Winter 2013 - University Library

Transcription

Volume 6, Number 4
Stanislaus
Historical
Quarterly
Winter 2013
Stanislaus County
Founded 1854
An Independent Publication of Stanislaus County History
Stanislaus County in Transition
Steamboats to Bridges and Wheat to Peaches
Founding of Stanislaus County
1854
T
he year was 1854. The Russians were fighting the
British and the French on the Crimean Peninsula. Commodore
Matthew Perry’s fleet was anchored at Tokyo Bay, while he was
engaged in forging a treaty with Japan. Closer to home, the embryo
Republican Party sprang to life at Jackson, Michigan. In California
at Fort Humboldt, Ulysses S. Grant resigned from the Army because
“he was too familiar with alcohol” and moved to San Francisco
where the first U.S. Mint just opened. It was the year when
Sacramento became the capital of the Golden State, moving from
Benicia, where politicians David Broderick and B.D. Horr huddled
furtively with the results being the birth
of Stanislaus County. Yes, 1854, a world
of intrigue, really not unlike any other
year, but significant to us because our
county was born.
Francisco, where with his political acumen, he quickly became a
California state senator. He soon was a powerful legislator and
served as Acting Lieutenant Governor for 1851-52. His ambition in
becoming a U.S. senator still burned, and he saw an opportunity.
At that time, U.S. senators from California were appointed
by the California Senate. Broderick introduced a bill in the State
Senate to hold the appointment of the next U.S. senator one year
early. He felt he had nearly enough state senatorial support to be
appointed. He calculated that he needed one more vote to make the
vote a tie, in which Lieutenant Governor Purdy, the presiding officer
of the State Senate and strong supporter
of Broderick, would cast the tie-breaking
vote for him.
Assemblyman Horr
To get the one necessary vote,
Broderick needed a new Democratic
The birth of Stanislaus County
Party state senator. There was a State
amounts to a tale of American political
Assembly colleague who might produce
connivance, tied to the fight for political
what he needed. It was B.D. Horr, State
power not only in the state but also in
Assemblyman of Tuolumne, who
the region and the nation. It was the
resided near Dickinson’s Ferry along the
antebellum age (pre-Civil War) when
Stanislaus River, in a tiny settlement
states-rights proponents of the South
known as Horr’s Ranch (where Roberts
Stanislaus County was part of Tuolumne County
waged a war of words and some deeds
Ferry would be located). Horr introduced
until 1854, and Merced County was part of Mariwith those of the North who wanted
a bill to establish Merced County from
posa County until 1855
abolition of slavery and a strong federal
Mariposa and Tuolumne counties, but
government. The Democratic Party was
there was strong opposition by
a mess, divided along sectional lines, and California was not spared Mariposa lawmakers, which could scuttle his legislation. He
a bit in the morass.
recomposed the bill, and this time he offered legislation that would
On the Central Valley plains, some life was still primal. One carve a new county out of Tuolumne County. Its name would be
could yet hear the bull elk bellowing for its mate. And just as primal, Stanislaus, the common designation already for the area. This time
perhaps, up in Sonora, a miner, let’s call him Tim Horne, was drunk Horr had a petition of support from Tuolumne County’s valley
as usual, staggered and fell in the mud and mire of Main Street, residents, wanting the new Stanislaus County. On January 26, 1854,
unconscious. However, many conscious citizens of Tuolumne when the legislature was still at Benicia, he introduced the Stanislaus
County were saying at the time, “the county was just too dang County bill, which requested the formation of the 15th Senatorial
big!” Valley people especially harped that Sonora, the county seat, District and that two of the five assemblymen allotted to Tuolumne
was “way up yonder,” too far to travel to transact county business.
County would be reassigned to Stanislaus County.
There were towns springing up along the four rivers on the valley
The bill was sent to the Assembly Committee on Counties
floor, wanting to be recognized, wanting more commerce, and their
and Boundaries with these members: E.O.F. Hastings of Sutter;
bevy of ambitious men itching for political importance. The cattle William S. Letcher of Santa Clara; B.D. Horr of Tuolumne; Pedro C.
trails had become roads coursing their way towards the gold fields, Carillo of Santa Barbara; and Martin Rowdan of Calaveras. On
crossing the rivers at ferry boat points. It was a period of frontier March 16, 1854, the Assembly passed the bill with some alteration
activity not unlike American frontier life elsewhere. And there were and sent it to the Senate.
issues concerning the creation of a new county. Was a new county
The Senate also amended the bill, striking the request for
justifiable or even needed? Those residents of Tuolumne County
a new senatorial district, a crippling blow to Broderick. The Senate
on the valley’s floor thought so, being represented by Assemblyman
passed the legislation on March 27th. Once the Assembly agreed to
B.D. Horr, a “doctor-lawyer,” and his political cohort, a former New
the amendment, it was sent to Governor John Bigler, who signed it
York City politician, David C. Broderick, both men of ambition.
on April 1st.
Broderick’s goal in life was to be a U.S. senator. In the
The new law as amended provided for two assemblymen
East, he was associated with the Tammany Hall political apparatus and Tuolumne County would share a state senator in the 7th
and was a member of the New York City Fire Department, another
Senatorial District; consequently, Broderick’s bill appointing a U.S.
political stronghold. He lost a bid for the U.S. Senate, and in anger, senator a year early, lost by one vote in the State Senate. (He was
he departed the Eastern Seaboard and headed west to San eventually appointed to serve as a U.S. senator in 1857, but he met
Political Strategy
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Stanislaus Historical Quarterly
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death in a duel with California Supreme Court Chief Justice David
Terry, a political nemesis, in 1865.) Thus, Broderick lost the U.S.
Senate seat, but Stanislaus County was born.
Some felt that the new county might fail because of lack of
population and inadequate finance. The Stockton Times commented
on both the formation of Stanislaus and Merced counties:
“The legislation will receive the strength of their counties provided
that they could be convinced that the number of inhabitants in the
territory set off is sufficient for that purpose. Both these counties
(Stanislaus and Merced) may be set off for the convenience of the
people, but it may not be pecuniary profitable at the present time.
However, the people are presumed to know what they want.”
The new law established Stanislaus County’s boundaries:
“Commencing on the Stanislaus at the corner of San Joaquin and
Calaveras counties; thence running in a southwest course to Spark’s
Ferry on the Tuolumne River; thence to the boundary line between
Tuolumne and Mariposa counties; thence west along said line to
the west direction to the summit of the Coast Range; thence in a
southwesterly direction following the summit of said range; thence
to the southwest corner of San Joaquin County; thence
northeasterly along the line of said county to the place of
beginning.”
New County Government
Winter 2013
in H.W. Wallis as County Judge, with Wallis performing his duties
the next day by swearing in the other county officials. He would
head the Court of Sessions, a body with duties similar to a board of
supervisors. The first meeting of the Court of Sessions was held on
July 3, 1854, in the outof-doors
near
Adamsville, under a
large oak tree. The
court’s membership
consisted of Wallis,
who presided, and Eli
S. Marvin, Associate
Judge, with James
Burney being added
later as another
associate judge. The
first matter of
business was the
establishment of a
public road. The first
financial decision was
the paying of $119 for
H.W. Wallis, Stanislaus County’s first
stationery supplied by
County Judge for the Court of Sesthe business of
sions, changed to Board of Supervisors
LeCount & Strong.
in 1855
Branch illus.
What follows
are the transcribed minutes from the meetings of 1854 Court of
Sessions carrying out the business of the infant Stanislaus County.
It provides one with insight into the needs of a new county and life
during that early period.
A County Board of Commissioners was appointed under
the law, with the following membership: G.D. Dickinson, Richard
Hammer, John W. Laird, Eli S. Marvin, G.D. and John D. Patterson.
The board met on May 29, 1854 at Dickinson’s Ferry , establishing
election precincts and appointing election inspectors and judges
for an election to be held on Saturday, June 10th. The precincts
Court of Sessions’ Minutes
were: Arroyo, Burneyville, Empire City, French Bar (La Grange),
Graysonville, Hill’s Ferry, Keeler’s Ferry, McHenry’s, Oatvale 1. July 3, 1854 Minutes:
[Oakdale], Orestimba, Tuolumne City, and Turner’s Ferry.
As made and provided by the Statutes of California, there
The number of ballots cast was 495. Adamsville was was a Special Call of the Court of Sessions of Stanislaus County,
selected as the county seat (a town
which met at Adamsville this 3d day July
founded during the winter of 1849-50
AD 1854. Present: H.W. Wallis Judge
on the property of Dr. Adams). Winners
and Robt McGarvey, Clerk.
of the election were: H.W. Wallis,
The several Justices of said
County Judge; William D. Kirk, Sheriff;
County being present proceed to the
R. McGarvey, Clerk; W.H. Martin,
Election of Associates, Which resulted
Treasurer; S.P. Scaniker, Attorney; E.B.
in the Election of James Burney and Eli
Beard, Assessor and Superintendent of
S. Marvin as Associate Judges of
Schools; Silas Wilcox, Surveyor; Heath
Stanislaus County. The Associate
Williams, Coroner; R. McGarvey,
Judges qualified and took their seats,
Recorder and Auditor; and J.J. Royal,
and Court proceeded to business.
Public Administrator.
Petition of John G. Marvin for
Wallis won by two votes
a road from Hills Ferry via Empire City
whereby his opponent, Thomas
Courthouse at Adamsville in 1854, the first county to some point on the Stanislaus River
Leggett, challenged the vote stating
was, by order of the Court, laid over.
seat for Stanislaus County
Branch illus.
that Wallis had been elected illegally.
Petition of Mr. Keeler for renewal of
The case was heard by District Court Judge Charles M. Creanor of Ferry License – laid over. Account of Le Count & Strong for
Stockton. Wallis was represented by state Whig Party leader, Henry Stationery approved for $109.25
A. Crabb, and Leggett by John G. Marvin. Leggett lost the case.
On Motion it was ordered that this County be divided into
The Board of Commissioners met at Empire City on June Townships to be named and bounded as follows to wit:
15, 1854 and declared the vote official. The board’s president swore
“Burney Township”
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Boundaries:
Beginning at the North East Corner of Stanislaus County,
running thence along the dividing line of Stanislaus and Tuolumne
a distance of one mile thence in a south west course to and including
Hartman’s Rancho, thence in a direct line to the San Joaquin River
three miles above the mouth of the Stanislaus River, thence down
the San Joaquin to the mouth of the Stanislaus River, thence up
Stanislaus to place of beginning.
“Oakvale Township”
[Oakvale was used not Oakdale]
Boundaries:
Beginning at the South East corner of Burney Township
running thence along the line separating Stanislaus from Tuolumne
County to the Tuolumne River, thence in a North West course to
Hartman’s Rancho, thence along the Southern boundary of Burney
Township to the place of beginning.
“Branch Township”
Boundaries:
Beginning at the South East corner of Oakvale Township
running along South line of said Township to the place known as
Geo. “Hartman’s Ranch,” thence in a direct line to the Northern
boundary of Mariposa County crossing, the Tuolumne River at
and including Bond’s Ranch, thence along the Mariposa line to the
Tuolumne County line, thence along said line to a place of beginning.
“Marvin Township”
Boundaries:
Beginning at Hartman’s Ranch running thence along the
southern line of Burney Township to the San Joaquin, thence up
the San Joaquin, thence up the San Joaquin to the Mariposa line,
thence along said Mariposa line to the South Western corner of
Branch Township, thence along the Western line of and Township
to the place of beginning.
“Oris Timbo Township”
[Orestimba was the correct spelling]
Boundaries:
Beginning at the Junction of the “Arroyo Puerto,” with
the San Joaquin River, running thence in a due West direction to
the summit of the “Coast Range,” thence along the summit of said
range to the Mariposa line (South West corner of Stanislaus
County), thence East along the line seperating Stanislaus and
Mariposa Counties to the mouth of the Merced River, thence down
the San Joaquin to the place of beginning.
“Grayson Township”
Boundaries:
Beginning at the North West Corner of Oris Timbo
Township running thence down the San Joaquin River to the San
Joaquin County line, thence West along said line to the summit of
the “Coast Range,” thence along said range to the North West
corner of Oris Timbo Township, thence along the Northern line of
said Township to the place of beginning.
On Motion it was ordered by the Court that John W. Laird
and James D. Sigler be appointed Judges of the plains for this
County for the year from sixth of next September.
Court adjourned to meet tomorrow at 10, O’clk A M.
Approved, H. W. Wallis, County Judge
2. July 4, 1854 Minutes:
Winter 2013
Tuesday July 4th 1854
Pursuant to adjournment the Court was called, and
adjourned to meet at 10, O’ clk tomorrow.
Approved, H.W. Wallis, County Judge
Wednesday July 5th 1854
Pursuant to adjournment the Court met, approved the
Minutes of 3d and 4th, and adjournment to meet at Two O’clk P.M.
H.W. Wallis Judge, E S Marvin Associate and R. McGarvey
Clerk
Pursuant to the adjournment the Court met. [Present:] H.
W. Wallis Judge and Eli S. Marvin Associate, McGarvey, Clerk.
Account of R.M. McGarvey approved for $32,25 cts, being
traveling expenses to San Francisco for stationery for the County.
On application of John G. Marvin he was allowed to withdraw his
petition for a road from Hill’s Ferry via Empire City to some point on
the Stanislaus,
Court adjourned to Meet at 10, O’clk tomorrow
Approved, H.W. Wallis, County Judge - E.S. Marvin, July 7th 1854
Thursday July 6th 1854
In the absence of Judge, Clerk adjourned Court to [meet]
10 O’clk tomorrow.
Friday 7th July 1854
Pursuant to the adjournment Court of Sessions met.
[Present:] H.W. Wallis Judge, Eli S. Marvin Associate, R McGarvey
Clerk. Minutes of 5th & 6th read and approved.
Court Ordered that S.C.[Stanislaus County] thus “SC” be
used as the Judicial Brand of thisCounty for the sale of Cattle on
Execution.
Court Ordered the following Gentlemen appointed
supervisors of these several Townships each Township constituting
a Road District:
Burney District D.B. Gardner
Oakvale F. Sotcher
Branch
Gallant D. Dickerson
Marvin
John G. Marvin
Oris Timbo John M. Newsom
Grayson W. Van Benschoten
Also Ordered the attention of the several supervisors be
called to an act concerning Roads and Highways passed 1850, also
the act passed 1853.
Court adjourned to meet at 2 O’clk P.M.
Pursuant to adjournment Court met.
[Present:] H.W. Wallis Judge, Eli S. Marvin Associate, Robt
McGarvey Clerk
Ordered by the Court that the Sheriff proceed instantly to
collect such Licenses, as the Revenue Act of 1854 makes his duty
to Collect.
