FrankenMora2” Pouch Lives!
I decided to expand my magazine carry capabilities with the
three compartment unit. In doing so, and with my previous
modification in mind, I decided to go with a dual clip
attachment. Rather than using J-clips; however, I opted for
more secure “standard” metal clips. I had an IWB holster that
had the aforementioned metal clips, and I cannibalized the
clips and mounting hardware for the “FrankenMora 2” project.
Selecting a spot in each compartment divider about 1” from the
bottom of the unit, I punched two holes with an appropriate
hollow-point punch (3/16”) the same approximate holes size of
the captive nuts for the holster mounting. It really didn’t
matter what side of the REMORA IWB Mag Holder Carry All
contained screws or nuts, as the unit is structured the same
on both sides.
With the captive nuts pushed into the fabric of the unit, I
had to decide if rubber spacer washers were to be used. The
rubber spacer washers are used with the holster to produce a
gap in which can be tucked. With the material of the REMORA
IWB Mag Holder Carry All, it was highly unlikely that I would
be tucking in a shirt; I opted to use the rubber spacer
washers anyway to prevent the possibility of the edge of the
clips from digging into the material. In a short period of
time, the “FrankenMora 2” pouch came into being.
The ability to wear the REMORA IWB Mag Holder Carry All on the
front, back or around the hip has not diminished. In fact, it
is more secure now than ever.
“FrankenMora2” w/three 1911“ F r a n k e n M o r e 2 ”
Magazines
Springfield
w/three
13-round
Magazines
I normally carry spare magazines somewhere around the appendix
position. It is a simple matter of attaching the clips to the
belt at the desired position and then move on in life. As is
advertised by the manufacturer, I can still carry any
combination of flashlight, folding knife, and magazine that I
like – even with the modification. Since I use the double
Remora unit for carrying a flashlight and folding knife on the
weak side, the REMORA IWB Mag Holder Carry All houses three
magazines of whatever capacity I need for the EDC. Housing
three single-stack magazines for a 1911 or three high-capacity
staggered magazine is not a problem.
The things that I do like about the Remora line of holsters
and “accessory” pouches is the low and thin profile and the
way that they conform to the shape of the body. I have tried
IWB hybrid mag holders in the past and I find most of them
severely lacking in concealability let alone comfort. While
carrying three high-capacity staggered magazines of .45ACP IWB
is not comfortable, the Remora makes carrying these magazines
more tolerable than most. The material also has exceptional
wear characteristics and cushions whatever is carried.
The Remora accessory product also handles short magazines, as
found in both single and double-stack configurations, quite
well. I have not had to stuff “stuff” in any compartment to
ensure the proper depth for a short magazine; the material
itself holds the magazines securely in place. Coupled with the
pressure of the body against the product, whatever is stuffed
into the compartments will stay stuffed into the compartments.
I normally wear a t-shirt and my shirts not tucked and not
buttoned. The Remora accessory holders, with my modification,
ensures that the holders are worn as low as possible, which
also aids in lowering the height of any accessory (flashlight,
knife, and magazine) carried in it.
With the REMORA DUAL MAG HOLDER (IWB) or REMORA IWB Mag Holder
Carry All, and with my modification, you can be assured that
what you carry in them is going to be solidly held in place.
Go ahead, drop those trousers, and not worry about it!
Making this small modification to a Remora Accessory pouch,
double or triple compartment, will assist in ensuring that
magazines and other accessories stay where they are needed
until they are needed.
It’s Not What You See…
…It’s What is Actually Hidden…
…That is the Story of the “FrankenMora2”
RESOURCES:
REMORA
DUAL
MAG
HOLDER
(IWB):
https://www.remoraholsterstore.com/product/dual-mag-hold
er/
REMORA
MAG
HOLDER
CARRY
ALL
(IWB):
https://www.remoraholsterstore.com/product/mag-holder-ca
rry-all/
Mounting Clips and Mounting Hardware: Clips, countersunk
washers, spacer washers, fastening nuts and screws can
be purchased from most hybrid holster websites. Or, if
you have a hybrid IWB holster that you are not longer
using – cannibalize it for the mounting parts.
Low Recoil Shotgun Ammunition
When can a 20-guage have more felt recoil than a 12-gauge? I
found out during the latest range session.
Fiocchi 12LE00BK
Fiocchi 12LRSLUG
I had received in some Fiocchi Exacta Low Recoil 1-ounce slugs
(1150 fps) and some Fiocchi Exacta Low Recoil 00 Buck (1150
fps) for the mighty 12-gauge. I wanted to compare these
against the Remington Slugger 5/8-ounce slug (1580 fps) and
Remington #3 Buck (1200 fps) for the 20-gauge. All shells are
2 ¾” chambering and high-brass. I thought that the comparison
would be interesting.
There are some, like myself, who are not fond of the recoil of
full-load 12-gauge ammunition, and instead, lean to the 20gauge for home-defense use. What I (and my shooting partner)
found during this session has changed my mind about the 12gauge.
The test vehicles were a Mossberg 500 Tactical Model in 12gauge and a Mossberg 20-gauge Tactical model. The 12-guage had
the standard 18.5-inch barrel; whereas, the 20-gauge has a 20inch barrel. A standard silhouette target was set at about 9
yards, which would be about the indoor distance of the hallway
in my home into the living room. Nine yards would also be a
good distance to “pattern” the 12-gauge 00 Buck and 20-gauge
#3 Buck.
On the shooting table, the 12-gauge shotgun was on my left and
the 20-gauge shotgun to my right. Both were set so that the
chamber was exposed. I would lay a Fiocchi low-recoil slug in
the 12-gauge and a 5/8-ounce “Slugger” shell in the 20-gauge.
Then I would shoot the 12-gauge, set it down, and then shoot
the 20-gauge. I would repeat this test for the 12-gauge
Fiocchi low recoil 00 Buck and the 20-gauge Remington #3 Buck;
gauging (no pun intended) the felt recoil of each.
First, let’s make things easy. The velocity of the 12-gauge
Fiocchi low-recoil 00 Buck and the Remington 20-gauge #3 Buck
is fifty feet-per-second. There was no appreciable difference
in felt recoil between the two. When running the slugs;
however, there was a different tune to be whistled.
While no 12-gauge shell is actually pleasurable to shoot,
having a 1-ounce slug recoil less than a 5/8-ounce 20-gauge
slug is actually a pleasurable thought – and so it was. The
difference in felt recoil between the Fiocchi low-recoil 1ounce slug and the Remington 5/8-ounce 20-gauge slug was
impressionable. One would not think that a mere 430-fps would
make that much of a difference. Even the muzzle blast noise of
the Fiocchi ammunition was much less – and that makes a big
difference if you have to light one off indoors and you didn’t
have time to get hearing protection in place.
The recoil impulse of the Fiocchi Exacta Low Recoil 1-ounce
slugs was more of a heavy shove; whereas the recoil impulse of
the Remington Slugger 5/8-ounce slug was sharp and to the
point. The former lends to quicker follow up shots.
As far as the patterning with the buckshot loads, both the
low-recoil Fiocchi 00 Buck and Remington #3 Buck patterned
well at the target distance. With the low-recoil Fiocchi 00
Buck, you still have nine .32 caliber pellets at your
disposal; whereas, with the Remington 20-gauge #3 Buck there
is twenty .24 caliber pellets blasting out of the end of the
barrel. There was a small scattering of pellets near the outer
edge of the 9-ring of the target with a few creeping just
beyond the 9-ring. With that said, any center-mass shot with
either load would make a Coroner cuss.
Now, we can talk energy figures all day, but in practical
terms, there is enough energy with any of these loads to get
the job done for defensive purposes – 12-gauge or 20-gauge –
no matter. I think that there will be some more of this lowrecoil fodder coming into the house and I just may find myself
dusting off the trusty-twelves.
It is important to note that low-recoil ammunition works fine
in pump-type shotguns, but may not work so well for
effectively cycling the action of semi-automatic shotguns.
RESOURCES:
Fiocchi Low Recoil 12 Gauge 1 oz. 2 3/4″ Slugs with Can:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/fiocchi-low
-recoil-12-gauge-1-oz-2-3-4-slugs-with-can?a=1510511
Fiocchi, 12 Gauge, 2 3/4″ “00” Low Velocity Buckshot, 80
Rounds:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/fiocchi-12gauge-2-3-4-00-low-velocity-buckshot-80-rounds?a=1499498
Ruger MKIV
Review
Target
(40101)
I rarely get excited about
firearms that are coming out
these days, although some of
them are really nice. The Smith
& Wesson “Victory” was an
exception and it is a fine
pistol of the .22 caliber
persuasion. The single-point take-down system, consisting of a
screw, was welcomed with me and the pistol was destined to be
shot as often as possible. Well, that may have changed a bit.
I have owned my fair share of Ruger “MK” pistols through the
years, including a first generation MKIII 22/45 that I still
own. Most of the “MK” pistols have left the fold to allow
someone else the joy of disassembly and assembly and I rarely,
unless I want to test my patience with disassembling and
assembling the darn thing, does it see the range.
All of a sudden a surge of excitement swept through the body
when I found out about the new Ruger MKIV that boasts a method
of disassembly and assembly that should have been
incorporated, I thought, many moons ago if Ruger was really
listening to its customer base. Well, it seems that Ruger has
finally seen the light – and I wanted a piece of that light.
