Bolivia – T re k - Mountain Kingdoms

Transcription

Bolivia – T re k - Mountain Kingdoms
Cordillera Real Traverse
Bolivia – Trek
The classic Bolivian trek, renowned for its
spectacular beauty and astonishing tranquillity
Trek to Laguna Chiar Khota by Andi Harrison
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
2013 dates and prices:
Accommodation:
Hotels/camping
Sat 18 May - Sat 08 Jun £1,625
Sat 07 Sep - Sat 28 Sep £1,625
Grade:
Max trek altitude:
Strenuous
5,396m/17,698ft
The price includes all internal flights, necessary
trekking permits and park fees
Duration:
22 Days, London to London
On Trek:
15 days
Min/Max group size: 4/8
Guaranteed to run for 4
Trek Leader:
Local leader
Land only:
Joining in La Paz
Land only Flight incl from
£2,595
£2,595
One of the world’s best treks along
the entire 120 mile length of the
‘Royal’ mountain range which
remains infrequently travelled and
remarkably deserted
tel: 01453 844400
fax: 01453 844422
[email protected]
www.mountainkingdoms.com
Introduction
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12 night Cordillera Real trek in some of the most spectacular scenery in South America
Visit pre-Inca ruins at Tihuanaco.
Includes visits to Copacabana and the Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca
Full-service camping on trek and comfortable hotels elsewhere
Our trip begins with a carefully crafted acclimatisation programme, which includes time exploring La Paz and an
optional visit to the ruins at Tiwanaco. You will also spend time relaxing and walking around Lake Titicaca and
on the Island of the Sun (Isla del Sol) - home to the Andean creation legends. This will provide a wonderful
opportunity to appreciate the simple farming and fishing life of the Aymara communities who live here, a
lifestyle that has remained largely unchanged for hundreds of years. You will also enjoy the splendid views of
the Cordillera Real across the lake.
Your trek starts near the small colonial town of Sorata, this new route traverses along the western side of
Cordillera Real following a different route than the classic “Transcordillera” on the eastern side. The reason
why we do not follow the old route anymore is because the trail has been destroyed in several sections to build
mining roads. Only for the last five days of the trek we re-join the classic route, but even in this section we do
not strictly follow the standard route. Perhaps with the exception of the last campsite at Condoriri base camp,
the rest of the route remains infrequently travelled and remarkably deserted. Since the Bolivian Andes are
some of the most untouched and under-trekked mountains on earth, you will not find any trekking lodges or
tourism infrastructure.
Most trekking days include a steep pass crossing (two over 5,000m) and each day brings fresh views of new
mountain groups and different views of the highlands and Lake Titicaca. In the valleys you pass by small
traditional farmsteads where potatoes are cultivated and llamas herded.
Bolivia is a land of extraordinary contrasts and extremes in terms of geography, topography, climate, history and
culture. The size of France and Spain combined, this huge landlocked country is home to some of the highest
and least visited Andean mountain ranges (‘cordilleras’) including many stunning glaciated peaks over
6,000m/20,000ft. Bolivia is the least densely populated country in Latin America with only 8.5 million people,
most of whom live in the Andean Highlands. The paucity of population and vast geographical size has hindered
economic development and today Bolivia is one of the poorest nations in the region. Culturally, however, it is
one of the richest; with the majority of the population belonging to indigenous racial and linguistic groups it is
the most “Andean” country on the continent. Quechua and Aymara speaking campesinos (peasantry) continue
to farm and live traditional lives in adjoining mountain ranges.
The Cordillera Real – “the “Royal Range” - is the longest mountain range in the country and forms the backbone
of the Bolivian highlands. It was so named by the Spanish conquistadors because of its majestic appearance
when seen from the Altiplano, the high plateau that runs south from Peru. The Cordillera Real extends for 160
km/100 miles from north to south from Illampu to Illimani, the latter peak dominating the skyline of La Paz. It
is home to the Aymara speaking people who are descendants of the Tiahuanaco Empire, the longest running
Andean civilisation, which provided the inspiration for the better known but less extensive and short-lived Inca
Empire.
Trek Leader
Your trek leader will normally be either Jose Camarlinghi or Javier Thellaeche our colleagues in Bolivia.
Alternatively it will be another experienced guide appointed by them.
JOSE CAMARLINGHI. Jose's love of nature and mountains started with his first visit to
the Andes when he was 14 years old. Since then the "Call of the Hills" has not diluted
and he has dedicated his life to work as a mountain guide. Proper training for Joe
started in 1984 with the aid of the German government and the German Alpine Club
(DAV). Then a group of Bolivians were certified as a mountain guide’s instructors. After
many years of negotiation, Bolivia succeeded in becoming a member of the
International Mountain Guides Association (IMGA, UIAGM, IVBV) in 2005. Jose then
achieved his international Certification. He has studied Film Making and holds a Masters
degree on Script Writing and has worked on some documentary projects with the BBC.