Court ordered, and directed the Clerk to procure such seals
at the expense of the County as the several Courts may require,
devised as follows, viz: For County Court, usual devise, with Coast
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Range in backgrounds, and a man lassoing cow; Court of Sessions,
usual devise, Coast Range in backgrounds, and a grizzly bear;
Probate Court usual devise with an elk; District Court usual devise,
with Coast Range in backgrounds, and man and colt; also to procure
at the expense of the County a suitable press.
On motion it was ordered by the Court that the Sheriff
notify the several ferrymen of this County running without License
to be and appear at the Regular Term of the Court to be held in Aug.
next, and show cause if any; why such License are not procured.
Court adjourned to meet at 10 O’clk tomorrow.
H.W. Wallis C.J.
E.S. Marvin Assoc.
Saturday, July 8th 1854
Pursuant to adjournment the Court met. [Present:] H.W.
Wallis Judge, Eli S. Marvin Associate, and Robt McGarvey Clerk
Minutes of last meeting read and approved. Court
adjourned to meet at 2 O’clk P.M. Court met pursuant to adjournment
and adjourned to meet the regular term August next.
H. W. Marvin C.J.
E.S. Marvin Assoc.
7. August 7, 1854 Minutes:
Pursuant to adjournment the Court of Sessions of
Stanislaus County met at Adamsville Monday 11 O’clk August the
7th AD 1854. Present: H.W. Wallis Judge, Elli S. Marvin and James
Burney Associates, R. McGarvey, Clerk.
On the motion Court adjourned to meet at 2 O’clk P.M.
Court met pursuant adjournment. Present: Wallis Judge,
Marvin and Burney Associates
Court directed an Order to be issued to the Sheriff
requiring him to summon thirty-six persons from the citizens of the
County to appear on Wednesday the 9th inst. To serve as Grand
Jurors in and for this County.
On application of William G. Turner of the County of
Stanislaus for a License to run a Ferry Boat upon the San Joaquin
River at a place known as Turner’s Ferry on said River, it is ordered
and determined by the Court of Sessions, that a License be granted
to the said Wm. G. Turner to run said Ferry, as prayed for his said
petition, upon the payment of $60 into the Treasury, for the term of
six months from the 15th day of June last past.
It is hereby Ordered by the Court that the several Ferry
men on the San Joaquin River, be allowed to collect and receive
ferriage for the transportation of travelers, property and affect over
the said river after the following rates to wit: Buggy One Dollar and
Fifty Cents, Two Horse Wagon the same, all Wagons of larger size
Two Dollars, Cattle Twenty-five Cents per head, Mules and loose
Horses each Twenty- five Cents a piece, Sheep and Hogs Ten Cents
per head, and that they shall not take or require any greater sum for
any such transportation.
On Motion the Report of the surveyor, On summarizing
the dividing line between this and Tuolumne County was laid over.
Ordered that Three Hundred Dollars be paid on the Account of S.
Wilcox, for Six Hundred Dollars and the account remain on file for
further consideration.
R. McGarvey’s account for 21.31 Cents – Approved – Ada
A. Carter’s Account for Forty Dollars and Twenty-five Cents –
Winter 2013
Approved for Thirty Two Dollars
On application of Geo. W. Keeler of Stanislaus County, by
S.P. Scaniker, his Atty, for a renewal of his Ferry License to run a
Boat on the Stanislaus River at a place known on said river as
Keeler’s Ferry, it is Ordered and determined by the Court that upon
the payment into the treasury of Two Hundred and Twenty-Five
Dollars, and filing with the Auditor a Bond in the penal sum of Five
Thousand Dollars the Auditor issue to said Keeler a License to run
a Ferry as prayed for from one year from the first day of July last
past, and he is Authorized to collect the same ferriage now charged
at said Ferry
On application of Jas. J. Dickinson and Wm. L. Dickinson
of the County of Stanislaus by S. P. Scaniker their Atty, for a License
to run a Ferry upon the Tuolumne River at a place known on said
river as Dickinson’s Ferry.
It is hereby Ordered by the Court of Sessions of Stanislaus
that upon the payment into the Treasury of this County, of $225
and the filing with the County, Auditor of said County, a Bond
payable to this State for Five Thousand Dollars lawful money, that
a License be issued to said applicants to run a Ferry as prayed for,
for one year from the 15th day of June last past, said Dickinsons to
charge the rates now charged at said Ferry.
On Application of Jess Hill of Stanislaus County to run a
Ferry at a place on the San Joaquin River known as Hill’s Ferry on
said river. It is hereby Ordered by the Court of Sessions of said
County, that upon the filing a Bond with the Auditor for Five
Thousand Dollars, and presentation of the Treasurer’s Receipt for
$90 the Auditor issue to said Hill a License to run a Ferry as prayed
for until the 13th day of March AD 1854. On Motion the accounts of
Benj. Ward, F.H. Ayers, William Hammack, and Edward Young
were rejected.
On Motion adjourned to meet at 9 O’clk tomorrow.
H.W. Wallis C.J. E J Marvin A.J. James Burney, A.J.
Aug 8th AD 1854
Written by Robert LeRoy Santos
Stanislaus Historical Quarterly is published four times a
year, featuring freshly researched articles on Stanislaus
County history. Currently, there is no charge per subscription or individual issues, but readers must notify the editor
to be placed on the mailing list. Ideas for articles or historical
information concerning topics of county history may be sent
to the editor. This is a non-profit educational publication.
Stanislaus Historical Quarterly is edited, copyrighted, and
published by Robert LeRoy Santos, Alley-Cass Publications,
Tel: 209.634.8218. Email: [email protected]. Ellen Ruth
Wine Santos is assistant editor and proofreader.
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Chronology of Stanislaus
County History Through 1912
P
re-European. In the area to be known as Stanislaus
County, lived the Yokuts on the San Joaquin Valley plain and the
Miwoks at the county’s eastern boundary in the Sierra foothills.
October 1776. Spanish military officer Jose Joaquin
Moraga traveled east from San Francisco and entered the San
Joaquin Valley, exploring for three days, writing this description: “a
great treeless, level plain, where no water was in evidence, while
overhead the rays of the sun made themselves uncomfortably felt.”
It is not known if he entered the Stanislaus County area or not.
October 1806. Spanish Military officer Gabriel Moraga
(son of Jose Joaquin Moraga) explored the inland region of central
California and is considered the first European to explore the area
to be known as Stanislaus County. He named the Stanislaus River
“Rio de Nuestra Senora Guadalupe.” Gabriel Moraga returned in
1808 and again in 1810, to explore the inland area further.
May 1829.
Two battles took place along the
Stanislaus River between Mexican soldiers, led by M.G. Vallejo, and
native people, led by ex-San Jose Mission Indian, Estanislao.
Estanislao was given his name by the mission padres in honor of
Polish saint, St. Stanislaw. The probable battle sites were between
today’s Oakdale and Riverbank.
Winter 1826-1827. American trapper, Jedediah Smith,
with 15-20 men, traveled through the area to be known as Stanislaus
County.
1829-1830. American trapper, Ewing Young, along with
20-year old Kit Carson, traveled through the area to be known as
Stanislaus County.
1833. American trapper, Joseph Walker, traveled through
the area to be known as Stanislaus County, with an expedition of 60
men who were sent by U.S. Captain Bonneville from the Great Salt
Lake area.
1843. The first settlements, in the area later to be known
as Stanislaus County, were in the form of Mexican land grants. In
November 1843, Mexican Governor Micheltorena granted land to
Valentin Higuera and Rafael Feliz, which became known as Rancho
El Pescadero, having 34,446 acres, located west of the San Joaquin
River, bordering San Joaquin County. In December 1843, the
governor granted land to Francisco Rica and Jose Castro, which
became known as Rancheria del Rio Estanislao, having 48,887 acres,
located north of Stanislaus River, bordering Tuolumne County.
1844. Two additional land grants were sanctioned by the
Mexican governor. In January 1844, the governor granted land to
Mariano Hernandez, which became known as Rancho del Puerto,
having 13,340 acres, located west of the San Joaquin River and
south of Rancho Pescadero. In February 1844, the Mexican governor
granted land to Sebastian Nunez, which became known as Rancho
Orestimba, having 26,666, located west of the San Joaquin River
and south of Rancho Pescadero.
March 27 - April 1, 1844. Captain John C. Fremont
explored the region to be known as Stanislaus County, while on a
mapping expedition for the U.S. Government. He wrote, “We came
suddenly upon the Stanislaus River and hoped to find a ford, but
the river was flowing by dark, deep, and swift, swollen by the
mountain snows.” Fremont traveled through the region again in
1846 on his second expedition.
June 13, 1846. Mexican Governor Pio Pico granted land
to Alfias Basilia Thompson, which would become known as
Thompson’s Eight Square Leagues or Thompson Rancho Land
Grant or Thompson’s Ranch, having 35,570 acres, located west of
Rancheria del Rio Estanislao. It overlapped both sides of the
Stanislaus River to include today’s Oakdale, Riverbank, Valley
Home, and Woodrow Reservoir. A legal problem arose since Pico
granted the land to Thompson a month after the United States
declared war on Mexico, but prominent Americans in California
testified that Thompson had accepted the land in good faith and
hence retained title. The Land Commission fixed the date of July 7,
1846 as the end of Mexican authority in California, which meant
Thompson’s claim was legal having been granted the land nearly a
month before Mexican authority had ceased.
1847. Sam Brannan brought 20 Mormon settlers to an
80-acre site in today’s San Joaquin County, 1½ miles northeast
of the junction of the Stanislaus and San Joaquin rivers. The
settlement was named New Hope, with settlers planting wheat
on both sides of the Stanislaus River, which included future
Stanislaus County. Mormon President Brigham Young disagreed
with Brannan that Mormons should settle at New Hope instead
of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. New Hope was abandoned in
the fall of 1847, with the settlers traveling to Utah or remaining in
California when gold was discovered the next year.
1849. Grayson or Graysonville was founded by a company
of seven men, which included John Westley Van Benscroten and
Andrew Jackson Grayson. It was located on the west bank of the
San Joaquin River near the mouth of the Stanislaus River. The
town was named for Grayson because he was the oldest member of
the company. Grayson was a native of Louisiana, active in the
Mexican War of 1846, and an authority on Pacific Coast birds. Van
Benscroten was a native of New York City and came to California
with Captain Fremont in 1846.
Paxton McDowell and Major R.D. Hammond founded
Tuolumne City, which was located five miles upstream from the
San Joaquin River and on the north bank of the Tuolumne River.
Dr. Adams founded the town of Adamsville, on the south bank
of the Tuolumne River, three miles above Tuolumne City. Either
Benson, Byers or Townsend founded the town of Crescent City,
on the north bank of the Tuolumne River, near the site of present
day Modesto. The Stanislaus River town of Knights Ferry was
founded on the north bank by trapper and hunter William
Knight. Knight had been with Fremont’s expedition and felt the
site perfect for a ferry crossing. The first county bridge was
located at Knights Ferry, which washed away during 1862 flood
but rebuilt.
Early 1850s. There were many settlements and river ferries
located along the three rivers in the Stanislaus County. Hillgard
and Burman Ferry occupied a site west of Salida on the Stanislaus
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Winter 2013
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River, with Murphy’s Ferry being further upstream. Major Burney’s
Burneyville Ferry was at present day Riverbank where the current
bridge stands. Further up the river at Lover’s Leap stood Keeler’s
Ferry and further up was Knights Ferry. On the Tuolumne River,
beginning near the junction with the San Joaquin River to the
Tuolumne County line were the following ferries and settlements:
Tuolumne City, Paradise City, Adamsville, Westport Landing,
Whitmore Ferry (Modesto), Empire City, Baker’s Ferry (Waterford),
Dickinson’s Ferry (Robert’s Ferry), and La Grange. On the San
Joaquin River, beginning at the Merced County line were the ferries:
Hill’s Ferry, Blair’s Ferry, Russell’s Ferry, Ward’s Ferry, and Turner’s
Ferry.
1850. John S. Marvin, a lawyer from Boston, founded the
river town of Empire City, on the south bank of the Tuolumne River,
where the Santa Fe Railroad bridge is today. Hill’s Ferry began
operation just north of the junction of the Merced and San Joaquin
rivers, on Rancho Orestimba.
May 1850. The side-wheel steamboat, Georgiana, was
the first steamboat to enter what would be Stanislaus County. It
traveled to Grayson and Tuolumne City.
September 9, 1850. California was admitted as a state to
the U.S. and was divided into 29 counties. Stanislaus County was
part of Tuolumne County until 1854.
January 16, 1851. The first marriage took place in what
would be Stanislaus County, when N.W. Wells married Fanny
Grunell. Rev. James Woods from the First Presbyterian Church in
Stockton performed the marriage ceremony.
1852. French Bar or La Grange was founded. Elam Dye
located his rancho along the Tuolumne River, which would be the
site of booming town of La Grange. About the same time, French
miners struck gold on a bar in the river (French Bar), which drew
more miners, and by 1854 there were over hundred buildings in the
new town of La Grange.
1854. The county’s first public school opened in the
community of Newsom’s Bridge on Orestimba Creek.
April 1, 1854. California Governor Bigler signed into law
the establishment of Stanislaus County, which was formed from
Tuolumne County, having a population of less than a thousand
residents.
June 10, 1854. The first county election was held, with
Adamsville bein selected as the county seat by thirty votes over
Empire City. Adamsville was founded in 1849 by the county’s first
practicing physician, Dr. David Adams, having a hotel, ferry and a
few residences. H.W. Wallis was elected County Judge; William D.
Kirk for County Sheriff; Robert McGarvey for Clerk and Recorder;
and S.P. Scaniker for District Attorney.
July 3, 1854. The first meeting of the County Court of
Sessions (Board of Supervisors) was held under an oak tree with
these members in attendance: County Judge H.W. Wallis, Major
James Burney and Eli S. Marvin.
August 7, 1854. The first murder was recorded in the
county, which occurred at Adamsville. It was a gun duel between
ex-sheriff of Tuolumne County, George Worth, and Eli Lyons in
which Worth was fatally wounded. The dispute arose over the
June election in which H.W. Wallis was elected County Judge.
October 21, 1854. An election was held, which moved
Winter 2013
the county seat from Adamsville to Empire City, by a margin of 29
votes. Empire City was founded in 1850 and in 1854 consisted of
over 200 residents.
May 7, 1855. The first meeting of the County Board of
Supervisors, formerly County Court of Sessions, was held at Empire
City. Members of the board were: D.B. Gardner, John Newsom, and
Robert Smith, with R. McGarvey serving as clerk.
December 20, 1855. An election was held moving the
county seat from Empire City to La Grange by a vote of 558 to 139.
