freja sundberg

FREJA SUNDBERG
[email protected]
BA Fashion Design 2011.3.12
Swedish School of Textiles
University College of Borås
“Regnet
sjunker
in
i
de
gamla väggarna, och sedan
vidgar
värmen
sprickorna,
som med tiden äter upp husen. Vattnet tränger in i
de
http://www.trekearth.com/
plana
takens
sprickor
och luckrar upp takbjälkarna. De gamla rören sprängs
i väggarna. Invånarna bygger på och belastar pelarna
med nya golv och väggar.
Allt verkar vara på väg mot
sammanbrott.”
Rising 2001, p. 63
Contents :
a country, a story _
_ 1
abstract _
_ 2
homage _
_ 3
backstreet of Havana Vieja _
method _
_ 9
the mood _
color palette/fabrics _
_ 10
_ 11
flat sketching development _
_ 12
draping development _
_ 15
projeting development _
_ 16
prints
_
knitting the old _
final result _
usage _
contemplation _
references _
_ 4
_ 17
_ 19
_ 20
_ 30
_ 31
_ 32
a country, a story :
Most people tend to find themselves completely
absorbed by Cuba and especially the city of Havana. The reason might be its unique atmosphere
possibly created by a tragic history as a colonized, slave-based country, the romanticized
revolution in 1959 and repeated trade embargos.
Cuba is a country of conflict and arouses strong
opinions amongst people. Today it is ruled by
the Fidel Castro regime and the opponents are
closely guarded and sometimes arrested on political bases. To become rich or carve out a career
for oneself is against the law. Despite all this
the social rights on Cuba are better than in
most democracies and all residents have access
to free medical treatment and education. There
are also few people living on the streets due to
the generous housing system, all thanks to the
revolution led by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara
in 1959 (Gustafsson 2006).
The effects of the trading embargos are very
obvious when visiting Cuba, products we consider necessities does not exist, are hard to
find or even forbidden. All the cars seen on the
streets were manufactured in the late 1950´s
and are still running on the same old batteries.
The people of Cuba have become experts in reconstructing and repairing because they have no
other choice.
Many are those who believe that the city of Havana we visit today may not last for long. The
current Fidel Castro regime soon have to switch
and the gates to the rest of the world will then
be opened. Will the communistic, revolutionary ideas survive into the new century or will
the system change? Cuba is facing changes and
it will be interesting to see what the future
brings in mind.
1
abstract :
This work started with a journey to Cuba
in 2008 and is homage to the city of Havana and its working-class residents. The
collection is a collage of an image of an
interior in an old, abandoned castle and
a mosaic tile from a street in Havana.
Materials are carefully sourced to represent the history and present of the city
but also to give suggestions for the future. Worn and torn furniture materials
have been used in contrast to more new and
shiny. Since the Habaneros are experts in
creating out of the existing most part of
the collecion is either reconstructed,
repaired or reproductions of the old.
The result is a collection containing
historical insinuations as well as ideas
for the future. The garments are both
showpieces as well as more wearable.
2
homage :
special honour or respect shown publicly
Origin: Middle English: Old French, from
Latin homo, homin-man (the original use of
the word denoted th ceremony by which a
vassal declared himself to be his lord´s
man)
http://oxforddictionaries.com/
3
back street of Havanna Vieja :
The work is homage to the city of Havana and the
memories from my journey to Cuba in 2008. Trying to find points of focus and direction was
hard when there was so much visual, written and
personal information to choose from. It was important that the work did not end up as a naive
cliché of Cuba; the country of Che Guevara, rum,
salsa and cigars.
The collection is a collage of a photo of a room
in Casa dela senora Faxxas in the area of Miramar and a mosaic tile from the street of De
La Rampa in the center of Havana. The photo of
the room captures the contrasts of Cuba and Havana, the total material decay with features of
the new and modern. It is a collage of the history and present curious awaiting the future.
Will the room (or Cuba?) be renovated, preserved
or restored? What is considered holy and of so
much value that it needs to be kept? What will
be thrown aside, what will be moderated and
what news will be brought in? The photo of the
room also portraits the will of creating something beautiful out of the existing and used,
the ability the Cuban people possess concerning
reconstructing and repairing.
...layers of paint poetically peeling of the walls...
Photo: Anders Rising
4
. . .
Observe the room; a total decay but still the
floors are kept clean and shiny, a new plastic
buckle has been brought in and a chair is placed
(thus broken) next to the wall for comfort...
It is the matter of making the most out of the
situation, a charming attempt to allure the
beauty out of the waste and work with what’s at
your hands.
I find the structure of the worn and torn areas
in contrast to the bright and shiny very interesting and will further investigate the matter
of contrasts and creating out of the existing.