He has lead trekking and climbing groups in Bolivia, Ecuador, Peru, Argentina and Chile
and speaks Spanish, English and French.
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Outline itinerary
Days 1-3
Day 4
Days 5-7
Days 8-11
Days 12-13
Days 14-18
Days 19-20
Days 21-22
Fly to La Paz. Visit to Tihuanaco and optional city tour of La Paz.
Drive to Copacabana (3,850m) on the shore of Lake Titicaca. Visit the Cathedral and stations
of the cross.
Drive to Sampaya (4,000m). Trek to Yampupata. Take a boat to Isla del Sol, and then trek to
La Estancia Ecolodge. Trek the length of Isla del Sol. Sail back to the mainland via Moon
Island.
Begin the trek of the Cordillera Real Traverse. Trek to Alta Llojena, San Francisco Lake and
Jistana Lagoon
Trek to Chachacomani. The following day is free to relax and explore the local area.
Trek to Jaillawaya River via 2 high passes, continue via Koatia (another 2 passes), Laguna
Alka Quota and on to Junkhata and Condoriri base camp
Continue trekking to Botijlaca via Ancoma with a further two 5,000m+ mountain passes.
Drive to La Paz.
Fly to the UK.
Mountain Kingdoms Responsible Tourism Policy
Award winners
Mountain Kingdoms has a top five star rating for sustainable tourism from the Association of
Independent Tour Operators' (AITO) and is a previous winner of the prestigious annual AITO
Responsible Tourism Award.
Our commitment
Mountain Kingdoms is committed to responsible tourism, through policies and practices which permeate all
aspects of its business. Our policies aim to ensure that we and our clients act in a way which is socially,
environmentally and culturally sound. We feel strongly that all Mountain Kingdoms holidays should benefit local
communities, protect the environment by minimising pollution, and respect local traditions, religion and
heritage. We tread lightly - low volume, low impact trekking/touring is the best way of preserving the beautiful
and fragile places we visit.
We work with organisations such as Tourism Concern, International Porter Protection Group (IPPG), Tourism
Industry Carbon Offset Service (TICOS), AITO and various charities, to help achieve our responsible tourism
goals.
Our Initiatives
We support a number of Responsible Tourism initiatives and organisations in many of the destinations we visit.
Our main initiative is raising funds for school in Nepal and to date we have raised over £14,000. Other examples
of our recent ongoing work are the Simien Mountains Mobile Medical Service, the Bridge Project in Zanskar and
support for the Village Education Project in Kilimanjaro. Further details of all our Responsible Tourism
initiatives can be found at www.mountainkingdoms.com
Porter Protection
In the countries where we use porters such as Nepal and Peru, we feel that the issue of porter
protection is immensely important. We support the work and the aims of the IPPG (International
Porter Protection Group) and as such we have a set of guidelines to adhere to and which we apply
worldwide.
Carbon off-setting
Working with the Tourism Industry Carbon Offset Service (TICOS) we offset the carbon emissions for every
Mountain Kingdoms holiday booked by clients that includes a flight. TICOS allocates this money to a school in
Ladakh, India which Mountain Kingdoms has supported for many years. Clients who book a
Land Only trip with us may like to make their own contribution via the TICOS website
www.ticos.co.uk.
Further information
When we receive your booking we send you a full Trek Dossier which contains details of visas and vaccinations
required, a suggested gear and clothing list and lots of useful information.
If you do have queries at this initial stage do ring us on 01453 844400 and we will be pleased to offer advice.
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Day-by-day itinerary
DAY 1 - SATURDAY:
DEPART LONDON.
At present there are no direct flights from Europe to Bolivia. The main routes in to the country involve
travelling via the USA (Miami) or Brazil. It is a long and somewhat arduous journey to Bolivia whichever way
you go, but this has the advantage of keeping it off of the main international tourist trail.
DAY 2 – SUNDAY:
ARRIVE LA PAZ (4,100m/13452ft)
Depending on the time of day and approach, the views of the mountains as you
land at La Paz's airport, El Alto International Airport , will take your breath away.
If not, the altitude certainly will. Appropriately named El Alto (The High One), it is
the highest international airport in the world: at nearly 4,100m/13,450ft it is
higher than the Eiger. The area around the airport on the Altiplano has grown into
a city in its own right. Some suggest it is the fastest growing city in South America,
its growth primarily driven by peasant migration from the land. Although of no
aesthetic merit, it is a colourful and lively city.