The Ruger MKIV target model that I purchased is not “Top of
the Line” although I have to say that the “Hunter” model spoke
words to me. I am an everyday man like most and felt that an
“everyday man’s pistol” was all that I needed. And, in all
honesty, I can say that the cost of the MKIV was within the
realm of what could be considered a “frugal” man’s budget.
This review is not going to go into as much detail that I am
known for. Jeff Quinn of Gunblast.com (see link at end of
article) does an excellent job of reviewing the “Hunter”
model. Reviews of models previous to the MKIV are plentiful,
and while some are exceptionally written, most can be painful
to read – since the Ruger Standard pistol has been around
since 1949 and I feel no need to rehash history. There are
enough significant changes with the Ruger MKIV, as compared to
previous model; however, that do need “hashing” and I am happy
to hash those out with you.
First, let’s take a look at the basic specification and
features of the MKIV.
THE BASICS:
THE KEY FEATURE:
10-Second Disassembly – If
you Are Slow About it
The Locking Plate for the
Upper Assembly Is Under
Spring Tension
The key feature of the Ruger MKIV is, of course, the advanced
take-down mechanism that separates the MKIV form any other
Ruger “Mark” pistol. No longer needed are; paper clips,
mallets, or an extensive compilation of conflagrant cuss
words.
When the Ruger MKIV pistol is deemed to be safe, and the
magazine removed, the pistol needs to be cocked and the thumb
safety lever placed in the “safe” position. Then, while
holding the barrel with one hand, the thumb of the other hand
presses a button inward to release the upper assembly.
Note that the Takedown Button is under spring tension; enough
so that the Takedown button won’t be pushed easily and
accidentally release the upper assembly.
Once the upper assembly is free from the Bolt Stop, the upper
assembly can be removed from the frame. Once the upper
assembly is removed from the frame, the bolt can be removed
from the upper assembly. That’s it and is as simple as that.
Upper Mounting Points
Lower Mounting Points
To reassemble, place the bolt into the upper assembly.
Place the barrel/receiver assembly on top of the frame so that
the notch in the receiver aligns with the pivot pin in the
grip frame.
Rotate the barrel/receiver assembly down on to the bolt-stop
pin in the grip frame.
Gently squeeze the barrel/receiver assembly and the grip frame
assembly together so that a click is heard and check to ensure
that they are firmly together and cannot be pulled apart.
Replace the
pistol in a
position to
cock the gun
empty magazine into the magazine well, point the
safe direction, place the safety in the “off”
expose the red dot, and pull the trigger to de(dry-firing is safe to do with the Ruger MKIV).
It needs to be noted that once the upper is locked into place
with the lower, there is absolutely no detectable play between
the upper-to-lower fit.
With this new take-down and assembly system, there should be
absolutely no excuse for not taking care of the pistol.
AMBIDEXTROUS SAFETY:
The new Ruger
MKIV comes with an ambidextrous thumb safety lever – not a
button as on previous versions. However, there is a feature
that some stone-cold right-handed shooters may like – the
right side safety lever can be removed.
To remove the right-side safety lever, the right-side grip
panel must be removed. Removal of the grip panels require the
use of a 3/32” Allen wrench. Next, remove the right side lever
using a 1/16” hex Allen wrench. Then, install a spacer
(provided with the pistol) in place of the safety lever.
Finally, install the right side grip panel using the original
screws.
The safety lever are extended and neither seemed to interfere
with the thumb of my shooting hand using a low-thumb shooting
grip. I did find the safety lever difficult to move from the
“fire” position into the “Safe” position when using the thumb
of the shooting hand. I also had difficulty pushing the safety
down with the thumb of the shooting hand. It seemed to be
best, for me, to use the thumb of the support hand to operate
the safety lever. With that said, the right-side safety lever
did pinch my shooting hand on several occasions when moving
the safety lever down into the “Fire” position. For me, the
right side safety lever will be removed; one should be able to
operate the safety lever without having to shift the shooting
hand out of the way of the safety lever. I simply find the
right side safety lever bothersome. Note that the left-side
safety lever cannot be removed, at least not in the same
fashion as the right-side safety lever.
BOLT-STOP THUMBPIECE:
The Bolt Stop Thumbpiece (Ruger’s term) is extended and should
be within reach of most thumbs. Note that the Bolt Stop is a
lever-actuated device and not a button as was previous MK II
versions and is much better defined than the Bolt Stop Lever
of the MK III.
GRIP FRAME:
Unlike previous Ruger MK pistol, the grip frame (the lower) is
now a one-piece CNC machined lower. The lower of the “Target”
model that I have is aluminum; whereas, there is a stainless
steel version of the target model and the top-of-the-line
“hunter” model’s lower, which is also stainless steel and all
one-piece CNC machined.
GRIP PANELS:
The grip panels are of black polymer with the Ruger logo. The
grip panels are fastened to the frame with 3/32” hex screws.
The texture of the grip panels is somewhat aggressive due to
the diamond-checkering.
Just below the Slide Lock is what, seemingly, provides a thumb
rest that keeps the thumb away from the Slide Lock lever and
the Magazine Release button.
MKIV w/Hogue Slip-On Grip – A temporary arrangement
I will, no doubt, exchange the standard grip panels with
something more my liking; the Ruger oversized target grips, or
even the Ruger MKIV “Hunter” wood grip panels. For the time
being, a Packmyr grip sleeve with finger grooves calms the
harshness of the grip panels and also adds a little girth to
the grip that my hand likes. I also noticed that with the
larger grip radius that my normal shooting hand (right) is not
being pinched by the right-side thumb safety lever. Going to a
larger grip may solve two issues that I have with the pistol.
MAGAZINES:
The Ruger MKIV ships with two, 10-round magazines. Note that
the Ruger MKIV also uses MKIII magazines. The magazines have a
polymer base plate and the magazine can be disassembled for
maintenance or parts replacement.
The Magazine Release Button, which is located just rearward of
the trigger guard, is extended and sits very close the leftside grip panel. I had no problem releasing magazines without
changing my shooting grip when the need arose. The magazines
spring outward from the frame when they are released; no more
grabbing the bottom of the magazine to strip it from the
frame.
SIGHTS:
The sights are of the notch and post type without
embellishment. The front sight; however, can be easily
exchanged with a sight of your choosing, such as the fiberoptic sight found on the “Hunter” model, which will probably
be my sight of choice.
The upper assembly is drilled and tapped receiver for Weaver
or Picatinny rail for easy mounting of optics (the rail is not
included).
TRIGGER:
The trigger is a curved affair with a serrated face that
provides a nice surface for the trigger finger.
There is about 3/8” of slack until the trigger encounters
resistance. From that point, there is an ever-so-slightly
feeling of mushiness until the trigger breaks clean at
approximately 4-pounds and fifteen ounces. I suspect that the
trigger will smooth out after use. The trigger pull is
reminiscent of the 1911 pistol, and 1911 folks should like it.
Note that because of the magazine disconnect safety; the Ruger
MKIV cannot be fired with the magazine out of the pistol.
AT THE RANGE:
I had a variety of ammunition to try out in the new Ruger MKIV
pistol:
Remington 36 grain CPHP (1280 fps)
Fiocchi 38 grain CPHP (1260 fps)
Federal Target Grade Performance 40-grain solid (1200
fps)
CCI 36-grain CPHP Mini-mag (1260 fps)
CCI Blazer 40-grain LRN (1235 fps)
I decided to use the CCI 36-grain CPHP Mini-mag (1260 fps) as
the “standard” and, if needed) to adjust the rear sight
according to this round.
I was especially interested in how the Federal Target Grade
Performance 40-grain solid (1200 fps) was going to perform, as
it would not cycle the action properly in the Smith & Wesson
Victory, and had the slowest velocity of all the rounds to be
run.
Once sighted in, I planned on shooting a full magazine (10rounds) of each, and then play a little with some offhandshooting.
I also decided to bench rest the pistol throughout the
accuracy portion of the shooting session and use the sights as
they came from the factory – black on black, which was going
to prove to be interesting since the targets that I was hoping
to impact were national Rifle Association OFFICIAL 50FT SLOW
FIRE PISTOL targets set at the 15 yard line – and have a black
bulls-eyes. It was going to be a challenge for these old eyes
in an indoor range where the lighting plays havoc on my eyes.
So, and being right up front with y’all, shooting results are
not indicative of the pistol but of the operator. If I could
keep the majority of my shots in the 3” black circle of the
target, once sighted in, it would be a very good day. In
short, the Ruger MKIV is far more capable of accurate shots
than I am. But, this was the first time with the pistol and I
was really interested in what I could pull off.
To put things into perspective, the Ruger MKIV was not the
only evaluation for the day. Earlier, I and a shooting
companion were doing some 2 ¾” shotgun shell felt recoil
comparisons. For the comparisons, I had Fiocchi 12-gauge 1
ounce low recoil slugs (1150 fps) vs. Remington 20-gauge 5/8ounce Slugger (Hollow Point Rifled Slug @ 1580 fps) and 12gauge Fiocchi low recoil 00 Buck (1150 fps) vs. Remington 20gauge #3 Buck (1200 fps). The 12-gauge rounds were fired from
a Mossberg shotgun with a 18” barrel; whereas, 20-gauge shells
were fired from a Mossberg 20-gauge “Tactical” with a 20”
barrel. In theory, the 20-gauge ammunition should exhibit more
felt recoil than the 12-gauge ammunition, but that is a
separate article completely lest I digress too far.
After a short break following the “Gauge” test, I was ready to
somewhat settle into a very pleasant, very low recoil,
shooting experience with the new Ruger MKIV pistol.
