Jaeger-LeCoultre article Status magazine 2012

JAEGER-LECOULTRE
The clear caseback of the
Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon reveals
the movement’s “dual-wing” design, which
boasts two independent mainsprings, one for
time keeping and the other for the complication.
DREAM
LOGIC
Building on its ICONIC
foundations, JAEGERLECOULTRE brings its
CONSIDERABLE HOROLOGICAL EXPERTISE
to bear on an ARRAY of
TIMEPIECES that range
from the REVOLUTIONARY
to the REFINED. Together,
these latest models show
that the LEGENDARY
manufacture is equally
adept at exploring NEW
MECHANICAL IDEAS as
well as making SOPHISTICATED APPEALS to the
aesthete in each of us.
BY
ELISE NUSSBAUM
BACK TO ZERO
One of the paradoxes of haute horlogerie is that expanding a movement’s functionality by adding a complication has the potential to compromise the watch’s
precision. To overcome this, Jaeger-LeCoultre devised its “dual-wing” concept.
The realization of this groundbreaking design is a single movement that
features two independent power sources, one dedicated exclusively to
time keeping and a second for all other functions. A single regulating organ
distributes the energy generated by both, which optimizes accuracy for the
entire timepiece.
The Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon uses the dual-wing design for its exceptionally advanced movement, which boasts the first tourbillon adjustable
to the nearest second. A rare few have unraveled the
engineering necessary to create a tourbillon
with a stop-seconds device. But none
— until now — have made it
possible for the wearer to
reset the seconds to zero,
a remarkable achievement that enhances ultra-precise time setting.
Undoubtedly, the
most striking feature of
this Duomètre model is
its remarkable tourbillon. An opening on the dial
reveals the mechanism,
which revolves on two axes to
counter gravity’s pull on its cylindrical-shaped balance spring. The
tourbillon rotates in its titanium cage on its
standard (flat) axis once every 30 seconds and
once every 15 seconds on an axis tilted 20
degrees.
Rotating on two axes, the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon’s namesake tourbillon is the
first with a stop-seconds device that allows the wearer to reset the seconds to zero
for precise time setting.
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE
MASTER CLASS
Left: An arc-shaped indicator
A truly renowned watch brand builds its reputation
highlights the stainless steel Master
on both style and substance, and reliability is key
Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche’s
to maintaining one’s rank among the elite. To this
43-hour power reserve.
end, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its Master
Below: Like all members of the
Control line in 1992.
Master Control line, the Master
After assembly, every watch is subjected
Ultra Thin Moon 39 must pass
to six weeks of rigorous tests presided over
1,000 hours of rigorous
by the brand’s master inspector. Each watch
testing before it is allowed
is put through its paces in a specialized
to leave the factory.
machine that rotates it at irregular intervals to simulate normal wear. Then it must
endure temperature-related stress tests and
prove its accuracy in six positions. Only after
the watch has passed all its exams does the
master inspector sign its certificate and send it
off into the world.
The Master Control Ultra Thin models take this
quest for excellence one step further by imposing
strict size requirements. A prime example is the
Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche, which is
powered by an automatic movement that slips neatly
into a case that is less than 10mm thick.
Already a bestseller within the Master Control line,
the Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche refines its approach even further in
2012 with a 39mm case — available in rose gold or stainless steel — that features streamlined lugs and a slimmer face. Despite the changing proportions,
the piece maintains its clarity with a display that neatly balances central hours
and minutes, small seconds, date indication and a power reserve display.
Another member of the collection, the Master Ultra Thin Moon 39 shows
off a similar sophistication. Housed in a 39mm rose gold case, its three-hand time
display is supplemented by a single subdial that combines a date display with a
moon phase.
TWICE AS NICE
The tiny patch of real estate afforded by a wristwatch has always been a
sticking point for the world’s most ambitious horologers. Though many try to expand their
horizons by creating ever-larger canvases for this miniature artistry, JaegerLeCoultre has long held a different approach as demonstrated by its iconic
Reverso.
Its unique design upended tradition
— quite literally — by allowing the
wearer to rotate the case, effectively
doubling the area of the dial. This innovation was a boon for watch designers,
who enjoyed twice as much dial area to
The limited edition Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ seduces the eye with its
work with, and horology aficionados,
lacy open-worked architecture and blue enamel accent on the front dial.
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who could switch between dials at will. The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ combines this signature case with the highly specialized art of openworking the movement by hand. The result is a spectacular display of a cherished watchmaking technique, pulled off with verve and panache.
The front dial further evokes historical watchmaking with an enamel border
that frames the face with a rich blue that matches the traditional shade of the
model’s hour and minute hands. For centuries, enamel has been a refined
addition to watches and its use here evokes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history of
expertise.
The piece’s most noteworthy dimension is its ultra-thin profile, made
possible by its movement, which measures an astonishingly thin 1.85mm.
The mechanism’s slimness and intricate skeletonization make it an irresistible challenge for the watchmaker and equally tempting for watch lovers. The
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ is available in a limited edition of just 50 pieces.
SEA CLEARLY NOW
The Deep Sea Chronograph provides an apt example of how Jaeger-LeCoultre’s
long and rich history gives it unique license to use ideas from its past in unexpected
ways. The display for this dive watch is based on the Chronoflight — a Jaeger-LeCoultre
chronograph used onboard aircraft during the 1930s.
The system is brilliant in its clarity. A round aperture near the center of the dial
shows white when the chronograph is ready to start a new measurement, white and
red while a measurement is in progress, and red when the chronograph has been
stopped.
The Deep Sea Chronograph provides this indicator in addition to the required
array of features standard on modern diving watches: unidirectional rotating bezel,
water resistance to 100 meters, luminescent indications, shock resistance and
imperviousness to magnetic fields.
An operating indicator
positioned between two chronograph counters changes to
show when the Deep Sea
Chronograph’s signature
complication is in use.
DATE WITH DESTINY
Actress Diane Kruger is perfectly cast in her latest role as muse for the Rendez-Vous Collection.
Kruger’s ineffable talent and charisma speak through the design, imbuing each watch with the
feminine presence and power she brings to her films.
Informed by Art Deco’s clean lines and 1930s-style numerals, these watches project Kruger’s
self-assured femininity with sparkling diamond-set bezels, confident hour markers and
whimsical indicators. The mechanical movement within is a hand-guilloché treasure that
incorporates either a date or day/night display. The Rendez-Vous watch is available in
two sizes (29 or 34mm) in either rose gold or stainless steel.
With creations that range from sublimely simple to
impossibly complex, Jaeger-LeCoultre tends its legacy
with impeccable savoir-faire. ¨
The enchanting dial used for
these Rendez-Vous watches
draws inspiration from Art
Deco style, the idea of
feminine fortitude and
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history.
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