You will transfer directly to La Paz (approx. 30/40 minutes), which lies in a canyon below - at a mere
3,600m/9,870ft. There are tremendous views of the city dominated by Mount Illimani as you descend. You will
be transferred to your hotel.
The rest of the day is at leisure, but we recommend that you rest and acclimatise. Drink copious amounts of
water or coca tea - the traditional preventative for “soroche” (altitude sickness). Careful acclimatisation is
important when visiting Bolivia given the high altitude reached immediately on arrival. Any initial discomfort
should pass swiftly if care is taken. Do not worry however, the first few days of the itinerary have been
carefully planned to allow for good acclimatisation before you begin trekking.
Lunch and dinner are not included today, but your guides can make recommendations on where you might like
to eat.
Overnight at the Hotel Rey Palace.
DAY 3 – MONDAY:
LA PAZ, VISIT TO TIAHUANACO AND/OR FREE TIME EXPLORING IN LA PAZ.
Today you have an included excursion to Tiahuanaco, or alternatively you may
spend time exploring La Paz on your own (ideas below). In the morning it will
take 1 ½ hours to drive the 72km / 45 miles to Tiahuanaco. After driving up out
of the La Paz canyon onto the Altiplano you follow the main supply road to Peru,
crossing the cold and windswept Pampa Koani, before arriving at Tiahuanaco.
This area is sparsely populated, less than 10,000 people live here today and in
great poverty. But 1,500 years ago it supported over 100,000 thanks to a
complex system of irrigation and raised fields (sukakollu). The city of
Tiahuanaco was once the hub and ceremonial centre for one of South America’s greatest and longest-running
empires (approximately AD100 to AD1250). The empire was far reaching - including half of present-day Bolivia
and swathes of Peru, Chile and Argentina.
You will visit the new museum that now houses the Ponce and Fraile Monoliths, the archaeological remains of
the Kalaysaya Temple (including the Puerta del Sol) and the Templo Semisubterraneo. Unfortunately the site
bears little relation to its former magnificence having been ravaged first by the Spaniards and later the British in the 1890s a British railway company dynamited temple stonework and icons to produce gravel for railway
tracks. Nevertheless the history of this little known empire is fascinating and is only recently receiving the level
of research it deserves. In fact new excavations have recently started and fresh information is emerging.
You will return to La Paz arriving mid afternoon. For those who have been to Tiahuanaco – depending on the
time and energy available - it may just be possible to visit a couple of La Paz sights before dinner.
There is plenty to do for those that decide to stay in La Paz, instead of going to Tiahuanaco. You may wish to
promenade down the main thoroughfare – El Prado - which forms the backbone of the city, feed the pigeons in
Plaza Murillo (home to the National Assembly and official Presidential Residence) or visit the splendid colonial
church of San Francisco and the myriad markets in the streets above it.
In addition there are a variety of museums to visit including the Museo National del Arte which is housed in one
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of the finest examples of what little colonial architecture is left in La Paz - the old Palacio de los Condes de
Arena (dating from 1775).
La Paz is a great city for market enthusiasts - in fact the whole city is almost one big street-market. From the
Mercado de Hechiceria (the Witches Market where various potions and 'mesas', amulets and even dried llama
foetuses are dispensed) to the vibrant food markets – you will encounter 'chola' ladies manning the stalls. These
are formidable commercial women, whose dress is highly distinctive: a voluminous skirt (pollera), fringed shawl
(manta) topped off with an undersized bowler hat balanced aloft with great dexterity.
Overnight at the Hotel Rey Palace.
(Meals: B,L)
Note: Lunch is included only if going to Tiahuanaco. Dinner is not included.
DAY 4 – TUESDAY:
DRIVE TO COPACABANA & LAKE TITICACA.
It is 158km/98 miles and a 4-hour drive to Copacabana (3,850m/12,630ft).
On the way you will cross the Straights of Tiquina on ferries - before
arriving at this attractive small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Copacabana is primarily a pilgrimage centre, with its main plaza
dominated by the Moorish-style cathedral. Originally built between 1610
and 1620, now much restored, it houses the Virgen de Candelaria, Bolivia's
Patron saint.
Every Sunday people bring their cars and trucks to be blessed in front of
the cathedral as an extra form of spiritual insurance. It is a colourful
event with the vehicles decked with flowers, ribbons and balloons. Depending on the owner’s preference, holy
water or alcohol and firecrackers are used for blessings (in Bolivia, Catholicism and ancient Andean beliefs are
often intertwined).
If you get to Copacabana in time, you might have a chance to eat Lake Titicaca trout for lunch – lunch being the
main meal of the day for Bolivians. You will explore town and may walk up Cerro Calvario pausing at the
Stations of the Cross. This hill sits on a headland, which overlooks the town and the port.