Every shot fired went without a hitch; no FTEs, no FTFs, Nada,
nothing! The sights were spot on in that if you placed the top
of the front sight on the “X”, and everything else went
perfect, a hole would appear in the “X”. No sight adjustment
was needed.
The Federal Target Grade Performance 40-grain solid (1200 fps)
turned in the best group and cycled the action just fine,
thank you. The Remington CPHP did well as did the CCI Mini-Mag
(if you discard my two fliers). CCI Blazer turned in, what I
feel, was the poorest performance of the lot.
Below is a slideshow of the session results. Note again that I
tried to line up the sights to the center of the target as
close as I could; I was trying to line of the “ghost” of the
sight-lines, as the sights are really blurry to me with the
indoor range lighting. And, I sure could have used a painted
front sight. Those are my excuses and I am sticking to them.
With that said, this was a good first time with the pistol. It
can only get better from here.
L’IMPRESSIONE FINALE:
Not Just Another MK Pistol
While I have always liked the “Bill Luger” line of MK pistols,
the MKIV finally brings the line up to something that I really
like.
The MKIV retains the look and feel of the MK line and my
impression of the MK line has always favored quality, but not
necessarily one of operator friendliness. With the noted
unfriendly ambidextrous safety under my belt, I can say that
the Ruger MKIV pistol is a quality and well thought out pistol
that allows me not to use profane language as much as before
regarding the take-down and, especially, the assembly
procedure. I admit that during take-down I did use one profane
word, and it fell between ”Well” and “Hallelujah!” The
expletive was said in the most joyous of temperament since it
was a blessed event.
The Ruger quality of build is apparent throughout the new
Ruger MKIV pistol form the bluing, the machining, and quality
of fit.
With a few personal changes to my MKIV Target pistol, I think
that this pistol will be seeing many range days.
I do have to admit; however, as nice as the base-line MKIV
“Target” model is, the “Hunter” model has garnered my
attention now where it would have been quickly passed over
before. It would seem that the “Hunter” model is very popular;
my LGS has a BOLO with five different suppliers in an effort
to locate one for me.
UPDATE 11/12/2016:
I had mentioned previously about replacing the grip panels
that came with with Ruger MKIV “Target” model with panels for
the “Hunter” model. A set was ordered and what a difference
they make to the grip; much smoother without the hard
checkering of the “Target” plastic grips. The wood grip panels
also make the MKIV “Target” much more visually-appealing, in
my opinion.
I also decided to remove the right-side thumb safety lever and
replace it with the bushing that Ruger provided for doing
such. It is nice not having the right-side thumb safety lever
pinching the hand or embedding itself in the fleshy part of my
shooting finger.
Standard Grip Panels with a much needed grip sleeve for
comfort (Left) and the new Ruger Wood Grip Panels (Right)
Right Side Thumb Safety Lever Was Removed for Comfort Reasons
DON’ JUS’ TAKE MY WORD FOR IT:
Jeff Quinn does an outstanding job of reviewing the new Ruger
MKIV (text and with video) and I have provided a link to that
review below:
Ruger’s New Mark IV Semi-Automatic 22
http://www.gunblast.com/Ruger-MKIV.htm
LR
Pistol:
Also, watch 22Plinkster’s review of the MKIV
RUGER
MARK
IV
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqbiyPMA7CE
REVIEW:
And, leave it to Hickok45 to provide his opinion:
http://www.thecollegefix.com/post/29757/:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjsMSToXO60
Aside from 22Plinkster’s review of the MKIV target, he also
draws some comparison to the Smith and Wesson Victory:
RUGER MARK 4 VS S&W VICTORY – WHICH IS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WETsKevL6WA
BETTER?:
RESOURCES:
Ruger®
Mark
IV™
Rimfire
Pistols:
http://ruger.com/products/markIV/overview.html
Springfield Armory XDM 5.25,
Model XDM952545BHCE, .45ACP
Review
The Three Amigos – XDM 3.8
Compact (Front), XDM 4.5
(Center), and XDM 5.25
(Rear)
I have long been a fan of Springfield Armory products. I would
say that Ruger and Springfield Armory (mentioned in
alphabetical order simply not to place one above the other)
comprise the majority of firearms in the collection.
It could be said that the .45 ACP is my favorite cartridge and
it would not be incorrect in saying that, and I have several
Springfield Armory semi-automatic pistol chambered in that
specific cartridge. There was a desire in me; however, to
expand my Springfield horizons and go big. Big, in this sense,
meant a long-barreled semi-automatic polymer pistol chambered
in my favorite cartridge. The Springfield XDM MOD 2 has a 9mm
version with a 5” barrel, but that wasn’t going to satisfy me.
I needed bigger! The XDM 5.25 seemed to be the only direction
to go in the Springfield line.
Of course, there are other “Competition” pistols on the market
in .45ACP, the Glock G41 GEN4 .45 AUTO CHAMPION for one with
its 5.31-inch barrel and its capacity of thirteen rounds, and
also a plethora of 1911 “Long-Slide” pistols intended for
competition. Smith & Wesson also has a line of “performance”
pistols, but at this time the .45ACP is not among them.
Essentially, the choices come down to Glock or Springfield
Army for the polymer family of (affordable) performance
products.
The truth of the matter is that deciding on the Springfield
XDM 5.25 was a very easy decision to make and was based on my
short experience with the XDM 3.8 and XDM 4.5 versions.
The Glock G41 GEN4 .45 AUTO CHAMPION was out for its
size, because I had another intention for the pistol
needed to know my limits according to my intentions.
authored an article regarding competition pistols for
sheer
and I
I had
home-
defense purposes (Long Slide Competition Pistols – For Home
Defense?:
http://guntoters.com/blog/2015/03/07/long-slide-pistols-for-ho
me-defense/), but my intention for the Springfield XDM 5.25
was to go beyond home defense and into the EDC personal
defense arena.
You see, carrying a “Government” model 1911 with a five-inch
barrel is not a big thing for me; I have been doing it for
years IWB and concealed. My evolving into the polymer pistol
arena gave me pause for thought about just how big, at the
minimum, does a pistol need to be before I could no longer
conceal it effectively – seasonal considerations aside. For
me, the Glock G41 would push me past my limits for concealed
carry. The Springfield XDM 5.25; however, may just be within
the realm of reason with an appropriate holster and clothing
combination – even in the hot Georgia Summer sun.
Although I do like stainless-steel, I opted for the Melonite
version because my intention for the pistol was not for
competition. Also, I wanted to make the XDM 5.25 part of the
family and a stainless-steel version may feel like a redheaded step-child among the rest of the kids.
The purpose of this product review is not only to provide
information regarding the Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition
Model, but also to test the viability of carrying such as
pistol as a PDA (Personal Defense Assistant). In short, the
write-up may get quite lengthy. So, jump on board and enjoy
the ride.
THE BASICS:
VISUAL APPEAL:
Impressive, yes?
It seems lately that some manufactures are going all out in
texturing pistols for appeal and they may be going way
overboard in that department. There are people who like
clutter and people who do not like clutter. Fashion over form
seems commonplace with some pistol designs. Fortunately,
Springfield has not completely succumbed to that thinking and
has attracted and retained some customers, including me,
because of that fact.
Of most of the pistol manufactures, I think that Glock and
Springfield are visually appealing pistols. The clean lines of
the Glock pistol are obvious and are visually appealing.
Springfield Armory has an appeal of its own, although the
pistols are somewhat cluttered. Clutter; however, can be made
to seem uncluttered. Springfield Armory has, what I believe to
be, uncluttered clutter. The Springfield XDM 5.25 exhibits
blended lines but yet an aggressiveness in texture where
needed.
The 5.25-inch barrel and grip size lends to the balanced look
of the pistol. The barrel length, in my opinion, is more
befitting the grip length than is the barrel length of the XDM
4.5.
The XDM 5.25 is not a svelte pistol in any form or fashion. It
is a handful of pistol and in no way is “compactness” one of
its virtues. The XDM 5.25 indicates that it is all business,
but can be used for pleasure as well.
The XDM 5.25, for all appearances, is a well-made, heavilyconstructed pistol. The XDM 5.25 simply looks like a heavyweight contender, and the truth of the matter is, it is.
THE (LONG) SLIDE:
Comparison Between the XDM
3.8 Compact (Front) and XDM
5.25 (Rear)
The slide of the XDM 5.25 is not the longest of polymer
pistols in the .45 ACP class room; the Glock G41 with its
5.31-inch barrel, takes that honor (as far as I am aware of).
Forty-three separate components comprise the complete slide
assembly.
The slide, like other XDM products, is nicely contoured at the
top to reduce the slide’s profile. One major difference
between the XDM 5.25 slide, and what is not found in other XDM
pistols, is the lightening cut in the slide that reduces
reciprocating mass, which allows for faster cycling and allows
a larger variety of loads to be used. Overall, the weight of
the XDM 5.25 (32 ounces) is only one ounce heavier than the
XDM 4.5 model, but is five ounces heavier than the XDM 3.8
Compact model. The Glock G41, by comparison, is twenty-seven
ounces (dry w/magazine installed).
Fully receiving the Melonite treatment, the finish is durable
as it is pleasing to look at. Adding to the pleasurable
appearance is the way the Springfield chose to contour the
dust cover rearward rather than it having a simple “blunt”
end. This feature adds a stylish rake to the front end of the
pistol, don’t you think?
