Stockholm - Citi® Card Benefits

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Stockholm
P1
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CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
luxecityguides.com
SPANNING 14 ISLANDS OF
THE BEAUTIFUL SWEDISH
ARCHIPELAGO, STOCKHOLM
SURE IS SPANGLED WITH A
GREAT MANY TREASURES...
retail in Södermalm, you’re never far from
the famed Scandinavian design aesthetic
ranging from fashion to furniture and
everything in between. Add a world-class
dining scene and vibrant culture, and
you’re in for a real, if expensive, treat.
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
From her medieval old town to her
wealth of museums, art and nature in
all directions, she is a city with plenty
to offer. Easily walkable and divided into
five main districts, including high-end
shopping in Östermalm and grittier, edgy
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• Stockholm is an expensive city; get
over it, or stay home
• The best time to visit is May-Sep;
July can be quiet when the city goes
on holiday and many of the smaller
shops, bars and cafes close. Winter
daylight is as scarce as hen’s teeth,
so pack some Vitamin D3!
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• More than 90 of the T-bana stations
are decorated by artists – grab the
free ‘Art in the Stockholm Subway’
booklet at stations
• Service is not included; round up to
the nearest krona or two for lunch,
and splash 10-20% for dinner
• Pedestrians have right of way at
crossings – watch for the little green
man at lights, and don’t jaywalk
• The international country code is
+46, all local calls begin with 08
and cell phones with 07. For general
emergencies dial 112
• Currency: Swedish krona (SEK/kr)
• Unisex loos are quite common
across the city
• Lobster open season is Sep-Dec –
get that bib on...
• ARN to town: approx 30-45 mins /
520kr (€60) fixed price by cab;
20 mins / 260kr (€30) by Arlanda
Express one way
• Many shops, services and
restaurants in the center operate
seven days a week, albeit with
limited Sunday hours
• Taxis can be hailed on the street, or
call +46 8 150 000
• Stockholm’s tap water is excellent,
say ‘bye’ to bottled
• The Tunnelbana (T-bana) subway
system is quick and efficient; buy
the Stockholm Card (see Drab vs
Fab) and you get bus, ferry and
admission to 80 museums thrown in
• Alcohol (above 3.5% vol) sales are
limited to restos, bars, and gov’t-run
Systembolaget stores
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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LUXE INSIDER
Per Styregård
FOOD & WINE EDITOR
Ex-editor-in-chief of the Swedish
Gourmet Magazine and co-founder of the
gastronomic debate forum Skafferiet,
Per is now an editor for exclusive
Scandinavian restaurant bible White
Guide, a wine critic at the largest Swedish
business daily newspaper, Dagens
Industri, and a regular gastro-oriented
commentator on TV show Gomorron
Sverige.
Twitter @perstyregard
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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LUXE INSIDER
Per Styregård
WHAT’S THE BEST TIME
OF YEAR TO VISIT
STOCKHOLM?
Late spring to early fall is the most
exciting time to visit, given the
very long days and the pleasant
temperatures. However, if you’re not
afraid of winter, Stockholm is truly
beautiful when covered in snow.
WHERE DO YOU GO TO
RELAX AND UNWIND?
A completely different kind of serenity
can be found in the Stockholm
archipelago during the fall, winter
and spring (the summer is busy out
here). The beauty and silence is
overwhelming. If you want to stay
in the city center, take a stroll over
the small bridge to the beautiful
little island Skeppsholmen where the
Moderna Museet is located.
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A
DATE NIGHT?
To ensure a tantalizing evening with
no embarrassing pauses, plenty of
good quality food and drink, and great
service, I would reserve one of the
increasing numbers of chef’s tables
and kitchen-bar seats across the city,
including Frantzén, Mathias Dahlgren,
Matbaren, Ekstedt, Vassa Eggen or
Djuret, all depending on budget.
WHERE CAN YOU FIND THE
CITY’S THE BEST CUP OF
COFFEE?
For coffee, I’d go to Drop Coffee in
Södermalm – they boast in-depth
knowledge and a good selection of
high quality coffee. But don’t ask for
milk in your coffee. The best tea can
be bought at the In The Mood For
Tea store in the Odenplan plaza, but
if you want to sit down for a cup, try
Chaikhana in the Old Town.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE
LOCAL DELICACY?