La Grange was a mining town, having significantly more population
and wealth than Empire City.
1859. Settlers led by W.W. Baker founded the community
of Bakersville on the south bank of the Tuolumne River, with his
family moving shortly to the north bank. Bakersville was changed
to Waterford, because the postal system thought Bakersville too
common of a name.
September 1859. The first newspaper in the county
appeared and was called the Knights Ferry Bee, published by W.J.
Collier. It was printed every Saturday morning, being four pages
long, and selling for 25 cents a copy.
1861. The first county militia was formed at Knights Ferry
and was known as the Knights Ferry Mounted Rifle Company.
Winter 1861-1862. County rivers flooded significantly,
inundating many river settlements.
September 3, 1862. An election was held moving the
county seat from La Grange to Knights Ferry. In 1860, legislation
sponsored by State Assemblyman Minor Walden of Stanislaus
County, became law annexing Knights Ferry into Stanislaus County.
The county was suffering financially and needed a boost from
Knights Ferry, which was prosperous and center of trade to the
southern mines. A year earlier on September 4, 1861, an election
was held, but La Grange retained the county seat by a vote of 422393.
1867. John W. Mitchell, local rancher of wealth, founded
Paradise City, which was located 4 miles above Tuolumne City on
the Tuolumne River.
May 1868. Banner wheat crop. The wheat crop yielded
2,317,652 bushels with many ranches harvesting 50-70 bushels an
acre. In the next two decades, the county would produce significant
crops to be sent worldwide.
May 1869. The clearing of debris from the Stanislaus River,
beginning at Burneyville (Riverbank) to the San Joaquin River was
completed. This allowed steamboat travel up the river to Burneyville
with less danger though the Stanislaus River saw far less river
traffic than San Joaquin and Tuolumne rivers.
September 22-24, 1869. The first county fair was held at
Covert’s Hall in Tuolumne City, where needlework and other home
crafts were displayed along with samples of wheat and barley. Horse
racing was held at Miner Walden’s track, two miles west of Tuolumne
City, with Bartholomew’s Circus providing entertainment.
1870. Salida was founded as a railroad station when
construction of the Central Pacific Railroad reached that point. Salida
in Spanish means departure. The original settlement nearby was
Murphy’s Ferry on the Stanislaus River.
March 1870. California fencing law now extended through
Stanislaus County requiring cattlemen to fence in their stock, keeping
———————— 576 ————————
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———————— 577 ————————
Winter 2013
——————————————
them off the wheat ranches. There were over 18,500 cattle in the
county in 1860.
November 8, 1870. The construction of the Central Pacific
Railroad reached a station to be named after railroad director and
financier William C. Ralston, but Ralston turned down the honor,
and the station instead was named Modesto, which is Spanish for
“modest.” Merchants moved their businesses and buildings from
the towns of Paradise, Tuolumne, Empire, and Westport to Modesto,
and by February 1871, there were 75 buildings in the new railroad
town.
1871. Construction of the Central Pacific Railroad
reached a station to be named after local landowner John W.
Mitchell, which he declined and suggested naming it Turlough
(The Lake), a town in Mayo County, Ireland. The new railroad
town was then named Turlock. Valley Home and Oakdale were
founded as new stations for the Copperopolis and Visalia
Railroad. Construction had begun on a canal of the San Joaquin
and King’s River Canal and Irrigation Company to transport
irrigation water from Fresno County to the west side of the
Stanislaus County.
September 6, 1871. An election was held that moved the
county seat from Knights Ferry to Modesto. The results were: 893
votes for Modesto, 340 Knights Ferry, 79 Oakdale, 12 Waterford, 3
La Grange and 2 Graysonville. The County Board of Supervisors
officially designated Modesto as the county seat on October 15,
1871.
April 15, 1873. The first county grange was chartered
and located in Modesto. J.D. Spencer (local newspaper editor) was
elected to be the First Master.
July 14, 1873. The new county courthouse in Modesto
was opened. It was a rectangular three-story brick and stucco
building, costing $60,000.
1874. Ceres was founded as a station of the Southern
Pacific Railroad. Elma Carter, daughter of early settler Levi Carter,
selected its name. Daniel Whitmore had informally called the area
Ceres, Roman goddess of agriculture, because of the fine crops
grown there.
April 2, 1875. William Dona was executed on the county
courthouse grounds in Modesto for the saloon shooting of James
Connolly. The scaffolding was borrowed from San Joaquin County
and was surrounded by a high board fence to screen out the public,
except for certain witnesses prescribed by law.
October 6, 1875. A jackrabbit drive was organized near
Turlock in which 413 rabbits were killed. The rodent had become an
irritating nuisance to farming, because it ate grain sprouts and seed.
1877. Lack of winter rain virtually destroyed the county’s
grain crop. One writer described the condition: “In 42 miles there
was not a spear of green grass or a blade of wheat to be seen. The
isolated farmhouses presented an aspect of poverty. Many of them
are deserted, and the farmers and their families have gone to other
places to find employment. Some of the farmers, more fortunate,
have wells of water, and their farms are quite thrifty around their
dwellings.”
August 14, 1879. A group of vigilantes raided Modesto
saloons and other buildings of vice to clean up the town and institute
law and order.
Winter 2013
July 20, 1884. Fire destroyed 5,000 acres of grain near
Oakdale.
1887. The towns of Westley and Newman were founded
as stations along the newly laid tracks of the San Pablo and Tulare
Railroad. The river town of Crows Landing moved four miles west
to reside along the newly laid tracks. The residents of Hill’s Ferry
and Dutch Corners moved to the new railroad town of Newman,
named for Simon Newman, a major businessman and land owner.
Westley received its name in memory of John Westley Van
Benschoten, a butcher who came with Fremont, served in the
Mexican War of 1846 and settled in the county in 1850.
October 29, 1887. An infantry company of young men,
known as the Modesto Cadets, officially joined the state’s National
Guard.
March 1887. The Wright Act became law, which led to the
formation of the Turlock Irrigation District and Modesto Irrigation
District.
1891. The community of Claribel was founded as well as
Hickman, Montpelier and Waterford as stations along Stockton
and Visalia Railroad tracks.
1893. La Grange Dam was completed to provide irrigation
water to the county. The dam was 336 feet long and 127 feet high.
1896. The communities of Claus, Riverbank and Empire
were founded along the San Francisco & San Joaquin Valley Railroad
tracks, which soon became the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe
Railroad.
June 6, 1897. Turlock Irrigation District was formed,
followed by Modesto Irrigation District on June 9th.
1901. An annex to the county courthouse was completed,
known as the Hall of Records, costing $27,000.
1907. The communities of Hughson and Denair were
founded as stations along the Santa Fe Railroad line. Denair, formerly
Elmwood Colony, was named after landowner, John Denair. Hughson
was named after Hiram Hughson, who owned the land at one time.
July 7, 1906. A fire near Newman destroyed 2,500 acres of
grain and 20,000 acres of pasture, along with stored hay, farm
equipment and buildings.
1909. The Oakdale Irrigation District was formed, and with
its Goodwin Dam being completed on April 6, 1913.
1910. Patterson was founded.
September 12, 1911. A new 52-inmate jail, costing
$50,873, was opened in Modesto.
1912. The Modesto Arch, costing $1,200 in donations,
was erected having the slogan “Water, Wealth, Contentment,
Health.”
Prepared by Robert LeRoy Santos
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Stanislaus County: Early Years
Crescent City and Empire City
Ever wonder what Stanislaus County once looked like
before the farms, houses, businesses, manufacturers, endless
automobiles, and massive commercialism? We can dip into the
historical record and pull out descriptions, which is one of the most
telling methods. Or, we can obtain snatches of its raw composition
when traveling along the railroad tracks following a train on a hot
summer day with the dust swirling and the dried indigenous flora
stiffly swishing in the gale of wind. The evidence projects a vision
of dry and harsh plains, a vast wasteland, nearly devoid of life
during the summer. This changed in the late fall, winter, and spring
when rainfall brought flooding from the swollen tributaries, changing
the summer-dried soil to fields of wet soil, collecting pools, and
mud. During the springtime, the desert was covered with grasses
and carpeted with wildflowers, where animal life of all types lived
and birds flew in abundance.
Ever gaze at the Stanislaus, Tuolumne or San Joaquin
rivers, while crossing a bridge? There is mystique there, a whisper
of the distant past that takes one back in time. Sure, humanity has
changed the county’s environment, and that also is reflected in the
meandering streams, but there is still the wavering current, the
shadowing trees, shrubbery lazily overhanging the banks, the water
reaching for the shores, and the shallow sand bars jutting out
exhibiting their neat clean grit. And the wildlife, though tragically
reduced, appear and disappear in a moment. That is the county’s
past revealing itself, a sample of a land controlled by water.
Spanish explorer Pedro Fages described it in spring 1774:
“The plain is thickly populated, having many and large rancherias
[Indian settlements]; and it abounds in grain, deer, bears, geese,
ducks, cranes; indeed, every kind of animal, terrestrial and aerial.”
He named the river he saw the Rio de la San Francisco (St. Francis
River), which later was renamed the San Joaquin River for St.
Joachim, the father of the Virgin Mary.
Two years later in 1776, explorers Juan Bautista de Anza,
Jose Joaquin Moraga, and Father Pedro Font traveled along the
San Joaquin River and then marched three days due east, turning
around where Church and Milnes roads intersect east of Modesto.
They saw herds of tule elk and described them this way: “A large
herd of the large deer, which in New Mexico I think they call burros.
They are some seven spans (five feet) high and have antlers about
two varas (five feet) long, with several branches.”
In the year 1806, explorers Spanish Army Lt. Don Gabriel
Moraga and Father Pedro Munoz, trekked along the Stanislaus
River and then headed south between today’s Salida and Riverbank,
crossing the Tuolumne River near future Empire City, and then
traveling east of current Hughson. They originally named the
Stanislaus River, Our Lady of Guadalupe, and the Tuolumne River,
Our Lady of Dolores (Sorrows).
In March 1844, John C. Fremont explored the Stanislaus
River downstream, beginning somewhere between today’s Knights
Ferry and Oakdale. He wrote this on March 27th: “During the earlier
part of the day, our ride had been over a very level prairie, or rather
a succession of long stretches of prairie, separated by lines and
groves of oak timber, growing along dry gullies, which are filled
with water in season of rain; and, perhaps, also, by the melting
snows. Over much of this extent, the vegetation was sparse; the
surface showing plainly the action of water, which, in the season of
flood, the [San] Joaquin [River] spreads over the valley. The
California poppy, of a rich orange color, was numerous today. Elk
and several bands of antelope made their appearance. We came
suddenly upon the Stanislaus River, where we hoped to find a ford,
but the stream was flowing by, dark and deep, swollen by the
mountain snows.”
Gold Rush Era
Fremont’s description portrays an idyllic countryside, a
picture of creation, which was inviting to both American and the
indigenous population. But this land of innocent pristine nature
was soon subjected to American exploitation from raw frontier
opportunists and rich urban investors with the original attraction
being gold. California offered instant wealth to the early gold rush
adventurers, who used their newly found riches to finance gold
rush related businesses and to purchase cheap land. This was part
of the Western Movement, an American phenomenon driven by
land and business opportunities.
To access the southern gold fields of the Sierra, miners
crossed the San Joaquin Valley and its many tributaries. Ferry boat
businesses sprung up at places of opportunity, where there was a
low river bank with
linkage to the main
roads. These ferries
were not objects of
beauty, or by any
means sizeable. They
were merely small
barges, which were
pulled across the
rivers by ropes that
were anchored on
both sides of the
waterway. Travelers
paid
for
this
convenience rather
than risk crossing on
Typical San Joaquin Valley steamboat
their own. The
that traveled up the Stanislaus River to
proprietor of a ferry
Crescent City
MacMullen illus.
carried a county
license and many times spawned a small settlement to provide
travelers with overnight accommodations, restaurants, stables,
blacksmith shops and other services. Stanislaus County ferries
existed for a few months, a few years, or a decade or so, depending
upon their location to main arteries of travel, fading completely
when bridges were constructed.
Steamboats were another conveyance important to the
area and only serviceable when the water was deep enough and
obstructions cleared for travel. The first steamboats sought to locate
what was termed as the “head of navigation,” or the point on the
———————— 579 ————————
——————————————
river where steamboat travel could begin, which varied with the
season. Providing passenger service wasn’t the motivating force
behind steamboats. It was the movement of freight and the
establishment of a river depot and subsequently a town for
commercial purposes. Among many, two such depots were found
in 1849-1850 on the Tuolumne River at Crescent City and Empire
City, just east of today’s Modesto. They were in sight of each
another, with Crescent City resting on the north bank and Empire
City on the south bank, but both were doomed to early failure.
Their short history is important to the understanding of frontier
Stanislaus County in its earliest beginnings, demonstrating that
rivers have always been important to the county. Today rivers are
used for irrigation and electric, and back then, for travel.
Winter 2013
thinking that it will never be profitable to carry steam further up
than this point [Tuolumne City] and I am sure that at some seasons
of the year it is impossible to do so; for it is an enterprising attempt,
to which I say success.”
Tuolumne City was three miles from the mouth of the
Tuolumne River, where it emptied into the San Joaquin River. From
there it was 26 miles on the San Joaquin River to Stockton on a
meandering waterway. Undaunted with probable failure, Crescent
City owners posted this advertisement in the July 27, 1850 issue of
the Sonora Herald:
“Crescent City – This place has been surveyed and laid out in lots
for business purposes, at the head of navigation on the Tuolumne
River, 30 miles [14 miles in actuality] from its mouth, accessible at all
Crescent City
Edward S. Benson, John Benson and J.S. Byers founded seasons of the year for steamboats and vessels of light draft of
Crescent City either in late 1849 or early 1850. Its success was water. Several houses have been erected and arrangements made
determined by its accessibility to steamboat travel from Stockton. for a regular steam communication with San Francisco. People bound
to the southern
The steamer, Etna,
mines will find this to
left Stockton in late
be the most desirable
April 1850 to begin
point for landing
what was hoped to be
their goods, as this
routine semiweekly
town is situated on
trips to Crescent City.
the northern bank of
A Stockton Times
the Tuolumne on the
newsman was aboard
side towards Sonora,
and reported in the
Jamestown, Woods
May 4th issue:
Creek, and four-fifths
of the southern
“The Etna
mines district. Good
encountered
no
road accessible at all
difficulty in the
seasons of the year
navigation; indeed it
Map showing the location of Crescent City and Empire City
lead from this point
may be truly said that
RLS illus.
t o S o n o r a ,
between Crescent
and Tuolumne cities the river is well adapted for steamers. The time Jamestown, Hawkins Bar, Mercedes, Mariposa and Agua Frio.
was most agreeably passed, being divided in enjoying the rich Merchants who may wish to establish a trading house will be
woodland scenery and the pleasant and humorous society of Mr. accommodated with lots on the most liberal terms, and all who may
Benson, one of the proprietors of Crescent City and our enterprising wish to invest in any town on the Tuolumne are recommended
Captain, Mr. Dunbar, who earned our warmest praise for his before purchasing to make a personal examination of this place
indefatigable exertions in behalf of our comfort and our rapid transit with reference to its comparative merits as a location for a city and
to Crescent City, where towards evening we moored behind a bank its position for trade with the southern mines. For particulars apply
ascending perpendicularly upwards to the extent of about 15 feet. at this office.”