Chevron serrations front and real provide a good surface for
the hand when manually cycling the action. The serrations are
bold but are not obtrusive to the hand. I have tried the
“Israeli Method” of racking the slide, and while this does
take some strength, the serrations are helpful in performing
this method.
“Bill-boarding” is seen throughout the slide in the form of
laser etching. I really don’t mind the Springfield logo laser
etched on the top of the slide just forward of the chamber. I
do think that some of these manufacturers should take up the
Rock Island Armory model of “less is more” in their “billboarding” of pistols. Besides, trying to read all the laser
etching while the slide is in operation is impossible.
The finishing on the inside of the slide is impeccable and
everyplace that should be shiny and/or polished is and free of
the Melonite treatment.
The 5.25-inch barrel is a substantial piece of steel that has
received the Melonite treatment with the exception of the
chamber and the inside of the barrel. A fully supported and
highly-polished feed ramp ensures positive feeding as does a
very stout, non-captured spring and a full-length steel guide
rod recoil system. The 5.25-inch barrel translates into a
slight gain in velocity, a longer sight radius, and depending
on the operator – a slight gain in accuracy. In competition, a
long barrel is a plus, but is it a negative when trying to
conceal the pistol for every day carry? More on concealing the
XDM 5.25 to come.
The Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Guide Rod are separate
units; they are not captive as with the XDM 3.8. The Recoil
Spring Guide Rod has also received the Melonite treatment The
Recoil Spring has a substantial spring rate that I would
estimate to be around eighteen pounds. It is interesting to
note that the Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Guide Rod are
identical to that of the XDM 4.5.
As with all XDM pistols, the extractor is internal to the
slide, that pleases me, and it seems to perform its job well
as boinks to the head, neck, and arms is evident by expended
cases being bounced off of the firing lane wall, which also
means that the Ejector is doing a fine job. The ejection port
is more than adequate enough to ensure that expended cases are
expelled without interference.
At the rear of the ejection port sits a spring-loaded “Loaded
Chamber Indicator” that is both tactile and visual.
Just rearward of the “Loaded Chamber Indicator” is a hole that
a lot of people associate with the Loaded Chamber Indicator
but, in fact, is not. The hole is for the Striker Retainer
Pin, which holds the striker in place during normal operation.
Because of Striker Retainer Pin, I have heard that excessive
dry firing of the pistol should be avoided without the use of
a Snap Cap, which will prevent the Striker from deforming the
Striker Retaining Pin.
At the rear of the slide is the Striker Status Indicator that
informs you if the firearm is ready to fire whether the
firearm is loaded or not. If the Striker Status Indicator” is
visible, the pistol is cocked. The Striker Status Indicator is
under spring tension. When the Striker is forward, the Striker
Status Indicator cannot be seen and the striker is not in a
cocked condition. When the Striker is rearward (cocked), the
Striker Status Indicator is visible.
TALK TO THE HAND – THE FRAME:
XDM Grip Texturing
The frame texture and feel is the same as with the Springfield
4.5, but if you have not handled the Springfield 4.5 allow me
to state that it is very nice. Fifty-three individual parts
(including 5 magazine parts and excluding two interchangeable
back-strap adapters) make up the synergetic frame.
The meta-reinforced polymer frame is substantial and, in many
ways, I feel is superior to the frame found on Glock pistols.
My hand just falls right into place on the XDM 5.25 (in fact,
on all of the XDM models) due to the grip angle; whereas, with
the Glock pistol (any of them) it seems that my hand is
constantly searching for that “sweet spot.”
For you folks who just demand that a pistol must have a means
of attaching accessories, the XDM 5.25 will meet that demand.
An under-rail with three slots should allow the mounting of
your favorite light, laser, light/laser combination, or even a
very small vertical hand-grip. Since I like a snack during a
good gunfight, I just may rig up a mount to hold a couple of
“Slim Jim” min-bites.
Just rearward of the rail, you will find the serial number
plate.
The texture of the grip area, while aggressive, is not so
aggressive that it hurts the hand and/or leaves impressions in
the hand as with the XDS series of Springfield pistols. The
hand just seems to gravitate to the texture naturally. The XDM
5.25 (and XDM 3.8 Compact and 4.5) is just one of those
pistols where I don’t feel like the pistol is sliding around
in my hand and that means quite a bit in regards to control
and handling of a pistol.
The only thing that I would like is finger grooves, but that
is a personal “like” and I could add a grip sleeve with finger
grooves to the handle, but that would increase the width of an
already wide grip. As it is, the grip is just fine for most
uses. After getting used to a “finger groove” grip on my 1911
pistols, I just feel a “wanting” on other pistols.
Also included in the grip area is more “bill-boarding” in the
form of XDM, MADE IN CROATIA, and SPRINGFIELD INC. GENESERO
ILL.
Whether you are a right or left-handed shooter, there is a
nice groove in the upper part of the grip that the thumb seems
to just fall into. The “groove” also serves as a guide for the
trigger finger to the trigger on the opposite side of the
frame. If you are a “high-thumbs” shooter, as I am with a
1911, the thumb grooves take a bit of getting used to, but
using them keeps my thumb away from the Slide Lock Lever; the
pressing of which could result in a failure of the slide to
lock back on the last round.
The frame railing is a two part system; a substantial front
rail that is part of the locking block, and a substantial
polymer rear rail that is part of the frame. The slide-to-rail
fit is excellent.
Locking Block Pins
One of the features of the XD line of pistol that I can
appreciate is that the Locking Block is robust and wellembedded into the meat of the frame. One of the failings of
the Glock pistol (excluding the G43 and G42) is that the area
surrounding the upper Locking Block pin is susceptible to
damage after very high round counts or the over-use of +P
ammunition. I have personally seen two examples of cracked
Glock frames at this point of contention. The Locking Block in
the XDM is well-designed and well-mounted, in my opinion.
The frame incorporates the Disassembly and Slide Stop Lever
(See, I AM IN CONTROL).
One of the features of the XD series of pistols is the
integral Grip Safety; one of the features that many of us 1911
operators appreciate. The Grip Safety must be pressed to fire
the pistol. The Grip Safety must also be pressed to move the
slide to the rear, which may be awkward at first for some, but
is easily managed by most.
The trigger guard incorporates a serrated front finger rest
for those who prefer one. The trigger guard is large enough
for a gloved hand and the frame incorporates a slight well to
the rear of the trigger guard to help the rest of the fingers
to get as close to the bottom of the trigger guard (and high
on the back-strap) as possible.
The trigger incorporates the now-seems-to-be-standard integral
Trigger Safety Lever (otherwise known technically as the
Trigger Flapper). The trigger finger must be inserted fully
into the trigger guard and engage the trigger face, which
allows the trigger to be pulled rearward. There is more
information about the trigger characteristics in TRIGGER.
Plenty of Pistol with Plenty
of Grip
The trigger reach (the distance from the center of the trigger
face to the rear of the back-strap with the grip safety
pressed) is approximately 2-5/8 inches. This means that folks
with small of chubby hands should have no problem reaching the
trigger and selecting a grip insert for your hand may help in
that department.
Grip Adaption Options
The XDM 5.25 came with three back-strap grip adapters. The No
1 (the smallest) grip adapter was installed on the pistol out
of the box and will remain on the pistol for my hands. That
may sound funny coming from somebody who sometimes puts grip
sleeves on Glock pistols to increase the grip width, but the
grip of the pistol feels right for my hand. Given the grip
angle of the pistol, the grip has the feel of a 1911 or a CZ75
and I like that feeling.
The pistol has an excellent beaver-tail area that aids in
getting the shooting hand high on the back-strap but
eliminates any concern about slide bite.
The grip is wide and long and there is no doubt about that.
There is enough space to place all of my fingers around the
grip area with a bit of grip left over. The XDM 4.5 grip area
is that of a full-size service pistol. The grip area on the
XDM 3.8, even with the extended 13-round magazine and grip
sleeve, does not feel as good as the grip on the XDM 4.5 and
5.25 for me.
Turning to the magazine well, we find a beveled one, which
definitely assists in slapping home a wide-body double-stack
magazine, of which the XDM 5.25 comes with three.
Just behind the trigger guard, we find ambidextrous magazine
release buttons that should make lefties happy. In fact, they
make this “righty” happy when I am operating a pistol lefthanded.
The magazine release buttons are extended but not obtrusively
so. The magazine release buttons can be operate easily by
thumb or finger, but are a little stiff and feel slightly
gritty when new; a quick spot of Ballistol during my
“prepping” the pistol for duty smoothed-out out the magazine
release button stiff and gritty issue. Push a magazine release
button and magazines drop free as is to be expected.
SIGHTS:
XDM 5.25 Front Sight
An obvious advantage of long-slide pistols is the long sight
radius. Although the barrel of the Glock G41 is longer, the
sight radius of the XDM 5.25 is the longer of the two at 7.25
inches. The front fiber optic sight is also long (15mm (0.59inch) compared to the 12mm (0.46-inch) fiber-optic sight of
the XDM 4.5. This means that the front sight has more lightgathering capabilities at the expense of being more
susceptible to damage.
The fiber-optic front sight, perched just forward of the
lightning cut of the slide, is highly visible in daylight and,
like the front fiber-optic sight of the XDM 4.5, is one of the
few front sights that I can easily pick up in my indoor range.
Due to lane lighting and coating on the graduated lenses of my
glasses, trying to pick up a dot on a front side is a
challenge, but I can see the red fiber-optic bead on the front
sight even with the lane lighting off.