Personal thoughts about the past, present and
future of Cuba will be translated through prints
and materials.
I want to create on the same terms as the citizens of Havana i.e. reconstructing, repairing
and make reproductions of the existing but also
be able to add new inputs to give suggestions
for the future. Consideration will be taken to
what is considered important or holy and needs
to be kept within the work.
Important and holy?
Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre,
(The Lady of Charity, Cuba)
http://www.nosotrosloscubanos.com/
5
. . .
Cuba has a rough history as a colonised and tyrannized country. The import of african slaves
in the 16th century have contributed enormously
to the development of Cuba. During a period 50%
of the cuban residents consisted out of african slaves. Today the country is multicultural
but the strong african influences are still very
obvious. They are most apparent within music,
dance, art and religion which are all strong
identities of Cuba (Gustafsson 2006).
Manuel Mendive is one example of a well known
cuban artist who brings his african religion
(yoruba) into art by bodypainting. This is an
interesting way of communicating religion and
tradition and will be used in the work to mark
religious heritage.
Important and holy?
Bodypaint: Manuel Mendive
Photo: Anders Rising
Son is a style of popular dance music that
originated in the Oriente province of Cuba. It
is said to be the foundation of modern salsa
(http://www.mamborama.com/). Salsa music will be
incorporated in the work when showing the collection in a more modern version.
6
. . .
Design: Cundo Bermudéz
Photo: Anders Rising
I interpret the mosaic tile by the Cuban artist Cundo Bermudés as a symbol of communism and
the important influence of the Soviet Union in
Cuba (a history I do not find necessary to explain). To me the shapes in the tile represent a
very controlled system (sharp and exact angles),
restricting (by clear outlines) but also safe
(in the way it reminds me of the folksy concrete
housing projects in the Eastern bloc during communistic eras) and guaranteeing (work, education
and healthcare for everyone). But it does not
give much to the creativity or imaginary, its
rules are clear and set, planned and fair for
all.
Mosaic tiled floors are also a very common architectural sight on Cuba and an important identity
to the Cuban people that they are proud of. Many
times the mosaic-tiled floors are the most beautiful and intact material to be found in public
or private spheres. I would guess that the trend
spring from the time as a colonized country and
might have been brought from Europe by the Spanish colonizers.
I was intrigued by the modern expression of the
mosaic tile and its shapes. I do see possibilities with working from the shapes to find interesting silhouettes and patterns. These two images are really each-others opposites but relate
to each other through the history of Cuba. What
the colonization brought in was developed and
represented in both the mosaic tile as well as
the room and the room (Cuba) finally became a
product shaped by the Soviet Union and communism
and has not yet recovered fully.
7
. . .
Evidently, the works is also homage to the working-class people of Cuba and speak of their history, present and future in need of modernization. To make this more clear objects associated
with the working-class have been brought in and
re-worked such as the apron and suspenders which
both have routs in the history of Cuba.
...Note the mosaic-tiled floor...
Photos: Anders Rising
8
method :
My starting point into new projects is always a very
deep research. I often find myself in the library hidden
under stacks of books or in some old archive searching for points of interest whilst blowing dust from
old forgotten items. By now I realize that my unconscious is very interested in history and the people
living then, almost all my projects can be related back
in time. I am also very fond of old items, they do not
need to be antique but for me they carry a history and
I also like the thought of re-using materials and give
them a second life. This is not just a environmental
statement, I also believe in giving the previous owner
a “new life, for me old items have a soul.
I researched all possible interesting fields such as
Cuban artists, typical Cuban art, music, literature,
social system, politics and economy. Reading about
Cuba’s dramatic and complicated history as a colonized
and slave-based country and one of the worlds most famous revolution in 1959 I was afraid that I had gotten myself into something far too complex to handle.
There was a prominent risk I could make a complete fool
out of myself by not having enough knowledge to handle
the amounts of opinions that Cuba could rise. Nightmare scenario would be a naiv interpretation that would
actually upset a person with connections to Cuba. The
knowledge I have gained through reading the history of
Cuba is far too wide to write about in this report unfortunately.
A lot of questions evoked during the seminars concerning my focus points? What did I want to tell people
about Cuba? In the beginning I had so much information
I wanted to work with but no connecting thought. For me
the most interesting point was what Havana would look
like ten years from now? What would happen when Fidel
Castro leaves his position? I wondered about the opinions of the people of Havana, did they like the socialist system? What did they desire and miss? I was also
curious of what had a symbolic meaning for them? Were
there symbols to be found in the history of Cuba that I
could work with to make the portrait respectful?
9
the mood :
10
color palette/fabrics :
11
flat sketching development :
12
. . .