Having gained the top of the bank we were greeted with the warm
The founders of Crescent City were also unable to secure
welcome of the residents. The land, east, descends with a gentle
declivity to a lower level where a Ferry is established affording a county ferry license. How much did Crescent City develop? In the
constant operation to the inhabitants. Above the town from the 1921 publication History of Stanislaus County, author George H.
south side of the river projects a prominent gravel bar which entirely Tinkham wrote:
precludes the possibility of ascending up the river, except as at
“In the fall of 1849, Crescent City was founded on the north bank of
present, high stages of the river.”
the Tuolumne by Benson & Byers. They laid off the town one mile
Another Stockton Times reporter writing from Tuolumne square, had a lithographed map made in New York, and furnished
the real estate dealers in the cities with copies of the growing town.
City, 11 miles downstream, on May 16, 1850, claimed:
The proprietors advertised that the town was thirty miles above the
“I suppose that you are aware that the little steamer Etna’s last mouth of the Tuolumne River: “The town has been accurately
attempt to get up to Crescent City proved abortive. I cannot help surveyed and laid out and several large buildings are about to be
———————— 580 ————————
——————————————
erected.” Many lots were sold, said a visitor, but no improvements
were made, and the proposed city comprised of a long cabin covered
with canvas. The only inhabitants of the place were the proprietors
and about a dozen hunters and boatmen. Steamers tried to steam
up to the town, but failed. It was the finishing blow to Crescent
City.”
Empire City
Winter 2013
it and on the opposite side are oaks and willows on the margin,
skirted behind by a green bluff of grass and flowers, rising fifty to
seventy-five feet in a half mile. . . . I have no doubt that here will rise
a city which will be world-famous for its size an importance. So you
may remember my prediction for the town named Crescent City
[Empire City], Tuolumne River, California. . . . A Mr. Jenkins and his
wife, first settlers, were there at the commencement of the survey of
the plot and Mrs. Jenkins, being the first female in the town, drove
the first and centre stake for laying out the town. When I left, a Mr.
Flint and James Kennedy were surveying it at twelve dollars per
day and board. . . . Yesterday at 10, Sid and I crossed the river and
mounted on three good mules passed
over Dry Creek by fording and then to
the Stanislaus and ford and then down
its banks four miles to a ranch, thence a
boat here. . . . This is truly a great country
destined to be densely populated and
rich beyond calculation.
Your ever affectionate and loving
father, E.S. Townsend”
Empire City was founded a mile or so up the river from the
botched settlement of Crescent City. It was on the south bank, near
the point where today’s Santa Fe Railroad bridge crosses the
Tuolumne River. For at least a month,
there was some confusion as to Empire
City’s real name. It was called Crescent
City at first by some and then Crescent
City Secundo, but Empire City quickly
became its official name. The founders
were E.S. Townsend, Jr. and Edmund P.
Hart. Some considered John G. Marvin,
a longtime supporter of Empire City, as
being the founder. The Stockton Times
In subsequent correspondence
newsman who described Crescent City
Townsend
used only “Empire City” and
above also wrote on May 4, 1850:
makes
no
reference
to “Crescent City”
“Having spent a very merry evening
again.
He
left
California
in November 1850
with Mr. Townsend, Jr. and Mr. Hart from
for
his
New
Jersey
home,
never to return.
a rival city [Empire City] on the opposite
Hart,
the
other
founder
of
Empire City,
bank two miles higher up.” In a letter to
moved
to
Mariposa
County,
but
his invalid daughter living in Trenton,
reappeared
in
Empire
City
in
1852
to
New Jersey, Townsend switched the
operate
a
ferry.
names of the two settlements in his
A prominent figure living in
communication, demonstrating the
Above is Empire City showing one store and
early
Empire
City was 34 year-old John
confusion with its name. He wrote the
residence, located near today’s Lakewood MeGage
Marvin.
He left New York City on
letter on April 21, 1850 from San Joaquin
morial Park . The roadway in upper right would
July
7,
1849
for
California, where he was
City, located near the confluence of the
be today’s Santa Fe Road. Below is Empire City
a
Boston
lawyer
and school teacher. He
San Joaquin and Stanislaus rivers:
Ferry, near where today’s bridge is located. The
and a partner published Sonora’s first
covered wagon would be coming from Tynan’s
newspaper, with Marvin being elected in
“My Dear Isabella:
ranch, heading south across the Tuolumne River
May 1850 as a justice of the peace in
I have been up to Crescent City [Empire
by the ferry.
Branch Illus.
Tuolumne County, which included
City] and have come down here [San
Stanislaus
County
at
the
time.
In the meantime, he bought lots in
Joaquin City] in company with Sidney [his son] and Ed Hart on
Empire
City
and
held
a
ferry
license
for a Tuolumne River crossing
mules and am waiting for the boat, to return with her to San
at
the
settlement. He was elected
Francisco. . . . Crescent City
California
State Superintendent of
[Empire City] is a beautiful
Schools
and died in 1857
location right at the edge of the
prematurely
from poor health in
gold field [30 or 40 miles to the
Honolulu.
Marvin
was described
east] and in all respects as I could
as
a
“man
who
got
around,”
which
wish it to be. Very many of those
was
obvious
considering
his
who bought lots have been there
considerable
exploits
and
his
early
invariably, without a single
demise.
exception, all are pleased and
Winter and spring
many have bargained for more
flooding
was the enemy of valley
lots. The town is at the head of
settlements.
The flood of 1852
navigation. A rocky bar crosses
wiped
out
Empire
City, but it was
the river at the upper end of the
rebuilt
in
1853
by
Marvin
and
his
brother
Eli,
who
was a man of
town plot. . . . The site of the city is a beautiful plain dotted with
wealth.
Eli’s
wife,
Elizabeth,
and
adopted
daughter
resided
in Empire
oaks, rising in a mile forty feet gentle ascent. The river winds around
———————— 581 ————————
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Winter 2013
City with him. He purchased the ferry from his brother for $2,000 investment. In the 1892 publication, A Memorial and Biographical
and built a hotel of pre-cut materials that had been shipped around History of the Counties of Merced, Stanislaus, Calaveras, Tuolumne
the horn. It was named “Traveler’s Rest” and became a local and Mariposa California, this appeared in part about him:
attraction. Tinkham records that in the winter of 1854, “The place
[Empire City] is being rapidly built up and there is a great demand “He retired from active [medical] practice fifteen years ago, but is
for carpenters and other mechanics. Mr. Ziegler has opened a store still engaged in grain growing and stock ranching. His property is
on Main Street. The [Stanislaus County] courthouse, a fine and located on the Tuolumne River in Stanislaus County. He cultivates
capacious building, and eight other buildings have been erected. A from 2,500 to 3,000 acres, principally in grain. He also owns a valuable
few weeks ago not a drop of alcohol could be found in the place but residence and business property in Modesto, among which is a
handsome three-story brick edifice [Tynan Hotel] on H and Tenth
now whiskey shops are everywhere”
Eli Marvin was a politician, becoming a member of the streets. This magnificent block was completed in 1890.”
commission that would carve Stanislaus County from Tuolumne
In 1862, Dr. Tynan married Eli Marvin’s widow, Elizabeth.
County. He also was elected Stanislaus County Associate Justice
for the first Court of Sessions [Board of Supervisors]. Once At that time Dr. Tynan lived on his ranch across the river from
Stanislaus County was created, the Marvin brothers embarked on a Empire City. He was practicing medicine and had 600 acres of
ranchland. Another flood, this one in
mission to bring the county seat to
1862, demolished Empire City, requiring
Empire City. In the first county election,
Elizabeth and Dr. Tynan to rebuild their
held June 10, 1854, Adamsville was
residence there. For the next few years,
selected over Empire City. The brothers
until Elizabeth’s death in 1881, the two
then offered to build a new courthouse
amassed 3,300 acres of land. Her
if the county seat was moved to Empire
daughters maintained grudgingly that
City. They promised a $10,000 bond for
Dr. Tynan had married their mother
the construction of the new building.
originally for her wealth. They felt that
County voters were persuaded, voting
they should inherit her estate and
to relocate the county seat at Empire
contested the matter in court. The judge
City in the October 21, 1854 election.
ruled against their claim, awarding the
But ultimately, the courthouse was not
full estate to Dr. Tynan.Through
constructed, with the Court of Sessions
investments, Dr. Tynan built his assets
meeting in a rustic building not much
to $160,000 by 1893. The Tynan Hotel
larger than the one found at the first
in Modesto was his showcase and
county seat of Adamsville. The move
considered equal to any hotel in San
to Empire City was short lived, because
Tynan Hotel on I Street in Modesto, built for
Francisco.
the voters relocated the county seat in
$20,000 in 1890 by Dr. Tynan. Later its name
In 1888, the widower Dr. Tynan
La Grange in the December 20, 1855
was changed to the State Hotel Maino photo
married a much younger woman, Julia
election. As noted earlier, John G.
Marvin died in 1857, and now Eli joined him in death in 1860. Eli’s Mary Winters, receiving his step-daughters’ immediate disapproval.
wife Elizabeth and two daughters, continued to operate the family Apparently, financial difficulties and stressful family circumstances
began to get the better of him. In 1892, he wrote a note to his wife
properties in Empire City.
that he would return in a couple of days, drew out $5,000 from his
bank account, telling the clerk that it was for improvements on his
Dr. Thomas E. Tynan
On April 17, 1850, John Marvin filed a claim for land property, and disappeared. Shortly, because of his wealth, his young
diagonally across the river, on the north bank. Edward Conway, wife and his step-daughters wanted the court to proclaim him dead,
who was the surveyor of Crescent City and first postmaster of with his wife informing the court that her husband had enemies and
Empire City, also filed a claim that overlapped with Marvin’s. They someone had killed him. The court agreed and pronounced him
settled their conflict and became business partners in a hay dead.
Before disappearing, Dr. Tynan drew up a will granting his
business. Conway eventually established a clear claim to the land
wife
his
entire estate. The step-daughters challenged it and won
and sold it to William D. Kirk who then resold the land to Dr. Thomas
three-fifths
of estate, only to lose it when Mrs. Tynan took the
E. Tynan in 1853. Dr. Tynan had a fascinating life.
matter
to
the
California State Supreme Court where she was declared
He was a native of New York City, who attended school in
sole
inheritor.
Things did not end there in this convoluted twist of
Ohio and received a medical degree from Center College in Danville,
events.
In
1894,
Dr. Tynan was found in Boston working as a
Kentucky in 1848. Serving as the ship’s surgeon on the Mary Anna,
spiritualist.
He
confirmed
that he had been driven away by family
he arrived in San Francisco in May 1850. For a time he was a miner
matters,
but
he
returned
to Stanislaus County, upon which he
in Calaveras and Tuolumne counties, coming to what soon would
immediately
had
the
court
proclaim him “undead,” so he could
be Stanislaus County in 1852. He practiced medicine from Pacheco
continue
with
his
financial
affairs.
He died a second and final time
Pass to La Grange until 1877, when he became a fulltime rancher,
in
1898
at
the
age
of
80.
Written
by Robert LeRoy Santos
now devoting all of his effort towards his growing ranching
———————— 582 ————————
Hill’s Ferry
Frontier Settlement and Crossroads
J
ust north of the confluence of the Merced and San Joaquin
rivers once stood the pioneer settlement of Hill’s Ferry. At one time
it was a major stop for steamboats and had the largest population in
Stanislaus County. Its origination was the Gold Rush, when miners
needed to travel quickly to the southern gold fields. To get there
they needed to cross the San Joaquin Valley’s rivers that were wild
and treacherous, unfettered by today’s dams. A natural crossing
was the Hill’s Ferry location for miners exiting Pacheco Pass from
the coast.
Ferryboat Crossing
On June 14, 1862, Hill’s Ferry license was renewed under
the name of William Wilson and his son, Richard M. Wilson. Later
on the Wilsons fell in disfavor with the county by not renewing
their license and were indicted on March 8, 1865 by a grand jury. On
May 23rd, they paid $108.33 to the county in fees. (The Wilson
family came to California from Michigan by way of the Isthmus of
Panama, arriving in San Francisco on April 21, 1857. They eventually
owned three ranches in the area, consisting of wheat, orchards,
alfalfa, and livestock, primarily sheep.) Records have Charles
Hubner, wagon maker, operating Hill’s Ferry ferryboat in 1873, but
the Wilsons were once again carrying the license in 1874. From
1874 to 1878, the license was under the names of H.F. Blackwell and
John Harns.
Stockton Judge D.D. Dickerson saw the importance of
having a crossing on the San Joaquin River, and in 1849, he sent a
boat of explorers upstream to locate a proper site for a ferryboat.
Wheat Fields and Steamboats
Records indicate that a Mr. Thompson was operating a ferry at the
After
the Gold Rush subsided, many miners turned to
Hill’s Ferry site in 1850. He could have had connections with
agriculture
and
in
particular to wheat farming in the northern part of
Dickerson or may have been on his own; sources aren’t clear on
the
San
Joaquin
Valley.
The crossroads of Hill’s Ferry now became
this. Valley ferryboats were small wooden barges, 25 feet or so in
a
stop
for
riverboats
and
barges plying the San Joaquin River from
length, having sideboards, with ramps on both ends, and were
Stockton to Herdon. The
pulled across rivers by
first steamer that reached
ropes and pulleys.
Hill’s Ferry was the small
A
traveler
sternwheeler Christiana.
reported on March 15,
Hill’s Ferry was well over
1850 that a Captain Hardy
50 river miles from
operated a whaleboat
Stockton, because of the
service at the Hill’s Ferry
meandering turns. It could
site, rowing passengers
take a few days at 3 mph,
across the river in his
to travel upstream from
vessel. Because of the
Stockton to Hill’s Ferry.
rush to the gold fields that
There were stops along
spring,
any
extra
the way, while the
conveyance was utilized.
traveling was done during
He could have been a
the day. Lumber, farm
partner with Thompson,
Hill’s Ferry in 1865, with the Kahn Brothers store on the left and in the
equipment, and groceries
but
there
is
no
background a steamboat docked on the San Joaquin River SSS photo
were the usual freight
documentation
to
transported
to
Hill’s
Ferry,
while
wood,
grain,
hides, hay, and some
substantiate it. In 1852, Jesse Hill and John de Hart, who were
livestock
were
loaded
for
the
return
trip.
traveling through the area hunting geese, came across the ferry
Hill’s Ferry became a major shipping point in the wheatand purchased it on the spot. Hill became sole owner shortly
growing
region and the last viable southern terminus on the San
afterward when de Hart sold him his half. Hill constructed a hotel,
Joaquin
River.