Copacabana has a beach, so in addition to it being a pilgrimage centre, it could potentially class itself as a
“resort”. The name Copacabana comes from Kota meaning ‘lake’ and Kawana meaning ‘bay’ and it is said that
the name was taken to Brazil by a priest who took with him a reproduction of the Madonna from this town.
Unlike its counterpart in Brazil however you will not find beach volleyball a popular activity; but the sight of
pedallos for hire at over 3,810m/12,500 feet is certainly different!
Overnight at the Hotel Rosario del Lago
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 5 – WEDNESDAY:
DRIVE & TREK – ISLA DEL SOL, 2-3 hours WALKING.
In the morning you will drive to Sampaya (1½ hours), your journey taking you over a 4,000m/13,120ft ridge.
After a brief stop in the village you will trek to Yampupata (2½ hours) – this walk takes you along a peninsula
and the views of the lake and mountains beyond are tremendous.
In Yampupata you will meet your boatman who will take you by motor boat across to the Island of the Sun, a
short journey of about 30 minutes. It is difficult to believe that these cobalt-blue waters are 3,810m/12,500ft
above sea level. To the east the snowcapped peaks of the Cordillera Real appear to rise out of the lake.
Because of the clear sky and thin air they appear much closer than they actually are. In the evening the snow
peaks glow with the sun's setting rays.
The original name for the Island of the Sun was ‘Titi Karka’ or ‘Titi Kachi’ meaning “The rock of the Puma”; the
Spanish adopted this and used it to refer to the whole lake. You will land by the Inca ruins of Pilcocaina
Palace, supposedly the “Summer” Palace of the emperor, and then walk about 1½ hours to your destination for
the night. On the way you will pass by the Fuente del Inca – a pure spring with stone Inca steps leading up to it.
Overnight at the La Estancia Ecolodge.
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(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 6 – THURSDAY:
TREK ISLA DEL SOL, 3-4 OR 7 hours WALKING,
DEPENDING ON RETURN ROUTE CHOSEN.
Today you will trek the length of the island admiring the Inca terraces, many of which are still used, passing
through villages and walking along sandy beaches. The author of this itinerary has swum here, but would not be
tempted to try again unless equipped with a wet suit or goose fat to ward off the cold of the water at this
altitude.
Your objective is to reach the northwest end of the island where you can visit a sacred rock, which was
worshipped as the birthplace of the first Incas: Manco Kapac and Mama Oclo, son and daughter of Viracocha.
You will also have time to visit the ruins of Chincana. The walk to the northern end of the island takes
approximately 3-4 hours (all walk times include provision for breaks). Given you are not fully acclimatised your
boatman will be waiting for you here to take you back to the southern end of the island – however the option
exists to walk back too. (Highest point on trek: 4,065m/13,337ft.) Although more frequently visited these days,
the island is a quiet and beautiful place. It is a great location in which to continue your acclimatisation.
Overnight at La Estancia Ecolodge.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 7 – FRIDAY:
VISIT ISLA DE LA LUNA – DRIVE TO SORATA (2,600m/8530ft),
1 hour by boat and 4 hours drive.
Early in the morning you will make a short boat crossing of less than an hour to visit the Isla de la Luna (Moon
Island – whose original name is Koati). Here you will visit the ruins of the Temple of the Nustas, where once
Inca virgins spent their lives adoring the sun god Inti. Although they may have been occasionally sacrificed, they
probably spent most of their lives involved in less sacred tasks like chewing corn to make chicha (an alcoholic
drink still made in the Andes using the same technique), weaving cloth and acting as concubines for Inca royalty.
Unfortunately the main temple was converted into an open prison in the 1940s by one of Bolivia’s many military
regimes and many of the stones were pillaged to build houses for the guards. Nevertheless it is still a good
place to admire the precision of Inca stone cutting.
You will pick up your transport and drive to Sorata (4 hours). Your drive takes you along the shores of Lake
Titicaca through small fishing and farming communities before joining the paved road to the town of Achacachi,
which is well-known for its political militancy. You will stop for lunch as you follow the north-eastern shore of
the lake and thereafter head into Sorata.
From Lake Titicaca the Cordillera Real appears to lie just across the
Altiplano, however there is a set of deep hidden valleys between the
two and you will drive down into these. Sorata sits at the relatively
low altitude of 2,747m/9,010ft, it is warmer and the vegetation lush by
comparison. Sorata is a beautiful colonial town and a good place to
buy last-minute supplies before your trek ahead. It was a trading
centre for coca, quinine and rubber – commodities brought up and over
the Andes from the cloud forests and jungles to the east. On the back
of the last commodities boom in 1900 it was made a “ciudad” (city).