Springfield provides additional red and green light pipes with
the XDM 5.25 and instructions for mounting the light pipes are
included in the User Manual.
XDM 5.25 Rear Sight – Fully
Adjustable for Windage and
Elevation
The fully adjustable (windage and elevation) rear sight is a
simple affair with no dots, no white outline, but a simple
black wall (serrated to prevent glare) with a slot in which
the front sights set when properly aligned. The rear sight,
although adjustable, has a low profile and is not obtrusive as
some adjustable sights. For example, the rear “NovaK” style
sight that is on the XDM 4/5 is 5.24mm (0.20 inch) in height;
whereas, the rear sight height of the XDM 5.25 is 5.53 mm
(0.22 inch). That’s only a 0.02-inch difference in height with
the factory settings! Having worked with adjustable rear
sights on hunting and self-defense revolvers and pistols in
the past without issue, I foresee no issue with the rear sight
on the XDM 5.25.
NOTE: A rear sight adjustment tool, for adjusting windage and
elevation, is shipped with the XDM 5.25; the sight adjusting
tool is in the package with the spare front sight pipes.
I am quite used to “slot-dot” type of sighting arrangement and
I find the sight arrangement is more than adequate for
competition, plinking, or social work. Some who wish to use
the XDM 5.25 for HD or as a “duty” carry may opt for a good
set of night sights or other sight combination. Both front and
rear sights can be removed and replaced with your favorite
sight combination, but the work will take the skills of a
competent armorer to perform.
TRIGGER:
It has been said that one you shoot one Glock you can shoot
any Glock, primarily because the triggers are pretty much the
same on all “out-of-the-box” Glock pistols. With some
experience with the XDM 3.8 Compact and the XDM 4.5 the same
could pretty much be said about the XDM 5.25 version of the
XDM pistols. The trigger of the XDM 5.25 feels the same as the
trigger of the XDM 4.5 and the trigger of the XDM 3.8 pistol.
Springfield claims that all XDM pistols have “match” triggers
so it would only seem that all three have the same “feeling”
trigger. I like a trigger pull weight to be anywhere from 4
pounds to 5.5 pounds for duty work, although I can work with a
heavier trigger. Anything less than four pounds is too light
in my opinion for a defensive pistol. However, it can also
depend on the trigger’s characteristics. Please, continue
reading.
So, let’s talk briefly about the “Match” trigger; the other
part of the “M” in XD. First, there is this…
It should be noted that the term “Match Grade” has no
objective definition and it is commonly used to describe
firearms or ammunition of varying quality and may never be
found in use by professional or amateur competition shooters.
For instance, both Kimber and Nighthawk Custom fit “Match
Grade” triggers; it is difficult to objectively describe the
quality of a trigger (even a measurement of 4.5 pounds
doesn’t account for creep, over-travel, pre-travel and
grittiness), by the same token, it is difficult to dispute
the claims of either company. However, the “Match Grade”
trigger on a Kimber is nowhere near the quality of that on a
Nighthawk Custom. Para-Ordnance claims to use “Match Grade”
barrels on even their “Elite” budget priced handguns, but the
fitting of the barrel to the slide, frame, link and bushing
is critical to accuracy, so the quality of the barrel may be
of no consequence to the pistol’s ultimate accuracy
potential. Moreover, a truly match grade barrel (in use by
competition shooters) from KKM or Bar-Sto will cost nearly a
third of the total price of a Para-Ordnance Elite pistol,
still requiring careful fitting by a skilled gunsmith, it is
unlikely that such expense was taken in the manufacture or
fitment of these “Match Grade” barrels. Such comparisons
could be made at length, but the consumer should be aware
that the term “Match Grade” carries no real, objective
meaning within the firearms industry and, in many cases, it
may be nothing more than the marketing department doing their
job.
–
Source:
Wikipedia
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Match_grade)
At his point, I will say that the trigger on the XDM 5.25 is
slightly better than the trigger on the XDM 4.5 or other XDMs
that I own. The trigger on my XDM 5.25 exhibits a short takeup until resistance is felt. Then, there is a small degree of
travel through the resistance (about 4.5 pounds by my digital
trigger pull gauge) until the striker is released. The let
off; however, is crisp. The resistance does not “feel” mushy,
although some may say that it does; it just feels like a
constant resistance until let-off is obtained. Once resistance
is felt, the trigger feels like a very short throw, smooth,
double-action trigger with no staging.
The trigger actually feels good, but is obviously different
than a 1911 trigger or that found on other pistol that I have
operated. The release is very close to the frame and reset is
more toward the beginning of the resistance. The trigger
actually feels lighter when pulled. Now some may say that 4.5
pounds of trigger pull is too heavy and some may say it is too
light. For defensive use, as is the intention of this pistol,
the trigger is fine with me and I welcome a trigger that is
neither too light nor too heavy to use in a stress situation.
The trigger is constant and consistent throughout its
operation and that works for me. I am going to say that the
trigger on the XDM 5.25 is a “Court Defensible” trigger, I
would not modify it in any way, and it should serve fine for
most.
Some; however, would trick out the trigger for competition
purposes and there are several sources available for parts and
custom work. The innards of the XDM are a bit more complex
than the Glock pistol due to the grip safety and trigger
combination. Personally, I would leave any such work with a
competent and qualified armorer. For general and duty use;
however, I would not make any changes to the trigger.
But, I would like to go a little further into the XDM
operation and especially the trigger because the trigger was
one of the factors for my choosing the XDM over the Glock G21
(or even G30).
The XDM design integrates classic auto-loader mechanics with
several distinctly unconventional features. The basic
operating mechanism employs a familiar Browning-type cam-ramp,
tilt-barrel operation with a captive dual-spring recoil guide
assembly. The ignition mechanism is striker-fired and requires
a partial rearward motion of the slide (approximately 3/4
inch) to cock the system and ready the trigger. If the gun is
dry-fired, or in the event of a misfire, the trigger cannot
accomplish a repeat strike until/unless the slide is racked.
In external aspect, this system appears to operate (and feel)
much like the familiar mechanism of a Glock, as does the
hinged “Glock-like” trigger-safety lever that prevents
rearward trigger movement unless depressed by the user’s
trigger finger. However, the actual operating mechanics of the
two designs are greatly different.
The XDM mechanism completely cocks (pre-loads) the springcharged firing pin so that the only function provided by the
trigger pull is to release the sear and fire the gun. By
contrast, the Glock “Safe Action” only partly pre-loads the
firing mechanism, and the trigger pull physically completes
the cocking action as well as releasing the firing pin. The
XDM is therefore a true “single-action” trigger design because
its trigger only performs one function–releasing the firing
mechanism. The Glock is a true “double-action” trigger design
in that its trigger contributes to the actual cocking of the
mechanism as well as releasing it.
To describe the process in detail: After the XDM slide travels
rearward about 3/4 inch, the spring-loaded sear “captures” a
cocking lug on the firing pin, holding the pin compressed
fully to the rear against the pressure of the firing pin
spring when the slide travels back forward (either after a
short manual retraction of the slide or after the slide’s full
rearward travel in the firing cycle). A pull on the trigger
then moves the trigger bar and firing pin safety lever
linkages forward, which forces the sear downward and away from
the striker, and releases the striker to fire the cartridge.
The XDM pistol may “feel” like a DAO (double action only)
mechanism, but it is not. It acts like a DAO, but it isn’t,
mechanically. Springfield’s official term for the mechanism is
Ultra Safety Assurance Action Trigger System–or “USA Action”
for short. Catchy, isn’t it?
Another unique XDM design aspect is the grip safety that
prevents the gun’s trigger from being squeezed unless the grip
safety is fully pressed. The XD grip safety also freezes the
slide. If the grip safety isn’t pressed, you can’t pull the
trigger, and you can’t pull the slide to the rear to load an
empty chamber or clear a loaded chamber. You also can’t lock
the slide back on an empty gun, whether the magazine is in or
out. Plus, there is a separate internal firing pin block that
is deactivated only when the trigger is pressed all the way
rearward to the point of striker release.
LOADED CHAMBER INDICATOR AND GRIP SAFETY:
Rear View Showing Rear
Sight,
Striker
Status
Indicator, and Grip Safety
A loaded chamber indicator pops up on the top of the slide
just to the rear of the chamber when a round is ready to go.
This indicator is small, but it can be seen and readily felt
for tactile confirmation that you’re ready to shoot. The
cocking indicator at the rear of the slide also protrudes to
inform you that the striker is set to fire when the trigger is
pressed.
The grip safety on the XDM sets it apart from other similar
polymer frame/striker fired pistols. The safest manner of
carrying a semi-auto with a trigger tab-style safety is to
make sure the trigger is covered by a holster. For duty use,
this concern is handled by an officer’s duty rig. However,
sticking one of these pistols inside your waistband at the end
of your shift to carry without your duty holster is not a wise
idea.
Clothing can get knotted up inside the trigger guard and press
on the trigger as if your index finger was doing the work
instead. A holster for this kind of carry is a much safer
idea. The grip safety on the XDM lends itself as an extra
measure of safety for this type of carry. Even if the trigger
is pulled, the XDM will not fire unless the grip safety is
also pressed.
The grip safety requires a bit more training and awareness
when it comes to clearing a malfunction. The worse-case
scenario “Class 3” jam is when a cartridge case is in the
chamber and a second loaded round is nosed up against it,
trying to feed into the blocked barrel. The slide needs to be
locked to the rear to clear this type of problem.