13
. . .
14
draping development :
15
projecting development :
16
prints :
A very typical motif seen on Cuba are the peeling of paint, plaster and concrete from the facades of the bulidings. I knew early in the process that I wanted to use this in a print. From
the beginning I considered printing it by hand
but realized that the clear and sharp impression
probably would look best if I used a digital
printer. I wanted the contrast of a very sheer
and light fabric (silk) together with the heavy,
peeling wall motif.
Using the Havanna-based swedish photographer Anders Rising a lot as a reference for my work I
decided to contact him and ask for permisssion
to use his photos. It went well and he helped me
out with taking a lot of photos for me to work
with.
Original photos by Anders Risingbefore rmaking the print report
Digital printed silk being
treated after printing process
Report ready for digital pigment print on silk
17
. . .
The other print I decided to do was the photo of
the mosaic tile by Cundo Bermudez mentioned in
the chapter back street of Havanna Vieja. Since
I had projected this image onto a dressed mannequin I needed huge, digital printed reports of
the motif to get the same effect in reality. By
making toiles of the garments that I was interested in making I could count on the size I
needed to print (area in red in projected photo
below).
Original photo Anders Rising
Report ready for digital print
For this print I chose a cotton
tricot material in bright white.
I wanted the tricot to give the
work impression of streetwear
as a touch to the work as an
element of modernity.
Digital printed tricot
18
knitting the old :
Report of embroidery ready
for flatknit
original fabric hand embroidered with crossstitches
Flatknitting the final fabric
Final fabric in three different ways:
on top copy of original, middle in
blue colourway and 150% scale and bottom same colourway as original but
200% scale.
19
final result :
The color palette, materials and mood of the collection are a collage inspired by the photo of the room
in Casa de la Senora Faxxas in Miramar. Materials have
been carefully considered to represent areas of interest from the interior of the room. Contrasts in both
color and structure have been highlighted in the work.
The outlined shapes in the mosaic tile motif are communicated in the patternmaking as well as in the more obvious digital prints. The peeling of the walls is represented in a digital printed silk fabric, chosen to be
a contrast to itself, an expected hard surface versus a
soft material.
Patchwork technique is used in leather garments and
symbolizes the Cuban people’s ability to reconstruct
and repair. No further notice has been taken to eventual spots or uneven areas; they are considered part of
the Cuban environment and history. The suspender devices are hybrids of aprons and suspenders and are clear
symbols of the working-class people. In some cases the
function of the suspenders is used to lift garments
which fabrics are considered so valuable (the value of
heritage) that they cannot be cut through. The wooden
clog is a personal idea based upon reflections of our
Swedish working-class heritage, thus moderated. All
hand made materials are contributing to the workingclass history of Cuba but are also personal heirlooms
with a Swedish cultural heritage. There are also religious references to be found in the work as well as
references to the Cuban revolution in 1959 (the leather
weapon holster in the digital printed silk dress outfit).
There is also a visual reference to pixilation in the
work, generated from the mosaic tile motif and the
cross-stitches in the hand-embroidered outfit. The pixels are in this matter a suggestion for the upcoming
future of Cuba with a possible digitalization and technical revolution. The transparent plastic is another
personal input suggesting modernity. In one outfit it is
a visual reference for the urge of preserving but it is
also a symbol of the need for a more transparent social
system, with possibilities for the people to influence
the politics.
The back views of the outfits have been equaled important to me as the fronts. The back represents the memories and history we carry with us through life but also
throughout history, therefore they are as important as
the front views, if not more?
20
21
22
outfit 1 :
Hand embroidered cardigan/dress with invisible pressstuds at center front in jute cloth (second hand couch
cover). Body-hugging pencil dress in polyester with invisible side zipper and center back vent.
Handembroidered wooden clogs. Chestnuts necklace.
23
outfit 2 :
Long, flat knitted jacquard dress with ribb at neckline,
armholes and hemline. Low cut armholes and elastic band
inserted into hemline to keep its shape.
Suspension device in patch-worked lilac felt with reverse side in second-hand mocha. Adjustable belt-buckle
fastenings to alter the drape.
Wooden clogs in plastic.
24
outfit 3 :
Short sleeve shirt in crinkled linnen with wrap-around
collar that fastens in buttons. Draped viscose pants
with pleats secured at waistband. Detailed leather belt
with buckle fastening at hip (suspener device.
Hand-embroidered wooden clogs. Painted chestnut bracelet.
25
outfit 4 :
Singlet in sun-bleached furniture fabric (second hand)
with padded shoulders and hand made netting with pattern at back. Long skirt in polyester with inserted
handmade lace. Waistband in handmade lace with religious motifs and invisible zipper on side with hook and
eye fastening. Long skirt in plastic with blue zipper
on side.