It outranked other San Joaquin River landings in
store, and warehouse on the west bank. The settlement became
volume
of
grain
shipped. More than 25,000 tons of sacked grain
known from then on as Hill’s Ferry, with Hill operating the ferry for
was
shipped
from
Hill’s Ferry during peak years of the 1870s. From
the next decade, paying the county $50 a year for operating licenses.
April
to
July,
the
water was high and the riverboats and barges
Hill was 31 years-old in 1852, having come to California from Virginia
could
easily
transport
grain to Stockton and to Port Costa. The
by way of Fort Smith, Arkansas.
farmers rushed to get their grain to Hill’s Ferry for shipment, or risk
paying the storage costs at the local warehouses, or pay the
Ferry Ownership and Licensing
There were a number of early ferry businesses along the expensive overland freight. Many times during the spring runoff,
rivers. Some were temporary, while others became more established Hill’s Ferry was flooded, being near the confluence of two major
if they were on main roads. A county license was required and a rivers. One year an eyewitness saw a steamboat docked at the
bond posted for liability. Ownership and license holders varied second floor of the Hill’s Ferry Hotel rescuing stranded residents.
The drought of 1871-72 hampered the shipping business,
continuously, with the names of ferries being a mass of confusion.
———————— 583 ————————
——————————————
Winter 2013
because the river was too low for steamboat traffic. Crops were maker Charles Hubner, except for lots that had been already
short that harvest season, but still there was a respectable yield. purchased by others. On February 16, 1861, Jesse and Harriett Hill
Simon Newman and the Kahn brothers owned warehouses at Hill’s mortgaged their ferryboat assets for $2,000. The mortgage was paid
Ferry, where 10,000 tons of grain were stored for later shipment. off in May 1862, because William and Richard Wilson purchased
The inability to ship
the ferry. Hill owned
their harvest caused
individual
lots
farmers to look to the
according to a few
railroad for a reliable
sources, selling some
source of conveyance
of the lots in 1862 to
and cheaper costs.
William “Pap” Wilson,
The
San
father of William and
Joaquin River was once
Richard Wilson. Pap
a mighty river, but the
Wilson built and
use of river water for
operated a Hill’s Ferry
hydraulic mining held
store and hotel. Hill
water back and then the
traded the rest of his
riverbed became silted
Hill’s Ferry lots to
and
debris-filled
Hubner, who erected a
because of mining
warehouse and built
operations. Dams for
houses and stores for
irrigation at the turn-ofinterested buyers or
the-century placed
Lithograph showing Hill’s Ferry settlement in 1880. The far left captures the
tenants.
more controls on the
joining of the San Joaquin and Merced rivers. The docks are above the steamHill’s Ferry
water level. The river
boat. The lower right features the ferryboat. On the right, just above the
received its mail by
became a controlled
settelement is Dutch Corners’ horse racetrack
Branch illus.
stage from 1865 to
artery of water that
1888 from Banta to the
amounted to no more that a lazy stream during the summer months. north. Price of land rose from the $1.50 an acre in the early years to
River traffic dwindled to nothing by the first decade of the 20th $10 an acre when agriculture was full-blown. There had been a lull
century.
in the settlement’s growth when Gold Rush traffic declined, but the
wheat era changed that. There was a resurgence of growth, which
Hill’s Ferry Settlement
caused the Hill’s Ferry Post Office to reopen on April 18, 1870.
Simon Newman, a German Jewish immigrant who changed
On July 3, 1855, Hill’s Ferry Post Office opened, with Jesse
Hill serving as the postmaster. Because of lack of residents, it closed his last name from Neuman to Newman, leased a Hill’s Ferry store
on May 19, 1856 for a period of 14 years. Hill’s Ferry was located in from Hubner in 1870, and within a few years, he had amassed $35,000
the Orestimba Township, which covered the southwest corner of worth of livestock. He owned a herd of sheep and was a quarter
Stanislaus County. The 1860 Census recorded 89 residents living in owner of the steamship, Centennial, which plied the waters between
the Orestimba Township, with over half residing on ranches. Many Stockton and San Francisco and was the largest vessel to navigate
were southern sympathizers, with some having been former slave the San Joaquin River. French immigrant brothers, Jules and Charles
owners. The 1860 Census recorded two saloons in Hill’s Ferry and Kahn, also owned a mercantile business in Hills Ferry, with both
a general merchandise store. Hill ran one saloon, while E.E. Hewitt the Kahns and Newman serving as bankers for the settlement.
Towards the end of the 1870s, Hill’s Ferry had a population
operated the store and the other saloon.
Most histories designate Jesse Hill as the exclusive owner of nearly 500 and was considered the largest town in the county.
of Hill’s Ferry settlement until he dispensed with individual lots The surrounding agricultural area, with its large ranches, employed
through business transactions. But according to county records, nearly 2,500 workers. Hill’s Ferry by this time consisted of a
Hill was really nothing more than a squatter on the Mexican Land restaurant, tin shop, wagon shop, paint shop, watch shop, lumber
Grant of Orestimba Rancho, which was in federal courts at the time yard, photograph gallery, shoe shop, public school, Masonic Hall,
to determine its rightful owner. But Hill thought he owned Hill’s Wells Fargo office, a attorney-at-law, and a constable; there were
Ferry settlement, having it surveyed in 1856, with his claims being two: hotels, blacksmith shops, carpenter shops, apothecaries,
justices of the peace, barbershops, notaries public, warehouses;
rejected twice by the government.
On July 30, 1863, Leonetto Cipriari was declared owner of and there were three livery stables, seven saloons, 20 houses and
Orestimba Rancho, by the U.S. government. The next year, Cipriari 19 Chinese shanties. The two justices of peace were John Newsom
hired William G. Collier of Merced County to survey his land. This and William Spicer. The two hotels were operated by John P. Allen
became known as the Collier Survey in which the settlement of and the Russ family. Simon Newman’s warehouse stored 4,000 tons
Hill’s Ferry sat on 56.26 acres of the rancho. On February 2, 1864, of grain, while the Kahn brothers’ warehouse 6,000 tons. Newman
Cipriani sold those Hill’s Ferry acres to Richard Wilson for $1,500. shipped 15,000 tons of grain a year, while the Kahn brothers 10,000
Wilson in turn sold the 56.26 acres on September 28, 1873 to wagon tons. There were two stage lines with stops at Hill’s Ferry, one on
———————— 584 ————————
——————————————
the Modesto route and the other on the Stockton-Visalia run. A
Masonic lodge was formed on May 17, 1873. Those in attendance
at the first meeting were: W.A. Atlee, Charles P. Harris, Patrick
Manning, J.M. Spriggs, H.F. Blackwell, W.H. Robinson, J.M.
Newsom, and Bing Fowler. On July 25, 1874, the hall was completed
at a cost of $2,720.
An article in the August 2, 1872 issue of the Stanislaus
County Weekly speaks of the growth and importance of Hill’s Ferry:
Winter 2013
was a member of the first Stanislaus County Court of Sessions and
later the Stanislaus County Board of Supervisors. He also was a
State Assemblyman from the region.
Wide-Open Town
Hill’s Ferry had the reputation of a wide-open town.
Outlaws of all types passed through, especially horse thieves who
were riding to hideouts in the coastal mountains. They tore up the
town, riding into saloons on horses, shooting out lights, and robbing
“Within the last three years, not withstanding the droughts, Hill’s
the till. Harvest crews of 20 to 50 men were in Hill’s Ferry on Saturday
Ferry has advanced in both population and business. Here is located
nights, staying through
one of the largest business
Sunday, spending their
establishments [owned by
paychecks on gambling, drink,
Simon Newman] of the entire
and female companionship.
county, if not the whole valley.
There were stabbings,
The trade at Hill’s Ferry is
shootings, theft, and general
indeed enormous. The greatest
mayhem. On Monday mornings
portion of its trade comes from
the ranch bosses would gather
Merced County, and it extends
their crews in wagons and
up some 40 miles. It has few if
return them for another week of
any rivals in trade. It is both the
work. One account tells of
center and outlet for a large
Joaquin Murrieta’s severed
portion of the valley.”
head being seen in a tub when
Marshals stopped at Hill’s
Ranches
Ferry on their way to San
In 1866, 1,500 turkeys
Francisco. J.T. Callahan wrote
were herded through Hill’s Ferry
a piece in the San Francisco
from Visalia to market in San
Morning Call on October 21,
Francisco. It was rumored that
1883 about the fast times at Hill’s
Map showing Hill’s Ferry’s location RLS illus.
the locals had turkey dinners
Ferry:
the next few days. Grazing sheep and cattle were common to the
area. Sheepherders, many who were Basque, drove their flocks to “The place became noted for its tough characters, its stories of
Hill’s Ferry for shearing and usually lost their money to gamblers. robberies, ruffianism, and crime. Mexican horse thieves and white
The town’s Wild West notoriety caused many settlers to buy land outlaws finding the most convenient crossing place to their
far away from town, such as in the foothill canyons. These ranchers rendezvous in the mountains, always used it after their raids among
drove or shipped their cattle to Stockton or to the gold mines for the settlers of the valley and always tarried long enough in the
butchering. There was a lack of doctors and undertakers in the place to clean out Mr. Hill’s bar room at the point of their pistols
community requiring settlers to perform these services as best they and then clean out his bottles and jugs with their mouths. The
could. When farming was poor and the farmers were unoccupied, crack of a pistol was a familiar sound and the cry of agony and
off to the gold mines they would go, seeking riches and adventure. despair of some poor victim as he received the assassin’s knife was
Social gatherings were popular within the farming community, with an almost nightly occurrence. The upturned face, cold, and white,
dances being held at Hill’s Ferry or on the ranches. Hill’s Ferry of a shearer or woodchopper or some other who happened to be
never had a church, because the nearby Newsom Bridge community possessed of money, would frequently startle the man who had
held services. Masons built a hall in Hill’s Ferry, with the bottom happened to step aside from the beaten track, stumble across the
floor being reserved for church meetings.
victim of revenge or avarice, stiff in death. Then it was that Hill’s
Ferry became generally known as the hardest place in the state.”
Schools
In 1855, Charles Hutchings led the campaign to establish
a public school in the area. A schoolhouse was built along Orestimba
Creek, which also served as a church on Sundays, with services
being conducted by Rev. Bonner. The school was paid through
subscriptions, and after 14 years of existence, it became part of the
new school district of Orestimba, joining with Bonita and White
Crow schools. Hill’s Ferry School District was formed in August
1873, having 26 students. Hutchings and his wife were buried on
Henry Mills’ ranch, along with their son-in-law, John Newsom, who
Callahan may have sensationalized some, but Hill’s Ferry
did have its murderous moments, such as the time when McNish
shot Hubbel. John McNish worked for Simon Newman and was a
respected citizen, but for some reason he was disliked by a Mr.
Hubbel. Hubbel forced a fight on McNish, who in turn shot and
killed him. McNish was acquitted by a jury. Another homicide
occurred on August 18, 1875, when Richard “Dick” Collins shot to
death John Shelden, an elderly sheepherder. They had been drinking
at one of the saloons, when the shooting took place. Collins
———————— 585 ————————
——————————————
vanished but was caught, tried in Modesto, and hung on November
24, 1876, being the last such hanging there.
In May 1883, another shooting occurred, which may have
led to the Callahan article. Levi Arnold and some friends had been
drinking heavily and entered John Rech’s saloon. Playfully Arnold
began beating Rech’s head with his hat demanding whiskey. Rech
wasn’t amused and refused to serve Arnold. The two exchanged
words whereby Arnold flung a glass at Rech breaking the large bar
mirror behind him. Rech then shot Arnold, killing him instantly. He
was acquitted in district court.
A racetrack was located three miles west of Hill’s Ferry
owned by Hill’s Ferry butcher shop operators, Ernest Voight and H.
Weitman. It stood on 16.42 acres that the two men bought on
November 22, 1873 for $340 from William Wilson. The racetrack
complex featured a saloon and roadhouse, with the complex being
known as Dutch Corners after Voight who was German (Deutsch).
Irrigation
On November 19, 1870, the San Joaquin and Kings River
Canal Company was formed, with a financial backing of $1 million
from private San Francisco sources and large landholders. By 1880,
the Miller-Lux Canal was 87 miles long. It began at the junction of
the San Joaquin River and Fresno Slough, ending two miles north
of Crows Landing. It transported irrigation water to ranches, causing
the division of large ranches into small acreages suitable for
irrigation. These irrigated lands were planted into clover and alfalfa,
with dairy farming becoming the chief industry. This served as an
example for ranchers throughout the valley as to the fortunes waiting
with irrigated land. Soon irrigation districts were formed to build
dams, reservoirs, and canals transforming river water into irrigation
water. Like hydraulic mining, taking water from rivers for irrigation
lowered river levels, causing the demise of river transportation, but
railroads quickly resolved this issue.
Newman and the Railroad
Simon Newman arrived in Hill’s Ferry in 1869 at the age of
23. He was from Germany and served on the Union side during the
Civil War. When he came to California, he worked as a clerk in
mercantile businesses in the Sierra. He opened a small merchandise
business in Hill’s Ferry, and by 1881, the volume of his stock
increased vastly to include dry goods, groceries, hardware, and
agricultural equipment. Newman also owned a warehouse and large
herds of livestock.
In 1887, the track of the San Pablo and Tulare Extension
Railroad, part of the Southern Pacific Railroad, was laid through the
West Side, four miles west of the San Joaquin River. Simon Newman
owned property that the railroad crossed, which he sold to the rail
company. This became the site for the new railroad town of Newman.
A Hill’s Ferry resident rallied his fellow citizens to embrace the
railroad in an article of the Stanislaus County Weekly News on
December 23, 1887:
“We are coming to a new era for westsiders. The “Iron Horse” had
forced his way across Orestimba Creek, and the sound of his hoofs
are ringing in the ears of everyone, old and young, and all are
looking with eager eyes to the day when he shall reach the new
Winter 2013
town near Dutch Corners. Awake ye sons of men! Arise ye
westsiders! Gird your loins and prepare for the coming conflict. Do
ye not hear the mutterings of the
boom that is now upon us? Then
up and be ready to grapple every
enemy of progress and civilization.