The XDM requires the grip safety to be pressed in order for
the slide to be retracted. But, if the pistol twists in the
hand and the operator does not keep the grip safety pressed
in, the slide will not retract to the rear, but this is only
true prior to the point at which the pistol disallows rearward
movement. Allow me to explain.
Let’s say that the slide goes forward but is prevented from
fully locking up; a condition that might occur during a
“stove-pip” jam or a cartridge “nose-dives” into the frame.
The slide can still be moved rearward to free the malfunction.
There is a point that is approximately ½-inch rearward of the
barrel that the grip safety must be pressed in order for the
slide to move further rearward. Any distance past this point,
the slide can be moved rearward without the grip safety being
pressed. Essentially, the point at which the slide is
prevented from moving rearward is just about the point when
the barrel unlocks and just before the pistol is “cocked.”
I AM IN CONTROL:
In addition to a trigger safety, a drop safety prevents the
striker from releasing if the gun is dropped or exposed to a
significant impact. As of 2008, 4 inch and 5ch in XD .45 ACP
Service models are available with an optional ambidextrous
frame-mounted thumb safety. This option is now available in
9mm, .40 and .45 ACP pistols. As far as I can tell at the time
this article is being published, a thumb safety option on the
XDM models is not available.
Contoured Slide Release
Lever and Slide Lock Lever
is Located on Left Side of
Pistol
The Disassembly Lever is a simple contoured lever on the left
side of the pistol that allows you to remove the slide after
the slide is pulled fully rearward and locked into place with
the Slide Stop Lever. The Disassembly Lever is nicely serrated
to provide a good grip when handling the lever.
The Slide Stop Lever is just rearward of the trigger guard and
is easily accessible by the thumb of the shooting hand – in
most cases. The Slide Stop Lever is nicely serrated and shaped
for friendly operation. The Slide Stop Lever, of course,
allows the slide to lock back on the magazine after the last
round in the magazine has been fired. It was not intended to
be a “Slide Release” and pushing or pulling the slide rearward
on a fresh magazine would be best to prevent damage to the
slide locking point. During combat or competition; however,
I’ll leave the operation of the slide up to the operator.
DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, LUBRICATION, AND ASSEMBLY:
Disassembling the XDM 4.5 is not unlike many pistols that
incorporate a rotational Disassembly Lever in their design;
lock the slide back, rotate the disassembly lever to the
vertical position, hold the slide and press the Slide Lock
lever to release the slide, and then slowly remove the slide
from the frame.
Disassembling the slide on the XDM 5.25 is slightly different
due to the coil spring that is not captivated. I place the
slide on a soft surface so as not to damage the sights. I hold
the recoil spring and guide while pushing the base of the
guide rod forward with the thumb of my other hand to push it
out of its position on the barrel. I slowly allow the guide
rod to move rearward and once I feel all the tension go out of
the recoil spring, I then remove the recoil assembly out of
the slide.
Springfield does not include lubrication instructions in the
manual. Basically I use a light film of Lubriplate NO. 130-A
on all slide rails, barrel, lock-up points and surfaces, and
any surface that looks shiny. This pistol is not going to be
used in harsh climates or conditions. I have used Lubriplate
NO. 130-A for years on semi-automatic pistols, rifles, and
carbines for years. Your choice of lubricants, of course, is
up to you.
During an initial operations check, I noticed that the
magazine release assembly was slightly gritty in operations. A
very light dab of Ballistol (another product that I have used
for years) removed all vestige of grittiness.
Once I was satisfied with my inspection and lubrication
attempts, it was time to assemble the pistol. The non-captured
recoil spring presents a challenge, as it is quite healthy in
spring rate. I found it best to hold the recoil assembly in
place with my left hand while pushing against the base of the
guide rod until the base of the guide rod fell into its
locking notch on the barrel. This does take some “push” and
there is a possibility that the guide rod base could slip away
from the thumb. The left hand holds the recoil spring as it is
being compressed and that helps prevent the recoil assembly
from flying away into darkened corners of the room.
Once the slide is fully and correctly assembled, simply
install the slide onto the frame, move it rearward until the
slide lock point is reached and engage the Slide Lock. Rotate
the Disassembly lever down until it is horizontal to the
pistol. Grasp the slide and push it to the rear slightly to
disengage the Slide Lock. Then, slowly allow the slide to go
forward into battery. Perform a function check and you are
done.
TRIGGER DAY AND I AM NOT HORSING AROUND:
My range evaluation day was to
be an almost exact duplicate of
that I had performed with the
XDM 4.5.
A standard silhouette target was positioned ten-yards distant
and served quite well as an evaluation point.
Although the magazines do hold thirteen cartridges, I would
only load eight cartridges in the three magazines that shipped
with the pistol to break the magazines in. Cartridges
consisted of; Aguilla 230-grain FMJ (830 fps), Perfecta 230grain FMJ (850 fps estimated), Georgia Arms 230-Grain FMJ (810
fps), and hand-loads of 230-grain Xtreme FMJ over 5.6-grain of
Unique (approximately 850 fps).
Although I had loaded eight cartridges in the first magazine,
the first cold-bore, bench-rested shot revealed the “combat”
zero. At ten yards, the first shot impacted the target just
below the “X” and that meant the sights were spot-on in
adjustment for a “muzzle-covered” target. From that point, I
moved into off-hand shooting for the remainder of the first
shooting session. The pistol performed flawlessly, although
the rest of my shooting left something to be desired.
If you have followed any of my reviews, I have often stated my
issues with indoor ranges. For some reason, and it may be the
coating on the lenses of my glasses, my eyes have a difficult
time making out the dot of the front sight on pistol that have
them – even night sights. Normally, I just use the front sight
profile rather than a dot for sighting. The XDM 5.25 has been
the second pistol with which I have actually been able to see
the front fiber-optic sight while shooting at my local indoor
range – the XDM 4.5 would be the first. Outside, the sights
are clear and excellent. The red fiber-optic front sight was
very easy to see through the notch of the rear sight. I find
that I actually like the simple notch of a rear sight much
better than having it adorned with dots or a white outline.
I did learn from the previous session with the XMD 4.5 that I
was not gripping the pistol correctly. I was not lining up the
pistol with the center line of my wrist; the center line of
the pistol was more into the thumb area. I made a correction
to my grip, adjusting the back of the pistol to the center of
my forearm, and good things began to happen as the pad of my
trigger finger fell right into place on the trigger.
I tried a couple of “Mozambique” drills and also a “Stitch in
Time” drill where the first shot is to the “X”, the second
shot to the “9”, the third shot to the “8” and then continue
moving upward into a final head shot. The pistol followed my
every move and if my move was off so was the shot; I certainly
could not blame the pistol.
The trigger on the XDM 5.25 is excellent. I did not notice any
“heaviness” in the trigger – it was just a constant and
consistent pull. While the trigger of the XDM 5.25 is not as
“nice” as triggers on some of my 1911 pistols, the trigger of
the XDM 5.25 is more forgiving in that there is ample
opportunity to “back off” of a shot.
The long sight radius is very helpful, the recoil and muzzle
flip is mild, and the XDM 5.25 is just a joy of a pistol to
shoot. For comparison, I checked out a rental XDM 5.25 in 9mm
and ran a full magazine through it. Obviously, the recoil was
milder but I did find that I was not as accurate with it as I
was with the .45 ACP version of this pistol, but that probably
was more me than the pistol.
The XDM 5.25 was going to be a fine firearm to carry for my
self-defense needs. So, let’s move on the “carrying” part of
the equation.
CONCEALMENT CONSIDERATIONS:
If you have not realized it by
now, the Springfield XDM 5.25
Competition Model, in any
caliber, is a large pistol to
conceal. It also should be
realized that not everybody will
be able to conceal this pistol.
This part of the write-up is for
those who can conceal such a
large pistol, and also for those
who think that they cannot
conceal such a large pistol, but
would like to.
With some clothing, holster, and belt considerations even a
large pistol like the XDM 5.25 can be effectively concealed –
within reason, of course.
Clothing:
If you like to wear skin-tight blue jeans, the XDM 5.25 may,
indeed, not be for you. The XDM 5.25 does take up some space
inside the trousers, and when carried in an appropriate
holster, having loose-fitting trousers is a definite plus when
trying to conceal any handgun – especially a pistol the size
of the Springfield XDM 5.25.
A slim dress belt is not going to be a good thing to tighten
the trousers with the size of the Springfield XDM 5.25. In
fact, a slim dress belt may not work with many other pistols.
The belt needs to be of substantial thickness and stiffness to
handle the likes of the Springfield XDM 5.25. Personally, I
like the “liner” style of belt that has a Velcro inner lining
and also for securing the belt. I can adjust the belt to any
tightness that I prefer without concerning myself with buckles
and holes. You can find “liner” belts at most law-enforcement
web-sites and they are available in brown and black and in
plain or basket-weave stamping. Regardless of your choice of
belts, the belt must be able to pull the pistol as close into
the side as possible; you don’t want your butt a-floppn’ in
the breeze and the same should be said for the butt of handgun
you carry.
All Hidden Behind a BlanketExposed! What you Can’t
of Denim Workshirt
See Can Hurt You
My dress is normally casual, as I don’t have to “dress-up” for
work since retiring from that corporate impediment to personal
growth. My shirts are usually unbuttoned and a “casual” tshirt forms a barrier between me and the pistol being carried.
My shirts are also (at least) one size larger than what I
would wear when not carrying. In cooler weather, I may also
don a casual, not tactical vest. In cold weather, a vest and
heavier outer-coat (or jacket) rounds out the dress
requirements. Unless there is an absolute need the shirt,
vest, and coat is left not buttoned.