Clogs in shiny plastic. Leather bracelets.
26
outfit 5 :
Path worked leather dress in four different types of
leather; lamb and cow, second hand and new. Inserted adjustable suspension device with buttonholes and
leather covered buttons.
Wooden clogs.
27
outfit 6 :
Digital printed cotton tricot dress.
Wooden clogs with plastic. Painted chestnut bracelet
and earrings.
28
outfit 7 :
Long digital printed silk dress with train and handmade netting with swan motif pattern at back. Separate
decorative layers of draped fabric at neckline and four
belt buckles evenly spread at bottom. Adjustable leather suspender device.
Wooden clogs.
29
usage :
The first thought, or possibly dream scenario, was to
have a catwalk on a square in Havana to modern salsa
beats. In one of the first seminaries we were asked
to show a garment in movement. A basic dance movie
was made in cooperation with a dance choreographer
in Stockholm. The project was very rewarding and the
thought of creating a more serious dance movie evoke,
it would be the perfect way to present the collection
since dance and rhythm are very strong identities of
the people of Havana.
Plans were made for the event such as possible premises, dancers, filmmaker, photographer and a music
maker. The search for an interesting premise led to
Götiska Tornet in Drottningholms Slottspark in Stockholm, an abandoned and never finished brick tower built
in the 19th century. A problem that arouse was that
the measurements of the dancers did not correspond to
the expected measurements of the models. Garments that
during a range of seminaries developed into tight fitted silhouettes suddenly felt impossible to use unless
they were cleverly adjustable, also thoughts of the use
of typical Swedish wooden clogs restricted movement.
When everything was set (permission to use the premise,
dancers, filmmaker, photographer, film editing company
and music maker) I realized that the project of making
a movie was becoming larger than the collection itself,
I also encountered financial problems that seemed unsolvable. For the time being the project is cancelled
but might take place in the future, all contacts are
saved and positive to a future cooperation. I would
love to see this collection in a dance movie or a dance
show or any other type of scenic event.
Many of the pieces in the collection are wearable
whilst others are not due to long hemlines or complicated suspender solutions that possibly would annoy
the wearer. A few pieces are very vulnerable and hard
to wash due to the age of the materials, which limit
the use. The more wearable garments would be possible
to position in a shop whilst the more unique and worn
would be considered showpieces.
30
contemplation :
One could state that my design process has been divided
into two parts since the first beginning. One part has
been the search for unique, old and torn materials that
corresponds to photo of the room and the idea of reconstructing, repairing and reproducing from the old. The
other part has been desperately trying to find interesting silhouettes and shapes to build the collection
upon.
I have not been aware of this during the design process but I can now see the clear division. The search
for ideas (color, pattern, drape, silhouette, contrasts
etc.) through materials has been much more tempting
than trying to find interesting shapes through purely
drawing and draping from scratch. But to get started
with shape and silhouette I projected the photo of the
mosaic tile (Cundo Bermudez) onto a dressed mannequin.
The thoughts of making a dance movie have been very
appealing throughout the work. To make the idea of a
dance movie possible, I should have been clear in the
sense that the collection was to be presented through
dance, on dancers and not on models on a catwalk. A
very professional movie should then have been projected
on a wall on the day of the show instead of models on
the expected catwalk, another choice could have been to
have a 2,5 min dance show on the catwalk by professional dancers. The garments would then be adjusted to suit
movements and dancers rather than models. More volume
would have been added and the silhouettes would look
very different. Also I would position my work in another context and possibly limit myself to a very specific
fashion business.
I see great possibilities to develop the collection but
I would then choose to start over and pick one design
element to work from. Either the digital printed from
the mosaic tile motif, this alone could be a streetwear-inspired collection. I could also create a collection based on the knitted pattern and another on developing more prints of peeling house facades. Decisions
could be made to focus on dance rather than a traditional catwalk, there are also more ideas concerning
suspender and apron solutions to be developed.
31
References :
Printed sources
Books
Gustafsson, Thomas (2006). Kuba. Carlsson Bokförlag, Stockholm
Rising, Anders (2001). Rummet och själen Havanna.
Wahlström & Widström, Stockholm
Rising, Anders (2003). Habaneros. Wahlström & Widstrand, Stockholm
Electronic sources
http://www.trekearth.com/ 2010-12-22
http://www.andersrising.se/ 2010-01-05
http://oxforddictionaries.com/ 2010-04-28
http://www.nosotrosloscubanos.com/ 2010-01-10
http://www.mamborama.com/ 2010-04-30
Special thanks to Anders Rising
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