Put your shoulders against the car
of advancement and lift with such
mighty force as shall make for the
westside one of the great booms
which strike the golden state.”
There was a mass exodus
of businesses and buildings to
Newman from Hill’s Ferry. The An elderly Simon Newman
Merced Sun Star of January 27,
1888 had predicted: “The advent of Newman will be the death knell
of the once prosperous Hill’s Ferry.” Masons moved their hall at a
cost of $1,549 to three lots they purchased on O St. in Newman.
The building was too heavy to move intact, so the roof, floor, and
partitions in the upper floor were removed. Once the hall was in
Newman, a new coat of paint was applied at a cost of $355. The first
meeting was held in the moved hall on September 7, 1889. The post
office was moved on August 9, 1888 to Newman. When Charles
Hubner closed his wagon business, the riverboat and ferry town
of Hill’s Ferry was all but deserted.
River Bridge
A bridge was built in 1902 over the San Joaquin River
near the old Hill’s Ferry crossing. It was long overdue, with the
problem being a lack of agreement between the boards of
supervisors of Merced and Stanislaus counties. The process began
in 1889 through a citizens’ petition. On May 14, 1889, the Stanislaus
County Board of Supervisors considered the matter and took the
position that the cost of the bridge should be shared with Merced
County. The counties were slow in their joint effort which prompted
another citizens’ petition. On March 14, 1890, the Stanislaus board
voted to continue seeking Merced’s cooperation indefinitely until
the bridge was finished.
On August 25, 1891, while crossing the river, the ferry
sank with a load of sheep. This brought an outcry from the public
demanding a bridge. In the meantime, residents of Newman and
Hill’s Ferry petitioned the county board on August 13, 1893 for the
establishment of a free ferry, which meant the county would have
to subsidize it. It was turned down. On March 14, 1895, the board
ordered a joint meeting with Merced County. On June 12th,
Stanislaus and Merced counties’ representatives met and agreed
to seek bids for the bridge’s construction, but the Stanislaus board
voted to defeat the action, wanting a feasibility study first. This
was done and submitted to the boards on April 12, 1897. It was a
favorable report, which caused the bridge to be built, being finished
on February 22, 1902. It was a steel turntable bridge that allowed
vessels to pass. The bridge stood for 60 years, but metal fatigue
and the narrowness of the passageway caused a new concrete
bridge to be built in 1962. What was once a ferryboat crossroad
and a steamboat landing now served as a bridge site.
———————— 586 ————————
Crows Landing: The Early Years
Crow Family
Pike returned to Missouri in 1852 and remained there until
1854, returning to California with a herd of cattle, which were driven
California in 1849 just like thousands of other men across America to the Crow settlement along Orestimba Creek. The six Crow brothers
and elsewhere. Crow worked as a mechanic, carpenter, and a farmer in California corresponded with the three remaining siblings in
in Kentucky. He was born in Danville, Kentucky on January 18, Missouri, telling them of the opportunities in the Golden State.
1794, moving to Pike County, Missouri with his wife Susan in 1848. This resulted in the balance of Walter and Susan Crow’s family
She gave birth to nine children, eight sons and one daughter, coming to California in 1865. They were members of one of the
passing away however before her husband set out for California in largest wagon trains to head West, being captained by John “Brad”
1849. The Crows were English, with their ancestry immigrating to Bradford Crow, who brought with him his brother Isaac P. Crow and
Rockingham County, Virginia and then to Boyle County, Kentucky. sister Susan Eleanor Crow, who later married J.W. Smith. Also in the
Some linked the family with Dr. James Crow, the developer of wagon train were the Crow family servants and other families who
Kentucky bourbon
knew the Crows. They
whiskeyand founcrossed the plains by
der of the Old Crow
way of Omaha and
distillery, but Walter
Salt Lake, entering
Crow’s genealogy
California after five
chart lacks such a
months of exhausting
connection.
travel,
coming
Departing
through Calaveras
from his home near
County, arriving in
Bowling Green,
Stockton
on
Missouri, Walter
September 1, 1865.
Crow departed for
They lingered in
California by oxen
Stockton for a year
team accompanied
and then moved to the
by his two younger
Crow settlement along
sons, Lewis Jacob
Orestimba Creek.
Crow and Clinton From left are: Isaac Pritchard Crow, William Henry Crow, James Addison Crow,
Brad Crow
Pike Crow. They Benjamin Hamilton Crow, John Bradford Crow, Arthur McDowell Crow, Lewis Jacob purchased 2,800 acres
arrived in California
of land of the old
Crow, Clinton Pike Crow, and Susan Eleanor Crow Smith
on September 10,
Spanish land grant,
CSU, Stanislaus Special Collections photo
1849 and immediateRancho Orestimba, for
ly began mining near
an average of $2.78 per
Hangtown, where Walter remained until December 1st. Seeing acre. (Another account notes that it was 3,000 acres costing from
opportunity in California cattle business, he returned to Missouri $1.50 to $2 per acre, depending upon the quality of the land.) The
by ship, via the Isthmus of Panama, to purchase cattle and drive acquired land extended three miles on both sides of Orestimba
them to California. Clinton Pike Crow, known by his middle name Creek. By 1881, he was farming 4,000 acres that produced 25 bushels
Pike, and his brother Lewis remained in California, continuing to of wheat per acre. A dam was erected across the creek, allowing
mine as the weather permitted. Pike had been a seminary student in irrigation of 300 acres for field crops. In 1881, Brad Crow owned 100
Ashley, Missouri, but because of poor health, he was forced to head of cattle, 100 horses and mules, and 500 hogs.
forego his theological studies.
The first buildings constructed by the Crows came from
In the spring of 1850, Walter traversed the plains once lumber hauled overland from Stockton. Later, James Addison Crow,
again, bringing with him four more of his sons: William Henry Crow, and his sister Susan, and her husband, J.W. Smith, shipped their
James Addison Crow, Benjamin Harrison Crow, and Arthur lumber by steamboat from Stockton. Steamboats and barges were
McDowell Crow. They were part of a wagon train, driving 800 important at this time for hauling of sacks of grain and hay to
“American” cattle of their own, losing half before arriving in Stockton from various landings or wharves along the San Joaquin
California. Unfortunately, at the age of 56, Walter Crow took sick, River. The steamboats returned from Stockton with farm supplies
expiring at the mouth of the Feather River shortly after their arrival, and equipment for the large ranches. At this time, the river was
being buried in Yuba City. His sons drove the surviving 400 head of navigable south to Herndon, where the river turns eastward towards
cattle to an area near Ripon, engaging in butchering and dairying. the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. The steamboats ran from April
Later they settled along the Orestimba Creek near the Coast Range to September when the river had enough depth. During the winter,
foothills, with Pike and Lewis joining them to continue the family’s the steamboats were berthed at Stockton, making runs around the
cattle business. Pike carved his name and the date “1851” on a rock Delta and to San Francisco Bay. The railroad would eventually
at the head of Orestimba Creek, a practice in the Westward replace steamboats, while irrigation dams caused the river to lack
Movement.
volume, preventing steamboat river travel altogether.
The electrifying news of gold brought Walter Crow to
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River Vessels
The Crow family had at least two steamboats of their own.
The accounts are conflicting as to which family members were
engaged in river transportation and what the steamboats’ names
were. One source commented that James and Pike Crow operated
two steamers, Harriet and Clara Crow, managed by Susan’s
husband, J.W. Smith. James and Pike also operated a horse-drawn
railway line in Stockton. Another report records that Brad Crow and
J.W. Smith built two steamers that transported passengers and
supplies up and down the San Joaquin River. Still another account
Winter 2013
had dropped the river level so low that steamboat travel became
prohibitive.
Clara Crow’s log recorded that she transported grain,
cattle, lumber, food, and passengers. The transportation of grain
and hay to Stockton by steamboat during harvest time was crucial
for ranchers. They wanted to avoid the expense of storing their
yields in riverside warehouses for any length of time or having to
pay for freighting their harvested crops by mule team, which was
slow and expensive. During this era, northern San Joaquin Valley
was one mammoth wheat field, having enormous yields, all needing
to be transported to Stockton from where they were shipped
worldwide. For this, there were steamboat landings along the San
Joaquin River at San Joaquin City, Grayson, Crows Landing, and
Hill’s Ferry. Stockton was considered to be over 50 river miles from
Crows Landing when considering the river’s numerous meandering
turns. Many times steamboats pulled barges of significant size,
usually 300 feet by 50 feet that could haul up to 18,000 sacks of
grain. Many times they had their own rudder and helmsman to
guide the vessel down the main channel. Barges drew five feet of
water and had the habit of grounding if the pilot was not vigilant.
Crows Landing Beginnings
Steamboat J.R. McDonald at Crows Landing
SSS photo
has James A. Crow and J.W. Smith constructing two steamboats,
J.C. Walker and Clara Crow, and operating a shipping business.
One more publication asserted that O.C. Eastin and Brad
Crow were partners in a ferryboat business, being joined by a Crow
brother and brother-in-law. The four businessmen then expanded
their river transportation business, concentrating on hauling grain.
And a final account stated that the Crow family built its own
steamers, J.R. McDonald and Harriet, with Harriet being later named
Clara Crow.
On January 6, 1868, Brad Crow wrote to Henry Miller, cattle
baron and partner in the Miller-Lux Irrigation Canal enterprise, about
his steamboat business:
“Mr. Louis Haas and I have just completed a steamer, which we
expect to run regular once a week to Fresno. We call her Harriet
and any freight you have to go up the river we would be happy to
carry for you. . . . We propose to work for fair prices and will run as
long as we can get patronage. Our boat is about as large as the
Tulare – ours is neatly fitted for passengers. Give us a trial.”
One can conclude from these various sources that James
Crow, Pike Crow, Brad Crow, and J.W. Smith, were all involved in
steamboat transportation in some fashion. For sure the Crows owned
Harriet (Clara Crow) and another vessel, either J.C. Walker or J.R.
McDonald, or maybe both. If it were the J.R. Walker, it took its last
run south of the Crow family settlement in 1906, because irrigation
At first the Crows Landing facility for steamboats and
barges was known as John Bradford Crow’s Wharf. Then shortly
the name was changed to Crow’s Landing, with the apostrophe
being dropped officially from its name (Crows Landing) when the
U.S. post office was opened. Technically, there were two Crows
Landings. The first being John Bradford Crow’s Wharf, which was
located on a bluff as the river bended, near a store owned by Clyde
Beatly. Then there was Crow’s Upper Landing, found in Clara
Crow’s log, being located on a bluff on the river just south of the
John Bradford Crow’s ranch. In the upper right corner
there is a steamboat where his wharf was located
Branch illus.
mouth of Orestimba Creek on property owned by Benjamin Crow.
Near this site, Brad Crow operated a ferryboat crossing with Jim
Eastin that was originated by George Russell in 1851.
The community of Crows Landing grew at Crow’s Upper
Landing, stretching to the intersection of the landing’s road and
Stockton-Hill’s Ferry Road, a major overland artery from Stockton.
The small settlement had a blacksmith shop, Crow family
warehouses, and a store operated by Charles Whitmore, who served
as postmaster. There was a grocery store owned by Mr. Tucker in
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the 1860s, being located at the intersection. It was sold to a Mr.
Armstrong, with John E. Thompson, the blacksmith, buying it. A
post office building was transported from Orestimba to the
settlement, with the post office officially opening on June 21, 1870,
having the name Crows Landing.
Other families began settling in the Crows Landing area.
Thomas K. Wallis of Wisconsin came to California in 1863 through
Winter 2013
Moving Crows Landing
These early pioneers grew grain and raised cattle. There
were few trees on the valley plains, with the land being unfenced.
This was to change in 1881 when the Miller and Lux Canal was
finished, bringing irrigation to the area. Land was divided into
smaller acreages, with dairy farming becoming the chief agricultural
industry. The next major change occurred when the Southern Pacific
Railroad line came through the West Side in 1887. Crows Landing
was four miles east of the railroad track, with Crows Landing
residents realizing that their town needed to be relocated where the
railroad existed. Before long, rail transportation replaced steamboats.
A site for the relocation of Crows Landing was selected. It
is unclear if the land was purchased from the Crows or donated by
them. Brad Crow bought the Kane Warehouse in Hill’s Ferry,
relocating the building on the east side of the railroad tracks. Before
long, one could see teams of wagons lined up with loads of grain at
his facility. Crows Landing Post Office moved shortly from the river
site to the rail site.
The community left behind at the old Crows Landing
became known as Byersville for John Byers, a cattle rancher and
early settler. He kept a grocery store and succeeded in getting a
post office at Byersville, which opened on November 14, 1894. For
many years the stage still brought mail to the settlement. The grocery
store remained until it was destroyed by fire in the mid-1930s.
Schools
An old surveyor’s map adapted to illustrate the location of key sites
RLS illus.
the Isthmus of Panama. His wife arrived the following year, with
them rearing ten children on land they homesteaded east of the San
Joaquin River. The Wisconsin families of Kricke and Fink traveled
overland, settling in the Crows Landing area. In 1869, Charles Kricke
arrived in California to evaluate the opportunities available for his
family. He was followed by Will Fink in 1871. Fink returned home
and brought his sister Frederica to the Golden State. In 1873, his
wife and four sons, Jacob, Charles, George, and Julius, along with
Will’s father, arrived by rail in Banta, taking a carriage to Crows
Landing. At first they purchased very little land, but soon they
owned two sections north and west of the present Crows Landing.
In 1873, Charles Kricke brought his wife and small children
by train from Wisconsin, settling near Crows Landing. They were
German and were unaccustomed to American culture and language.
Misfortune struck when Kricke was robbed of his entire savings
while enroute. Others aboard the train shared their food, but when
they arrived at Banta, the family was penniless. Kricke walked 30
miles to find a carriage to take his family to Crows Landing. Within
two years, they were leasing 240 acres of land at a cost of one-fifth
of the crops produced on it. The land was uncultivated when Kricke
first farmed it, and eventually he bought the ranch for $2.50 an acre.
He was tragically killed while taking his daughter Dora to school
when his mule team fell off a washed-out bridge. Mrs. Kricke
possessed the industry to buy the 250 acres and manage the ranch
successfully.
The first public school in Stanislaus County was founded
in 1854 at Newsom’s Bridge on Orestimba Creek. Newsom’s Bridge
was a small settlement that developed where the Hill’s FerryStockton Road crossed Orestimba Creek. Another area public school
was opened in 1881, named Bonita School, located where the Naval
Auxiliary Air Station would be during World War II. There was an
enrollment of 18 students in 1881, with the teacher’s salary being
$65 a month and the schoolhouse valued at $150. Another public
school was organized with the name White Crow School to
distinguish it from the “Black Crow” branch of the family, who were
Republicans. Accounts provide no further explanation for this
curious circumstance. The school was located near Orestimba Creek
on Mervyn Crow’s ranch. When the railroad came through, White
Crow School merged with Bonita School, opening at the rail town
of Crows Landing.