I prefer shirts of somewhat heavier material than dress shirts
and blue jean work shirts are worn more often than night. With
that said, there are times that I need to casually dress up,
the shirt tucked in, and a sport coat worn.
All of my sport coats have been properly tailored for
concealed carry (Note: There are plenty of tailors that will
help you out in properly fitting a coat for concealed carry if
you have a carry permit; for example, Men’s Warehouse). I also
prefer my sport coats to be of slightly heavier material to
help prevent “printing.” If you are serious about concealing
your carry, you need to consider your choice of clothing to
not only conceal the carry effectively, but also clothing that
won’t hinder access to the firearm.
Holster:
The Springfield XDM 5.25 in
one of my favorite holsters
– The Black Arch ACE-1 GEN2
– A full Coverage Holster –
Note my added front cant
The last thing is selecting a holster that can not only
conceal the firearm but also protects the firearm. Since I am
talking about “deep concealment” that means a quality IWB
holster. While I have several IWB holsters from different
holster manufacturers, I prefer holsters from Black Arch
Holsters because they not only fit the particular pistol that
I may carry, are adjustable in cant and depth, but they also
protect the most important parts of the pistol – the trigger
and muzzle. Luckily, Black Arch Holsters had the Springfield
XDM 5.25 as an option and one was ordered.
As soon as I unpacked the holster, the cant was adjusted to my
liking – slightly more forward than the standard fifteendegree cant. I could not ask for a better carrying holster, as
the leather backing started molding to my body shape (I intend
to address body shapes in a future article). The length of the
holster was no issue even when sitting and the pistol is held
securely in place against my side.
With that said, I had to do a light “tweaking” to the trigger
guard area of the holster; it was just too tight compared to
my other holster. The impression in the Kydex was just a
little but deeper than that of my other holster and that made
inserting (and drawing) the firearm a bit tighter than I
desired. Some minor heating with a heat gun in the trigger
guard area and using one of the double-stack magazines that
came with the XDM 5.25 helped to raise the trigger area a
small amount and the pistol fit was much better. Hybrid IWB
holster are known for their retention qualities, but sometimes
they can be too retentive.
Regardless of your choice of holster brands, ensure that the
holster is of quality material
Extras:
Packing a large and heavy handgun wears you down – especially
your britches. For that reason, I also wear suspenders, which
helps to support the load of not only the pistol but also
loaded magazines or other “load-out” items like flashlights,
knives, cell-phones, etc.
In short, dress for success and success is not being “outed”
for carrying a concealed firearm.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF COMPETITION PISTOLS FOR PDA
PURPOSES:
A Front-End Look at the
XDM 5.25
It can be argued that carrying a pistol intended for
competition may not be the wisest thing in the world to do
because these pistols are for, well, competition and not for
self-defense. Let’s discuss that for a bit, since the
Springfield XDM 5.25 has been classified (by the manufacturer)
as a “competition” pistol.
First of all, before I start this presentation, I’ll state up
front that I am not an attorney, nor played one in any form or
fashion, and I would not dispense legal information. With that
said, please allow me to continue.
If I am forced into using my PDA in a violent encounter, not
only will the legality (justification) of such use of force
will be questioned, the tool that I used in that violent
encounter will also come under scrutiny. There are two words
that come to mind; court and defensible. Now, I am not going
to go into detail on how I would defend the use of the
Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model lest this article be
read and someone misconstrue my words. Hopefully, I will never
have to use this pistol for self-defense – or any firearm for
that matter.
The disadvantage of using this pistol for the purpose of selfdefense is the stated intent of the firearm by the
manufacturer; “The XD(M)® 5.25″ Competition Series is the
right pistol for those who are ready to step up their game
with a pistol built specifically for competition.” If I can
articulate that the features of the Springfield XDM 5.25
actually makes it a better firearm to use for personal
defense, than say a firearm that has a highly-modified trigger
or sights, my argument may stand. Everything about the
Springfield XDM 5.25 leans to a more accurate, safe, and
controllable pistol than most. There is nothing about the
Springfield XDM 5.25 that says “custom” such as with a “race
gun” or a modified pistol. The projectile coming out the
barrel is no more “lethal” than a bullet that comes out of the
barrel of any other pistol in the same caliber.
I can’t second guess a jury or a prosecuting attorney, but I
can tell you this. A violent encounter with an armed assailant
is a life and death competition, and there is no guarantee
that I will prevail in that encounter regardless of the
firearm that I choose to use for self-defense – competition
model or not. Self-defense is not a game where advantage
points are awarded; “Well, Scott! The figures show that the
defender had a 5-point advantage over the aggressor! His
pistol had a longer match-grade barrel, a match-grade trigger,
a longer sight radius, was of a major caliber and shot more
and better bullets!”
The term “court defensible” does not mean justifying a death,
it means justifying your life, and I will leave this topic at
that.
HOW IT CARRIES:
The
XDM
5.25
Carries
Surprisingly Well – and is
Comfortable Standing and
Sitting
As I had mentioned in a separate article, most gun-writers
will not expound on how well a firearm carries on the person,
primarily because there reviews concern the firearm itself and
even those reviews can be vague and leaving you wanting more.
Since I have actually carried the Springfield XDM 5.25
Competition Model in .45ACP, I can actually pass on some
information as to how the pistol carries.
Whether standing, sitting, bending over, and short of standing
on my head or being shaken upside down by a NFL line-backer, I
can say that the Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model
carries surprisingly well. This of course, is dependent upon
the holster that houses the XDM 5.25 Competition Model and how
well it is adjusted for concealed carry.
With the proper cant, the Springfield XDM 5.25 rides very well
when sitting and is very comfortable. Operating a vehicle that
has wrap-a-round bucket seats may find one trying to adjust
the holster so the butt of the pistol is not being forced into
the seat. You may also find that the holster backing is too
long for your liking. With the proper holster; however, cant
and ride height can be adjusted to your liking, but may be a
trade-off between how the holster carries when seated and when
standing. Some folks like a high-ride and some-folks prefer a
low ride and sometimes there has to be a trade-off between the
two.
On a side note, the range and gun club that I frequent had a
Customer Appreciation Day recently. I carried in my usual
manner as did some other folks. One of the patrons, who CCs a
Glock G17, was seated in one of those metal folding chairs
while enjoying some of the free barbecue. When he arose from
the chair, the entire chair came up with him due to the fact
that the butt of the pistol had hooked the chair as he was
rising from the sitting position. We all got a good laugh
about it, as did the patron. It is just one of those things
that happen.
I have covered considerations for carry previously and there
is no need to go into that again. If you are not used to
carrying a firearm with a long barrel, the feel of the carry
will take some time to get used to. For one who has carried a
full-size “Government” model 1911 for quite a few years, the
only thing that I had to become accustomed to with this pistol
was the additional width, and I am not quite there yet, but I
am close to considering the “Government” model 1911 as a
“compact” pistol compared to the Springfield XDM 5.25
Competition Model.
Now, I am not going to sit and say that the Springfield XDM
5.25 in .45ACP is a delightful carry piece; that would be
highly foolish of me. The XDM 5.25 is big and heavy and you
just might prefer to carry something of lesser largeness and
weight. My point here is that in the right holster, the
Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model carries comfortably and
it is nice to know that I have a few additional cartridges to
work with if need be. There are those that would consider
carrying the Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model as
extreme. But, then again, sometime extreme duty takes extreme
measures and tools. The Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model
fits right into that, I think.
Aside from the fact that the Springfield XDM 5.25 in .45ACP is
wide and heavy, it is also long. That may turn some off who
are used to carrying a much more petite pistol. If you are
used to pulling your 3-inch “snubby buddy” from the holster,
pulling the XDM 5.25 from the holster just might wear you out
to the point that you need to sit down from the exertion of it
all. With some practice of pulling the XDM 5.25 from the
holster, you will be surprised at just how fast the pistol can
be deployed into action.
When I took the XDM 5.25 to the range for the first time it
was concealed in my usual fashion. One of my shooting buddies
asked me what I was shooting that day. He knew that I had been
carrying the XDM 4.5 and was expecting that I would be
carrying the same. I said, “Let me whip this thing out!” as I
started pulling the XDM 5.25 from the concealed holster. All
he could say was, “You gotta be kidding!” I am hoping that a
bad guy will say the same thing and stand frozen with shock
and awe as the XDM 5.25 is pulled in my own defense.
While the fiber-optic front sight is excellent, I will
probably swap it out for a night sight. My idea of competition
is a little different than shooting at a target for points.
Luckily, the rear sight can be adjusted for any change (within
reason) in front sight height.
IN CLOSING:
XDM 4.5 (Front) and XDM 5.25
(Rear). Either Will Work for
Concealed Carry
The Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model is a fine example
of Springfield quality and dedication to serving the firearms
community. Springfield products have been long accepted in the
civilian market as they have been in law-enforcement,
security, and by the military.
The Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model should fulfill your
needs for an out-of-the-box pistol that can be used for
competition, range duty, home defense, and also personal
defense. In short, the Springfield XDM 5.25 Competition Model
is a pistol that is “large and in charge.”
By day, the XDM 5.25 is carried concealed and now serves as my
PDA. At night, it is slipped from the holster and placed in
the night-table ready to take on the role of home defender.
