DIVA-FY My EYES WORKSHOP

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DIVA-FY My EYES WORKSHOP
DIVA-FY My EYES WORKSHOP
Making you divalicious in a wink!
PRO Makeup Artist & Trainer: Chief Diva, Krystal M. Lechner
Book your next DIVAlicious appointment, party, wedding, special occasion with the Chief Diva today!
206.452.5191 [email protected] www.smashingdivas.com Twitter: @ smashingdivas
www.facebook.com/smashingdivas
The DIVA’s Philosophy of Makeup:
Makeup is like painting with watercolor.
Transparent pigment with layers create a certain effect.
“Angelina” Artist: Doris Joa
But, it’s also like sculpture. You decide what you want to
highlight or carve away, to balance an even form on a
face.
Venus de Milo
Note the shadows, highlights, shapes,
“negative” and “positive” space
If you mess up, you can fix it or start over. After all, it’s just makeup!
In the end, it’s about working with LIGHT. Creating highlights and shadows and working with the light you’re being lit
with: sunlight, indoor light, photographer’s light. And it’s about creating an illusion. A character, a new identity,
a transformation. Or expressing your inner being.
Artistry of the makeup artist:
It comes down to 4 things:
The technique
The shapes and sizes of brushes used for a particular application.
The texture of the product.
The care of your skin (your artist’s palette).
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
The BASICS/Fundamentals to Makeup.
THINK Like a Watercolor Painter! You always can go from light to dark, but not from dark to light. You can put a
wash of color on your eyes, but it will always be transparent, and reflective, like the translucency of watercolor paints.
DIVA RULES FOR AMAZING MAKEUP!
RULE 1: Powder always sets a cream. After it’s set, it doesn’t budge, move, or crease..
RULE 2: Less is more. You can always apply more, you can always press harder with your
brush. BUT, you can’t go back after color is applied. Use light pressure, light strokes, and
light amount of product. Layer and add.
RULE 3: Always go from light color to dark color. It’s hard to go from dark to light. This
concept comes from watercolor painting process. Watercolor is translucent in pigment by
nature. You can’t see a light color painted on top of a dark color. Same applies to makeup.
RULE 4: Light color brings attention forward to parts of your face. Dark color detracts, or
sculpts away. In art, this is known as positive and negative space.
EYE MAKEUP CAKE Layers
6) Mascara
5) Eyeliner
4) Eyeshadow Midtones/Shadows
3) Basic Eyeshadow Color
2) Powder
1) Base/Primer
RULE 5: Use products appropriate for your skintype, skintone, and age.
RULE 6: Applying makeup is like layers of a cake. You have your base layer, then the filling/frosting layer, another layer cake, another filling/frosting layer, another cake layer,
and then the frosting top (sparkly highlight shimmery accents).
RULE 7: THINK about what result you want to achieve, before you begin.
RULE 8: No flat makeup! (always use at least 2 colors per part of face....always!)
RULE 9: To cancel out a color on your palette, apply the complimentary color on top of it.
Example: Red zit? Apply green corrector stick.
Dark blue circles? Apply salmon, orange, or peach concealer.
Too much yellow on skin? Apply purple or blue corrector.
RULE 10: ALWAYS USE A BASE OR PRIMER! Life’s much easier with it.
RULE 11: BLEND, BLEND, BLEND
RULE 12: RELAX & HAVE FUN! This is your “ME” time.
THE ORDER of EYE Makeup
1) Apply eyebase with a stiff brush. Blend with a soft fluffy brush.
2) Apply powder to eyebase to set it.
3) Apply a light colored/neutral colored shadow.
4) Apply eye makeup according to style.
5) Apply eyeliner.
6) Coat lashes with mascara.
7) Curl lashes.
8) Apply False lashes.
9) Cleanup any fallout. Voila!
10) Wink at yourself! ;)
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
Basic Eyeshadow Techniques
BRUSH TECHNIQUES:
Sweep....take your brush, dip in eyeshadow, move it from point A to point B on your eye.
The Pat/Stipple....take your brush, dip into eyeshadow....and pat on a certain point. You want to pack the
pigment in.
Basics:
2 color shadow
3 color gradiated shadow
the V!
Pigmentation of eyeshadow, with and without eyebase
ALWAYS USE BASE FIRST.
DIVA PLAY TIME! Let’s Practice the basics:
Need 3-6 colors, within same range of hues:
Browns/Golds, Greens/Golds, Pinks/Golds work great on everyone.
DIVA CHALLENGE: How many looks can you come up with only 3 colors?