Today, despite the palm trees in the square and the majestic views of
Mount Illampu (6,368m/20,892ft) from here, it is a sleepy backwater.
Overnight Residencial Sorata.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 8 - SATURDAY:
DRIVE TO TRAILHEAD AND TREK TO ALTO LLOJENA (5-6 hours walking)
You begin the day with an exciting drive in your jeeps climbing out of Sorata towards Millipaya
(3,790m/14,431ft). From the trailhead you will start trek on the opposite slopes of the massif formed by
Jankouma (6,427m/21,080ft) and Illampu (6,362m/20,769ft) Mountains. The route for today will be relatively
gentle since we will only gain a couple hundred meters in altitude and cover less than 10km distance, since this
trekking route has only recently been explored there is no clear trail, so you will be walking mainly off-trail
following llama paths or secondary mining tracks.
The views of the hanging glaciers of the Illampu-Jankouma massif (the largest in Cordillera Real) and the
intensively farmed valleys below make us wonder if we are in the Andes or the Himalayas. Our campsite
(3,973m/13,031ft) will be located in a grassy spot in a wide valley of Sorata river.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
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DAY 9 - SUNDAY:
TREK TO SAN FRANCISCO LAKE (6-7 HOURS WALKING)
Today’s route will also follow easy terrain ascending gradually along the valley of Sorata river towards the pass
(4,717m/15,472ft), on your way you will follow on and off llama paths traversing large land of low grass where,
if you look closely, you can spot the paths of ancient, almost disappeared, aqueducts. Along today’s walk you
will enjoy great views of the mountains: Jankouma, Wakana (6,200m/20,336ft), Kasiri (5,857m/19,211ft) and
Janko Piti (5,725m/18,778ft). Each one of them is part of very complex group of mountains; each one with its
own valley systems, glaciers and several peaks (some of them still unclimbed). To the west the views of the
immensely open high lands of the “Altiplano” with Lake Titicaca in the background are overwhelming. You can
clearly recognize the town of Achacachi in the plains (main settlement in the area) and the Islands of the Sun
and the Moon in Lake Titicaca. The Indigenous people of this land belong to an ancient ethnic group named
“Omasuyus”.
Our campsite (4,639m/15,216ft) will be located in a grassy spot in a valley leading towards the southern slopes
of Jankouma Mountain, the same valley that in 1900 was travelled by Sir.Martin Conway during the first attempt
to climb Ancouma Mountain which height in that time was still uncertain and estimated to perhaps be higher
than Aconcagua. Approximately 12km of walking.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 10 - MONDAY:
TREK TO AYOJANI (5-6 HOURS WALKING)
There is normally so much water in this valley that the swampy grass basically covers the whole valley from side
to side, which makes crossing the short distance to the other side a real challenge. The contrast of the yellow
valley and the colourful slopes of the mountain with the white of the glaciers deserve a picture stop. Once on
the other side, you start the ascent to a magnificent view point (4,944m/16,216ft) on a rocky ridge on the
south-eastern flank of Kasiri Mountain (5,875m/19,270ft). From this point you will have a superb view of the
huge Jankouma massif and the mountains of Cordillera Real. On a clear day you can see Sajama volcano
(6,549m/21,480ft) - an extinct volcano which is Bolivia’s highest mountain - almost 250km to the south. The
topography of the ridges and valleys on the western slopes of Cordillera Real is quite complex. This means that
although every day we mention one or two mountain passes to cross, in fact we will cross several side valleys
and therefore ascent to several high points on the way.
Camp will be set near the shores of Ajoyani lagoon (4,685m/15,367ft), this valley leads towards Calzada pass;
the only mountain pass in Cordillera Real in the region. Approximate 11km walking.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 11 - TUESDAY:
TREK TO JISTAÑA LAGOON (4-5 HRS WALKING).
A short day after the three previous exhausting days. Your way towards your campsite, located in a grassy flat
area near Jistaña lagoon (4,629m/15,183ft), will not follow the easy way but will take a little more interesting
one ascending the spectacular view point of Jisca Lluspini (4,936m/16,279ft). The reason to have a short day is
to allow you to have some rest, do some laundry, read a book and enjoy the campsite but, if you still have
energy this valley is so beautiful that it deserves a short hike to explore the campsite surroundings with great
views of new mountains: Calzada (5,650m/18,532ft), Chearoco (6,127m/20,101ft) and Chachacomani
(6,074m/19,922ft); two of the six 6,000ers in Cordillera Real. Approximate 7km walking.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 12 - WEDNESDAY:
TREK TO CHACHACOMANI RIVER (6-7 HRS WALKING).