It was at White Crow School that the first church service
was held in the area. Services then were normally presided by circuit
riding preachers of which Rev. E.C. Latta was one. He founded the
first church in the area, with Thomas K. Wallis, John F. Stewart, and
James T. Crow, son of Brad Crow, assisting him in the effort. In April
1893, a church building was completed and was named Cumberland
Presbyterian Church, with Rev. E.L.B. McClellan serving as its first
pastor.
Bridges
In 1887, the first Crows Landing bridge was built across
the San Joaquin River for $35,196. It was constructed for Stanislaus
County by the Pacific Bridge Company, being completed May 11,
1887. It was a turntable bridge, operated by John Byers, that pivoted,
allowing river traffic to pass on the river. On August 15, 1890, a river
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steamer crashed into the bridge, closing it for several weeks, while
repairs of nearly $4,600 were made. One source notes that on June
21, 1893, a late spring run-off completely covered the span.
As mentioned earlier, the community of Newsom’s Bridge
was located where the Hill’s Ferry-Stockton Road (River Road today)
crosses Orestimba Creek. The bridge itself first appeared in county
records on December 5, 1854 when a road petition was filed with
First Crows Landing bridge built in 1887 for $35,196 by
the Pacific Bridge Company. It was a turntable bridge
operated by John Byers that allowed river traffic to travel
the San Joaquin River
SSS photo
Stanislaus County Court of Sessions (early Board of Supervisors)
to extend a road from Hill’s Ferry to the northern part of the county
by way of Newsom’s Bridge. The petition was approved, with the
roadway becoming a public highway.
John Newsom, for whom the bridge was named, bought
land from the Orestimba Ranch in the early 1850s. He was chosen to
be on the first County Board of Supervisors in 1855, serving a short
term from May to August. He
returned to the board in 1860,
where he served from
November 1860 to August
1866. Newsom was the board’s
chairman for five of the six years.
He was reelected again in 1872,
serving until September 1875,
where he was chairman the last
year of his term. He also was a
State
Assemblyman,
representing the MercedStanislaus District during the
17th Session of the California
State Assembly for 1876-78. He
John Newsom
became known as the
CSUS Special Collections illlus.
“Watchdog of the Treasury”
for his vigilance in watching governmental spending. In his later
years, he lived in Hill’s Ferry, serving as one of the town’s justices
of the peace and notary public. He became a watchmaker and died
at the age of 72 on June 10, 1892.
As noted above, the first public school in Stanislaus
County was founded in 1854 at Newsom’s Bridge. Charles Hutchings
Winter 2013
was able to raise money to build a one-room schoolhouse. Having
had previous experience in establishing a school in Missouri, he
drafted regulations for the school building’s usage. In it, school
activity was given priority, except on election day when the building
served as an election poll. Religious denominations used the
building for free, as well as political, literary or charitable
organizations. Rev. Eli Latta organized a congregation of
Presbyterians, using the school building from 1876 to 1888 when
they moved to Newman. In May 1869, the school was added to the
new Orestimba School District.
On April 18, 1870, a post office was placed at Newsom’s
Bridge with the postal authorities naming it Orestimba after the
rancho and creek. Many local citizens referred to it as “Orris Timbres”
in their correspondence not really knowing its true spelling. The
post office, though, was moved two months later to Crows Landing
on June 21, 1870. In 1871, the County Board of Supervisors decided
that a new bridge was needed at Newsom’s Bridge, and on May 21,
1872, it was completed by M. Staley at a cost of $750.
Mexican Land Grants in Stanislaus County. Future towns
are given to provide a better understanding of the land
grants’ locations
RLS illus.
Front cover: Stanislaus County photos of an early
peach orchard, wheat harvester, bridge, and M.E. Wright
steamboat.
CSUS Special Collections photos
———————— 590 ————————
Land Ownership and Agricultural
Transition in Stanislaus County
D
uring the decade following the first flow of water into the
canals and ditches of the Turlock Irrigation District (TID) in 1901
and the Modesto Irrigation District (MID) in 1903, Stanislaus County
was transformed from a wheat producing area of great renown to a
community of small farms of diversified crops. Almost as fast as
irrigation water rushed across Stanislaus County land, the massive
wheat ranches and its type of life began to disappear forever.
Water Is Needed
Once water began to flow down the canal laterals, large
acreages began to be parceled off and sold. The following statistics
testify to this dramatic transformation caused by subdivision during
the decade. In 1901, there were 951 farms in Stanislaus County,
which increased to 2,200 by 1910. The average size of a county farm
in 1901 was 874 acres, with many farms being over 1,000 acres, as
compared to 1910 when the average farm acreage was 242, with a
great number of farms being 20 to 50 acres in size. Price per acre
during the decade shot upward along with the number of land
sales. In 1901, one could buy land for $18 an acre, which rose to $60
by 1910, with some prime land selling for $100 to $200 an acre. Real
estate became a big business overnight.
At the turn of the 19th century, wheat was still the number
one crop of the county, but its type of agriculture was destroying
the soil. Evidence of soil depletion could be seen in the decline of
rich harvests. W.W. Waters, a prominent county farmer, noted in
Promoting Land Sales
1901 that his earlier harvests reaped from 12 to 15 sacks of grain per
acre but production had declined to a meager five or six sacks.
Land companies sprang up, such as the renowned Fin de
Different strains of
Siecle (End of the Century),
wheat were being developed
owned by a number of local
with the hope of restoring the
prominent men, including
crop to its once grand state.
Horace and Stephen Crane,
James Thompson of Lanark
George S. Bloss and his son
Park was experimenting with
George S. Bloss, Jr., and Harry
wheat to create one that
F. Geer. The company purchased
required less water. The
the massive John W. Mitchell
commonly used summer
holdings, placing all 120,000
fallowing method of soil
acres for sale in small parcels.
restoration was found to be
A mixture of local
lacking in effectiveness. The
efforts was concocted to attract
one crop system that was
potential land buyers. The
dependent upon consistent
Stanislaus County Board of
Train load of excursionists to view farmland that was up for sale.
winter and spring rainfall was
Trade had an immense
Located at Turlock’s Southern Pacific Depot in 1907
not working. Irrigation seemed
advertisement
program.
CSUS Special Collections photo
to be the answer to the area’s
Railroads offered special prices
predicament of soil depletion and declining agricultural production.
to excursionists (buyers from distances) and supported advertising
Soil could be restored by crop rotation from diversified agriculture.
exhibits at stations and in railcars. Private investors were on the
This required plenty of irrigation water, which was the purpose of
bandwagon, improving properties and offering special inducements
TID and MID.
to purchase property. Many times these local entrepreneurs joined
efforts to coax potential buyers to the county.
Irrigation and Subdividing Land
People, such as Ephraim Hatch, began to anticipate the
coming change in the size of farms because of irrigation. In 1899, he
bought hardscrabble land in the county to add to his already
burgeoning holdings for future land sales. Many ranch owners
were allowing their vast acreages to lie dormant awaiting the
inevitable subdivision of their land. They believed it was not worth
the time and expense to farm grain for meager yields. Some
landowners decided to improve their holdings by leveling the land,
constructing irrigation ditches and gates, and in some cases
erecting houses and farm buildings, thereby increasing their
property’s value. Many landowners actively and vocally supported
the irrigation program, such as L.M. Hickman in the TID, much to
the chagrin of his anti-irrigation, wheat growing neighbors.
Railroad Involvement
S.W. Ferguson was one such entrepreneur. He was the
manager of the Kern County Land Bureau, Land Agent for the
Southern Pacific Railroad (SPRR), a representative of realities in
the state, and a representative of the local entrepreneurs. He traveled
frequently throughout the Midwest and East Coast and went once
to Europe on behalf of his sponsors. Ferguson sought the “proper
class,” as he put it. He urged the local landowners to price their
land low, thereby encouraging a buying surge. Once buying
accelerated and a trend was established, prices could be raised as
situations permitted. His advice did not fall on deaf ears.
Land was not on the market for long, because the
advertisement program was so effective. SPRR for one had a multi-
———————— 591 ————————
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Winter 2013
headed program. Not only did the railroad company advertise land They were paraded around the county in fine carriages and shiny
in numerous newspapers and magazines throughout the U.S., it automobiles. Meals were cooked on home stoves and lodgings
provided low fares to land seekers. These rates were offered most were made especially comfortable. In Modesto, groups gathered in
often during the winter months when farmers could take advantage the Court House Park to hear speeches, listen to music, view slides,
of the off-season to inspect land. Rates to California for March and and read promotional literature.
April 1902 were: $25 from the Missouri River and Houston, $33 from
Chicago, $31 from Peoria, and $30 from St. Louis, Cairo, Memphis,
Lectures and Exhibits
and New Orleans.
The lecture program was another advertising technique.
In February 1902, E.O. McCormick, Passenger Traffic Many prominent men in the county, such as A.B. Shoemake,
Manager of SPRR, reported that one-third of the 21,000 excursionists volunteered his time to the County Board of Trade’s lecture program.
in 1901, traveling on the reduced rate program, had settled in G.T. McCabe, under contract with the board, lectured frequently,
California. Still the program was young as were the infant irrigation primarily in the Los Angeles area. In 1908, McCabe gave 24 lectures
projects in California. As irrigation broadened and agriculture a month, with an average attendance of 74, or a grand total of 21,370
matured, more and more people bought
persons addressed. Of these, 455 spoke
land, and many who left empty-handed
to McCabe privately after his
returned to purchase land later. The
presentations, with him sending 135
buyers provided the oldest form of
potential buyers to the county, where
advertisement, word-of-mouth to
50 bought land averaging 30 acres each.
others, especially when they returned
At $65 an acre, the going price at the
home to settle estates and collect
time, he sold $97,500 worth of land in
belongings before moving to California.
1908. In his annual report, McCabe
Postcards were another
stated that the lecture/interview
source of county advertisement. In June
technique was the most effective
1901, SPRR agent J.T. Keating of
method of reaching potential land
Modesto asked the Stanislaus County
buyers.
Board of Trade for photographs and
Exhibits were created and
information on county agriculture,
placed at prime locations in the state.
industry, and scenic spots for postcard
In 1902, a glass case was displayed in
presentations. The following year,
the Los Angeles railroad station, having
County Board of Trade Secretary G.P.
the wording: “STANISLAUS COUNTY
Two excurtionists being chauffeured around by
Shafer reported that he distributed 3,000
– MODESTO, THE COUNTY SEAT” as
a land agent
Anthology photo
postcards to local residents who in turn
a heading. Inside was a map of
sent them to distant acquaintances. Not
California, with lines drawn, radiating from Modesto to the chief
everyone was encouraged to settle. Stern warnings such as the California cities. Irrigated acreages were shown, with a statement
following accompanied the leaflets and newspaper advertisements: that the people of Stanislaus County owned the water rights. Also,
“The man who has no means, no profession or trade, and no position there were samples of county agricultural products. A similar display
assured is as bad off in California as in the Eastern States.”
was positioned at a prominent location in the San Francisco Ferry
Building. A representative was present, who gave short lectures
Excursionists
and showed slides, extolling the virtues of the county.
At the “1902 Conclave of the Knights of Pythias” in San
The planned excursion became a favored method of
soliciting land buyers. Special arrangements were made with the Francisco, members of Stanislaus County lodges and the County
railroads by local promoters. For example, in 1907 a trip of 60 Board of Trade provided an immense model of the county’s
individuals cost a total of just one regular fare, which was paid by irrigation system that was dominated by a 7-foot high model of La
local promoters. Most individual land seekers or small groups of Grange Dam. County agricultural products were displayed in three
excursionists came to the county from either Los Angeles or the dozen glass jars. An even grander display was the traveling exhibit
northern coast of California. Larger groups of excursionists came of two railroad cars sponsored jointly by A.B. Shoemake Co. and
the County Board of Trade. Besides local products, the display
from the Midwest.
In March 1907, 50 excursionists visited the Turlock and exhibited a number of enticing curiosities, such as weapons from
Modesto areas. Turlock and Modesto was given equal time, a the South Pacific, a few live animals, stuffed fish, and, in keeping
condition required specifically by the promoters. H.H. Whitmore, with fads of the time, a teddy bear. Area representatives accompanied
who was the excursion’s organizer, requested that the local residents the exhibit to answer questions and to extol the virtues of a
show courtesy and above all were asked not to inflate prices for promising Stanislaus County. These traveling exhibits were
local goods and services. He reminded them that they could be transported in California, a few western states, and the Midwest,
catering to new neighbors. Whitmore’s commonsense warning having promotional literature in English, Swedish, Finnish,
Slovenian, and Italian languages.
contributed to sales, because 42 of the 50 bought land.
Many Midwesterners were leery of living in California or
These group visitors were treated with plenty of fanfare.
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even coming to the state, because of the 1906 San Francisco
Earthquake. In an effort to calm their fears, Stanislaus County
representatives informed them that such earthquakes were
infrequent and didn’t occur in the Central Valley. Statistics were
presented, especially alarming ones as to the dangers of tornadoes
and blizzards in the Midwest.
Land Sales
Winter 2013
for $45 an acre in the MID.
The occupations and hometowns of the purchasers of the
Ellenwood Tract near the Stanislaus River came from a variety of
backgrounds. J.F. Hixon was a SPRR freight and passenger agent in
Fresno; W.J. Miller was a conductor for the same railroad line; Dr.
A. Stevenson was a prominent physician from El Paso; and Herman
Hintze was a Modesto musician. These four men bought all 172
acres of the Ellenwood Tract for $32.50 per acre. They tossed coins
to divide the land up among themselves.
Sales in the TID began to rise sharply, because irrigation
water could be seen flowing in its canals. In late 1901, L.F. Hastings,
a civil engineer from Tulare, bought 240 acres of the W.H. Harp
Land Colonies
ranch owned by Mrs. Mary L. Stone. It was located in the TID,
Colonies often were formed by people of similar
three miles south of Modesto and sold for $35 an acre. J.Q. Bush of background, i.e., same religion, same ethnic origin, or neighbors
Watsonville bought 40 acres of the same ranch for $32.50 an acre. from some distant community. For example, William Meier of Sutter
Mrs. E. Casey of Turlock sold 40 acres to a Mr. Grenwold of County visited Stanislaus, returning with a number of his neighbors
Porterville. He was the first of many county settlers to come from to purchase farmland. Neighbors in Nebraska bought 560 acres
there. C.N. Whitmore sold 55 acres to Peter Hansen of San Lucas, collectively. S.E. Garber and his Dunkard denomination purchased
25 acres to Peter Runge of the same town, and 10 acres to Antoine land north of Modesto. Near Hilmar, in Merced County, a colony of
V. Mattos of Newman.
Swedes bought land. They planned a community of 990, and by
Land sales in the MID had stalled, because water rights May 1904, 100 houses had been built and many fields had been
litigation had not be settled by the
converted to irrigated farming.
courts. There were sales though as
Mennonites from Pennsylvania
MID irrigation was anticipated by
bought land in the Wood Tract,
1903. Elmer E. Hayden of Los
which then became Wood Colony.