No one should leave town without
trying a löjromstoast with delicious
vendace roe from the northern
locality of Kalix, with sour cream and
finely chopped red onion accompanied
by a steaming cold microbrewed beer
and a shot of aquavit.
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P5
ETT HEM
LYDMAR
EKSTEDT
Hotel
Hotel
Dining
With 12 individually-designed rooms,
it’s hard to beat this homey, ultra-chic
townhouse tryster for consummate
Swedish style and comfort. Lounge in
the pretty private garden, rebalance
in the gym and basement hammam,
enjoy the use of a complimentary iPad
and WiFi, and make the most of the
24-hr kitchen turning out freshly-baked
cakes each afternoon as well as daily
seasonal menus.
The perfectly placed epitome of a
relaxed, contemporary style with
friendly service and personality
to boot. The ambient, book-lined
restaurant-lounge serves as a
happening bar and low-lit chill
zone with Chesterfield sofas and a
quirksome drinks list attracting a
laid back, eclectic crowd, while the
terrace is perfect for the long summer
evenings. Great breakfast too.
Eschewing modern techniques and
faffery in favor of traditional Nordic
methods like cooking over open fires,
wood-burning stoves and smoking
through a chimney, Michelin-starred
chef Niklas Ekstedt also sources
heritage ingredients and recipes for a
delicious culinary jaunt down memory
lane. Expect plenty of hay- and
juniper-infused goodies and homecured sausages. Book ahead.
Sköldungagatan 2 / Östermalm
+46 8 20 05 90
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2
Norrmalm / +46 8 22 31 60
Humlegårdsgatan 17 / Stureplan
+46 8 611 12 10
etthem.se
lydmar.com
ekstedt.nu
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
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BAKFICKAN
OAXEN KROG & SLIP
FARANG
Dining
Dining
Dining
Stockholm is blessed with many a
sleek restaurant covering the gamut of
world cuisines, but when you ask city
dwellers for their favorite lunchtime
dish and where to find it, you hear
the name Bakfickan coming up again
and again for their signature Swedish
meatballs. Get there before noon as
there is a no res policy, and the pocketsized, wraparound bar diner is packed
from the moment doors open. Fabulous
big fresh salads too.
Superb seasonal fine dining
destination Oaxen Krog’s relocation to
Stockholm means you no longer have
to voyage 40 minutes out of town for
the divine foraged fare, great wine and
convivial ambience. The restaurant’s
new home on verdant Djurgården
island is adjoined by charming,
informal bistro sibling Oaxen Slip, as
well as floating Prince van Orangiën
boat-hotel with its six private cabins
and 1930s vibe.
Had your fill of reindeer and
meatballs? Spice up your life with a
zingy, refreshing spread of sumptuous
Southeast Asian share plates from
stellar culinary trio Kim Öhman, Tomi
Björck and Matti Wikberg. Located in
an industri-cool downtown formerelectric warehouse, this dim-lit, raw
concrete and dark wood expanse is
always buzzing, so slip into the barlounge early for top drops, cocktails
and Asian brews.
Beckholmsvägen 26 / Djurgården
+46 8 55 15 31 05
Tulegatan 7 / Vasastaden
+46 8 673 74 00
oaxen.com
farang.se
KÅKEN
GONDOLEN
STUREBADET
Bar
Bar
Spa
Saunter into Restaurant Niklas, walk
right through to the back, and you’ll
find this delightful, hidden speakeasy
complete with banquettes, clubby
tracks, hearty snacks and alfresco
terrace plus the city’s best Negroni.
Great fun, and the comfort food menu
is really rather good.
Elevated high above the city, this
gantry bar with its swish, waist-coated
waiters, classic drinks menu and
jaw-dropping views of the city wins
the sunset sip spot vote hands down,
but get there early as it’s fiendishly
popular with the city’s stylistas.
There are spas, and then there’s
Sturebadet. With more than 50 different
services, plus pool, gym and saunas, this
beautifully refurbished Art Nouveau
and Moorish luxury bathhouse and spa
was Ms. Garbo’s favorite, although it’s
unlikely she was ever alone here!
Stadsgården 6 / Södermalm
+46 8 641 70 90
Sturegallerian 36 / Östermalm
+46 8 54 50 15 00
eriks.se
sturebadet.se
Jakobs Torg 12 / Norrmalm
+46 8 676 58 00
operakallaren.se
Restaurant Niklas
Regeringsgatan 66 / Norrmalm
+46 8 20 60 10
kaken.niklas.se
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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HORNSTULL MARKET
SVENSKT TENN
MODERNITY
Shopping
Shopping
Shopping
Once upon a time, Hornstull was the
ugly duckling to SoFo’s flawless swan.