Most of the valleys on this side of Cordillera Real are intensively used by shepherds who
take their llama herds up and down the valleys to graze. That is why most of the main
and wide trails we find are disappointingly never on our way along the mountain range.
Today is not an exception and we start the day ascending and traversing on a steep slope
following narrow secondary Llama paths towards the first pass of the day
(4,951m/16,239ft). Further ahead going down to the next valley we make a stop in one
of the most extraordinary viewpoints for Chacomani mountain.
At the bottom of the grassy valley near Kelluani river (the river of the Sea gulls), you will have lunch and later
traverse the next ridge towards our campsite located at the banks of Chachacomani River (4,426m/14,517ft); as
usual the ridge we have to cross is composed by several ups and downs which highest point (4,798m/15,737ft)
we can call our second pass of the day. Approximate 15km walking.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
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DAY 13 - THURSDAY:
REST DAY / LOCAL EXPLORATION
A well-deserved rest day and a good opportunity to refresh yourselves before the rigours of the passes ahead.
This is a great spot to enjoy the views and write up diaries. For those who do not wish to rest there is ample
opportunity to make a really interesting excursion to explore the upper reaches of the valley.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 14 - FRIDAY:
TREK TO JAILLAWAYA RIVER (7-8 HRS WALKING).
Today we have a long day to – once again - traverse another complex set of ridges, this time with one main river
to cross; Pura Purani, and two main mountain passes of 4,911m/16,108ft and 4,856m/15,928ft. Camp will be set
at the banks of Jaillawaya River (4,475m/14,678t), near the junction with Minasa River.
The side valleys you will visit along the route look surreal; sometimes reminiscent of a Dali painting. Some of
these closed valleys that host yellowish grassy oasis are surrounded by unusually dark sandy slopes. When
crossing the upper parts of the route you will have great views of new mountains on the route, namely: Jisca
Pata (5,508m/18,066ft), Janko Laya (5,545m/18,187ft), Janjo Uyu (5,512m/18,079ft) and the impressive Wara
Warani (5,542m/18,177ft). Approximately 16km walking.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 15 - SATURDAY:
TREK TO KOATIA (7-8 HRS WALKING).
Another challenging but rewarding day! Today you will take a direct ascending route towards an immense rocky
cirque formed by the western slopes of Wara Warani Mountain which host a beautiful glacial lake
(4.920m/16,137ft) where glaciers drop down. Later you will contour the lake and ascent to the first pass of the
day (5,047m/16,554ft) from where you will discover new mountains of this group: Willa Lloje (5,596m/18,354ft)
and Pako Keuta (5,589m/18,332ft). After crossing the second pass of 5,010m/16,432ft), you will have a steep
but fun descend to Janko Kota valley where you will set camp at (4,439m/14,560ft) in a beautiful spot between
the colorful Koatia and Kara Kota lagoons. On the way you spot for the first time the Condoriri group and Huayna
Potosi Mountain.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 16 – SUNDAY:
TREK TO LAGUNA ALKA QUOTA (6-7 hours walking)
The route for the next 5 days is part of the classic “Transcordillera” trek and the trails will mostly be wide and after so many days walking off-trail - unusually well trodden. Your day begins from Koatia gradually ascending
towards the highest point of a ridge at 4,750m/15,580ft to then descent to the next valley and cover a long
distance to the campsite at the shores of Alka Quota lagoon (4,525m/14,842ft). To your east lies the Condoriri
group – a major milestone in our journey.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 17 – MONDAY:
TREK TO LAGUNA JURIKHOTA, 4-5 hours WALKING.
A really sustained high altitude day as you weave your way around the western side the Condiriri group.
You cross two passes in quick succession – Paso Sistana (5,097m/16,718ft) and Paso Jurikhota (4,936/16,190ft),
from the second pass you can get a really good view of Condoriri, arguably Bolivia’s most beautiful mountain
before descending to the camp by the shore of Laguna Jurikhota, a beautiful spot at 4,695m/15,400ft.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 18 – TUESDAY:
TREK TO LAGUNA CHIAR KHOTA / CONDORIRI BASE CAMP
The climb up to today’s pass takes you between the rocky peaks of Cerro
Ventanani and Janchallani (both 5,400m/17,712ft). From the col you gain
good views of the glaciers and snowfields of Ala Izquierda
(5,532m/18,149ft) and Cabeza de Condor (5,658m/18,530ft).
These two taken together with Ala Derecha (5,482m/17,985ft) form the
famous view of the Condoriri group – from which it takes its name - best
seen once you have descended from the pass to our camp beside Chiar
Khota. From here the mountains resemble a condor’s head flanked by
outstretched wings.