Angeles bought 40 acres of land
Swiss dairymen settled in the
north of Modesto for $30 an acre.
West Side. The largest recorded
He was one of the first to buy newly
purchase at the time was made by
subdivided land in the MID. J.B.
a group of Quakers. They bought
Wallis, a longtime county resident,
4,000 acres, which included the
acquired 40 acres in the Coldwell
community of Elmwood, later to
tract north of Modesto. H.A. Bates,
be named Denair. It was a planned
manager of the Harlacher and Kahn
settlement of 200 families. A group
Warehouses in Modesto, bought
of American missionaries in India,
160 acres for $1,870 in the MID,
after seeing an advertisement,
Land agent spokesman addressing a crowd of excursionsouth of town.
bought acreage from the
ists at Turlock’s Southern Pacific Depot in 1907
The Fin de Siecle
Whitmore estate by mail. A
Association reported numerous
representative of grape growers
land sales, primarily to people of Scandinavian descent. E. Henstrom in Rhineland, Germany, Mr. Gillig, came to the county and region to
of Nebraska purchased 740 acres for himself and friends southwest seek suitable land for their industry.
of Turlock; N. Hendricksen of Minnesota bought 80 acres; C.
Limblom, also of Minnesota, bought 147 acres; E.E. Larsen and the
Parceling Large Ranches
Peterson brothers of Idaho Falls acquired 80 acres; and A. Ericksen,
Large landholdings continued to be subdivided. J.T. Davis
of the same city, bought 40. Other buyers, from as far away as of San Francisco sold 3,000 acres east of Turlock to C.N. Whitmore
Illinois and as near as Fresno, also purchased land.
for $120,000, who divided the land into small farms. O. McHenry
There was an ever-increasing placement of large estates subdivided the McHenry Colony near Keys Switch (later changed
on the market. A.B. Shoemake advertised 10,000 acres available for to Keyes), leveled the land for irrigation, and parceled it into 40new settlers. The Woods’ ranch, three miles north of Modesto, acre pieces. The Los Angeles Realty Trust bought 6,000 acres from
owned jointly by Showmake and Oramil McHenry, was subdivided the Fin de Siecle Company and divided it into small acreages.
into 24-acre plots. Hiram Hughson’s ranch, surrounding the town
John Denair, a Santa Fe Railroad superintendent, and Mr.
of Hughson, put 3,000 acres up for sale.
Cunningham, a Needles banker, purchased 4,500 acres of land jointly.
Most of the buyers came from southern California and the The purchase included 700 acres near Delhi (Merced County), 2,900
Midwest. W.P. Stevenson of Los Angeles bought 40 acres of the acres west of Turlock, and 960 acres of the Kehoe Ranch. This land
Whitmore estate for $35 per acre, while A. Marshall of Kansas was subdivided and sold for $50 an acre. Later, the Pritchard-Denair
acquired 40 acres for $42.50. A prominent fruit grower from Los Land Company bought 800 acres north of Elmwood (Denair) from
Angeles, Frederick Schmidt, paid $12,000 for 320 acres of land Mrs. Clara Sperry, paying $40,000 and later subdividing it. Two
northeast of Modesto. A.T. Covell of Woodbridge bought 266 acres sections of Hiram Hughson’s ranch were bought and divided by
———————— 593 ————————
——————————————
Charles Geer. W.F. Coffee put 480 acres of his land on the market.
Two Root family ranches, totaling 1,400 acres, located between Dry
Creek and the Tuolumne River and four miles east of Modesto,
were cut into small farms.
Winter 2013
(Continued from back cover) The first Calimyrna fig orchard appeared
in 1904 when George Stoddard planted seven acres on his ranch
north of Modesto. In order to produce fruit, the trees needed the
Blastophaga Wasp’s assistance. The wasp was rare in California
and a slow propagator of young. To meet the need, the federal
government imported the wasp from Algiers, where it was abundant,
in special tinfoil containers created by Walter T. Swingle. This took
time, and the imported wasps proved to be slow propagators as
well.
In March 1909, swarms of the blastophaga wasp were found
in a fig tree on farmland owned by Samuel Gates, nine miles west of
Modesto. As the story goes, Louis Adams was the original owner,
planting a fig tree in 1867, with Gates purchasing the ranch the next
year. The tree grew, with Gates adoring its shade but disliking the
pesky little “bugs” on its limbs. He threatened to chop the tree
down many times. Swingle heard of Gates’ problem “bugs” and
investigated, finding the tree swarming with the crucial Blastophaga
Wasp. Gates made a fortune selling wasp-covered limbs of his fig
tree. Before long, Calimyrna fig groves dotted the county in patches
of 10 to 40 acres.
New Vineyards
Viticulture took hold quickly in the county. Paradise Ranch
and Bald Eagle Ranch grew grapes successfully in limited quantities
for a number of years, serving as examples of the county’s potential.
Land sales advertisement, 1904
MID illus
The widow of J.D. Patterson of the West Side sold 28,000
acres of Rancho El Pescadero. This was purchased by the San
Joaquin and Kings River Canal and Irrigation Company at $20 per
acre. This acquisition cleared the way for the Miller and Lux Canal
to extend across the Rancho, thereby bringing more irrigation to
the area and producing small farms.
The wheat era had ended, with irrigation radically altering
Stanislaus County’s landscape. Farms were immensely smaller, crops
were diversified, and the population much larger and more diversified
ethnically.
Young grape vineyard in the TID
Now with extensive irrigation, longtime ranchers and new settlers
began cultivating large vineyards. W.E. Garrison planted 50 acres
of his ranch with grapes in 1904, while Frank and Joseph Martin of
Salinas, who bought the F.F. Hardwich Ranch, put 80 acres into
grapes. In 1906, Woodland Colony planted 22,000 Thompson
Seedless vines, and near Hughson, 500 acres were converted into
an enormous vineyard by new settlers from Stockton. J.E. Ward
planted 60 acres of Thompson Seedless on his farm, while A.E.
Moore set in 40 acres of Zinfandel vines on his land. The Maze
Ranch, west of Modesto, planted 40 acres of Zinfandel and 20 of
Tokay, and Broughton Colony put 250 acres into variety of grapes.
The newly planted grape acreages had a selling price of $200 per
acre in 1910, up from $30 in 1900.
But, as with all farming, grape growers had their problems.
Prices fell from $14 a ton to $4.50 as the decade unfolded, because
———————— 594 ————————
——————————————
yields increased dramatically as more vineyards were planted and
matured. N.O. Hultberg refused to sell his crop for such a low price,
feeding the grapes to his hogs instead. Much to his elation, he
discovered that they fattened quickly and sold well on the market.
In 1905, it was found that some imported grape rootstocks were
diseased. Stanislaus County Supervisors passed an ordinance
halting their importation into the county. Afterward, it became a
requirement that all grape rootstocks be inspected and fumigated
before planting.
Ground Crops
A variety of new ground crops were tried in the irrigated
fields. Sugar beets, peanuts, cotton, flax, and tobacco proved not
as successful as melons, beans, and sweet potatoes in the TID. In
1906, an average of three railroad cars of cantaloupes and six of
watermelons were shipped daily from Turlock at the height of the
Winter 2013
industry. This troubled a number of county residents, because they
felt county soil should be used to provide food and not industrial
material. Professor Shaw of the University of California Agricultural
Advisory Service supported these critics. A debate ensued, in which
the side led by Dr. Adolph Ekstein of Modesto, the “Eucalyptus
King,” argued that it was proper usage of county land. Many
prominent farmers were already eucalyptus growers and supported
Dr. Ekstein. The opposition lost, but soon it was discovered that
eucalyptus was not suited for poles or railroad ties, because the cut
lumber twisted and split when dried. The large acreages were
removed, leaving some eucalyptus groves intact for windbreaks
shade, and firewood.
Alfalfa
Alfalfa grew heartily in the county with irrigation. It proved
to be especially useful as dairy feed, enhancing milk production.
The plant also restored soil nutrients and produced rich fertilizer
after ingestion by dairy cows. There were technical problems at
first. Fields were too large, causing the flowing irrigation water to
move slowly across the land, heating it, and burning the alfalfa
plants. Farmers then formed smaller fields, known as checks, to
speed up the water flow saving the alfalfa. At first the check levees
were mounded too high, causing difficulties when haymowers and
wagons negotiated them. Soon though, alfalfa fields were properly
prepared and sound growing techniques were developed, resulting
in widespread production of this valuable crop. The West Side in
particular became known for its large alfalfa plantings. An eastern
newspaper, Farmer’s Voice, claimed in its June 22, 1906 issue that
Stanislaus County alfalfa was the finest around.
Constructing a canal in the MID
100 Years photo
harvest season. There were 1,500 acres of sweet potatoes reported
under production in 1907, which increased steadily each year. The
sandy soil of the valley plains was especially conducive to melons,
potatoes, corn, and beans.
The California-Hawaiian Sugar Refining Co. offered to
build a sugar beet processing plant locally if Stanislaus County
would commit 3,000 acres to sugar beet agriculture. Ora McHenry
offered 1,000 acres, while C.N. Whitmore and Amos Hiatt together
promised 1,000, with local businessmen collectively furnishing the
final 1,000 acres. Blight struck the first crop, because the soil lacked
sodium chloride. Some initial investment was lost, but once sodium
chloride was applied, sugar beet farming went into full production.
Eucalyptus
Even though the eucalyptus tree originated in Australia,
they were in such abundance in California and in Stanislaus County
that they were taken to be a native plant. They were originally
imported and planted to provide fast-growing, stately trees in some
of California’s treeless regions. They could be used for hardwood,
firewood, windbreaks, shade, and to strengthen dirt canal banks
with their rootlets.
Some farmers grew eucalyptus commercially for poles,
railroad ties, and firewood. A Dunkard colony near Modesto grew
trees for this purpose as did C.N. Whitmore of Ceres. By 1908, there
were many inquiries by local farmers into the eucalyptus tree
Preparing levees for irrigation
MID photo
As one can see, the county’s countryside took a dramatic
new appearance during the first decade of the 20th century. The
massive fields of wheat that once glistened golden in the hot sun
were replaced with the scent of ripening fruit, lowing of dairy cattle,
and the sight of busy farmers cultivating ground crops. Now
irrigation canals and ditches stretched across the land, delivering
miracle water to a thirsty county flatland.
Written by
LeRoy Santos
———————— 595 ————————
R o b e r t
————————
Stanislaus Historical Quarterly ————————
Irrigation and
New County Agriculture
Irrigation was introduced in Stanislaus County by the
Farmers near Ceres planted the first new orchards. In July
Turlock Irrigation District (TID) and Modesto Irrigation District 1901, one newspaper account described the area as one of “new
(MID) in the first decade of the 20th century, causing vast changes ditches, recently leveled fields and young fruit orchards.” E.P. Ackley
agriculturally. Irrigation was
of Wisconsin bought acreage near
introduced, because it was the
Ceres and planted 700 apricot and
solution to soil depletion and the
500 peach trees. Seedlings ran from
occasional droughts. As the
10¢ to 15¢ each from the nursery. It
wheat era progressed, it drained
cost an orchardist $100 to plant and
the soil of its life-giving nutrients,
maintain an acre for five years or
diminishing the enormous yields
when tree maturity was reached.
that once brought wealth to
Included in the cost was $1 a day
northern San Joaquin Valley
for a laborer, $2 for a foreman, and
ranchers. Growing wheat was an
$3 for a team and driver.
annual one-crop agricultural
County orchard acreage
program that was critically
expanded slowly during this first
dependent upon winter and
decade. In 1905 there were 220 acres
spring rainfall. Rarely was there
of apricots in the county, 1,113
Water flowing down a MID canal in the early years
uniformity in annual rainfall, with
acres of peaches, 236 acres of
Anthology photo
the periodic droughts wreaking
almonds, and 80 acres of walnuts.
havoc on wheat production.
In 1910, apricot acreage had increased to 450, peaches to 5,000,
With irrigation came the necessary moisture that eliminated almonds to 800, and walnuts to 90. The expense of establishing
financial impairment caused by droughts. It brought about orchards caused the gradual rise in acreage. New settlers needed
diversified farming that restored soil quality, providing profits from cash crops immediately to remain solvent, which caused orchards
a variety of new agricultural products. Because of irrigation, massive to be secondary projects, being planted when affordable. Quite
wheat ranches were subdivided into small farms, bringing a wave commonly ground crops were planted first and a dairy kept to receive
of new settlers to the county, who experimented with various types continuous revenue, allowing the farmer to become established.
of agriculture in the form of orchards, ground crops, and dairy
farming. Many longtime county ranchers also became actively
Calimyrna Fig
involved in the changing agricultural environment.
It must be remembered that many fruit crops were relatively
Evidence of Irrigation
untried on soil that had grown wheat extensively. Settlers
County residents were aware of the magic of irrigation,
seeing truck farming along the rivers, well-water irrigation on the
valley plains, and in the West Side, irrigation from the Miller and
Lux irrigation canal, which began in 1878. Paradise Farms, west of
Modesto, along the Tuolumne River, grew fruits, nuts, and
vegetables for years. So had the Bald Eagle Ranch, north of Modesto,
owned by Ora McHenry. They fed their crops with well-water that
provided satisfying plant growth and yields. These isolated
examples, and there were others, served as models in demonstrating
the land’s growing potential when irrigation water was available.
New Orchards
The new settlers were eager to try their hand at farming
the valley plains. Seeds and seedlings were needed. In December
1899, Reed and Richards, owners of the San Joaquin Nursery, bought
40 acres and leased another 40 acres of the Whitmore Ranch near
Ceres and planted 50,000 peach pits to sprout seedlings. From their
seedlings and from other nursery sources, orchards, vineyards,
and ground crops were planted throughout the county.
Stanislaus County fig orchard during first years of irrigation
Anthology photo
experimented with small plantings of apples, cherries, figs, lemons,
oranges, plums, prunes, quince, and other fruits. Gradually some
trees were eliminated for the more productive and profitable ones.
A county tree crop with a shaky beginning was the Calimyrna fig,
wanted for its sweetness and flavor. (Continued on page 594 )

Winter 2013 - University Library

Transcription

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