That is until the independent cafes,
bars and boutiques started moving
in and a London-style street market
sprang up, transforming the area from
zero to hero. A great way to while
away a Sunday in search of bargains
and tasty bites.
For nearly 90 years it’s been the first
port of call for the acme of Swedish
interior design. Conceived by stylist
Estrid Estrid Ericsson and designer
Josef Frank, expect bold, exclusive
fabrics, glass and chinaware, most is
not available anywhere else.
If ultra-high quality, vintage
Scandinavian and European C.20th
design is your passion, you just
won the grand slam. With furniture,
lighting, ceramics, and glass – the
beautifully curated selection is always
excellent and inspirational.
Strandvägen 5 / Östermalm
+46 8 670 16 00
Sibyllegatan 6 / Östermalm
+46 8 20 80 25
svenskttenn.se
modernity.se
HALLWYLSKA MUSEET
VASA MUSEET
ABBA THE MUSEUM
Activities
Activities
Activities
Wilhelmina von Hallwyl invested a
fortune on her vast, varied collection
of art and antiques, and kindly built a
palace to house it all. Donated to the
State on the condition it remained
untouched, daily guided tours of this
elegant townhouse museum and
collection also take you to the private
second floor bedrooms.
Absolutely unmissable preserved
warship that tragically sank on her
maiden voyage in 1628. The fabulous
conservation and heart-tugging
personal belongings of the passengers
are fascinating, while the staggeringly
realistic facial reconstructions of
the crew are haunting and moving in
equal measure.
Hamngatan 4 / Norrmalm
+46 8 402 30 99
Galärvarvsvägen 14 / Djurgården
+46 8 51 95 48 00
At last the iconic Swedes are
immortalized in all their whitejumpsuited glory. Take a nostalgic
jaunt back in time via costumes,
gold records, concert footage, and
memorabilia, then take to the stage
with the band courtesy of some clever
tech wizardry and 3D holograms. Book
tickets and timeslots ahead so there’s
no wait, and just dance!
hallwylskamuseet.se
vasamuseet.se
Hornstullsstrand / Hornstull
Sundays May-Sep
hornstullsmarknad.se
Djurgårdsvägen 68 / Djurgården
+46 7 71 75 75 75
abbathemuseum.com
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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P8
SUNDAY OPENING HOURS
VÄSTERLÅNGGATAN
WINTER DAYLIGHT
Make eating, drinking and shopping
rather difficult
Nightmare Old Town tourist street
full of cheap souvenirs
Or rather the lack of it – no wonder the
Swedes long for summer
FAKE TAXIS
KRONA
Expensive and useless, caveat emptor
Has nobody heard of the euro?
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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CULTURE CARD
OLD TOWN
FOOD WISE
Standing in line outside the city’s major
galleries and museums is especially
tedious in freezing winter, but buy the
Stockholm Card and you can swan right
into more than 80 top attractions plus
free travel by public transport, and
there’s even a summer canal and
bike tour. Smart!
Västerlånggatan, a nightmarishly busy
Old Town street full of tacky tourist
souvenirs, can easily put you off, but
persevere and discover the far prettier
and less touristic streets of the medieval
Old Town like Köpmangatan and
Tyska Brinken.
Eating wonderful, seasonal and locally
sourced Swedish food is great, but so
much better when you understand its
provenance, and how better to learn
than to take a tasting tour with Mat
Karavan, where you’ll discover a world of
history, foraging, single-cow cheese, sea
buckthorn and much, much more.
BIKE HIRE
HOME FROM HOME
Sitting in traffic on exquisite (and all too
short) Swedish summer days is simply a
waste of valuable time when you could be
zipping around town on a Bike Sweden
bicycle with the wind in your hair.
Staying in a perfectly pleasant, but
faceless chain hotel room will forever be a
thing of the past once you settle into one
of the 12 ultra-spoiling, exclusive suites at
the private house hotel Ett Hem.
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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Romance
First of all, it’s important to ensure you
are staying at the most romantic hotel
in the city and it doesn’t get better
than the deliriously luxey Ett Hem (see
LUXE Loves). Let’s start with a gentle
stroll across the charming Humlegården
(the perfect spot for a little summery
picnic) and up Humlegårdsgatan to the
Östermalms Saluhall for a fascinating
totter around the city’s finest food hall.