Examples
My essential colors are:
Highlight:
Midtone (your main, dominating color. Compliments your eyes.
Determines which shade/contour to use):
Shade/Contour:
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The SMOKY EYE
Where does the “Smoky EYE” come from?
In theory, it comes from the variation of colors in the clouds. Sometimes
clouds are blues, grays, tint of green, and white. At sunset/sunrise, they
vary from pinks, oranges, and dark hues. The colors blend together
softly. Blending means, no sharp/harsh lines.
What makes it “smoke”? Taking a soft fluffy brush, and stroking out the
edge of the color. It blends into the skin or into the next color.
Is smoky eye a certain color combination?
No, it’s a technique. And it varies in technique too. Once you master 1
kind of smokey eye, then you can do it in any color combination you
dream up. (insert photos of variation of smokey eye)
PLAY TIME: Let’s do a quick smokey eye!
3 steps:
a) Highlight
b) Midshade
c) Contour.
A painted “smoky”cloud
Smoky eye in pink.
Lower eyelid smoke and liner.
Mascara, brows, done.
What’s your smoky eye? Chart it here:
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
False Eyelash Practice
ALWAYS USE Dark GLUE (saves time & money). DUOlash
brand works fab!
1) Line your eye.
2) Carefully remove eyelash from box.
3) Put fake eyelash to eyelash, measure length of fake eyelash. If
too long, snip the outer eyelid part of the lash.
4) Put a drop of dark glue on a surface (back of your hand, top
of a lid, something solid).
5) Lightly dip eyelash band in glue. Put more glue on each end of
the band.
6) Hold 2 ends of eyelash and curl the eyelash.
7) Open your mouth, dip your head up, look at yourself in the mirror, and place center of eyelash on center of lid. Get eyelash as
close to lash line as possible. Place ends of eyelash.
8) Let dry for 2 minutes.
9) Curl lashes with eyelash curler.
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
TECHNIQUE TIPS
EYE PREP:
ALWAYS, always, always, apply eye base, or concealer onto the lid first. Then apply
a powder to set it.
If you’re in a pinch for time, use foundation on your eyes as an eye base.
It’s primer for your eyes.
You wouldn’t paint the wall in your house without primer. Why would you paint your
eyes point blank?
Eyebase grabs the shadow colors, holds it, makes it creaseless, and POPs the color.
You need something for the shadow to stick to and stay for hours.
DOING Heavy, dark colored eye makeup? A dramatic smokey eye?
DO your eyes first before your foundation, not last.
Put big streak of concealer or white translucent powder below your eyes... catching
the loose eyeshadow falling off as you apply eye makeup. This is known as “fallout”.
After you’re done applying eye makeup, take a Q tip, dip it in concealer, and roll/
sweep onto the dots of dark eyeshadow, to clean off. OR, sweep off excess fallout
on the translucent powder, with a small fluffy brush.
Mascara:
It’s all about the wand, 80% of the time. 20% its the product. Sometimes
it’s about combining 2 different mascaras to achieve a different look. Or it’s
about the false eyelashes. Don’t fall for marketing. Pick a wand for the result
you want to achieve.
RULE 1: Never pump the wand. This pumps air into the container and dries
out your mascara..
Application of Mascara
1)Twist the wand, pull out, wipe off the end on a tissue.
2) Grab root of lash and wiggle it up.
3) For volume, hold the wand horizontally.
For length, hold the wand vertically, and coat the lashes piece by piece.
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
PRO Secret TIPS
Make your eyes POP with lining the waterline (with white pencil or nude/beige pencil).
Make your eyes pop with blush on your cheeks!
Using the right color of blush, the opposite color on the color wheel to your eye color, will also make them
pop. Do minimal day makeup on the eyes and go for the blush!
Look younger & refreshed: place light shimmery shadow on the inner corners of the eyes. It catches the light
and takes attention away from your tired eyes.
Need a new lipstick color? Mix eyeshadow with your lipgloss. Or powdered blush.
In a pinch for time tips:
No brow kit on you? Have a #2 pencil or brown eyeshadow? Fill in eyebrows with a pencil and groom with a
toothbrush. Set with clear mascara, eyebrow gel, or chapstick/lip balm.
Small fluffy brush + loose eyeshadow = 1 quick beautiful, flawless wash of color.
Ever find that by mid day your eyeshadow has faded or worn off?
To help make eye shadow last through the day try this simple trick Dip your eye shadow brush into a drop of saline contact solution. Because salt retains water, the salt (sodium
chloride) in the contact solution will make your eyeshadow extra moist and give the pigment longer lasting
wear.