DON’T TAKE JUST MY WORD FOR IT:
Here is a small sampling of other reviews for the Springfield
XDM 5.25 in .45ACP:
XDM
5.25
(Hickok45):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l43lVF5uJJ8
Springfield XDm 5.25 in 45 acp ( Chapter 2 ):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5obsWUGVFFM
Springfield
XDm
5.25
in
45
ACP
Close-up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rOq2cV2PCU
Glock
41
vs
XDm
5
25:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqVZYm5dkZ4
Springfield Armory’s XDm 5.25 Competition Series Pistol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXCneVVi7Go
RESOURCES:
Springfield
Armory
XDM
5.25
.45ACP
Competition
Model:
http://www.springfield-armory.com/products/xdm-competition-ser
ies-45-acp/
The Buck 110 Folding Hunter
On April 18, 1963, just two years after their incorporation,
the Buck board of directors voted to authorize development of
a new folding utility and hunting knife. The new design
featured a sturdy locking mechanism and a substantial clip
point blade suitable for butchering and skinning large game.
This would become the world-famous Buck Model 110 Folding
Hunter.
The Buck Model 110 has a 3 3⁄4–inch blade, a high-tension
lock and a low-pressure release, the handles are typically
wood and the bolsters are made of heavy-gauge brass.
Introduced in 1964, the Buck Folding Hunter was one of the
first lock-back folding knives considered strong enough to do
the work of a fixed-blade knife. Its debut revolutionized
hunting knives, rapidly becoming one of the most popular
knives ever made, with some 15 million Model 110 knives
produced since 1964. Before 1981, the specially heat-treated
stainless steel used was 440C, from 1981 to 1992 it was 425M,
and after 1993 Buck has used 420HC stainless steel. Its
design is one of the most imitated knife patterns in the
world.
– Courtesy of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck_Knives
The Buck 110 Folding Hunter has been carried in sheaths,
pockets, tool boxes, and hunting and tackle boxes for many
years by many people. Even today, with the plethora of
“tactical” and “open-assist” folding knives on the market, the
Buck 110 Folding Hunter still remains a favorite of a lot of
people – including me.
I carried a Buck 110 Folding Hunter in a leather pouch before
and during my “biker” days, as it was the most commonly
expected knife to carry. When woods-walking or camping, the
Buck 110 Folding Hunter was always there with my Air Force
Survival Knife.
As a one-time cutlery shop owner, operator, and sharpener of
edged devices I can attest to the quality of steel used in
Buck knives and also the knife’s shortcomings. The sharpened
edge was long lasting as were the knives – unless you used
them to pry. The blade, while excellent for cutting, was
simply too brittle for prying and I saw my share of broken
blades (usually at the tip). In some cases, I could reform the
blade and the knife would continue on to serve its owner. In
some cases, the blade was beyond redemption and the break was
too far back on the blade. However, I would do trade-ins for
my customers who wanted a new knife. I would accept a trade of
a broken Buck 110 for a new knife of the customers choosing
and would reduce the cost of the new knife to an agreeable sum
of money. The Buck 110 was then sent back to the factory for
reconditioning. They always came back like they were brand
new, as Buck has an excellent warranty, but use and abuse is
not covered and it would cost me a nominal amount of money to
have the knife restored to its original condition. I would say
that it was worth the effort, though. I sold quite a few
“reconditioned” Buck 110 knives at a better than reasonable
cost.
Somewhere along the line, my Buck 110 was lost and never
replaced for some reason. The cutlery shop was closed, the
“biker” days were over, and my attention went elsewhere. A
Buck Model 112, with its three inch blade and finger grooves,
and which was better suited for carry in the pocket, replaced
the Buck 110 for many years until the 112 was lost. I opted
for a different brand of knife with a pocket-clip and have
gone through many of them over the years. The Gerber “FAST”
knife is one that I carry today.
I was watching the series
“Longmire” and in one scene he
pulled out his “working” knife,
which I realized very quickly
was a Buck 110 Folding Hunter.
Pangs of want soon followed. It
was one of those, “If I run
across one for a good price,
I’ll get it” moments, however. Recently, I was in a local
sporting goods store and I came upon a Buck 110 Folding Hunter
for a very good price as I was perusing other knives in the
display. For the price showed, the Buck 110 Folding Hunter
came home with me. Now, I have other knives; some I kept when
I closed the cutlery shop down and others have been purchased
since that time, but I felt as if I had brought an old friend
home with me with the Buck 110 Folding Hunter.
The locking/unlocking mechanism can be extremely stiff when
the knife is new. I remember spending a lot of time with the
one that I previously owned getting the blade to “flip out”
and lock at a certain point. I am not so willing to spend that
time these days and I carry another knife that allows me
deploy the blade quickly if need be. I also carry a fixedblade knife and there is no “blade-flipping” at all.
When new, the blades of most knives sold these days are sharp,
but they are not truly sharp. A few swipes of the blade on a
good stone made the edge of the Buck 110 Folding Hunter’s
420HC steel edge “truly” sharp.
After modifying a Remora double
accessory
case
(http://guntoters.com/blog/2015/
08/09/remora-dual-accessoryholder-iwb-modification/)
for
carrying spare magazines, I had
ordered a second for the same
modification but had not put it
to use. With the Buck 110
Folding hunter; however, that
condition soon changed. Now, the
Buck 110 Folding Hunter resides in one pouch while one of my
favorite flashlights resides in the other pouch. The second
“FrankenMora” is now carried IWB on my offside with its
contents (the Buck 110 and flashlight) while the first
“FrankenMora” is carried strong-side with two spare magazines
for my EDC.
Folding knives have been around for a long time. American-made
folding knives are highly desirable and a few companies still
remain in existence. Although the Buck 110 Folding Hunter is
made in the U.S.A., the pouch is made in Mexico. I place my
Buck 110 Folding Hunter in another U.S.A. made product – the
Remora double accessory pouch, but I leave carry preferences
totally up to you.
The Buck Forever Warranty is very strong, and it has
limitations, but Buck is always conscious of its customers.
We warranty each and every Buck knife to be free of defects
in material and workmanship for the life of the knife, and we
will repair or replace with a new Buck knife, at our option,
any Buck knife that is defective. Buck Knives does not
warrant its products against normal wear, misuse, or product
modifications. Buck Knives are not intended to be used as
hammers, chisels, pry bars or screwdrivers. If your knife was
damaged due to misuse, our repair department can analyze the
damage and repair it for a reasonable fee. If your knife is
unable to be repaired, we will extend a one- time courtesy
offer, allowing you the option to purchase a new knife for
50% off of our MSRP price listed on the website, excluding
any custom knives or web specials.
As far as I am concerned, it just feels good to have an old
friend on his side – literally.
Aside from the Buck 110 Folding Hunter, Buck also has a wide
variety of products. A Buck 118 Personal Knife still resides
in the knife collection and is one of my favorite knives.
After being in the cutlery business, sharpening knives (and a
few swords), and making some of my own knives, I am a little
picky about what knives I will own. Buck knives are part of
the American tradition and ownership of quality knives for the
everyday working man, the hunter, the tactical type, and the
survivalist.
Whether you are a traditionalist or not, perhaps you should
get acquainted, or re-acquainted with the Buck line of
products.
Bianchi 111 Cyclone Holster
for Ruger GP100 4In Rev
It took me along time to decide if this was the holster for my
GP 141 S/S revolver, but patience produced a perfect fit for
the Ruger GP100 4-inch series revolver.
The holster is a rock-solid example of Bianchi quality. It is
heavily stitched throughout and the dye is uniformly applied.
When you first slide the gun into the holster, press down on
the gun just a tad and you will feel the cylinder fall right
into its detent in the holster. It will take very little
effort to roll the hammer strap into position for snapping
into the robust thumb snap, which is mounted in a substantial
piece of holster real estate. One feature that a thumb-break
holster must have (for me) is a rigid thumb snap and the
Bianchi 111 Cyclone excels in that area.
The holster exhibits two pathways for strapping this holster
onto your belt; strong side through the obvious belt loops and
weak-side, cross-draw through a slot that is separate from the
two primary slots. The cross-draw position is nearly perfect
for sitting and rides butt-forward for easy retrieval of the
revolver. I prefer the cross-draw position, because I shoot
long guns on my left side although I am right handed; the
cross-draw position provides a smooth transition from rifle to
handgun without my having to change shooting positions. My
right hand (strong side) simply falls down from the forearm of
the rifle to the butt of the handgun. It can’t get any simpler
than that.
Some complain about an open-bottom holster but I have no
problem with them. The front sight is well protected, although
there is no rear sight protection. I believe the 5BHL has a
sight flap but the trigger is exposed. You would have to hit
the rear sight directly to damage it in this holster.
One thing that I demand in an OWB holster is trigger
protection and the Bianchi 111 Cyclone holster does that very
well; the trigger finger simply slides over the leather and is
pushed out of the way of the trigger – as it should be.
The holster is fashioned in a way to present the lowest
profile possible with this style of holster. Only a pancake
holster style could do it better. With a little ingenuity, I
could make this holster a “chesty” rig, if need be.
If you are looking for an excellent holster to house that 4″
GP100 series handgun, this would do it for you. I will attest
to its fit with the GP100/GP141 revolver and it should do well
with the S&W 586/686 or other 4” K/L (medium) revolver frame.
RESOURCES:
Bianchi 111 Cyclone Holster Fits Ruger Gp100 4In Rev:
https://www.amazon.com/Bianchi-Cyclone-Holster-Ruger-Gp100/dp/
B0000AVE5B/ref=cm_rdp_product