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Depending on time and conditions, it may be possible to deviate from the pass at the col and ascend Pico Austria
(5,396m/17,698ft). An easy path zigzags its way up this rocky mountain to its summit, from which the views
north encompass most of the mountains you have passed on your journey to date. The path is distinct because
it is often used by climbers who are looking to acclimatise before tackling the popular climbing peaks in the
Condoriri group.
This evening you will camp by Laguna Chiar Khota (4,650m/15,257ft) and will probably share your campsite with
others for the first and only time on this trip, for this is the base camp area for the climbing community
(although their approach route is different).
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 19 – WEDNESDAY:
TREK TO ANCOMA, 5-6 hours walking
You enjoy good views of Condoriri and Ilusion (5,330m/17,487ft) as you head up towards your first pass between
Aguja Negra (5,290m/17,335ft) and Pico Mirador (5,226m/17,335ft). From the pass itself you get your first
views of another important milestone, Huayna Potosi (6,088m/19,974ft), below which your journey eventually
ends.
Your second pass (5,000m/16,400ft) is only marginally higher than the first (4,850m/15,908ft) and is your last.
Thereafter you drop to Livinosa Lagoon, then follow the valley down your campsite at Ancoma at a mere
4,000m/13,120ft below a steep rocky mountain wall.
Overnight Camp.
(Meals: B,L,D)
DAY 20 – THURSDAY:
TREK TO BOTIJLACA (2-3 hours walk), TRANSFER TO LA PAZ drive 2-3hours
After breakfast you will depart for the final section of your trek. You
will descend into the upper transition zone between the highaltitude puna, characterised by its tough grasses, and the more
verdant valleys of the Yungas.
Your vehicles will be waiting for you by the Botiljaca hydro-electric
station on the road that follows the Zongo valley. Having said your
goodbyes to your muleteers or llama drivers you will drive back to La
Paz. Very quickly you will feel that you are leaving the wild
mountains behind, for although you pass by Huayna Potosi base
camp, the Zongo Valley bears the marks of modern man with its
extensive hydro-electric works and lakes stained by past mining activity.
It takes about two hours to drive back to central La Paz via El Alto, where you will be suddenly transported into
a world of hot water, bustling traffic and noisy commerce.
Lunch and dinner are not included, but your guides can make recommendations on where you might like to eat.
Overnight at the Hotel Rey Palace.
(Meals: B)
DAY 21 – FRIDAY:
TRANSFER TO EL ALTO AIRPORT
We will transfer you to the airport in plenty of time for your flight. Do not be unnerved by the amount of time
it takes your plane to get airborne. At this altitude you need to rumble down the runway for ages (you will not
run out of runway – it is 7km long). Long-distance flights out of the country have to route via Santa Cruz in the
Bolivian lowlands, an hour away, to refuel since it is not possible for some aircraft to get airborne with a full
complement of fuel and passengers.
(Meals: B)
DAY 22 – SATURDAY:
ARRIVE LONDON
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General information
This is intended to illustrate only an overall ‘feel’ for the route and does not show daily ascents and descents.
IMPORTANT: Please be aware that this trip involves travel above 4,000m/13,120ft. Whilst all our itineraries
are carefully designed to optimise acclimatisation to high altitudes, participants on this trip are likely to
experience some symptoms of being at altitude. The Dossier pack we provide when you book your holiday
includes comprehensive advice on safe travel at altitude. If you require further information or advice on travel
at altitude prior to booking please contact the office to speak to an experienced member of our team.
Alternatively we recommend www.medex.org.uk as a good source of information.
Temperature and rainfall
LA PAZ
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Maximum
13°C
13°C
13°C
14°C
14°C
13°C
13°C
13°C
14°C
14°C
15°C
14°C
Minimum
4°C
4°C
3°C
2°C
0°C
-2°C
-3°C
-2°C
0°C
2°C
3°C
3°C
Average
8°C
9°C
8°C
8°C
7°C
6°C
5°C
6°C
7°C
8°C
9°C
9°C
Rainfall
(mms)
130
104
71
36
13
5
8
15
30
41
51
94
*Statistics for La Paz only (it gets significantly colder in the mountains especially at night)
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Trip notes
Hotels:
We use the following hotels when not on trek or in small towns/villages:
LA PAZ: the Rey Palace Hotel is a four-star modern hotel close to the Plaza Estudiante in
central La Paz. The Prado, the main thoroughfare of the city, is but a short walk from the
hotel. All the other main sites of the city are either within walking distance or a short taxi ride
away (taxis are cheap and fixed price).
COPACABANA: the Rosario del Lago is a modern hotel near the “beach” and is the best in
town.