Next, a gentle amble down Nybrogatan
and right into Hamngatan will bring you
to the wonderful Hallwylska Museet (see
LUXE Loves), a beautiful private house
museum stacked with treasures that
transport you back in time to the genteel
C.19th. With so much good food in this
city, you’re absolutely spoilt for choice,
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
but one of our absolute favorites is the
elbow-to-elbow, gloriously old-fashioned
Bakfickan (see LUXE Loves). This nores, marble-countered squeezebox is an
institution for its famed meatballs (the
best in the city), or try one of the vast and
super-fresh seafood salads – but be sure
to arrive before noon or you’ll queue. If
the queue is too long at Bakfickan simply
head back to Östermalms Saluhall and
position yourself on a bar stool at Lisa
Elmqvist for signature ‘skagen’ (delicious
shrimps on toast) and a glass of bubbles.
Once fully refreshed, it’s to the waterfront
at Strandvägen to climb aboard one of
the many archipelago tour boats – spring,
summer or autumn, the glittering azulean
sea and sylvan islands are a joy to behold.
Blah Blah
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LUXE Loves
Swedish people are genetically unable to
get through the day without the concept
of ‘ta en fika’ – or as we know it, coffee
(or tea), cake and klatsch. Make your way
therefore to Chaikhana in the old town
Gamla Stan, where this trig as a fig tea
house boasts 200+ blends, and means
you can amble around the charming and
romantic old cobbled streets afterwards
before settling in for your candlelit supper
à deux at pretty Den Gyldene Freden, the
city’s oldest restaurant, dating from 1722.
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Style
Start your day at The Espresso Bar of
the Moderna Museet on the island of
Skeppsholmen, and of course don’t
forget the collection that contains works
by Dali, Matisse, Duchamp and Picasso,
among others. Now, walk over the bridge
to Norrmalm and you’ll pass the lovely
Lydmar Hotel (see LUXE Loves) on your
right, grab a cab here to nearby Mäster
Samuelsgatan. This little cross street
in the heart of the busy Östermalm
shopping district is home to the unique,
contemporary fragrance house Byredo,
where you’ll find beautifully packaged
scents, bodycare and room fragrance
with names like Pulp, Fantastic Man and
Loose Lips. Also on this street are cult
fashion brands Whyred and V Avenue
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
Shoe Repair, and Zink Grill, the perfect
shop and flop all day diner for great
brunches, steaks and classic hearty fare.
With lunch completed, don’t waste a
second getting a cab and heading over
to edgy, gritty Södermalm, or SoFo as it’s
affectionately known. With an absolute
wealth of vintage, denim, interior stores
and kitsch, it makes for a wonderful
afternoon of browsing – don’t miss Lisa
Larsson, the reigning Queen of Vintage,
and of course Sweden’s signature hip
label Acne, and be sure to ta en fika at
Bageriet Urban Deli, the too cool for
school java spot. Returning back through
Gamla Stan, detour to Norrmälarstrand
in Kungsholmen and pull up a waterside
chair to watch the glorious sunset with a
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LUXE Loves
Negroni in hand at Orangeriet. Stockholm
is a fabulous people-watching city, and
there are few places better to see and be
scene for drinks and supper than Riche
– this city fixture never ceases to attract
the chow n’ ciao crowd, and its in-house
sister bar Lilla will keep you buzzy and
busy. With your dancing shoes firmly on,
simply quickstep up Birger Jarslgatan
and check your coat at Spy Bar, a stylepacked apartment featuring multiple,
themed rooms, but head for the club-inclub gentlemen’s lounger Gubbrummet
within for maximum glam.
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Design
Stockholm’s interior design scene
is second to none, with an amazing
array of furniture, fashion and lifestyle
accessories, and a great place to start
browsing is at Jacksons on Sibyllegatan
in Östermalm. This handsome edit of
C.20th post-war furniture and design
comes with a satisfying sprinkle of
famous names and collectibles. Only a few
doors down, step into Asplund where a
homegrown interior design brand meets
international labels for mutual admiration
and long-term investment. Further
down Sibyllegatan is our favorite store
Modernity (see LUXE Loves), featuring
an irresistible mix of C.20th international
and Scandinavian design, with plenty of
iconic mint condition pieces to hanker
after. The little square next to Modernity
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
is Östermalmstorg – cross over it and
into food hall Östermalms Saluhall for
many tasty lunchtime options. No trip to
Stockholm would be complete without
a visit to the most famous design house
of all, Svenkst Tenn (see LUXE Loves).