EYEBROWS
How to fill in brows:
Dip angled brush into powder. Use a light powder & a dark powder. Vary the light and dark in each brow, to
make it look more natural.
Mimic hairs with short strokes and an angled brush.
Solution for hooked brow
Solution for thin brow
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
Advanced Eyes
How to draw difficult shapes on the eye:
(taught in the Advanced Eyes Workshop)
The Cut Crease
For a straight, angled line, use Nexcare
Medical tape for skin, or Scotch tape.
Draw A, B, C, points with a dot of eyeliner.
Connect the dots.
The Kohl Rimmed Eye
The Contoured/Audrey Hepburn Cateye
The Extension
The Avant Garde, High Fashion, Crazy Eye
The Doe Eye
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
DIVA Approved Products, OOOO lala!
Eye Makeup Brushes:
www.ecotools.com
For perfect lines for eyeliner, and outlining lips:
Ecotools Angled Brush Liner. $5 @ Fred Meyer
Eyeshadows:
Yaby Cosmetics
Eyeshadows for $3! This is a pro line as well.
http://bit.ly/yabyes
NYX Nude on Natural Kit
NYX Cosmetics (Buy at ULTA or Bartell’s.)
http://bit.ly/nyxsets
The Eye Kits: Nude on Natural Kit, Smokey Kit, Purple Smokey Kit
for $12, you can complete a full eye look. Compact enough to carry with you anywhere.
For Blush:
La Femme Blushes
http://www.makeupmania.com/brands/La-Femme-Cosmetics.html
Highly pigmented for only $2.50 a color! Rave reviews from PRO artists and clients alike.
For Lashes:
Peter Lamas Lash Masque:
http://www.peterlamas.com/sk_lash_masque.php
For Lips:
Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar
http://www.occmakeup.com/lips.html
Goes on like a gloss, dries as like a lipstick. Gluten & Paraben Free, Vegan as well.
Physicians Formula Plump Potion™ Needle-Free Lip Plumping Cocktail
For $9, it works! In clear color, you can apply to any pigment.
http://bit.ly/lipplumper
For foundation:
Royal & Langnickel Makeup Artist Brush: Silk Line Super Foundation Brush. BC142
http://bit.ly/rlsilkface
Fake Eyelashes
Ardell http://www.ardelllashes.com/
#105, #109, #135, Wispies, and Individual lashes...Staples in the DIVA’s kit. Buy at Fred Meyer,
Target, any drugstore, and Sally’s Beauty Supply.
Makeup Forever: Higher quality, more creativity that packs a punch!
http://www.makeupforever.com/products/eyes.html?limit=all
PRO Store: www.camerareadycosmetics.com
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
bamboo PANTONE 14-0740
emberglow PANTONE 17-1547
www.pantone.com/fall2011
FEBRUARY 10 – 17, 2011
PANTONE fashion color report
|
What’s your favorite color?
Take our color survey.
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
www.smashingdivas.com | 206.452.5191 | [email protected]
honeysuckle PANTONE 18-2120
phlox PANTONE 19-2820
cedar PANTONE 16-0526
deep teal PANTONE 19-4914
coffee liqueúr PANTONE 18-0930
nougat PANTONE 16-1320
orchid hush PANTONE 13-3805
quarry PANTONE 15-4305
HEY DIVA!
Being a diva is about being powerful. Fearless. Full of life.
Your best, beautiful you!
Smashing Divas Makeup Artistry Studio is passionate about celebrating all divas, through makeup.
We’re true artists at heart. We collaborate, we design faces, we support the end result. We’re
committed to making your day the best day possible. And making the shoot a success!
Ready to be DIVA-FIED?
Smashing DIVAS will glam you up with glow & style.
Dying to try a boudoir photoshoot? We bring out your hot diva!
Needing to impress your hot date? Glam makeup session for fab night out.
Getting married? We’ll celebrate you with beautiful, classic glow.
Wish you could pack us in a suitcase and take us with you? We travel.
Needing new headshots for your career or blog? We’re pros who work with the
best in the fashion/photography community.
Lost a lot of weight? Getting new clothes for you? Let us celebrate you with a
photoshoot + a stylist to help you look your best!
Launching a video series for Youtube audience? We can make that happen.
Speaking at a big event? We’ll make you look professional, in a wink ;)
Ready to be DIVAlicious? Book us today with these options:
www.smashingdivas.com
Krystal M. Lechner
206.452.5191
Chief Diva & Makeup Artist [email protected]
twitter @smashingdivas | FB: http://on.fb.me/smashingdivas

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