ISLA DEL SOL: La Estancia Ecolodge consists of 11 cottages built using local techniques and
architecture – each having good views of Lake Titicaca and the Andes beyond. Solar power is
used for hot water and heating, and every effort is being made to ensure this small
development benefits the local people.
SORATA: Residencial Sorata. A colonial style hotel restaurant with garden and a friendly
welcome.
Meal plan:
Bed and Breakfast in La Paz, all meals in hotels elsewhere and on trek.
International
flights:
We will use a reputable IATA airline.
Important note:
Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary but as this is adventure travel, we cannot guarantee
it! By its very nature adventure travel involves an element of the unexpected, particularly in remote and/or
mountainous regions. A variety of factors such as adverse weather conditions, difficulties with transportation
and the health of group members can all contribute to the need to make changes, often at the very last
minute. Changes can affect any part of the itinerary including overnight stops, duration of walking days,
choice of accommodation and routing. Your trek leader will make every effort to maintain the integrity of the
original itinerary and minimise the impact of any changes, but an easy-going and flexible nature is a real asset!
Please note that all timings and distances given are approximate.
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Mountain Kingdoms aims to offer the best value for money. We do not charge extra for meal packages or local
charges and try to ensure that all the key elements of your holiday are included - you won't get any nasty
shocks!
Therefore the price includes:
 A Local leader
 Economy class return air fares from the UK & UK
Departure Tax (flight inclusive only)
 All internal flights and hotel/airport transfers
 Good standard hotel accommodation (4 star) in
La Paz, twin share, bed and breakfast basis
 Best available hotels in outlying towns, usually
on full board
 All camping facilities and all meals on trek
Camp staff to carry out all camp work
All road transport by private vehicles
Costs of all porterage and their insurance
Sightseeing where specified
Carbon offset for clients taking our flightinclusive option
 A Mountain Kingdoms kit bag
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


The price does not include:




Travel insurance
Visa fees
Lunches and evening meals in La Paz
Airport departure taxes, excepting UK
Departure Tax


Optional trips
Tips
Optional single supplements - available for solo travellers who would prefer not to share accommodation
Single room:
Single tent:
£250
£90
Insurance:
From: £99
(Please contact the office on 01453 844400 for details)
Will the trek run?
This trip is guaranteed to run for
4 people.
In the rare event that we cancel a holiday we will refund you in full and give you at least 6 weeks warning.
During 2012 many treks were full, therefore if you want to secure a place(s) on the dates of your choice we do
advise you to book early.
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Lake Titicaca
Lago Khotia by Andi Harrison
Descent from Paso Korahuasi
Mt Illampu seen up valley from Ujtana Pampa
Isla del Sol
Cabeza de Condor
Monolith, Tiahuanoco
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2013 Cordillera Real Traverse.doc Prepared: DB 31/10/12 Rev 03/01/13
What our clients say about this trip:
This trek was one of the most interesting, varied and
challenging that I have experienced. A trek worth doing
in a country worth visiting - before the glaciers recede
even further. Mr E, Witney
Reasons to book this holiday with Mountain Kingdoms:
 We offer an excellent acclimatisation programme which includes time to explore La Paz and
around the shores of Lake Titicaca before you set off on trek.
 We use good quality hotels in La Paz and elsewhere when not camping.
 Our Bolivian agents give an excellent high quality camping experience and provide top flight
English speaking leaders.
 We have a wealth of experience within the company and staff members who are enthusiastic
about the Andes. This experience combined with the knowledge, contacts and attention to
details of our local partners means you are assured of a high quality trip.
 We use a reputable IATA airline. We are an IATA credited agent and work directly with some
of the world’s major airlines. If you wish to fly with a specific airline or on alternative dates to
the main group we would be happy to arrange this for you.
 We care about the Andes and their people and support responsible tourism. Mountain Kingdoms
has an award winning Responsible Tourism Policy, and we work hard to ensure all our local
agents adhere to our standards and procedures. We pay special attention on trek to
environmental issues such as waste management. We also pay a contribution to TICOS (Tourism
Industry Carbon Offset Service) for every client who books international flights with us.
 Unlike many of our competitors we impose a maximum group size of 8 for this particular trek.
As our minimum group size is 4 the trek is extremely likely to get “up and running”. Some of
our competitors have larger minimum group sizes and may more often cancel under-subscribed
treks.
 No hidden costs. We don’t impose surcharges for small groups.
conditions for further information.
Please see our booking
Mountain Kingdoms Ltd, 20 Long Street, Wotton-under-Edge, Gloucestershire, GL12 7BT
Tel: 01453 844400
Fax: 01453 844422
Email: [email protected]
mountainkingdoms
www.
.com
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