Founded in 1924 and famous for its bold,
graphic prints and designs, the brand has
become an international icon amongst
interior designers, and its position on
Strandvägen is only minutes down
Sibyllegatan from Östermalmstorg. For
design of a different kind, don’t miss the
awe-inspiring Vasa Museet (see LUXE
Loves). Walking through the door of this
purpose-built museum brings you face to
face with life in the C.17th, in the guise of
the astonishingly preserved remains of a
sunken warship and her contents. Coffee!
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LUXE Loves
Ta en fika at daft and dotty Sturekatten,
a granny’s parlor fit-out, where the tea
and coffee refills are free, and then head
down nearby Nybrogatan to find Nordiska
Galleriet, a store packed with cleanlined, experimental one-offs, functional
furniture, lighting, rugs and glass. Well,
after a day full of design shopping, you’re
going to need somewhere stylish to
eat. For ultra-glamour and design on a
grand scale, book well ahead for a table
at Operakällaren, the Opera House’s
exquisitely carved and gilded salon, where
the décor is as sumptuous as the menu.
Smaklig måltid!
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The Essentials
ROMANCE
STYLE
• Ett Hem
(see LUXE Loves)
• Moderna Museet
Slupskjulsvägen 7 / Skeppsholmen
+46 8 52 02 35 00
modernamuseet.se
• Bageriet Urban Deli
Skånegatan 76 / Södermalm
+46 8 59 90 91 90
urbandeli.org
• Lydmar Hotel
(see LUXE Loves)
• Orangeriet
Norr Mälarstrand Kajplats 464
Kungsholmen
+46 8 50 52 44 75
orangerietbar.se
• Östermalms Saluhall
Östermalmstorg / Östermalm
ostermalmshallen.se
• Hallwylska Museet
(see LUXE Loves)
• Byredo
Mäster Samuelsgatan 10 / Norrmalm
+46 8 525 02 61
byredo.com
• Bakfickan
(see LUXE Loves)
• Lisa Elmqvist
Östermalms Saluhall / Östermalmstorg
Östermalm
+46 8 53 34 04 00
lisaelmqvist.se
• Chaikhana
Svartmangatan 23 / Gamla Stan
+46 8 24 45 00
chaikhana.se
• Den Gyldene Freden
Österlånggatan 51 / Gamla Stan
+46 8 24 97 60
gyldenefreden.se
• Whyred
Mäster Samuelsgatan 3 / Norrmalm
+46 8 660 01 70
whyred.se
• V Avenue Shoe Repair
Mäster Samuelsgatan 2 / Norrmalm
+46 8 611 16 40
• Riche & Lilla Baren
Birger Jarlsgatan 4 / Östermalm
+46 8 54 50 35 60
riche.se
• Gubbrummet
Spy Bar / Birger Jarlsgatan 20
Östermalm
+46 8 54 50 76 00
stureplansgruppen.se
• Zink Grill
Bibilioteksgatan 5 / Norrmalm
+46 8 611 42 22
zinkgrill.se
• Lisa Larsson
Bondegatan 48 / Södermalm
+46 8 643 61 53
lisalarssonsecondhand.com
• Acne
Torsgatan 53 / Odenplan
+46 8 30 27 23
acnestudios.com
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
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LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials
DESIGN
• Jacksons
Sibyllegatan 53 / Östermalm
+46 8 665 33 50
jacksons.se
• Asplund
Sibyllegatan 31 / Östermalm
+46 8 662 52 84
asplund.org
• Modernity
(see LUXE Loves)
• Östermalms Saluhall
Östermalmstorg / Östermalm
ostermalmshallen.se
• Svenkst Tenn
(see LUXE Loves)
• Vasa Museet
(see LUXE Loves)
• Sturekattan
Riddargatan 4 / Östermalm
+46 8 611 16 12
sturekatten.se
• Nordiska Galleriet
Nybrogatan 11 / Östermalm
+46 8 442 83 60
nordiskagalleriet.se
• Operakällaren
Operahuset / Karl XII:s torg 111
Norrmalm
+46 8 676 58 00
operakallaren.se
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Intro
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